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© Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Kenya Last Minute ), which is a good port of call is a good port of ), which Let’s Go Travel BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE STAY BOOK YOUR rec- and accommodation reviews For more by Lonely Planet authors, ommendations check out the online booking service at find You’ll www.lonelyplanet.com/hotels. the best places the true, insider lowdown on thorough and independ- to stay. Reviews are online. ent. Best of all, you can book In most of the country, midrange accom- the country, midrange In most of Everything over KSh3500 (or US$80 in KSh3500 over Everything Where appropriate, accommodation op- appropriate, Where swimming pool. You should also expect to pay swimming pool. You should coastal resorts. at for midrange more Nairobi) counts as top end, and what you get for your money varies enormously. Once you TV, count on breakfast, hit US$100 you should the coast), room service (on phone, air-con and you’d usually get a private bathroom, and bathroom, and a private you’d usually get the scale shower heaters at the upper end of Surprisingly, may be on offer. and breakfast almost always bedding, towels and soap are you pay, though however much provided cleanliness varies widely and toilet seatscan luxuries. rare be and KSh3500 modation falls between KSh1000 exception to for a double room – the major you can pay anything where this is Nairobi, for the same standards.up to KSh6000 In this private you’d usually expect breakfast, bracket good-size double and bathroom, telephone you pay the more beds with proper mattresses; from restaurants facilities you get, the more to TVs,and bars and the odd hot showers website of of website and lodges hotels displays almost all the major descrip- and giving price ranges in Kenya, out tions. Also check .kenyalastminute.com the more some of bookings at for discounted particu- and hotels, camps, lodges expensive the coast. larly on and top- midrange split into budget, tions are In general, reference. for easeend categories of is anything under double room a budget You can pay as little as KSh150 KSh1000. for four walls and a bed, with foam mattress and up squat toilet; for KSh400 and shared

Volunteering 339 Volunteering Maps 332 Children 324 Children Accommodation 317 Accommodation Activities320 Money 332 333 Photography Post 334 Senior Travellers Shopping 334 Solo Travellers 336 Telephone 337 Time Toilets 337 Tourist Information with Disabilities Travellers 338 Visas 334 Women Travellers Work 339 336 337 337 338 Climate ChartsClimate 326 Courses 326 Customs Dangers & Annoyances Discount Cards Embassies & Consulates & Events Festivals 329 Food Travellers Gay & Lesbian 330 Holidays 325 326 330 Insurance Access Internet 328 Matters Legal 328 329 329 331 331 Business Hours 324

During the low seasonDuring the many companies ACCOMMODATION ACCOMMODATION ages aimed at the local and expat market. The aimed at the local and expat market. ages offer excellent deals on accommodation on excellent deals on accommodation on offer parks, the coast and in the main wildlife pack- working with airlines to create often all kinds of campsites, budget tented camps, tented budget campsites, all kinds of scattered bandas (simple huts) and cottages rural areas. around the parks and city bus-stands to luxury tented camps hid- city bus-stands to luxury tented also are den away in the national parks. There Kenya has a good range of accommodation of has a good range Kenya overlooking options, from basic cubicle hotels

CONTENTS Directory DIRECTORY ble from ApriltoJune. Onthecoast,where March, pricesonlyapplica- withlow-season is tocharge pricesfromJuly to high-season For lodges inthe national parks,thenorm into five ormore distinctpricingperiods. sons, butsomehotels candividetheiryear cipal there are lowandshoulder sea- high, dates. In prin- exactlythesame places use which canbeconfusing asveryseason, few options alsochange theirpricesaccordingto nonresident rates, stated. unless otherwise resident rates. Pricesquoted inthisbookare which are often much lessthanthenon- most placeshave rates separate forresidents, payment canbeinlocalcurrency. Note that places quote pricesinUSdollars orineuros, trappings you’d expect elsewhere. includeallthe a doublebutdon’tnecessarily of thecountry,which US$600for canexceed in nationalparksandotherremote corners places are theexclusive getaways tucked away jacuzzis andfree activities.Themostexpensive minibarsthing fromcomplimentary tocasinos, of thepricerange theextras can includeany- andintheupperrealms toiletries asstandard, 318 Although mostmidrangeAlthough andtop-end Many midrange and(especially)top-end PRACTICALITIES

Kenya usesthe Kenya metric system –distances usesthe240V Kenya system, withsquare Kenyan televisual equipmentusesthe KBC broadcastsacrossthecountryRadio are themain formerlyKTN, KBCandNTV, Major newspapers and magazines in IETR • Acmoain ••Accommodation DIRECTORY kilograms. are andmost inkilometres weights are in your phoneorrunotherappliances. a universal adaptorifyouneedtocharge Bring asusedintheUK. sockets three-pin standard European PAL videosystem. iseasilyaccessible. Service and talkbackstations,theBBCWorld towns alsohave theirownlocalmusic on variousFM frequencies. Mostmajor satellite orcable(DSTV). networks are alsowidelyavailableon national stations. CNN,SkyandBBC TV Weekly Review African Standard, includethe Kenya andthe the Daily Nation, East African, New African the the . East East The costvariesfromUS$10toUS$25per hot water provided bywood-burning stoves. basic dormsandsquattoiletstokitchens and solar-powered Facilities lights. range from and someare smallbrickbungalowswith wooden huts,someare thatched stonehuts atMalindireserves andShimoni. Someare Meru andMtElgon,nearthemarine (KWS) bandasatShimba Hills,Tsavo West, travellers. There are Kenya Wildlife Service room, which offer excellent valueforbudget usually withsomekindof kitchen andbath- areThese Kenyan-style huts andcottages, Bandas guidelines. two these other variationsshould fallbetween lowest pricesavailable –any outof season refersmium rates), and‘lowseason’ tothe quoted forthelongest peakperiod(notpre- negotiation on rates. maybeopentosome empty inlowseason Conversely, hotels thataretariffs. near can beasmuch asdoublethehigh-season over Christmas,NewYear and andEaster, premium rates orsupplementsalwaysapply for therest of the year. March, andarange of lowerrates canapply tend tobeJulyAugustandDecember things are much more peaktimes seasonal, be hired inNairobi and aroundMtKenya. ing atent gear can also with you,though in Kenya, anditis worth considering bring- There are manyopportunitiesfor camping Camping ally fromMay tomid-June or July. intheearlysummer, gener-places willclose end places.Note thatthemajority of these the smallfamilyresorts toUS$500attop- rates varyfromUS$45perpersonNightly at of themhave very been sensitively designed. want goodchildren’s facilities,andahandful They aren’tevening. allbad,especiallyifyou on thebeach and‘tribal’danceshowsinthe bars, restaurants, mobs of souvenir vendors ence, withswimmingpools,water sports, resorts. Mostoffer afairlysimilarexperi- Malindi, istaken upbyhuge luxurybeach Much of thecoast,from to Diani Beach Beach Resorts food, drinkingwater, bedding and firewood. person, tobringallyourown andyou’llneed Note that however high season isdefined, season Note high thathowever In this book, ‘high season’ refers season’ In thisbook,‘high torates lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 319 -roofed bars (with a thatched roof roof (with a thatched bars -roofed makuti Terms you will come across in Kenya in- Kenya you will come across in Terms often some kind of external roof thatch to thatch roof external of some kind often moderately a few are the rain out. There keep East National Park, priced options in Tsavo upscale and very the camps are but most of rooms under hotel much pretty are the tents and you’ll pay much more if you just turn up more and you’ll pay much the older places and ask for a room. Some of glorious past, but on their more trade heavily rooms, soar- five-star the best places feature ing if only is recommended, one good safari lodge to see Rates to how the other half lives! tend low season. come down a lot in the Tented Camps many parks contain some well as lodges, As camps. These places tented fantastic luxury settings, remote to occupy wonderfully tend or other natural locations, usually by rivers comfortable, semiperma- large, and feature bath- with beds, furniture, nent safari tents and rooms (usually with hot running water) Renting a private houseprivate is a popular op- Renting a for groups on tion on the coast, particularly stays, expats let out their and many longer not using them. holiday homes when they’re Swahili houses from restored Properties range to luxurious colonial on the northern islands seldom while they’re mansions inland, and be something the experience will often cheap, and noticeboards in special. Papers pretty good places are Nairobi and along the coast and as is the internet rentals, to find out about mouth. of word old-fashioned Safari Lodges national of Hidden away inside or on the edges Theselodges. fantastic safari some parks are safaris, organised as part of usually visited are overlooking and restaurants palm leaves) of Staying in at least wildlife. full of waterholes fancier places offer modern kitchens, but but kitchens, modern places offer fancier kitchen- the so-called than not often more fridge room with a small will be a side ettes gas stove. and portable clude ‘self-contained’, a just means which and bathroom, its own private room with in this book), (called ‘full board’ ‘all-inclusive’ certain means all meals, generally which activities should drinks and possibly some means one board’ generally be included. ‘Half included. or two meals are Rental Houses DIRECTORY •• Accommodation which are often only restaurants) are are only restaurants) often are which

Self-catering common on the options are

Proper hotels and guest houseshotels come in Proper All campsite prices in this book are per per book are prices in this All campsite Private sites are rare, but they offer more more but they offer rare, are sites Private As well as these permanent campsites, as these well campsites, permanent As much in other parts of the country. A few the country. A few in other parts of much coast, where they’re often the only midpriced often they’re coast, where but not so to the top-end resorts, alternative in particular towns or regions, and also plenty in particular towns or regions, family-run establishments. private of many different shapes and sizes. As well as and sizes. As shapes many different a are companies, there the top-end Western reli- offering chains small Kenyan number of properties able standards across a handful of exactly comfortable. ally nonexistent, though the better ones are though ones are ally nonexistent, the better clean if not setand are around courtyards, widely used as brothels, and tend to be very widely used to be very and tend as brothels, rundown. Security at these places is virtu- ‘board and lodgings’ to distinguish them from ‘board and lodgings’ to distinguish hotelis, Hotels & Guest Houses Hotels & Guest Houses as known (often Real bottom-end hotels extremely extremely variable. tels’ are not members of HI, and standards are HI, and standards are of not members are tels’ It has good basic facilities and is a pleasant plenty of are there enough place to stay, but just as good. that are choices other cheaper ‘youth hos- Other places that call themselves The only youth hostel affiliated with affiliated with hostel The only youth (HI) is in Nairobi. International Hostelling person unless otherwise specified. unless otherwiseperson Hostels trip or a guide, security is a major concern – trip or a guide, security is a major the coast. it on don’t even think about towns, and Nairobi has some good private some good private towns, and Nairobi has Campingcampsites. in the bush is possible an organised doing it with but unless you’re have your own. It’s sometimes possible to possible to your own. It’s sometimes have in rural some hotels camp in the grounds of facilities and may hire out tents if you don’t tents out facilities and may hire reservation fee of KSh7500 per weekreservation is pay- KSh7500 of fee camping fee. the relevant able on top of the standard camps, but cost more because the standard but cost more camps, locations and set-up their wilder costs. A of in most national parks. These sites move parks. Thesein most national move sites than facilities even fewer everyhave year and KWS also runs so-called ‘special’ campsites so-called ‘special’ campsites KWS also runs usually very basic. There’ll be a toilet block be a toilet basic. There’ll usually very a toilets, and usually pit of with a couple little else. tap, very water but There are KWS campsites in just about every just about in campsites KWS are There reserve, park or national though these are lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY Sarova Mara Lodgein Sarova Mara the Mara. .transworldsafaris.com/ballooning.php) Basedatthe Governors’ Campin the Mara. .governorscamp.com) Thiscompanyoperatesout ofLittle cycling and mountain-biking trips inKenya. An increasing number of companies offer Cycling Transworld BalloonSafaris BalloonSafaris Governors’ US$500. Checkoutthe following companies: rently available intheMasai Mara for around and returned toyourlodge. are Flights cur- taken onawildlife drive inasupportvehicle for achampagne breakfast. Youwillthenbe for about1½hours, after which youputdown up yourshillings totake oneof trips. these incomparable, andit’sdefinitely worthsaving with a360°viewof beneathyouis everything perience of floatingsilentlyabove theplains of ex- theanimals.Thealmostghostly course, lutely thesavanna and, superbwayof seeing tripsinthewildlifeBalloon parksare anabso- Ballooning organised tripsandactivities, see p65 . from balloonstogliders. Formore ideason world of water sportsandaerialadventures more adventurous activitiesincludeawhole ment andcanbearranged very easilylocally; pursuits, astheyrequire noexpensive equip- and snorkelling are amongthemostpopular fromdusktilldawn.Trekkingon yourtoes of distractionsand diversions tokeep you foryou,Kenyaenough has anamazingrange busisn’tactiveIf bombingaroundinasafari on charter planes. locations soisolated thatguestsflyinandout canvas. Thereally exclusive propertiesoccupy 320 ACTIVITIES The flights typically set off atdawnandgo off typicallyset The flights in Kenya, so it can’t hurt to take afew totake precautions. extra soitcan’thurt in Kenya, happen inlarge townsandcities. Sadly,theftisperhapsthenumberonecomplaintoftravellers ables onyourpersonandcarryingthematalltimes. course,usediscretion Of asmuggings do accommodation isabitrougharoundtheedges,youmaywanttoconsiderhidingyourvalu- them. It’susuallybestnottocarryanyvaluablesonthestreet, butintimeswhenyourbudget safes where yourmoney youcankeep advantage of soit’sadvisedthatyoutake and passport, bag. documentslyingaroundyourroomorinanunlocked hotels Upmarket willhaveimportant deterrent.or suitcaseasanextra Furthermore, don’tinvite troublebyleavingvaluables,cashor Although hotels give itisrecommended youroomkeys, thatyoucarryapadlockforyourbackpack HOTEL SECURITY IETR • Atvte ••Activities DIRECTORY ( ( % % 020-2734000; www 020-2713333; www % the islandsof Manda Toto and Kiwayu. Archipelago ( p302 ) alsohassome finereefs, off and Malindi (see p252 with forfurtherdetails), spread Shimoni outalongthecoastbetween There isastringof marinenationalparks Diving &Snorkelling tion oncycling in Kenya. KSh500 perday.See p348 formore informa- Gate National Park. Hire isusuallyaround andHell’sas ArabukoSokoke Forest Reserve hire, placessuch allowingyoutocyclethrough around thecountrycanarrange cheap bicycle around US$120 per day. .biketreks.co.ke) best operatoris andKerio Highlands Central Valley. The Masai Mara, Hell’s Gate NationalPark, Popular locationsincludetheedge of the a number of fishing c The ing twodives gofor around US$100. and US$500.Tripsforcertifieddivers includ- US$350 certification course willcostbetween theyaren’tstandards, cheap –afive-day PADI open-water divingcourse. Byinternational hotel andresort onthecoast can arrange an byheavycaused siltflowfromsomerivers. impossible todive duetothepoorvisibility but duringJune,JulyandAugustit’soften Kenya. OctobertoMarch isthebesttime, and Watamu ( p279 ), onthesouthcoast,andatMalindi ( p296 ) –atWasiniIsland further awayfromMombasa scuba-diving. Thebetter marineparksare those plenty of opportunitiesfor snorkelling and Fishing There are for distinctseasons diving in Many localcompaniesandplacestostay If youaren’t certifiedtodive, almost every 020-3742320; Museum Hill Rd,Nairobi) Hill 020-3742320; Museum Kenya Fisheries Department Fisheries Kenya , which offers tripsfor specialised

( p290 ), tothenorth.TheLamu Bike Treks Bike amps in various

( % lonelyplanet.com 020-4446371; www

Mp pp100-1; (Map , operates parts DIRECTORY

020- 321

% ( 0733760331; , near Nyeri % Aero Club of East Africa

(off Map p203 ; p203 (off Map Ninety-Nines Flying Club and , both at Wilson Airport ( p341 ). p341 Airport ( , both at Wilson Gliding Club of Kenya 020-608990) % Australasia. ContactAustralasia. the ( 500277) Sailing sailing Kilifi, Mtwapa and Mombasa all have clubs can also clubs, and smaller freshwater Gliding & Flying Gliding & Flying The [email protected]; PO Box 926, Nyeri) Flying lessons in the Central silent glides Highlands, offers ). p201 ( the Aberdares over much and are in Nairobi arranged easily are affordable than in Europe, the USA and more DIRECTORY •• Activities petent, professionally trained dive instructor or dive master. instructor or dive trained dive professionally petent, differences These conditions. and dive any site Seasonal changes can significantly alter other. they use. and what diving techniques for a dive dress influence the way divers from a reputable local dive operation). local dive from a reputable diving). particular are a serious threat to marine life. particular a serious threat are (mainly shipwrecks). scending too fast and colliding with the reef. scending too fast and colliding turns high and dry. Take organisms leave the roof and thereby bubbles may be caught within of a small cave. to inspect interior the damage delicate organisms. Take care not to kick care of sand, which can smother up clouds Take organisms. damage delicate organisms. reef. Polyps can be damaged by even the gentlest contact. If you must hold on to the reef, contact. the gentlest hold on to the reef, If you must can be damaged by even Polyps reef. rock or dead coral. only touch exposed of experience; if available, engage the services within your realm of a com- only at sites Dive to an- site, or even conditions vary significantly from one region, that underwater Be aware (eg site information about physical and environmental conditions at the dive Obtain reliable and the environment. about marine life and etiquette of local laws, regulations Be aware diving certification instructional agency (if scuba- Possess a current card from a recognised you may find as well. Plastics in that you take home all your rubbish and any litter Ensure fish. Do not feed ride on the backs of turtles. Never your disturbance of marine animals. Minimize sites to collect to loot marine archaeological or buy coral or shells or Resist the temptation de- Practise divers buoyancy control. Major damage can be done by and maintain proper as possible as your air Spend as little time within them caves. in underwater care great Take can strokes from fin near the reef without contact, the surge Even fins. Be conscious of your coral. not to ground boats on and take care anchors on the reef, use Never the equipment across or dragging marine organisms or standing on living touching Avoid

snorkelling trip, consider the following points embarkingBefore on a scuba-diving, skin-diving or and enjoyable experience: a safe to ensure

RESPONSIBLE & SAFE DIVING DIVING & SAFE RESPONSIBLE of the ecology and beauty and help preserve diving the following tips when Please consider reefs: For freshwater fishing, there are huge Nile huge are fishing, there For freshwater The deep-sea fishing on the coast is some and Turkana, and some of the trout fish- and Turkana, and some of is and Mt Kenya ing around the Aberdares quite exceptional. The season runs from August to April. The season August runs from in Lakes Victoria as big as a person perch range fishing trips. Boats cost from US$250 to range anglers. US$500 and can usually fit four or five companies and resorts in Shimoni, Diani Diani in Shimoni, companies and resorts Beach, can ar- Mtwapa, Watamu and Malindi of the best in the world and various private the best in the world and various private of of the country, and also issues mandatory the country, and also issues mandatory of fishing licences. lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY ( p198) the Ugandan border,the ing territory includes promising andrelatively unexplored walk- ( p208 ) istheobviouschoice, butother For propermountain trekking Trekking &Climbing isanunforgettable Lamu experience. sailing not hands-on,atraditionaldhowtripoutof tobecomeatemporaryneed member. While up somecrewing attheyacht clubs;you’ll Ifyou’resailing. experienced,youmaypick which bothhave excellentwindsurfingand Victoria, NaivashaandLake be foundatLake 322 Erosion Washing Human Waste Disposal Rubbish Help preserve the thefollowingtips: byobserving ecology andbeautyofKenya RESPONSIBLE TREKKING&CLIMBING

Hillsides andmountainslopes, especially athighaltitudes,are Hillsides pronetoerosion.Stick toexist- utensils 50mfromwatercourses Washcooking usingascourer, sandorsnowinstead ofdeter- Forpersonal washing,usebiodegradablesoapandawater container(oreven alightweight, Don’tusedetergents ortoothpaste inornearwatercourses, even iftheyare biodegradable. Ensure toilettent thattheseguidelinesare ifoneisbeingusedbya appliedtoaportable Contaminationofwater sourcesbyhuman faecescanleadtothetransmissionofallsorts tampons,condomsandtoiletpaper shouldbecarriedoutdespite the Sanitarynapkins, andnomore minimalpackaging waste foodthanyouwillneed.Take Minimise bytaking Never buryrubbish:digging disturbssoilandgroundcover andencourageserosion.Buried Carry outallyourrubbish.Don’toverlook easilyforgotten items, such assilver paper,orange IETR • Atvte ••Activities DIRECTORY ing tracks and avoid short cuts. ing tracks andavoidshort gent. allow thesoiltofilter itfully. basin) atleast50mawayfromthewatercourse.portable Dispersethewaste water widelyto memberstousethesite. Encourageallparty large party. trekking Insnow,digdowntothesoil. a rock. small hole15cmdeepandatleast100mfromanywatercourse. Cover thewaste withsoiland of nasties. Where there isatoilet,pleaseuseit.Where there isnone, buryyourwaste. Diga inconvenience. They burnanddecomposepoorly. reusable containersorstuffsacks. yearstodecompose.take bedugupbyanimals,whichmayinjuredrubbish willlikely orpoisonedbyit.Itmayalso tocarryoutrubbishleftbyothers.rubbish bag. aneffort Make peel, cigarette buttsandplasticwrappers. shouldbestored Emptypackaging inadedicated

and Kerio Valley Kerio ( p193 ) eastof Kitale, MtElgon Cherangani Hills 15) on (p195) Mt Kenya

Kenya and rock climbingatsites around options like caving. the country,aswellsomemore unusual Nairobi) Centre, POBox1000,Westlands, Sarit .whitewaterkenya.com; Nairobi (formore details, see p98 ). Club ofKenya Africa. of acopyof LonelyPlanet’s the relevant chapters inthisbookorget hold the and ( p204), ( p244 ), theupperreaches of the the Savage WildernessSafaris For more trekking informationrefer to Matthews Range Matthews offers tripsto Mt mountaineering Also besure the tocontact

(MCK; Ngong Hills % 27) the (p237), 020-602330; www.mck.or.ke)

( (p114). % lonelyplanet.com Trekking inEast 020-521590; www LoroghiHills Aberdares Aberdares Mountain in

DIRECTORY 323 , run Savage Wilderness 020-521590; www.whitewaterkenya % ; (Map p108 (Map

The people to talk to are The people to talk are to by the charismatic Mark Savage. Depending Depending Savage. Mark by the charismatic south of Mombasa, is the best place to go if Mombasa, to go if best place is the of south these activities. (or all) of to try any you want Rafting White-Water has substantial rapids, River The Athi/Galana also pos- are and there and waterfalls chutes and Ewaso Ngiro River the Tana sibilities on exciting times The most Isiolo. near River late from rafting trip are white-water for a and from early April October to mid-January highest. are levels July, when water to late Safaris .com; Sarit Westlands, Nairobi) PO Box 1000, Centre, DIRECTORY •• Activities

reach and tie packs to rafters or trees. and tie packs to rafters reach unbalanced populations and to disease. native animals. native water. water or cook food. water ensure that all members are outfitted with enough clothing so that fires are not a necessity not a necessity are with enough clothing so that fires outfitted that all members are ensure for warmth. areas can cause rapid deforestation. Cook on a lightweight kerosene, alcohol or shellite (white (white Cook on a lightweight kerosene, alcohol or shellite can cause rapid deforestation. areas by disposable butane gas canisters. and avoid those powered gas) stove the size of the patch. the size a fire, use an existing fireplace. Don’t surround fires with rocks. Use only dead, fallen Use only dead, fallen with rocks. fires Don’t surround use an existing fireplace. a fire, wood for the In huts, leave cooking. wood. Use minimal wood – just what you need for next person. If you light visitors. few very that get in areas may be acceptable below the treeline Fires Always seek permission to camp from landowners, prior to accessing the property. scraps behind you. Place gear out of by not leaving food of wildlife Discourage the presence as this can lead to animals becoming dependent on handouts, to the wildlife Do not feed It is illegal in all parks and reserves. Do not engage in or encourage hunting. species. made from endangered Don’t buy items likely to be protected In wild places, they are animals in huts. to exterminate Don’t attempt the embers and flood them with Spread use. after that you fully extinguish a fire Ensure to heat If you patronise local accommodation, select those places that do not use wood fires In alpine areas, whole team. for the trekking with a guide and porters, supply stoves If you are that keeps topsoils in place. the plant life removing Avoid in popular trekking cutting of wood for fires The for cooking. Don’t depend on open fires so as not to increase passes through a mud patch, walk through the mud If a well-used track

