Come and discover Bar-le-Duc Conflict The 20th century

History From 1630 onwards, the At the outbreak of the First The Renaissance suffered as a result of the World War, the Battle of the Thirty Years’ War which had posed a threat for The 16th century is considered begun in 1618. Military Bar-le-Duc but the town as the Renaissance period but occupations, famines and eventually escaped in Bar-le-Duc it began in the epidemics were then part of occupation. Since the Front previous century thanks to the everyday life for the people of was very close, the town then patronage of René I of Anjou Bar-le-Duc. They also had to played an active role in and his grandson, René II. It endure the consequences of the national defence and, was a period of relative peace anti-French policies of Duke especially in 1916, and very real prosperity in Charles IV who came up concentrated on sending both political and cultural against Richelieu’s supplies to . The terms. These were the days of determination to annex the railway known as the long reigns by Antoine the The origins of the town area to . After a further “Varinot” was intensively Good (1508-1544) and period of peace and used as was the road that, Charles III (1545-1608), which In the 1st century A.D., the independence, the duchy was since the end of the war, has provided the stability that Roman road (now Rue des finally annexed in 1766, been called the “Sacred Way”. allowed for the town’s Romains) followed the becoming part of the kingdom The military cemetery close to political, economic and Valley and of France. the Marbot District is a cultural development. was set up on the right bank. reminder of this sombre past The Renaissance is defined as Towards the 6th century, the and memorials are dotted the rediscovery of Classical The 19th century settlement spread to the left around the town, in memory Antiquity in the Arts as a bank, creating a small town of this period in the town’s result of observation of With the , surrounded by walls. In history. Roman remains which were Bar-le-Duc became a “county about 951 A.D., Duke then copied by the artists of town”. Its position in the Frederick of had a the day. spotlight was further enhanced fortress built on the spur of during the industrial era, As part of the Town of artistic, The architecture was rock and it was this that led, although it had already architectural and historic rigorously structured with in the 13th century, to the boasted traditional crafts and importance scheme (Ville d’art et entablatures, cornices, friezes development of the Upper trades back in the Middle d’histoire), 35 heritage and other decorative features Town. At the end of the 14th Ages. At the end of the 19th information panels were set up in that broke up façades, century, during the reign of century, the economy the town between 2006 and contrasting sharply with the Duke Robert the expanded, based on breweries 2008. And to give you the mediaeval houses. Ornate Magnificent, the Neuveville and factories specialising in the background knowledge you will sculptures (shells, colonnettes district was built in the east use of iron, mechanical need if you are to gain greater and relief figures) were of the original settlement. It engineering or textiles. The understanding of the town, a reminders of the inspiration was laid out like a town was the birthplace of a summary of each of them is sought in Ancient Rome and checkerboard, with parallel number of innovations in included in this brochure. The Greece. streets (Rue Oudinot, Rue du those days such as the Bar-le-Duc street map will help Docteur Nève, Rue development of the Diesel you to locate the relevant Martelot). engine and the velocipede. monuments and follow the recommended tourist routes. 1 Caturiges and the town’s origins 2 Notre-Dame Church

3 Notre-Dame Bridge

4 The Michaux monument 5 Rue du Bourg 6 The Prefecture 33 7 Place de la Couronne 8 Gilles de Trèves College 9 Place de la Fontaine 35 10 The Upper Town

30 11 Rue des Ducs-de-Bar

12 Hôtel du Département 1 13 Hôtel de Salm 2 14 Eglise Saint-Étienne

15 Hôtel de Florainville

3 16 Place Saint-Pierre 17 The îlot de la Halle rue Dom Ceillier 4 28

5 6 34 25 27 7 26 32 29

8

24 18 Rue des Grangettes

20 19 Clock Tower rue F. 21

de G 20 rue du Bai 22 Castle of the Dukes of Bar B ai u 21 The fortifications 31 le ise 23 19 22 The Canal des Usines

