A MONTHLY NEWSLETTER October 2017 Vol. 30, No. 9

dateline: greenland encounter several white-water cascades, Their sheer power has been likened to that then a steep, 90-foot waterfall in a narrow of steelhead and Argentine trout. The Honor Roll Report gorge that abruptly stops their migration. annual run of fish begins in July and con- This River Is Choked Way upstream of the waterfall, I was told, tinues until early September. there is a large lake system inhabited by The Kangia River, when I fished it with Char, Fun to Fish ice-age char. The area is so remote that this past August, was stuffed with fish. Some pools were so full of fish it was Editor Note: Honor Roll subscriber Dr. almost too easy to hook one. In fact, you Ueli Zellweger is back with another great had to be careful not to foul-hook one. report, this one devoted to a recent trip What was far more attractive was to fish he took to a stunningly beautiful river the faster runs, the small pockets between in Greenland that is simply full of fish. riffles, and the bends in the river. The Thanks, Ueli, for staying in touch! Kangia runs gin clear, and quite often you he Kangia River is one of the very could see fish from the bank well enough best rivers in all of Greenland to to target, and throw to, a single big fish. Tfish for sea-run char, or so That is not to say that a smaller fish didn’t I was told by locals and others. It is fa- often snap your fly away from the tar- mous for its consistent run of fish and for geted one. Almost everywhere you fished, the outstanding size of its fish. Located once you tied on a fly that these fish liked, in West Greenland about 60 miles south nobody seems to know how big those it was not unusual to hook, land, and re- of the Arctic Circle, it meanders through landlocked fish really are. Below the falls, lease several fish from the very same spot. a very scenic valley of granite rock and the average weight of the fish is around Single-handed or smallish switch untouched tundra. The fish here, from five pounds, with a few far bigger ones rods in 6 or 7 wt. were ideal on this the point they enter the river, can easily mostly lying quietly in the deepest pools. river. The rules here call for the release run some three to four miles before they All of these fish are in prime condition. of all caught fish and for the use of single barbless hooks. Fishing from most of SUPPORT OUR CORPORATE SPONSORS the banks and wading on the ultra-clean gravel was easy. The fishing during my visit focused primarily on the 2.4 miles of water down- stream of the waterfall. This stretch of the river begins about two miles upstream of Kangia River Lodge, which is located on IN THIS ISSUE a high plateau that offers a magnificent view of the lowest part of the river as well Florida Iceland as the estuary it flows into. You can also This BTT Gathering Laxa i Kjos: An see the upper end of Kangia Fjord. There Has Special Appeal On-Site Report Page 3 Pages 6–8 is a base camp available near the most at- tractive beats, which is reached by hiking Canada some 40 minutes up and down a tundra A Family Approach This BC/Alberta Trip to Fishing in Belize Involved VRBO Lodging path. Rods, waders, and other tackle Pages 3–4 Page 8 could be left there overnight. Weather-wise, my week was favored Alaska Bahamas by dry conditions. There were some high Painter Creek Lodge: All about a Trip to A Complete Update Grand Bahama Island clouds and fog early in the morning, but Pages 5–6 Pages 8–9 this cleared most days to leave us fishing THE ANGLING REPORT under a blue sky. A decent breeze mostly there is not much sign locally of fly life in blowing up the valley kept the bugs away. the river. The youngsters feed on plank- There were some mosquitos and rather ton, I was told; then, as they grow older, big blackflies around, and I was told they it’s believed that they become cannibal- can be annoying in windless conditions. istic. There seems to be no fish species They did not bite badly, at least during my other than Arctic char in the Kangia River. stay. Head nets or Deet keep them at bay, One early morning when tide and I was told. I did not use either very much weather conditions were favorable, I went THE ANGLING REPORT during my stay. The temperature here sea fishing with two other guests. At the GROUP PUBLISHER sometimes dropped quite rapidly. One entry point of the river into the fjord, John D. Lunn day it was fine to fish for hours in short there is always a chance to hook a halibut, 512-470-7447 sleeves, but at about 3 PM I had to put on we were told, or some other heavy fish. EDITOR two more layers of clothing. The week before, guests had heaved up Don Causey The absolute highlight of this trip several fierce-looking wolf fish, the big- CONTRIBUTING EDITOR was the hike I took through rugged tundra gest weighing almost 40 pounds. On our Jed Lyons right up to the impressive waterfall. Sit- morning outing, we did not catch any- ting there on one of the high cliffs eating thing other than cod, but we were lucky COPY EDITOR my lunch, watching literally several thou- enough to spot some spouting humpback Gary Hamel sand fish lined up below, was an unforget- whales in the fjord. Because the tide was LAYOUT & PRODUCTION table experience. These were all fish that running out, we stopped early and headed Ben F. Badger Jr. had made it through serious white water. back to the lodge at lunchtime. In between all the average-sized fish, I re- We had another glorious outing on ILLUSTRATIONS peatedly saw several far bigger fish, with the river that afternoon. Within two and Gordon Allen the largest appearing to be some three feet a half hours, I had caught 29 fish. As long. I estimated their weight at around usual, most of them were pure silver in ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER 20 pounds or more. color. The others had some creamy spots Michael Floyd There were plenty of signs of wild- with a touch of color along the flanks. 706-823-3739 life in the area. I saw droppings from The whole week I caught only one cock [email protected] Arctic fox, ptarmigan, and snow hares. fish, a six-pounder, that was in full clas- Subscription Inquiries: We were told that golden eagles of spec- sic spawning colors unique to Arctic char. (Orders, address changes, problems) tacular size can be regularly spotted. One The biggest fish caught during the week 800-283-9471 www.theanglingreport.com afternoon, a huge reindeer in velvet trot- weighed an impressive 10 pounds. Email: [email protected] ted up the valley on the opposite bank. As for flies, these fish seemed to like A Publication of MCC Magazines, LLC a division of Morris Communications Company, Along the path up to the base camp, there green-colored offerings best. The stand- LLC 735 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901 were hundreds of fresh boletus, a species out fly for me was an olive green gold- of mushroom, and loads of small tasty headed nymph in size 6 or 8 with rubber Donna Kessler, President blueberries. Unfortunately, we never saw legs. Dry flies such as Chernobyl Ants in Patty Tiberg, Vice President any of the boletus or blueberries on our orange or purple, Bombers, and Muddlers Scott Ferguson, Director of Circulation plates, but I repeatedly picked my fill of were also good. Some of the guests had Donald Horton, Director of Manufacturing the latter as I strolled along. On swampy a lot of fun with Intruders. Sometimes Kris Miller, Director of Production meadows and big shingle banks beautiful fish just followed these flies for some Morris Communications Company, LLC wildflowers in full bloom added to the distance; at other times, they took skated William S. Morris III, Chairman serene atmosphere. Interestingly, there flies freely. Stripping fast or taking up William S. Morris IV, President & CEO ©2017 by MCC Magazines, LLC. All rights reserved. The were numerous side channels and puddles the line roly-poly style (double-handled Angling Report (ISSN 01045-3539) is published monthly by MCC Magazines, LLC, 735 Broad Street, Augusta, GA 30901. along the river that were full of tiny fish. retrieve with the rod tucked under your Subscriptions are $49 for one year, $87 for two years. Canada and Mexico add $20 per year (U.S. funds only). Outside North It was unclear at first what they ate, as arm) worked quite well. Watching these America add $40 per year (U.S. funds only). Periodicals post- age paid at Augusta, GA and additional mailing offices. POST- MASTER: Send address corrections to The Angling Report, Customer Support Procedures PO Box 433237, Palm Coast, FL 32143-9616. Contributions in the form of manuscripts or photographs will be gladly considered for publication. A self-addressed, stamped Want to inquire about your subscription or web access, change e-mail ad- envelope of the proper size must accompany each submission. Please write for editorial guidelines if submitting for the first dress, and more? https://tar.pcdfusion.com/pcd/Order?iKey=I**WEB time, and enclose a SASE; this is very important. We cannot guarantee against damage or loss of materials submitted, but we take great care in handling all submissions. Want to file a Trip Report? http://anglingreport.com/file-a-trip-report/ Address all correspondence to The Angling Report, P.O. Box 1207, Augusta, GA 30903-1207. For subscription inquiries or if you do not wish to have your name provided to qualified users of our mailing list, call 1-800-283-9471. The Angling Re- Want to reach Editor Don Causey? [email protected] port may not be photocopied or otherwise reproduced without express written permission from the general manager.