Camping on Private Property Property on Private Camping Conservation Wildlife Cooking & Low-Impact Fires Some of the larger resorts have water-sports water-sports have resorts the larger Some of Water Water Sports surfing. Kitesurfing is the latest craze to catch craze to catch latest is the Kitesurfing surfing. ), p274 Diani Beachon, with tuition available. ( out absolutely everything jet skis and ba- from out absolutely and traditional nana boats to bodyboarding centres giving visitors the opportunity to try the opportunity giving visitors centres Lamu and Manda Islands ( p311 ) is one of the ) is one of p311 Islands ( Lamu and Manda the coast. windsurf on best places to hotels south and north of Mombasa have sail- Mombasa have north of south and hotels between channel The sheltered boards for hire. windsurfing – the country’s offshore reefs reefs offshore windsurfing – the country’s usually and the winds are the waters, protect strong and constant. Most resort reasonably Conditions on Kenya’s coast are ideal for for ideal are coast on Kenya’s Conditions lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY and those serving breakfast and/oralcohol are serving and those 9pm, respectively. International restaurants hours are 11amto2pmand5pm roughly lunchbetween anddinner. Lunch anddinner 11am to10pmdaily,sometimeswithabreak expensive ethnicrestaurants willbeopenfrom whilemore intheearlyevening, 7am andclose Kenyan canteens willopen at around6amor of –asarulecafes establishment andcheap open on Sunday. hours andistheonlybankincountryto Kenyatta International Airport isopen24 atNairobi’s Jomo Bank Saturday. Barclays Monday toFridayand9am1pmon reaus are typicallyopenfrom9amto6pm Monday toSaturday.Foreign exchange bu- openuntil4.30pmor5pmbanks maystay month. Intouristresorts andlarger cities open onthefirst andlastSaturdayof the Saturday; somesmallerbranches mayonly Monday toFridayandfrom9am11am Sunday. on keep longer hours evening andmay open to 8pmSunday.Internet cafes generally to 8.30pmMondaySaturdayand10am the bigsupermarkets are openfrom8.30am Saturday; inNairobi andotherlarge cities Monday toFridayand9amnoonon from8.30amto5pm open roughly services shopsandfrom 2pmto5pm.Postoffices, to Fridayfrom8amor8.30am1pmand Most government are offices openMonday BUSINESS HOURS cover up to 80km. mosttripslastonetofourdaysand although and three durationcanbearranged, weeks’ on water rafting tripsof levels, upto450km 324 Restaurant hoursRestaurant varyaccordingtothetype hoursBanking are from9amto3pm sive cigarette of your life. lighting upasitcould bethemostexpen- stock ofyoursurroundingsbeforeto take fines withouta second thought.Besure vigilant inNairobi,andwillhandout large country, note thatpoliceare particularly areas. While enforcementvariesacrossthe allowed inrestaurants, barsandpublic in2008, Control Act isnolonger smoking Following thepassageofTobacco THANK YOUFORNOT SMOKING IETR • Bsns or ••BusinessHours DIRECTORY only top-endplacesthatcater specificallyfor it’susually tion should though beacceptable, hygiene reasons. Mostmidrange accommoda- Budget hotels are probably bestavoided for Practicalities Children LonelyPlanet’s family abroad,see families of their own. especiallybywomenwith male preserve, comed anywhere that’snotanexclusively usual sighs, butkidswillgenerally bewel- elicitallthe (minibuses) babies onmatatus Kenya justastheydointheWest:screaming trip. the take comfortover adventure forthecore of if you’re prepared tospenda littlemore and ous fortravel with children. Butitispossible Many parents regard Africaasjusttoodanger- broad from these guidelines. opening hours where significantly theydiffer later at weekends. around 9pmandcankeep goinguntil6amor until late, opentheirdoors whilenightclubs foodare openfromaround6pm don’t serve usually openfrom8amuntil11pm.Bars that yug children. young of levels for high DEETmaybeunsuitable the bestadvice. Mosquito repellents with toyourdoctorget –talk tropical diseases tochildrento considertherisks posed by and campfires. It’sparticularlyimportant dangerousards such wildlife asmosquitoes, to least eight be admitted. for children –typicallytheymustbeaged at exclusive aminimum age lodges limit impose warnedthatsome with connectingdoors. Be and someplacesalsohave adjoiningrooms especially attheupperendof thepricescale, price. familyrooms are Large often available, you’ll alsoget acotbedthrowninforthis are usually charged 50%of theadultrate – and 12years whoshare theirparents’ room under twoyears of age. Children two between into vised the bush. your kidsaren’t abletowanderoffunsuper- tobeextracarefulones, butyou’llneed that canbeexcitingforthelittle families. Camping CHILDREN For invaluablegeneral the adviceontaking Local attitudestowardschildren varyin In thisbookwehave onlygiven specific If camping,bealertforpotential haz- Most hotels willnotcharge forchildren by Lanigan. Cathy lonelyplanet.com Travel with DIRECTORY 325 In the semiarid bushlands of northern and northern and In the semiarid of bushlands has region humid coast The consistently The hot, rainy plateau of western Kenya Kenya western of plateau rainy The hot, and Central Rift Valley The temperate In Nairobi, the LangataIn Nairobi, Giraffe Centre northeast from October to April and from northeast from October The the year. of the southwest for the rest annual rainfall is between 1000mm average Average and 1250mm (less in drought years). the year, rang- vary little during temperatures to 30°C. ing from 22°C to the end of November (the ‘short rains’). (the ‘short rains’). November to the end of the Range are and the Aberdare Mt Kenya with catchments, country’s main water up to 3000mm per year recorded falls of these places. in vary from highs temperatures Kenya eastern up to 40°C during the day to less than of 20°C at night. Rainfall is sparse in this area in the form and, when it does occur, is often violent storms. July is usually the driest of The av- the wettest. month, and November between annual rainfall varies 250mm erage and 500mm. to from 20mm in February rainfall averages Rainfallaround 300mm in May. is depend- blows from the ent on the monsoon, which has rainfall throughout the year, the heavi- has rainfall throughout when as much est usually during April, and the low- as 200mm may be recorded, 40mm. of with an average est in January, from a minimum of range Temperatures to 36°C 30°C of 14°C to 18°C to a maximum the year. throughout tem- in the country. Average able climate 10°C of vary from a minimum peratures to 28°C. 22°C to 14°C to a maximum of Rainfall 20mm varies from a minimum of in July to 200mm in April, falling in es- begin- to the sentially two seasons – March June (the ‘long rains’) and October ning of Lake Nakuru ( p162 ), where there’s plenty to there’s ), where p162 Lake( Nakuru relatively see are and the distances involved you choose accommodation of short. The kind tolerance levels and on the age, will depend your offspring. curiosity of Railway) and p103 ), National Museum ( p112 ( for children. all good ) are p107 Museum ( CLIMATE CHARTS means that tem- geography diverse Kenya’s vary widely, rainfall and humidity perature, zones. distinct four effectively are but there Highlands have perhaps the most agree- Highlands have ( p113 ), David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Trust Wildlife Sheldrick ), David p113 ( ) in c DIRECTORY •• Climate Charts

Many parents swear by Lamu ( p302 ) as a p302 swear by Lamu parents ( Many Canned baby foods, powdered milk, dis- milk, Canned baby foods, powdered

If you want to go on a full-scale safari, bear Short boat trips can be great for slightly great boat trips can be Short Travelling between towns in Kenya is is between in Kenya towns Travelling Street food is also likely to be risky, as is risky, as is to be likely food is also Street National Park ( p109 ), Amboseli ( p137 ) or ) or p137 ), Amboseli ( p109 ( National Park smaller, more open parks such as Nairobi as Nairobi open parks such smaller, more in mind that a four-hour wildlife drive with drive wildlife in mind that a four-hour for an uncom- can be an eternity strangers the It’s best to choose of one fortable child. young animal-lovers. of an exotic culture as soon as you step off as soon as you step culture an exotic of donkeys population of The large the ferry. for cuteness a hefty dose of also provides good family destination – it’s small and safe good family destination – it’s small and safe a taste but has plenty to see and provides but wild enough to be exciting. but wild enough to Elephant Sanctuary ( p271 ) should capture capture ) should p271 Elephant Sanctuary ( is accessible imagination, and most children’s so you can go on safari without having to to so you can go on safari without having Mwaluganje there. get for too long to drive ( p273 ) or Malindi ( p296 ) there are also several are ) there p296 ( ) or Malindi p273 ( national parks or reserves within easy reach, older children. If you stay in Diani Beach older children. We’ve used the child-friendly icon ( used the child-friendly We’ve with dedicated hotels this book to indicate children’s facilities. and even kids clubs to take the little dar- and even kids clubs to take your hands if you needlings off a break. ally all the resort hotels have pools, private pools, private have hotels ally all the resort playgrounds, games, entertainment beaches, The coast is the obvious place to go for The coast is the obvious place to go for as virtu- children, with anyone travelling Sights & Activities Sights & Activities gether with child-friendly insect repellent insect repellent with child-friendly gether in Kenya). (this can’t be bought posable nappies and the like are available in available are posable nappies and the like expensive. but are supermarkets, most large from home, to- as possible Bring as much on safari. mon – a child seatmon – a child brought from home is a car or going hiring a good idea if you’re have them on your lap. Functional seatbelts them on your lap. have com- even in taxis and accidents are rare are is one problem, and young children tend to tend and young children is one problem, be seen as wriggling so you’ll often luggage, not always easy with children. Car sickness easy with children. not always and snakes. Hookworm and bilharzia are and bilharzia are Hookworm and snakes. also risks. around barefoot is usually fine on the beach beach is usually fine on the around barefoot sea but may be risky in of urchins!), (beware bees, thorns, the bush because scorpions of unwashed fruit. Letting your children run run Letting fruit. unwashed your children lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY .go.ke) a language alsoentitles (oranycourse) course school.the country’smost established Taking The AnglicanChurch of Kenya (ACK) runs Kenya, learning Kiswahili isan excellent idea. If youintend tospendconsiderable timein COURSES visit the 326 NANYUKI NAIROBI MOMBASA KISUMU °C °F °C °F °C °F °C °F 10 40 10 40 10 40 10 40 30 30 30 30 20 20 20 20 For thelatest localweatherforecasts online, 0 0 0 0 FMAMJ A S N D O A J FM J A M J S N D O A J FM J A M J S N D O A J FM J A M J FMAMJ A S N D O A J FM J A M J . See . See also p13 . IETR • Cuss ••Courses DIRECTORY Temp Temp Temp Temp Kenya Meteorological Office Meteorological Kenya 1140m (3740ft) 1820m (5971ft) 1945m (6381ft) 16m (52ft) in in in in 104 104 104 104 32 32 32 32 68 86 68 86 68 86 68 86 50 50 50 50 J F M A M J J A S O N D J F M A M J J A S O N D J F M A M J J A S O N D J F M A M J J A S O N D Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall 12 16 12 16 12 16 12 16 4 8 4 8 4 8 4 8 0 0 0 0

(www.meteo Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Average Average Average Average mm mm mm mm hourly lessonstodaily group courses. ofstudyoptionsrangingfromprivate avariety offering off NgongRd,POBox40661,Nairobi)Anothergoodcentre www.language-cntr.com/welcome.shtml; NdemiClose, which isavailableona schedule. part-time tuition, up tofivehoursaday.More flexibleisprivate Full-time last14weeksandtake coursesofvaryinglevels POBox47429,Nairobi) school.htm; BishopsRd,UpperHill, % There are wildlife strictlawsabout taking CUSTOMS Ltd Language Center School Language&Orientation ACK the lengthandextent of study): schools (note thatpricesvarydependingon passport. Checkoutthefollowinglanguage with twophotographs andacopyof your language school) isusuallyrequired along approved bodyregistered inKenya (your of KSh5000 oraletter of guarantee byan of KSh3000 foraone-yearpass.Adeposit the paperwork,soexpecttopayaminimum byyourschool forsortingout will belevied inKenyadent status during your stay. worth it,especiallyasyouwillthenhave resi- the processmaytake months, butitcanbe You mayhave tobattlewithbureaucracy and ofallowing continuousstays upto12months. you toa‘Pupil’sPass’, animmigrationpermit A little street sense goes alongwayhere, goes and A littlestreet sense tomore irritations threats.everyday serious the unwaryorinexperienced traveller, from destination, there are stillplentyof pitfallsfor While Kenya isacomparatively safe African DANGERS &ANNOYANCES out of the country. which mayextend tosome lads’ magazines. oculars. Obscenepublicationsare banned, such ascameras,laptopcomputers andbin- 250mL of perfumeandotherpersonal items rettes, 250gof pipetobacco, 1Lof alcohol, bring intothecountry–50cigars, 200ciga- export of anyplants,insects and shells. what permitsare required, especiallyforthe a certifiedostrich farm.Alwayscheck tosee unless youcanprove themfrom youbought allowed. Ostrich willalsobeconfiscated eggs prohibited. Thecollection of coralisalsonot made from turtleareelephant, rhinoandsea products outof Kenya. Theexportof products The fee foraPupil’sPass varies.Acharge You are allowedtotake uptoKSh100,000 Usual regulations applytoitems youcan 020-2721893; www.ackenya.org/ack_language_ 0 100 200 300 400 0 100 200 300 400 0 100 200 300 400 0 100 200 300 400 (Map (Map p109 ; % lonelyplanet.com 020-3870610; (Map (Map pp100-1 ; DIRECTORY 327 Although crime is a fact of life in Kenya, it in Kenya, life Although fact of crime is a Luggage is an obvious signal to criminals Luggage More ingenious tricks include tucking ingenious More In the event of a crime, you should report it report a crime, you should In the event of While pickpocketing and bag-snatching and bag-snatching pickpocketing While you, they’ll almost always be safer locked away locked you, they’ll almost always be safer obvious the Don’t overlook safe. in your hotel room money lying around your hotel and leave on with thein plain view. However well you get a free to resist staff, will be some unlikely there to feed. got a family if they’ve month’s wages you meet will far outnumber any crooks who your path. cross Money in Nairobi, you life crime a way of With street money. with your should be doubly careful all your valuables policy is to leave The safest just carry enough cash and safe in the hotel for that day. If you do need to carry larger sums around, a money belt worn under your option to guard against clothes is the safest that muggers thefts. However, be aware snatch expecting this. will usually be elasticised on bandage money into a length of a hidden pocket your arm or leg, or creating If you don’t actually needinside your trousers. or cash with cheques card, travellers your credit the bus station to your hotel. You’ll have the bus station You’ll have hotel. to your safely once you’ve to explore time plenty of this Also, don’t read stowed your belongings. – it on the street guidebook or look at maps attention. unwanted attracts procedure. be a real to the police, but this can if you intend a police report You’ll need to get a an insurance claim. In the event of to make yelling ‘Thief!’ theft, think twice before snatch It’s not unknown for people to administer fatal with summary justice on the spot, often the criminal. for results don’t make all, needn’t spoil your trip. Above just distrusting every Kenyan of the mistake honest souls bad apples – the a few because of are the most common crimes, armed mug- crimes, armed common the most are and on the coast. in Nairobi gings do occur However,usually occur at night they or in taxis dark take so always after areas, remote snatch- dirt roads. Conversely, or along lonely If in crowds. happen more and-run crimes people too many are there feel you suddenly being followed, or think you are around you, for help. straight into a shop and ask dive any- When arriving just arrived. that you’ve by bus, it’s sensible a ‘ship-to- to take where from a taxi directly getting approach, shore’ shif- DIRECTORYDangers & Annoyances ••

(bandits) too, of course, but cross-border course, but cross-border (bandits) too, of Despite all the headlines, tourists are rarely rarely all the headlines, tourists are Despite

Perhaps the best advice for when you’re the best advice for when you’re Perhaps The areas along the Sudanese and Ethiopian Sudanese and along the The areas In the northwest, the main problem is is the main problem In the northwest, them if they get taken. get them if they and plastic sunglasses can be bought in Kenya and plastic sunglasses can be bought in Kenya shilling, and you won’t miss hundred for a few you should also be cautious of the security the you should also be cautious of places. Cheap digital watches at some budget day-packs and money. Most hotels provide a provide day-packs and money. Most hotels although place for valuables, or secure safe walking around cities and towns is not to walking around cities and towns is not to with you – that in- carry anything valuable cameras, bumbags, cludes jewellery, watches, tion. As a visitor you needn’t paranoid, feel tion. As your wits about always keep but you should at night. you, particularly mugging carjacking to violent armed robbery, crime and corrup- white-collar course, and, of ily admit that the country’s biggest problem ily admit that the country’s biggest theft and snatch petty from It ranges crime. is Crime Crime patriot will read- the staunchest Kenyan Even borders are very risky, so please inquire risky, so please inquire very are borders securityabout the latest situations if you’re heading overland. tion locally before taking these roads, or travel- tion locally before or Thika. ling between and Garissa Garsen Marsabit, Marsabit–Moyale and Malindi–Lamu Marsabit–Moyale Marsabit, the situa- However, you should check routes. Security has also improved considerably in Security has also improved as the Isiolo– such high-riskpreviously areas targeted, as much of the violence and robber- the violence and of as much targeted, far from the main tourist routes. place ies take trouble in the north of the country. trouble in the north of tas problems seem the for most of to account armed tribal wars and cattle rustling across armed tribal wars Kenyan are There the Sudanese border. and it has gotten worse in recent years due to years worse in recent and it has gotten factors. complicated a number of filtrating from Somalia have made the north- have filtrating from Somalia country particularly dangerous, the east of ies of hold-ups, shoot-outs, cattle rustling and hold-ups, ies of in- Bandits and poachers lawlessness. general have been for many flowing into the country have stor- filled with are newspapers and the years, all had their effectall had their stability on the and safety AK-47s Kenya. northern and northeastern of Wars in Somalia, Sudan and Ethiopia have have Sudan and Ethiopia in Somalia, Wars getting the latest local information is essential local information the latest getting to travel. intend you wherever Banditry lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 328 scheme inKenya, butaresidence permit en- There’s no uniformly accepted discount card DISCOUNT CARDS foreigners is unlikely.highly boxed text, p259 ), butactualviolence against alsothe here canrunhigh (see sentiment region shouldbeaware thatanti-American Visitors tothepredominantly Muslimcoast to have atrouble-free timeinthe country. that Western travellers toKenya canexpect theywere isolatednow seems incidentsand abriefpanicinthetouristindustry,it caused events onanIsraelijet.Whilethese attack car-bombed timeasarocket atthesame the Paradise Hotel, northof was Mombasa, Nairobi wasbombed,andinNovember 2002 in attacks: August 1998theUSembassyin Kenya subjectto hastwicebeen terrorist Terrorism fee, of course. friends will‘fix’theproblem–forasubstantial and direct youtoanearbygarage where their ings, differential hasfailed, orsomethingelse bear- thentell youthewheel on yourwheels, of yourvaluables.Anothertrickistosplashoil bling; ifyoustop,you’llprobably berelieved areto indicate thatyourfrontwheels wob- Don’ttrustpeoplewhogesticulateoffs. wildly of several hundred shillings. blackmailed intoreciprocating totheorder traveller,delighted whoisthenemotionally trick istobestowsomekindof giftuponthe also probably hasulterior motives. Theusual ofviting youintothehospitality theirhome twice. Anyonewhomakes abigshow of in- son isgoingtobe from –it’sunlikely thatanyordinaryper- vague aboutexactlywhere theyknowyou youinthestreet, especiallyifthey’reognise should alwaysignore anyrequests for money. if they’re notactively hasslingyou,butyou people tothese asking forcash.It’sOKtotalk can soundvery convincing,buttheyallendup about beingrefugees orhaving sickrelatives examples of favourite tricks).People withtales daily, ifnothourly,occurrence (see p103 for ticular hotspot,with‘friendly’approaches a and gullibilityof foreigners. Nairobiisapar- come acrosspeoplewhoplayontheemotions At somepointinKenya you’llalmostcertainly Scams Tourists withcars alsofacepotential rip- scepticalof strangersBe whoclaimtorec- IETR • Dson ad ••DiscountCards DIRECTORY this excited by seeing you excited byseeing Via Archmede 164,00197, Rome) 10969 Berlin) .com; Neulinggasse29/8,1030 Vienna) 34 Paschimi Vasant Marg, Vihar,10057 New Delhi) ceedingly unlikelyceedingly –theembassy wouldexpect to get homeurgently, afree ticket homeisex- have exhausted. Forexample,ifyouneed been butonlyifotherchannelssome assistance, such actionsare legalinyour own country. jail after if committingacrimelocally,even bassy willnotbesympatheticifyouendupin the lawsof thecountryyouare in.Your em- own fault.Rememberthatyouare boundby cies ifthe trouble you’re inisremotely your speaking, itwon’tbemuch helpinemergen- to helpyouifget intotrouble. Generally of which youare acitizen–canandcan’tdo own embassy–the embassy of thecountry commission. high fromtheBritishembassy orbe obtained can commission,embassy visas orhigh many countries.Where there isnoKenyan Kenya hasdiplomaticrepresentation in EMBASSIES &CONSULATES or discounts for seniors. for age andwisdom,there are noconcessions recognised. Despite Kenyans’ general respect the international ISICcardshouldbewidely ID– other attractionsonproducingsuitable andsome for concessionaryrates atmuseums rates allover thecountry.Studentsare eligible titles youtoclaimthevery favourable resident Italy 52522, POBox52136, Gan Ramat Tel Aviv) Israel India Germany France Ethiopia Canada Austria Australia Kenyan Embassies&Consulates onward travel isoutof the question. sist withgetting anewpassport,butloanfor documents are as- stolen,theembassymight you tohave insurance. Ifallyourmoneyand 3 RueFreycinet, 75116 Paris) .ca; 415 Laurier Ave.ca; 415Laurier Ontario, East,Ottawa, K1N 6R4) Bldg,33-35 AinslieAve,Manpower Canberra, 2601) ACT Fikre Miriam Rd,POBox3301,Addis Fikre Miriam Ababa) In genuine emergencies get youmight tounderstand whatyourIt’s important ( ( ( % % ( % ( ( % ( % % ( ( 396-8082714; www.embassyofkenya.it; 396-8082714; www.embassyofkenya.it; % 011-26146537; www.kenyamission-delhi.com; 011-26146537; www.kenyamission-delhi.com; % % 03-5754633; 15 Rehov Abba Hillel Silver, AbbaHillel 03-5754633; 15Rehov 01-56622525; www.kenyaembassyparis.org; 01-56622525; www.kenyaembassyparis.org; 01-7123919; www.kenyamission-vienna 613-5631773; www.kenyahighcommission 01-610033; [email protected]; 01-610033; [email protected]; 02-62474788; www.kenya.asn.au; 02-62474788; www.kenya.asn.au; 030-2592660; Markgrafenstr 63, 030-2592660; Markgrafenstr lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 329 4445420; 331056; 331056; % % 2844000; www % (Map pp104-5 ; pp104-5 (Map 020-2712964) The country’s (www.eastafricansafarirally 3636000; http://nairobi (Map pp104-5 ; pp104-5 (Map % (off Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (off Map ( (www.safarisevens.com) Inter- % November street festival, with festival, November street Consular section (Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (Map Falling in February or March next for the in February Falling (www.rhinoark.org) Charity cross-country High Commission