23 Town Hall and park 9 24 Eglise Saint-Antoine

18 25 Place Reggio 26 Café des oiseaux 10 17 27 Boulevard de 11 28 Place Exelmans 16 29 Synagogue 14 30 Lycée Raymond Poincaré 15 Tribel 31 The town’s cemeteries

13 32 Château de Marbeaumont 33 Côte Sainte-Catherine District

34 12 Marbot District 35 Libération District 1 234

1 2 3 4 Caturiges Notre-Dame Notre-Dame Bridge The Michaux and the town’s Church 14th century monument origins 11th – 18th centuries As the obligatory link 18th – 19th centuries Apart from a few earlier Notre-Dame is the oldest between the Barriville Standing on the site of an traces of a Celtic church in the town; it was District and the town, old spring, a monument settlement, the reminders also its only parish church Notre-Dame Bridge, also built in 1894 by public of the community living in until the end of the known as the “Great subscription honours the Bar-le-Duc date from the 18th century. Countess Bridge”, was the only one memory of Pierre and 1st century A.D. Founded Sophie commissioned its to cross the River Ornain Ernest Michaux, the on the right bank of the building in 1088, to for many years. It was a inventors and promoters of River Ornain, Caturiges replace an earlier chapel pivot between two urban the pedal velocipede, both was no more than a dedicated to the Virgin districts and, until the of whom were born in Gallo-Roman staging post Mary. The church was 18th century, a large Bar-le-Duc. The monument (statio) on the Reims- then altered several times number of houses huddled also marks the entrance to road, in the heart of the and given a spire but it above its five freestone the town centre. territory belonging to the was struck by lightning in arches. Its chapel tribe. 1619. A new tower miraculously survived air 5 topped by a dome was raids in the Second World Rue du Bourg built in 1728. Because the War. church took more than Named after the “Burgum four centuries to build, it barri”, the district through shows a combination of which it runs, Rue du different architectural Bourg is one of the oldest styles. thoroughfares in the town and it is lined with buildings in a wide range of architectural styles. On the path that led to the castle, it has Renaissance frontages that inspired many a writer. 5 6 8 9

6 8 9 10

The Prefecture Gilles de Trèves Place de la Fontaine The Upper Town 18th – 19th centuries College 1574 The fountain played an The Upper Town grew up Located in the heart of the Commissioned by the Dean important role in everyday around the castle belonging town centre, the Prefecture of the Collegiate Church of life before the French to the Counts of Bar, later building had various St. Max to provide education Revolution. It supplied raised to the rank of Duke, functions over the centuries for the young men of the Bar drinking water for the and it contains one of the as a place of worship, area, the building was townspeople and the finest sets of Renaissance hospital, and centre of completed in 1574. The castle from 1465 onwards. houses in France. Very early political and administrative school was run by the Jesuits The Baroque construction in its history, the Princes of affairs. The official from 1617 to 1762 and their seen today dates from Bar granted significant residence of the Prefect of teachings aimed specifically 1757. It was also a privileges to this district to now serves as a at combating the ideas of the convivial, popular spot – attract a population of reminder of this rich past. Protestant Reform. tradition has it that, on aristocrats to the area The architecture is typical of feast days, pineau de Bar around the castle and keep 7 the style of the would flow from it in them there. These lay or Place 16th century, influenced by abundance. Rue de ecclesiastical noblemen l’Armurier, the street de la Couronne the art, architecture and were involved in managing leading onto the square, is The name of this square techniques of the the affairs of the Bar area one of the three old roads (literally, Crown Square) is Renaissance. Laid out and the Upper Town, also leading to the Upper thought to have come from around a courtyard lined known as “The Market”, Town. a 17th-century inn. It was with a gallery, it stands out became the political, named Place de la Liberté for its simplicity, its discreet economic, legal and during the French but tall roof and the entertainment centre of the Revolution and a weekly regularity of the openings on town. Now, the town holds market was held here. the tall, ornate façades an annual event in the Today, although it has whose main decorative conservation area, the undergone several features are hidden within RenaissanceS Festival which alterations, the “Crown the courtyard. keeps alive the tradition of Gate” still symbolically major festivities. signals the entrance to the oldest part of the town. 11 12 14

