Staffin Community Trust New Pathways ,

Archaeological Feasibility Study

Ryefield Farm Tore Ross-shire IV6 7SB Mob: 07891 578998 / 07776 027306 Ph: 01463 811310 [email protected] www.rossandcromarch.co.uk

Archaeological Feasibilty Study Report: Staffin Community Trust New Pathways 2014-28/SCT14

Staffin Community Trust New Pathways

Staffin, Peninsula Isle of Skye

Archaeological Desk-based Assessment, Walkover Survey and Feasibility Study Report

Client Staffin Community Trust

Site Code SCT14

Report Number 2014-28/SCT14

Author Lynn Fraser, Mary Peteranna

Date 12-09-2014

Reviewed by S. Birch, L. Fraser, M. Peteranna

Date 14-09-2014, rev. 4-11-2014

OASIS No. rosscrom1-190072

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Contents

List of Illustrations 3 List of Tables 4 Acknowledgements 5

Summary 6

Introduction 6

Methodology 8

Results Footpath 02 Inver Tote 10 Footpath 03 Culnacnoc – Inver Tote – Brother’s Point 19 Footpath 04 Grealin – Lealt 42 Footpath 06 Garafad 51 Footpath 07 Garafad – Staffin Bay 65 Footpath 08 Brogaig – Loch Sheanta 72 Footpath 09 Staffin Bay 79 Footpath 10 Storr 83

Archaeology Study: Conclusion and Recommendations 89

References 91

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List of Illustrations

Cover View over Staffin from the Garafad settlement Illus 1 Footpath locations 7 Illus 2 Location of the proposed Inver Tote footpath and the archaeological 9 sites recorded Illus 3 The fishing bothy at Inver Tote 12 Illus 4 Storage shed with degraded boat nausts either side 12 Illus 5 The diatomite factory and associated building 13 Illus 6 blast shelter (2-14) on the cliff top 13 Illus 7 Location of the proposed Brother’s Point path and archaeological sites 22 Illus 8 Possible structure, site 3-1, in Kilena burial ground 23 Illus 9 Location of the archaeological sites at Culnacnoc 24 Illus 10 Remains of structure 3-6a 25 Illus 11 Site 3-6e in the foreground, site 3-6c immediately behind and site 3-6d 25 to the left Illus 12 Site 3-22 in the foreground with site 3-23 to the right of the scale pole 26 Illus 13 Location of the archaeological sites at Lonfearn 27 Illus 14 Site 3-27, the house attached to wall 3-26 28 Illus 15 Site 3-39, a group of five possible shielings 28 Illus 16 Site 3-41, fishing bothy on the path to Brother’s Point 29 Illus 17 Site 3-48, the quern quarry visible from Brother’s Point 30 Illus 18 Site 3-52, the house at Port Earlish 30 Illus 19 Location of the archaeological sites at Port Earlish 31 Illus 20 Site 3-47, possible shieling at the NE end of Brother’s Point 40 Illus 21 Location of the proposed Grealin – Lealt footpath and the archaeological 43 sites Illus 22 Site 4-10, a substantial dyke at Grealin 44 Illus 23 Site 4-13, a structure built into the slope below the unclassified road 45 Illus 24 Looking east towards the Lealt showing a good example of rig 45 and furrow cultivation Illus 25 View from the road of the ruins of the post-medieval settlement at Lealt 49 Illus 26 Location of the proposed Garafad footpath and the archaeological sites 50 Illus 27 The archaeological sites recorded at the Garafad settlement 54 Illus 28 Site 6-4, the kiln barn at Garafad 55

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Illus 29 Site 6-14, showing the wide walls built with large boulders and orthostats 55 Illus 30 Site 6-36, the denuded chambered cairn 56 Illus 31 Site 6-49, the rectangular structure at the base of Sgeir Bhan under 56 dense bracken Illus 32 Site 6-52, boat nausts at Staffin slipway 64 Illus 33 Location of the Garafad-Staffin Bay footpath and the archaeological 68 sites Illus 34 Site 7-4, an abandoned house partially obscured by rushes 69 Illus 35 Site 7-1, stone/turf banks forming a subcircular structure 69 Illus 36 Location of the proposed Brogaig-Loch Sheanta footpath and 74 archaeological sites

Illus 37 Site 8-1, degraded structure, possibly a shieling 76

Illus 38 Site 8-9, the remains of a large degraded building 77 Illus 39 Location of the archaeological sites at Staffin Bay 80 Illus 40 Site 9-1, a small building to the northeast of Lodge 82 Illus 41 Site 9-2, a rectangular, stone-built structure with enclosure attached 82 Illus 42 Location of the proposed Storr footpath and archaeological sites 85 Illus 43 Site 10-1, a possible structure attached to the base of a knoll 86 Illus 44 Site 10-3, a possible structure at the base of the knoll 86 Illus 45 Site 10-5, a stretch of wall to the southwest of the Old Man of Storr 87

List of Tables

Table 1 Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for the Inver Tote footpath 14 Table 2 Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for the Culnacnoc – Inver Tote 32 footpath Table 3 Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for the Grealin – Lealt footpath 46 Table 4 Gazetteer of Sites for the proposed Garafad path 57 Table 5 Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for the Garafad-Staffin Bay footpath 70 Table 6 Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for the proposed Brogaig-Loch 75 Sheanta Table 7 Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites between Quiraing Lodge and the 81 River Brogaig Table 8 Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for footpath 88

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Looking through the diatomite factory building ruins at Inver Tote

Acknowledgements

Fieldwork was carried out by Lynn Fraser and Mary Peteranna. We wish to thank Staffin Community Trust for commissioning the work and Hugh Ross and Chris York for their time. Ordnance Survey mapping is reproduced by permission of Landmark Information Group under RoCAS licence LIG1044. Mapping containing Ordnance Survey data is subject to Crown Copyright 2014. All rights reserved. Licence number 100022432. This is an unpublished report.

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Summary

An archaeological desk-based assessment, walkover survey and feasibility study was carried out between 12 August 2014 and 15 September 2014 on behalf of Staffin Community Trust as part of plans to construct a new network of paths along the east coast of the Trotternish peninsula, Isle of Skye, to complement and augment the existing pathways. Eight routes were surveyed over the course of three days with 165 sites recorded. The work was undertaken to assess the nature and extent of any archaeological sites along the proposed routes in order to provide information on their potential as points of interest to those using the paths; to inform recommendations for further research and interpretation of the sites and to inform recommendations for the protection and management of the sites.

Introduction

The Isle of Skye lies close to the northwest coast of the Scottish Highlands and is often referred to by the romantic name of the ‘Misty Isle’. Drawn by the island’s scenery, history and legends, amongst others, people from around the world visit Skye each year.

The Trotternish peninsula is the most northerly of Skye’s peninsulas and contains some of the most striking landscapes in Scotland. The Trotternish Ridge, which includes the Storr and Quiraing, provides a dramatic backdrop to the drive from northwards to Staffin, along the peninsula’s east coast. The cliffs of the coastline are equally spectacular. Scattered throughout the landscape between the coast and ridge are remnants of past occupants from the Mesolithic to the post-medieval period.

The Staffin Community Trust (SCT), also known as Urras an Taobh Sear, opened a successful network of paths in 2009, forming part of its eco-museum Ceumannan, which translates as ‘Footsteps’. Ceumannan is an outdoor museum without walls and is set in the physical terrain of the area. SCT would like to create the best eco-museum in Scotland and, as part of that project, now plans to extend the existing network of paths. The study assessed eight proposed routes (Illus 1), which would be marked out and signposted for walkers, with the historical, archaeological and geological stories behind each of the different locations told through Gaelic and English signage.

Ross and Cromarty Archaeological Services was commissioned to conduct an archaeological walkover survey and desk-based assessment of the eight routes and a feasibility study into the archaeological potential of the sites located along the routes as points of interest for walkers. The proposed routes cover a mix of terrain with a variety of archaeological sites of interest. Each individual route is described and discussed below with recommendations made, where appropriate, for mitigation of visitor impacts or alterations to path proposals.

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Illus 1: Proposed footpath locations1

1 Contains Ordnance Survey data ©. Crown copyright and database rights 2014 - 7 - Archaeological Feasibilty Study Report: Staffin Community Trust New Pathways 2014-28/SCT14

Methodology

The overall aim of the desk-based assessment and archaeological walkover survey was to identify and record any archaeological sites or features along the eight proposed paths, provide specific details of the sites to include their co-ordinates, physical condition, characteristics, accessibility, appearance, their designation, if any, and the context of their setting and level of popularity with walkers. An assessment of the potential impact of the new routes on archaeological sites was made along with recommendations on avoiding and mitigating such impact, together with suggested alterations to path proposals to alleviate any concerns and ensure that no archaeological sites are compromised.

Desk-based Assessment

A desk-based assessment was conducted prior to commencement of the survey in order to assess the archaeological potential of the routes based on previously recorded sites and any historical documentation. A full check of all available historical and archaeological records, aerial photographs and historical maps was conducted using the Historic Environment Record (HHER), the National Monuments Record of Scotland (NMRS), Ordnance Survey Name Books, Historic Scotland’s databases, the National Library of Scotland, the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland databases, statistical accounts and other available records, literary sources or online resources about the site.

Historical maps and illustrations showing areas around the proposed footpaths were consulted using the National Library of Scotland online resources2. Aerial imagery of the proposed footpath locations was consulted using the RCAHMS online collection of historical aerial images3 and modern aerial images supplied by Bing Maps4.

Walkover Survey

A corridor around each of the proposed routes was walked over and surveyed on 12-14 August 2014. The range of the corridor depended upon vegetation, ground conditions, landscape visibility and site visibility. The weather for the survey was variable, ranging from heavy rain to sunshine.

Archaeological sites were recorded using high-resolution digital photography, while sketch survey drawings were produced where necessary. Photography was hampered at times by wet weather conditions and dense vegetation coverage.

Individual site locations were recorded, using a combination of ArcPad GIS software on a handheld Windows Mobile-based computer capable of sub-metre accuracy and a Trimble Geo-XR Rover capable of centimetre accuracy. Survey and recording methods recommended by the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland (RCAHMS)5 were employed and all work was conducted in strict adherence to the Institute for Archaeologists (IfA) Code of Conduct6. Detailed descriptions of the sites are included in the site gazetteers and layouts depicted in site plans.

2 NLS 2014 3 RCAHMS 2014 4 Supplied under ESRI licensing and Microsoft Bing Mapping 5 RCAHMS 2004 6 Institute for Archaeologists 2012 - 8 - Archaeological Feasibilty Study Report: Staffin Community Trust New Pathways 2014-28/SCT14

Illus 2:

Location of the proposed Inver Tote footpath and the archaeological sites recorded

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Results

Footpath 02 Inver Tote The proposed footpath at Inver Tote (Illus 2) takes advantage of the spectacular natural feature of Lealt Gorge, already a popular tourist destination. The planned route would take visitors from the existing car park on a circular route down one side of the gorge and up the other. At present, those visitors who wish to access the shore on the north side to view the diatomite factory and the waterfall from its base do so by way of a desire path down the slope.

Historical Maps First Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire (Isle of Skye), Sheet XII Survey date: 1875 Publication date: 1880 In the vicinity of the proposed route on the south side of the gorge, the map shows a curved enclosure and an irregularly shaped enclosure. A boundary wall or fence is shown on the north side running in the direction of Brother’s Point.

Second Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire – Isle of Skye Sheet XII Publication date: 1903 Date revised: 1901 By the time of the 2nd edition map, there have been some changes. The curved and irregularly shaped enclosures on the south side of the gorge are unchanged, but there is now a roofed building depicted just above the high tide mark on the shore. On the north side of the river, a large rectangular building, a small square building and a pier are depicted. To the west of this cluster of structures is a large rectangular building at which a railway line terminates.

Aerial Imagery Two enclosures at Lower Tote and the building ruins along the shore at Inver Tote could be clearly seen.

Highland Historic Environment Record The following sites were noted in the vicinity of the proposed footpath:

MHG37198 NG 5180 6050 Inver Tote, Quarry Prior to the development of the quarry, there is a possibility that up to 3 sheds stood on the cliff top, part of the diatomite works, above the mouth of the Lealt. One of these sheds was subsequently sold to a crofter, and was taken to Balnaknock, Uig. In 1994, the shed was reported as still standing, with later additions.

MHG37187 NG 5201 6049 Inver Tote, Diatomite Works MHG37189 NG 5200 6040 Inver Tote, Diatomite Works, Manager’s House The former diatomite factory buildings and manager’s house are located on the shoreline on the north side of the mouth of the River Lealt. A narrow gauge railway ran from the head of Lealt Gorge to Loch Cuithir where the mine was located. Two carriages from the railways can be seen in gorge. Diatomite is a white or grey mineral earth which has similarities to china clay. It is formed from deposits of living skeletons, shields or shells of fresh water minute microscopic organisms or diatoms. Diatomite can be used for insulation against sound and the loss of heat and cold and for fireproofing.