High Commission

(off Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (off Map 311814; Uganda House, KenyattaAve) House, 311814; Uganda High Commission Eating listings in this book are ordered by ordered Eating listings in this book are

longest-running music festival (see p116 ), held over 10 p116 (see longest-running music festival in August. days Reinsurance Plaza, Aga Khan Walk) Reinsurance Plaza, Aga everynational rugby tournament held June near Nairobi (see ). p116 .britishhighcommission.gov.uk/kenya; Upper Hill Rd) Upper .britishhighcommission.gov.uk/kenya; GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS towards homosexuality negativity today Even Of Africa. of across much is still widespread homosexual lifestyles course, people do live particularly along the coast, but covertly, by law this is still punishable under Kenyan FOOD FOOD though outside Kenya, You can eat well in towns variety isn’t always a prior- the major a full rundown. In general for p51 ity – see to be able to snack for KSh10 you should and fill up for under on the street KSh100 an cafeteria; Kenyan in any cheap KSh500 Indian or standard meal will cost Western a Chinese meal anything up around KSh500, meal in a classy and a top-flight to KSh1000, with wine and all the trimmings restaurant per person. can easily exceed KSh2000 and organ- price (see the inside front cover), appropriate. cuisine where ised by type of Rhino Charge Tusker Safari Sevens Kenya Music Festival Mombasa Carnival ). p263 music, dance and other events (see East African Safari Rally covering than 50 years old, .com) Classic car rally more and Uganda using only pre-1971 vehicles. Kenya, Tanzania of November. Held in at the end Tanzania Uganda UK USA around Kenya FESTIVALS & EVENTS events happening Major following: include the Maulid Festival years, this annual celebration of the Prophet Moham- few med’s birthday is a huge event in Lamu town, drawing ). p308 (see of visitors hundreds rally in aid of Rhino Ark, pitting mad motorists against rally in aid of Rhino pitting Ark, in June. Held crazy obstacles. Riverside Paddocks); Riverside Paddocks); % .usembassy.gov; United Nations Ave) United Nations .usembassy.gov;

Honorary 3663000; 556647; 4445034; % 020) unless 2222566; www % % % % 4288000; 2228735; International 4262100; www.nairobi % 2247750; www.ambnai (off Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (off Map 575159; www.sudan 2732050; State House Rd) % % % 319076; City House, 2778000; www.ambafrance 2898000; www.ke.emb-japan (Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (Map (off Map p109 ; p109 (off Map 26568; International House, 2722182; http://nairobi.mfa % % (off Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (off Map 041-314705; Moi Ave, Mombasa) Ave, 041-314705; Moi % % % (Map pp104-5 ; pp104-5 (Map % % % DIRECTORY & Events •• Festivals 070-3504215; Niewe Parklaan 21, Parklaan 070-3504215; Niewe 012-3622249; 302 Brooks St, Menlo012-3622249; 302 022-2668285; www.kenyahighcomtz.org; % % High Commission 041-258235; Plot No 41, Nakasero Rd, PO (off Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (off Map ( ( (Map pp104-5 ; pp104-5 (Map (Map pp104-5 ; pp104-5 (Map 0155-772801; www.kenembsud.org; Block 1, 03-37234006; www.kenyarep-jp.com;03-37234006; 3-24-3 % High Commission (off Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (off Map

% ( 202-3876101; www.kenyaembassy.com; 2249 R (Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (Map High Commission Honorary Consulate ( 020-76362371; www.kenyahighcommission.net; (Map p260 ; p260 (Map %

(Map pp104-5 ; pp104-5 (Map % (Map pp104-5 ; pp104-5 (Map (off Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (off Map ( (Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (Map (

High Commission (Map pp104-5 ; pp104-5 (Map (Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (Map

% Embassy

% ( 2827100; Roshanmaer Pl, Lenana Rd) Lenana 2827100; Roshanmaer Pl,

( 45 Portland Pl, London W1B 1AS) 45 Portland Pl, London -ke.org; Barclays Plaza Bldg, Loita St) -ke.org; Barclays Plaza Bldg, 516, West Giraif, Street 60, Khartoum) 60, Street 516, West Giraif, .go.jp; Mara Rd, Upper Hill) Mara.go.jp; Rd, Upper http://kenia.nlembassy.org; Riverside Lane) http://kenia.nlembassy.org; Riverside 127 Mafinga St, Kinondoni, PO Box 5231, Dar es Salaam) 127 Mafinga St, Kinondoni, PO Box 5231, Dar Yakumo, Meguro-Ku, Tokyo 152-0023) Meguro-Ku, Tokyo Yakumo, 2597, The Hague) The 2597, Mama Ngina St) Mama Consulate .gov.il; Bishops Rd) Bishops .gov.il; robi.esteri.it; International House, Mama Ngina St); www.kenya.embassy.gov.au; Riverside Dr, off Chiromo Rd) Riverside Dr, off Chiromo www.kenya.embassy.gov.au; Wabera St) Box 5220, Kampala) Box 5220, St NW, Washington DC 20008) St NW, Washington House, Mama Ngina St) House, Mama % Switzerland Sudan South Africa Spain Netherlands Japan Italy Israel Ireland Germany India France Ethiopia Canada Austria Australia lection of these is listed here. Missions are Missions are these here. is listed lection of code (area in Nairobi located Embassies & Consulates in Kenya in Kenya Embassies & Consulates around the world main- countries Many a se- tain in Kenya; diplomatic missions USA UK Uganda Tanzania Sudan Netherlands South Africa Japan Pretoria) 0081, Park, lonelyplanet.com www.dfa.ie; ICDL Rd, off Mombasa Rd) ICDL Rd, off Mombasa www.dfa.ie; www.kenya.gc.ca; Limuru Rd, Gigiri) www.kenya.gc.ca; Limuru Rd, embassynrb.org; Kabernet Rd, off Ngong Rd) embassynrb.org; Kabernet Rd, off .diplo.de; 113 Riverside Dr) 113 Riverside.diplo.de; .hcinairobi.co.ke; Jeevan Bharati Bldg, Harambee Ave) .hcinairobi.co.ke; Jeevan Bharati Bldg, Harambee otherwise stated. DIRECTORY hideaways, allwitha gay focus. toluxurious coastal thing fromballoon safaris David Tours agencies you plan your trip. around theworldthatmaybeable tohelp gay-friendly tourcompanies inKenya and .com/africa/kenyata.html) also organises discreet gay events. Nairobi. Thegroup tolerant plans fora gay wedding. from anangrymob of totheir localsopposed toshieldprotective them custodyinLamu ger from 1999,whenacouplewastaken into as tolerantitoncewas.Memories stilllin- getaway forgaycouples,butit’snot paradise msenge is nowaSwahiliwordforgay,coinedhere: of gayrelationships, atleastprivately. There lesbians inNairobi, the coastismore tolerant exponentially. factor of partners, increasing theirsame-sex therisk protected withwomenwhoare sex unaware gay relationships, somemenwillalsohave un- Furthermore, duetothesecret nature of most munity astheyare inheterosexual circles. are stillasunpopularwithKenya’s gaycom- international aid organisations, condoms inKenya.cases of Despite thebestefforts accounts foronly5%to10%of HIV/AIDS subject over coming years. tobesuch ataboo the issuemayatleastcease kind andcallsforpublicdebate suggest that pollsofagainst theirbeliefs.However, this itwas but96%said against homosexuality, ples. Onlyathirddeclared themselves totally against theirpersonal andreligious princi- marriage was thatsame-sex said tional survey upon: in2005,98%of respondents toana- continuestobefrowned tion, homosexuality posi- atraditional,conservative maintaining the vastmajority of churches andmosques to the police. foreigners thenthreatening them toexpose ists doagoodlineinblackmail,pickingup better tobediscreet –somelocalconart- underthislaw,butit’scertainly prosecutions up to14years inprison.There are very few 330 For luxuryall-inclusive packages, thetravel The KenyaThe closest hastoa‘scene’isthe thereAlthough are probably more gays and gaymen between According totheUN,sex Awareness isincreasing inKenya, butwith IETR • Hldy ••Holidays DIRECTORY Purple Roofs travel directory travel Purple Roofs . Lamu has long been considered haslongbeen a . Lamu Gypsy’s Car Atlantis Events Atlantis

(www.davidtravel.com) (see (see p129 ) inWestlands, listsanumberof gayor Gay Kenya Gay (www.atlantisevents.com)

canarrange any- (www.gaykenya.com)

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10 October 10 October 1 June 1 May March/April 1 January Public Holidays February 2010and15 February 2011. This runsforfive daysfrom9March 2009,26 also widelycelebrated, especiallyonLamu. ing thebirthof theProphetMohammed, is 2011. TheMaulid Festival (see p329 ), mark- August 2009,112010and1 which runsfor30daysfrom21 of Ramadan, sundown duringtheMuslimfastingmonth coast. Many eateries there untilafter close frequently orbemore crowded than usual. the budget scale,andtransportmayrunless run onaccommodationatthelowerendof a cancause Kenya’s of attainment self-rule) suchevents asMadaraka Day(celebrating their usualSundayopeninghours. Popular or runaccordingto willeitherclose nesses public holidays, andmostshopsbusi- All government on andbanksclose offices HOLIDAYS issues andnewsfrom across Africa. .org.za) cies handled bySTA Travel andotherstudent lems isavery precaution. sensible Thepoli- policy to cover theft,lossandmedicalprob- Two words:get some!Atravel- insurance INSURANCE will bethatbit more crowded. popular publicareas like beaches thecoastal people willtravel periodsand duringthese mostly have littleimpactonvisitors, butmore holidays intouristhotels,ford tostay these (five As weeks). few Kenyan familiescanaf- month), August(onemonth)andDecember shorter. HolidaysusuallyfallinApril(one summervacationstendelled, though tobe ments onwhich theywere originallymod- much like theBritisheducationestablish- Kenyan schools runonathree-term system School Holidays 26 December 25 December 12 December 20 October Muslim festivals are significantonthe For information, isanexcellentwebsite covering gay Labour Day Madaraka Day Madaraka New Year’s Day Moi Day Kenyatta Day Kenyatta Good Friday andEasterMonday Good Friday Boxing Day Day Christmas Independence Day Behind theMask lonelyplanet.com (www.mask

DIRECTORY

041- 337 % has two has lots Ol Tukai Lodge 040-3202234; 040-3202234; (Map p260 ; p260 (Map 303-2322979; www % Travel Scene Services % ( 020-224443; www.apdk.org; 042-20689; Malindi Centre, 042-633449; off Kenyatta042-633449; off Rd) (Map p272 ; p272 (Map % % 0845-1249971, minicom 0845- % % ( i-point

(Map p297 ; p297 (Map (Map p304 ; p304 (Map 020-3871530; www.travelsceneafrica.com) Nairobi 020-4445514; www.oltukailodge.com) In Nairobi, only the ex-London taxiIn Nairobi, cabs Many of the top-end beach resorts on on resorts the top-end beach of Many disabled For further information about % % Lamu Rd) 225428; Moi Ave) 225428; APDK House, Lagos Rd, PO Box 46747, Nairobi) This group disabled visitors. in Kenya may also be able to help .access-able.com; PO Box 1796, Wheatridge CO, USA) PO Box 1796, Wheatridge.access-able.com; ; pp104-5 (APDK; Map Holiday Care accustomed to taking disabled on people out agency safari. The travel ( disabled travellers. with experience of tubs. In Amboseli Park, National ( disabled-friendly cottages. following: contact the travel Access-Able Travel Source Association for the Physically Disabled of Kenya Barclays Centre) Barclays details.for .go.ke) TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES easy for physi- is not in Kenya Travelling disabled but it’s not impossible. people, cally tourist companies and facilities are few Very and those up for disabled travellers, geared to the expen- to be restricted tend that are are However, Kenyans and lodges. hotels sive accommodating and willing to very generally assistance whatever they can. Visually offer though, travellers, or hearing-impaired by without an hard to get will find it very able-bodied companion. a spacious enough to accommodate are wheelchair, but many safari companies are Diani Beach Lamu Malindi TouristMombasa & Coast Office Abroad Tourist Offices Tourism maintains a The Ministry of offices, including in the overseas number of UK, USA, Canada and Italy. Most only pro- post or email. vide information by telephone, (www.tourism Visit the ministry website 1249976, outside the UK 208-760072; www.holidaycare Croydon, House, 4 Bedford Park, Sunley .org.uk; CR0 2AP, UK)Surrey Advice for disabled and less-mobile senior travellers. the coast have facilities for the disabled, facilities for the disabled, the coast have ramps or fully token whether it’s a few equipped rooms with handrails and bath- . Just add or subtract DIRECTORY •• Time (saa moja) (saa Swahili time, and 7am and 7pm and 7pm Swahili time, and 7am

In the more up-market bush camps you’ll up-market In the more

six hours from whatever time you are told; you are time from whatever six hours Swahili doesn’t between distinguish am and unless this often pm. You don’t come across and attractions. most can at least provide basic maps of the basic maps of most can at least provide on local businesses town and brochures country, ranging from helpful private con- country, ranging from helpful private offices; cerns to underfunded government tourist office in Nairobi. There are a hand- are tourist office There in Nairobi. in the information offices elsewhere ful of Considering the extent to which the coun- to which Considering the extent to think on tourism, it’s incredible try relies still no was writing, there that, at the time of TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION Local Tourist Offices to take soiled toilet paper out of the park the park soiled toilet paper out of to take with you (consider carrying sealable bags for this purpose). parks. Squatting on crumbling concrete is is parks. Squatting on crumbling concrete it’s good practice common. When trekking some sort of seating arrangement. Things are seating Things are some sort of arrangement. less pleasant when camping in the wildlife be confronted with a long drop covered with with a long drop covered be confronted stockpile of lost lids somewhere… Public Public lost lids somewhere… stockpile of but almost equally rare, toilets in towns are slightly less-than-emetic pay a few are there a only got in Nairobi if you’ve conveniences to spend. penny a rare commodity – either they’re a prized commodity – either they’re a rare a vast or there’s hunters for trophy souvenir in the most unlikely places. Nearly all hotels places. Nearly all hotels in the most unlikely toilets, but seats are sit-down sport flushable These vary from pits (quite literally) to full- These literally) vary from pits (quite that can spring up flush, luxury conveniences you speak Swahili, but you still needyou speak Swahili, but to be for it. prepared TOILETS (saa sita) (saa 1 o’clock are is six hours out of kilter with the rest of the of with the rest kilter out of is six hours 6 o’clock world. Noon and midnight are year-round. You should also be aware of the of also be aware You should year-round. perverselytime’, which ‘Swahili concept of TIME TIME hours plus three GMT/UTC is Kenya in Time Cards come in denominations of KSh200, KSh200, Cards of come in denominations and call and KSh2000, KSh1000 KSh500, than for expensive slightly more are charges standard lines. number and passcode on the card. There are are card. There on the and passcode number the country. sellingall over the cards booths lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY returning toKenya notinvalidate a does system, visitingTanzania orUganda and Monday to Friday;note thatthesmaller of- 90 days. Immigration offices are only open alien ifyou’re more goingtobe staying than tofilloutaformregisteringalso need asan the whimsof theimmigrationofficials.You and to varywidelydependingontheoffice a three-month extension, andprices tend twopassportphotos for while. You’llneed friendly andhelpful,buttheprocess takes a at theimmigrationoffices are generally are basis.Staff usuallyissued onasame-day hours,during normaloffice andextensions canberenewedVisas atimmigrationoffices Visa Extensions the benefitof the doubt. andwork,you’llgenerallyto stay begiven it’s fairlyobviousthatyouaren’t intending snap judgmentsaboutyourappearance. If funds’areof ‘sufficient usuallylinked to you’re arriving byair;requests forevidence travel. before the latest entryrequirements withembassies each countryyouplantovisit.Alwayscheck for visa aseparate youdostillneed though single-entry Tanzanian andUgandan visas, appliestoto gofurtherafield.Thesame to get unlessyouplan amultiple-entryvisa single-entry Kenyan sothere’s visa, noneed ders withUganda and Tanzania. can alsobeissued on arrivalatthelandbor- payment isaccepted inlocalcurrency. Visas inTanzaniastraightforward andUganda, and Applications forKenyan are visas simpleand entry withinthree months of thedate of issue. aredoing itbymail.Visas usuallyvalidfor apply wellinadvance,especiallyifyou’re diplomatic missions overseas, butyoushould period – see below . can beextended forafurtherthree-month International AirportinNairobi. Touristvisas onarrivalatJomoKenyattacan beobtained for three months fromthedate of entryand empt. (US$50/€40/UK£30)areVisas valid smaller Commonwealthcountriesare ex- citizensfromafew although and Canadians, Americans Australians, NewZealanders, visitors toKenya, includingEuropeans, areVisas nowrequired byalmostall VISAS 338 It’s alwaysbesttosmarten upabitif AfricanpartnershipUnder theEast It’s alsopossibletoget fromKenyan visas IETR • Vss ••Visas DIRECTORY 2-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Avecnr Kenyatta &UhuruHwy; you’ll have togoAddisAbaba inEthiopia with SomaliaandSudanare so bothclosed, you canget Theborders thatcountry’svisa. consulate mean here, necessarily itdoesn’t in USdollars (see p329 for details). contact feesMost embassies willwantyoutopayvisa received change (these frequently inNairobi). confirm thehours applicationsare thatvisa toplanaheadandcalltheembassy need intend tovisit.Ifyouare goingtodothisyou forothercountriesthatthey picking upvisas around, manytravellers spendsometimehere AfricaandthecitycentreEast iseasytoget Since Nairobiisacommongateway cityto Visas forOnwardTravel Nairobi Mombasa Malindi Lamu Kisumu following: for Nairobi orMombasa extensions. visa fices maysometimesrefer travellers backto titutes aswelllocal aspiringRomeos. women may beapproached bymale pros- lems isatthebeach resorts onthecoast,where them you aren’t interested. just having agoandwillgive upifyoutell of interest fromwould-be suitors. Mostare solowomenin barsalthough willattractalot are generally respectful towards women, intheirday-to-daylives,However, Kenyans risks of violenceastheirmalecounterparts. high-profile womeninpoliticsrunthesame represented inpositionsof power,andthefew Within Kenyan society,womenare poorly WOMEN TRAVELLERS canusuallybeissued the and visas day. same passport photosare required for applications and costUS$50formostnationalities.Two aremonth visas readily available inNairobi future. foreseeable arevisas unlikely tobeavailable forthe andSomali visa, if youwantaSudanese Bldg, Mama Bldg, Mama Ngina Dr) Hwy&Oginga Kenyatta Odinga Rd) Travellers are sometimesreferred to Mombasa. Local immigrationoffices includethe For Ethiopia,Tanzania andUganda, three- Just because acountryhasanembassyor Just because The onlyplaceyou are likely tohave prob- (Map (Map p304 ; (Map (Map pp104-5 ; (Map (Map p176 Plaza,cnrJomo ; 1stfl,Reinsurance (Map (Map p297 ; (Map (Map p256 ; % % 042-633032; off Kenyatta Rd) 042-633032; offKenyatta % % 042-20149; Mama NginaRd) 042-20149; Mama 041-311745; Uhuru ni Kari 041-311745; UhuruniKari 020-222022; NyayoHouse, h 8.30am-12.30pm & lonelyplanet.com

It’s DIRECTORY

339 Keep in Keep

020-222022; 020-222022; Kenya Youth (Map pp104-5 ; %

, which runs a runs a , which 020-331191; www.sa % (

(Map pp104-5 ;

is a conservation-based off- 0337-30017; www.volunteerkenya.org; Reverend0337-30017; www.volunteerkenya.org; % 020-225379; [email protected]; Gilfillan House, Another good organisation is Another good organisation This section provides a list of some of the of some a list of This section provides thing is no such in mind that there Keep Inter-Community Development Involvement Taita Discovery CentreTaita Work permits and resident visas are not visas are and resident Work permits VOLUNTEERING VOLUNTEERING variety of three- to four-week projects, in- projects, to four-week three- variety of cluding road building, health education and clinic construction. (ICODEI; majority of volunteers in Kenya walk away all in Kenya volunteers of majority the experience. for the better vannahcamps.com) Camps The Savannah & Lodges. shoot of conservationpurpose-built cen- research and the Taita of 68,000 hectares covers tre West National near Tsavo Rukinga ranches forming a vital migration corridor for Park, elephants and other animals between Tsavo range on a huge Courses and Mt Kilimanjaro. conservation along with run here topics are of in conservationhands-on projects and the local community. Voluntary Development Projects There are quite a large number of volun- number of a large quite are There is certainly a cause which for in Kenya, teers way is a great celebration as ‘voluntourism’ your the ecological footprint of to reduce forum for self-trip. It’s also an amazing lives a few you touch exploration, especially if the way. friends along and make in this book, programs covered volunteer These is not exhaustive. though our coverage you a head start selected programs should give to suited in finding a position that is perfectly and goals. your individual needs placement. Generally volunteer as a perfect a pro- out of as much get speaking, you will willing to put into it; the vast gram as you are servicing and south- in Somalia the famines the camps along refugee and the ern Sudan those border with countries. Kenyan danger- work is toughmind that the often and low. very is usually ous, and pay employer A prospective easy to arrange. the necessary to sort may be able paperwork otherwisefor you, but yourself you’ll find time and money at the spending a lot of immigration office in Nairobi. Nyayo House, cnr Kenyatta Ave & Uhuru Hwy, Nairobi) & Nyayo House, cnr Kenyatta Ave % Nairobi) PO Box 48902, Kenyatta Ave, (www.street

DIRECTORY •• Work , which works to improve condi- , which works to improve

children.org.uk) STREET KIDS STREET KIDS Nairobi in particular has huge problems with AIDS of whom are many children, street around asking trail foreigners orphans, who you It’s up to you whether for food or change. the word will go around but if you do give, It’s get a moment’s peace. and you won’t your donations will how much also debatable like a minima- help as the older boys operate fia, extortingfrom the younger kids. money money might be If you want to help out, charity, such as the to a donated better Children Consortium for Street tions for these children. Regrettably, black women in the company Regrettably, With the upsurge in crime in Nairobi and in crime in Nairobi With the upsurge