11 12 13 14 Rue Hôtel Hôtel de Salm - 1716 Eglise Saint-Étienne des Ducs-de-Bar Formerly the Collegiate du Département Closing off the end of Rue Formerly “Grande Rue” 1883-1991 Church of St. Peter des Ducs-de-Bar is the 1315-1520 Rue des Ducs-de-Bar is the Once the female teachers’ Salm residence, built in main thoroughfare training college, this 1716 over the remains of The Collegiate Church of through the upper town, impressive building was an older house erected for St. Stephen (i.e. a church leading off the “France erected in 1883 outside the Salm family. This served by a college of canons) road” from , and it is the old town, to plans by mansion is different to the was founded in 1315 by Duke a supreme example of an local architect, Micault. It other residences in the Edward I on the site of an aristocratic street. It is Classical in inspiration, district because of its older chapel. In 1782, the reflects the wealth and consisting of a long Classical architecture in St. Max chapter merged with grandeur of the Bar area building set between four which the regular spans, the chapter from St. Peter’s and the members of the pavilions to form an “H”. height and balustrade and brought its relics with it. upper class had their During the First World further highlight the Originally the church was mansions built here from War, it was turned into a ostentatious character of reserved for the town’s the 16th century onwards. military hospital; during this aristocratic house. high-ranking civil servants Grande Rue, or "High the Second World War, it but, during the French Street” became Rue des became a prison. Since Revolution, it became the Ducs-de-Bar in 1857 in 1991, the building has parish church. The initial honour of the sovereigns housed the “county” church was damaged during who played a part in its offices after being the Hundred Years’ War. It embellishment. redesignated as an admin. was restored by René I in the building by architect 15th century, in a Flamboyant Dominique Perrault. Gothic style with decorative features indicative of Renaissance influence. The church now contains ornate furnishings and several works of art including the famous Skeleton (“Le Transi”) by sculptor Ligier-Richier. 15 16 17

15 16 17 18

Hôtel de Florainville Place Saint-Pierre The îlot de la Halle Rue des Grangettes 13th – 19th centuries 16th – 18th centuries 16th-17th centuries The street follows the line Built during the In the Middle Ages, the The covered market has of the old town walls. On Renaissance period for the square was the site of been a place for chats, this side, the frontages Florainville family who fairs, markets, meetings storage and production over were built over the base of were close to the Dukes of and celebrations but it the years. Benefiting from the town walls. Bar, this mansion gradually decreased in size many privileges, the market The street name dominates Place as the surrounding houses was built during the reign of undoubtedly harks back Saint-Pierre because of the were built. The square has Count Thiébault II to the hamlet mentioned ornate decoration had its current layout (1239-1291) as a focal in the 15th century, completed in the since the Renaissance point for the town’s “Les Grangettes”. The 18th century when it period, flanked by the commerce. term refers to the barns became the town hall. covered market and In the 16th century, the (“granges”) of the Although based on the mansions that once Duke laid down building mansions at the back of same style of architecture belonged to the town’s regulations to harmonise Place Saint-Pierre which as the other buildings on nobility. The general use the architecture, which had the street was built to the square, this one has a of Savonnières stone and previously lacked any hint service. tall slate roof. Since 1949, the similar heights of the of uniformity. The covered the Florainville residence buildings give the square market found itself flanked has housed the great uniformity. A single by stone residences with magistrate’s court house built in the arcaded galleries opening followed later by the mediaeval tradition, with onto a central courtyard. Assizes. corbelling and The current appearance of half-timbered walls, the area has scarcely contrasts with the other changed since the early frontages. 19th century, after the fire that raged through the galleries and buildings on the Rue des Ducs-de-Bar side. 19 20 21 22

