10.00- 21.00; summer 9.00 -23.00) Tip 2: The panorama view 1 National Museum of Contemporary History B B from the tower is spectacular (winter 10.00- 19.00, summer free map for young travellers Tues-Sun 10.00-18.00, Mon closed airport 29km 9.00-21.00). You should see this. Prices between €3.00 and In front of the museum (MUZEJ NOVEJŠE ZGODOVINE) there 1 €8.00 tourist made by locals is a tank guarding contemporary history. History changes, but 27 Climbing Spots: 2 0 1 1 the tanks remain. The museum contains a snappy display of Open air climbing spots: Roman Wall on Mirje, near Aškerčeva edition contemporary history, from the beginning of the 20th century. by day ulica or on . 28 Tea House offices 2 Tivoli Mon–Frid 09.00–22.30; Sat 09.00 – 15.00 and 18.00 – 22.30 Opening hours: Man, this TIVOLI park is big. Step one: the International Centre Raft (40) @ If you need a health boost after another party night, try one 1 October to 31 May: 8.00-19.00 of Graphic Arts in Tivoli Mansion if you’re interested in graphic Camp (41) i of the black, green and red teas in ČAJNA HIŠA CHA (also a 1 June to 30 September: 8.00-21.00 design (Wed-Sun 10.00-18.00, €3.50). shop). Peaceful and polite, like a teahouse should be. Try the The tourist offices on the map have free city maps, books and Step two: the National Museum of Contemporary History if B B Mu-Dan or Jasmine dragon. guides of Ljubljana, postcards with stamps, souvenirs, and they recent history is your thing (every day 10.00-18.00, €2,50/ B 29 Intercontinental Coffee book guided tours and offer information on accommodation. The €3,50). Step three: run to the top of Rožnik hill. Step four: a mountain looks like boobs, Mon-Fri 7.30-19.00, Sat-Sun 9.00-14.00 tourist office in the central market (next to the castle funicular) ice-cream, coffee, cake in ČOLNARNA on Tivoli lake, where 45’ walk CAFETINO is where you find coffee beans from Sumatra, also has internet and rents bikes. you will be accompanied by hungry sparrows flying around 4H1 Brazil or Kenya. You can actually make your own mix, and rest . the table… Lazy blighters can also forget about step one, two @ assured: these coffee experts will steam it perfectly. Known Location: and three, but the park is really worth the trip, with lanterns šmarna gora Stadium (42) by locals for pure reliability and the outdoor terrace. Coffee OFFICE AT THE RAILWAY STATION designed by – who else? – the national architect Plečnik. €1.20. Trg Osvobodilne fronte 6 3 Watch your step! @ 30 Spin a Record LJUBLJANA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE (TIC) Mon – Frid 9.00 – 24.00, Sat – Sun 12.00 – 16.00 H6H7 B Mon – Frid 11.00 – 19.00, Sat 11.00 – 14.00, Sun 11.00 - 13.00 Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 2 This is a traditional restaurant with a great historical back- + Rock’n’Roll by the river bank. Second-hand rock, underground, SLOVENIAN TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE (STIC) ground. FIGOVEC. A legend says that the greatest Slovenian 5 jazz, alternative, blues, electronic and classical music on LP, Krekov trg 10 poet was giving figs as a present to kids, but the truth is that CD and DVD, but make sure you meet the SPIN VINYL staff. this house was a horse station. It is not hard to imagine that a People say this is the place to be – inevitable for all vinyl lot of fig liked »products« were placed around the house. 3 + freaks. TO THE AIRPORT: Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport 4 Prison Hostel i 2 B 31 Chill out with a Slovenian “Strudel“ - The cheapest way to and from the airport is with BUS at bus Selected in 2006 as the hippest hostel in the world! CELICA Mon – Sat 09.00 – 24.00, Sun 09.00 – 22.00 stop 28. changed from a military prison to the first real Ljubljana hostel 6 Maximally tasty desserts and coffee served in special cups in One-way ticket €4.10; buy at the bus station or on the bus. 45 in July 2003. A different artist designed each of the 29 “cells”. @ the MAXIMAL bar just next to the River. Chill-out minutes ride. Even if you think it’s too odd to stay here, you’re welcome to 6 H2H3 and jazz music. A perfect place to relax. - HABE with 24/24 service. One-way ticket €8. Call on +386 40 stop by for a cappuccino on the terrace. Jam sessions on B B 32 Saturday Art Market & Sunday Flea Market 771 771 or +386 41 362 079 or Ljubljana Transfer (+386 160 Tuesdays. 25 Sat & Sun 08.00 – 14.00 01 401) or Transports Markun (+386 41 792 865) www.souhostel.com H5H6 11 10 A sense of Montmartre by the river on Saturdays before lunch- - The last and the most expensive choice is a TAXI, but then you 5 Feel and See Slovenian B B B break. On Sundays people actually come from Austria or Italy pay at least €35. LJUBLJANA Tues-Sun 10.00-18.00, Mon&Holidays closed LJUBLJANA 13 for this BOLJŠI TRG with bath tubs, wooden baby carriages, TO THE RAILWAY STATION H3H4 Free entrance: every last Sunday in a month H7H8 9 @ 6 10 records and many portraits of the charismatic former Yugoslav Trg Osvobodilne fronte 6, t:+386 1 291 33 32 The Slovene Ethnographic Museum (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ) B 12 leader Tito (quite a dandy!). Salesmen are very talkative, you’ll TO THE BUS STATION WhereThe capital all of europe of meets – a museum “about people, for people”, a museum of cultural 16 Waterpark (43) notice. If you’re smart and experienced you can even bargain Trg Osvobodilne fronte 4, t:+386 1 234 46 00 identities, the link between the past and the present, between 17 B for a sharper price. Slovenian and other cultures, between nature and civilisation. 