The most fruitful area in which to look to look in which The most fruitful area is awash with UN and other aid agencies is awash with UN and other aid agencies for work, assuming that you have the rel- for work, assuming that you have evant skills, is the ‘disaster Nairobi industry’. it’s unlikely you’ll see it’s unlikely and jobs advertised, them is to the only way you’ll find out about expats. As time with resident spend a lot of in most countries, the rule is that if a local no need to can be found to do the job, there’s a foreigner. hire found are in the safari business, teaching, ad- in the safari business, teaching, found are Except and journalism. for teaching, vertising sible, for foreigners to find jobs. The most to find jobs. sible, for foreigners employment might be in which areas likely WORK WORK although by no means impos- It’s difficult, from hotels and security from hotels guards as well as to offering hustlers from Kenyan approaches the Again, ‘customer’. help rip off the white taking by taxis this can be avoided of worst etc. restaurants and between hotels tutes, and can face all kinds of discrimination of and can face all kinds tutes, walks along the beach or through quiet city walks along the beach for disaster, and criminals a recipe are streets a taxi,usually work in gangs, so take even if a group. in you’re assumed to be prosti- often men are white of lence, rape is a real risk for women. Lone night risk lence, rape is a real along the coast, women should avoid walking avoid should along the coast, women around at night. The ugly fact is that while without vio- to be robbed just likely men are local sensibilities. always best to cover your legs and shoulders your legs and shoulders always best to cover so as not to offend when away from the beach lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY Sokoke Schools & Ecotourism Scheme Schools&Ecotourism Sokoke and Beach; atWatamu Study Centre ( p292 ), which operates theMwambaField onthebeach; tolayeggs to Watamu which protects themarineturtlesthatcome teer vacations; ( p274 ), offering one-tothree-month volun- projectsmental are runby ness, agriculture and conservation. focusing onhealthissuessuch asAIDSaware- offers anumberof longer communityprojects tion withtheUniversity of IndianaintheUSA, Lubanga,Reuben POBox459,Bungoma) 340 © LonelyPlanetPublications Other community-building andenviron- IETR • Vlnern ••Volunteering DIRECTORY Watamu Turtle Watch Watamu Turtle Camps International International Camps , runinconjunc- (ASSETS; (ASSETS; (p291), Arabuko A Rocha Volunteer WorkInformationService Volunteer Overseas Voluntary Service Global Volunteers Voluntary Service forInternational Coordinating Committee following: the work.Reliablebodiesincludevolunteer and Mida Creek. Ecocamp) neartheArabukoSokoke Forest p292 ), runningprograms(includingMida .workingabroad.com) SW15 2PN)Placementsfor professionals. www.vsointernational.org; 317Putney Rd,London Bridge Foreign organisations canalsoassistwith (www.unesco.org/ccivs) (www.globalvolunteers.org) (VSO; (VSO; lonelyplanet.com % (www 020-8780 2266; TRANSPORT 341 , which is , which 020-603260) he details given in in he details given © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © % 020-825400; www.kenyaairports Jomo Kenyatta International (WIL; % (NBO; , 15km southeast of the city. By African , 15km southeast of Wilson Airport THINGS CHANGE... is particu- information in this chapter The Check directly to change. larly vulnerable agent to make with the airline or a travel (and ticket how a fare you understand sure of the be aware you may buy) works and for international security requirements T Shop carefully. travel. as pointers should be regarded this chapter for your own careful, not a substitute and are research. up-to-date Some flights between Nairobi and Some flights between and Nairobi Kilimanjaro International Airport or Mwanza Airport Kilimanjaro International as well as many domestic flights, in Tanzania, use on Langata the city centre about 6km south of Rd. The other arrival point in the country is Uganda, Scandinavia, the Republic of Ireland, Ireland, of Republic the Scandinavia, Uganda, Rwanda, Sudan and certain Commonwealth writ- visas at time of countries did not require situation the latest and check p338 ing; see before travelling. AIR Airports & Airlines flights from Nairobi to and Most international handled by are Airport .co.ke) a smaller terminals, international with two number and an incredible domestic terminal sou- and expensive duty-free shops offering of access. You can snacks and internet venirs, the terminals. walk easily between tional airports, which are no different from different no are tional airports, which Single-entry visas terminals. most Western arrival for most na- on typically available are not required), are tionalities (passport photos and cost US$50/€40/£30/Swiss Fr79. With that said, contact you should your nearest the most office diplomatic to get Kenyan up-to-date information. Passport nation- on which no restrictions are There Tanzania, Citizens of Kenya. alities can enter standards, it’s a pretty well-organised place, place, well-organised standards, it’s a pretty

It’s also worth checking out cheap charter charter out cheap It’s also worth checking

Getting There & Away There Getting 341 Land 343 Land

Flights, tours and rail tickets can be can be and rail tickets Flights, tours A few adventurous souls with their own souls with their adventurous A few Sea & Lake 347 Tours Around Getting 347 Air 348 Bicycle 348 Boat 348 Bus & Motorcycle Car Hitching353 Local Transport 355 Safaris 347 347 355 Train 349 353 Entering the Country the Entering 341 Air 341 GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING THERE & AWAY

straightforward, particularly at the interna- ENTERING THE COUNTRY ENTERING THE COUNTRY pleasingly is generally Kenya Entering /travel_services. after serious planning and preparation. seriousafter planning Europe, but most routes pass through pass sev-Europe, but most routes only be considered eral war zones and should vehicles still travel overland to Kenya from to Kenya overland still travel vehicles absurdly cheap and there’s no obligation to and there’s absurdly cheap into. booked you’re stay at the resort these will probably be part of a package deal a package these be part of will probably often on the coast. Prices are resort to a hotel flights to Mombasa from Europe, although sonal. Conveniently for Europeans, the cheap- sonal. Conveniently usually coincide with the European est fares to September. summer holidays, from June relatively cheap. It’s important to note that It’s important to note cheap. relatively highly sea- and prices are flight availability is a major African hub and flights between is a major common and Africa are of and the rest Kenya Southern Africa or Egypt, flying is by far the Southern Africa or Egypt, Nairobi to Kenya. way to get most convenient Unless you are travelling overland from from overland travelling you are Unless

CONTENTS Transport booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com online booked TRANSPORT .airindia.com) www.swiss.com) .co.ke) Kilimanjaro Kilimanjaro .co.ke) only. .oman-air.com) .flysaa.com) www.kenya-airways.com) www.british-airways.com) arie employee. airline toKenyaget flight astandby unless you’re an an expensive exercise. Note thatyoucan’t tion, andbeforced tobuyoneonthespot– ticket youmayincur thewrathof immigra- If youenter Nairobi withno onward orreturn Tickets Airlines Swiss International Airways South African SN BrusselsAirlines Aviation Safarilink Rwandair Qatar Airways Air Precision Oman Air KLM Airways Kenya Express Jetlink Gulf Air Ethiopian Airlines Emirates Air Egypt Daallo Airlines Airways British Airkenya Air Zimbabwe Air Mauritius Air Malawi Air Madagascar Air India Airways Express African where otherwise indicated: from Kenya, inNairobiexcept withoffices incident just onefatal since 1977. and hasagenerally goodsafety record, with charter airlinesand domestic flights. by thisismainlyused toZanzibar, from flights 9kmwestofMombasa, thecentre, butapart Airport Moi International 342 www.emirates.com) gascar.mg) www.ethiopianairlines.com) mauritius.com) .flysn.com) airtz.com) The followingare airlinesflyingtoand Kenya Airways isthemainnationalcarrier, (KL; Map (KL; Map ETN HR WY • i THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING (GF; (AI; Map (AI;Map pp104-5 ; (EK; Map (EK; Map pp104-5 ; (QP; (MS; (WY; Map (WY; Map p260 ; (WB; (QM; % pp104-5; (PW; % (MK; % (UM; (QR; www.qatarairways.com) % (D3; (BA; Map (BA;Map pp104-5 ; (KQ; Map (KQ; Map pp104-5 ; (J0; (J0; 020-241123; www.gulfairco.com) % (MD; 020-605745; www.airkenya.com) % 020-226821; www.egyptair.com.eg) % (ET; Map Map (ET; pp104-5 ; 0733-740703; www.rwandair.com) % % % ( 020-240965; www.airmalawi.com) % (SN; % % 020-602561; www.precision 2-216 www.air 020-229166; 020-339522; www.airzim.co.zw) (SA; 020-244285; www.jetlink.co.ke) 020-317318; www.daallo.com) 020-600777; www.safarilink % % 020-3274747; www.klm.com) 020-225286; www.airmada (3P; % % (MBA; % 041-221444; www 020-4443070; www % (SR; 020-340925; www 020-211187; 020-229663; www % 020-824333) % % % % 020-3274100; 020-3744045; 020-244430; 041-433211) 020-330837; in bac locations. branch out SouthernAfrica. Checkitswebsites for Travel Travel Rennies Africa Bag Travel UK Traveller The Round theWorldFlights Bootsnall Air Treks tickets: put agood deal together. travel agents before youfindsomeonewhocan Either wayyoumayhave several togothrough then buyaticket ontoNairobifrom there. Europe ticket, stopover inJohannesburg, and often cheaper tobuyanRTW orAustralia– the difference maynotbesogreat, butit’sstill you’re comingfromAustraliaorNewZealand Nairobi isusuallymuch more expensive. If coming fromEuropeanyticket thatincludes mon AfricanstopisJohannesburg –ifyou’re Kenya onalonger journey,butthemostcom- are atempting optionifyouwanttoinclude Discount round-the-world(RTW) tickets INTERCONTINENTAL (RTW)TICKETS ticket. plane isincludedinthecostoftional flights your www.travelocity.ca. For online bookingstrywww.expedia.ca and national studenttravelis Canada’s agency. Cuts Travel Canada line bookings,try www.travel.com.au. .au) .au. % For thelocationof STA Travel branches call Australia Tours www.no1-travel.com) source inJapan is ( Kong Singapore in STA Travel proliferates inAsia, withbranches Asia flights.com) % The airportdeparture forinterna- tax The followingare onlineagents forRTW has offices throughout Australia. Foron- throughout hasoffices 1300 733035orvisitwww.statravel.com Bangkok 03 53912922;www.statravel.co.jp)

Flight Centre

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% % (www.statravel.co.za) (www.airtreks.com) (www.bootsnall.com)

2736 1618;www.statravel.com.hk) 2200 7760; www.fourseastravel.com/english) (www.travelbag.com) ( %

( % ( % 6737 7188;www.statravel.com.sg)

(www.thetravelleruk.com) (www.renniestravel.com) 800-667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) ; inHongKongtry

02-236 0262;www.statravel.co.th) ( % No 1Travel 133 133;www.flightcentre.com (www.roundtheworld have through- offices lonelyplanet.com

( . Anotherre- % 03 3205 6073; 03 32056073; and and Four Seas Four Seas , Japan Hong Hong STA . ,

TRANSPORT TNT 343 11-233 02-625 Evening Evening %

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(www.transwayint (ISTA; (ISTA; has offices in doz- 2-359 0200; www 22-221 81 431) Time Out Time 01245 608 291; www 01245 608 291; % ( % 0870 444 7474; www.b-t-w 0870 444 7474; (

. % ( 0870 814 4001; www.ebookers.com)0870 814 4001; % 0870 890 8099; flightcentre.co.uk) 0870 890 8099; ( 0870 442 3542; www.questtravel.com) 0870 442 3542; 0870 890 1456; www.travelbag.co.uk) % 0870 160 0599; www.statravel.co.uk) For 0870 160 0599; www.statravel.co.uk) (www.alrais.com) In Dubai. (www.alrais.com) % (www.cheaptickets.com) ( % ( . Mumbai (www.lowestfare.com) ( % (www.stictravel.com)

(www.trailfinders.co.uk) % Transway International (www.travelocity.com) (www.oriontour.com) In Istanbul. (www.oriontour.com) ( and in the free online magazine magazine online the free and in ( (www.sta.com) For travellers under the age of 26. For travellers under the age (www.sta.com) (www.expedia.com) and (www.kayak.com) (www.orbitz.com) (www.itn.net) The following agencies are recommended recommended are The following agencies Recommended travel agencies: travel Recommended LAND LAND 7257) In Jerusalem. 7257) In .co.uk) Orion-Tour Bus bus is possible on sev- by Kenya Entering a breeze; and it’s generally routes, eral major Orbitz Travel STA Travelocity India STIC Travels Indian cities, including ens of 57 468) is agency Middle East Recommended agencies: Al-Rais Travels Egypt Tours Panorama Israel Student Travel Association Trailfinders Travel Bag USA known as in the USA are agents Discount travel (although you won’t seeconsolidators on a sign the door saying ‘Consolidator’). San Francisco America, capital consolidator of is the ticket although some good deals can be found in Los big cities. other New York and Angeles, bookings: for online Cheap Tickets Expedia ITN Kayak Lowest Fare sheet newspapers, in sheet newspapers, Standard (www.tntmagazine.com) Bridge World the Flight Centre Flightbookers North-South Travel .northsouthtravel.co.uk) North-South Travel donates part world. of its profit to projects in the developing Quest Travel Travel STA travellers under the age of 26. travellers under the age .eptours.com) In Cairo. .eptours.com) ernational.com) 06 %

( 020 620 %

( Airfair CTS Viaggi 3038 1555; www.stb.com 0508 782 872; www.statravel 01 40 15 11 15; 01 40 15 11 15; 90 217 09 79; www 90 217 09 79; 0825 000 747; www 0825 000 747; % 0800 243 544; www.flightcentre ( % % ( % %

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, specialising in student and , specialising in student 902 116 226; www.barceloviajes.com) 902 116 226; . GETTING •• Land THERE & AWAY 01805 284 366; www.lastminute.de) 0892 705 000; www.lastminute.fr) 089 747 3330; www.justtravel.de) 01805 456 422; www.statravel.de) For 01805 456 422; www.statravel.de) % 0212-993 6082; www.ividiomas.com) In 0212-993 6082; www.ividiomas.com) ( (www.otu.fr) This agency specialises in (www.otu.fr) This 0892 893 892; www.anyway.fr) % % % 54-011 4114-7595; www.asatej.com) In 54-011 4114-7595; www.asatej.com) ( ( % STA Travel STA ( ( % % ( % (www.expedia.de) ( ( Flight Centre

and throughout branches the country. have

Venezuela. travellers under the age of 26. travellers under the age Argentina. .nouvelles-frontieres.es) .nouvelles-frontieres.fr) .br) In Brazil. .br) www.vdm.com)

pear in the travel pages of the weekend broad- the weekend of pages pear in the travel UK & Ireland UK & Ireland is big business in London. Discount air travel ap- agencies for many travel Advertisements Student Travel Bureau IVI Tours Recommended agencies: ASATEJ South America South America The site www.travel.co.nz is recommended is recommended www.travel.co.nz The site online bookings. for Both New Zealand New Zealand NouvellesFrontiéres Recommended agencies: BarceloViajes SPAIN SPAIN One recommended agency is agency One recommended air.nl) 5121; www.airf THE NETHERLANDS THE NETHERLANDS One recommended agent is agent One recommended ITALY ITALY STA Travel STA Just Travel Lastminute Recommended agencies: Expedia GERMANY GERMANY student and youth travellers. student and youth Voyageurs du Monde OTU Voyages Lastminute NouvellesFrontiéres Recommended agencies: Recommended Anyway Continental Europe Europe Continental FRANCE lonelyplanet.com youth travel. .co.nz) .co.nz) 462 0431; www.cts.it) TRANSPORT taeln uninsured. travelling in some countries thatyou are effectively insurance varies wildly, andyouwillfind the border. Thecostandqualityof such local whencrossing but ratherhasto bebought countries, vance formanyout-of-the-way documentation. all about local automobileassociationfordetails to prevent car-import rackets. your Contact in manycountriesAfrica,andis designed as agearbox. whentravelling Thisisnecessary that you’re planningtocarrywithyou,such tospecifyanyexpensivealso need spare parts ary waiver of importduty. The passport forthevehicle andactsasatempor- de passage endouane, a British colonies.Youmayalsoneed one of which mostly forformer isneeded there are twokindsof international permits, in additionto their domestic licence. Beware: insurance andaninternational drivingpermit thevehicle’sneed registration papers, liability Drivers of cars andriders of motorbikes will Car &Motorcycle your fellow passengers. quite abitof timeandafew angryglares from inadvancecansavearranging yourvisa you held upfortoolongattheborder. Thatsaid, formalities,you’llrarely visa any necessary be togetwhile youneed thebustosortout off 344 Liability insurance isnotavailable inad- tion over awholeyear. contribute asmuchtoclimate changeasanaverage consump- household’sgasandelectricity The statisticsare areturn frightening: flightbetweenEurope twopeopletaking andtheUSwill they allowustotravel, butbecausetheyrelease greenhouse gaseshighintotheatmosphere. change) butplanesare farandawaytheworstoffenders, notjustbecauseofthesheerdistances and authortravel. thecarbonoffset schemerunbyclimatecare.org.supports LonelyPlanetoffsets allofitsstaff andUganda. Kazakhstan initiativesother climate-friendly inthedeveloping inIndia,Honduras, world–includingprojects greenhouse gasestheyare responsible forwithcontributionstoenergy-saving and projects Climatecare.org andotherwebsites use‘carboncalculators’thatallowjet-setters tooffset the Carbon Offset Schemes Pretty muchevery formofmotortravel generates CO Flying &Climate Change fit, butbelieves weallhave aresponsibility onglobalwarming. tolimitourpersonalimpact fastest-growing contributortotheproblem.LonelyPlanetregards travel, overall, asaglobalbene- Climate change isaseriousthreat totheecosystems thathumansrely upon,andairtravel isthe CLIMATE CHANGE &TRAVEL ETN HR WY • ad THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners inthetravel industry,Lonely Planet,togetherwithRoughGuidesandotherconcernedpartners which iseffectively a carnet Carnet may the countryare very Forexample,a high. to Kenya, beaware thatportcharges in ontherough far between northern roads. your suppliescarefully, asstopsare few and you’re comingfromEthiopiayoushould plan readily available if atallbordertowns,though ti crossing. this situation carefullysecurity before attempting frequent cross-border tribal wars, socheck the andgoat-rustling areCattle- rife, triggering problems oftenbut security forceitsclosure. is changeable – theborderisusuallyopen, ation aroundthemainentrypointat Moyale into Kenya situ- fromthenorth.Thesecurity Ethiopia offers theonly viable overland route With ongoingproblems inSudanandSomalia, Ethiopia p349. see check allthecosts in advance. willing toarrange foryou,but everything shipping agents inNairobi andMombasa US$750 ontopof this.There are numerous portcancostanothera shipintheMombasa of Puttingavehicle theshippingitself! onto the port–thisisalmostasmuch asthecost US$1000 justtoget offtheship andoutof islikelyto Mombasa tocost more than RoverLand shippedfromtheMiddleEast 2 If you’re planningtoship yourvehicle Petrol, spare partsandrepair shopsare For roadrulesandfurtherinformation, (themaincauseofhuman-inducedclimate lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT 345 020- 020-316929) % % 020-210711; easycoach@ 020-210711; 020-340430) % (Map ; pp104-5 % (Map (Map pp104-5 ; (www.scandinaviagroup.com) Nairobi 057-2639) Arusha/Moshi shuttle buses. shuttle 057-2639) Arusha/Moshi Nairobi % ( (Map pp104-5 ; 057-8142) Arusha/Moshi shuttle buses. 057-8142) Arusha/Moshi (Map pp104-5 ; Arusha % ( In Mombasa, buses to Dar es Salaam leave In Mombasa, buses to Dar es Salaam leave Buses cross the border at Taveta, which can which Buses cross the border at Taveta, In Dar es Salaam, buses leave from the from the In Dar es Salaam, buses leave If you want to do the journey in stages, Following are the main bus companies bus companies the main are Following Arusha also be reached by matatu from Voi (see p146 p146 by matatu from Voi (seealso be reached details). more for NAIROBI TO ARUSHA/MOSHI an ordinary bus or of the choice You have comfortable minibus shuttle more a much service Each between Nairobi and Arusha. from the Mombasa ferry jetty at Likoni. A from the Mombasa ferry matatu you the 6.5km between can then take side, the two border posts. On the Tanzanian to matatus from Horohoro regular are there Tanga (see p281 for more details). MOMBASA TO ARUSHA/MOSHI local buses leave rickety A number of Mombasa every evening Arusha for Moshi and occasional morning are There in Tanzania. services, around 7pm but most buses leave around are Fares from Mombasa or Arusha. to and KSh1500 to Moshi (six hours) KSh1000 In Mombasa, busesArusha (7½ hours). leave Health the Mwembe Tayari from in front of Ave. Kenyatta Centre Jomo on wananchi.com) buses from on direct Most people travel Mombasa, but it’s easy enough to do the jour- by local bus or matatuney in stages if you’d the way. stops along a few rather make near the Ave, from around Jomo Kenyatta av- Rd. The Tayari junction with Mwembe to Dar (eight cost is around KSh1000 erage (two hours), to Tanga and KSh500 hours) with depending on the company you travel the buses. and the standard of Mohamed bus stand on Bibi Titi Mnazi Mmoja and Lindi Sts, along the Rd, near Uhuru Park. Mmoja Mnazi southeast side of matatus to Lunga Lunga frequent are there serving Tanzania: serving Akamba Davanu Shuttle Easy Coach Riverside Shuttle Scandinavia Express ES SALAAM MOMBASA TO TANGA/DAR Numerous buses along the coast road run and Dar es Salaam, from Mombasa to Tanga the border at Lunga Lunga/Horohoro. crossing 229618) GETTING •• Land THERE & AWAY

