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Victorian Architecture in Reading: Walking Tours for the Arts Society Wokingham 3Rd April and 1St May, 2019

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Victorian Architecture in Reading: Walking Tours for the Arts Society Wokingham 3Rd April and 1St May, 2019 Victorian Architecture in Reading: walking tours for The Arts Society Wokingham 3rd April and 1st May, 2019. Part A Reading Station – original part 1865-7, by Michael Lane, Chief Engineer to the Great Western Railway. Built of white ‘stock’ Coalbrookdale bricks (more lime, less iron), widely used in Reading especially later in the 19th century. Statue of Edward VII – 1902, on roundabout at S end of Station Road, by George Edward Wade (1853-1933). Son of Soho rector; educated at Charterhouse School. Self-taught, exhibited at the RA from 1889. Early figure of Grenadier Guardsman bought by Queen Victoria. Popular in his day as achieving a good likeness, ‘much appreciated by the sitters and their families’, but style regarded by some as traditional and prosaic, lacking the originality of the leading lights of ‘new sculpture’ of the day (such as Alfred Gilbert, Auguste Rodin and later Jacob Epstein). A commentator in 1901 said “But it must surely be accounted to the credit of the sculptor that in his portrait busts and statues his gentlemen look like gentlemen, and his ladies lady-like – a virtue that cannot be claimed by some sculptors who are cleverer modellers and greater artists”. Many monumental sculptures in Britain and former British Empire. George Edward Wade working on a bust of Edward VII in his studio, c.1902 Great Western Hotel (now Malmaison)- 1844. Station Road Near middle on w side: two elevations (above street level, one above ‘Joe Coral’) by Frank Morris, c 1903 – yellow and red brick & terracotta. 1 Station Road: two buildings by Frank Morris, 1903. At end of w side, or corner with Friar Street: former Inland Revenue offices, 1902, by Edward Hoare and Montague Wheeler – early neo-Georgian. Friar Street - Post Office (now Yates’s) –neo-Georgian, 1922. Statue of Queen Victoria, for her Golden Jubilee, 1887, by George Blackall Simonds (1847-1929), of the Reading brewing family. He studied in Brussels and then, for ten years, in Rome, before returning to London where he became the first Master of the Art Workers Guild in 1884. Revived the lost-wax technique in Britain. His work can be found in such places as Central Park in New York, Trieste, London and Newcastle- upon-Tyne. His sculpture of George Palmer, carrying a top hat and umbrella, formerly in Broad Street, Reading, is now in Palmer Park. 2 Statue of George Palmer (by George Blackall Simonds, 1887), originally in Broad Street, now in Palmer Park. St Lawrence’s Church – originally the ante portas (for the town) chapel of Reading Abbey. Town Hall – 1872-6, by Alfred Waterhouse, in his favourite 13th Century Gothic style. Brick, red sandstone and terracotta. First extension 1879-82, by Thomas Lainson (of Hove), includes concert hall (with Father Willis organ), and School of Art in Valpy Street. Lainson was assessor of 1877 competition for design, and then managed to get himself appointed. Art Gallery of 1896-7 (J.J.Cooper & William Roland Howell) then filled in the remaining gap in the corner between Valpy Street and Blagrave Street. The S end of the building with its secondary tower was partly destroyed by enemy action in 1943, and restored in 1988-9. Part of the interior of the previous 18th century town hall (by Charles Poulton, 1775-6) survives as the Victoria Hall (Italianate decoration by W.H.Woodman, 1863-4). The celebrated artist and illustrator, Walter Crane, contemporary of Kate Greenaway and Randolph Caldicott, and associate of William Morris, was Director of the Art Department of University College, Reading, from 1897, before being appointed Principal of the Royal College of Art in 1898. (L) Page from ‘Aesop’s Fables’ illustrated by Walter Crane (1845-1915), who is on (R) 3 Reading Town Hall: 2nd row: (L) fireplace in Council Chamber (now Waterhouse Room) (R) ‘The Council Chamber’, 1878, by Henry James Brooks (1839-1925) 3rd row: Concert Hall 4th row: 19th Century glassware by Salviati firm of Murano, Venice (Reading Museum). 4 Valpy Street (N side, opposite side of municipal buildings) – former Berkshire Chronicle offices (late 19th C). St Lawrence’s Churchyard Gate piers, 1791. Abbey Hospitum – late 15th C – housed Reading School up to about 1872. Restored by Spencer Slingsby Stallwood in 1892 as laboratories for new Reading University Extension College. Abbey Hospitium Forbury Gardens, laid out 1855-61 by John Berry Clacy. Perimeter wall has diapered brickwork, perhaps inspired by Prison. Maiwand Lion (by George Blackall Simonds, 1884-6, cast iron), commemorating the men of the 2nd Battalion of the 66t Berkshire Regiment killed in the Afghan campaign of 1880. The lion, 31 feet long, and cast in 9 sections, may be the largest in the world. St James’s Church - by Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin, 1837-40. Glass in E apse by William Warrington, a pioneer in the rediscovery and study of medieval techniques of stained-glass manufacture. Instigated and paid for by James Wheble, leader of the newly established Catholic community in Reading. Later extensions. Presbytery and school, s of the church, 1876, by Joseph Morris & Spencer Slingsby Stallwood. 