October 2017 -2- Volume 30, Number 9 THE ANGLING REPORT nice, strong fish eagerly attack your fly, clean tributaries of the river, we were told. I booked this trip through the Swed- missing it several times before finally tak- The only complaint I heard about the food ish company, Solid Adventures (www. ing it solidly, was a treat. was the paucity of fruit and salad. Some solidadventures.com). A week of fishing Kangia River Lodge is privately guests said they missed those items. All at Kangia River Lodge costs $3,990 US owned. It is reached from the harbor drinks, including beers and mixed drinks at present, not including flights, tips, and town of Maniitsoq by boat. The run takes from a sort of minibar, were free. There any incidental hotel stays that might be a good two hours. The last 900 feet of are three friendly guides employed by the necessary. The hotel in Maniitsoq I stayed your journey from the anchoring spot lodge. All of them knew their business in is quite good but not cheap. On my to the shore is done in a smallish rub- quite well. On some days, they served way home, due to the tide, the transport ber dinghy. The upper part of the fjord fresh char prepared in aluminium foil boat arrived in Maniitsoq around midday. is quite shallow, so tides dictate when over a fire on the riverbank. The weather was miserable, so we had to the lodge can be reached. It has a suit- The town of Maniitsoq, where you cancel a boat excursion up another fjord able dining room, a small bar with cosy pick up the transfer boat to the lodge, is to view some glaciers. I went to the local seating, a nice veranda, and a dormitory reached by a 45-minute domestic flight museum instead, where I enjoyed a high- cabin with six smallish rooms, each of from Kangerlussuaq International Airport. ly interesting free tour given by a Danish which is equipped with two bunk beds. The scenic crossing over rugged moun- gentleman. The last entry in the visitors’ When the lodge is fully booked, as it was tains and impressive glaciers is spectacu- book dated from May of this year. during my week, the dormitory does not lar. Air Greenland serves Kangerlussuaq Do I recommend this trip to fellow offer much room or privacy. Food here is twice daily from Copenhagen. Depending subscribers? Like all of the other guests, prepared by a young chef in a nice, new on the tide and weather conditions, hotel I came away generally pleased with the kitchen. It was not rich food, but it varied nights in Kangerlussuaq or Maniitsoq trip. The prime fishing in this unique river greatly from day to day. For lunch, every- may be necessary. The day before my and the impressive scenery outweigh all one made his own sandwich. Our water scheduled flight home, most flights in the inconveniences by far. Enjoy!—Dr. bottles could be refilled in one of the Greenland had been canceled due to fog. Ueli Zellweger.