Those coming to Kenya with their own with Those coming to Kenya If you don’t have your own transport own transport your If you don’t have From immigration on the Ethiopian side side on the Ethiopian immigration From the two countries have been suspended. the two countries have to tourists, although you may be able to to tourists, although to you may be able for p347 cross on a tour (seetemporarily information). Train servicesmore between can only be undertaken with your own ve- can only be undertaken is closedhicle, and one at Loitokitok, which from the Serengeti to the Masai Mara, which which Mara, to the Masai from the Serengeti Tanzania are at Namanga, Taveta, Isebania at Namanga, Taveta, are Tanzania by and Lunga Lunga, and can be reached is also a crossing public transport. There Tanzania Tanzania and between Kenya The main land borders Ethiopian border (see also opposite ). opposite Ethiopian border (see also was only possible to travel between the two was only possible to travel on the countries either by air or via Metema continue to improve, the Kenya–Sudan bor- the Kenya–Sudan continue to improve, writing it but at the time of der may reopen, There has been some peace progress in re- has been some peace progress There to the neighbour though Kenya’s cent years, north is still far from untroubled. If things the border to try and stop the flow of poach- the border to try and stop the flow of into Kenya. bandits and weapons ers, Sudan convoy, as the Kenyan government has closed government convoy, as the Kenyan There’s no way you can pass overland be- no way you can pass overland There’s Somalia at and war-ravaged tween Kenya aid a refugee part of unless you’re present but not having an Ethiopian exit stamp can bebut not having Ethiopia. reenter if you want to a problem Somalia no border post; you must already possess a already no border post; you must it stamped visa on arrival in and get Kenyan used quite to this, Nairobi. Immigration are it’s a risky route with few fuel stops. There’s fuel stops. There’s with few it’s a risky route trucks from the border to Isiolo for around trucks from the border to Marsabit). (or KSh500 KSh1000 from Moyale, lifts can be arranged with the be arranged from Moyale, lifts can through Ethiopia to Sudan, you’ll have to go to through Ethiopia to Sudan, you’ll have Sudanese visa. your to get to Addis Ababa at the border, get your jabs in advance and your jabs in advance get at the border, your passport. A with the certificate keep may also be required. vaccination cholera direction, in the other travelling If you’re Kenyan customs posts. A yellow-fever vac- A yellow-fever customs posts. Kenyan at to cross either border cination is required you fancy being vaccinated Unless Moyale. of town it’s a 2km walk to the Ethiopian and the Ethiopian walk to it’s a 2km town of lonelyplanet.com vehicle could also enter at Fort Banya, could also enter on vehicle Lake Turkana, but tip of the northeastern TRANSPORT fering aconvenient route tothe Tanzanian to justshort of Mwanzain Tanzania, of- allthewayfrom Kisumu The roadissealed NAIROBI/KISUMU TOMWANZA permit). entry (including insuranceanddocumentation allthe appropriatebut you’llneed vehicle withyourown vehicle, National Reserve Serengeti NationalPark andMasai Mara Theoretically it’spossibletocrossbetween TOMASAISERENGETI MARA is around16to18hours with stops. real luxurycoaches atKSh3000. Journeytime ices, withpricesrangingfromKSh2000 to and Akambabothhave reliable dailyserv- Nairobi toDaresSalaam.Scandinavia Express KenyanSeveral companieshave from buses NAIROBI TODARESSALAAM Nairobi or Arusha. NationalPark,Amboseli before headingto to break thejourney,forexampletovisit inNamangaifyouwant nice placestostay by publictransport.There are acoupleof nexttoeachright otherandregularly served and Tanzanian borderpostsatNamangaare do thisjourneyinstages, sincetheKenyan more forthereal luxury liners. KSh1000and between andKSh1200 toMoshi, KSh700is between andKSh1000 toArusha, morning. Theaverage costof services these leavesmall localbuses fromAccraRdevery Salaam (see below ) alsotravel viaArusha,and fromNairobi toDares Buses railway station. leave fromitsoffice compoundnearNairobi gage. Coach isagoodoption,asservices Easy thefts are commonthere sowatch yourbag- leave fromthehecticRiver Rdarea inNairobi; where youjoin oneof the regular shuttles. Arusha, buttheyjustbringyouintoNairobi fromtheairportto a direct shuttlebusservice International AirportinNairobi advertising There are often toutsatJomoKenyatta the comparative of sanity downtownNairobi. isbeingable toboardthebusin services these US$40 toMoshi.Thebigadvantage of both US$35toArusha and Nairobi, costingroughly fromcentral offer convenient shuttle services attheborder change of service at Namanga. takes aboutfourhours and neitherrequires a 346 It’s also easy, though less convenient,It’s alsoeasy,though to areFull-sized buses much cheaper, butmost Riverside Shuttle andDavanu Shuttle both ETN HR WY • ad THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING All buses take aboutAll buses 10to12hours andprices movies, hovering aroundtheKSh2500 mark. withdrinksand to full-blown luxuryservices ataroundKSh1000ing fromordinarybuses Akamba have atleastoncedaily,rang- buses end of themarket –Scandinavia Express and Kampala route. FromNairobi –andatthetop Various companiescover theNairobi to NAIROBI TOKAMPALA main buscompaniesthat Uganda.serve 340430) the bordertowns. you candothejourneyinstages viaeitherof Nairobi andKampala,nies runbetween or travelling viaKisumu.Numerousbuscompa- is Malaba, withBusiaanalternative ifyouare The mainborderpostforoverland travellers Uganda quently from Kisii. to Mwanza(KSh1700, fourhours) leave fre- from theTanzanian goingdirect side. Buses headtoMwanza four hours); localservices Tanzanian (KSh400, borderatIsebania/Sirari journey shouldtake roughly 12 hours. from aroundKSh1000 toKSh2000, andthe Scandinavia Express orAkamba;pricesrange waytogoiswith ably themostcomfortable shore of Victoria. Lake FromNairobi, prob- regular connections toKampala and Jinja. or KisumutoBusia, fromwhere there are Jinja and Tororo. until thelate afternoonmatatus toKampala, you get acrosstheborder,there are frequent walk ortake a at Malaba are about1kmapart,soyoucan regular toMalaba matatus from Cross Rd. bus fromthere toKampala. There are also from Nairobi toMalaba andadaily direct busesAkamba hasmorningandevening tardiness. general with afew extraallowancesfordelaysand asthebigger companies,less thesame KSh1000 andjourneytimesare more or Rd area ataround inNairobi. Prices start which departfromtheAccra basic services KSh1000. around toMbaleinUgandaalso hasaservice for include amealatthehalfwaypoint.Akamba From Kisumu, regular matatus serve the From Kisumu,regular serve matatus Buses and matatus alsorunfromNairobi andmatatus Buses The Ugandan andKenyan borderposts If youwanttodothejourneyinstages, Various othercompanieshave cheaper , Falcon andScandinavia Express are the boda-boda Akamba Akamba (bicycle taxi). Once (bicycletaxi). Mp pp104-5; (Map lonelyplanet.com % 020- TRANSPORT 347 020-3274100; www % 041-433061; www.mombasa % ( (Map pp100-1 ; pp100-1 (Map 020-600777; www.safarilink-kenya.com) 020-605745; www.airkenya.com) Am- % ( % ( The following airlines fly domestically: There are dozens of charter companies charter dozens of are There With all these airlines, be sure to book wellWith all these airlines, be sure Most of Kenya’s towns and cities are acces- towns and cities are Kenya’s Most of Amboseli, Chyulu Hills, Kiwayu, Downs, Masai Lamu, Lewa West. Tsavo Mara, Naivasha, Nanyuki, Samburu, .kenya-airways.com) Kisumu, Lamu, Malindi, Mombasa. .kenya-airways.com) Kisumu, Lamu, Malindi, airsafari.com) Amboseli, Ukunda, Lamu, Masai Mara, Mombasa, Tsavo. Malindi, is the only realistic way to get to some parts way to get is the only realistic affair, However, it’s an expensive Kenya. of and may only be worth considering if you group together. a can get Nairobi’s Wilson Airport – operating out of departure, especially those that connect withdeparture, flight. Otherwise,an international you may been reallocated. find that your seat has Airkenya Kenya Airways Mombasa Air Safari Safarilink AIRLINES CHARTER you time and a small plane saves Chartering also open up relatively inaccessible corners inaccessible corners also open up relatively the country. of AIR Airlines in Kenya Airways, Kenya Including the national carrier, varying of four main domestic operators flights within Kenya. sizes run scheduled Destinations served predominantly are around the coast and the popular national tourist the highest density of parks, where place. takes activity in advance (this is essential during the tourist highto season). You should also remember before flights 72 hours your return reconfirm GETTING AROUND AROUND GETTING array diverse is home to an incredibly Kenya by all be traversed can landscapes, which of you Whether transport modes. a variety of by highway the country criss-cross hire bus or car, or cruise seas the clear skies and placid by is Kenya around light or dhow, getting aircraft here. travelling certainlyhalf the fun of sible by local bus, though it’s usually necessary national transport to reach private to arrange a seasoned or aspir- If you’re parks and lodges. can a sturdy vehicle ing road warrior, hiring boseli, Kiwayu, Downs, Masai Lamu, Lewa Mara, Malindi, Samburu. Meru, Nanyuki, 013- % ( 020-210024; % 020-338927; www 031-5693911; www 031-5693911; % 021-3851530; cpt@afri 01373-826611; www Victoria Falls 01252-760000; www 01252-760000; % 020-77064700; www 020-77064700; % % % ( % (Map pp104-5 ; (UK (UK (UK 01728-861133; www.dragoman 01728-861133; GETTING AROUND •• Air (South Africa (Map pp104-5 ; % Nairobi Cape Town (UK

Most companies are based in the UK or Most companies are Dhows do sail between small Kenyan Dhows do sail between small Kenyan .acacia-africa.com) .gametrackersafaris.com; & Nginyo Towers, cnr Koinange Sts, Nairobi) Moktar Daddah Guerba Expeditions Gametrackers Flight Centre Explore Worldwide Dragoman African Routes tours of up to 13 weeks. up to of tours Acacia Expeditions Town and Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Trips Zimbabwe. Town and Victoria Falls, days to epic grand can last from just a few South Africa, but Flight Centre is a good South Africa, but Flight Centre is a good Cape in Nairobi, local operator with offices to Kenya. Nairobi bound for other places in Africa). Nairobi bound for other places in Africa). specific safaris that are for details of p91 See overland truck tour originating in Europe Europe tour originating in truck overland start Africa (many also in or other parts of It’s possible to get to Kenya as part of an an as part of to Kenya It’s possible to get mostly) and are best avoided. mostly) and are TOURS but many are involved in smuggling (fruit involved but many are an exit stamp. an is a tiny immigration post here, but there’s but there’s here, is a tiny immigration post no guarantee they’ll stamp your passport so to go back to Mombasa for you might have about sailings is at Shimoni ( p279 ). There ). There p279 ( about sailings is at Shimoni ing the journey and then you’ll have to to then you’ll have ing the journey and amount hard to pay a reasonable bargain to ask the best place for the trip. Perhaps all you’ll have to find a captain who’s mak- all you’ll have It’s theoretically possible to travel by dhow by possible to travel It’s theoretically is- and the Tanzanian between Mombasa and Zanzibar, of but first Pemba lands of Tanzania Tanzania operating on Lake Victoria, although there’s Lakeoperating on although Victoria, there’s restarting. servicesbeen of talk for years SEA & LAKE LAKE SEA & ferries no were there writing time of At the lonelyplanet.com .co.uk) .africanroutes.co.za) .guerba.co.uk) catravelco.com); catravelco.com); Lakhamshi House, Biashara St); [email protected]) 40172; .exploreworldwide.com) and Tanzanian ports along Lake Victoria, along Lake ports Victoria, and Tanzanian TRANSPORT commonly used togetcommonly used around theislandsin routes are very much Dhowsare stillinuse. Victoria,agoodnumberofLake traditional memorable experiences. And,unlike on Africancoastisoneofthe East Kenya’s most Sailing onatraditionalSwahili dhow along Dhow Kisumuand runs between Homa Bay. also AnoccasionalferryHoma Bay. service Point,near to Mfangano IslandfromMbita operatingare canoes motorised lar services futurebut fortheforeseeable theonlyregu- Victoria, againonLake transport willstart There speculationfor has been years thatferry BOAT particularly new or sophisticated. require adeposit,unlesstheirmachines are ally forlessthanKSh500 perday.Few places bikes inanincreasing numberof places,usu- for biking. mountain Park, nearNaivasha,isparticularlypopular the countryisflatter. Hell’s Gate National somewhatmorewestern highlands, where cover around80kmperdayinthehillsof the but canbelongandhard.Youexpectto from thorntrees are a major problem. wary of cyclingondirtroads as punctures increasingly commonalongtheroadside. Be boda-bodas, Manyyou passthrough. localpeopleoperate usually receive awarmwelcomeinanyvillages on from Nairobi toMombasa a bicycle. tosuicideattempt theroad tantamount matter howexperiencedyouare, itwouldbe youhearacarcoming.No the roadwhenever to cyclehere, doasthelocalsandget off year.every Butwhatever youdo,ifintend hardy visiting cyclists dotour thecountry totheroadsorclimate, plentyofused whoare forthose while itcanbetough not Loads of Kenyans get aroundbybicycle,and BICYCLE There Getting &Awaysections for details. therelevant andEldoret; Mombasa see Lamu, occasional scheduledfromDianiBeach, flights 602338) ( Excel Aviation 348 % A coupleof smallcharter-type airlinesrun It’s possibletohire roadandmountain The hillsof Kenya are notparticularlysteep Cycling iseasierinruralareas, andyou’ll 020-501210) ETN RUD • iyl AROUND••Bicycle GETTING are worth a look. ( sorepair shops are becoming % and 020-601764) Blue BirdAviation , Z-Boskovic Air Charters Z-Boskovic AirCharters ( % 020- more like than publictrans- dhowsafaris ing levels ofing levels comfort,convenience androad- companiesthatofferand state-owned vary- places where you’llbereliant on matatus. larly inthenorth,andthere are stillplentyof youget,further awayfromthecapital particu- thinoutthe and thewestern regions. Services coverage of theareas aroundNairobi, thecoast short-haul bus routes, with particularly good Kenya hasanextensive networkof long-and BUS them don’teven have sails. Larger dhowsare andsomeof allmotorised whenthere’scan bemadeeven nowind. fitted withoutboardmotors sothatprogress more have commercialboats,however, been becalmed untilthewindpicksupagain.The to get around,soit’squite commontoendup on thebeach onthe surrounding islands. board oncharcoal burners, barbecued orelse isfreshly andcooked caught space. on Seafood comes yousimplybeddownwherever there is aretrips outof more Lamu basic.Whennight sometripsareport. Although luxurious,the be aware thataKenyan bus tripisnotalways ally aterrifying experience). Youshould also which isusu- theoncomingtraffic, able tosee to dieinahead-on collision,plusyou’llbe atthefront(you’llbefirstroads), orright thrown aroundlike aragdollonKenyan yourself in,don’tsitattheback(you’ll be bus. school yourself onsomethingresembling abattered shorter localroutes, youmayfind however, toilets andreclining Onthe airline-styleseats. tional routes andoffer DVDmovies, drinks, coaches are saved forlong-haulandinterna- simplyduetoitssize. Thebest in amatatu, besafer inabusthanand you’llcertainly hours, are buses afairlysafe waytoget around of Kenyan roads. altogether bythediabolicalstate buses taking able. manytravellers However, are putoff are frequent, fastandoften quite comfort- thetrainorflying,andasaruleservices taking worthiness. They’re considerablycheaper than Iln, p279). Island, grove Funzi islandssouthof (see Mombasa archipelago ( the Lamu p302 ) andtheman- For the most part, these tripsoperateFor themostpart,these Whatever kindof conveyance youfind In general, ifyoutravel duringdaylight Buses areBuses operated byavarietyof private Most of thesmallerboatsrely onthewind lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT 020- 349 % (Map pp100-1 ; A few expats have off-road (trail) motor- off-road expats have A few (trail) Automobile Associations say yes as you just might call their bluff and cash. of yourself a bit save Bringing Your Own Vehicle bringing your own For information about . p344 see vehicle, sidering the lethal nature of the roads. of sidering the lethal nature Automobile Association of Kenya Nairobi). 723195; Hurlingham shopping centre, Bribes you travel stop you everywhere Police will than not ask likely and will more in Kenya, being prevent you for a small ‘donation’. To ask for an official always of, advantage taken – this goes in stopping a long way receipt corruption. Also, always ask for their police it against their ID card as number and check about. con artists running plenty of are there to go to court, always ever asked If you’re Mombasa and Mombasa–Lamu buy- routes, is at least a day in advance ing your ticket highly recommended. CAR & MOTORCYCLE into bring their own vehicles travellers Many trips and, expense overland as part of Kenya way to see the it’s a great notwithstanding, Otherwise,country at your own pace. there companies that can car-hire numerous are you anything from a small hatchback rent some of are rates to a 4WD, although hire the world. the highest in seen cycles, but they aren’t as a serious is a blessing con- which transport, means of long journey betweenlong journey At the towns. nearby seldom scale, you’ll the pay end of other for a standard journey, than KSh500 more services ‘executive’ but so-called on the over- night command can Nairobi–Mombasa route as almost as much up to KSh1500, prices of services.international the equivalent Reservations offices or ticket Most bus companies have at important stops along their routes, agents you can book a seat. trips For short where between towns reservations generally aren’t routes, necessary,popular longer but for Nairobi– especially the Nairobi–Kisumu, (ban- 020- (Metro Mom- % shiftas 020-217592) % 020-210711) Eldoret, 020-210711) Eldoret, 020-340430) Eldoret, 020-340430) Eldoret, % % KBS; Map pp104-5 ; pp104-5 KBS; Map 020-6766886) Busia, Eldoret, 020-6766886) Busia, Eldoret, ( 020-341250) Busia, Eldoret,

GETTING AROUND •• Car & Motorcycle (Map ; pp104–5 % ( 020-227650) Kilifi, Kisumu, Malindi, (Map ; pp104-5 % ( (Map pp104-5 ; 041-2496008) Kilifi, Kwale, Malindi, Mombasa, (Map p260 ) Kilifi, Lamu, Malindi, Mombasa, p260 (Map

The following are the main bus companies The following are There are a few security considerations securityconsiderations a few are There Kenya Bus ServicesKenya (KBS), the government basa; Mtwapa. Nairobi. Kakamega, Kisumu, Kitale, Nairobi. Kakamega, Kisumu, Kitale, 229707, booking office Kakamega, Kisumu, Mombasa, Nairobi, Nakuru, Voi. Kakamega, Kisumu, Mombasa, Nairobi, Nakuru,

fares starting around KSh100 for an hour- starting around KSh100 fares Costs Costs economical, with pretty buses are Kenyan Mombasa Metropolitan Bus Services Kenya Bus Services Falcon Falcon Eldoret Express Easy Coach Nairobi. Kakamega, Kisii, Kisumu, Kitale, Malaba, Coastline Safaris Busways operating in Kenya: operating Akamba litely refuse any offers of drinks or snacks drinks or snacks of any offers refuse litely from strangers. before you travel. Another possible risk is Another possible risk is you travel. before food and drink: it is best to po- drugged have been prone to attacks by have things out locally check dits) in the past; Some routes, most notablySome routes, the roads from to Lamu and Isiolo to Marsabit, Malindi to think about when taking a bus in Kenya. to think about when taking a bus in Kenya. not perfect, safety record. Easy is an- Coach record. safety not perfect, firm quickly establishing a solidother private and comfort. for efficiencyreputation the private companies, Akamba has the most companies, Akamba the private but network, and has a good, comprehensive be slower than those of the private compa- the private be slower than those of Of for this reason. probably safer nies, but are also offers long-haul services long-haul also offers to most major Its busestowns around the country. to tend bus line, runs the local busesbus line, runs the local and in Nairobi you’ll even hear the regular Muslim call to Muslim call to you’ll even the regular hear loud speaker the over prayer broadcast neys shouting the odds for the benefit of their of the odds for the benefit neys shouting On certain passengers. coastal busesfellow unknown for roving preachers, herbalists and preachers, roving unknown for jour- else anyone just about to spend entire the most restful experience – unlike matatus, – unlike experience restful the most services board most can actually hawkers to not in your face, and it’s wares thrust their lonelyplanet.com Kakamega, Kericho, Kisii, Kisumu, Kitale, Machakos, Namanga. Mombasa, Nairobi, Mombasa, Nairobi. Mombasa, Kakamega, Kisii, Kisumu, Kitale, Malaba, Mombasa, Nairobi. Kakamega, Kisii, Kisumu, Kitale, Malaba, Mombasa, TRANSPORT triangle and an extinguisher. be finedbythepolice fornothaving afire spares.bring several Alsonote thatyoucan most commondisaster youcanexpect,so breakages Belt are need. might probably the are very unlikely tohave littlepartyou every if it’sanoldermodel,localsuppliers inKenya what spare partsare likely to be available. Even vehicle tocheck withthemneeds inadvance barrels from roadside vendors. and youmayendupbuyingsupplies outof areas, where are petrolstations often scarce creep pricesinremote uptofrighteningly high generally butcan loweroutsidethecapital, Kenya are isn’tanexception.Rates certainly Fuel pricesare theworldover, ontherise and Fuel &SpareParts to know)isn’tprinted onthe card itself. test (somethingcar-hire companiesmaywant counterfoil, yourdriving asthedate youpassed British photocardlicence,besure tobringthe inKenya,sary Ifyouhave butcan beuseful. a An international driving licenceisnotneces- Driving Licence 350 ROAD DISTANCES(KM) Voi Namanga Nakuru Mombasa Meru Lodwar Kisumu Kericho Kakamega Isiolo Embu Nairobi Malindi Kitale Nyeri Nanyuki Anyone whoisplanningtobringtheir own ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING 1087 6 779 661 440 154 138 610 569 218 969 565 325 508 482 487 811 95 Busia 314 691 154 184 657 618 460 288 525 395 475 131 511 131 88 Embu 524 735 877 759 244 140 467 272 601 351 431 481 56 84 Isiolo 596 395 130 109 394 237 999 477 723 420 399 881 50 Kakamega 469 522 107 869 230 264 347 593 290 269 751 80 Kericho 548 443 158 368 949 427 673 370 349 831 211 Kisumu 563 285 867 380 709 985 223 463 406 385 Kitale 1120 1141 960 601 651 442 599 729 Lodwar the country, but it does give youfreedomthe country,butitdoes of national parks)isanexpensive wayof seeing Hiring avehicle totourKenya (oratleastthe Hire pay fora vehicle, the better condition itwill IDsuchacceptable as a passport. driving foratleast two years. Youwillalsoneed convictions, andmost require youtohave been fer alicencewithnoendorsements orcriminal usually appliesforhirers. Somecompaniespre- damage to the vehicle. accident youwillbepersonally liable forany if youignore thisproscriptionandhave an inthenationalparks, and including those will letyoudrive 2WDvehicles ondirtroads, 4WD vehicle. Noneof thecar- hire companies a towns,you’llneed the mainroutes between with camping safari all meals. cost more thanyou’dpayforanorganised numberof people,it’slikelya sufficient to unless you’recountry. However, sharingwith of getting tothemore remote partsof the movement andissometimestheonlyway 430 118 864 605 762 795 752 281 A minimumage of 23and25years between Unless you’re justplanningontravelling on It’s generally thatthemore true tosay you Malindi 468 746 240 588 136 259 78 Meru 409 160 644 634 677 521 Mombasa 180 157 150 329 190 Nairobi 337 486 175 151 Nakuru 249 330 380 Namanga lonelyplanet.com 519 58 Nanyuki 476 Nyeri TRANSPORT 351 Central Rent-a-Car, comes highly which In addition, having someone in the car whoIn addition, having HIRE AGENCIES HIRE AGENCIES some interna- are the market At the top end of airport and town tional companies. Most have and Mombasa. offices in Nairobi is probably the by readers, recommended Kenyan driving conditions can be absolutely driving conditions can be absolutely Kenyan Most driv- areas. priceless, especially in remote the car at night so you will also look after ers it, and they’ll often to worry about don’t have you fulfil their way to help out of go massively plans. On the other hand, it will your travel the one less seat in the car, reducing free leave sharing the cost people you can have number of place. first in the & UGANDA DRIVING TO TANZANIA com- expensive) (and more Only the bigger ad- large are for this, and there panies cater or Avis, Hertz With Budget, ditional charges. for them dollars hundred expect to pay a few to sort out all the documentation, insurance, permits etc. KSh10,000 between and Mombasa Nairobi KSh10,000 between Mombasa KSh5000 and about and Malindi. Rates Driver a may sound like While hiring a ‘chauffeur’ in good idea a very luxury, it can actually be reasons. for both financial and safety Kenya few for a a driver Most companies will provide thousand shillings per day – the big advantage by the compa- this is that the car is covered of to pay any of ny’s insurance, so you don’t have for any and won’t be liable the various waivers an accident (thoughexcess in the case tyres, of your responsibility). windows etc remain speaks Swahili, knows the roads and is used to Deposits Deposits deposit re- in the wide variation a There’s as It can be as much vehicles. on hired quired plus whatever charges the total hire estimated waiver. on the collision damage the excess is signed travellers this with cash, You can cover card. credit or (returnable) cheques Drop-Off Rates one place and in a vehicle If you want to hire will be additional drop it off in another there These vary depending on the vehicle, charges. and drop-off the company and the pick-up locations. In most cases, count on paying deliver a replacement vehicle vehicle a replacement deliver GETTING AROUND •• Car & Motorcycle may As a final sting in the tail, you’ll be charged a final sting in the tail, you’ll be charged As Even if you have collision and theft in- if you have Even Vehicles are usually hired with either an usually hired are Vehicles The other factor to consider is what the to consider is what The other factor you end up paying for will also have VAT on VAT you end up paying for will also have the top. And a final warning: always return petrol; if you don’t, with a full tank of vehicle you twice the going the company will charge fill up. to rate 16% value added tax (VAT) on top of the total on top of 16% value added tax (VAT) that Any repairs the vehicle. hiring cost of windscreens and loss of the tool kit are always the tool kit are and loss of windscreens responsibility. hirer’s the another KSh1000 to KSh2000 per day for an to KSh2000 another KSh1000 damaged that tyres, Note excess loss waiver. hicle; always check this before signing. You this before hicle; always check the excess to zero by paying can usually reduce company) if something happens to the ve- surance, you’ll still be liable for an excess of for an excess of surance, you’ll still be liable (depending on the to KSh150,000 KSh2500 Otherwise you’ll be responsible for the full Otherwise you’ll be responsible or stolen. if it’s damaged vehicle the value of for insurance against collision damage and for insurance against collision damage a theft. It would be financial suicide to hire insurance. without both kinds of car in Kenya without insurance, with the option of pay- without insurance, with the option of per day to KSh2000 ing around KSh1000 or with unlimited kilometres, which is often is often which kilometres, or with unlimited usually quoted Rates are the best way to go. allowance of 100km to 200km per day (you’ll allowance of over), for every kilometre pay an extra fee than a few days. few than a 4WD. As elsewhere in the world, rates come in the world, rates elsewhere 4WD. As the car for more down rapidly if you take be lucky to pay less than KSh7500 per day for KSh7500 be lucky to pay less than per day for a small a saloon car, or KSh10,000 Starting rates for hire almost always sound Starting for hire rates once you factor in mile- but reasonable, very you’ll insurance and the various types of age COSTS COSTS and back on the road yourself, and then try and back on the road yourself, a refund. to claim companies you’ll have to get the vehicle fixed fixed the vehicle get to companies you’ll have companies the of for recovery arrangements and make at their expense, but with most other vehicle company will do for you (if anything) if you do for you (if anything) company will hire The major a serious breakdown. have be in. The larger companies are usually in a usually in are companies The larger be in. their fleet to keep position financial in better from, be sure Whoever you hire good order. (including the the tyres the brakes, to check lights and the wipers the windscreen spare), set off. you before lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT .com) -safari.com; DianiPlaza, DianiBeach) -safari.com; advance for Kenya; youmayberequired to Liability insurance isnotalwaysavailable in It’s besttoarrange cover before you leave. be amind-numbingly idioticthingtodo. Driving inKenya without insurance would Let’s GoTravel Hertz Tours Fredlink Rent-a-Car Central Budget Avis .adventureupgradesafaris.co.ke) UpgradeSafaris Adventure hire companies: for informationabout motorcycle safaris. and alsoarranges See motorcycle safaris. p91 out 350cctrailbikes andYamaha scooters, Fredlink Tours Beach. rentsand Bamburi cycles, scooters andquadsatDianiBeach firms. partner reliable carhire atfavourable rates through GoTravel,tion isLet’s which organises companies listed here. excep- Onenotable guarantees thatyouwouldwithproperhire their vehicles, you’llhave though few of the roads. Kenya’s theworstmean 4WDsfortackling of ofSafaris alsohasagoodfleet lean-and- Adventure Upgrade a goodback-upservice. of fleet fairlynewvehiclesmaintained and best of thelocalfirms.Thehave awell- 352 www.carhirekenya.com) Insurance On thecoast,itispossibletohire motor- companieswillalsohireMost safari out The followingare localandinternational tourism scene. driver, andknowledgeableaboutKenya’s reliable, avery safe andconscientious as heisknowntohisfriends,extremely togo.in thecountrythatyoulike Chege, you upinNairobi,and drive youanywhere fordable andnegotiableprice,hecanpick Foran extremely af- tion ofthisguidebook. helped usauthorsresearch thelatest edi- Mwangi contact of alocalKikuyu, throughtheeyesIf youwanttoseeKenya YOUR BESTKIKUYUFRIEND Mp pp104-5; (Map ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING ( % Mp pp104-5; (Map 020-248777; www.hertz.com)

