by Irene Middleman Thomas Toads in the road, moose on the loose and a ‘bonjour’ on the lips Cycling Québec’s New Route Verte I knew I was in a French-speaking area well as from and the U.S, includ- second most populated. Most Québecers 40 years and is the creator and organizer of replete with various gour- gave me a toothless smile. as soon as I wheeled my suitcase through ing Adventure Cycling Association’s Jim live along or close to the banks of the St. such internationally famous events as the met goodies, as well as Yvon handed me his busi- the airport and saw several men with Sayer. Lawrence River, whereas the central and Tour de I’Ile de (the highlight my trusty French-English ness card and begged me to sweaters tossed on their backs, sleeves The Route Verte instantly becomes north portions of the province are sparsely of the Montreal Bike Fest) and Operation dictionary, the must-have write to him when I was all knotted casually yet elegantly below their one of the world’s finest mapped cycling populated and inhabited by the aborigi- Bike-to-Work. Its Velo Québec Voyages Route Verte itinerary and done with my journey. He necks. If you want to experience French networks. According to the nonprofit orga- nal, or First Nations, people of Canada. travel agency offers various cycling pack- map book, and a bottle of was the first of countless culture and be immersed in the language nization Velo Québec, the founding devel- Québec is home to 11 aboriginal nations, ages in and out of the province. sunscreen. At the end of amiable, helpful Québecers like perhaps nowhere else, try Canada’s oper of the Route Verte, the route will be with a population of about 80,000. The An outstanding way to plan a Québec August, it was hot and I met on my trip. Québec City and its environs. Tout le 90 percent completed by the end of 2007. official language of Québec is French, and cycling trip is with Ekilib, a full-service sunny enough for shorts, The townships are like monde (that means everyone) speaks This well-marked, diverse route connects it is the only Canadian province whose private travel and tour agency based in but a few of the maples New England – but French. French, and unlike in Paris, many really all regions of Québec — some vast and population is mainly French Canadian, and Montreal, that specializes in cycling trips were just starting to be tinged This area was first settled don’t speak English. It’s the perfect time rural, some landlocked and others fronting where English is not an official language. all over the world. Its 30 specialists can with the brilliant reds they’d show by British loyalists during the to visit, because Québec City is celebrat- water, some hilly and challenging, some Québec is the largest French-speaking expertly plan a combined cycling and sight- off in just a few weeks. The leaves rustled Revolution, and the architecture is replete ing its 400th anniversary in 2008 — and urban and lively. society in the Americas. seeing trip. Looking for a few days in as I cycled by in that end-of-summer crisp- with colonial homes and austere church- this spectacularly beautiful city is sprucing My recent experience felt much like Bordered on the west by the province Québec City to join the festivities and ness, and the sky was a brilliant blue. es along with incredible English gardens itself up in grand style with festivals, exhib- a glorious one-week journey to France of , James Bay, and Hudson Bay, check out a few of the marvelous museums Riding alongside Lake Boivin, my sad- in even the most modest yards. French its, and performances galore. — without much of the expense, travel Québec is bordered to the north by the and cultural venues? Ekilib can handle all dlebag started to rub against my tire, mak- Canadians later moved to the area in large Best of all, you can now bicycle the prov- time, and/or difficulty. And, in that week, Hudson Strait and Ungava Bay, to the east of the arrangements. ing a whirring noise. To the left of me, a numbers so that nowadays, although some ince’s new 4,000-kilometer (2,485-mile) I learned more (and used more) French by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the provinces I started my own adventure on the man pushing his elderly father in a wheel- towns still have large English-speaking Route Verte, internationally inaugurated than in three previous trips to France itself. of , Newfoundland, and Route Verte in Granby, a large town in the chair called “Madame!” and motioned for populations, French is predominant. The on August 10, 2007, after over 12 years of Exploring the Route Verte is a delightful, Labrador, and to the south by New York, Cantons de L’Est (Eastern Townships,) me to stop. (Although I hate being called region has maple-sugar tapping, wineries, planning, design, and construction, with unique way to know Québec — its coun- Vermont, New Hampshire, and . an area I must describe as charming, “Ma’am,” in English, I just love being called farms with round barns and hay bales, the involvement of nearly 1,000 organiza- tryside, its cities, and its people. Québec is a bicyclist’s oasis, with over even though that’s a no-no word for “Madame” in French!) In halting English, lakeside resort towns, babbling brooks and tions and businesses and a total cost of Québec, affectionately known as la 61 percent of adults owning a bicycle, and travel writing. There’s simply no other he asked if he could help me to adjust the raging rivers, apple orchards, lush forests, almost 170 million dollars. Representatives belle province (the beautiful province) is a third of the population cycling at least way to describe this region just over the bag and was very excited to hear I was foothills of the Appalachian Mountains, came from many European nations, as Canada’s largest province, as well as the once a week. Velo Québec has existed for border from Vermont, Maine, and New from faraway Colorado. His father, quite ski resorts, and some of the prettiest and Hampshire, that heartily welcomes bicy- dapper, just tipped his red plaid cap and best-run auberges, or inns, in which I’ve clists. In fact, it boasts the largest number of accommodations in Québec with a Bienvenue Cyclistes (Welcome Cyclists) certification. This designation offers spe- cific bicycling amenities such as locked shelters, basic tools, bicycle tourism infor- Push yourself. mation, etc. The 225-km (140-mile) Veloroute des Cantons (bike route of the townships) I fell in love with the way the FPs handled is part of the Route Verte. It runs from —such a smooth stiff wheel that it felt like Farnham to Danville, providing cyclists “someone was pushing me the whole ride. with access to travel by bike between –Jason Smith, weekend road racer, Flash-Point rider Montreal and Québec City while passing through the picturesque countryside and When you ride, you push yourself and the limits” of towns of the townships. I flew into Montreal and then drove to your bike. But isn’t it about time your bike pushed Granby in a rental car, a trip of about one as hard as you did? The all-new FP80 wheels and a half hours through broad, rolling from Flash-Point provide that push—slicing the air, countryside dotted with signs warning reducing drag with the same aerodynamic shape me of deer and moose crossings. Hot-air found in much more expensive equipment. balloons ascended in the fields beyond, It’s about time. with no billboards or roadside flotsam in sight. Arriving in Granby at the exquisite yet somewhat incongruously elegant St. Christophe Hotel, I had a bowl of hot soup www.Flash-PointRacing.com