Briefly Noted Things to Do . . . Places to Go . . . New Developments „„ We’ve told you already that Bone- with a banquet honoring conservation he- you are wondering, Weston, Florida, is fish & Tarpon Trust will be holding its roes. Dinner guests will have the chance very close to Fort Lauderdale and Miami. Sixth International Science Symposium to compete for auction items, including Visitors who arrive by air will be able to this coming November 10 to 11 at the bucket-list destination trips, fine art, top- take advantage of a shuttle service orga- Bonaventure Resort and Spa in Weston, of-the-line spin and fly-fishing gear, plus a nized by BTT. Florida. What we haven’t made clear is special BTT 20th Anniversary trip to fish Don Causey Note: I’ll be at the Sympo- the appeal of this event to anyone who sium myself, at the Global Rescue booth. cares about flats fishing. Yes, this a serious That company is among the sponsors of forum where some of the most important this event. See you there! fisheries scientists in the world present papers and discuss weighty matters that „„ Last month, we published a report affect the future of bonefish, tarpon, and on a family vacation fishing trip to Baja, permit, but this year it is also going to be California. Well, here is another report on a fun event with fishing legends such as that kind of outing but to Belize. It was Andy Mill, Chico Fernandez, C. A. Rich- sent to us by Don Muelrath of Fly Fishing ardson, Steve Huff, and Rick Ruoff, who Adventures on a family trip he arranged will be on hand to share fishing knowl- for his own family, not a client. He writes: edge and provide personal instruction on “This report is about a vacation an indoor casting lane. New to this year’s for our entire family in Belize, using a symposium is a Flats Expo, showcas- and conduct research with BTT-affiliated combination of a small private island and ing the products and services of industry scientists. The Rising Tide, a mothership that oper- leaders, from the latest technical devel- Registration, lodging, and transporta- ates out of Belize City. The small private opments in the sport to world-renowned tion information, plus an events calendar island we used is called Tarpon Sands. fishing lodges and outfitters. Fly tying, and list of auction items, are available on It’s about a 15-minute boat ride east of photography clinics, and an Art and Film the BTT website at: https://www.bone- Belize City and about a quarter of a mile Festival also highlight the schedule, along fishtarpontrust.org/symposium. In case inside the Belize barrier reef. There is a

October 2017 -3- Volume 30, Number 9 THE ANGLING REPORT three-bedroom home on the island, along year was our third such outing in the last of CI: “I’ve picked up a wide spectrum with separate quarters for the staff. One four years. On each trip, we have docked of views recently on Australian saltwater of the things that drew me to the island The Rising Tide at an island so we could fly fishing forums from folks who have is its location about 300 yards from my accommodate the entire family, half on been frequent CI visitors for many years. personal favorite tarpon flat in all of Be- the boat and half on the island. On every There seems to be no doubt the fishing lize. As for The Rising Tide, it is a 58-foot trip, we have had access to the guide staff isn’t what it used to be, but many still say Hatteras with three staterooms that can from The Rising Tide, of course. Subscrib- it is outstanding. One thing I am picking comfortably sleep six persons. Both the ers interested in a trip like this can get in up is a torrent of complaints about Air island home and The Rising Tide come touch with me at: [email protected]. Fiji’s once-weekly service from Nadi, Fiji, with their own cooks. The most important Tel. 888-347-4896. The web address for to Kiribati. The airline appears to have a thing The Rising Tide brings to a trip like The Rising Tide is www.flyfishbelize.com. terrible record on baggage delivery, with this is its staff of three guides and the Postscript: A trip like the one above will repeated cases of Aussie anglers stuck three skiffs it tows behind it. I have known be custom-priced, of course, but the fol- in CI waiting for their fishing gear. With these guides for more than 20 years, and lowing costs for booking The Rising Tide once-a-week flight service, that obviously they are among the best flats guides in all will give you an indication of what the puts quite a damper on a fishing trip.” of Belize. But they are much more than total bill will look like. Figures are for an Postscript: Send your feedback to: don- that, too. They have a lot of experience all-inclusive seven-night booking: Party [email protected]. taking people snorkeling and swimming, of two with one skiff and guide, $5,445 and they are nothing short of experts at each person; party of five or six with three „„ At any point in our lives, it can be teaching kids to fish (both fly and spin). skiffs and guides, $3,695 each. On-island tough to find someone who has the time, These guides were critical to the success lodging, if requested, will be extra. money, physical fitness, and inclination to of our trip, as they were available virtually go fishing at the same time and place we 24 hours a day for whatever activities the want to do that. The real rub is when you family wanted to do: swimming, snorkel- start thinking internationally. Longtime ing, bait fishing off the island pier, trolling local fishing buddies are great, but that along the reef, island hopping, or doing doesn’t mean they have the means and what they do best, guiding me and some imagination to get on a plane to some- others in the group to tarpon, permit, and where like Alaska or . bonefish on the flats. What occasions these musings is a “Our family group consisted of 11 note we received recently from subscriber people, including five grandchildren, ages Bill Mach, who says, at 60, residing in eight to 16. Half of us stayed on the island Colorado Springs, he has run into trouble and the other half on the boat. Included finding someone whose fishing profile in our trip was a guided day tour to some matches his. He wondered if we might inland Mayan ruins, daily snorkeling be able to help in some way. We told him and swimming, kayaking around the is- „„ It has been a while since we have we would try if he would send us a brief land, volleyball, catching large numbers received a subscriber report on Christ- personal profile focusing on what he likes of snappers off the pier (the kids even mas Island, and we have a request for to do in the way of fishing. Here is what jumped a 20-pound tarpon using the same recent input from a fellow subscriber who he sent us: shrimp bait they used for the snappers), tentatively plans to go there next year. “The sort of person I would enjoy occasional family Monopoly games, bar- Please check in if you have been to CI in traveling with is someone who would racuda trolling on the reef, and visiting the last year to year and a half. Just a note prefer to sleep in a tent next to the water a nearby island aquarium. The fishing would be fine, but a Trip Report would be rather than travel an hour or more each highlight was the tarpon fishing. Each even better. How was the fishing? Are the way at prime fishing time to get to and evening (and one early morning), the kids flats getting crowded? Any big bonefish from a hotel; someone who would rather blind-cast and trolled in a certain channel around? Are they getting skittish? What rent a car and explore Patagonia’s fishing for about an hour with spin equipment. about GTs, milkfish, offshore species? for a month than spend the same number They caught a variety of fish this way, Also, we heard rumors there is a plan to of dollars to fish from a big-name lodge; and jumped at least one tarpon every ses- upgrade the airport on CI, turning it into someone who doesn’t count more than sion except one. The tarpon they jumped an all-weather, land-anytime facility. We about ten fish caught without using the ranged from 50 to about 110 pounds. are checking on that rumor now. pronoun we more than me. In sum, I’m Our nine-year-old granddaughter was Here is one bit of feedback that came looking for a fellow traveler who does not the fishing superstar after she released a in recently from the subscriber who wants let fear of a new place or its people hold 50-pound tarpon at the boat. to fish CI next year. He lives on the “oth- him back from a great experience. At 60, “Our family vacation in Belize this er” side of CI, that is, the side living out of a backpack is still fun to me.