( % ( ( % % 0721942523, 0714001446) % 020-340331; www.letsgosafari.com) 040-3202647; www.motorbike Mp pp104-5; (Map % 020-316061; www.avis.com) 2-251 www.budget 020-223581; ( % Leonard Chege 020-228725; www % 020-222888; , who a vehicle willgive youabitter taste of Kenyan time. Also keep inmindthatbuyingor selling to keep thecarrunningforadecentlengthof bit of groundresearch intend ifyouseriously another matter, require andcertainly afair your vehicle generally road-legalare quite calities of registering, andkeeping taxing and thecoastresorts. thepracti- However, expat-rich areas such astheNairobisuburbs in Kenya –justlookatpublic noticeboardsin possibletobuyacarwhenyou’reIt’s certainly Purchase with secure parking if possible. inahotel it’salwaysworthstaying that said, will costyouafew shillings.With thousands andgettingwheel-clamped, yourvehicle back If youdon’tget apermityou’re liabletobe for aroundKSh100, validanywhere intown. Attendants issueone-dayparkingpermits andothermaintowns. Nairobi, Mombasa ally free, butthere’s apay-parkingsystem in In smalltownsandvillages parkingisusu- Parking details. full offer somekindof insurance;see p351 for uninsured. travelling overland, youwilleffectively be otherwise borders someatcertain ifyouenterpurchase much safer in a 4WD. can benegotiated ina2WD vehicle, you’re driving after somedirtroads rain.Although (when therattling stops),andbecareful when increasing speed untilyoufind a suitable fari vehicles. Keep down,slowly yourspeed overuseshaking corrugationsthrough bysa- murram flow due totheconstant of traffic. Nairobi–Malaba (A104)isbadlyworn road are particularlypoor. Themain Mombasa– roads inthenorthandeastof thecountry vehicle isbigger inanygiven situation.The lane, which is usuallyoccupiedbywhichever the edges, reducing thecarriageway toasingle pathways. Many roadsare severely erodedat todirttracksandsteep rocky smooth highways Road conditionsvarywidely inKenya, fromflat Road Conditions and perhapsabit of luck. have plentyof of time,amountain patience bureaucracy atitsfinest,sobesure thatyou Most car-hire agencies inKenya always Roads innationalparksare allmadeof (dirt)andhave erodedinto bone- lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT 353 (bicycle taxis) are common in common in (bicycle taxis) are On the other side of the wheel, foreign the wheel, foreign On the other side of Although it’s risky, many locals have no risky, many locals have Although it’s into the national hoping to hitch If you’re Note that foreign-registered vehicles with vehicles that foreign-registered Note Boda-boda Boda-boda Boda-bodas harder to find, standard taxis are where areas in smaller towns and cities and also operate on their expensive safari are slimmer than safari are on their expensive a starving stick insect, frankly it and quite further seems rude to ask. You’ll get pretty companions in asking around for travel towns. gateway the Nairobi or any of all the time by will be approached drivers rides, and demanding free hitchers Kenyan is cer- Maasai giving a lift to a carload of cultural experience. tainly a memorable LOCAL TRANSPORT Boat boat service use is in regular The only local between and the mainland the Likoni ferry Mombasa runs throughout island, which the day and night for foot passengers and is free small toll). pay a (vehicles are taking a small but potentially serious serious taking a small but potentially are let some- and in pairs to travel risk; it’s safer to go. planning you are one know where drivers. drunken of Also beware will know so people but to hitch, choice try to flag down doing if you what you’re The traditional thumb signal will prob- cars. locals use but a palm- ably be understood, to stop. Many cars get to downwards wave to- expect a contribution drivers Kenyan gift from for- wards petrol or some kind of it clear from the so make eign passengers, ride. free expecting a outset if you are coming of on! Your chances parks, dream seat who don’t tourists with a spare across along stranger mind taking a freeloading clists. Drunk driving is also very common, common, very is also Drunk driving clists. locals. as much expats as among than six people a seating more capacity of national parks into Kenyan not allowed are and reserves; but should be fine, Jeeps and other campervansVW Kombis may have problems. HITCHING in any safe never entirely is Hitchhiking it. recommend country, and we don’t they understand should who hitch Travellers (white person)!’ person)!’ (white mzungu GETTING AROUND •• Hitching

Certain routes have a reputation for ban- Certain a reputation have routes

Kenyans habitually drive on the wrong on the wrong habitually drive Kenyans Acacia thorns are a common problem if problem a common Acacia thorns are On all roads, be very careful of pedestrians of careful On all roads, be very and the roads are full of pedestrians and cy- full of and the roads are the driver to get back into their own lane. into their own lane. back to get the driver at nightNever unless you absolutely drive headlights adequate have cars to, as few have flashing your lights at the vehicle hurtling hurtling flashing your lights at the vehicle be enoughtowards you should to persuade side of the road whenever they seeside of a pothole, in the traffic – an animal or simply a break and should never be taken at face value. at and should never be taken or ‘Let’s play chicken with that elephant’, with that elephant’, or ‘Let’s play chicken speed. Indicators, lights,speed. horns and hand sig- Indicators, to nals can mean anything from ‘I’m about to ‘Hello overtake’ practices here are some of the worst in the the worst some of are practices here out at breakneck carried world and all are You’ll need your wits about you if you’re you’re about you if You’ll need your wits Driving going to tackle driving in Kenya. Road Rules Road Rules few years, but you’re still advised still to seek but you’re local years, few these routes. using any of advice before road, which is still essentially road, which limits to off and the dirt track from Amboseli travellers, National Park, West to Tsavo National Park to join a con- usually required you’re where and voy. The roads from Isiolo to Marsabit to Lamu im- have Moyale and from Malindi security-wise considerably in the last proved ditry, particularly the Garsen–Garissa–Thika bush, so always carry drinking water, emer- water, bush, so always carry drinking fuel. spare food and, if possible, gency you’re driving in remote areas, as they’ll pierce areas, driving in remote you’re The slightest break- even the toughest tyres. in the stranded for hours you down can leave or lone chickens with a death wish. with a or lone chickens Animals are another major hazard in rural another major Animals are goats and cattle herds of be it monkeys, areas, and cyclists – you don’t want to contribute want to contribute and cyclists – you don’t roads. on Kenya’s to the death toll any more vehicles are a constant threat. a are vehicles your vehicle or cause you to loseyour vehicle control, and from other manoeuvres sudden avoidance in a crash. On the worse roads, potholes are a the worse are roads, potholes in a crash. On into them can damage driving dual problem: dangerous roads in Kenya are probably the probably are in Kenya roads dangerous drivers allow well-maintained ones, which serious to go fast enough damage to do really defensively is essential. the most Ironically, defensively Road Hazards Hazards Road is sim- roads on Kenyan hazard The biggest on them, and driving vehicles ply the other lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT neys. The vehicles themselves can beany- regularly forbothlocalandintercity jour- phenomenon, and mostKenyans them use but the itintoacultural has raised matatu Derby. Kenya drivers jockeying forpositionlike it’sthe ofthough course congestion stops never shunttobethemost likelyslight accident, roadsare fora buses, usuallybusyenough KSh50 forlonger routes inNairobi. As with Fares ataroundKSh10 start andmayreach vices covering major every roadandsuburb. sized cityortownwillhave plentyof ser- around forlocalpeople,andanyreasonably areLocal matatus themainmeansof getting safety israrely a concern. serious Airport andKaren. density, Dueto traffic alsoruntoareas such asKenyatta services KSh40. Metro Shuttle andprivate CityHopper hourslight andgenerally costnomore than the suburbsandoutlyingareas duringday- nicipal runbyKBS.Routes cover bus service, Nairobi istheonlycitywithaneffective mu- Bus around 20or so shillings. ers intouristareas. Ashortrideshould cost also doubleastouts,guidesanddrugdeal- eration onthecoast,where thebicycleboys such asKisumu.There isaparticularprolif- 354 Matatu Minibus transport isnotuniquetoKenya, the matatualive andwell? UrDog’.Whatbetter MyCat thespiritof –IKill if slightlybaffling‘UKick sentiment tokeep Jihad andYouAre LonelyWhenYouAre Dead…Ourfavourite, though,hastobethedelightful small, thematatunamesare, ifanything,more provocative. LookoutforSaddam,BloodFist, totravelnow justaslikely inabuscalledSafety Bars,GodNever Fails orRise’n’Shine. industry:whilethere areimage ofthetransport stillplentyofBeyoncésandHomeboyz, you’re a few orpaintingsintherear stickers token window.Even thenamesreflect thetoned-down to berepainted. stripe downthesidedisplayingroute, vehicle numberandcapacity,requiring manymatatus tions, however, noiselimitsare strict enforced,andevery publicconveyance musthave ayellow andblastingoutappropriatein Kenya, tuneageonmega-decibelstereos. oftheregula- As part graffitireflecting whatevermoving daubedwithcolourful worksofstreet wascurrently art, hip such uniquecharabancsinthefirstplace. they’ve alsohadaprofoundeffect ontheiraestheticqualities,thevery them thingthatmakes The trafficlawsimplemented in2003were onsafety notjustdesignedtoimpact inmatatus– HAKUNA MATATU? ETN RUD • oa rnpr AROUND••LocalTransport GETTING In Mombasa,however, hard-core isalive andwell,whilethedecorationsare relatively kept andmostNissansareNairobi matatushave nowplainwhite thechangetoheart, taken with thebig20-seater onesonlocalNairobiroutes,Matatus, particularly frequently usedtobe stunned atthedifference. In2003thethen business, butanyone revisiting Kenya willbe ous driving,overcrowding andgeneral shady name ‘Nissans’ to matatus). (manylocalpeoplepreferminibuses the Themostcommonarebuses. white Nissan mini- with acabonthebacktobig20-seater thing fromdilapidated Peugeot 504pick-ups or safe time. awaketo stay beyond whatisareasonable miraa ing aroadblock.Many drivers stillalsochew happy onlytobuckle upwhenapproach- quite them,andpassengers seem between and willscrambleextrabodiesin andout thelocationsofmemorise policecheckpoints ondownhillstretches,extra speed conductors most drivers have worked outhowtogain hasn’t taken operators longtofindloopholes: and represent animprovement of sorts,butit intoenforce brought the rules. Frequent policechecks have alsobeen tocraminasmany30people.which used and a14-person capacityappliestovehicles route numbers mustbeclearlydisplayed must wearclearlyidentifiablered shirts, governors,belts and80km/hspeed drivers sults. Matatus mustnowbefitted withseat- of re-set laws,ensuringamazingly speedy the roadsuntiltheycompliedwithanew transport minister from bannedallmatatus Matatus tobenotoriousfordanger- used The changes are immediately noticeable (leafyshootschewed as astimulant) lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT 355 First class consists of two-berth compart- two-berth class consists of First There are three classes on Kenyan trains, trains, classes on Kenyan three are There Passengers in 1st class on the Mombasa Passengers lock your compartment from the inside before lock your compartment from the inside before you go to sleep. Third class is seats only and problem. real security can be a to a meal typically consisting treated line are served curries or roast chicken stews, with of is included; and coffee Tea rice and vegetables. but only 1st and 2nd class can be recom- US$65 in 1st class, US$54 are mended. Fares that Note in 2nd, including bed and breakfast. by gender. divided up are passengers drinking wardrobe, ments with a washbasin, and a drinks service.water Second class con- compartments with plainer, four-berth sists of No com- drinking water. and a washbasin so from the outside, partment can be locked lying any valuables not to leave remember You any reason. it for around if you leave might want to padlock your rucksack to some- Always thing during dinner and breakfast. parks and remote areas like Lake Turkana, like areas parks and remote the day-to-day many of and they can sidestep p65 independently. See travelling hassles of the many options on for a full run-down of in Kenya. offer TRAIN Railway once the main was The Uganda in Easttrade artery Africa, but these days the network has dwindled to two main routes, Nairobi–Kisumu and Nairobi–Mombasa. however, the only research, At the time of train was running, and Nairobi–Mombasa the marks over question a few remain there Indeed, this route. of comfort and reliability with a night service the around 13 hours, of Nairobi–Mombasa slower and train is much or road. than going by air frequent less and cities have these distinctive motorised these distinctive have and cities minitaxis. highest The is in concentration Mombasa, also in Nairobi, but they’re Malindi, and Diani Beach; WatamuMachakos a has motorised less sophisticated rick- handful of be at but should negotiable, are shaws. Fares taxi less than the equivalent rate least KSh100 (you wouldn’t want to take journey for a short long one!). them on a SAFARIS provides in Kenya While public transport betweentowns ample options for moving safariand cities, an organised is the best way national into and around Kenya’s getting of GETTING AROUND •• Safaris

Peugeots take less time to reach their desti- less time to reach take Peugeots Wherever you go, remember that most most that you go, remember Wherever Apart from in the remote northern areas, areas, northern remote from in the Apart Tuk-Tuk Tuk-Tuk an incongruous sight outside They are towns but several Kenyan Southeast Asia, arguing with your cabbie over the fare. with your cabbie over arguing drivers who adhere to them), it’s advisable that who adhere drivers prior to setting out. This on the fare you agree will inevitably you the time and trouble of save in Kenya actually have functioning meters (or meters functioning actually have in Kenya from taxi ranks on the street, but some com- from taxi ranks on the street, phone bookings and most panies will take taxis Since few can order you a ride. hotels for short journeys. Most people pick up cabs and Mombasa, where taking a taxiand Mombasa, at night where is invariably ne- are virtually mandatory. Fares to KSh300 gotiable and start around KSh200 lages, and you’ll find cabs on virtually every cabs on virtually every and you’ll find lages, cities, especially in Nairobi corner in the larger Even the smallest Kenyan towns generally towns generally the smallest Kenyan Even old taxi for easy at least one banged-up have vil- even or remoter access to outlying areas destinations mostly in the north and west of destinations mostly in the north and west of the country. Taxi panies have offices Accra, Cross around the panies have and servein Nairobi, Rds area and River go from point to point without stopping, and com- Many expensive. slightly more so are nations than matatus as they fill quicker and nations than matatus as they fill quicker (hence the local name) that take seven take (hence the local name) that to nine when full. and leave passengers same speed and safety regulations. The ve- same speed regulations. and safety 505 station wagons usually Peugeot hicles are Shared Taxi (Peugeot) Shared Taxi (Peugeot) a good alternative taxis are Peugeot Shared not subject to the to matatus, though they’re ‘death seat’ next to the matatu driver. Play ‘death seat’ to the matatu next driver. in the middle seats and sit it safe away from the window. under no circumstancessit in the should you under no when full and the fares are fixed. It’s un- fixed. are the fares when full and than money more you will be charged likely other passengers. lifts on trucks, you can almost always find you can almost always lifts on trucks, a matatu or further going to the next town day. in the as it’s not too late afield, so long at the around among the drivers Simply ask local matatu leave stand Matatus or ‘stage’. lonelyplanet.com matatu crashes are head-on collisions – head-on collisions – matatu crashes are where you’ll rely on occasional buses on occasional or paid rely you’ll where TRANSPORT show upinperson ratherthantryingtocall. andit’srecommendedMombasa, thatyou and canbedelivered to your compartment. isavailablebeer atalltimesinthediningcar accepting thatKSh1500 bottleof wine. Cold holic drinksare not,soaskthepricebefore sodas (soft drinks),bottledwater andalco- 356 © LonelyPlanetPublications There are inNairobi bookingoffices and ETN RUD • ri AROUND••Train GETTING t departure. to bers are posted upabout 30minutes prior Note thatcompartmentandberthnum- just three ineitherdirection. timesweekly run ficient, butremember services thatthese available. Twotothree daysisusuallysuf- there’class, otherwise You mustbookinadvancefor1stand2nd ll probably benoberths lonelyplanet.com HEALTH 357 (IAMAT; (IAMAT;

. International Royal Geographical © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © . Its website can help travellers help travellers can website . Its (www.wildernessmedicaltraining.co.uk)

How do you go about getting the best pos- getting How do you go about Travellers can register with the with can register Travellers It’s tempting to leave all the preparations all the preparations leave to It’s tempting If you are bringing medications with you, If you are or will reimburse you later for overseas health for overseas you later or will reimburse expect payment (many doctors expenditures that your travel in cash). It’s vital to ensure transport the emergency insurance will cover you to a hospital in a major to get required medical facilities elsewhere city, to better in Africa, or all the way home, by air and Society physician describing all medical conditions names, and medications, including generic or If carrying syringes is also a good idea. a physician’s letter to have needles be sure medical necessity. documenting their sible medical help? It’s difficultsay to – it your illness depends on the severityreally of local help. If of or injury and the availability seriousanother potentially ) or p361 malaria ( disease seek is suspected, help as soon medical or begin self-medicatingas possible if you are track. beaten the off INSURANCE insurance Find out in advance whether your to providers payments directly plan will make tory for the African countries that require that require tory for the African countries vaccination upon entry, yellow fever of proof but it’s a good idea to includes Kenya, which you travel. carry it anyway wherever Association for Medical Advice to Travellers www.iamat.org) recognised find a doctor who has completed remote training. Those heading off to very (con- course to do a first-aid might like areas tact Ambulance) St John’s the Red Cross or course, medicine first-aid a remote or attend by the as that offered such clearly carry them in their original containers, from your letter labelled. A signed and dated to the last minute – don’t! Many vaccines vaccines – don’t! Many to the last minute effect you’ve until two weeksdon’t take after been immunised, four to so visit a doctor your Ask departure. eight weeks before Certificatedoctor for an International of (known in some countries as Vaccination will list all the the yellow booklet), which This is manda- received. vaccinations you’ve Dr Caroline Evans

Before You Go Before 357 Insurance Recommended Vaccinations Medical Checklist Resources Internet Reading Further In Transit 358 (DVT) Thrombosis Deep Vein Jet Lag & Motion Sickness In Kenya 357 Care & Cost of Health Availability Diseases Infectious 358 359 Diarrhoea Traveller’s 358 Environmental Hazards 359 359 358 Traditional Medicine 359 359 363 364 359 365 If you stay up-to-date with your vacci- If you stay up-to-date nations and take some basic preventive some basic preventive nations and take necessary vaccinations ( p358 ). prescription with you); get a first-aid and and a first-aid with you); get prescription ); and arrange p358 (seemedical kit together sure. You should also organise spare con- spare You should also organise sure. tact lenses and glasses your optical (and take doctor if you use regular medication or have medication or have doctor if you use regular as high illness, such blood pres- any chronic larly for preexisting illnesses, you a will save larly for preexisting a Before a long trip, get trouble later. lot of from your dentist, and from your check-up A little planning before departure, particu- departure, A little planning before BEFORE YOU GO BEFORE YOU GO dents – vehicles are rarely well maintained, well maintained, rarely are dents – vehicles poorly lit, and potholed and the roads are is common. drink-driving the most likely reason for needing medical for needing medical reason the most likely road acci- of is as a result help in Kenya bite rather than an exotic disease. When it rather than an exotic disease.bite When it comes to injuries (as opposed to illness), get a bout of diarrhoea (in fact, you should diarrhoea (in fact, you should a bout of get mosquito bank on it), a cold or an infected impressive selection of tropical and other tropical and other selection of impressive to likely more much diseases, but you’re measures, you’d be pretty unlucky to suc- you’d be pretty measures, the health hazards covered cumb to most of Africa certainly has an in this chapter.