LEFT AND OPENING SPREAD: G. THERIAULT / TOURISME ILES DE LA MADELEINE and rested up for the first day of my odys- Customer Service: 1-800-230-2387 sey en bicyclette. Off pavement. The Route Verte uses a medley of roads and paths to get you further into the countryside. A saddlebag held my fancy box lunch,

28 a d v e n t u r e c y c l i s t j a n u a r y 2008 adventurecycling . o r g a d v e n t u r e c y c l i s t j a n u a r y 2008 adventurecycling . o r g 29 Nuts & Bolts: Route Verte

Route Resources: individuals and group cyclists. www.routeverte.com, Eastern Townships Cycling, 514-521-8687 www.cantonsdeleste.com/velo Velo-Quebec, 514-521-8356, Taxi-Velo, 877-766-VELO CANADA www.velo.qc.ca Cyclo Services, 418-692-4052, NEW Tourism, 418-641- [email protected] Quebec City BRUNSWICK 6654, www.quebecregion.com Lodging: l Tourisme Quebec, 514-864- Le Vincent Auberge, 1935, www.bonjourquebec.com 418-523-5000, info@auber Society for the 400th gevincent.com ONTARIO l Anniversary of Quebec, Au Manoir de la rue Merry, Montreal Atlantic 418-648-2008, www.monque 819-868-1860, www.man USA bec2008.com oirmerry.com Ocean Travel Resources: Hotel Le Saint-Christophe, Ekilib Travel Agency, 450-405-4782, www.hotel 888-713-3311, www.ekilib.com. stchristophe.com 450-243-4272, www. A la Cornemuse, 819-842-1573, Offers all-inclusive tours for Auberge de Joli Vent, aubergedujolivent.com www.cornemuse.qc.ca