October 2017 -4- Volume 30, Number 9 THE ANGLING REPORT Here is a partial list of trips I have enjoyed are a very different kind of person, to send Should we be wading around on live coral in the past: a weeklong bonefishing trip to a profile of your own fishing wants and in our trips to places like Roatan and Glovers Reef in Belize, followed by a few dreams. We will pursue this fishing buddy Belize? Subscriber Bruce Pfund does not days of tarpon fishing on the Sittee River matchmaking service as far and long as think so, and here is how he came to that in Central Belize; salmon fishing in Alas- anyone is interested. The only rule is you conclusion: “On a recent trip to Roatan, I ka from one of the fly-in, public-use cab- spent a troubling part of my time wading ins; a do-it-yourself float trip for salmon around on beautiful live coral on the reef or char, also in Alaska; a drive-around trip sections that we fished. Each step was to fish the many rivers and lakes around crunchy, like walking on potato chips. It Bariloche, ; a couple days of was a sound I recall from wading similar guided tarpon fishing in Puerto Rico fol- places in Belize. My boots on those occa- lowed up by on-your-own fishing those sions broke small elkhorn coral heads by same waters using kayaks; bonefishing the hundreds, if not thousands, over the with a guide in the Bahamas for a couple course of a week’s fishing. My conscience of days, followed by an equal number of and I have had enough at this point. Cor- days fishing on your own; long road trips als are in bad shape worldwide, and I’m in the and Canada not doing any more wading on live coral, utilizing shore-launched craft and float even though the locals claim that breaking tubes to access a variety of waters; Llama live corals helps them spread.” packing into remote trout lakes and creeks have to file reports on trips that result Postscript: Does anyone agree or dis- in Colorado.” from this service. Write: doncausey@an- agree? What are the biological facts here? Anyone out there share Bill’s sense glingreport.com. We are checking on that and welcome of fun? You can reach him by e-mail at feedback in the meantime. Write: doncau- [email protected]. Feel free also, if you „„ Finally, here is an intriguing thought: [email protected].

OUTFITTER CRITIQUES The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

This section of The Angling Report is based entirely on subscriber-written Fishing Trip Report Forms. Our policy on these forms is to publish excerpts in the newslet- ter of Angler Network Forms as received without censorship. Agents, guides, lodge operators, and/or outfitters who disagree with anything said about them in this section are free to submit a rebuttal. As a subscriber, you can help extend the reach of this program by filing a Fishing Trip Report Form yourself. You should find one inside this issue of your newsletter. Alternately, you can file a report online by going to our website, www.anglingreport.com, and clicking on “File a Report.”

„„ Subscriber Brian Griffith gives pulling the trigger on this trip was a great affords guests almost completely private Painter Creek Lodge on the Alaska Pen- decision. My only regret is that I waited access to miles of great salmon water insula a rave review, despite summer- so long to do it. via the lodge’s jetboats. Throughout the like weather that gave the kings lockjaw Painter Creek Lodge is owned and week, the only people I saw were Jon, part of the time he was there. We have operated by Jon Kent and his lovely the guides, and my fishing partner, Paul reported on Painter Creek Lodge many wife, Patty. Jon has been guiding at the Weaver. This was a “real” Alaskan fish- times, including several updates on its lodge since 1984 and has been at least ing trip. fishery after a nearby volcano erupted a partial owner since 1991. It is safe to My main reason for coming was to in 2005, temporarily disrupting things. assume there is no one on who catch king salmon. I have fished for and It’s good to see all is back to normal. knows this drainage any better than caught the other four Pacific salmon but Thanks, Brian, for a nice report. He Jon. The lodge sits on 15 private acres never had the opportunity to try kings. writes: surrounded by four million acres of the The king season is four weeks long here, This past July I had the pleasure of Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife Ref- from late June to the middle of July. finally fishing for king salmon at Painter uge and the Aniakchak National Monu- During this time, Jon and his two guides Creek Lodge on the Alaskan Peninsula. I ment and Preserve. It lies about 100 (Paul Tickner, 15 years of experience on say “finally” because Painter Creek has miles due south of King Salmon and is Painter Creek, and Jim Wise, a rookie been on my radar for nearly 15 years, accessed by a runway that sits adjacent this year) take two to four anglers to but it seemed like some new destination to the lodge. wherever the kings are. The possibili- always came along to claim my fishing Painter Creek Lodge is the only ties include the main river as well as a budget dollars. I am happy to report that operation on this river system, and this number of tributaries. The appeal for me