7 14 33 Book Asylum H4H5 18 15 B 6 Museum 4U 8 B Mon-Fri 10.00-20.00, Sat 10.00-14.00 Tues-Sun 10.00-18.00 i i KNJIGARNA AZIL IN BELETRINA. Here you can get some rest find-it act like a local Museums – a lot of them around this area. MUSEUM OF 19 by drinking a good coffee and dipping into a book from the MODERN ART (Moderna Galerija: www.mg-lj.si) is your best shelves. In this bookshop you’ll find books that have already Hostels: The symbol of Ljubljana is a dragon, the castle is on a hill, and the restaurants by the river introduction to Slovenian modern and contemporary painting, B been lost and have found a place on the shelf again. For book 1. Hostel Celica, 8 are very jolly. Hey, you know all that! Then it’s time to start acting like a local. sculpture, photography and mixed media. Across the street B lovers. 2. Alibi, Cankarjevo nabrežje 27 The two most popular beers are Laško and Union, both produced by the same brewery. Al- you find the NATIONAL GALLERY (Narodna Galerija: www. 20 21 34 Plečnik’s National Library 3. Youth Hostel Park, Tabor 9 though the difference in taste is not very big, we make a big deal out of it. Laško is just a bit stronger. ng-slo.si) with a collection from the previous centuries and oc- 22 Open the door handle in the shape of a horse’s head. Head 4. H2Ostel, Petkovškovo nabrežje 47 Hence the expression “In Slovenia we drink Laško and piss Union”. casional photography exhibitions (€2.90 for students/ €4.20). upstairs and look back. The top part of the marble columns 5. Vila Veselova, Veselova ulica 14 Real museum fans can continue a bit further with the nicely Hovever, if you don’t drink alcohol, you can order a bottle of real 100% genuine authentic Slovenian 24 23 is smooth, but the lower part is rough which looks like a 6. Alibi M14 hostel, Miklošičeva 14 old fashioned SLOVENIAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY reflection in a lake. Do you see it? This remarkable NARODNA 7. Zeppelin Hostel, Slovenska 47 ‘Cockta’ Cola. 26 (www2.pms-lj.si) with its fossils and Hstuffed animals (€2.50/ H1H2 UNIVERZITETNA KNJIŽNICA is the work of the architect called 8. Fluxus hostel, Tomšičeva 4 After a long night out, take the Metro home. Huh? No, there is no subway, but Metro is the €3). The same building hosts the NATIONAL MUSEUM OF Plečnik (1872-1957). He also speaks to your imagination in the Cyber cafe: cheapest taxi company. They have a free phone number, and Ljubljana people have it in their mobile SLOVENIA (Narodni muzej Slovenije: www.narmuz-lj.si), the Zoo impressive reading room with lamps that look like recycled •, Kersnikova 6 phones. Ask any of us to call them. oldest Museum in Slovenia. It preserves, investigates and 31 28 27 trumpets. But remember it’s a trap if you don’t know the card Getting there by city bus •CyberCafe Xplorer, Trubarjeva 9 It looks like Ljubljana dies on Sunday, but that’s because we are all up on the Rožnik hill presents the mobile cultural heritage of Slovenia (€2.50/ €3). B 32 30 system of getting in – a lot of tourists actually got locked in. •Knjižnica Otona Župančiča, Trg OF 10, Vilharjev podhod The combined price for the last two museums is €5. No.14 (direction ) 34 33 29 Don’t yell – it is a real library you know. next to Tivoli Park. Bring a bottle of wine and twenty friends, and join us. Don’t forget your moonboots and ZOO bus (from the main •Travel Cafe & STA, Trg Ajdovščina 1 7 The Big Bookshop 35 B 35 Le Petit Café •STIC, Krekov trg 10 in the winter. Mon-Fri 9.00-19.30, Sat 9.00-14.00 station) Every day 07.30 – 24.00 Rent a bike: National anthems are usually boring, but check the Slovenian one. Instead of “Land of One day a guy left a rucksack full of books here with a note Trendy, French-style place with a terrace under big trees • The Slovenian Tourist Information Centre (STIC): Krekov trg 10 hope and glory and let’s smash all the other countries”, our song is called something like “Let’s have saying, “I’ve graduated and thank you for the books. Now 36 B that lets through just enough rays of sun to make you happy. • Antiq Hotel , Gornji trg 3 a toast”. It was written by the nineteenth century national poet Prešeren, and it’s really a great song. I’m returning them.” He’d stolen them all, but respected the B Famous for French breakfast, delicious croissants and their “le • Business , Miklošičeva cesta 3 KONZORCIJ bookstore too much… For 60 years already, petit café”. In the back you’ll hear French chansons, while in One souvenir tip: buy Preseren chocolate balls for your girlfriend, or a comic by Miki Mus- • Ljubljana Resort , Dunajska cesta 270 this has been the biggest bookshop in Ljubljana. You can find the summer you can hear the music from the Križanke open ter for your boyfriend (not to be confused with Mickey Mouse, that was just the guy’s name). • Central Hotel , Miklošičeva cesta 9 comics in there too, like the Slovenian classics of Miki Muster air theatre. When you agree with something, say “AiAAA”. We do it all the time. It sounds a bit like a • M Hotel, Derčeva ulica to Stripburger (these guys are known all over Europe, with 36 City Museum Of Ljubljana bird falling from a tree. 27 B headquarters in Metelkova). Tues-Sun 10.00-18.00, Mon closed tel: 080 2334 Moški means ‘men’ and Ženske means ‘women’. Especially if you get it wrong as a boy, a 8 Maps and Travel Guides Mestni muzej Ljubljana. The museum is situated in more www.bicikelj.si very muscled Slovenian woman will kick you out in no time. Mon – Thurs 7.00 – 01.00, Fri 07.00 – 03.00, Sat 08.30 – 03.00 locations, however, its central Auersperg Palace has just Lose some vowels. Flafl, Trst, Trg, Trnfest and Smrkci are real