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MHG46671 NG 5201 6040 Inver Tote, Salmon Fishing Station The remains of a disused salmon fishing station situated on the south bank of the mouth of the River Lealt are located near to the ruins of a dam. Surviving component parts included two hand winches, net-drying poles, a rubble-built bothy (asphalt-covered hipped roof mostly collapsed at time of survey (RCAHMS 1994)) and a store with a corrugated iron roof.

Walkover Survey

The walkover survey recorded 15 archaeological sites (Illus 2), which relate mainly to post- medieval and 20th century activity. The post-medieval sites relate to agricultural activity in the area, while the 20th century structures relate to the fishing and diatomite industries. The Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites (Table 1) provides detailed information of the sites identified in the vicinity of this proposed route.

South side of the gorge Ten sites were recorded on the south side of the gorge. Site 2-1 was the possible remains of a small turf structure overlooking the gorge, whilst site 2-5 was a possible structure set in the hillside near to the shore. Neither of these sites is shown on the historical mapping and, due to their much degraded state, an interpretation as to their use and age is difficult. Sites 2-2, 2-3, enclosures, and 2-4, an area of distinctive rig and furrow, all relate to post-medieval agricultural activity. Site 2-3 is a curved bank enclosure, which is clearly visible on aerial imagery and had been built by the time of the 1875 Ordnance Survey.

At the base of the cliffs on the south side of mouth of the river is a small cluster of structures. The salmon fishing bothy (site 2-6; Illus 3) is in a ruinous condition, although the chimney stack in the southwest wall is still in situ. A hand winch remains outside it. A small, roofed storage shed (site 2-7; Illus 4) with attached boat nausts, under dense vegetation, is located to the west of the bothy. Only one structure is depicted on the 1903 Ordnance Survey map, which probably indicates that the fishing bothy had been built by this time. Another site recorded comprised the base of a possible earlier building on the north side of the storage shed (site 2-8). Its interpretation and date are unknown. The degraded remains of a winch housing (site 2-10) was also recorded as relating to the fishing station, while the degraded remains of an unfinished dam (site 2-9) are associated with an attempt to create hydro power at the diatomite works.

North side of the gorge A further five sites were recorded on the north side of the gorge. On the bank of the river were the ruinous remains of the diatomite factory (site 2-11; Illus 5). Much of the structure remains standing with features such as , windows and lintels intact. A small external factory building with an exhaust structure on top (site 2-12; Illus 5) is situated immediately to the north, which also has many features intact. To the northeast of the factory is a building base (site 2-13), which is much degraded with only the front revetted wall clearly visible along the shoreline. The factory and associated building are both depicted on the 2nd Edition OS map indicating that they were built between 1875 and 1901; production at the factory ended between the first and second world wars. There is no record of what stood on the building base. The large building shown on the 2nd Edition OS map at the termination of the railway line on the slope above the factory was not identified during the survey. Two sites were found on the cliff top: site 2-14 (Illus 6) was a small stone/concrete structure used as a blast shelter by the nearby quarry and site 2-15 was a possible shieling. Neither of these structures had been previously recorded.

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Illus 3: The fishing bothy at Inver Tote

Illus 4: Storage shed with boat nausts to either side under dense vegetation

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Illus 5: The diatomite factory (2-11) and associated building (2-12) in top right

Illus 6: Quarry blast shelter (2-14) on the cliff top

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Table 1: Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for the Inver Tote footpath

Ht Site Site Photo Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. name No. (m) The remains of grass-covered turf/stone banks may be Lealt the remains of a small turf structure overlooking Lealt WNW- Very 2-1 Structure? Unknown 60 151658 860346 - - Gorge Gorge. The banks form a rough U-shape measuring 4m ENE degraded WNW-ESE by 3m, and standing up to 1m high.

A grass covered turf/stone bank spread 0.8-1m wide and up to 0.7m high encloses an area measuring Lealt Post 2-2 Enclosure approximately 120m NW-SE by 75m. The enclosure NW-SE Degraded 60 151725 860280 - - Gorge Medieval ends on the west sides at a small burn and encloses an area of broad rig and furrow aligned ENE-WSW.

A grass covered turf/stone bank spread up to 3m wide Lealt and 1m high encloses an area measuring approximately Post 2-3 Enclosure E-W Degraded 60 151709 860337 1-2 - Gorge 80m E-W by 50m. The enclosure ends at the cliff edge Medieval on the north sides (Lealt Gorge). Rig and Lealt An area of wide rig and furrow aligned ENE-WSW and ENE- Post 2-4 Degraded 60 152032 860234 6 - furrow Gorge located on a narrow platform next to cliffs. WSW Medieval A possible structure built into the hillside comprises Inver grass-covered suboval turf/stone banks measuring 3m Very 2-5 Structure NW-SE Unknown 20 152018 860369 11 - Tote NW-SE by 1.5m internally and standing 0.5-1.1m high. degraded Possible shieling. A double-faced stone and mortar rectangular building with square corners and rubble wall core measures 13.8m NE-SW by 5m over walls 0.75m wide and 1.5- 1.9m high at roof height. The mortar consists of lime and local beach shingle of a black pea gravel around small-large beach cobbles of varying shapes. There is 7-10, Salmon Inver one internal walling forming 2 compartments, each Late 19th 12-13, 2-6 NE-SW Ruinous 0 152018 860398 MHG46671 bothy Tote measuring 5.5m NE-SW by 3m internally. The SW c. 20-5, compartment has an entrance 0.85m wide and 2 29, 30 windows 0.85m wide with timbers still in place in the NW wall and a fireplace with chimney stack still in situ in the SW wall. The NE compartment has an entrance 1.2m wide centred in the NW wall and a fireplace with a large granite lintel 1m long in the NE wall.

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Ht Site Site Photo Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. name No. (m)

A double-faced stone and mortar rectangular building with rounded front corners is revetted into the hillslope on the S end. It 8m N-S by 3.2m over walls 0.9m wide and standing 1m high at roof height. The2m-wide entrance has a wooden and is located in the N wall. The roof comprises a domed corrugated iron sheet approximately 0.8m high; it is held down with metal 7-10, Shed, wires attached to stones which are built into the wall on Inver Late 19th 12-13, 2-7 Boat the W side but hang freely on the E side of the building. N-S degraded 0 152026 860398 MHG46671 Tote c. 20, 26- naust The mortar consists of lime and local beach shingle of a 33 black pea gravel around rounded small-large beach cobbles. There are unroofed boat nausts built into both sides of the shed which comprise turf-covered stone walls masked by dense vegetation. The E naust measures 5m N-S by 2m internally and is revetted into the hillslope on both sides. The W naust measures 5m N-S by 1.75m internally.

A spread of cobbles over a flat area on the N side of the shed partially covers structural footings set into the Inver ENE- Very 2-8 Structure ground measuring at least 5m ENE-WSW by 3.5m. The Unknown 0 152024 860407 - - Tote WSW degraded edge of the structure is most clear at the SW end, interpretation is unclear. The remains of a stone/mortar wall stand 1.5m high and extend 8m into the river from the base of the outcrop on the SE side of the river. It comprises battered and Inver stepped sides measuring 1m out from the top surface Early 2-9 Dam NW-SE Degraded th 0 151987 860386 15-17 - Tote which measures 3m wide. The structure has mostly 20 c. fallen away on the SW and NW sides, due to river erosion. The stones comprise rounded and subangular cobbles 20-40cm long. The remains of cobble and mortar walls (0.09 and 0.35m wide) formed a housing structure for a winch Winch Inver Very Late 19th 2-10 associated with the old fishing bothy. The winch N-S 0 151996 860416 18-19 MHG46671 housing Tote degraded c. mechanism is no longer visible but an iron support bar is attached to the structure.

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Ht Site Site Photo Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. name No. (m) The old diatomite factory comprised a rectangular building measuring 26.5m NE-SW by 8.7m and standing up to 8m high at domed gable ends and 7m high at long ends. The walls comprises stone and cobbles with lime mortar over a foundation wall built 1m out from the front (SE wall) on top of the cobble beach. The SE wall contains an entrance 4.3m wide (with iron 7-10, lintel in situ) and the remains of at least 7 windows Diatomite Inver Late 19th 13, 38- 2-11 c.1.2m wide with arched lintels. There are 2 upper and NE-SW Ruinous 0 152017 860494 MHG37187 factory Tote c. 40, 42- 2 lower windows to the SW side of the entrance and 3 60 lower windows on the NE side of the entrance (there may have been 3 upper windows but the wall does not survive to this height). There is a small circular aperture at the SW end of this wall near floor height. There are opposing narrow entrances 1.1m wide in the SW and NE walls. A scarcement ledge is visible for the upper floor. An external building to the diatomite factory comprises a brick-built structure measuring 5m NNE-SSW by 3m with a concrete base and stepped upper structure with central dome shape enclosing circular iron 'exhaust' structure, which contains brick lining. The arched 7-10, Diatomite Inver entrance in the ESE wall measures 1.3m wide and 2.3m Late 19th 13, 38- 2-12 NNE-SSW Ruinous 0 152017 860517 MHG37187 factory Tote high. An iron circular 'exhaust' stack is set into the top of c. 40, 43, the domed brick upper structure. The WNW wall is 61-5 partially revetted into the hillside, located next to a steep burn. The NNE and SSW walls have arched/circular apertures at base and arched apertures at top with iron beam supports. Located to the NE of the factory is the rectangular base of a structure measuring 18m NE-SW by 4.2m. The ESE wall is double-faced comprising cobbles, flat slabs and mortar and measures 0.55m wide, standing 0.8m Building Inver high. The WNW wall is revetted into the hillslope and Late 19th 2-13 NE-SW Degraded 0 152038 860526 37, 68 - base Tote covered in vegetation. An internal partition at the NE c. end appears to have formed a compartment extending below floor level. There is a substantial stone-built foundation base 0.5-1m high, which extends 1.9m out from the ESE (front wall) and built on the cobble beach.

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Ht Site Site Photo Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. name No. (m) A small stone/concrete box structure at the cliff top Blast Inver measures 1.1m wide by 1.5m deep and stands 1m high 2-14 NW-SE Ruinous Modern 80 151805 860471 34-5 - shelter Tote with walls 0.5m wide. It was used by quarry workers up until the 1970s.

A grass-covered circular stone/turf bank measures 4.4m across over walls spread up to 1.2m wide and standing Lealt Very 2-15 Structure 0.5m high. There is a possible entrance in the SW side, N/A Unknown 90 151730 860496 34-5 - Gorge degraded indicating it may have been a shieling. Situated at the top of the cliff.

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Discussion and Recommendations

The Lealt Gorge is a known attraction with an existing car park. On the day of survey, there was a steady stream of cars and coaches stopping so that visitors could view the waterfall and the diatomite factory and fishing station from the north side. The vast majority of visitors remained on the cliff top with many also making their way down the cliff to the north bank of the river. The current access route down the slope is by way of a badly eroded desire path, which is steep, narrow and unstable in places. However, any footpath constructed, given the steepness of the slope, would be subject to erosion from a combination of weather and footfall. The diatomite structures, although in a ruinous state, are interesting remains of a little known industry and are worth visiting. Whilst appearing reasonably stable at present, consideration should be given to obtaining an engineer’s report as to their actual stability. The buildings’ condition will continue to deteriorate over time unless they are actively maintained and managed. The diatomite buildings and fishing station ruins are easily visible from the cliff top. A -constructed and maintained viewing area with interpretation panels would benefit those less intrepid visitors. It is not recommended that visitors are directed to site 2-14 (stone/concrete structure) due to its location set into the slope. Site 2-15 is located adjacent to the current pathway, but has limited visitor appeal as it presents as a low turf covered bank.

The south side of the gorge did not appear to be accessed by many visitors, if at all. The only people seen were a pair of anglers returning from fishing. The sites recorded at the start of the walk (2-1 – 2-3), although interesting archaeologically as an indication of farming activity, are probably not of great interest to the general public. The area of rig and furrow at site 2-4 is highly visible from the proposed path and there would be no need to encourage visitors to deviate from the path to visit it. An interpretation panel at the start of this route would provide sufficient information. The route down the slope to the river bank and shore is fairly steep and erosion would be an issue. There is a faint desire path down the slope at present, but it has fallen away in places. Site 2-5 (a possible structure) is much degraded and would not be of interest to visitors. The fishing bothy and shed, together with the metal winch, dam (2-9) and winch housing (2-11), are all features of interest, which can be easily identified by visitors. The bothy and shed are in a stable condition and readily visible, while the attached boat nausts to either side of the shed are covered in dense vegetation, making them invisible to most visitors. Vegetation clearance is recommended on a seasonal basis. Although the dam is an interesting feature, it is in a very degraded condition with continued water erosion affecting the stability of the remaining stonework. Consideration would need to be given to its structural safety and maintenance requirements.