October 2017 -5- Volume 30, Number 9 THE ANGLING REPORT is that this can all be accomplished at One thing we did not see much of were have fished a lot of places over the past Painter Creek with a single-handed rod. mosquitoes. The only place where they 20-plus years, and I have rarely enjoyed While I can cast a Spey rod adequately, were present at all was at the boat launch myself more. I highly recommend this I much prefer fighting fish on a single- area. Even there, they were only a minor place. I am not waiting another 15 handed rod. The fish at Painter Creek irritation. When we were on the river years to go back. In fact, I have already may not be quite as large on average fishing I never saw one biting insect. booked a spot for next July. as Kenai River kings, but there is a lot That was a nice surprise considering we Painter Creek takes up to six anglers to be said for catching 15- to 30-pound were in Alaska in the early summer. for silver salmon from mid-August until fish in small water with a single-handed Our normal fishing day started with September 30. My partner, Paul Weaver, rod. We used 10 weights with 250- to a hearty breakfast at 7:30 to 8:00. We has been going for cohos here for 30 300-grain sink-tip lines and just about were generally at the boats by 8:30, at years and says the numbers of fish are any fly, as long as it was a pink bunny. which point we would ride for as long as just mind boggling. The cost of my week We had wonderful fishing for the needed to get to the fish. There was very at Painter Creek Lodge was $6,600, first three days. Overcast skies and a bit low water this year, so we needed to go which included the flight from King of a breeze made the fish very coopera- downstream quite a ways to reach fish. Salmon to the lodge and back. Jon Kent tive. Upwards of 20-plus takes by bright The low water slowed the run of salmon can be contacted through his website at: kings and chum salmon were common. a bit, too, and made the ride through www.paintercreeklodge.com. His e-mail The number we actually landed varied the rapids pretty exciting. Once at the address is [email protected]. day by day, but the fish were definitely desired location, we would wade-fish Enjoy! “on.” Casting across and letting it swing on sandy bottoms until lunch, which we with a very slow strip retrieve was the would take near where the boats were „„ Subscriber Bob Card has weighed ticket. The takes were surprisingly in on a fishing/touring trip he took to subtle, more like the line coming tight on Iceland this past July with his daughter. a snag, but, once you got a good strip-set The report is chock full of good sugges- on them, these were among the strongest tions if you are thinking about going to fish I’ve caught of that size and that Iceland. He writes: includes sea-run browns, sea-run char, In early July 2017, my daughter and steelhead, golden dorado, and tigerfish. I had the opportunity to fish the Laxa i The whole experience was a blast! The Kjos in Iceland for Atlantic salmon. This chums were a great surprise on this trip, was in conjunction with an 11-day trip as they were wonderfully tough fighters touring the island. All in all, we had an and very plentiful. outstanding fishing experience and tour As good as the fishing was the first as well. Our trip was arranged for us by three days, it slowed way down the last Alex Jardine of Aardvark McLeod in the three days. On Wednesday, the skies parked. After lunch, we would fish until UK (www.aardvarkmcleod.com) through cleared, the temperatures rose into the about 4 PM, when we would begin head- lease owner Hreggnasi Angling Club mid-70s, and the wind just plain stopped. ing back to the lodge for a hot shower (http://hreggnasi.com/). The cost of the It was beautiful weather, unless you and a good dinner. The food was excel- fishing, like everything else in Iceland, happened to be fishing for king salmon. lent and the accommodations clean and was very high, at about $1,800 per day. King fishing is the one trip that you pray spacious. Painter Creek Lodge is not a A mitigating factor was the length of the for awful weather on, as bright skies give fancy lodge, but it is very comfortable days in July. You could literally spend 12 kings a serious case of lockjaw. We still and, considering the logistics of get- hours per day on the water at that time managed to catch a few kings, mind you, ting every single thing there by air, it of year. and more than a few chums. But, overall, is amazingly plush. There are excellent The Laxa i Kjos is located only the fishing was definitely slower. The heaters in every cabin, and the hot wa- about 45 minutes from downtown Reyk- lovely weather (I was literally able to ter has far better pressure than I have at javik, but it seems much more remote fish in shirt sleeves!) did provide us one home! Jon recently renovated much of when you get there. It is a fairly short benefit: it gave us an excellent view of the main lodge after a brown bear almost river, with a fishing length of only about Mount Chiginagak, a volcano that erupt- destroyed it in 2012. There are still tooth eight miles as the crow flies (probably ed in 2005, as well as the surrounding marks on one of the counters and a giant twice that in river miles), but it has a mountains. Every day we saw fresh bear paw print on the pantry wall. stunning variety of conditions for the and wolf tracks, and we had several ac- Overall, the fishing at Painter Creek fisherman. It begins with tidal pools tual sightings of bears and moose. Seals, was excellent when the weather was bad, eroded in a slab rock bottom, which otters, and beavers were fairly common- and the lodge was incredibly comfort- give way to waterfall cascades, slow place, and the bird life was exceptional. able. The company was exceptional. I meanders through meadows, deep can-