Slovenian words, you know. And if you Coffee bar: Mon-Thu 7.00-1.00, Fri 7.00-3.00, Sat 9.00-3.00. been renovated into a modern museum. Discover the spirit of can say “čevapčići” ten times after a few beers, you don’t need this map anymore. Travelling the world? The big collection of maps and friendly the city in its exhibition on the history of Ljubljana (€2.5 for Hello and goodbye between man and woman mostly is expressed by three kisses. But ladies behind the desk in GEONAVTIK BOOKSHOP will map out students/€4), or just listen to the free summer concerts in the your path for sure. Lonely Planet guides and the specialties of carefully on cheek only! Any other ideas could be misunderstood. Men don’t kiss. Men shake hands! museum courtyard. The museum offers a lot for everyone, and festivals the house: nautical literature and sailing maps. If you take 5 it’s all about the story of Ljubljana. People living in Ljubljana are called frogs. Perhaps because there was a swamp in prehis- minutes off your time, you can drink coffee, beer or something 37 Botanical Garden MAY toric times but mainly because this is the only Slovenian city where “what?” is “kva?”, which sounds else in the Geonavtik nautical pub just next door. hostel Go for a walk in BOTANIČNI VRT? Why not? This year – 2010 -Drugagodba (world music, jazz) like a frog. 9 Recycled Vinyl 39 flowers and trees are celebrating the garden’s 200th birthday. www.drugagodba.si The nut cake Potica is the national pride. You can get it in supermarkets, bakeries and Mon-Fri 10.00 – 19.00, Sat 10.00 – 13.00 There are more than 4500 different varieties of domestic and JUNE – AUGUST sweets shops. There is a competition between mums, grandmothers, and aunts on which potica This place located in a dark alley is a goldmine for vinyls and shopping 38 foreign flora like Helleborus orientalis. Exciting! Free entry. -Ljubljana Jazz Festival (jazz, mostly open-air) looks and tastes better. The recipe of another cake, the Prekmurska gibanica, has become protected tapes from the last century. Even some London DJ’s come to 38 Bears in the city? pick records up in VOM. Slovenian bands like Siddharta and www.ljubljanajazz.si by legal regulation as a national culinary speciality. Yes, we take our cakes seriously. Get lost in the green wood of GOLOVEC in the middle of Laibach on CD start at €8, but the limited editions are not eating Ljubljana. Not as crowded as Tivoli Park and with a labyrinth of -Live Literature Festival OK, all you brave girls and boys, remember this. No matter HOW drunk you are, and cheap. Nice souvenir: a 1961 vinyl signed by former Yugosla- discovered and undiscovered paths where people are running, www.skuc.org no matter HOW much you really really feel like it, NEVER jump in the Ljubljanica river. It’s kind of vian leader Tito for €10. cycling or letting out the dog. There even used to be signs out -Mini Summer - international puppet festival unhealthy. 10 S.0.S. there with “If you see a bear, please call …”. -Ana Desetnica (street theatre) Mon-Sat 09.00 – 01.00; Sun 12.00 – 01.00 sightseeing 39 Nothing to do? www.anadesetnica.org Meet food, talk to people, taste the Orient; spend €3 to keep Want to catch some sun by the river? Then try TRNOVSKI -Ljubljana Summer Festival (classical music, open-air cinema) your rumbling stomach quiet. PRISTAN during hot days. This is Ljubljana’s longest coast. www.ljubljanafestival.si 11 My Way (of Life) B B bike rent Take a break, meet the locals and maybe somebody is looking -Dream Festival (music & literature in the park) tourist info Jazz Blues Ploščarna for those who like the smell of a 180g for a date. It’s the perfect kissing spot at night. www.sanje.si/dogodki.php vinyl and spend an afternoon chatting with a legendary owner -Trnfest (big non-mainstream cultural festival) www.visitljubljana.si B 40 Rafting in Ljubljana of the shop. Jazz and blues goes with the vibe and food of the kissing spot Refresh your stay in Ljubljana with RAFTING on the Sava River www.kud-fp.si TOURIST INFO street. This is your moment. 37 Y near Ljubljana or a CYCLING & RAFTING roundtrip. Exciting -Young Lions (theatre and dance) Shops are usually open from 08.00 to 19.00, Saturdays from 08.00 to 13.00 and closed on Sundays. 12 Four Dragons Bridge & Butcher’s Bridge and completely safe. Suitable for everyone. Possible every -Nights in Ljubljana Old Town (mini festival closing the Summer It’s not common to eat late in Slovenia, you usually go to dinner at 20.00 and the restaurants stop serving food The former wooden Butcher’s Bridge was rebuilt in 1901 and day. Complete equipment is provided – life jacket, helmet, in Ljubljana Old Town) around 22.00. Only fast food places are open late in the night. renamed the DRAGON BRIDGE. On each side there is a pair i info wetsuit, wetshoes and anorak, so all you need is your swim- -Emona Promenade 2011 (International street festival-perfor- You can’t smoke in bars and restaurants, because of the law. of guarding dragons, looking really scary. Why? In old Greek suit and a T-shirt. The meeting point SKOK SPORT centre is mances for audiences of all ages) You can buy alcohol in shops and gas stations only from 10.00-21.00. times, Jason and the Argonauts were fleeing from a king, row- 5 minutes walk accessible from Ljubljana city centre directly by city bus. SEPTEMBER BIKES ing upstream on a river. Around Ljubljana, they came across + medical aid 41 A tent in my backpack? -Ex Ponto (theatre) Check the rent a bike points on the map a big horrible swamp monster and killed it. Strangely enough, Ljubljana Resort. Are you tired? You love camping? Want