Both the diatomite works and the salmon bothy would benefit from detailed interpretation. Archival research and oral history could possibly provide some interesting information. For example, Cooper (1970) refers to an account of the diatomite works by Dr. J.A. MacCulloch.

Conclusion This proposed footpath has great potential. Both sides of the gorge offer stunning coastal views, together with the drama of the waterfall. There are sites of archaeological interest on both sides and construction of footpaths all the way down to the sites would allow for visitors to explore the ruins in detail whilst enjoying the shoreline location – although safety and erosion may be an issue. The fact that the sites are upstanding and recognisable makes them ideal candidates for interpretation material, and the sites can be easily viewed from a distance at the top of the cliffs where panels could be sited.

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Footpath 03 Culnacnoc – Inver Tote – Brother’s Point

The proposed Brother’s Point footpath (Illus 7) runs from Culnacnoc to Inver Tote. It takes the walker through a landscape full of post-medieval settlement and field systems, with the Trotternish Ridge to the west and good views of the Old Man of Storr to the south. The path links in to the easily accessible route along the shore past Port Earlish to Brother’s Point.

Historical Maps First Edition 25-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness Skye Sheet XII.2 (Kilmuir) First Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire (Isle of Skye), Sheet XII Survey date: 1875 Publication date: 1880 At the start of the footpath at Culnacnoc, this map shows a track running in an easterly direction from what is now the A855. Along the side of the track is the Kilena Burial Ground, followed by a string of roofed buildings with associated enclosures. Towards Brother’s Point there are two roofed structures slightly above the high tide line. On Brother’s Point, Hasan is depicted.

To the south of Culnacnoc is the abandoned settlement of Lonfearn. Three unroofed buildings and an enclosure are shown close to a track. An irregularly shaped enclosure lies to the east of a dyke system, with a second enclosure at the southern end of a stream running north-south.

Heading towards Inver Tote, there is a further dyke system with three unroofed structures and an enclosure. A dyke runs from the shore at Inver Tote in a north-northwesterly direction up to the cliff top and for a short distance thereafter.

Second Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire – Isle of Skye Sheet XII Publication date: 1903 Date revised: 1901 By the time of the 2nd Edition revision, there has been only a little change, principally along the track from Culnacnoc towards Port Earlish. Four of the structures have become unroofed or disappeared altogether.

Aerial Images Significant remains of settlement at Port Earlish, Culnacnoc and Lonfearn are clearly visible on the satellite imagery, together with areas of rig and furrow that are not so easily discerned on the ground. Two structures at the shore to the west of Brother’s Point are also visible, as is the structure on the summit of the point.

Highland Historic Environment Record The following sites were noted in the vicinity:

MHG5256 NG 5162 6250 Kilena Chapel and Cemetery MHG40718 According to local tradition Kilena is the site of a chapel. In 1961, the OS noted that at the highest point in the western half of the burial ground there is a slightly raised area without graves, possibly the site of the chapel.

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MHG37367 NG 5206 6260 Port Earlish, Lithics Scatter A lithic scatter was recorded between October 1999 and May 2000 as part of the Scotland's First Settlers Project.

MHG6675 NG 5210 6253 Lonfearn, structures About 600m west of Dun Hasan on Brother’s Point, on flat ground by the intersection of two burns at 30m OD, are two turf-covered structures which measure roughly 2m in diameter. These structures were not on the footpath route. MHG4078 NG 5172 6223 Lonfearn, hut circle or structure Some 30 yards from the right bank of Lonfearn Burn, and about 250 yards northeast of the bridge which crosses it about 1/4 mile south of Culnaknock, RCAHMS visited a hut circle in 1915, which measured 12' in diameter within a 3' wide stone wall, 6" - 1'6" high. When the OS visited in 1961 the hut circle was in poor condition. They noted it sat in an area of lazy beds, which respected it. On revisiting in 1971, the OS no longer described the structures as a hut circle, but as a structure most likely contemporary with the abandoned settlement to the north.

MHG23942 NG 5190 6200 Lonfearn, township A township and a farmstead are depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Inverness-shire, Isle of Skye 1880, sheet xii). The township comprises six unroofed long buildings, five enclosures, some field walls and a head-dyke. The farmstead comprises four roofed buildings, one is an L-shaped building and three are arranged around a courtyard, and an enclosure. On the current edition of the OS 1:10000 map (1993) the township comprises eleven unroofed buildings, three enclosures, some field walls and part of a head- dyke. The courtyard farmstead had been abandoned and is depicted as an incomplete enclosure.

MHG5255 NG 5262 6262 Brother’s Point, Dun Hasan The following description was recorded by RCAHMS (1928) during their visit in 1915): Rudha nam Brathairean is a low flat peninsula connected with the high cliff of the mainland by a narrow ridge rising to a sharp crest. Blocking the outer edge of this ridge is a flat-topped rock with precipitous sides, rising about 100' from the sea and about 50' above the flat grassy plateau between it and the extreme point of the promontory. The summit of this rock, occupied by Dun Hasan, is of irregular shape and measures about 88' NW-SE by 40'. Across the SW, accessible, side are the remains of a straight, well-built, drystone wall erected at a distance varying from a few inches to about 4' from the edge of the rock. The entrance through this wall is broken down, but for a distance of about 18' to the NW the outer face shows a height of some 2'6", and the extension to the SE is clearly defined, though covered with vegetation. Round the remaining part of the circumference of the dun there is a parapet of earth and a few stones, 6' in width and 3' in height.

Later visits by the Ordnance Survey in 1961 and 1971 recorded the following details: Not an Iron Age defence, but a later complex occupying the whole of Rubha nam Brathairean, probably a monastic establishment. The structure described by RCAHMS and planned by OS field surveyor (A S P) occupies the whole of the level summit of a triangular precipitous crag known as Dun Hasan, which rises some 20' above the approach route from the SW along a crumbling knife-edged ridge. It measures internally about 19.5m N-S by 8.0m at its widest point in the S, within a wall of indeterminate thickness whose straight, vertical outer face in the W is well

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preserved to a maximum height of 0.9m, with traces of it also in the E and S. The wall is bonded with shell mortar. Midden material of animal bones and winkle shells is visible in the collapsed SW corner. The entrance, reached by means of a winding path up the cliff, has been midway along the W side but has completely fallen away. Except for a circular depression 1.5m in diameter and 0.3m deep in the SW corner, possibly a well, the interior is featureless.

A similar precipitous path leads down the crag in the NE to a level turf-covered sub- rectangular area measuring c. 80.0m NE-SW by c. 60.0m, bounded by cliffs in the NW and SE and by a natural depression c. 20.0m wide in the NE. There are traces of a wall around the edge with an intermittent outer face visible in the E and in the NW corner where it stands to a height of two courses. The interior is featureless. Immediately NE of the natural depression is another level area, roughly triangular on plan and measuring c. 60.0m NE-SW by c. 33.0m at its widest point in the SW. This too has been surrounded by a wall, best preserved as a turf-covered bank along the N side with several outer facing stones visible. In the interior are two small turf- covered structures, one oval measuring c. 5.0m x c. 3.5m near the NE corner, the other circular c. 4.0m in diameter about midway near the SE side. There are also traces of other possible structures too vague to interpret.

MHG5260 NG52779 62759 Quern Quarry A local researcher, Roddy Mainland, reported the site of a possible quern stone quarry on the north eastern side of the Rubha nam Brathairean peninsula in the Trotternish area of Skye. The site was described as a roughly horizontal ledge system spanning 150 to 200 metres and exhibiting many hundreds of circular markings. The markings are consistent in size, ranging from 350 to 400mm across and varying from clear cut to very weathered. There is no local knowledge or tradition relating to this particular site, although there are local stories about the peninsula in general. Fraser Hunter, Principal Curator of Iron Age & Roman Collections at the National Museums Scotland, visited the site in June 2007. His notes from the visit confirm the details given by Mr Mainland. It was noted that the positioning of the circles is not random, but they appear to be more common closer to the water and they occur mostly in clusters focused on the corners and edges of outcrops. The circles seem essentially to be surface features. Where vertical "stacks" are apparent the lower circles project further forward than the upper ones. Any tool marks have been eroded away by water action. There are several aspects to the site which are consistent with quarrying activity and inconsistent with a natural origin. It is noted, however, that there are difficulties regarding the inaccessibility of the site, but it seems most likely that access would have been by sea. The size and shape of the putative quern stones gives little clue as to date, as quern stones of this type were used in the area from the Iron Age to the recent past. A site visit was carried out by Øystein James Jansen, assistant professor of geology at University of Bergen, in July 2012 to determine if the site use. After visiting the site, Jansen was convinced that this was the remnants of a quern stone quarry. He determined that the 'side by side' technique was dominantly used, however the 'coin pile method' was also used. The quarry site was described as expanding from the base of the cliff for a distance of 200 metres. The depth of the quarrying appeared to vary from less than half a metre up to a few metres at most. A unique aspect to the quarry site was also reported: at high tide the entire quarry site is submerged under water, meaning that any debris left over after quarrying would have been washed away periodically. It was also noted that the proximity to the sea could have provided transport for trade.

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Illus 7: Location of the proposed Brother’s Point path and archaeological sites

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Walkover Survey

The walkover survey recorded 54 archaeological sites, which relate mainly to post-medieval settlement and agriculture. The Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites (Table 2) provides detailed information of the sites identified in the vicinity of this proposed route.

Culnacnoc (Illus 9) Commencing the walk at the northern end of the route, the path follows an existing track that is shown on the historical mapping and which leads the walker in a westerly direction through the remains of an intensive post-medieval farming landscape. The first site of interest is Kilena Chapel and Cemetery. On a small mound within the burial ground are the possible remains of a structure, comprising two alignments of large stones (Illus 8), and a small stone-built, possible burial chamber (sites 3-1 and 3-2). On either side of the track are the degraded remains of the many walls depicted on the historical mapping, which acted as boundaries between fields (sites 3-3, 3-4, 3-5 and 3-6i).

To the east and northeast of the point where the path takes a sharp turn to the south, a small cluster of sites was recorded. On the south side of the track, sites 3-6a (Illus 10) and 3-6b comprised the much degraded remains of a small rectangular structure, possibly a house, with a stone and turf bank running off its southeast corner, which may have formed part of a kale-yard. These remains have not been previously recorded and are not depicted on the historical mapping. This suggests they were in a degraded state at the time of the first OS survey in 1875 and could date to the early 1800s. On the north side of the track was a larger cluster of ruinous buildings, sites 3-6c-3-6g. This was a complex set of settlement buildings with several phases of use. The 1st Edition OS map shows two roofed buildings set within a kale-yard; by the time of the 2nd Edition map the buildings have conjoined to form a T-shape. Structures 3-6c and 3-6d (Illus 11) are located where the buildings are shown on the historical mapping, but did not appear to have formed a single building. Structures 3-6f and 3-6g are of a similar construction to 3-6c and 3-6d, but are not shown on the mapping, which suggests they post-date 1901. Structure 3-6e (Illus 11) was of a different construction, which included the use of mortar in the walls, suggesting it is the latest building in the cluster. The western wall of the kale-yard, site 3-6h, is not shown on the historical mapping, but may well have been included as part of site 3-6i by the surveyors.

The small settlement represented by sites 3-6c - 3-6h are the remains of a post-medieval farmstead, which was occupied since before the 1875 Ordnance Survey until sometime after the 1901 survey. Although it was not possible to identify for certain the function of each structure, it is likely they represent byres, sheds and at least one house. The settlement was not found in the OS Name Books.

Illus 8:

Possible structure, site 3- 1, in Kilena burial ground

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Illus 9:

Location of the archaeological sites at Culnacnoc

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Illus 10: Remains of structure 3-6a

Illus 11: Site 3-6e in the foreground, site 3-6c immediately behind and site 3-6d to the left

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Lonfearn (Illus 13) As the track passes Kilena cemetery and heads to the turn south, the walker has a wonderful view of the landscape to the southeast. The settlement of Lonfearn, its associated areas of rig and furrow and a large enclosure are all easily visible. Turning right at the path junction at the base of the slope, there are a large number of boundary walls and dykes in the vicinity of the settlement structures (sites 3-7–3-12, 3-25- 26, 3-29, 3-31). These are generally constructed of stone and turf and vary in degraded states of preservation. Only 3- 25 and 3-26 are shown on the historical mapping, which would suggest that the remainder relate to a phase of occupation that is much earlier than 1875 when the first OS survey was carried out.