October 2017 -6- Volume 30, Number 9 THE ANGLING REPORT yon pools, and stretches that resemble Importantly, it had unusually fast Wi-Fi me) will likely have more luck here than a traditional river configuration. It is throughout. The staff were all very help- a beginner. The short casts you had to probably more than 100 yards wide near ful and the young chef served up food make on some holes were as challeng- its confluence with the salt but upstream that was by far the best we had in our ing as the long up-wind casts you had is hardly wider than what we would call nearly two weeks traveling all over the to make on others. One hole required a large creek in Colorado. Even there, country. The 11 other guests in the lodge you to fish with no more than 12 feet of however, there were pools deep enough were all very sociable, interesting, and line out! To be sure, on that latter hole, to hold several large fish. The intimacy considerate. Most of them were from the it was exciting to watch a fish slaughter of the fishing in a smaller river like this UK, but Switzerland, India, and Iceland your fly, then explode out of a little rock was a real attraction. were also represented. A lot of great hole in the middle of the river and head The protocol at the lodge is to fish conversation was had. While the Iceland- straight back to the , with you and a different beat every half day. This ers nearly always spoke in their native your guide trying to avoid falling as you creates the impression you are fishing tongue to one another, they all spoke chased after him. Fourthly, the regular a completely different river each time. perfect English when required, as did all practice in Iceland is to fish with barbed We fished with 9-foot, 7 wt. rods, which the guests. double or treble hooks. This increases seemed ideal for the casting requirement I will close with a few cautions. the hooked-to-landed ratio, but the fish and the average fish size. We fished with First, the schedule at the lodge was hit so hard here that 10 to 25 percent relatively small flies (average no. 10 grueling, with breakfast at 6:30 (albeit a of them took the fly so deeply they had hooks), including a hitch fly setup for good one) and dinner finishing shortly to be donated to the chef rather than which the river is known. This latter is after midnight. There were several great released. It is common, by the way, to a tube fly with the hook tied separately hikes and tourist attractions in the area keep some fish in Iceland anyway. True to the tippet. It is skimmed on the top catch-and-release adherents may want of the water, creating a V and inspiring to note what the practice is here. The very exciting takes. We fished all our handling of all fish was very respectful, flies on the surface, or just below, but the to be sure, and every effort was made to style was more like streamer fishing than release them healthy. Fifth, while we es- typical dry fly fishing. The takes were all sentially had no insect problem while we hard and aggressive. The river conditions were fishing, our experience elsewhere were nearly ideal, with crystal-clear, in Iceland suggests that fishermen com- perfect flow volumes and large numbers ing here should be prepared for a cloud of fresh fish. Every pool seemed to hold of biting midges in the upper reaches of many fish. some rivers. Lastly, all used fishing gear My daughter and I shared a rod, brought into Iceland must be disinfected. and in four sessions over two days, we This can be done at your home, I was hooked 13 fish, landing 10 of them, told, but I was unable to find anyone in including a nice four- to five-pound sea (waterfalls, caves, etc.), but the late Colorado who knew how to do this. I trout. The rest were all first-year returns, dinner schedule would assuredly make thought of doing it myself, but when I also weighing in at four to five pounds. it difficult for a non-fisherman guest read the label for the preferred disinfec- Some of the anglers at the lodge caught to enjoy these things. It looked like it tant (Vikron), I decided I did not want fish exceeding 10 pounds, and we saw would be a fair drive to find a restaurant it anywhere near me or my house. I also several that would be much larger than to enjoy an earlier dinner. Another thing worried that it might dissolve all my that. None of the true monsters were to be aware of here is the fact that fishing gear! The process for having this done hooked while we were there, however. In conditions on this river can be negatively at the airport is straightforward and ef- general, we had heard that the Icelandic affected by unusually heavy rain or lack ficient at a cost of about $50. However, southern and western rivers tend to have of rain. On the other hand, some vari- that leaves you with a pile of wet gear to more but smaller fish than the north- ability is to be expected on any salmon take to your car/hotel, plus I found that ern and eastern rivers, so we knew this river, I guess. Thirdly, while it is possible the disinfectant discolored my waders would likely be the outcome and were for a non-technical fly fisherman to do and some plastic parts on my gear. While very happy with it. well here, as my daughter’s four landed that didn’t seem to have any long-term The fishing on the Laxa i Kjos is fish in just two sessions will attest, there performance impact on my gear, you based out of a well-organized and nicely are many challenging holes that require may want to leave your “display” gear appointed lodge. It has a good chang- you to stand with your back to a cliff, at home. Also, to avoid disinfecting all ing/drying room, two comfortable twin as well as some very small, deep holes your flies and fly box, it is suggested that beds and a bathroom in each bedroom, in the middle of the river with crazy you bring an empty fly box and just buy and a nice common and dining area. currents, etc. A skilled trick caster (not your flies once you arrive in Iceland. Vei-

