WESTERN AUSTRALIA WAY OUT

WESTTo see the Kimberley region usually involves �ive-star cruising and a �ive-�igure price tag – we decided to see if we could experience this wilderness on a small budget…

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS PHOEBE SMITH

At the sharp end Crossing one of the many crocodile-infested rivers on the only route across the Kimberley WESTERN AUSTRALIA

light problem – it appears the hull has gather as many non-perishables “Ssplit.” The woman on the phone said beforehand from the supermarket. this in an unemotional and matter-of- It’s no secret that is my fact manner, as though she’d told me thing, but the idea of doing it out west, my train was fi ve minutes late. Though in Australia – the land seemingly home I’m no master sailor, I knew enough to to more deadly critters per capita than know that this was not good news. anywhere else on Earth, not to mention The small city of Broome, on the far saltwater crocs – left me nervous. And west coast of Australia, is the jumping I was not alone. As I met my fellow off point for many a Kimberley cruise, intrepid crew, consisting of a mix of the likes of which boast full-on luxury budget-minded backpackers, sociable in the form of sumptuous duvets, so-called ‘grey nomads’ (aka travelling air-conditioned private cabins and retirees) and money-saving middle- fi ne dining. Yet I’d arrived determined aged o“ ce workers escaping the to fi nd a bargain, and thought I had – 9-to-5, the sense of embarking on the one that was a fraction of the price, if unknown made the air palpably tense. Light at the end… (clockwise from far left) The a bit rough and ready. However, as I’d “I know you’ve seen the itinerary,” legendary sunset in Darwin just discovered, the upshot was that said our guide, James ‘Duff man’ Duff y, draws the crowds as they it also wasn’t fi t for purpose, so here a beard-sporting, dreadlocked local emerge from overlanding and from the city itself; The I was, up the coast without a vessel. who has been overlanding for most Prison Boab Tree – once Not easily defeated, I hastily sorted of the last decade. “But I need you to used to keep abducted an overland alternative. And so it was forget about what you’ve read. On aboriginal people from running away; the sign at that I found myself, a couple of days these trips, anything can and will Willare Bridge Roadhouse later, in a ‘cosy’ 4WD vehicle with twelve happen. The road conditions can promises many kilometres other travellers, towing all our cooking, mean diversions and may of adventure; Du man lights the campire used sleeping and apparatus behind have to be changed, which can aff ect both for keeping us us in a small trailer. My objective hadn’t when and where we stop, but…” he warm and for cooking changed, though, and this promised to continued, a wide grin spreading be a thrilling way to see the region on across his face, “I do promise that a budget. Our fl uff y duvets would be you are about to embark on an replaced by canvas-covered roll mats unforgettable adventure.” and sleeping bags (known as ‘swags’); our ‘air conditioning’ would be the First comes last outside air at night; and as for fi ne With Duff man’s intriguing promise dining, cooking would require us to lingering in the air, we left Broome regularly stop to saw felled trees for and its fossil-lined beaches, where a campfi re, get water by fi lling our four herds of camel roam at sunset, far jerry cans as often as we could and behind. We stocked up on supplies at ⊳

‘I do promise that you are about to embark on an unforgettable adventure’

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His point was beautifully illustrated at the next stop, Windjana Gorge – a looming ridgeline of a Devonian-era limestone reef that was under the ocean some 300 million years ago. It also hides a smattering of Aboriginal paintings in its crevices, depicting kangaroos, human fi gures and faces. By the time we reached our ‘’ – a patch of desert about an hour up the road – we were all exhausted. But we wouldn’t be resting straight away.