The settlement itself is complex and there would appear to be more than one phase of use. The historical mapping only depicts three unroofed structures in this area, whereas eleven possible structures were recorded (sites 3-15 -16, 3-19 – 24, 3-27-28 and 3-30). Some present as low stone and turf footings, but others are upstanding to a degree and easily visible. It is difficult to match with certainty any of the recorded structures to those depicted on the maps; possibly site 3-22 (Illus 12) is the most southerly building depicted. Site 3-15 is undoubtedly the structure initially recorded in 1915 as a dun. It is, however, as later amended, a longhouse, the date of which is uncertain. The house (site 3-27; Illus 14) that is attached to wall 3-26 can be said to post-date 1901 as it does not appear on the 2nd Edition OS map, unless it was not recorded by the OS. Lonfearn was not found in the OS Name Books.

Animal husbandry is evidenced by two large enclosures (sites 3-22 and 3-34-36 (Illus 7)) and a small group of possible shielings towards Inver Tote (site 3-39; Illus 7; Illus 15). Site 3-24 is also a possible shieling, which sits on a small mound overlying a possible earlier hut circle. Cultivation activity is evidenced by clusters of clearance cairns (sites 3-13 and 3-14), various dykes and a possible kale-yard (site 3-17). The clearance cairns together with some of the low orthostat boundary walls appear to represent field systems remnant of earlier settlement, possibly prehistoric or medieval. These may be contemporary with the earlier structural remains, and represent a settlement pre-dating post-medieval occupation. The presence of site 3-24 over a possible earlier structure lends further proof to this.

Illus 12: Site 3-22 in the foreground with site 3-23 to the right of the scale pole

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Illus 13:

Location of the archaeological sites at Lonfearn

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Illus 14: Site 3-27, the house attached to wall 3-26

Illus 15: Overlooking the location of Site 3-39, a group of five possible shielings

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Port Earlish (Illus 19) and Brother’s Point (Illus 7) Turning left at the junction at the base of the Culnacnoc slope, the path passes a well- preserved sheep fank (site 3-40) on the east bank of the burn at the base of a steep outcrop. This is not depicted on the historical mapping, which suggests it post-dates 1901. Following a desire path towards the Brother’s Point headland, the ruins of a small fishing bothy (site 3-41; Illus 16) built against a rock outcrop near the shore were recorded. This is shown as roofed on both the 1st and 2nd Editions of the OS maps and was therefore built prior to 1875. A second building shown on the maps in this area was not surveyed. A stone and turf dyke (site 3-42) and a short fragment of wall (site 3-43) were recorded to the southwest of the Point. At Brother’s Point, structural remains of wide, stone/grass banks (site 3-44) were recorded on the highest point of the peninsula while on the grass-covered terrace itself there were only very faint remains of what once was a structure (site 3-45), but now appears as low, grass-covered banks on the north side of the outcrop. Only a few courses of stonework are visible along the outcrop. At the end of the Point a small subcircular structure (site 3-47; Illus 20) was also recorded. In addition, Brother’s Point provides a good vantage point for viewing the quern quarry (site 3-48) on its eastern shore; the circular areas where stone has been hewn out are easily visible (Illus 17).

Returning from Brother’s Point and following the footpath uphill, the route passes a small group of structures comprising a house, a structure, three enclosures and a dyke. The dyke (site 3-49) is now grass-covered and would probably have formed a head-dyke. Two enclosures were recorded to the north of the dyke. Site 3-51 formed an incomplete enclosure with a small pen attached to its eastern end. This enclosure is shown as complete on the 1st Edition OS map. By the time of the 2nd Edition map it is disused, depicted as recorded during the survey. The small pen, however, is not shown and this is probably a later addition. The enclosure (site 3-50) is depicted on the 2nd Edition map with two compartments; due to dense vegetation this was not evident during survey. The house (site 3-52; Illus 18) is shown on the 1st Edition map as roofed with an unroofed section attached to its south-western gable. This may have been an earlier structure that had gone out of use, as it is not shown on the 2nd Edition map, although the house is still roofed. To the northeast of the house is a small enclosure (site 3-53), which is depicted on the historical mapping. To the east of this, a further building (site 3-54) was recorded, which is not depicted on the historical mapping suggesting it post-dates 1901.

Illus 16:

Site 3-41, fishing bothy on the path to Brother’s Point

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Illus 17: Site 3-48, the quern quarry visible from Brother’s Point

Illus 18: Site 3-52, the house at Port Earlish

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Illus 19:

Location of the archaeological sites at Port Earlish

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Table 2: Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for the Culnacnoc – Inver Tote footpath

Ht Site Align Photo Site type Site name Description Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. ment No. (m)

The possible remains of a structure comprise two alignments of large stones and boulders Mound / 3-1 Kilena partially revetted into a low mound at the N-S Degraded Unknown 87 151644 862511 70-73 MHG5256 structure centre of the burial yard. The walls measure 0.5m wide and stand up to 0.6m high

A small square stone-built enclosure may be the remains of a burial chamber or chapel. The walls measure 0.5m wide and stand Structure 0.6m high at the N end and 1.2m high at the Ruinous and burial 3-2 Kilena S end. There is a small aperture 10cm wide E-W and well- Unknown 87 151639 862500 70-73 MHG5256 ground in the base of the N wall. A well-built stone preserved enclosure and mortared wall measuring 34m E-W by 21m and standing approximately 1.4m high encloses the cemetery.

The remains of a stone/turf bank under dense vegetation appear to be the remains ENE- Very Post 3-3 Structure Culnaknock of a structure overlain by the road. It 77 151724 862530 70-73 - WSW degraded Medieval comprises low banks spread up to 1.7m wide and 0.2m high.

A stone dyke with walls spread to 0.7m wide Boundary NW- Post 3-4 Culnaknock and standing up to 0.7m high is attached to Degraded 77 151763 862487 77 - Wall SE Medieval the E corner of structure 3-4.

A short tag of revetted drystone wall 1m high WNW Post 3-5 Wall Culnaknock survives between outcrops above a small Degraded 77 151728 862557 - - -ESE Medieval quarry. The grass-covered stone and turf subrectangular structure measures 3m E-W ENE- Very 3-6a Structure Culnaknock by 2m internally. There is no clear entrance Unknown 77 151824 862571 85 - WSW degraded and the walls are spread 0.75-1m wide and stand up to 0.4m high.

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Ht Site Align Photo Site type Site name Description Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. ment No. (m)

The grass-covered remains of a stone and turf banks standing 0.1-0.3m high and NW- Very Post 3-6b Enclosure Culnaknock 66 151825 862559 79-80 - spread 0.2-0.5m wide probably formed an SE degraded Medieval enclosure or kale-yard attached to Site 3-6a

A rectangular grass/turf-covered stone building measures 10m ENE-WSW by 6m ENE- Post 3-6c House Culnaknock over walls 0.8m wide and stands 1.5m high. Degraded 50 151810 862602 79-82 - WSW Medieval The building is double-faced, has rounded corners and is attached to an enclosure wall.

A rectangular stone building measures 6.5m ENE-WSW by 4.5m over walls 0.75m wide and stands up to 1.25m high. The building is ENE- Post 79-81, 3-6d Building Culnaknock Degraded 50 151816 862596 - double-faced, has internal/external rounded WSW Medieval 83, 84 corners and orthostats in SW gable end. Open at ENE end A rectangular stone and mortar building measures 5.1m ENE-WSW by 3m over walls ENE- Post 3-6e Building Culnaknock 0.45m wide and stands 0.75-1.25m high. The Degraded 50 151819 862605 79-81 - WSW Medieval building is double-faced with an entrance on the ENE end. A rectangular stone building measures 4m ENE-WSW by 3m over walls 0.8m wide and stands up to 1.5m high. The building is ENE- Post 3-6f Building Culnaknock Degraded 75 151826 862586 79-80 - double-faced, with rounded corners and an WSW Medieval entrance in the ENE wall. It is partially revetted at the SW end.

A rectangular stone building measures 5m NNW-SSE by 3m over walls 0.75m wide and NNW- Post 3-6g Building Culnaknock stands up to 1.25m high. The building is Degraded 75 151828 862595 79-80 - SSE Medieval double-faced, with rounded corners and an entrance in the ENE wall.

A grass-covered drystone wall forms an NW- Post 3-6h Enclosure Culnaknock Degraded 75 151811 862603 79-80 - enclosure around the buildings. SE Medieval

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Ht Site Align Photo Site type Site name Description Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. ment No. (m) A grass-covered stone/turf boundary dyke Boundary contains some orthostats and is partially NW- Post 3-6i Culnaknock Degraded 66 151887 862476 79-80 - dyke revetted on the W side, with walls 0.5-1m SE Medieval high and spread to 0.8m wide. The remains of a turf and stone dyke Brother's NW- Very Post 3-7 Dyke comprise banks spread up to 0.9m wide and 35 151945 862501 - - Point SE degraded Medieval standing up to 0.5-1m high. The remains of a stone dyke measures 0.6m NE- Very 3-8 Dyke Culnaknock wide and stands 0.6-0.8m high under dense Unknown 35 151991 862440 - - SW degraded grasses and bracken. The remains of a grass- and bracken- Very 3-9 Dyke Culnaknock covered turf/stone dyke stands 0.2-0.7m high E-W Unknown 35 151941 862395 - - degraded and measures 0.6-8m wide. The remains of a grass-covered turf dyke Stone Brother's Very 3-10 comprise a bank spread up to 1m wide and N-S Unknown 35 151977 862355 - - spread Point degraded standing 0.25-3m high. A roughly linear alignment of boulders is Stone Brother's spread up to 2.5m wide. It may form part of Very 3-11 N-S Unknown 40 151995 862282 - - spread Point an older boundary wall or comprise field degraded clearance. A spread of stone and orthostats measures Brother's Very 3-12 Wall 0.5-1.8m wide and probably forms the N-S Unknown 35 151959 862308 86 - Point degraded remains of an early boundary wall. A group of grass-covered clearance cairns lying across the E-facing slope comprise Clearance Very 3-13 Lon Fearn small-large stones and vary in size, from N/A Unknown 35 1518 8622 87, 89 - cairn degraded between 2-5m in diameter and 0.25-0.5m high A grass-covered cairn grass cairn measures 8m NE-SW by 5m and up to 0.5m high. It is located within the remains of a field system NE- Very 3-14 Cairn Lon Fearn Unknown 65 151859 862295 89 - and is probably a clearance cairn. It SW degraded comprises large stone and boulders with 3 or 4 stones set upright around the edges.

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Ht Site Align Photo Site type Site name Description Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. ment No. (m)

A grass-covered turf/stone subrectangular structure measures 8m NE-SW by 3m internally. The walls, spread 1-1.5m wide and NE- Very 3-15 Building Lon Fearn Unknown 50 151802 862357 88 - up to 0.75m high, are partially revetted with SW degraded rounded corners. A platform on the E side may be an attached porch.

At the base of a rocky escarpment is a stone- built subrectangular structure measuring 8m NW-SE by 4m with walls 0.75m wide and NW- Post 3-16 Building Lon Fearn Degraded 50 151793 862299 90 - standing up to 1.25m high. It has rounded SE Medieval corners and a possible entrance in the E wall. The remains of a stone/turf enclosure comprise banks spread up to 1m wide and NNW- Post 3-17 Enclosure Lon Fearn Degraded 50 151814 862274 - - 0.5m high. It measures at least 15m NNW- SSE Medieval SSE A grass-covered stone road surface with a stone-built revetted NE face forms a ramp Road / NW- Post 3-18 Lon Fearn measuring 2.5m wide standing up to 1m Degraded 65 151809 862249 93 - ramp SE Medieval high. It must have formed part of a road/track. A stone-built subrectangular structure measures 3.1m ENE-WSW by 2.5m. It comprises single-faced walls 0.75m wide and 1.1m high, revetted into a stone/turf-built Building / mound extending 0.5m out from the walls. ENE- Very Post 3-19 Lon Fearn 65 151790 862257 94-6 - Wall The entrance 0.7m wide is in the ENE wall. WSW degraded Medieval The grass covered remains of a low rubble bank is spread out to 1m and stands up to 0.4m high. It appears to form the remains of a boundary wall attached to the building. A grass-covered stone/turf subrectangular building measures 9m ENE-WSW by 5m ENE- Very 3-20 Building Lon Fearn over walls spread 0.8-1m wide and standing Unknown 70 151781 862274 98 - WSW degraded up to 0.55m high. Probable entrance in ENE wall.