October 2017 -7- Volume 30, Number 9 THE ANGLING REPORT dihornid (http://veidihornid.is/) is a very writes. “He really worked hard to put fishing lodge. The island has some very well-stocked fly shop just outside the me on fish on the Elk and St. Mary. He good guides to boot. All of that is a Reykjavik city center. While we bought was also patient with my shortcomings. roundabout way of introducing the fol- flies in Reykjavik, our guide, Sibbi, was Despite the Elk being known as a dry-fly lowing report from subscriber Matt a tier and he preferred to use all his own stream we fished mostly with a nymph Capofreddi, who fished Grand Bahama flies anyway. under a yarn indicator. Very productive. this past April with three other anglers On the St. Mary, we stayed with dry who had booked the services of David „„ Subscriber Rick Wallace has mostly flies (mayfly and hoppers) and did just and Jeffrey Pinder of Grand Bahama good things to say about a combination fine. The fishing on Michelle Creek also Bonefishing (www.grandbahamabone- fishing/touring trip he took with his wife focused on dry flies. This was wade fish- fishing.com). He writes: to British Columbia and Alberta this ing, not fishing from a boat. My guide “This past February, I was invited to past July. The trip involved four days of was a young fellow, Garret, who hunts help a party of three fill out their needed fishing on the Old Man River, the Elk cougars in the winter. The day was a foursome on a trip to Grand Bahama River, the St. Mary River, and Michelle little too rigorous for a person of a cer- Island to fish with Jeffrey and David Creek followed by some sightseeing in tain age, but I caught enough fish to be Pinder. I immediately accepted before the greater Jasper, Banff, and Lake Lou- happy. The fishing on the Old Man River checking with my wife or employer! ise area. He worked through an outfitter, on my first day was slow, despite the Luckily, neither one had any concerns Dave Brown (https://davebrownoutfit- good efforts of my guide, Jamie. He tried about my plans. I later learned my com- ters.com/) for the fishing but made his very hard. I learned later it was better to panions have been fishing the same week own arrangements through VRBO to fish the river later in the day, but I could with Jeffrey and David Pinder for over stay in a condo. He and his wife began 20 years. Additional research on my their trip by flying into Calgary, where destination and the guides I would be they rented a car. fishing with made me realize I was very Though generally bullish on the fortunate to be included on the trip. Vari- trip, Wallace says his first day of fishing ous members of the Pinder family guide began somewhat chaotically: “There was throughout the Bahamas. Jeffrey and Da- a lot of confusion on the first day,” he vid have been guiding on Grand Bahama writes. “For one thing, I had to drive an for many decades. hour and 15 minutes to meet my guide “Grand Bahama is very easy to when my wife thought she would have reach from the east coast of the US, with the car for the day. Then it turned out direct flights from both Charlotte and that all the anglers scheduled to fish that not do this because of my car situation.” Miami, among other cities. The Pinders day were told to meet at the Kootenay Wallace says the weather was excel- don’t operate a fishing lodge; they ar- Fly Shop at 9:00 AM. This resulted in lent during his stay in the area. It was range for their clients to stay in local multiple parties needing to get licenses actually a little hot at times, he says, hotels. We stayed at the Grand Lucayan, and sort out their trips at the same time. noting that river conditions were good which had all of the typical resort ame- Because I had bought my license and despite a local drought because of good nities. Most of the guests in the hotel, specific stream ‘endorsements’ for snowpack. He says he did not see an- other than us, were cruise ship tourists specific days in advance, a change in other fisherman on any waters he fished. on all-inclusive packages. Our breakfasts schedule wreaked havoc with my li- “I caught enough fish and had enough were included free in our total rate, and cense. Dave Brown’s assistant was great missed strikes to keep things interest- we went out to eat in the evening on our at getting it all straight (no extra charge ing,” he writes. “Great scenery was a own, as there were many good reason- to me for license change), but I started bonus.” ably priced restaurant choices within the first day fishing without a proper li- Postscript: Wallace gives the cost of easy walking distance (my favorite was cense. A text in the afternoon assured me his trip as about $2,150, including four Flying Fish). I think the all-inclusive that all was well.” days of guided fishing, plus lodging in a package would not have been a great Startup confusion aside, Wallace condo. He recommends the experience option, as most of the hotel meals were says he had a great outing on the Elk to fellow subscribers. served buffet style. River followed by a truly great day on “The Pinders picked us up at 8 AM the St. Mary. His day on the Old Man „„ Grand Bahama Island, one of the each morning, and the first day there River was not so good, he says. The most northerly of the Bahamian islands, were plenty of hugs and talk of past trips most prevalent fish was the cutthroat, he provides a fairly unique opportunity to and good times. It was a quick ride to says, with some rainbows and cutbows fish unpressured flats with substantial the boat launch on the north side of the mixed in. “One of the guides I fished numbers of large bonefish while staying island. We used this launch all week, with, Chris Dawson, was excellent,” he either at a luxury resort or a traditional typically fishing our way out to the vari-