CONTENTS Health HEALTH

list of items youshould consider bringing: ofcase minorillnessorinjury.Followingisa first-aid inthe kitwithyou,tohelpyourself It isavery goodideatocarryamedicaland MEDICAL CHECKLIST low fever (see p363 ). tobevaccinated againstyel- also advisable diphtheria,polioandmeasles.Itis tetanus, ingitis, rabies andtyphoid, andboosters for hepatitis A,B,meningococcalmen- vaccinations are recommended forKenya: and Prevention occur. do canbesevere,eases andoutbreaks of them your travel. of dis- Theconsequences these cover iscomplete iswhenyouare planning time toensure thatallroutine vaccination B, regardless of theirdestination.Agreat rubella andpolio, as wellforhepatitis for diphtheria,tetanus, measles,mumps, recommends thatalltravellers becovered The RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS for sistance local people. intoprovidinggoes grass-rootsmedicalas- ties. Moneypaidbymembers forthisservice ambulance transfers medicalfacili- between cal emergencies inKenya, aswellair inmedi- service vides anairevacuation Foundation Research embassy or consulate. at yourhotel. Inanemergency, your contact the nearest orclinic,youcanask hospital beable tohelplocatesurance companymight carefully. medicalhelp,yourin- Ifyouneed insurance covers this,socheck thecontract with amedicalattendant Notall ifnecessary. 358

Acetaminophen (paracetamol) (paracetamol) Acetaminophen or aspirin Antihistamines (forhayfever Antihistamines andaller- drugs(eg Antidiarrhoeal loperamide) Antibiotics (prescription only),egcip- Antibacterial ointment(egBactroban) Adhesive orpapertape for altitude (Diamox) Acetazolamide gic reactions) (Utinor) rofloxacin (Ciproxin) ornorfloxacin only) for cutsandabrasions (prescription sickness (prescription only) Membership of the According tothe World HealthOrganization EOEYUG • RcmeddVciain VaccinationsBEFORE YOUGO••Recommended

(www.cdc.gov)

(AMREF; www.amref.org) Centers forDiseaseControl Centers African Medical and Medical African , thefollowing

(www.who.int/en/) pro-

health recommendations, updated daily,

World Health Organization publishes asu- Lonely Planetwebsite the internet.is Agoodplacetostart There is awealthof travel health adviceon INTERNET RESOURCES prick. finger can identifymalariainthebloodfroma kitthat aself-diagnostic consider taking where malaria isaproblem –particularlyanarea If youare travelling anarea through where FURTHER READING USA UK Canada Australia ture, ifone is available: ernment’s travel healthwebsite before depar- .gov) forDiseaseControlandPrevention Centers health.com) websites include able free atwww.who.int/ith/. Otheruseful Health, perb bookcalled

Thermometer Syringes, sterileandfluidsiftrav- needles Sunscreen Steroid cream orhydrocortisonecream Scissors, safety pins,tweezers Pocket knife Permethrin-containing sprayfor insect Oral rehydration salts (forwaterIodine tablets purification) repellent DEET,for Insect containing the Bandages, gauze,gauzerolls Antimalaria pills Anti-inflammatory drugs (eg ibuprofen)

It’s alsoagoodideatoconsultyourgov- www.nhs.uk/Healthcareabroad elling toremote areas (for allergic rashes) clothing, tents and bed nets skin Dawood How toStay Healthy Abroad Healthy Travel Africa Healthy Travel and Travel Medicine A Comprehensive Guide toWilderness www.cdc.gov/travel/ and www.hc-sc.gc.ca/english/index.html falciparum which annuallyandavail- is revised www.smartraveller.gov.au Fit forTravel , which provides complete travel MD Travel Health MD Travel malariapredominates – by Jane Wilson-Howarth International Travel and

(www.lonelyplanet.com) (www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk) byEric A Weiss by Isabelle by Isabelle Young lonelyplanet.com (www.mdtravel

by Richard (www.cdc

. The . HEALTH 359 Blood Care Foundation is a useful source of safe, safe, is a useful source of There is a high risk of contracting HIV contracting HIV is a high risk of There Most drugs can be purchased over the the drugs can be purchased over Most By and large, public hospitals in Kenya public hospitals in Kenya By and large, often patchy off the beaten track, even in even track, in beaten the off patchy often freshwater snail. The flukes are carried in- are snail. The flukes freshwater then sheds them into side the snail, which The parasites or still water. slow-moving human skin as people paddle or penetrate to the bladder or swim and then migrate passed out via stool or urine bowel. They are need. Condoms bought in Kenya might not need. Condoms bought in Kenya the same quality as in Europe, North be of America or Australia, and they might have stored. incorrectly been a blood blood if you receive from infected The transfusion in Kenya. (www.bloodcare.org.uk) INFECTIOUS DISEASES pre- list but, as we say,It’s a formidable a few long way… cautions go a Bilharzia (Schistosomiasis) (minute This disease by flukes is spread carried by a species of worms) that are clinics are more expensive but tend to have to have but tend expensive more clinics are advanced drugs and equipment and more medical staff. trained better drugs Many without a prescription. counter might they be ineffective; for sale in Kenya been or might not have might be counterfeit in the right The most conditions. stored are drugs counterfeit common examples of antibiotics, malaria tablets and expensive avail- Most drugs are as ciprofloxacin. such will be villages able in Nairobi, but remote paracetamol tablets. a couple of lucky to have that you bring It is strongly recommended Also, the avail- all medication from home. ability and efficacy condoms cannot be of upon – bring all the contraception you’ll relied Mombasa. Medicine and even sterile dress- even and sterile Mombasa. Medicine fluids might need to ings and intravenous be purchasedThe a local pharmacy. from is equally variable, dentalstandard care of hepati- risk of increased is an and there from poorly transmission tis B and HIV sterilised equipment. service, the cheapest offer the but will have and medications; equipment least up-to-date the donations are mission hospitals (where rea- more have payment) often usual form of hospitalssonable facilities; and private and screened blood, which can be transported to can be transported blood, which screened 24 hours. the world within any part of by Cathy Lanigan by Cathy by Graham Fry by Graham Thrombosis (DVT)Deep Vein IN TRANSIT ••

The chief symptom of DVT symptom of or is swelling The chief DVT the development of To help prevent

Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate Antihistamines as dimenhydrinate such Travel in Health in Health Travel Children with Travel

AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE it can be varied: is in Kenya care Health has generally which excellent in Nairobi, but it is and nurses, well-trained doctors IN KENYA IN KENYA tea, biscuits or crystallised ginger), which biscuits or crystallisedtea, which ginger), some people. for a charm works like concerned about taking medication, a herbal ginger (in the form of is ginger alternative treating motion sickness. The main side ef-treating these drugs is drowsiness. If you’re of fect (Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert, (Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert, for choice usually the first Bonine) are natural sunlight and readjust your schedule your schedule natural sunlight and readjust as possible. (for meals, sleep etc) as soon fluids (of the nonalcoholic variety) and eat- variety) the nonalcoholic fluids (of to exposure ing light meals. Upon arrival, get in insomnia, fatigue, malaise or nausea. To minimise the effects, try drinking plenty of If you’re crossing more than five time zones than five crossing more If you’re results you could well suffer jet lag, which sions of the leg muscles (ie contract the leg the leg muscles (ie contract sions of fluids muscles while sitting), drink plenty of alcohol. avoid and JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS on long flights you should regularly walk walk on long flights regularly should you about the cabin, perform isometric compres- might break off and travel through the blood and travel off might break they could cause where to the lungs, vessels life-threatening complications. foot, ankle or calf, usually but not the pain of When a blood clot always on just one side. pain could cause to the lungs, it chest travels with any difficulty. Travellers and breathing seek these immediately should symptoms of medical attention. flight, the greater the risk. Although most Although the risk. most flight, the greater uneventfully, some reabsorbed blood clots are vein thrombosis (DVT), the vein and the longer Blood clots can form in the legs during flights, form in the legs during Blood clots can immobility. prolonged becausechiefly of is known as deep clots of This formation IN TRANSIT IN TRANSIT THROMBOSIS (DVT) DEEP VEIN lonelyplanet.com

HEALTH food (particularly shellfish) andwater. It Hepatitis Aisspread contaminated through Hepatitis A legs and/orgenitalia. Treatment is available. itching andswellingofinclude localised the mosquito spreads theinfection. Symptoms filariasis.Thebitetem fromaninfected cause Tiny wormsmigratingin the lymphaticsys- Filariasis tetanus, andlasts 10 years. vaccine isgiven asaninjectionaloneorwith thanforshort-termfor longstays trips.The cals ininfected areas. Thisismore important withthelo- likely contact those tobeinclose Vaccinationsuffocation. isrecommended for throat, requiring atracheotomy toprevent throat. Amembranecanformacrossthe temperature ahigh causes andasevere sore respiratory close Itusually through contact. Found inallof Africa,diphtheria isspread Diphtheria is Self-treatment needed. not advised. or viaadrip),butsometimesantibioticsare Treatment isbyfluidreplacement (orally by avoiding potentially food. contaminated avoided bydrinkingonlycleanwater and larly effective. of Mostcases cholera canbe is available intheUSA,butitisnotparticu- not replaced quickly.Anoralcholera vaccine iffluidsare debilitation which causes rhoea, The mainsymptomisprofuse watery diar- and spread viacontaminated drinkingwater. byabacteria iscaused affected. Thedisease also occuratothertimes.Travellers are rarely earthquakes, smalloutbreaks although can natural orotherdisasters, egwar,floods or Cholera isusuallyonlyaproblem during Cholera possible foryoutoinfect others directly. failure orpermanentboweldamage. Itisnot If nottreated theinfection kidney cancause specialist travel clinics. orinfectious disease andtreatmentexposed, isthenpossiblein havecan detect antibodiesifyoumight been blood inthestoolorurine. Abloodtest mayhavefever andrash, andadvancedcases theresymptoms. However, maybeatransient rivers shouldbeavoided. There maybeno in suspectfreshwater lakes orslow-running again.Paddlingthe cyclestarts orswimming freshand couldcontaminate water, where 360 NKNA • netosDsae IN KENYA Diseases ••Infectious time ashepatitis A (hepatyrix). It isgiven singlyorcanbegiven atthesame tis Baspartof routinechildhood vaccinations. Manyimmunised. countriesnowgive hepati- increased social oroccupationalriskshouldbe areashigh-risk with forlongperiodsorthose ally tocirrhosis orliver cancer. visiting Those carriers of thevirus,which couldleadeventu- completely, bechronic butsomepeoplemight casionally liver failure. Mostpeoplerecover fects theliver, jaundiceandoc- which causes to thebabyduringchildbirth. Hepatitis Baf- It canalsobespread fromaninfected mother intercourse. andsexual needles contaminated Hepatitis Bisspread infected through blood, Hepatitis B vaccine, withhepatyrix or viatim. vaccines canalsobegiven asasingle-dose 10-year protection. Hepatitis Aandtyphoid up toayear,andbooster after ayeargives willgiveinjection: asingledose protection for vaccine (Avaxim, Vaqta, Havrix) isgiven asan bepresent. Hepatitisabdominal painmight A whites of theeyes.Sometimesafever and include darkurineandayellowcolourtothe any long-term problems.Thefirst symptoms but onceyou’ve recovered, there won’tbe drink alcohol foruptosixmonths afterwards, recovering fromhepatitisA,youshouldn’t prolonged itcancause lethargy.fatal, Ifyou’re of Africans, andare notreadily available for too expensive fortheoverwhelming majority under controlisavailable, drugsare butthese cure; keep thedisease medicationthatmight ing intravenous Atpresent there needles. isno body-piercing procedures, shar- andthrough acupunctureing medical,dental, andother such aswithcontaminated instrumentsdur- spread ‘bloodtoblood’ contacts, through during childbirth orbreastfeeding. Itcanbe ner, andfromaninfected mothertoher baby intercourseby sexual withaninfected part- infectedthrough bloodandproducts, of theadultpopulation.Thevirusisspread Kenya, where theinfection rate isaround6.7% syndrome (AIDS),isanenormousproblem in acquiredvirus thatcauses immunedeficiency Human immunodeficiency virus( HIV), the months. six five years. Itcanbegiven over or fourweeks causes jaundice and, although itisrarely jaundiceand,although causes HIV A course willgiveA course protection foratleast lonelyplanet.com HEALTH 361 If you decide that you really do not wish to If you decide that you really SIDE EFFECTS & RISKS EFFECTSSIDE & RISKS ulcers. These side effects are not universal, not universal, Theseulcers. side effects are and can be minimised by taking medication as with food. such correctly, antimalarial drugs, you must understand take about avoiding the risks, and be obsessive ease may still be as high as 10%, the death rate facilities. intensive-care even in the best under the impression are travellers Many that malaria is a mild illness, that treatment is always easy and successful, and that tak- illness ing antimalarial drugs causes more through side effects than actually getting Side this is not true. Unfortunately malaria. the medication depend on the drug effects of can cause heart- Doxycycline being taken. mefloquine (Larium)burn and indigestion; can cause anxiety attacks, insomnia and psychiatric severe and (rarely) nightmares, can cause chloroquine nauseadisorders; and hair loss; and proguanil can cause mouth clude abdominal pain, diarrhoea and a cough. while in a malar- Anyone who develops a fever until infection should assume malarial ial area even if you’ve negative, proves a blood test been taking medication. If not antimalarial develop can within 24 the next stage treated, particularly if falciparum malaria is the hours, consciousness and jaundice, reduced parasite: malaria), followed coma (known as cerebral in hospital is essential, by death. Treatment the dis- of stage this late and if patients enter •• Infectious Diseases IN KENYA Teachers have been badly affected – at least 20 die daily – because they are mostly aged in in mostly aged – because they are – at least 20 die daily badly affected been have Teachers and of AIDS sufferers the lifespan to increase available in the West that are Drug treatments

their 20s, the group that’s most affected by HIV/AIDS. Kenya is facing an education crisis as a by HIV/AIDS. Kenya crisis as a is facing an education group that’s most affected their 20s, the Around 85% of pros- message. AIDS-awareness the people to spread fewer leaving even result, widespread especially vulnerable, due to the general are in and young girls affected, are titutes virgins. who are by sleeping with girls belief that AIDS can be cured well beyond women remain the foetus in HIV-infected passing to of infection the risk reduce The basic health care. access to even of whom have of most Kenyans, few the financial reach drug companies do not allow developing as long as Western problem is unlikely to improve the cost of Currently of their products. cheaper generic versions countries to produce much while the annual wage of most than US$35,000, a single AIDS victim for a year is more treating people in Kenya is around US$500. AIDS IN KENYA KENYA AIDS IN more are There Likeof its neighbours, Kenya most of a devastating AIDS epidemic. is in the grip die from the disease than 750 people Kenyansthan 2.5 million more full-blown AIDS, and with disease in Kenya and now strikes a heterosexual all classes of predominantly day. AIDS is every while infected and many others are been orphaned have million children Close to one people. in the womb.

Malaria is caused by a parasite in the is caused in the by a parasite Malaria mistaken for flu. Other symptoms can in- mistaken early stages include headaches, fevers, gen- fevers, include headaches, early stages eralised and pains, and malaise, aches often SYMPTOMS can affect people in several ways. The Malaria years ago might no longer be the case. be ago might no longer years cation is more suitable for some travellers than suitable for some travellers cation is more is malaria drug-resistant of The pattern others. rapidly, so what was advised severalchanging are in the pipeline. Up-to-date advice from a advice Up-to-date the pipeline. in are clinic is essential, as some medi- travel-health laria (yet). However, several different drugs drugs laria (yet). However, several different ones malaria and new used to prevent are most other diseases regularly uencountered by uencountered most other diseases regularly is no vaccination against ma- there travellers, falciparum malaria being the most dangerous falciparum malaria being the most dangerous Unlike form in Kenya. and the predominant bloodstream spread via the bite of the female the female of via the bite spread bloodstream several types, are There anopheles mosquito. 2000m is rare. 2000m rainy season) and climate, so check out the rainy season) so check climate, and The incidence of departure. situation before at altitudes highermalarial transmission than Malaria is a major health scourge in Kenya. in Kenya. health scourge is a major Malaria vary with season rates (higherInfection the in Malaria Malaria travellers either. If you think you might have If you think you might have either. travellers been is neces- exposed to HIV, a blood test and exposure gap after sary; a three-month to allow antibodies is required testing before the blood. to appear in lonelyplanet.com HEALTH to confirm whetherthetreatment has been assoon possible advice should besought themedication.Medicallaria andhowtouse have aboutthesymptomsof advised ma- been if youwillbefar from medicalfacilitiesand only Itshould beused way of self-medicating. at saving thepatient’slife andnotasaroutine asemergencyshould beseen treatment aimed treatment. Emergency stand-by treatments from major astand-by towns,considertaking If youare goingtobeinremote areas orfar STAND-BY TREATMENT nolongerthe past,youmight be resistant. exposure, ifyouhave soeven had malariain wanesafterResistance 18months of non- Western travellers have noresistance atall. of mildcases develop malariaifitrecurs; most aresistancemalaria develop andusuallyonly should be carefully considered. considerable. Travel inKenya when pregnant duringpregnancyboth motherandfoetus are riage or premature labourandtherisksto in pregnancy frequently results inmiscar- women orchildren younger than12.Malaria doxycycline shouldnotbetaken bypregnant with epilepsyshould avoid mefloquine,and take aparticularantimalarialdrug,egpeople recommend Somepeopleshould theiruse. not is effective, andmanyhomeopaths donot yet there thatthis isnoconclusive evidence against malaria,such asDemal200,but people advocate homeopathicpreparations toms toadoctorassoonpossible. Some lent, andreport anyfever orflu-like symp- mosquito bites. Use repel- netsandinsect 362 Adults who have survived childhoodAdults whohave survived THE ANTIMALARIAL ATOD

D–Diagnosis. Ifyouhave afever illnesswithinayearoftravel orflu-like toamalaria-infected C–Chemicalprevention (ieantimalarialdrugs)isusuallyneededinmalaria-infected areas. B–Bites: avoidatallcosts. Sleepinascreened room,useamosquitosprayorcoils;sleep A–Awareness Nomedicationistotallyeffective, oftherisk. butprotection ofupto95%is NKNA • netosDsae IN KENYA Diseases ••Infectious area, malariaisapossibility,andimmediate medicalattention isnecessary. last possibleexposure tomalaria. atleastaweekinadvanceandcontinuedforfourweeksafterdrugs needtobestarted the are indevelopment. Notallantimalarialdrugsare suitableforeveryone. Mostantimalarial adviceisneededastheresistance patternsExpert oftheparasite canchange,andnewdrugs intheevenings.of exposedskin sleeves, preferably withpermethrin-treated clothing. Applyappropriate repellent toallareas under apermethrin-impregnated netatnight.Cover upatnightwithlongtrousersand achievable withmostdrugs,aslongothermeasures have beentaken. Meningococcal infection isspread through Meningococcal Meningitis prick, are alsoavailable in the West. can identifymalariainthebloodfromafinger kits,which within 24hours. Self-diagnostic such ascerebral malaria,which canbefatal form avoid contractingaparticularlyserious youwantto ment. Thisisworthwhilebecause drugs were before beingused stand-by treat- as drugresistance, andonwhatantimalarial willdependonlocalconditions,such used successful. Thetypeof stand-by treatment and could cause atransient fever.and could cause Inrare cases asymptomatically (ieshowing nosymptoms) tongue) orasaninjection. Poliocanbecarried 10years,every either orally(adroponthe childhood intheWestandshould beboosted food andwater. Itisoneof thevaccinesgiven in Polio isgenerally spread contaminated through Poliomyelitis types of vaccine. in somecountries;itissafe tobegiven both tis Cvaccinegiven tochildren andadolescents is different fromthemeningococcal meningi- travellers insub-SaharanAfrica. Thisvaccine cal treatment is necessary. andaredneck stiffness rash.Immediate medi- Symptoms includeafever, severe headache, towardstheendofimportant thedryseason. andisespecially ommended forlongstays uncommon intravellers. Vaccination isrec- andclubs.Infectionas dormitories,buses is to becontracted incrowdedsituations,such respiratoryclose andismore contact likely The ACWY vaccineisrecommended forall lonelyplanet.com HEALTH

. A 363 Centers for Disease Control World Health Organization or the (www.cdc.gov/travel/blusheet.htm)

Yellow fever is spread by infected mosqui- by infected spread is fever Yellow TB can be asymptomatic, only being picked picked only being TB can be asymptomatic, children in developing The vacci- countries. children in a specialised chest given nation is usually clinic and causes scar at a small permanent vaccine and a live injection. It is of the site or women to pregnant be given should not immuno-compromised individuals. Although it’s not inevitable that you will it’s in Kenya, diarrhoeaget while travelling Diarrhoeacertainly is the most com- likely. illness, and sometimes mon travel-related as increased such simply dietary changes, the cause. To help prevent spices or oils, are ). You p365 diarrhoea, tap (see water avoid (www.who.int/wer/) and Prevention up-to-date without a legally required traveller and vaccinated could possibly be certificate arrival for detained in isolation at the port of even repatriated. up to 10 days, or illness to toes. from a flu-like Symptoms range inflammation), jaundice hepatitis (liver severe at a must be given and death. Vaccination clinic and is valid for 10 years. designated to must not be given vaccine and It’s a live women. immuno-compromised or pregnant vaccination is not man- to Kenya, For visitors is recommended. datory but TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA by infected human faeces. The first symptom human faeces. The first by infected or a pink rash on is usually a fever infection of septicaemiathe abdomen. Sometimes (blood A typhoid vaccine poisoning) can also occur. for protection give (typhim Vi, typherix) will In some countries, the oral vac- years. three Antibiotics are cine Vivotif is also available. and death is rare as treatment, usually given septicaemia occurs. unless Yellow Fever as evidence You should carry a certificate if you’ve yellow fever vaccination against of country, to been in an infected recently For a full list immigration problems. avoid visit exists yellow fever countries where of the of the websites up by a routine chest X-ray. Alternatively, it Alternatively, X-ray. chest up by a routine can cause a cough, some- weight or fever, loss exposure. after or even years times months Typhoid through handling food This illness is spread that has beenor drinking water contaminated Diarrhoea •• Traveller’s IN KENYA

Animal handlers should be vaccinated, as should be vaccinated, Animal handlers

all countries, but is given routinely to many all countries, but is given stays. The BCG in vaccine is not available closely although with the local population, protec- only moderate the vaccination gives important to be It is more tion against TB. stays for long-term than for short vaccinated milk products. BCG vaccination is recom- to be mixing mended for anyone who is likely TB is spread through close respiratory contact through close respiratory TB is spread milk or and occasionally through infected Tuberculosis (TB) Tuberculosis (TB) effective effective treatment. Sleeping sickness is spread via the bite via the bite Sleeping sickness is spread the tsetse of fly and causes a headache, is an There and eventually coma. fever Sleeping Sickness (Trypanosomiasis) Sleeping Sickness (Trypanosomiasis) affected. Treatment should be sought in a be sought should in a Treatment affected. specialised clinic. earliest sign of infection is intensely itchy, is intensely itchy, infection earliest sign of severely rarely are eyes. Travellers sore red, River Blindness (Onchocerciasis) River Blindness (Onchocerciasis) This is caused by the larvae a tiny worm, of a small fly. The of by the bite is spread which