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Ht Site Align Photo Site type Site name Description Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. ment No. (m)

The very degraded remains of grass-covered stone/turf banks 0.2-0.3m high. The structure NW- Very 3-21 Structure Lon Fearn was difficult to identify under dense rushes Unknown 70 151765 862287 99 - SE degraded and appears to form an amorphous cellular structure with three possible compartments.

A stone-built subrectangular structure with rounded corners measures 6m NE-SW by 91-2, 2.5m internally with walls spread up to 1m NE- Post 3-22 Building Lon Fearn Degraded 50 151835 862227 96-7, - wide and standing up to 1m high internally. SW Medieval 100 The 0.75m-wide entrance is centred on the NE wall.

The remains of a stone/turf building with rounded corners stands up to 0.75m high. NE- Very 3-23 Structure Lon Fearn Unknown 50 151846 862242 92, 97 - The surviving banks are spread 0.75-1m SW degraded wide. It predates structure 3-22. A suboval stone/turf structure measures 4.5m NE-SW by 3.5m internally with banks 86, spread 1.2-2.5m wide and standing up to NE- 3-24 Structure Lon Fearn Degraded Unknown 50 151976 862247 101, - 0.75m internally and 1.5-2m externally. SW 105 Possible entrance in the NE side. May have been built over a hut circle. The low remains of a stone/boulder dyke NE- Very Post 3-25 Dyke Lon Fearn 50 151972 862208 - - appear to link up with a well-built stone dyke. SW degraded Medieval A grass-covered well-built drystone dyke NE- Post 3-26 Dyke Lon Fearn measures 0.6m wide and stands up to 0.75m Degraded 50 152004 862217 102-3 - SW Medieval high. A stone-built rectangular building comprising two rooms measures 5.5m ENE-WSW by 4m 75, internally. The walls measure 0.75-0.9m wide ENE- Post 3-27 Building Lon Fearn Degraded 50 152022 862224 101-3, - and stand up to 1.5m high. There is an WSW Medieval 106-8 entrance 1m wide in the ENE wall and a possible entrance in the NNW wall.

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Ht Site Align Photo Site type Site name Description Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. ment No. (m) The remains of a moss- and grass-covered stone/turf subrectangular structure measures Very 3-28 Structure Lon Fearn 7.5m ENE-WSW by 5m over banks spread - Unknown 50 152058 862253 104 - degraded 1.5-2m wide and standing up to 1m high externally. The remains of a turf bank spread 0.8m wide Enclosure and standing up to 0.5m high probably Very 3-29 Lon Fearn - Unknown 50 152040 862251 - - wall formed part of an enclosure attached to Site degraded 3-28

The grass covered remains of a subcircular structure measures 6.6m by 6m over Very 3-30 Structure Lon Fearn N-S Unknown 50 152103 862244 - - turf/stone banks 1.5m wide and standing up degraded to 0.75m high.

Grass covered turf and stone low banks NE- Very 3-31 Wall Lon Fearn Unknown 60 152150 862304 - - probably form the remains of an enclosure. SW degraded A stone/turf bank spread 1.5-2m wide and standing up to 1m high forms an enclosure, NE- Post 3-32 Enclosure Lon Fearn Degraded 40 152163 862188 - - which measures 83m NE-SW by 69m SW Medieval across. A grass-covered turf / stone structure measures 8m N-S by 4m over banks spread Very 3-33 Structure Lon Fearn up to 1.5m wide and standing 0.75m high. It N-S Unknown 95 152032 862047 - - degraded is probably a shieling, built at the base of the escarpment. An enclosure built against the east side of the hill consists of grass-covered stone/turf NW- Very Post 3-34 Enclosure Lon Fearn 50 152017 861950 - - banks spread up to 1.2m wide and standing SE degraded Medieval 0.5-1m high.

An enclosure built against the west side of NW- Post 3-35 Enclosure Lon Fearn the escarpment is visible on aerial imagery. It Degraded 50 152277 862041 - - SE Medieval was not surveyed. An enclosure built against the west side of NE- Post 3-36 Enclosure Lon Fearn the escarpment is visible on aerial imagery. It Degraded 50 152238 861658 - - SW Medieval was not surveyed.

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Ht Site Align Photo Site type Site name Description Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. ment No. (m)

A grass covered turf and stone subcircular structure measures 5m in diameter with banks standing up to 0.3m high banks Very 3-37 Structure Lon Fearn N/A Unknown 95 152066 861474 109 - spread up to 0.75m wide; the entrance was degraded possibly in the SE side. It was built between outcrops at the top of the escarpment.

A small grass-covered subcircular turf/stone structure is built against the west side of an Very 3-38 Structure Lon Fearn outcrop along the cliff top. It measures 5m N/A Unknown 10 152144 860982 112 - degraded across over low banks 0.6m wide and probably formed a small shieling

The remains of five grass-covered subcircular turf/stone structures consist of low banks up to 1.5m wide and standing up Very 3-39 Shieling Lon Fearn N/A Unknown 95 152052 860831 111 - to 0.3m high. There is no substantial degraded structure visible to any of the sites, but they appear to be small shielings. The remains of a sheep fank comprise stone- Sheep built walls and wooden fencing. It is built at NE- Well- Post 3-40 Port Earlish 20 152059 862565 114 - fank the N end of narrow point of the burn at the SW preserved Medieval base of a steep outcrop.

The ruins of a stone-built rectangular building with rounded corners measures 7m E-W by Fishing 3m with walls 0.8m wide and up to 1m high Post 3-41 Port Earlish E-W Degraded 10 152273 862732 115-6 - bothy built against rock outcrop. A fragment of the Medieval footing of a wall of a second structure abuts the E side of the building.

The remains of a stone and turf dyke with Brother's Very 3-42 Dyke banks spread up to 0.9m wide and standing N/A Unknown 30 152520 862620 119 - Point degraded up to 0.7m high are built between outcrops.

Brother's A short fragment of stone dyke survives Very 3-43 Wall E-W Unknown 30 152624 862585 - - Point between outcrops at Brother's Point degraded

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Ht Site Align Photo Site type Site name Description Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. ment No. (m) The grass-covered remains of wide/stone turf banks spread to 1.8m wide and standing up Brother's Very 3-44 Enclosure to 0.9m high enclose the flat area N-S Unknown 30 152674 862662 - MHG5255 Point degraded overlooking Brother's Point. It formed a probable enclosure on the cliff top. The very faint remains of grass-covered low banks 0.3m wide may have formed part of a Brother's Very 3-45 Structure structure on the N side of the outcrop. Very N/A Unknown 20 152670 862694 121-5 MHG5255 Point degraded few courses of stonework are visible along the outcrop. The low banks of a grass-covered subcircular turf/stone structure 5m in Brother's diameter, which survives at the NE end of Very 3-47 Structure N/A Unknown 20 152784 862797 137-8 - Point Brother's Point, may be a shieling. The degraded banks are spread up to 0.8m wide and stand up to 0.4m high. There is no visible entrance. The location of a quarry consists of circular Brother's areas where stone has been quarried out of 126- 3-48 Quarry N/A Degraded Unknown 0 152736 862669 MHG52601 Point the bedrock along the shore at Brother's 134 Point. The remains of a grass-covered turf/ stone ENE- Post 3-49 Dyke Port Earlish Degraded 20 152010 862665 140 - dyke form a field enclosure at Port Earlish. WSW Medieval A drystone wall built into the hillside comprises double and single-faced walling ENE- Post 3-50 Enclosure Port Earlish Ruinous 20 151979 862668 141 - measuring 0.75m wide and standing up to WSW Medieval 1.3m high. A small pen with walls 0.45m wide is built NE- Very Post 3-51 Enclosure Port Earlish into the remains of a stone/turf enclosure 20 151961 862669 - - SW degraded Medieval wall. The house, 'Taigh Ruaraidh Dhomhnaill a Chuirn', measures 17m NE-SW by 6m with double-faced stone-built walls with curved NE- Post 3-52 House Port Earlish gable end walls. The ruinous building Ruinous 20 151956 862681 141-6 - SW Medieval appears to have been divided into 4 compartments with walls 0.75m wide and windows 0.5m wide.

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Ht Site Align Photo Site type Site name Description Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. ment No. (m) The remains of a drystone, double-faced NE- Post 3-53 Enclosure Port Earlish enclosure, measuring 9m NE-SW by 8m, has Ruinous 20 151972 862686 - - SW Medieval an attached pen or fank at the SE end. A stone-built subrectangular building measures 6.6m ENE-WSW by 4m over walls spread to 0.9m wide and standing 0.5m high. Post 3-54 Building Port Earlish E-W Degraded 23 151992 862696 - - There is an internal partition and the Medieval entrance is in the SE wall. It was built at the base of the outcrop.

Illus 20: Site 3-47, possible shieling at the NE end of Brother’s Point

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Discussion and Recommendations

The proposed route from Culnacnoc to Inver Tote, with a possible extension to Brother’s Point, provides an interesting and varied walk. The surveyors started out from Culnacnoc; it was not clear where would be a suitable place to park both in terms of safety and not offending local residents. If visitors are to be encouraged to use this route some thought should be given to having a designated parking area.

The cemetery at Kilena provides a point of interest at the start of the walk and a panoramic vista over the landscape through which the route passes. An interpretation panel giving information at this point would be useful for visitors, even for those not continuing along the walk, as it provides a good vantage point. The abandoned settlements at Culnacnoc, Lonfearn and Port Earlish are all worthy of visiting and, with interpretation, would provide visitors with an insight to life and agriculture on Skye in the post-medieval period, with visible evidence of the layers of multi-period occupation. Although none of the settlements were noted in the OS Name Books, it may be possible to carry out archival research into the census records to provide details on the people who lived in the settlements adding a ‘human dimension’ to their stories. Erosion would not be a major concern at these sites, although visitors should be encouraged not to climb on the structures.

The route does not take the walker past the settlement at Culnacnoc, but it is recommended that its presence is highlighted. The present route offers an option to divert from the main path to visit the structures at Lonfearn. It is recommended that the main route is taken through the settlement and onto the ridge to take advantage of the settlement ruins as a point of interest. The proposed main route passes a small number of clearance cairns and enclosures. Whilst they are of interest archaeologically, clearance cairns hold little appeal for a visitor and can be difficult to spot. The large enclosures are highly visible banks, which are best viewed from a distance and this can be done from the ridge. Although a number of further archaeological sites were recorded between Lonfearn and Inver Tote, none hold a great deal of interest for the walker. This is of no consequence for the route as there are spectacular views of the Trotternish Ridge and the Old Man of Storr, together with the coastal cliffs.

Brother’s Point has the appeal of climbing the outcrop; however, it is not easily accessible as the visitor needs to be sure-footed. The current path, no more than a desire line, is steep and heavily eroded. Erosion on the summit would be a problem if visitor numbers increased as there is only one option for ingress and egress. The enclosure on top is not immediately apparent. The remains surveyed on the Point are grass covered mounds and would probably not hold much appeal for the majority of visitors. The quern quarry, however, is relatively unique and could be interpreted from above as it may not be immediately obvious to the untrained eye.

The small bothy between the Brother’s Point and the Port Earlish settlement has visitor appeal as it is easily accessible. It would be more interesting if archival research was done to provide more information about the type of fishing; oral history would also be an option. An interpretation panel near this spot regarding the bothy could also contain information and any local folklore about Dun Hasan, the quern quarry and the Brother’s Point peninsula for those who do not wish to venture any further.

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Conclusion This walk has much to commend it in terms of archaeological interest for the visitor including multi-period settlement sites and isolated archaeological sites of interest, such as the fishing bothy, Dun Hasan and the quern quarry. However, the sites may not be easily identifiable to the untrained eye. Provision of a map showing the details and location of the settlement ruins would be useful for visitors following the footpath. The map could be shown on an interpretation panel and produced on a pamphlet, which could be obtained in local venues. It should be noted that further settlement sites, which are visible on aerial imagery, were not surveyed during the present study as they lie too far away from the proposed footpath.

Footpath 04 Grealin - Lealt The proposed Grealin - Lealt footpath (Illus 21) is a short, easy walk that follows an old track from Grealin and then joins old diatomite railway line to Inver Tote. It takes the walker through a relatively flat, boggy landscape with few features of archaeological interest.

Historical Maps First Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire (Isle of Skye), Sheet XII Survey date: 1875 Publication date: 1880 Grealin is shown on this map as a string of six roofed houses, with associated enclosures and small structures, which are situated either side of a track running southwards from Breckruy to Lealt. Each house sits within a defined field. There are no further structures along the track until Lealt, where there is a cluster of five roofed buildings and an enclosure sitting within a large field. There are a further four field fields fanning out along the Lealt River each containing roofed structures and enclosures. A dyke is shown roughly where the unclassified road runs today. There are an enclosure and unroofed structure shown to the south of this.

