HISTORY

Above: The Roopmati he sky is getting darker, and the retreat of a succession of Mughals, who sought is a symbol of storm clouds gather—plump the cool breeze and green spaces of Mandu. love. Having gone Once the capital of the kingdom in through restoration, and menacing—bringing with parts of the original them the faint smell of wet earth. , Mandu is known for the16th- structure can be seen Shivering in the cold breeze of century love story between a king—Baz Bahadur, from the east. Mandu, I wrap my thin shawl the ruler of Malwa—and a commoner— Facing page: The ogee closer around my body and look Roopmati, a shepherdess. The story goes that arches of the Hindola on a hunting trip, Baz Bahadur caught sight of Mahal. This building is at the tableau on the terrace. Families are sitting known for its simple Ttogether inside the domed alcoves that bookend Roopmati by River Narmada, and, captivated by architecture and this balcony. Groups of local women from the her beauty, made her his queen. It was idyllic construction. neighbouring villages, perhaps on a day’s outing, for a while, but like all great love stories, this are putting up a brave fight to hold their quick- one, too, ended in tragedy (‘happily ever after’ dry in place. Suddenly the clouds burst open, never makes for exciting history). When captured making the women turn around, and one woman by ’s general, Adham Khan, the king rushes for cover inside the monument—silver deserted his queen and kingdom. And Roopmati anklets clinking melodiously and rubber slippers committed suicide by consuming poison. flapping on the stone floor. Despite this less-than-perfect conclusion, I am at Rani Roopmati’s Pavilion, a three-storeyed remnants of this romance lie scattered building perched prettily on top of a hillock. From a everywhere in Mandu. The Roopmati Pavilion recess in the terrace, I can see the Narmada snaking itself, for instance, was built by the indulgent its way through the arid plains in the distance. The king to ensure that his queen was able to see countryside, dotted with brown monuments, comes her beloved Narmada whenever she pleased. to life in this unexpected spell of rain... However, Baz Bahadur’s Palace, despite its open terraces and luxuriant surroundings, does not MONUMENTAL A LOVE STORY carry any whispers of romance for me. Apart from an abiding fascination for the Taj Mahal, Dinodia Photo saiko3p/Shutterstock.com; I have never delved into the Mughal period. But in My guide, no doubt quoting from unverifiable Take in the allure of the charming the case of Mandu, I have to agree with sources, says that Mandu was once a massive cities of Mandu and Maheshwar. Jahangir’s words: “I know of no other place that fortified city, dating back to the 6th century BC. LOVE is so pleasant in climate and with such attractive Today, it is a small dusty town in the heart of scenery as Mandu in the rainy season.” No surprise, , dotted with monuments and ruins that TEXT CHARUKESI RAMADURAI then, that this town also served as the monsoon hold their own stories.

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STRUCTURED BEAUTY embellishments on the open terrace are the small- Above: Standing between the Munja Standing in front of the Jami Masjid, I reflect on the domed pavilions and intriguing water channels on and Kapur Tanks way we talk blithely about global influences. As if the floor. The Hindola Mahal—meaning ‘Swinging is a complex that we, our generation, thought up the very idea. This Palace’—is similarly stark, with graceful arches and resembles a ship, giving it the name , built in the mid-15th century, is modelled sloping outer walls, and perhaps sways gently in the Jahaz Mahal. after the Umayyad mosque of Damascus. I love the calming monsoon breeze. Right: The pink bleak brownness of it, with bits of blue enamel work granite pillars in peeping out from the walls of the inner chamber. All THE ONWARD JOURNEY the this brown is contrasted sharply by the neighbouring After a couple of days in Mandu, I head to Complex. Hoshang’s Tomb—India’s first marble structure. Maheshwar, just an hour’s drive away. If Mandu feels like a place from the past, Maheshwar is very At first glance, this domed monument seems plain much here and now. Life in this town revolves but I walk past beautiful pink granite pillars on to around the ghats of the Narmada; gossiping local the other side—the main entry into the tomb—and women wash their clothes, boatmen call out to notice the intricate latticework on the windows. This tourists for pleasure rides, priests fill river water tomb is supposed to be a fine example of a marriage in their vessels, and tourists record their visit for between the Indian and Afghan styles of architecture. posterity on cameras. Here, again, the Mughal presence makes itself felt. Despite the many temples in the town, the However, the place I return to again and again is undisputed goddess here is Maharani Ahilyabai the Royal Enclave—built around the same time— , who governed this territory in the mid- containing the Jahaz Mahal and the Hindola Mahal. 18th century. The fort she ruled from is now a While entirely willing to be charmed by Mandu, I heritage hotel, and the palace or Rajwada is a small still find it surreal to see a ship (Jahaz Mahal) and a unassuming space filled with a quiet charm—much swing (Hindola Mahal) here. But these monuments like the town itself. are the highlights of Mandu, adorning all the picture postcards sent out of here. But the star of Maheshwar is the gossamer fabric that lends itself to beautiful saris that carry the Jahaz Mahal is 120m long and sits between two town’s name. The art of weaving Maheshwari saris artificial lakes, the Munj Talao and the Kapur Talao. was introduced over two centuries ago by the queen During the monsoons, the palace looks afloat— and revived two decades ago by her descendants. like a ship—between the two full lakes. The only There are now over 2,000 weavers skilled in this art, which once came close to dying out. Charukesi Ramadurai; Dinodia Photo Ramadurai; Charukesi

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Below: The Rehwa After an hour at the ghats and a quick stop at the Back at the Jahaz Mahal at sunset, I think of the Society was set up to various avatars this overgrown village has seen revive the weaving temple on the shore, I make my way to the industry. Rehwa Society Store inside the fort complex. A over the centuries: Mandapadurga, Mandavgarh Bottom: Maheshwar is dozen women are at work here, silent and focused, and now Mandu. My favourite, though, comes located on the north the stillness broken only by the movement of the from the late-13th-century name of Shadiabad— bank of River Narmada. looms. Some of them look up and smile as I point ‘City of Joy’. The city is home to numerous temples, forts my camera at them; to others, I am only a mild and ghats. annoyance. And in the shop, each looks more enticing than the other, and I walk out with far more than I had intended to buy.  Quick Facts

GETTING THERE Jet Airways has regular flights from and Mumbai to , from where Mandu is 90 km (a 2-hour drive) away.

STAYING THERE The best options in Mandu are the government- managed Malwa Resort and Malwa Retreat. For a more upscale experience, choose Jhira Bagh Palace (www.jhirapalace.co.in) on the Indore Highway. At Maheshwar, stay at the Ahilya Fort (www.ahilyafort.com)

FOR MORE INFORMATION Log on to www.mptourism.com Olaf Krüger/imageBROKER/Dinodia; Dinodia Photo Olaf Krüger/imageBROKER/Dinodia;

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