to www.exponto.net CITY BUSES it was the beaten monster (and not the winner Jason) who OCTOBER 21 City Hall Patio wine smell in the air: DVORNI BAR is famous for its 100 open stay longer? No problem. Ljubljana offers a perfect place to City buses are operated by LPP. URBANA public transport card available at LPP ticket offices, tourist information became a symbol of Ljubljana. You will find the dragon on all -The city of women 14 Flower Street 17 The Centre of the Centre 19 The Sweetest Thing Every day 9.00-20.00 bottles, ready to serve in the glass. Ljubljana’s most classy put your tent up near the river, swimming pool, sports, food, centres and most of the city’s newspaper kiosks, news-stands and post offices. The card is priced at €2.00 the silly tourist souvenirs, from fridge magnets to slippers. The (contemporary arts) Every morning (Sun&Holidays closed) PREŠEREN SQUARE is the perfect meeting point in Ljubljana. Mon-Sat 7.00-23.00, Sun 10.00-20.00 The Venetian façade of the City Hall already looks good on ev- terrace. Taste the music, snack and dance with a glass of wine, bungalows. Take the city bus number 6 or 8 in the direction of Single journey €0.80 for up to 90-minute journey regardless number of buses or destination. Butcher’s Bridge was back in 2010! www.cityofwomen.org Fruit and veg market. Also check the nicely perfumed side The statue guy is the most famous Slovenian poet, France Mention ZVEZDA to anyone in Ljubljana, and they’ll smile. In ery picture, but if you like it outside just step inside and admire meet Ljubljana’s soul mates. Cosy & groovy. Ježica or Črnuče. You’ll be surprised. TAXI 13 Explore Cyber Space NOVEMBER street of Dolničarjeva ulica, where they only sell flowers. From Prešeren (1800-1849), who wrote the Slovene national anthem this modern high-class patisserie you get top quality ice cream the interior with Spanish style patio: niiice! For free. 25 Mlinček - sladki bar 42 STADION AND ARENA STOŽICE ˝Kdor ne skače ni Taxi prices are lowest if you are ready for negotiation. Some taxis have a free telephone number so you can ask Xplorer Cyber Café, Mon-Fri 10.00-22.00, Sat-Sun 12.00-22.00 -LIFFe €1 for a rose. (with lots of appeals to make toasts) and is on the Slovene €2 and cakes that will make your eyes spin. You can run into 22 Slovenian Salt Mon-Sat 8.00-01.00, Sun 9.00-23.00 Sloven’c (meaning if you don’t jump you’re not a Slovenian” any local to call it for you. Cyber surfing 5 hours for 6 . How? Just go to Trubarjeva ulica (Ljubljana International Film Festival) € coins. If you’re bored you can sit by the statue and watch the some famous people, especially some politicians who you’ll Mon – Frid 09.00 – 21.00, Sat– Sun 09.00 – 17.00 Chain of stores with tradition, specialising in making pasta, … sooooo, if you want to be a Slovenian – for a short while near posh shopping centre. Do you still think that you need the www.liffe.si 15 Fishmarket people passing by. However, there is a lot of action around it never recognize. Anyway, everyone is delighted by the cakes, Ever seen a shop specialized in salt? On the Slovenian coast, milled and pastry products as well as other similar products at least – then you just need to jump and scream with the waves of the sea to surf? We say NO. All you need is a cup of Every morning on The beside it, and in the “Tromostovje” coffee nice service and handsome waiters. For all sugar addicts! Try people still harvest salt out of the sea in the traditional way. In They trust nature and thus swear by the exclusive use of crowd). DECEMBER good coffee and a few Euros in your pocket. In the centre! The fish market was built by the Slovene main bar. Prešeren is staring eternally at his love and muse Juliet, of Rafaello cake. PIRANSKA SOL they sell this salt in all different ways (even in naturally produced ingredients. Some of the test products have Hall Arena is a huge venue for the biggest teams and great- -Christmas Market (in Ljubljana Old Town) Other places for cyber surfing: STIC, Kiberpipa, Ljubljana Met- est artists. All year long: architect Plečnik around 1940, and it’s still in action. A must- whom there is a little statuette across the square 20 Cultural Palace chocolate). A 1kg bag of salt costs €4.50. been awarded. They offer grain bio coffee drinks and pastries. ropolitan Library, Railway Station Passage; STA Cyber Café. see and a must-smell! 18 The Small Bookshop In the 1970-s the famous Romanian conductor Sergiu 23 The Beach 43 Water Metropolis Open-air gallery: Tivoli park: Jakopičevo sprehajališče WI-FI: around the city, in coffee shops and bars. Explore con- 16 Cacao Mon – Frid 09.00 – 19.30; Sat 08.30 – 13.00 Celibidache led the Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra. The The bars next to the water are also known as the beach. In 26 Ljubljana Castle Adventure World and Thermal Temple: Mon-Thurs 9.00 21.00, June - September: Art and Flea market (Breg; Ljubljanica river nectivity by yourself. Every day 08.00 – 24.00 Mladinska knjiga bookshop is not the biggest one, but it’s impressive CANKARJEV DOM, one of Europe’s largest cultural places like MAČEK, CORSO and RANDEVU, it’s not unusual to May-Sept 09.00-22.00; Oct-Apr 10.00-21.00 Fri-Sun&Holidays: 9.00-22.00; Sauna Land 9.00-23.00 bank) Ice creammmm! CACAO is the proud owner of a brand new gained cult status. The bookstore is also a salon, the meeting centres, was immediately built for the biggest concerts, wear sunglasses in wintertime. These are definitely still the This is definitely the most-visited attraction in Ljubljana, and It isn’t an ancient island somewhere around Gibraltar, but you