ever stayed. pletely at ease — and no one was there the shoulder of the road, I saw a strange As I cycled along the Route Verte, I was to impress. Almost everyone gave me a lump in the road and found that it was a struck by the cyclists I saw. Almost no cheery “bonjour” as they passed on my left, little toad, about the size of a half-dollar. one was in true cycling apparel — rather, and I began to do the same. It started to It was quite cute, and I tried to pick it up, I saw an oldster with polished loafers and feel as if I belonged to their community — but it dashed off into the grass. I assumed his nice slacks stuffed into his thick grey quite a pleasant feeling indeed. I would see much more of the area’s GEORGE FISHER / TOURISME ILES DE LA MADELEINE socks, plump middle-aged women with I smelled the delicious aromas of ripe nonhuman inhabitants. After all, I had eggplant-tinged hair, schoolchildren zoom- apples in the trees, fragrant honeysuckle, passed many signs warning of moose and Quaint beauty. If you like old-world style and elegance, cycling in Québec is for you. ing by with colorful backpacks, shirtless fresh-mown grass, and woodburning piles. deer. However, as it turned out, moose do by other cyclists that it is common to see on Lake Knowlton, not on the Route Verte women smoking — you know, just like guys who wouldn’t have dared display Sometimes I’d take deep breaths and revel not exactly seek human companionship, moose, deer, and even bears in Québec. but just a few miles away and well worth in France. I felt pretty cool myself cycling their bulging bellies in the body-conscious in the joys of cycling alone, at my own so my hopes were dashed. I did see large I spent three days in the townships, a side trip for its Swiss gourmet chef and up and feeling smug about what I had just U.S., and even several people who stopped pace with the freedom of stopping and numbers of deer, but not while cycling. (I cycling to delightful Magog, with its huge, lovely swimming pool. I finished up after a accomplished, but frankly no one seemed by the side to have a smoke. Rollerbladers going whenever I wanted to. Other times, must admit, they were munching on grass blue lake and flower-bedecked little town brisk ride to , a small city just too impressed. After all, several other bikes shared the path — again, I was surprised I wished there was someone to share all outside of the Québec airport when I drove center. It was heaven to swim in the 20 minutes from the border of Vermont, were parked along the roadside, just as they to see jiggly women in their fifties and the beauty. there early on the last morning.) The toad, refreshing (and not too cold!) lake after bik- where I enjoyed lunch at a sidewalk café always are in Québec. even sixties, as well as typical young hip- I arrived at the rest stop in Waterloo, a few chipmunks, and squirrels were, in ing all day and to stay in the incredibly cozy that seemed to be transported from Europe. I spent a restful night at the intimate sters with their well-toned legs bulging. a largish town and sat down to enjoy my fact, the only wildlife I saw other than Au Manoir de la rue Merry. The Auberge The menu written on the small blackboard, Scottish-themed Cornemuse in North Everyone seemed comfortable and com- picnic lunch. As I stepped off the bike onto birds and insects, but I’ve been assured du Joli Vent, another inn I loved, was right the little dogs sitting around, the chic Hatley, where I looked out on endless

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30 a d v e n t u r e c y c l i s t j a n u a r y 2008 adventurecycling . o r g a d v e n t u r e c y c l i s t j a n u a r y 2008 adventurecycling . o r g 31 pletely visible from Levis, including the towering Montmorency Falls, which look like a wide white stripe from the other side of the river. I can’t think of a place more perfect W for cycling than diverse, friendly Québec — with its new Route Verte, a cyclist’s dream. Next time, I plan to visit Montreal’s W Lachine Canal, the most popular bike in Canada. It runs alongside an old canal with a restored and functioning W lock system. I’d like to see the Abitibi- Temiscamingue area, with its deep lakes, x and wilderness, and nights of floating northern lights. The Laurentians, north of Montreal, feature the 200-kilometer (124-mile) P’tit Train du Nord Trail. One I