Second Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire – Isle of Skye Sheet XII Publication date: 1903 Date revised: 1901 By the time of the 2nd Edition map the road from Breckruy has changed its route and runs to the west of the houses at Grealin. There have been few changes to the structures and enclosures. A new house has been erected towards the north of the settlement. The biggest change is to the most southern of the houses. The house on the 1st Edition has gone leaving only the enclosure and a new house and enclosure has been built to its southeast. At Lealt there has also been little change with only the addition of two new houses.

Aerial Images Much of the remains of the buildings and enclosures depicted on the historical mapping at Grealin are clearly visible on the satellite imagery. Parts of the 1875 track can also be picked out. To the south of Grealin and to the west of the track is an area of rig and furrow cultivation that is not depicted on the historical mapping. The structures and enclosures at Lealt are also easily visible. Interestingly, the degraded remains of what are obviously earlier buildings can also be seen and these are not shown on the historical mapping.

Highland Historic Environment Record A search of the Highland Council Historic Environment Record (HHER) revealed no sites in the vicinity of the proposed footpath. - 42 - Archaeological Feasibilty Study Report: Staffin Community Trust New Pathways 2014-28/SCT14

Illus 21:

Location of the proposed Grealin – Lealt footpath and the archaeological sites

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Walkover Survey

The walkover survey recorded fourteen archaeological sites, most of which relate to post- medieval settlement and agriculture. The Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites (Table 3) provides detailed information of the sites identified in the vicinity of this proposed route.

Grealin (Illus 21) Two small clusters of sites were recorded at Grealin. A substantial dyke (site 4-10; Illus 22) was recorded to the east of the northern end of the route, which encloses an area of rig and furrow. Sites 4-11 and 4-12 are two structures, which were not surveyed, but which are depicted on the historical mapping and visible on the aerial imagery. Sites 4-7-4-9, two dykes and a possible structure, were recorded on the periphery of the area of rig and furrow visible on the aerial imagery, but not depicted on the historical mapping. All of these sites were in a much degraded state. A well-preserved bridge (site 4-6) crosses the burn to the southeast of the aforementioned sites.

Lealt (Illus 21) At Lealt, the proposed pathway follows the route of the dismantled railway (site 4-3) across a stretch of bog. There is evidence of past peat-cutting activity such as the area recorded at site 4-1. Cultivation has also taken place here; the remains of a turf and stone boundary dyke (site 4-2) were recorded on the south side of the track, which enclosed an area of rig and furrow with rigs aligned NE-SW. An enclosure (site 4-4) and a dyke (site 4-5) were also recorded at the point where the proposed path leaves the former railway and joins the old track. To the south of the unclassified road, two structures were noted (sites 4-13 (Illus 23) and 4-14). They comprised a stone/boulder structure built against the slope with an enclosure attached to it. This building is depicted on the historical mapping as being unroofed by 1875, although the enclosure is not shown. From the road, it is possible to see a vast array of ruinous remains and, looking to the east, good examples of rig and furrow cultivation (Illus 24).

Illus 22: Site 4-10, a substantial dyke at Grealin

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Illus 23: Site 4-13, a structure built into the slope below the unclassified road

Illus 24: Looking east towards the Lealt Gorge showing a good example of rig and furrow cultivation (note the number of visitors at the gorge)

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Table 3: Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for the Grealin – Lealt footpath

Ht Site Site Photo HHER Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing No. name No. No. (m)

Peat Post 4-1 Lealt An area of peat cutting is clearly visible in the heather- and N/A Degraded 100 151431 860662 - - cutting Medieval grass- covered moorland.

The remains of a turf-covered turf/stone boundary dyke Very 149- 4-2 Dyke Lealt comprise banks spread up to 1.5m wide and standing up to NE-SW Unknown 85 151307 860669 - degraded 150 0.75m high. To the SE, it encloses and area of rig and furrow aligned NE-SW.

The old grass-covered peat road runs NW-SE across the Post 4-3 Track Lealt moorland. It measures 5-7m wide and formed part of the old NW-SE Ruinous 85 151088 860834 - - Medieval diatomite railway line.

Under grass, moss and rushes is the remains of a turf/stone Very 4-4 Enclosure Lealt bank measuring 1-1.5m wide and standing up to 1.25m high. It NE-SW Unknown 95 150943 860904 - - degraded probably formed an enclosure.

Boundary Under grass, moss and rushes is the remains of a turf/stone Very 4-5 Lealt N-S Unknown 95 151025 860949 - - dyke bank measuring 1-1.5m wide and standing up to 1 high. degraded

A stone-built bridge comprising dressed stone with later Well- Post 4-6 Bridge Lealt cement bonding crosses a burn near Lealt. It measures 6m N-S 100 150775 861230 154 - preserved Medieval long and 2.5m wide with a 1.25m wide span 1.5m high.

The remains of a turf/stone bank under grass is spread up to Very 4-7 Dyke Lealt 1.2m wide and stands up to 0.8m high. It probably formed the NE-SW Unknown 100 150705 861263 - - degraded remains of field boundaries.

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Ht Site Site Photo HHER Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing No. name No. No. (m)

The grass-covered remains of a turf/stone bank measures 1- Very 4-8 Dyke Lealt NNE-SSW Unknown 110 150701 861336 155 - 2m wide and stands up to 0.4-0.7m high. degraded

A grass-covered subcircular hollow 3m in diameter appears to Poss Very 4-9 Lealt be enclosed by turf banks 0.5m high. It is the possible remains N/A Unknown 100 150730 861357 - - structure degraded of a turf structure.

A grass- and rushes-covered turf/stone dyke stands up to 0.8 high with banks spread up to 0.8m wide. It continues below the 4-10 Dyke Lealt E-W Degraded Unknown 110 150817 861565 159 - later house fenced enclosure and encloses an area of rig and furrow with rigs aligned E-W and up to 4m wide.

The remains of a building are visible on aerial imagery to the E Post 4-11 Structure Lealt NE-SW Degraded 100 150873 861558 - - side of a present house plot. Medieval

The remains of a suboval structure are visible on aerial Very 4-12 Structure Lealt E-W Unknown 100 150910 861463 - - imagery to the SE of a present house plot. degraded

A subrectangular stone/boulder building with rounded corners consists of a battered S wall with gable ends built into the WNW- 4-13 Building Lealt hillside to N. It measures 17.5m WNW-ESE over walls 1m Degraded Unknown 80 151161 860614 161-2 - ESE wide, with an entrance in the SE side w/ the remains of an attached porch.

A grass-covered turf/stone wall forms an enclosure attached to WNW- 4-14 Building Lealt Degraded Unknown 80 151150 860605 161-2 - building 4-13. It measures 17m WNW-ESE by 14m. ESE

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Discussion and Recommendations

This is a short, easy walk through boggy moorland. In terms of its archaeological and historical interest, it links in well with the Lealt Gorge footpath. Not only is it a natural extension to the proposed footpath to the diatomite factory, it also follows a section of the old diatomite railway line and provides a first-hand view of the path followed by so many as they travelled between the mine and Inver Tote during the early 1900s. Otherwise, the footpath has little to commend it in terms of archaeological interest for the visitor. The majority of the sites recorded were dykes and enclosures and generally in a degraded state. Vegetation growth, such as the rushes covering site 4-10, can rapidly obscure such remains rendering them invisible to the casual observer. Sites 4-7-4-9 are situated beyond a fence which runs alongside the proposed path route. They are not easily visible from the path, but are not of sufficient interest to recommend rerouting of the path.

The most interesting archaeological sites are the ruins of the abandoned settlement at Lealt (shown on the historical mapping as discussed above), which are located to the south of the unclassified road on the north bank of the River Lealt. They were not surveyed as they are some distance from the proposed route, but are visible from the road itself, whereas Sites 4- 13 and 4-14 are located by the roadside and are highly visible and easily accessed. One proposal would be to change the route so that upon return from Grealin, it follows the unclassified road from Lealt to the A855, rather than back across the moor. This would allow a vantage point over the impressive ruins (Illus 25), whilst also taking in the impressive view towards Lealt Gorge and beyond. The extensive areas of rig and furrow are also more obvious in this direction. Erosion is unlikely to be an issue for the sites on this route as all can be viewed from the path.

Conclusion

The Grealin-Lealt proposed footpath has a small number of sites of archaeological interest that will appeal to the casual visitor. However, by including the impressive ruins along the river, it increases the affect that this landscape has on the visitor – evoking memories of the hard-working communities surviving here during the 19th and 20th centuries.

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Illus 25: West-ward view from the road of the ruins of the post-medieval settlement at Lealt

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Illus 26:

Location of the proposed Garafad footpath and the archaeological sites

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Footpath 06 Garafad The proposed Garafad footpath (Illus 26) starts at the Columba Centre and takes the walker through a landscape that has been occupied and used since prehistoric times. There is much to interest visitors in the landscape, both on the cliff top and along the shore. Although not on the proposed route, the extensive settlement remains at Garafad surveyed at the request of SCT could be easily accessed from the path without extra footpath construction.

Historical Maps First Edition 25-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness Skye Sheet VIII.1 (Kilmuir) Survey date: 1875 Publication date: 1880 This map shows a roofed ‘L’-shaped house and two other roofed structures, together with three probable unroofed structures in the vicinity of the abandoned Garafad settlement. To the southeast of these structures is an extensive dyke system that continues for some distance on the cliff top. Attached to the dyke nearest the settlement is an unroofed structure. A track runs along the base of the cliffs towards Breun Phort, where there is a dyke and curvilinear enclosures are shown on the fields to the south and southeast. A small unroofed structure is depicted next to the shoreline on the west side of Breun Phort.

Second Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire – Isle of Skye Sheet VIII Publication date: 1904 Date revised: 1901 By the time of this map, the structures at Garafad are no longer roofed. A small, square unroofed structure has been added to the west side of the dyke running south-eastwards from the attached structure. At Breun Phort, the small unroofed building is no longer shown.

Aerial Images The extensive remains at Garafad are clearly visible on the aerial imagery as is the dyke network on the cliff top and down towards the shore. Other structures are also visible that are not depicted on the historical mapping such as a rectangular building within the boulder scree at the foot of Sgeir Bhan and an enclosure to the west of this. Large areas of rig and furrow can be seen on the level ground between the cliffs and the shore.

Highland Historic Environment Record The following sites were noted in the vicinity of the route:

MHG5748 NG 4930 6780 Garafad, depopulated settlement, Kilmuir Scheduled Monument 3510 In 1961, the Ordnance Survey described this as a depopulated township (? Garrafad), which comprised 22 ruined houses (2 overlain by modern sheep-dipping pens) and some outbuildings. RCAHMS described it as a township comprising three roofed, two unroofed buildings, an unroofed structure, some field walls and a head-dyke as depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Inverness-shire, Island of Skye 1880, sheet viii) with a field- system lying approximately 400m to the E of the buildings (NG 497 678). Ten unroofed buildings, three enclosures, one of which has four compartments, a sheepfold, field walls, a field-system and a head-dyke are shown on the current edition of the OS 1:10560 map (1968).

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MHG5757 NG 4955 6757 Cairn, Cadha Riach Scheduled Monument 3519 Beaker sherds and plain sherds, which were found with cremated bone at a site, possibly a ring-cairn, at Cadha Riach, were donated to the NMAS in 1970 by C C MacLeod, Portree. The site is described as the remains of a chambered cairn surviving as a circular turf- covered mound 0.6m maximum height, spread to a diameter of c.8.5m and robbed from the east. Two probable kerb-stones in the west and three others in the south, suggest the original diameter was 7.5m. Five stones forming the western arc of the chamber survive in situ, with two others displaced, but the east half has been destroyed as has the entrance passage, which was presumably in this arc. The report state that MacLeod, a retired schoolmaster from Garrafad, Staffin, found the sherds in the southern half of the chamber where his trench is still visible. To the west of the cairn are a few peat-obscured stony mounds which appear to be stone clearance heaps.

MHG6495 / 13898 NG 4970 6770 Possible Dun, Garafad Scheduled Monument 3515 No details given.

MHG6496 NG 4990 6760 , Staffin A cave or near Staffin was found by Mr Dugald Ross. It has the remains of a stone fireplace and inside was found the remains of at least 6 craggans, one complete.

MHG35160 NG 4944 6810 Boat naust, Storehouse, Ob Nan Rob No details given.

MHG35159 NG 4944 6810 Slipway, Ob Nan Rob No details given.

Walkover Survey

The walkover survey recorded 53 archaeological sites, which relate to prehistoric through to post-medieval settlement and agriculture. The Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites (Table 4) provides detailed information of the sites identified in the vicinity of this proposed route.