Check the dates: terrace, brimming at all times. A great place to admire the point of all those looking for the newest selection of literature national events, theatre and dance events, as well as films, “must be” spots of the city. you should go up there, too. Tip 1: Take a nice uphill walk. This can find it right in Ljubljana. ATLANTIS Water Park, sport, -Fabula literatures of the World For year between 23 April 2010 and 23 April 2011, goings on at Prešeren Square on one side, and the river on the from all around the world. English books from international festivals and congresses. The photography and art exhibitions 24 Read a coffee, drink a book means flower aromas in the summer, and sliding fun in winter. relaxation and entertainment centre. Atlantis always makes www.festival-fabula.org Ljubljana was the tenth city hold the prestigious World other. The sun and the eternal smiles of the service do the rest. authors, but also translated Slovene ones, try some of them as are usually worth a visit. We also come here in the evening, to Every day 8.00-01.00, Sun 9.00-24.00 If you have pain in your legs or you just want to enjoy the sure that no one is bored. -Vilenica and Ljubljana (literary evening series) Book Capital title, awarded by UNESCO. WhereThe capital all of europe of Slovenia meets a souvenir. Have some coffee. Perhaps you’ll be surprised. warm up with a movie or a concert before going out. Fashionable modern wood interior, relaxing ethno music and a Ljubljana view, you should go with the tourist funicular (winter www.vilenica.si 1 Hot Horse Prešeren because he left some space for a summer bar on the famous Slovenian architect Plečnik for concerts and festivals. Tue-Sun 09.00 – 06.00, Mon 10.00 -06.00 main square! Not only is the location so great, so are the daily The yard in front of KRIŽANKE is always open to the public, Follow your nose and find yourself in Tivoli Park. You can’t miss live performances. Easy listening music with a beer (€3.30). except when it’s reserved for special occasions or concerts. 5 minutes of history it! Horse is the only meat you’ll get in the fast food restaurant What else do you need? Big names have performed here, mostly during the summer with pop music for the not-too-critical masses. €2.5 to €5.5. Ljubljana by night festival period. The amphitheatre has amazing acoustics, and Ljubljana, so the legend goes, was created by the mythological Greek hero Jason. When he 23 Please, Please Me, Oh Yeah! it’s a point of honour for the city that they ban traffic in the accidentally arrived in this part of the world with the Argonauts, he took on the monster that lived in 2 Crazy with a K Mon-Wed, Sun 07.00 – 02.00; Thurs, Fri, Sat 07.00 – 03.00 street next to it when there is a concert going on to keep the the Ljubljanica River and killed it. This monster was the Ljubljana Dragon, which today rests at the top Tue-Sun 20.00 – 04.00, Mon Closed kino šiška (47) 1 Tribute to the good old times with club HUGO BARRERA, sound as pure as can be. of the Ljubljana Castle tower. The underground of Ljubljana’s night: “Ka shtiri” is how you where you can go with the flow... Meet the beat, funky, jazzy, www.ljubljanafestival.si disco & rock’n’roll by the river. Coffee or tea after visiting one This area was originally settled by “Mostiščarji” (pile dwellers). They lived in pile pronounce K4. Different styles for different nights: from rock to techno or drum’n bass, don’t forget the Erasmus student 6 of the best vegetable and fish markets ever. dwellings, wooden settlements, rammed into the bottom of the moors. If you can’t find accommoda- parties, usually on Wednesdays. Loved by the crowd, this has 37 Late-night dive tion and you’re up for a dare, you might like to try your luck and attempt to survive in this area of the always been a good place for unpolished parties. Check out 24 Hawking the taste Mon– Frid 6.30 – 3.00, Sat – Sun 17.00 – 3.00 Ljubljana Moors called Barje. the flyers in the music stores or bars. Every day 06.00 – 23.00 Where to go when everything’s shut? POD SKALCO: the only In Roman times the city known today as Ljubljana got its first name, Emona. It was secured www.klubk4.org 4 5 Falcon = SOKOL; sack a snack before noon for €4.00, or bar open till 3 in the morning, and opening again three hours by strong city walls, which are well preserved and can be seen today. afternoon lunch for about €7.50; later. Filled with nighthawks, this 300-year-old building brings In the 13th century, under the Habsburg power, the city was renamed Laibach. 3 B&W movies H14 Traditional cuisine combined with home brewed beer and a rock back to town with seventies hits and documentary pics In the 16th century Ljubljana became the centre of Protestant culture. In 1550, Primož The classics have come to town! Since 1996 KINOTEKA large selection of Slovene wines. of Ljubljana. Foreigners feel at home right away. No place to dance, only beer and coffee drinking is allowed. Trubar published the first Slovenian book, Catechism and the Alphabet. serves movie fanatics with 2 3 In the 17th century the Baroque came to add a new gust of wind to the Renaissance. During retrospectives, classic black and whites and silent films with 25 Vinoteka MOVIA this period most of the churches were renovated in the Baroque style. live music. With a brand new old-fashioned auditorium like this H6H7 Mon-Sat 12.00 – 24.00 38 Never take life seriously Under French occupation and the leadership of Napoleon in the 19th century, Ljubljana be- it’s impossible not to enjoy a good movie. Always subtitled in Lovers and wine lovers, Vinoteka MOVIA is your spot! As Mon–Wed 09.00 – 24.00, Thurs 09.00 – 01.30, Fri 09.00 – summer, 3 sessions per day. 1.50 with student card. 7 Slovenia is on the crossroads of cultures and climates, the 02.00, Sat 17.00 – 01.00, Sun 17.00 – 24.00 came the capital of the Illyrian Provinces. This period was also the most creative period of the greatest € www.kinoteka.si Slovenes have been harvesting different kinds of grapes for ZELENI ZAJEC = Green Rabbit – Ljubljana’s house party style Slovenian poet France Prešeren, who belonged to the Romantic Era. A part of his heritage is also the 24 centuries. Specialties include Cviček from Dolenjska and vintage bar. Guests are allowed to bring friends to this place. Zdravljica (Toast), which has become the Slovenian national anthem. 