19 20 21 22 Clock Tower Castle The fortifications The Canal des Former castle walls of the Dukes of Bar Disconnected sections Usines - 6th century 15th – 16th centuries This section of the old The ducal town lay on the This is the oldest deviation fortifications gets its name Aware of the need to borders of France and the of the River Ornain and, from the “Great Clock” protect his land, Duke Holy . It with the Marne- installed in 1381 by Duke Frederick of Upper was a fortress and the Canal, the Canal des Robert for the people in Lorraine decided, at the capital of a province that Usines has helped to the castle. It then played a end of the 10th century, to had been independent for structure the modern significant role in town build a fortress on a spur many centuries, protected urban fabric. Crossing the life, alerting the local of rock high above the by several rings of walls in town from one side to the people to enemy attacks Ornain Valley. It was an the valley and set on a other, it originally or fires, ringing the curfew ideal spot, surrounded by promontory. Each district provided the water needed and the opening of the two ravines and extending had its own walls. There for protection and for the market, or accompanying onto a plateau but, in the were no less than four development of a number ceremonies. early days, there were no levels of protection to of trades and crafts more than a few houses keep the townspeople free (textiles, armour, and a chapel there. After of danger. breweries etc.). many alterations, extensions and reinforcements, the castle was almost totally destroyed in the 17th century. 23 24 25 26

23 24 25 26 Town Hall and park Eglise Saint-Antoine Place Reggio Café des oiseaux 19th – 20th centuries 14th century Place Reggio was First half of the 19th Built outside the town in The Augustine Convent developed late in the century 1803, the present Town was founded by Duke town’s expansion, in the Opened circa 1786-1787 Hall was built for Robert the Magnificent in 18th century, but it plays a in Rue de la Neuveville on Maréchal Nicolas-Charles the new district that he pivotal role in the heart of the spot where troops Oudinot who wanted to had recently created in the the Lower Town. Set at passing through the town own a residence worthy of east of the town. A the junction of two old would meet up, the his position as an Army number of very large urban districts, it opens theatre became famous officer in the town of his monetary gifts enabled it onto Neuveville and its when the Café des birth. It was built with a to extend and embellish its carefully-aligned streets on Oiseaux opened by courtyard on one side and church on several one side and, on the other, taxidermist Louis Poirson gardens on the other, in occasions. After the onto the town and the was annexed to it. Because accordance with the French Revolution and the monumental façade of the of its immense collection aesthetics of the time, and closure of the convent, the Prefecture. Its name and of stuffed animals, the was bought by the Town church became the parish the statue that stands on it café was described as Council in 1868 to be church of St. Anthony. both pay homage to a “undoubtedly being the used as Town Hall and to local lad who won fame most extraordinary café in give the local people a during the Napoleonic Europe”. lush green park in the Wars, Maréchal Oudinot, heart of the town. Duke of Reggio. 2728 29 31

27 28 29 30 Boulevard de la Place Exelmans Synagogue Lycée Rochelle 1858 1871-1872 Raymond Poincaré 18th – 20th centuries Laid out on the site of the The synagogue in 1856-1857 Now the town’s main former Place de l’Abattoir, Bar-le-Duc was built in Built to replace the Gilles shopping street, Boulevard the square was renamed 1871-1872 by architect de Trèves College founded de la Rochelle was after Remy-Joseph-Isidore Charles Demoget on the in the 16th century, which originally no more than a Exelmans in 1874. It was right bank of the Ornain had become too small, the dirt track linking the then renamed again and and it is representative of “imperial school” was suburb of known as Place Thiers the Moorish style that was opened on 16th October Entre-Deux-Ponts and the between 1878 and 1901 so popular for synagogues 1857. The buildings, Great Bridge. However, but it returned to its in the second half of the which could cater for when trade developed in previous name after the 19th century, especially in three hundred pupils the Lower Town at the erection of the statue by the east of France. The between the ages of 6 and end of the 18th century, it Émile Peynot paying Moorish decor can be seen 18, were laid out around a became necessary to homage to the both inside and outside central courtyard. The reorganise the flow of field-marshal who was the building. Features school has been extended traffic along this road, born in the nearby Rue include horseshoe-shaped on several occasions and which was located outside Bar-la-Ville. arches and spandrels now includes both a the mediaeval town walls. carved with garlands and junior and senior high interlacing, murals, school. stained-glass windows and a wooden ceiling. 32 33 34