Notes from underground “Tunnel Creek is a hugely important site,” said our guide, as we protested leaving camp to explore when it was getting dark. “If we go in the morning, it will be busy. But if we go now…” We reluctantly agreed and headed to the 750m-long cave system – thought to be one of the oldest in Western Australia. The leaves crunched like crisps underfoot as we walked outside the cave and, though the stars and moon shone high in the sky, we soon left the light behind and were engulfed by the darkness of the cavern. The odd butterfl ies danced in our torch beams. That’s the point red eyes of baby alligators lying in wait squeak and fl ap of bats waking up to Gradually it became lighter, and it was (clockwise from top) in the creek ahead, playing a waiting Du man points out cave hunt echoed around us, while the with a dizzying sense of realisation paintings found after a walk game for the humans they knew were knee-deep water, which looked green that I found we were outside again, from an innocuous turning inside. It was as though nature itself under the light from my headtorch, staring at the moon once more. o the main road; exploring wanted to contribute to the story. in Tunnel Creek at night, was fi lled with skittish yabbies (local It was here where Duff man told when the wildlife begin to By the time we reached the crayfi sh) darting about my feet. us the story of an Aboriginal man awaken; the striped domes campsite, it was so late that suddenly The walls yawned for metres above called Jandamarra who, in 1897, hid of the Bungle Bungles the idea of sleeping in a swag felt us, like stone sculptures sporting out here when he refused to turn in welcoming; any worry of snakes or Ships of the beach ⊳ Willare Bridge Roadhouse in Derby, elaborate chandeliers, while the roots his uncle for cattle-poaching. Despite venomous bedfellows was replaced (top) The ubiquitous camels where the sign informed us that our of trees pierced the roof, dangling evading capture for many days, he only by extreme tiredness. We slept on the beach in Western ‘The Aboriginal peoples Australia’s seaside town fi nal destination of Darwin – nine days above our heads. Spiny red-and-yellow was eventually found and killed. As by the light of the moon, a gentle of Broome; (bottom) the away – would see us cover 1,709km insects scurried over the rocks and Duff man spoke the fi nal words of the cooling breeze tickling our cheeks, town’s still-famous pearl (that’s not far short of the distance don’t believe they own a fl uttering of black-and-white tale, behind him I could make out the while dingos howled somewhere ⊳ shells are everywhere here between London and Moscow). As the last stretch of tarmac road came and the land, but that they went under our tyres, I felt the shifting sand slide beneath our wheels. The are custodians of it’ road signs warning of dangers ahead came thick and fast: fi re risk – severe; Our fi rst stop, at a site called Boab and their families). They would work four-wheel drive – mandatory; fl ash Prison Tree, nodded to the original for hours, day after day, deep-diving in fl ooding – a real possibility. This felt settlers. It was once used as a place to steel-and-copper suits for nothing in like a truly daring undertaking. shade from the intense sun and feast the way of payment. This prison tree The road we were following, known on the fl esh of the tree’s seeds, which was where many were held en route as the Gibb River Road, is a new one, have a brittle texture, like meringue, to Broome. Looking at the wizened relatively speaking. It was established yet taste of mandarins. But after the bark, I couldn’t help but think about as a cattle-driving route in the early pearling industry took hold here in the what it had witnessed and I shivered. 1900s, moving herds between Derby 1860s, it was used for a more sinister “The Aboriginal peoples don’t in the south and Wyndham in the purpose. Back then, a practice known believe they own the land, but that north. But it’s a course that has been as ‘blackbirding’ was common, and it they are custodians of it,” explained followed for around 20,000 years by meant Aboriginal people could be Duff man as we headed further along the Aboriginal peoples who regularly taken at gunpoint to go pearling the road. “As such, they are very much used it as a trading route. (refusal meant death for themselves part of its history.”

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Echo location The yawning space inside Cathedral Gorge, where even the sounds of birds and insects are amplified WESTERN AUSTRALIA

‘I felt like I could reach out and run my fi ngers over the mountains, reading their stories like brail’