4 Art movie house and meeting point Refošk from the Koper area. Make yourself comfortable on the Meet the green rabbit and you’ll be back. Dancing shoes? Why In 1918, after the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Ljubljana became the adminis- Hollywood and popcorn don’t live here. Prices: no big deal. terrace and see how far you can go in tasting the more than 50 not?! trative, political and cultural centre of Slovenia in the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. KINODVOR, the very first theatre built for movies in Ljubljana, different kinds ... €3 for a glass. 39 Špajza During the period between the two wars much of the town was formed by an architect dates from 1923. It used to be a porn cinema where mostly Mon – Sat 12.00 – 23.00, Sun 12.00 – 22.00 whose work found a harmony between the Roman Baroque and the German Art Nouveau styles. His soldiers came, but after a recent renovation it’s become H2H3 26 Happy hour skeletons Time for a romance. The candles on the table in Špajza give 15 impact was so strong that it left a label on this architectural period of the city as Plečnik’s Ljubljana. dedicated to quality European and world cinema. The theatre 14 Every day 10.00-03.00; happy hour: always! just enough light to read the menu with traditional Slovenian After World War II, Ljubljana became the capital of Slovenia, one of the six federal states of hall in red velvet makes you go back in time. Some Slovenian 11 This riverside basement dive is Ljubljana’s most bizarre fare and a Mediterranean accent. In summertime the terrace H5H6 Yugoslavia. celebrities and politicians tagged “their” velvet chairs with 13 10 theme bar, filled with alive and kicking, moving and vibrating is highly recommended. Not the cheapest place, but if you like donations. Subtitles & no dubbing. 9 skeletons. But people come to PR’ SKELET mainly because good cuisine in pleasant surroundings, then it’s worth it. €8 In 1991, Slovenia became an independent country and joined the European Union in 2004. H3H4 www.kinodvor.org H7H8 every hour is happy hour: ask for one of the 190 cocktails, and to €20. 19 8 get two. If you’re already seeing double, that means four! And 5 Revolution 14 12 if you’re wondering where the name “Wiki Waki Woo” comes 40 Harambaša Every night, every time. From the former soldier barracks 17 23 from, then try having a few more. Mon – Fri 11.00 – 22.30, Sat 12.00 – 22.30 16 Welcome to Sarajevo! As mentioned on the door of this What’s up tonight? (dating from the late 19th century), a legendary meeting H4H5 22 point arose, not only unique in Ljubljana but in most of Europe 18 restaurant, it’s no lie. This old house, where the low tables as well. The cultural centre began in 1993, when about ten 20 27 Čupiterija and everything else is really Bosnian, is located in the middle A free monthly agenda for festivals, concerts, expositions and many artists squatted in these premises and saved the place from zlati zob Every day 09.00 – 01.00 of a village in the middle of the city. Isn’t that special? After demolition. The urban space METELKOVA is now devoted 21 Live Balkan Ethno Beat & Dance This is a relaxed atmosphere bar with a touch of Italy you’ve had your “Čevapčići”- Bosnian meat rolls. Don’t forget other events. to exhibitions, artists’ studios, a hostel, bars and clubs that 24 and Spain. Čupiterija comes from the word čupito, which to ask for a big black coffee, you’ll be surprised. Everything especially attract crowds during weekends and hot summer 25 originates from Spain, meaning a shot (e.g. of rum). Don’t be around €5. Published in Slovenian and English. Easy to find in tourist offices, evenings. The site has all the looks of a squat with graffiti 26 surprised by the “hanging cow”, delicious food and a friendly 29 27 museums and some clubs. For smaller concerts and parties, ask and self-made constructions, but your hair doesn’t have to be mix of staff. 41 Family business pink, your dog doesn’t have to be wet, and your knees don’t 28 Mon-Fri 08.00-23.00, Sat-Sun 12.00-24.00 28 Arabian Nights PRI ŠKOFU has been in the Škof family for more than 30 around and check the flyers: have to come through your trousers to be able to enjoy it. H1H2 The site includes Monokel (lesbian club), Tiffany (gay club), Mon – Sat 09.00 – 03.00, Sun 09.00 – 22.00 years. Situated in a small alley with trees, it is specialized in • Metelkova (no. 5) Jalla Jalla (unofficial bar for spirits and free spirits), Gala Hala 30 CAFE GALERIJA = place for a first date. Lie down on the otto- Slovenian cuisine and especially beefsteaks like Biftek Škof man sofas, have a chat (black pepper tenderloin medallions with cream sauce). Or • K4 (no. 2) (punk, reagge, dub and d’n’b), Channel Zero (electronica, dark 34 32 music, metal), Menza pri koritu (performances, experimental 33 31 and drift away in the Arabian style à