Garafad Settlement (Illus 27) Leaving the Columba Centre, Staffin, the proposed route follows an existing footpath up the hill towards Cadha Riach. Once the plateau is reached, the Garafad settlement lies to the north-northwest of the route and can be reached by following the substantial remains of a stone and turf bank (site 6-2), which is bisected by the path. To the west of the dyke, and close to the path, are the grass-covered footings of a small rectangular structure (site 6-1). The dyke is shown on both editions of the OS maps, whilst the structure is shown on the 2nd Edition only. Running perpendicular to dyke 6-2 is another large stone and turf dyke (site 6- 34), to which is attached a large rectangular building (site 6-3a). This structure is shown as unroofed on the 1st Edition OS map suggesting it had gone out of use well before 1875. A twinning pen (site 6-3b) constructed inside would appear to be a later use of the building. Also attached to dyke 6-34 at its south-western end are the remains of a possible enclosure or wall. It does not appear on the historical mapping and its construction using large orthostats/boulders suggests it may be an earlier feature of agricultural use. The Garafad settlement itself is a complex array of structures, enclosures and dykes (sites 6-3-6-35). A total of 20 structures were recorded and for the most part it is difficult to state

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with any certainty what their function may have been. The exception being site 6-4 (Illus 28), which was a kiln-barn; its bowl, which would have contained a flue and a structure for drying grain, was situated at the southeast end and it had opposing entrances at the northwest end. The majority of the remaining structures appeared to have the same or similar construction: wide walls that were built from large boulders and orthostats (e.g. Illus 29), with some walls standing up to 1m in height. They ranged in length from 4m-12.5m internally and were 2m-5m wide. Entrances were difficult to discern.

It was not possible to discern on the ground which of the structures were those depicted on the historical mapping. The settlement was obviously long-lived; as most of the structures were not depicted on the 1st Edition OS map it suggests that they were in a much degraded state at the time of the 1875 survey and not thought worthy of inclusion. Although clear from the historical mapping that some of the settlement dates to the 19th century, it is not possible to say from when they date. It is possible, however, to see some evidence of phasing on the site. This is most clearly shown by enclosures 6-6 and 6-7. Although similar in size, they are different shapes and 6-6 is overlain by 6-7 on its northern side. Furthermore, as the plan (Illus 27) shows, most of the sites comprise subrectangular structures that have been extended by the addition of structures to different sides and at different angles. This suggests periodic re-use or augmentation of the sites. The narrow nature of many of the buildings is also intriguing, as is the unusually wide and long structure 6-24, to which site 6- 23 was later attached. In more recent times, a sheep fank (site 6-53) was built in the middle of the site. Overall, the ruins appear to be well-preserved and offer some intriguing possibilities in terms of their construction and time depth.

Cliff top and shoreline sites (Illus 26) Returning to the path and following it in an easterly direction brings the walker to the denuded remains of a chambered cairn (site 6-36; Illus 30) comprising five orthostats surrounded by a low spread of stones. This site, a Scheduled Monument that is not depicted on the historical mapping, was subject to a small investigation during the 1970s that produced some prehistoric Beaker pottery sherds.

As the path swings south-eastwards, there is a small cluster of post-medieval dykes (sites 6- 37-6-39, 6-45) and probable shielings (sites 6-40-6-44). Dykes 6-37 and 6-38 are depicted on the historical mapping. The shielings, although close to the route, are not easily visible as they are small, degraded structures built against the base of a rocky outcrop and obscured by vegetation. Close to the point where the route turns downslope towards the shore, another section of the dyke shown on the historical mapping was recorded (site 6-46). As the route runs downhill, the remains of a stone and orthostat dyke not shown on the historical mapping (site 6-47) was recorded crossing the slope. Areas of rig and furrow within the fields alongside the shore are visible from the cliff top and can be seen as the walker descends the slope. The dyke shown on the historical mapping to the southeast of Breun Phort was also recorded (site 6-48). One substantial and interesting structure was located in the boulder field at the base of Sgeir Bhan. It comprises a sub-rectangular building constructed from orthostats (site 6-49; Illus 31). It is not visible from the pathway and, at the time of survey, was obscured by dense bracken. Also interesting were two possible hut circles (sites 6-50 and 6-51) located at the base of the cliff below the Garafad ruins. They comprise low turf-covered banks and are not easily identifiable. Finally, the highly visible remains of several stone-built boat nausts were recorded next to the slipway (site 6-52; Illus 32).

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Illus 27:

The archaeological sites recorded at the Garafad settlement

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Illus 28: Site 6-4, the kiln barn at Garafad

Illus 29: Site 6-14, showing the wide walls built with large boulders and orthostat faces

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Illus 30: Site 6-36, the denuded chambered cairn

Illus 31: Site 6-49, the rectangular structure at the base of Sgeir Bhan under dense bracken

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Table 4: Gazetteer of Sites for the proposed Garafad path

Ht Site Site Photo Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. name No. (m)

A grass-covered stone/turf subrectangular structure measures 6m E-W by 5m over walls spread 0.5-1.5m 6-1 Structure Garafad wide and standing up to 0.5m high internally. The E-W Degraded Unknown 97 149378 867598 165 - entrance is in the E end and there is a possible twinning pen built against the S wall.

The remains of a grass-covered turf/stone dyke Very 6-2 Dyke Garafad aligned NNW-SSE comprises banks spread up to NNW-SSE Unknown 80 149384 867619 - - degraded 0.9m wide and 0.3m high.

The low remains of a grass-covered stone/turf building with rounded corners and 2 possible compartments 6-3a Building Garafad are attached to a boundary dyke. It measures 16m NE-SW Degraded Unknown 80 149379 867691 166 - NE-SW by 6m over walls spread to 1m wide and standing 0.6m high. No visible entrance.

Twinning A small stone-built twinning pen was built inside the 6-3b Garafad N/A Degraded Unknown 80 149375 867682 - - pen ruins of building 6-3a.

The grass-covered remains of a stone/turf subrectangular building w/ rounded ends measures 8.2m NW-SE by 6m over walls spread 2-2.5m wide 6-4 Kiln barn Garafad NW-SE Degraded Unknown 75 149365 867765 167-8 - and up to 1m high. Probable kiln-barn w/ the bowl 2m wide in SE side and two opposing entrances on the NW side.

A grass-covered turf/stone subrectangular structure measures 5m NE-SW by 4.5m over banks spread 0.8m wide and 0.4m high. The low grass-covered Building and Very 6-5 Garafad remains of a turf/stone bank spread up to 1m wide NE-SW Unknown 75 149388 867761 168 - dyke degraded and standing up to 0.4m high forms the probable remains of a boundary or enclosure dyke attached to the building.

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Ht Site Site Photo Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. name No. (m)

A grass-covered subcircular enclosure measuring 26m E-W by 23m was built into the rock outcrops. The rubble banks comprise stones, boulders and Very 6-6 Enclosure Garafad E-W Unknown 75 149360 867752 - - orthostats measuring 0.6-0.9m wide and standing up degraded to 0.6m high. Runs below and pre-dates enclosure 6- 7.

A grass-covered subrectangular enclosure measuring 27m NW-SE by 20m comprises rubble banks of Very 6-7 Enclosure Garafad stones and boulders spread up to 0.9m wide and NW-SE Unknown 75 149338 867791 - - degraded standing up to 0.6m high. Runs over and post-dates enclosure 6-6.

A grass-covered stone/turf subrectangular building with rounded ends measures 7m NW-SE by 2.5m with 169- 6-8 Building Garafad walls spread up to 1.2m wide and standing up to NW-SE Degraded Unknown 85 149326 867804 - 170 0.75m high internally. An internal wall (Site 6-9) appears to form a later division. A grass-covered stone/turf bank appears to form a Very 169- 6-9 Building Garafad later division inside building 6-8. The compartment NW-SE Unknown 85 149322 867807 - degraded 170 measures 2m NW-SE by 1.75m internally.

A grass-covered stone/turf subrectangular building w/ rounded internal corners measures 12.5m NE-SW by Very 6-10 Building Garafad 2.5m w/ walls spread 1.25-2m wide and standing up to NE-SW Unknown 85 149307 867799 171-2 - degraded 0.9m high internally. A 2-part porch attached to the SW end measures 6m NW-SE by 2m internally.

The remains of a grass-covered stone/turf wall built Enclosure Very 6-11 Garafad into outcrops contain orthostat boulders and probably NW-SE Unknown 85 149299 867791 - - kaleyard degraded formed an enclosure. A grass-covered boulder/turf double-faced building w/ Building rounded ends measures 7m E-W by 2.5m internally w/ and Very 6-12 Garafad walls spread 1m wide and up to 0.6m high. An E-W Unknown 80 149293 867809 173 - enclosure / degraded orthostat-built compartment attached to the N side kaleyard measures 3.5m E-W by 2.5m internally.

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Ht Site Site Photo Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. name No. (m) A grass-covered boulder/turf building w/ rounded ends measures 10.6m E-W by 5m over walls 1m wide and Enclosure Very 6-13 Garafad up to 1m high. A compartment attached to the W side E-W Unknown 80 149299 867818 173-4 - kaleyard degraded measures 3.5m N-S by 1.5m. The probable entrance is in the S wall.

A grass-covered boulder/turf subrectangular building w/ rounded ends measures 10m NE-SW by 3m Very 6-14 House Garafad internally w/ walls spread 1-2m wide and up to 0.8 NE-SW Unknown 80 149358 867804 175-7 - degraded high. It comprises large boulders/orthostats. There are 2 4m-wide compartments attached to the NE.

A grass-covered subrectangular building measures 4m NE-SW by 2m internally. The walls comprise large Very 6-15 Building Garafad boulders / orthostats measuring 1m wide and spread NE-SW Unknown 80 149361 867808 178 - degraded up to 2m wide and standing up to 0.75m high. There is no visible entrance.

A grass-covered subrectangular boulder/turf building w/ rounded ends measures 10m NW-SE by 3m over Very 6-16 Building Garafad double-faced walls 1.5-2m wide and up to 1m high. NW-SE Unknown 90 149344 867815 179 - degraded There is one internal partition and a building attached to SW measures 7.5m NE-SW by 2.5m internally.

Within building 6-16 are three cellular stone/turf Very 6-17 Structure Garafad structures between 1m-2.5m wide, which are probably N/A Unknown 90 149344 867817 - - degraded represent later re-use of the ruins. A grass-covered subrectangular boulder/turf building w/ rounded ends measures 7m NE-SW by 2.5m Very 6-18 Building Garafad NE-SW Unknown 90 149352 867831 - - internally with walls 1.5-2.5m wide and standing up to degraded 1m high. There is one possible internal partition.

The very degraded remains of a grass-covered stone / turf structure comprises large boulders and measures Very 6-19 Enclosure Garafad approximately 12m NE-SW by 6m. It is attached to NE-SW Unknown 90 149350 867841 - - degraded building 6-18 and probably formed an attached enclosure

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Ht Site Site Photo Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. name No. (m) A grass-covered subrectangular boulder/turf building w/ rounded ends measures 6.5m NE-SW by 2m Very 6-20 Building Garafad NE-SW Unknown 90 149322 867849 180 - internally with walls 1m wide and up to 0.75m high. degraded There is a possible entrance in the SE wall.

A grass-covered subrectangular boulder/turf building w/ rounded ends measures 5.5m NE-SW by 2.5m Very 6-21 Building Garafad internally with walls 1.5m wide and up to 0.5m high. NE-SW Unknown 90 149324 867874 181 - degraded There is a small cellular structure, 1m in diameter, in the NE end.

A grass-covered L-shaped boulder/turf building w/ rounded ends measures 7m NE-SW by 2.5m and 8m Very 6-22 Building Garafad NW-SE by 2.5m internally with walls up to 1.5m wide NE-SW Unknown 90 149318 867881 182 - degraded and up to 0.35m high. There is a small compartment 3m NE-SW by 1.5m in the S corner.

A grass-covered subrectangular boulder/turf building w/ rounded ends measures 10.5m N-S by 3m Very 6-23 Building Garafad N-S Unknown 90 149342 867901 183 - internally with walls 1m wide and up to 0.6m high. degraded There is a probable entrance in the E wall.

A grass-covered subrectangular boulder/turf building w/ rounded ends measures 10m E-W by 5m internally Very 6-24 Building Garafad - Unknown 90 149347 867890 183 - with orthostat/boulder walls up to 1m wide and up to degraded 0.45m high. There is a probable entrance in the S wall

Two grass-covered subrectangular boulder/turf buildings w/ rounded ends share a central wall. The Very 6-25 Building Garafad SE structure measures 8m NE-SW by 2m and the NW NE-SW Unknown 90 149301 867921 187 - degraded structure measures 12m NE-SW by 3m internally with walls 1m wide and up to 0.75m high.