water inside. I gazed in awe as the tweets A couple of days later, about 2.30am, from birds reverberated around its walls. I realised something was wrong. The moon was gone. Not only that but the Sky’s the limit stars were absent: no Southern Cross, With so much money saved, and just no Milky Way – just a single red planet two days left before reaching Darwin, lighting the darkness. The usual rustle I decided a splurge was in order. This of leaves and the breath of my fellow came in the form of a helicopter ride. campers was replaced with a tuneless “Seeing the Bungle Bungles from the hum. I had never felt so disorientated. ground is special,” said the pilot as we Just then, I noticed a neon cluster of took off , “but from above, you get to lines. As I stared, I realised these were found its way under my toenails, Feeling the bite see them in a whole other dimension.” large green digits. I wiggled my toes had also got under my skin, too. And (top) Saltwater crocs are frequent visitors to water How right he was. As we soared and felt the soft fabric of a plush duvet though the dirt could be easily supplies especially once over the range, it emerged like covering my feet. I wasn’t outside. The scrubbed away, the memories of you reach the Northern a boundless knobbled mass of pimples, hum was the air-conditioning unit; the swagging in the Kimberley under the Territory; (bottom) the scale of Purnululu/the lumps and bumps, resembling gnarled red ‘planet’ the standby light from the night sky would remain for much Bungle Bungles is best sections on a tree trunk that, courtesy TV. This was no campsite; I was in my longer. Five stars can be wonderful, appreciated from the air of my door-free chopper, I felt like fi ve-star hotel in the city of Darwin. I mused as I drifted off again, but it Duff man pulled in at an innocuous- the extravagance, for us, arrived in the I could reach out and run my fi ngers It seemed that the bush, much can never compete with a billion looking stop, to reveal a treasure trove form of a much-needed natural shower over, reading their stories like brail. like the mud and sand that had witnessed in a clear night’s sky. of ochre, black and white Aboriginal in the ice-cool waters of Emma Gorge artwork under an overhang. We’d never Waterfall. Then there was the have known it existed without him. unforgettable Manning Gorge, where One such site even had depictions of we were so mesmerised by its beauty jellyfi sh and what looked like a whale, – a cirque of red rock with water so proving the theory that our ancestors clear you could see right to its depths did indeed use this trail to head out – that we decided to swim back to the from the desert to the ocean. Then campsite, crossing mini-falls, battling there were the wildlife sightings: salt- spiky pandanus trees and guided by the and freshwater crocodiles, wallaroos smear of the Milky Way as night fell. bounding by the roadside, even a deadly Campsites ranged from scraps of taipan snake hidden in a passageway. land under the shade of fat boab trees, Finally, there were those special to a starry night on top of a mountain moments, such as the joy at discovering plateau after crossing the 60m-wide the 998,000-acre Ellenbrae Station waters of the Pentecost River. But by (a cattle station, not the railway far the highlight of the trip came at variety), where owners Logan and Purnululu National Park, known for Larissa baked scones throughout the its Bungle Bungle Range. Located deep dry season (June and July), making inland, boat passengers usually reach Bush luxury ⊳ in the distance. It was a special enough money to keep them afl oat the this place courtesy of a helicopter, but (top) The ininity pool-like introduction to life in the Kimberley. rest of the time. “Last year, we made we spent the night amid its beehive- Bell Gorge, a bathing treat for overlanders; (bottom) 14,350 scones,” revealed Larissa. like rock formations, seeing the night the 4WD may not o er Rocks of ages Between such encounters we took sky dazzle far from any light pollution. ive-star luxury but takes The following days passed in a similarly swims in croc-free billabongs. Bell Sleeping out meant we woke early you to a billion-star scenery heady mix of adventures, where treats Gorge was one of the fi rst, resembling and got to watch the sun rise, casting came in the form of simple, and often a wild version of an infi nity pool as it a pink glow on the rocky domes. Then low-priced (or free), luxuries. Acres of dropped down into a gushing waterfall we walked to Cathedral Gorge before never-ending sand, interspersed with while monitor lizards looked on. At any coach tours entered the park gates. desert bloodwood trees (a type of El Questro Station, where the beautiful There the rock has formed what looks eucalyptus), were traversed before Luxury Lodge of Australia is situated, like an apple core, with a pool of