la 1001 nights. Don’t try Malancani Damjana (grilled aubergine slices with rice and • KUD France Prešeren (no. 46) music), Mizart (sweaty drum’n’bass) and KLUB Gromka (small 35 come alone! buckwheat covered in cheese sauce). The best place to enjoy room, great production). In the summer evenings it looks like Slovenian taste! €8 to €10. everyone is at Metelkova, just sitting outside and enjoying the 29 Tuneful Pizza spirit of it. Don’t miss it. Monday – Saturday 09.00 – 24.00 42 Trta www.metelkova.org 36 Do you need just one slice of take-away pizza late at night? Mon-Fri 11.00-22.00, Sat 11.00- 22.00 Hungry? Burek! Find LJUBLJANSKI DVOR near the Slovenian Philharmonic Yeah, it’s impossible to pronounce it but it tastes good! 6 Rock ‘till you drop 37 building and perhaps you can join in a conversation with a Everything you need from a pizza, and pastas and salads as Tue – Wed 21.00 – 04.00, Thurs – Sat 21.00 - 05.00 38 39 famous conductor who’s got the same idea in his or her mind. well. If it’s really full, head for the terrace. You might even see If you like roll and rock, ORTO BAR is it. With weekly live per- Check it out. DJ Umek (one of the top Slovenian techno DJs), sometimes he eats here. Thick dough layers are squeezed with stuffing and a lot of fat in round baking pan. formances from loud garage rock to anarcho-punk, or the oc- casional dub night, the show is always on. The red velvet hall 40 30 Zlata ribica = Goldfish! Make a wish! Traditional stuffing is roasted ground meat, cottage cheese or pizza flavour can save your impresses the fans that come upstairs (and that got past the Every day 08.00-24.00 43 Sax Pub security). Good place if you like your ashtrays in the seats and Lunch for €8. No problem. Goldfish will turn your wish into a Mon 12.00 – 01.00, Tue – Sat 10.00 – 01.00, Sun 16.00 – empty stomach 24/7. beer all over the floor. Usually from € 0 to € 7 for a concert. delicious dish. 21.00 www.orto-bar.com 41 Old-style jazz and blues pub. The old metal advertising plates Additional variants include fillings of apple, sour cherry, spinach and mushrooms. 42 31 Mediterranean from Cola, Harley and Heineken on the wooden ceiling shake Every day 08.00 – 01.00 with the live performances, which are free of charge (usually 7 Kavarna SEM - Slovenian Ethnographic Museum Find a spot in the Dalmatian-style KONOBA KATAKOMBE. Monday or Thursday evening, but better check out for a Every day 07.00-01.00, Fri 07.00-02.00 43 Order grilled anchovy and chips. Keep an eye on the nice schedule). Don’t be scared. Always a good place to start the night. The cosy Kavarna SEM looking waitress bringing your order from the next door Greek 44 Prešeren’s affair MUNICH SALZBURG BUDAPEST 44 switches to a dancing place restaurant. Drink? Buzz the bottle! Everybody knows it: the best love is the one that hurts. 6h 4h 9h during the nights. Swing nights on Tuesday. Jazz jam sessions 45 eating TRNOVO CHURCH is the place of unrequited love of the on Wednesday at 21.00. If you’re a guy and you know how 32 Be a Coffee famous Slovenian poet Prešeren. He’d been coming here to VIENNA to salsa, then come on down on a Friday evening: to the free Mon – Fri 07.00 – 01.00, Sat – Sun 10.00 – 01.00 see his beloved Julija but her parents didn’t approve of him. 5h salsa nights (with a live DJ at 21.00), there are always much Under the name “Be a Coffee” (BI-KO-FE) this bar hides a lot From this unhappy love he wrote the best poems. The church too many girls for only a few boys. Success assured. 46 bar more. looks directly onto the bridge with four pyramids and trees; it BLED 0’30h CELJE In the night time your caipirinha or mojito (€4.40) will be is supposedly the only bridge in Europe on which birch trees 8 An old bicycle factory served with jazz, funk, Brazil or ethno tones. The jokers on the grow. The surroundings are beautifully peaceful, there is a Tovarna is the very last of the industrial heritage in the menu are lots of beer plus one water pipe. river running through. The street on one side offers some good city centre that’s become a young independent cultural centre. relax restaurants and bars to say “I’ll love you forever” and forget Instead bicycles you get art, music, dance and theatre. 33 Mega popular pizza about it in the morning. Where next? Every day 11.00 – 24.00 LJUBLJANA POSTOJNA 9 Falafel burek When you’re waiting for your pizza, enjoy the mixed old-castle- 45 Chill out in Summertime LIPICA ZAGREB Mon – Fri 11.00 – 24.00, Sat 12.00 – 24.00, Sun 13.00 – 22.00 versus-Greek-heroes-statues interior style in FOCULUS. If Always open 2h Try this one if you’re short of cash! Falafel: €2.80. The chef’s you’re lucky, you can see the Slovenian hockey team having The long curving steps by the waterside are without a doubt suggestion is the student menu, where you combine them for 5 minutes walk H hostel their weekly pizza dinner. one of Ljubljana’s best places to chill out in the summertime. VENICE €6.50. Still hungry? Buy “baklava” straight from Lebanon for We come here to talk, study or warm up for the night, while 5h BELGRADE €1.50 or “zavitek” for €1.10 (sweet roll with cottage cheese 34 Vesolje = Space older people read newspapers and talk about their lovers from 9h and raisins). Mon-Sun never closed before 01.00 the good times. 