31 32 33 34 The town’s Château Côte Sainte-Catherine Marbot District cemeteries de Marbeaumont District 1964 Probably founded in the 19th – 20th centuries 1903-1905 Long before the apartment days of the Ancient The civilian cemetery, Château de Marbeaumont blocks of Côte Romans at the junction of which opened in 1850 is a reminder of the Sainte-Catherine stood various roads, the Marbot beside Chemin de Popey, architecture of the early here, vines carpeted the District was referred to as and its military neighbour days of the 20th century hillside. In fact, there were a “hamlet” in 1365. It was are a reminder of the which drew inspiration vineyards here from the one of the four suburbs town’s history. The graves from the styles of Ancient 12th to the 19th centuries. around the ducal town; the that they contain make the Greece and Rome. It also The first modern buildings others were Véel, Couchot memories of the past more reflects the social and were erected in 1964, in and Entre-Deux-Ponts. It is real. Some of them are of economic standing of its response to the housing said to have got its name great artistic value and are owner, banker Paul crisis caused by the from “mar” (a pond) and covered by conservation Varin-Bernier. Yet, baby-boom after the “bot” (a hillock). orders as Historic underneath this historicist Second World War. The Monuments. eclecticism are building district was built to a new 35 techniques and materials type of plan that Libération District that were highly emphasised the need for innovative in those days. equality in the housing Located outside the old sector, as recommended by town, this district was Le Corbusier. developed after the Second World War. Its name is a reminder of the American troops who entered Bar-le-Duc by this road on 31st August 1944. A milestone on the avenue commemorates the event. Listen to the story of Bar-le-Duc, a town of artistic, architectural and historic interest …with a guide registered with the Ministry of Culture. Your guide will give you a warm welcome. He knows every nick and cranny in Bar-le-Duc and will explain the scale of a square or the way in which the town developed as you pass from one district to the next. Your guide is also an attentive listener so don’t From the window of my bedroom high on hesitate to ask questions the second floor, I could see the upper town

The Heritage Department like an amphitheatre, its steep roofs and It coordinates the initiatives taken by Bar-le-Duc, a town of church steeples sharply outlined against the artistic, architectural and historic interest. Throughout the year, it organises special events for the townspeople and school pupils. softly undulating vine-clad hillsides. Contact the department to discuss your projects.

ANDRÉ T HEURIET/Années de printemps, 1896 If you come from elsewhere in a group The Bar-le-Duc Tourist Office can arrange visits throughout the year for adult groups and young people (other than school parties). Brochures designed especially for you can be sent on request. communiquer, communiquer, LM Information: Bar-le-Duc belongs to the national network of and areas of artistic, architectural and historic interest The Department of Architecture and Heritage, part of the Musée-patrimoine (museum) tél : 03 29 76 14 67, Ministry of Culture and Communication, grants the title of Town fax 03 29 77 16 38 (or Area) of artistic, architectural and historic interest to Esplanade du Château communities that bring their heritage to life. The title guarantees 55000 Bar-le-Duc the expertise of the tourist guides and heritage leaders and the email : [email protected] quality of their work. From ancient ruins to 20th-century architecture, these towns and areas highlight their heritage in all

Service du Patrimoine, Conception graphique Office du tourisme (tourist office) its diversity. Now, a network of 130 towns and areas offers you

Imprimerie du Barrois tél : 03 29 79 11 13 the same expertise throughout France. 7, rue Jeanne d'Arc

55000 Bar-le-Duc, Nearby Impression Impression fax 03 29 79 21 95 Langres, the Guebwiller area, the Montbéliard area, email : Châlons-en-, Reims and Sedan all hold the title of [email protected] El Zocalo, Town (or Area) of artistic, architectural and historic interest. www.tourisme-barleduc.com Rédaction et recherche iconographique iconographique Rédaction et recherche Mise en page Mise en page Photos © ville de Bar-le-Duc : clichés Patrick A.Martin, Service du patrimoine ; tous droits réservés.