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factor sunscreen and take a hat. of location is the Cable Beach Footnotes Only swim in water sources known Club (cablebeachclub.com; to be croc-free and do not wade doubles from AUS$199/£111) from in water crossings as salties are where you can stroll to watch often present. If in doubt, don’t get the sunset, search for dinosaur in the water. Snakes are present footprints in the sand, take The Kimberley, but tend to stay out of your way; a camel ride or explore the town. nevertheless, be sure to walk On the road, expect very basic Australia with heavy steps in areas where accommodation – swag bags TOP TIP visibility is limited and give them and sleeping bags are the way to In Darwin, head an especially wide berth. go (plus mosquito-net tents for down to the nights when the insects are out in Mindil Market to Getting there & around force). In Darwin, try the Oaks Elan experience an Qantas (qantas.com) operates Darwin (oakshotels.com; doubles abundance of daily direct €lights between from AUS$98/£54), which is street food, much Vital statistics London Heathrow and Perth from (Kimberleyadventures.com.au), one centrally located for nightlife and of it inspired Five add-ons worth the splurge Starting town: Broome around £814; €light time around 17 of the oldest operators in Broome, just a short taxi ride to the locally by the nearby Finishing town: Either Kununurra hours. From there, onward €lights which runs regular nine-day trips famous Mindil Beach Sunset Indonesian A budget overland tour of a fascinating insight into early or Darwin to Broome are available (€light time between Broome and Darwin and Market (mindil.com.au). the Kimberley is a great way life in Broome. Prices from islands. Kimberley population: 38,801 around 2.5 hours). Other options 20-day trips between Perth and to save, but there are a few AUS$89 (£49). Languages: English go via Dubai (emirates.com) and Darwin in the dry season, taking Food & drink activities worth getting the Time: GMT+8 Singapore (singaporeair.com), in the Kimberley and the Bungle Out on the road, classic Australian credit card out for… Helicopter ride over International dialling: +61 with €light times of 20 hours or Bungles National Park. Prices from fare abounds – think barbecued 3the Bungle Bungles Visas: Required by UK nationals. more, including a stopover. It’s AUS$1,995 (£1,110), which includes meat and vegetables with Horizontal Falls Seeing the park’s striped Three-month eVisitor visas (free) highly recommended that you the services of a driver/guide, all a side order of damper bread 1Usually seen on pricey boat sandstone domes from the can be applied for before your trip cross the Kimberley with a guide park entry fees, all meals, camping (Australian soda bread) cooked tours around the Kimberley coast ground is incredible, but gazing at www.homea£airs.gov.au. and a 4WD all-terrain vehicle. equipment and most excursions. in the embers of a camp€ire. Any and Buccaneer Archipelago, down on them from a helicopter Money: Australian dollar (AUS$), Ships of the beach extra snacks can usually be picked this natural phenomenon, is mind-blowing. Prices from currently AUS$1.80 to the UK£ (top right) Be sure to take The trip Accommodation up en route at service stations where the sea lows horizontally AUS$299 (£166) with Heli Spirit a sunset camel ride across the sands at Cable The author travelled with There are limited options in (when available). In Broome, be through a tiny gap in the (helispirit.com.au). When to go Beach Club in Broome Kimberley Adventure Tours Broome – by far the best in terms sure to pay a visit to Matso’s mountains, is well worth a look. Wet season (Dec–Apr): Heavy Broome Brewery for locally made Horizontal Falls Adventures Lake Argyle cruise rains, extremely high temperatures beers (matsos.com.au) or The (horizontalfallsadventures.com. 4From the Bungle Bungles, (think high 30s and low 40s in Aarli (theaarli.com.au) for Asian- au) oers seaplane trips out take a short trip to camp and °C ) and roads predisposed to inspired eating – both are highly from Broome, including a meal watch the incredible sunset from €looding. Most operators o£ering recommended local picks. on a boat, the chance to swim this huge lake. Oered as an road tours stop running. with sharks and a fast boat ride add-on by Kimberley Adventure Dry season (May–Nov): Roads through the falls. Prices from Tours for AUS$120 (£67). Further reading Just tilt your head… begin to open mid- to late April – & information (top right) The Horizontal AUS$850 (£472). you need to check ahead. Some West Coast Australia (Lonely Falls is one of the region’s Aboriginal tour, Darwin natural wonders worth road closures are always possible. Planet, 2017) – a good guide to WA Pudakul Aboriginal Cultural shelling out extra for Camel ride, Broome 5 Weather is warm and humid but Westernaustralia.com – o¨icial 2Look up Broome online Tours (pudakul.com.au) oers bearable – expect averages of tourist board site for the region Amber nectar and you’ll be deluged with a unique insight into the life (bottom) Matso’s Broome around 30°C and up. Australia.com – the o¨icial tourist Brewery serves up some shots of camels marching along of the Aboriginal residents of board site for the country top local suds the sands at sunset. Combine the Top End. Take the Wetland Health & safety a ride with a half-day tour at Discovery Tour to see the local No speci€ic jabs are required. Kimberley Wild Expeditions crocs and birdlife by boat. Water is safe but di¨icult to €ind (kimberleywild.com.au), oering Prices from AUS$165 (£92). en route. It is vital that you carry multiple jerry cans and €ill them up at every possible opportunity – especially if not on an organised More Online tour. You also need to carry extra Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/191 fuel and check ahead to €ind out the latest road conditions Planning Guides (www.derbytourism.com.au) as Australia Guide they can be treacherous and Archive Articles prone to €lash €looding. ‘The Indian Paciic’ (issue 184) – Riding the rails from Perth to Sydney Daytime can be swelteringly hot, ’Deep Down Under’ (issue 157) – Whale-watching in the waters of WA

so be sure to cover up; use high- Scott Jessop by Phoebe Smith; Map illustration Alamy; ’8 Inland Adventures in WA’ (online only) – From wild rocks to cool pools

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