This fever is spread occasionally via mosquito is spread This fever of fatal.symptoms are The and is rarely bites illness. and flu-like a fever Rift Valley Fever Rift Valley Fever ease, three injections are needed over a month. needed over are injections ease, three a not been and receive vaccinated If you have injections five you will need of a course bite, or as soon as possible after starting 24 hours been you vaccinated, the injury. If you have injections, and have postbite will need fewer help. medical time to seek more a reliable source of post-bite vaccine is not post-bite source of a reliable the dis- To prevent within 24 hours. available should those travelling to remote areas where where areas to remote should those travelling the bite) prevents the virus from spreading to spreading the virus from prevents the bite) the central nervous system. taken as soon as possible. Postbite vaccination Postbite as soon as possible. taken been before vaccinated (whether or not you’ve might be up to several months after an in- might after up to several be months be vaccination should so postbite bite), fected infected animal on broken skin. It is always on broken animal infected fatal start the clinical symptoms once (which Rabies is spread by the bites or licks of an or licks of Rabies by the bites spread is it causes weakness or paralysis of one or more one or more it causes of or paralysis weakness be permanent. might which muscles, Rabies lonelyplanet.com HEALTH urine. Self-treatment: fluid replacement with urine. Self-treatment: water toproduce pale,diluteddrink sufficient pening bythetime youfeel thirsty –aimto and tiredness. Dehydration is already hap- acclimatisation. unaccustomedexercise beforetaking full ticularly commoninhotclimates when replacement of andispar- fluidsandsalt, ing andexcessive fluidloss with inadequate This conditionoccurs following heavy sweat- Heat Exhaustion ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS acourse you couldstart of antibiotics. have giardiasis,butifyouare inaremote area medicaladviceifyoususpect Ideally, seek persistent butmaycause diarrhoea. rhoea, a short-lived boutof typicaltraveller’s diar- only to theparasite. cause Giardiasismight ally appears ormore aweek after exposure foodorwater.contaminated Theillnessusu- by This, like iscaused dysentery, amoebic Giardiasis (which iswith specific antibiotics). illness asitwon’t clearupwithouttreatment medicaladviceifyouthinkhaveseek the mild andtends tocomeongradually,but and mucusinthefaeces.Itcanberelatively blood causes dysentery and water, amoebic Contracted byeatingcontaminated food Amoebic Dysentery abdominal pain,seek medical attention. is accompaniedbyfever, shakingchills or is bloody,persists formore than72hours or not withineasyreach of atoilet.Ifdiarrhoea agentdiarrhoeal (egloperamide)ifyou are as ciprofloxacin ornorfloxacin) andananti- an antibiotic(usuallyaquinolinedrug,such or five taking stoolsaday,youshould start havingment butifyoustart more thanfour sugar. Afew stoolsdon’trequire loose treat- waterand (lots),andsomesalt containing fluids, preferably anoralrehydration solution piping hot through). right street vendors (ensure thatcooked foodis selective wheneatingfoodfrom so behighly bedirty, utensils might safe, plates orserving freshlyAlthough cooked foodcanoften be milk. unpasteurised contain ucts thatmight if cooked andbewaryof orpeeled, dairyprod- should alsoonlyeatfresh fruitsorvegetables 364 Symptoms include headache, dizziness If you develop diarrhoea, drinkplentyof diarrhoea, If youdevelop NKNA • niomna aad IN KENYA ••EnvironmentalHazards the stings(anaphylaxis).Ifyouare oneof whohaveonly tothose asevere allergy to die. will thatlandontreatedable; mosquitoes clothing clothingtreatmentsExcellent are alsoavail- (see p362 ). Use DEET-based repellents. insect cautions asyouwouldforavoiding malaria problems,avoid pre- take these thesame andinfected irritation can cause bites. To or denguefever, butthey(andotherinsects) notalwayscarrymalaria might Mosquitoes Insect Bites&Stings also required by intravenous drip. fluid andelectrolyte replacement isusually with water andfanningisideal.Emergency coolingbysprayingthebody death. Rapid lossofand eventually consciousness and ture; irrationalandhyperactive behaviour; nism, withanexcessive inbodytempera- rise therecase isdamage tothesweatingmecha- more conditionof serious heatstroke. Inthis Heat exhaustionisaprecursor tothemuch Heatstroke foods than usual. such assoup, andaddingalittlemore to salt component consistsof fluids consumingsalty lotion from apharmacy;other members of ily treated withmalathionand permethrin itchy anintensely rash.Theitchcause iseas- thefingers.skin, particularly between They tinymites liveaccommodation. These inthe get rid of them. killerthenchanginginsect thebeddingwill skin. Sprayingthemattress withcrawling- cheap hotels. Bites leadtovery itchy, lumpy assistance. medical are immediate bitten bya scorpion, seek that issometimeslife-threatening. Ifyou apainfulbitedry climates. Theycancause with DEET-based repellents is sensible. leishmaniasis.Preventioncutaneous of bites bite butcancarryarare skindisordercalled anastyitchybeaches. They usuallyonlycause Thiscouldsaveyourself. your life. (epinephrine) injection,which youcangive people,carryanEpiPenthese –anadrenaline water andfans.Thetreatment of thesalt-loss water and/orfruitjuice,andcoolingbycold Bed bugsare oftenBed foundinhostels and Sandflies are foundnearmanyAfrican Bee and wasp stings cause real andwaspstingscause problems Bee Scabies isalsofrequently foundincheap Scorpions are frequently foundinaridor lonelyplanet.com HEALTH 365 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © It remains unlikely in the short term that in the short term unlikely It remains Rather to stamp out tradi- than attempting Although some traditional African rem- ship, so education (and consequently the consequentlyship, so education (and the is inconsistent knowledge) application of and unregulated. they pretending tional practices, or simply by taken step happening, a positive aren’t traditional medi- of is the regulation Kenya associations and of- healers’ cine by creating topics as on such for healers courses fering sanitary practices. Western- conventional even a basic level of to all the style medicine will be made available Traditional medicine, on the Africa. people of other hand, will almost certainly continue to practised widely. be conventional Western-style medicine is too medicine Western-style conventional at- cultural prevailing because of expensive, because in beliefs, or simply titudes and some cases it works. It might also be be- – a World choice no other often cause there’s survey Organization that there found Health doctor for everyis one medical people 70,000 healer for every but a traditional in Kenya, 250 people. edies seem to work on illnesses as ma- such highlaria, sickle cell anaemia, blood pressure most African and some AIDS symptoms, art by apprentice- to learn their tend healers

•• Traditional Medicine IN KENYA

At least 80% of the African population relies the African population relies At least 80% of either because on traditional medicine, often TRADITIONAL MEDICINE TRADITIONAL MEDICINE face, but the presence of animals can still can still animals of face, but the presence contaminate supplies. some do bring pure water to the sur- water some do bring pure (such as with iodine tablets). Never drink as with iodine tablets). Never drink (such It’s also best lakes. and rivers from streams, drinking from pumps and wells – to avoid Water Water Never drink tap unless it has been water disinfected or chemically boiled, filtered sible so antivenene can be given if needed. can be given sible so antivenene a sprain. Do not apply a tourniquet, or cut or a sprain. Do not apply a Get medical help as soon as pos- suck the bite. (such as a stick) and apply a bandage over the over as a stick) and apply a bandage (such – similar to bandaging with firm pressure site, with poison (envenomed). If bitten, do not If bitten, with poison (envenomed). panic. Immobilise limb with a splint the bitten or cracks. However, 50% of those by bitten or cracks. However, 50% of not actually injected are snakes venomous Basically, avoid getting bitten! Don’t walk Don’t walk bitten! getting Basically, avoid holes stick your hand into and don’t barefoot, the household also need treatment to avoid to avoid the household also need treatment scabies, evennot show if they do spreading any symptoms. Snake Bites lonelyplanet.com LANGUAGE enabling youtocommunicate withpeople travel experience andopendoors,often areas, isveryuseful. Itwillenrichyour especially when travelling outsideurban theless, aworking knowledgeofSwahili, in EnglishthanthereareSwahili. None- are morebooksandnewspapers available from thecoast.You’llalsofindthat there into thelanguagefurtheryou getaway you’ll noticemoreEnglishwords creeping speak someItalianandGerman. parks, sosafarioperatorsalmostalways tourists tothecoastalsovisitnational industry mayalsospeakGerman.Most coast, andKenyansworkinginthetourist ian isalmostthesecondlanguageon problems makingyourselfunderstood.Ital- lish, soyoushouldn’texperiencetoomany people whodealwithtouristsspeakEng- Indian subcontinentorigin. and Urduarestillspokenbyresidentsof plethora ofminortriballanguages.Hindi Luo, Kikamba,MaasaiandSamburu)a indigenous languages(includingKikuyu, the country.Therearealsomanymajor Kenya andaretaughtinschoolsthroughout language itself)aretheofficial languages of English andSwahili(called CONTENTS Language 366 © LonelyPlanetPublications Swahili iswidelyspokeninKenya, but Most urbanKenyansandeventribal ie&Dts 369 370 368 368 369 368 Travel WithChildren 369 Transport Time &Dates Shopping &Services Question Words 367 On Safari Numbers 368 Language Difficulties Health 368 Directions 367 Conversation &Essentials Emergencies 367 Accommodation 367 Pronunciation 366 Kiswahili inthe turn. Forexample, to eachother, mustbepronouncedin PRONUNCIATION useful Swahili. pocket-sized languageguidechock-fullof Planet’s pronunciation guide.GetacopyofLonely to thelanguageandcontainsausefulaudio .org isanexcellentgeneralonlinereference The KamusiProjectatwww.kamusiproject SWAHILI like ‘feet’). be between friends– ken –listenoutforthedistinctivegreeting probably won’trealise Sheng isbeingspo- you canspeakreasonableSwahili, Kikuyu andothertriballanguages.Unless with afairsprinklingofHindi,Gujarati, patois, it’samixtureofSwahiliandEnglish, exclusively byyoungpeople.Essentiallya in KenyaisSheng,whichspokenalmost ers ofdifferenttriballanguages. who don’tspeakEnglish,particularlyspeak- time practising. pronounce theirwordsandspend some you, listencloselytohowSwahili speakers If thefollowingguidelinesdon’t work for to makingyourselfunderstoodin Swahili. Correct pronunciationofvowelsis thekey Vowels pronounced twice– section below.Ifaletteriswrittentwice,it combinations discussedintheConsonants nounced, unlessit’spartoftheconsonant is thepronunciation.Everyletterpro- Perhaps theeasiestpartoflearningSwahili syllable. stress almostalwaysfallsonthesecond-last indicates alengthenedvowelsound.Word is aseparatesyllable,andthatthedouble‘e’ has threesyllables:m- nounced ka-wa- Remember thatif twovowelsappearnext Another languageyoumaycomeacross Besht,

Swahili Phrasebook Mambo ee or -da. Sassa! kawaida Fit mzee ze (pronouncedalmost -e . Theresponsecan . (respected elder) (respectedelder) Note that the ‘m’ Notethatthe‘m’ (usual)ispro- forahandy, LANGUAGE is 367 Shikamoo Salama.

imetokea!

or . Waite polisi! Mwite daktari! Nimejipotea. Saidia! Ajali Niache! kwenye kona kwenye taa za barabarani Unakaa wapi? Ninakaa ... Naomba kupiga picha. Subiri kidogo. ... iko wapi? Iko moja kwa moja. karibu na jirani ya ng’ambo ya Geuza ... Jambo Karibu. Kwa heri. Kesho. Lala salama. Tutaonana. Ndiyo. Hapana. Tafadhali. Asante (sana). Karibu. Samahani. Pole. Habari? Nzuri. Unaitwa nani? Jina langu ni ... Unatoka wapi? Mimi ninatoka ... can be used as the Swa-

marahaba salama SWAHILI •• Accommodation •• Accommodation SWAHILI s been an ’ and (if asking a big

accident! m lost. ’ Call the police! EMERGENCIES Help! There Call a doctor! I Leave alone! me

next to opposite ... Turn at the corner at the traffic lights You’re welcome. Excuse me. Sorry. How are you? I’m fine, thanks. What’s your name? My name is ... Where are you from? I’m from ... Where do you live? I live in ... May I take a picture? Just a minute. DIRECTIONS Where’s ...? It’s straight ahead. near Hello. Welcome. Goodbye. (Until) tomorrow. Goodnight. See you later. Yes. No. Please. Thanks (very much). CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS CONVERSATION speak to someone It’s considered rude to so even if you without first greeting them, the person first. only want directions, greet Jambo favour) hili equivalents of ‘excuse me’. hili equivalents of ‘excuse used for elders: also a respectful greeting the reply is

ng ; use a light occur only l loch dh and r and th mtu mmoja watu wawili, kitanda kimoja watu wawili, vitanda viwili gesti hoteli hosteli ya vijana uwanja wa kambi Kuna chumba kwa ...? ... iko wapi? ... iko and you’ll be pretty close. r distinction between ‘d’ for

as ‘th’ in ‘this’ as in ‘singer’ Scottish like the ‘ch’ in as in ‘canyon’ as in ‘church’ ‘thing’ as in Naondoka sasa. Nataka. Vyoo viko wapi? Choo iko wapi? Naomba nione chumba? Ni bei gani kwa siku/mtu? Anwani ni nini? Unaweza kunipendekezea malazi rahisi? as the ‘oo’ in ‘moon’ as in ‘get’ as in ‘go’ as in ‘calm’ in ‘they’ as the ‘ey’ a slight Swahili speakers make only in ‘keep’ as the ‘ee’ I’m leaving now. I’ll take it. Where are the toilets? Where’s the bathroom? How much is it per day/person? Can the room? I see twin double Do you have a ... room? single What’s the address? Canrecommend you cheap lodging? hotel hostel youth camping ground camping house guest ACCOMMODATION Where’s a ...? dh th ny ng gh g ch

Most consonants in Swahili have equivalentsMost consonants sounds in English. The Consonants a e i o u lonelyplanet.com r combination is tricky at first but gets easiercombination is tricky at with practice. in words borrowed from Arabic. The in words borrowed from LANGUAGE 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 NUMBERS youshowme(onthemap)? Can ...down? Could youpleasewrite No, Idon’tunderstand. Yes, Iunderstand. mean? What does(asante) Does anyonespeak(English)? Do youspeak(English)? LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES tablets purification water thermometer painkillers iodine repellent insect contraceptives condoms antiseptic peanuts nuts bees aspirin antibiotics to... I’m allergic here. It hurts I’m sick. HEALTH right left 368 Unaweza kunionyesha(katikaramani)? Tafadhali ...andika? Hapana, sielewi. Ndiyo, naelewa. Neno (asante)linamaanagani? Kuna mtuyeyotekusema(Kiingereza)? Unasema (Kiingereza)? SWAHILI••Health

kumi natatu kumi nambili kumi namoja kumi tisa nane saba sita tano nne tatu mbili moja sifuri vidonge vyakusafishamaji pimajoto viondoa maumivu dawa la kingamimba dawa yakusafisha Nina mziowa... Inauma hapa. Mimi ni mgonjwa. kondom iodini karanga kokwa nyuki aspirini viuavijasumu kulia kushoto

kufukuza wadudu

jeraha bird baboon antelope buffalo African Danger Watch out! fence electric What animalisthat? What isthere? Look there. ON SAFARI 1000 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 Which? Where? When? What? Who? QUESTION WORDS zebra buffalo water hyena spotted snake rhinoceros mongoose lion leopard jackal impala hippopotamus giraffe gazelle elephant crocodile cheetah bushbaby

Lini?

(onsigns)

kumi natisa kumi nanane kumi nasaba kumi nasita kumi natano kumi nanne elfu mia moja tisini themanini sabini sitini hamsini arobaini thelathini ishirini nambili ishirini namoja ishirini ndege Nini? nyati pofu/kulungu swala/swara/paa mamba Tazama pale. mbogo Huyo nimnyamagani? fisi nguchiro twiga komba usiguse sengeni Hatari Angalia!/Chunga! Iko ninipale? Gani? Nani? punda milia chui mbweha swala pala ndovu/tembo kifaru nyani Wapi? nyoka simba kiboko duma lonelyplanet.com LANGUAGE 369 baisikeli gari forbaifor pikipiki daraja la kwanza daraja la pili kwenda tu kwenda na kurudi stendi Nataka kukodi ... mwezi wa kumi na moja mwezi wa kumi na mbili mwezi wa kumi ya kwanza ya mwisho ijayo dirisha la tiketi ratiba mwezi wa nne mwezi wa tano mwezi wa mwezi wa sita mwezi wa saba mwezi wa nane mwezi wa tisa basi ndege imeche leweshwa treni matatu imefutwa ngapi?

SWAHILI •• Shopping & Services •• Shopping SWAHILI

Naweza kuegesha hapa (kwa muda gani)? Hii ni barabara kwenda (Embu)? Kituo cha mafuta kiko wapi? Unaweza kunikodisha gari/pikipiki yako? minibus plane train (How long) Can I park here? Is this the road to (Embu)? Where’s a petrol station? one-way return cancelled delayed platform ticket window timetable Private Transport I’d like to hire a/an ... bicycle car 4WD motorbike Are you willing to hire out your car/motorbike? Which ... goes to (...)? ... ipi huenda (...)? bus When’s the ... (bus)? (Basi) ... itaondoka lini? first last next A ... ticket to (...). Tiketi moja ya ... kwenda (...). 1st-class 2nd-class April May June July August September October November December TRANSPORT Public Transport What time is the ... leaving? ... inaondoka saa

msafiri

ubalozi ... hospitali Intanet Kafe posta simu ya mtaani choo cha hadhara maarifa kwa watalii kadi ya benki hundi ya benki Sipendi. Kwa nini? mwezi wa pili mwezi wa tatu Jumatatu Jumanne Jumatano Alhamisi Ijumaa Jumamosi Jumapili mwezi wa kwanza Ni saa ngapi? Ni saa (nne). asubuhi mchana jioni leo kesho jana zaidi chache zaidi ... iko wapi? Ni bei gani? Naomba nione. Ni ghali mno. Punguza bei, tafadhali. Nataka. Mnakubali ...? duka lenye vitu vingi lenye duka soko ... Nataka kununua Naangalia tu. duka lenye vitu mbalimbali Namna?

price. travellers cheques travellers

March January February Saturday Sunday Thursday Friday Monday Tuesday Wednesday yesterday today tomorrow afternoon evening It’s (ten) o’clock. morning TIME & DATES What time is it? public toilet public office tourist post office post phone public hospital cafe internet bank embassy ... Where’s (a/the) ...? more less Do you accept ...? cards credit That’s too expensive. Please lower the Can I look at it? I don’t like it. I’m just looking. How much is it? I’d like to buy ... general store market department store Why? How? & SERVICESSHOPPING lonelyplanet.com I’ll take it. LANGUAGE inyourtruck? Could Ipayforaride won’tstart. car/motorbike The down(atChalinze). hasbroken car/motorbike The runoutofpetrol. I’ve aflattyre. I have hadanaccident. I’ve I needamechanic. petrol diesel ...litres. I’dlike Pleasefillitup. 370 © LonelyPlanetPublications Naweza kulipakwaliftikatikalorilako? Gari/pikipiki haiwaki. Gari/pikipiki imeharibika(Chalinze). Nataka lita... Jaza tangi/tanki. SWAHILI••TravelWithChildren Swahili Phrasebook Also availablefromLonely Planet: Mafuta yamekwisha. Nina pancha. Nimepata ajali. Nahitaji fundi. mafuta dizeli (English-speaking) (English-speaking) srle stroller potty highchair babysitter disposable nappies/ service child-minding baby seat a/an...? Is there I needa/an... TRAVEL WITHCHILDREN fortheride. Thanks tothepetrolcost? Could Icontribute Asante kwalifti. Naweza kuchangiasehemuyabeimafuta? diapers Kuna ...? Nahitaji ... kigari chamtoto choo chamtoto kiti juuchamtoto yaya (anayesemaKiingereza) nepi anayeweza kumleamtoto kiti chakitoto lonelyplanet.com © Lonely Planet Publications 371 Glossary

The following are some common words you kali – fierce or ferocious; eg hatari mbwa kali – ‘danger are likely to come across when in Kenya. fierce dog’ For a more complete glossary of food terms, kanga – printed cotton wraparound incorporating a see p51 . Swahili proverb; worn by many women both inside and outside the home abanyamorigo – medicine man KANU – Kenya African National Union askari – security guard, watchman KC – Kenya Cowboy, a young white male Kenyan kikoi – striped cotton sarong traditionally worn by men banda – thatched-roof hut with wooden or earthen walls kiondo – woven basket or simple wood-and-stone accommodation kitu kidogo – ‘a little something’; a bribe bao – traditional African board game kofia – cap worn by Muslim men beach boys – self-appointed guides, touts, hustlers and KWS – Kenya Wildlife Service dealers on the coast bhang – marijuana lugga – dry river bed, mainly in northern Kenya boda-boda – bicycle-taxi boma – village makonde – woodcarving style, originally from southern bui-bui – black cover-all garment worn by Islamic women Tanzania outside the home makuti – thatch made with palm leaves used for roofing buildings, mainly on the coast cardphone – phone that takes a phonecard malaya – prostitute chai – tea, but also a bribe mandazi – semisweet, flat doughnut chai masala – sweet tea with spices manyatta – Maasai or Samburu livestock camp often chakula – food surrounded by a circle of thorn bushes chang’a – dangerous homemade alcoholic brew contain- mataha – mashed beans, potatoes, maize and green ing methyl alcohol vegetables choo – toilet; pronounced cho matatu – public minibuses used throughout the country matoke – mashed plantains (green bananas) dhow – traditional Arabic sailing vessel mboga – vegetables dudu – a small insect or bug; a creepy-crawly miraa – bundles of leafy shoots that are chewed as a duka – small shop or kiosk selling household basics stimulant and appetite suppressant mkate mayai – fried, wheat pancake filled with mince- fundi – repair man or woman who fixes clothing or cars, meat and raw egg; literally ‘bread eggs’ or is in the building trades; also an expert moran – Maasai or Samburu warrior (plural morani) murram – dirt or part-gravel road gof – volcanic crater mursik – milk drink fermented with cow’s urine and ashes mwananchi – worker of any kind but usually agricultural hakuna matata – no problem; watch out – this often (plural wananchi, which is also used to refer to ‘the people’) means there is a problem! mwizi – a thief harambee – the concept of community self-help; volun- mzee – an old man or respected elder tary fundraising; a cornerstone of Kenyatta’s ideology mzee kipara – bald man; literally means ‘mosquito hatari – danger airport’ hoteli – basic local eatery mzungu – white person (plural wazungu) ito – wooden ‘eyes’ painted on a dhow to allow it to see NARC – National Alliance Rainbow Coalition GLOSSARY obstacles in the water Ng’oroko – Turkana bandits Nissan – see matatu jinga! – crazy!; also used as an adjective nyama choma – barbecued meat, often goat jua kali – literally ‘fierce sun’; usually an outdoor vehicle- Nyayo – a cornerstone of Moi’s political ideology, mean- repair shop or market ing ‘footsteps’; to follow in the footsteps of Jomo Kenyatta © Lonely Planet Publications 372 GLOSSARY

panga – machete, carried by most people in the country- shilingi – money side and often by thieves in the cities shuka – Maasai blanket parking boys – unemployed youths or young men who sigana – traditional African performance form containing will assist in parking a vehicle and guard it while the narration, song, music, dance, chant, ritual, mask, move- owner is absent ment, banter and poetry pesa – money sis – white Kenyan slang for ‘yuck’ Peugeot – shared taxi siwa – ornately carved ivory wind instrument, unique to pombe – Kenyan beer, usually made with millet the coastal region and often used for fanfare at weddings and sugar Tusker – Kenyan beer rafiki – friend; as in ‘my friend, you want safari?’ rondavel – circular hut, usually a thatched building with ugali – staple made from maize or cassava flour, or both a conical roof uhuru – freedom or independence

safari – ‘journey’ in Kiswahili wa benzi – someone driving a Mercedes-Benz car bought sambusa – deep-fried pastry triangles stuffed with spiced with, it’s implied, the proceeds of corruption mincemeat; similar to Indian samosa wananchi – workers or ‘the people’ (singular shamba – small farm or plot of land mwananchi) shifta – bandit wazungu – white people (singular mzungu)

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