of the finest touring routes in the province, G. THERIAULT / TOURISME ILES DE LA MADELEINE Coastal splendor. There’s no lack of seacoast or lighthouses on the Route Verte. it traverses a top Canadian resort area. R meadows and hills fronted by a verdant (an excellent and well-located bike shop) Most of all, as a water lover, I yearn to see golf course and enjoyed a sumptuous delivered my rental bike, and I was off to the Gaspe Peninsula, a spit of land jutting breakfast prepared by Jocelyn, the mus- explore Old Town. Riding through the out into the Atlantic. This windswept O tachioed owner. It was then time for the cobbled lanes, topped by houses with gera- region, with its steep cliffs and salty mist, Taxi-Velo to pick up my bike and me for nium-filled window boxes, I felt thrilled, as coastal villages and sea-battered coves, calls x Self-Guided Itineraries the trip back to Granby, where I had left if I had entered another time. Again, pass- to me. It’ll be a challenge, as the Route N my rental car. Taxi-Velo is a new service ers-by nodded and smiled their “Bonjours” Verte climbs a bit here, but it offers a big offered by three cab companies. All along to me, and I felt so welcome — not like a reward at the end with Chaleur Bay, con- x Guided Group Itineraries the Eastern Townships section of the tourist at all. sidered one of the most beautiful bays in D Route Verte, taxis equipped with racks will After shopping and exploring Québec the world. x Custom Group PygmyItineraries products... Protect your essentials pick cyclists up within the hour. You can City’s Old Town, I bought a $2.50 ticket Je me souviens is Québec’s motto, one also book in advance, and service is offered to take my bike across the St. Lawrence you’ll see on every license plate. It means, O Protects your drivetrain every day at all times. to Levis, another town where the Route loosely “I remember.” How could anyone in from the elements when Arriving in Québec City, I stayed at the Verte runs in both directions of the river. ever forget Québec? It will remain engraved transporting your bikeN new Auberge le Vincent, a small ten-room The ferry is actually considered part of on my memories and in my heart — and inn in an artsy, eclectic part of town. I was the Route Verte, and many other cyclists I’ve just touched the surface of its many IRELAND2007 Keeps grease off of car’s upholstery delighted to see that the “Vincent” was in joined me in both directions. The route in pleasures. keeps grease off of bikeK boxes when honor of Van Gogh, and that the lobby Levis was delightful, just slightly hilly with you’re shipping your bikes floor was painted with an enormous copy excellent views of the wide river as well Irene Middleman Thomas is a Colorado-based writer ITALY of his “Starry, Starry Night,” one of my as of residential neighborhoods, schools and the 2004 winner of the Plume de Plata. For more Pygmy pack: $44.99 + s&H I-800-281-0197 www.pygmypack.comE Pygmy pack 2: $69.95 +s&h favorite paintings. After a blissful night’s and everyday French-Canadian life. The information, visit www.irenethomas.com. ENGLAND sleep, a nice chap from Cyclo Services spectacular skyline of Québec City is com- WALES Y Pygmy products... Protect your essentials x Protects your drivetrain from the *SCOTLAND (new) elements when transporting your bike *SPAIN (new) C Keeps grease off of car’s upholstery Keeps grease off of bike boxes when you’re shipping your bikes O 1-800-281-0197 www.pygmypack.com M I-800-281-0197 www.pygmypack.com PYGMY PACK 2: $79.95 +S&H Pygmy products... ProtectProtect your your essentials essentials PYGMY PACK: $59.95 + S&H 2008 Pygmy products... ProtectsProtects your your drivetrain drivetrain 32 a d v e n t u r e c y c l i s t j a n u a r y 2008 adventurecycling . o r g fromfrom the theelements elements when when transportingtransporting your your bike bike

KeepsKeeps grease grease off ofoff car’s of car’s upholstery upholstery

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PygmyPygmy pack: pack: $44.99 $44.99 + s&H + s&H I-800-281-0197I-800-281-0197 www.pygmypack.com www.pygmypack.com PygmyPygmy pack pack 2: $69.95 2: $69.95 +s&h +s&h