5 St James’s Church: Neo-Norman entrance, part of roof and corbels, and three William Warrington windows at E end. Abbey Gateway (inner gatehouse) – restored 1861-2 by George Gilbert Scott, after partial collapse. Carved heads 1900. Abbey Gateway: view by Paul Sandby of 1769 on (L); recent view on (R). 6 Abbey Gateway: head carved in 1900 Assize Courts (originally with courts and the county police station behind) – 1859-61, by John Berry Clacey (Surveyor of Bridges/County Surveyor 1840-71, succeeded by Joseph Morris; also Postmaster for Reading 1833-77). Cost £21,644 (original estimate £12,229). The fusion of the roles of contractor with financial supervision was criticised by John Walter (the 3rd), MP for Reading. Assize Courts Shire Hall (now Forbury Hotel), 1909-11, as headquarters for Berkshire County Council – by Herbert Austen Hall & Septimus Warwick (their other designs include Brixton Town Hall in London). English Baroque style, very much in fashion at that time. John Betjeman considered it to be ‘the most distinguished modern building [in Reading]…Wren-style…or brick and Portland stone, with elegant chimney stacks’. Shire Hall - middle: cartouche, characteristic of period; right: fireplace in committee room 7 Sutton’s Seeds – had extensive premises, now demolished, on the w side of Shire Hall, extending to Market Place. Market Place No 25 – attributed to Henry and Nathaniel Briant Corn Exchange Arcade (1854) – John Berry Clacy and F Hawkes Lloyd’s Bank – late 19th C Barclay’s Bank – 1900 (extends original part in King Street, formerly Simonds’ Bank) Nat West (formerly London & County) Bank, by Brown & Albury, 1876-7. Edward Simeon Monument, by (Sir) John Soane, 1804. (L) Market Place in 1875, with Simeon Monument; (R) Simeon Monument today. Oxfam Bookshop (former boot shop), by Jackson and W.R.Howell – ‘pretty Art Nouveau’. King Street 8 Barclay’s (formerly Simonds’) Bank, 1838-9, by Henry & Nathaniel Briant (palazzo in the style of Sir Charles Barry) – ‘tactfully magnified’ by Millar & George William Webb, 1893. Jackson’s Corner, 1880, by Brown and Albury. George Hotel (Charles Dickens stayed there. There was a priest-hole, and tunnels connected to the Abbey. Damaged by fire in 1981.) Duke Street (going south from Broad Street) Ship Hotel (1910) and Lower Ship Hotel (c.1890) – on right. High Bridge, by R.W.F.Brettingham, 1787-8. Former Police Station, by Poulton & Woodman, 1862, in Hispano-Gothic style (immediately over bridge on left). Part B 9 Minster Street Telephone Exchange, c.1903, by Leonard Stokes, one of twenty exchanges he designed in a progressive style for the National Telephone Company between 1898 and 1908. He was married to the daughter of the General Manager of the NTC, who had a house in Pangbourne where Stokes designed a number of shops and houses for D.H.Evans, the department store owner. John Lewis extension, 1979-85, consultant Sir Hugh Casson. Gun Street Nos 2-3 probably by William Ravenscroft, 1884. Pub (former ‘Cross-Keys’) on corner with Bridge Street – tile-hanging & Gothic – Brown & Albury, 1877. St Mary Butts Queen Victoria Golden Jubilee fountain, by George William Webb, 1887. Bear Hotel/Swan pub (on w side of West Street a little north of St Mary’s Minster Church) – also by George William Webb, 1889. St Mary’s (Minster) Church – the oldest in Reading, reconstructed in 1551-5, mostly from the Abbey – the rest is largely Victorian. E chapel, and restoration of the S aisle and E chapel S aisle by John Berry and W Clacy (S chapel 1863-4). N aisle of nave by Joseph Morris, 1871-2. N chapel by Sir Charles Nicholson, 1918. Reredos and choir stalls by H.S.Rogers, 1935. Painting on door at E end of N aisle, late 19th century (‘gorgeous’). Stained glass: mostly Clayton & Bell c.1865 onwards; E window of Lady Chapel, and one N aisle window, by Warrington, after 1847 Organ was bought from the 1862 International Exhibition in London. St Mary’s Church House – early Georgian; carved doorcase of 1931. 10 Chain Street – John Lewis extension on site of former Reading Dispensary (John Billing, 1847-8) Broad Street Waterstone’s – formerly Broad Street Chapel (Congregational), by Charles Smith & Son, 1892 (‘clumsy towered range’) Heelas (now John Lewis), opened 1853 (main surviving building probably by William Henry Woodman, 1870). Lloyd’s (formerly Capital & Counties) Bank, 1890 (on N side at W corner with Cross Street), with wonderful swags from brackets above doorway on corner. Former drapers shop, c 1890, with triangular bays to first floor – on S side, just before junction with Minster Street.
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