12 Full House 14 Jazz Club Gajo 16 Cutty Sark Pub 18 Sushi Mama 20 Da bu da – Where east meets west A space flight trough VESOLJE will help you find the last “hu- 46 KUD France Prešeren TRIESTE KOPER 10 Salon, Salon Every day Restaurant 12.00 – 01.00; Garden 09.00 – 01.00 Jun-Sep 11.00-24.00 Mon-Sat 09.00-01.00, Sun 12.00-01.00 Mon-Sat 11.00-23.00 Mon – Fri 11.00 – 23.00; Sat –Sun 12:00 – 23.00 man barfly family” before passing out while celebrating peace Mon-Sat 10.00-01.00, Sun 14.00-01.00 The game’s just started! AS (or “Ace”) is one of the most Ljubljana’s most intimate jazz Club has been visited by such The CUTTY SARK is probably the essential Irish pub in RIJEKA Mon-Tues 09.00-01.00, Wed-Sat 09.00-03.00 The best sushi place in Slovenia. Not the cheapest place in A perfect fusion of Ljubljana soul and Asian taste without between spacemen and cosmonauts. And remember: never Open since 1919, KUD France Prešeren is everything in one: Salon, world cuisine and Slovenian wines for a good afternoon visited dance areas around: all the public relations students are names as Clark Terry and Bill Clinton. During the summer they Ljubljana. This place breathes the feeling of a dark drinking town, but you can see the Japanese chef cooking inside and knowing Thai, Vietnameese or Chinese language. Numerous give up. performing space, concert room, night time club or day-time and quiet talks. Lounge bar and restaurant where taste and here (girls and boys). At night time a chill house DJ, a lounge move to lovely terrace near the Opera House, where they and singing place from 20 years ago. When Ireland played in he knows what he’s doing. Even the guys from the Japanese ingredients are imported weekly by airplane mostly from exhibition venue. In August there are concerts everyday with and a dance basement turn this into one of Ljubljana’s major organize Jam Sassions. Slovenia, about a thousand supporters gathered here and they the Trnfest: leading art/performance alternative festival. Adriatic sea atmosphere melt into silver and gold. Embassy come here to eat. Don’t forget to try the exotic red Bangkok and Saigon. 35 It’s just great, man hotspots. Perfect for an enjoyable night, but you should be 23 Free entrance. ran out of beer... Don’t worry, they’ve done a refill already… bean ice-cream. Mon-Fri 07.30-01.00; Sat 10.00-01.00; Sun 18.00-01.00 Besides beer, you can also order the old-fashioned ‘Cedevita’ Use-it is non-commercial, no non-sense, free, up-to-date and made by young people. 11 St. Patrick Pub to enter. Free of charge. www.jazzclubgajo.com 21 Miniature harbour with an atmosphere Don’t even try to pronounce the name ŽMAUC. It came about (orange powder + water) that we all drank as kids. If you want to make the network bigger: www.use-it.info Mon – Tue 16.00 – 01.00, Fri – Sat 12.00 – 01.00, Sun 12.00 17 Cantina Mexicana 19 Top but not topless You might not find the story of MAKALONCA and Petrus, but when someone couldn’t remember a name of a theatre play. In www.kud-fp.si 13 Joe Peńa’s Cantina Y Bar 15 Manhattan under the Alps Summer: Mon,Tue,Sun 09.00 – 01.00; Wed–Sat 10.00 – 03.00 Did we something? Are we totally wrong? – 24.00 Mon-Tues 08.30-20.00; Wed-Fri 08.30-20.00&22.00-05.00; Sat tango, salsa, flamenco … and get on down with the DJ or the past ten years, the bar and terrace have become popular 47 Šiška Rules Mon-Thurs 10.00-01.00, Fri-Sat 10.00-02.00, Sun&Holidays Sun-Wed – 9.00 – 2.00, Thu – Sat 9.00 – 3.00 Winter: Mon, Tue, Sun 10.00 – 01.00; Wed – Sat 10.00 – 03.00 Let us know! [email protected] www.visitljubljana.si There are no strangers here, only friends who haven’t met! 22.00-05.00 live music. With a little luck you can meet the world’s finest spots among local directors, actors and students who don’t Centre of Urban Culture KINO ŠIŠKA. A place where urban 12.00-24.00 Nebotičnik built in early 30s, looks like a baby New York style The tastiest and certainly the biggest “chimichanga” you’ll ever culture meets sub-urban early sixties modernist architecture. Published by MISSS/Use-it, Ljubljana, Kunaverjeva 2, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Popular among the locals and tourists, the bar stocks all your Clubbing on the Top of the World? Almost! Eat & Party. Party dancers. comb their hair. First Mexican restaurant in town. The mellow-yellow salon skyscraper with lounge club, restaurant and terrace. Three eat! This sunny restaurant in a former nightclub spreads the Editor: Ljubo Research: Matjaž, Vesna, Teja, Gregor Lectureship: Arven Šakti Kralj Szomi favourite Irish tipples, served by a gaggle of cheery bar staff, & Afterparty. Jet & Set. Saturday Night Fever four days a DJ-sets on Fridays and 20 cocktails. Long drinks €4 to €6. Once the biggest cinema screen in the country, now become Photo: Ljubo Raičevič Design: Emir Jelkić Print: Collegium Graphicum plus live sport on a big screen. Summer garden during May smells like fajitas all over, and mojitos and cinnamon tequila are levels of dolce vita under the sky. Great view. smell of spicy salsa all over Ljubljana. Locals love it and tourists week. During the day there is a coffee bar with a nice view of 22 Tromostovje the multi-cultural Cathedral (Katedrala), a modern and innova- Assistance: Use-it Europe, © Use-it Ljubljana & Use-it Europe, 4th edition, May 2011 to September; live music & session (on Thursdays) during their best sellers. Good deal for your money. €8.90 for a menu feel as if they’re in Mexico City in the “rainbow area” inside. For Ljubljana Castle. Every day 07.00 – 01.00 36 Open Air Theatre tive venue for music, theatre and dance. Map Source: © Geodetski zavod Slovenije including starter and soup / €5.80 for a mojito. a romantic evening with many margaritas & senoritas, upstairs! www.kinosiska.si WhereThe capital all of europe of Slovenia meets September to May. Sun and sunglasses, we should be thankful to good old France The old convent of the Teutonic Knights was rebuilt by the