October 2017 -8- Volume 30, Number 9 THE ANGLING REPORT ous flats. We fished different areas each “The next day, I had a different my fishing partner had similar results. day, and throughout the entire four days fishing companion and we fished with No barracuda were landed. of fishing I did not see another fisherman David. Like the previous day, it was “On our final day of fishing, OCJ or boat on the flats. The first day, my somewhat windy. Worse, the cloud cover had to leave early, so my partner and I fishing partner and I were paired up with thickened as the day progressed, mak- fished with Jeffrey while the last mem- Jeffrey. Before this trip, I had only fished ing it hard to spot fish. Ultimately, we ber of the party had a day of fishing solo for bonefish one other time, so I wasn’t did not land any fish at all that day. My with David. His goal for the day was entirely sure what to expect. My partner favorite moment came at the end of the to land ten fish, which was about the was up on the bow for the first beat (30 day, very close to the boat launch, when combined number we had been catching minutes or a fish) and within minutes we found tailing fish working on a flat. on the better days. This was by far the Jeffrey spotted a fish and started to give It was wonderful watching them come nicest day, no clouds and less wind. We directions. My fishing companion made after our flies, even if we didn’t catch ended up spending the entire day on one a flawless first cast, no knotted lines and any of them. The other two anglers had flat with shots at fish all day long. With leaders, no stepping on the line, unheard a much better day and landed about five a bright overhead sun and clear sandy of for a first cast. After that amazing fish each despite the challenging condi- bottom, seeing the fish was much easier. cast, it was strip, strip, and he was on, tions. My partner for the day, who had been just like that, first cast of the trip. For the “Our third day was a complete working hard without much luck, was rest of the trip, he was known as OCJ, washout, with driving rain and wind. The able to connect to fish throughout the One Cast Joe. The fish he landed on that flats were completely unfishable, so we day. Together, I think we landed about cast was a beauty of a bonefish that eas- took a tour of the island, did some read- ten fish, with many more hookups and ily weighed six pounds, the typical size missed opportunities. Back at the launch, for most of our fish on the trip. we were excited to hear about our solo “It was then my turn on the bow, fishing partner, who did indeed end up and I thought, ‘Wow! This is going to be with over 10 fish for the day. Two of easy. Just give me a few minutes and I them were very large barracuda caught will be tight too!’ Unfortunately, due to on the spinning rod. angler error, I promptly missed several “Overall, this was a great trip and opportunities until I was timed out and amazing overall experience. The trip was had to cede the bow to OCJ. That turned easy to arrange, the accommodations out to be a pattern. I missed opportuni- were good, and the guiding was incred- ties and timed out, and he promptly ible. The highlight of the trip for me was caught a fish on just about every turn he ing, and just took a nap. The next day watching OCJ catch a fish on his first took on the bow. We eventually left that the rain stopped and the overall weather cast. Of course, the overall size of the flat and found some deeper water, where improved significantly. I was paired up fish we caught and the beauty of the un- we spotted some bigger fish that, unfor- at that point with the final member of our pressured flats were great too. (We saw tunately, were just moving along in the party and with David Pinder as guide. a large sea turtle at one point chased by middle of the water column, not feeding Thanks largely to there being fewer a 10-foot shark!) The flies we used were aggressively. This made it impossible to clouds, we were able to see and catch typical bonefish patterns, and if your set up on them. Finally, though, I had a fish that day. Both David and Jeffrey cast was good, a fish took your fly. The shot at a decent-sized fish and was able have an amazing ability to spot fish, and total cost for five days of fishing (which to hook him. It turned out to be a mutton they put the boat in perfect position for ended up at four due to the weather) and snapper, not a bonefish. Still, it put up a casting. At one point during that day, we six nights of lodging was $3,600, plus great fight and it was nice for Jeffrey to spotted another large permit, but again tips. As mentioned above, breakfasts bring it home for dinner. Luckily, later the fish was directly upwind of us. I was were included at the hotel, and very nice in the afternoon, I was able to connect on the bow and just couldn’t make the lunches were provided on the boat. We with a nice bonefish as well. I think our necessary cast. We brought a spinning paid for our dinners separately. I hope final tally was five fish for OCJ and one rod that day to try and catch the cruising I will receive another invite for next bonefish for me with a bonus snapper. barracuda we had seen every day. Cast- April!” The other excitement of that day was our ing to them was an amazing experience. spotting a very large permit at one point. You have to have done this kind of fish- „„ Subscriber Ted Schmidt gives his He didn’t spook immediately, but he was ing to appreciate how fast a retrieve is multiday float trip down the Smith River an impossibly long, upwind cast away necessary to have any success. Watching in Montana this past June a rave review. from us, so we were unable to connect. them charge the lure with toothy open It was set up for him and five compan- I was glad I wasn’t on the bow at that mouth right up to the boat was exciting. ions by Montana Flyfishing Connection point. I ended the day landing five bonefish and (www.montanaflyfishingconnection.

October 2017 -9- Volume 30, Number 9 THE ANGLING REPORT com). The overall setup involved fly- just dry flies.” He goes on to say that he and knew their stuff. The unguided ing into Helena, he says, and flying broke the rod on the trip, but he was able fishermen we encountered along the out of Great Falls at the end of the trip. to keep fishing with a similar Sage rod way did not seem to be catching many “There were six of us fishing, and all us he borrowed from his guide. fish, apparently because they weren’t averaged 20-plus fish a day,” he writes. He has this say about the overall able to read the water and did not real- “About two-thirds of those were brown ambience of the trip: “The beauty of the ize the importance of fishing the cliff trout and one-third were rainbows, with canyon was breathtaking: high, steep, walls, especially crevices in the wall. an occasional cutthroat mixed in for and imposing cliff walls, heavy forest Importantly, this is a permit-only river, good measure. The size of the fish we absent of bark beetle damage. We saw so we didn’t see that many people. Few caught increased each day as we floated deer, eagles, osprey, falcons, beavers, of those we did see were fishermen. The downstream and the river widened. The and elk. Food was fabulous on the trip. majority were simply moving from one average-size fish on our first day was 12 Steaks, fettuccine, mahi-mahi, and pork preselected campsite to the next. The to 14 inches, but that worked its way up loin were among the entrees we enjoyed. campsites were absolutely beautiful, by toward 15 to 18 inches, with an occa- There were always fresh vegetables, the way, and spaced out for privacy with sional 20-incher mixed in.” fruit, and desert available, too, along built-in outhouses. The river is clearly Schmidt says 4 to 6 wt. rods with with the best cowboy coffee I ever had well managed by the state as a Blue Rib- floating fast forward lines did the trick in the mornings. You could stand up in bon fishery. Unfortunately, a proposed on this trip. He gives a special nod to a the tents! The staff was very attentive, mine on one of the feeder creeks, we brand-new Sage X5 he used on the trip. and you could tell they had all worked were told, may destroy the fishery. Right “It was beautiful, light as a feather, fast, together for many years and liked one now, this is a jewel of place to fish that and accurate.” He writes. “The weight another. The trip featured bottomless serious freshwater trout fly fishers need and everything else about the rod was beer and wine. As for the fishing, we to check out. Enjoy!” ideal for this river. We fished mostly dry- rotated guides daily. All of them had Postscript: Schmidt gives the cost of his dropper rigs and, when it was cloudy, guided this river for at least 10 years trip as $4,200, excluding airfare.

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October 2017 -10- Volume 30, Number 9 THE ANGLING REPORT

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October 2017 -11- Volume 30, Number 9 THE ANGLING REPORT

October 2017 -12- Volume 30, Number 9