A grass-covered stone and turf banks up to 1.5m wide comprises large boulders and orthostats built against Very 6-26 Enclosure Garafad NW-SE Unknown 90 149280 867881 - - the rock outcrop to the NE. It measures 35m NW-SE degraded by 22.5m.

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Ht Site Site Photo Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. name No. (m) The remains of a grass-covered stone/turf dyke are Very 6-27 Dyke Garafad built into boulder outcrops to the NE side of the NW-SE Unknown 90 149393 867889 - - degraded settlement. The remains of an orthostat wall under heather and ENE- Very 6-28 Dyke Garafad Unknown 90 149261 867824 - - grasses run ENE-WSW across the settlement. WSW degraded A grass-covered boulder/turf structure measures 3m NW-SE by 2m internally with walls 0.75m wide and Very 6-29 Structure Garafad NW-SE Unknown 90 149245 867861 - - 0.25m high. There is possible attached cell to the SE degraded side.

A small subrectangular structure under grass comprises double-faced orthostat/boulder walls with pillar stones forming an entrance in the NE. It ENE- Very 6-30 Structure Garafad Unknown 90 149217 867810 188 - measures 3m ENE-WSW by 2m with walls 0.5m wide WSW degraded and 0.5m high. There is a possible later pen in SW side.

A small subrectangular structure under grass comprises double-faced orthostat/boulder walls. It Very 6-31 Structure Garafad N/A Unknown 90 149197 867802 - - measures 3.5m across with walls 0.5m wide and degraded 0.25m high.

The remains of a small subrectangular structure under ENE- Very 6-32 Structure Garafad grass/heater comprise double-faced orthostat/boulder Unknown 90 149144 867812 - - WSW degraded walls. It measures 3.5m across ENE-WSW.

The remains of an orthostat wall under heather and Very 6-33 Dyke Garafad NW-SE Unknown 90 149270 867773 - - grasses run NW-SE on the W side of the settlement. degraded

A grass-covered stone/turf dyke comprises banks up 6-34 Dyke Garafad NE-SW Degraded Unknown 80 149417 867742 - - to1m wide and 0.5m high. The grass-covered remains of a boulder/orthostat wall forms a possible enclosure attached to the SE side of Very 6-35 Enclosure Garafad NE-SW Unknown 90 149289 867614 - - a dyke. It measures approximately 19m NE-SW by degraded 9m.

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Ht Site Site Photo Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. name No. (m) The mostly denuded remains of a chambered cairn comprises 5 orthostats, which probably formed part of Very 6-36 Cairn Garafad a chamber c.2m across, surrounded by a low spread N/A Prehistoric 95 149554 867577 191-3 MHG5757 degraded of stones. The orthostats measure approximately 50- 60cm long by 50cm wide. A grass-covered stone and turf dyke measures 0.8-1m Very 6-37 Dyke Garafad NW-SE Unknown 107 149600 867599 - - wide and stands up to 0.6m high. degraded A grass-covered boulder/stone dyke measures 1.2- 6-38 Dyke Garafad NE-SW Degraded Unknown 149595 867513 194 - 1.5m wide and stands 0.6-1.1m high. A grass-covered stone/turf dyke measures up to 1m Very 6-39 Dyke Garafad NW-SE Unknown 100 149639 867512 - - wide and stands up to 0.7m high. degraded A small subcircular turf/stone structure built against a Very 6-40 Shieling Garafad stone/turf dyke measures 1m in diameter with banks N/A Unknown 100 149655 867494 195 - degraded 0.5m wide and 0.5m high. A small subcircular turf/stone structure built against a Very 6-41 Shieling Garafad rock outcrop measures 2m in diameter with banks N/A Unknown 100 149664 867484 - - degraded 0.5m wide and 0.5m high. A small subcircular turf/stone structure built against a Very 6-42 Shieling Garafad rock outcrop measures 1.75m in diameter with banks N/A Unknown 100 149665 867479 - - degraded 0.5m wide and 0.5m high. A small subrectangular turf/stone structure built against a rock outcrop measures 3m NE-SW by 2m Very 6-43 Shieling Garafad NE-SW Unknown 100 149670 867470 196-7 - with banks 0.5-1m wide and 0.5m high. Possible degraded entrance in NE side. A small subcircular surf/stone structure revetted into slope to W measures 1m in diameter internally. There Very 6-44 Shieling Garafad N/A Unknown 107 149645 867437 198 - is some stonework visible in the structure, which has degraded walls 0.6m wide and up to 0.8m high. The remains of a grass-covered stone/turf wall Very 6-45 Dyke Garafad comprise banks spread 1.2-1.8m wide and up to 0.4m NE-SW Unknown 100 149663 867377 - - degraded high. The remains of a grass- and heather-covered stone Very 6-46 Dyke Garafad and orthostat dyke measures 1.2-1.8m wide and NNW-SSE Unknown 90 150096 867236 - - degraded stands up to 0.7m high.

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Ht Site Site Photo Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. name No. (m) The remains of a grass- and heather-covered stone ENE- Very 6-47 Dyke Garafad and orthostat dyke measures 1.2-1.8m and stands up Unknown 60 150083 867406 - - WSW degraded to 0.7m high. The remains of a turf/stone dyke with an area of rig Very 6-48 Dyke Garafad and furrow measures approximately 0.5m wide and NW-SE Unknown 20 149947 867794 - - degraded stand up to 0.3m high. Next to a small stream at the base of a boulder scree field is a subrectangular orthostat building w/ rounded 200- 6-49 Building Garafad corners under dense bracken. It measures 9.7m E-W E-W Degraded Unknown 23 149754 867789 MHG6495 205 by 5m over walls 0.75m wide and 0.7m high. There are 2 possible entrances in the S wall.

The grass-covered remains of a possible hut circle comprise low turf-covered banks with some possible Very 6-50 Hut circle? Garafad orthostats in the NE. It measures approximately 13m NW-SE Prehistoric? 23 149512 867874 207 - degraded NW-SE by 11m over banks spread up to 1.5m wide and 0.25m high max.

The grass-covered remains of a possible hut circle measures approximately 7.5m in diameter over banks Very 6-51 Hut circle? Garafad spread 1-1.5m wide and 0.5m high max. The inner N/A Prehistoric? 20 149453 867968 208-9 - degraded face of the structure is visible in places and it is truncated by the footpath to NE.

The remains of stone-built boat nausts are located at Staffin pier. The walls measure 0.5m wide and stand Post 210- 6-52 Boat nausts Garafad N-S Ruinous 0 149453 868109 MHG35160 up to 1m high. The nausts measure 4.5-5m long and Medieval 11 2m wide. A sheep fank comprises double-faced stone-built walls standing up to 1.3m high. It measures 20m NNW-SSE Well- Post 6-53 Sheep fank Garafad NNW-SSE 85 149320 867832 180 - by 5-10m wide, and comprises at least 4 preserved Medieval compartments.

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Illus 32: Site 6-52, boat nausts at Staffin slipway

Discussion and Recommendations The Garafad route takes the walker through a varied landscape that includes the cliff tops and shore line. The main point of interest along the route is the extensive remains of the Garafad settlement. It is a complex site and the ruins, which appear to have survived well, would warrant further study given the evidence for multiple periods of occupation. The site would be an ideal settlement for a visitor to explore given the landscape situation and easy access over the high ground, which also affords excellent scenic views in all directions. Although interpretation of individual buildings was not possible, the intriguing questions posed by the archaeological remains could be presented to the visitor. A detailed plan of the layout, such as is provided in this report, could also be used on an interpretation panel or pamphlet to benefit the visitor. However, it is a Scheduled Monument and visitors should be encouraged to treat it with respect. Erosion could be a minor issue here; although, given the well-bonded condition of the orthostat and turf walls, the creation of desire paths over buildings should not compromise their structural integrity. Vegetation growth would obscure some of the structures if allowed to grow; although at present sheep are grazing the area. Similarly, the denuded chambered cairn, although visible and very easily accessed, lacks interpretation and is most likely not recognised or understood by many visitors.

The dykes and shielings on the cliff top are examples of the area’s post-medieval agricultural practices, but do not warrant interpretation or directing visitors to them. The shielings are a short distance away from the path, but are not easily visible. They are located at the base of a rocky outcrop, are in a degraded state and partially obscured by vegetation.

The sub-rectangular structure at the base of Sgeir Bhan is also worthy of highlighting to visitors, although signage would be required as it is not visible from the path as it blends in well with its background. However, the boulder field is a short, flat walk from the path and only a short climb is needed. The main problem posed at present to the visitor is the dense covering of bracken, which would have to be addressed if it was to become a visited site.

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The bracken would have to be removed from the structure and a management programme put in place to prevent its re-growth. As with Garafad, interpretation of the function and date of the structure would prove difficult without recourse to excavation. However, it is an intriguing, solitary archaeological site located in a well-defended position by the bay, in close proximity to two possible prehistoric sites. The possible hut circles are also of interest in terms of how they fit into the archaeological landscape. However, there would be no visitor appeal to these very low, turf-covered banks with the occasional stone showing.

The boat nausts are also interesting and could easily be interpreted through archival research and oral history. The slipway is a natural stopping point on the walk and an ideal interpretation panel location.

Conclusion This walk has a range of interesting sites along its route, although interpreting several of them meaningfully will be difficult. Further study of the settlement at Garafad would be highly recommended, and the location would be ideal for a community archaeological project. The landscape of Skye has much to offer in terms of under-studied multi-period occupation sites, and Garafad is a prime example. The only way to unravel such a landscape is by targeted excavation, and Skye is long overdue for such a project; one which would feed into Scottish archaeological research objectives.

Footpath 07 Garafad – Staffin Bay The proposed Garafad-Staffin Bay footpath (Illus 33) is a circular route that follows the unclassified road on the west side of the modern houses at Garafad and returns along the east bank of the Stenscholl River. A small cluster of sites at the northern end of the walk are of archaeological interest.

Historical Maps First Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire (Isle of Skye), Sheet VII Survey date: 1875 Publication date: 1879 This map shows a line of houses and field systems to the west of a track at Garafad. At the northern end of this line of houses is a dyke, which runs on a northeast-southwest alignment. To the north of the wall are two unroofed structures.

Second Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire – Isle of Skye Sheet VII Publication date: 1903 Date revised: 1901 The second edition remains virtually unchanged. There is the addition of a roofed structure to the northwest of the two unroofed structures.

Aerial Images The two unroofed structures depicted on the historical mapping are clearly visible on the aerial imagery along with stretches of possible dykes, the possible footings of a rectangular structure and rig and furrow.

Highland Historic Environment Record The following sites were noted in the vicinity: - 65 - Archaeological Feasibilty Study Report: Staffin Community Trust New Pathways 2014-28/SCT14

MHG6498 NG 4874 6825 Carn Ban, Dun or Kerb Cairn In 1928, RCAHMS described Carn Ban as the remains as: A large circular cairn measuring 52ft in diameter. Almost levelled to the ground, the circumference is outlined by a kerb or large stones set on edge. When the OS visited in 1961, they added that the kerb can be traced from the northwest side through the east to the south side, and a single stone remains on the southwest side. On the west-northwest of the cairn two large stones at right angles to the peristalith (? portal stones), suggest the cairn may originally have been chambered. It is in poor condition, nowhere more than 1.0m in height and is surrounded by a number of ruined houses. In 1988, Roger Miket visited and changed the interpretation. He stated that it is not a chambered cairn, but the remains of a dun (or possibly a ), mutilated and robbed for later settlement. The outer and inner faces of a wall vary between 3 - 3.5m in thickness, with an internal diameter of between 10 - 11m. The entrance passage (0.7m in width) lies at the northwest. A circular structure some 2m in diameter and with a wall thickness of 0.8m sits in the northern quadrant of the interior, and is probably of a later date. Similarly hollows within the interior seem to be of a later date to the defensive works. Later rectangular buildings to the E, W and N and stone dykes, have probably absorbed some of the original fabric.

MHG35899 NG 4877 6840 An Corran The following sites were recorded between January and September 1999 as part of the Scotland's First Settlers Project. NG 4885 6851 An Corran B Lithic scatter. NG 4877 6840 An Corran C Lithic scatter. NG 4864 6836 An Corran D Lithic scatter.

MHG6497 NG 4911 6849 An Corran Immediately south of An Corran and on a ledge to the west of the road leading to Staffin slipway is a shell-midden identified, also containing burnt bone. A flint point and a chert flake were picked from the surface (Miket 1988). A salvage investigation took place during December 1993/January 1994 of a ledge at the base of east-facing cliffs in advance of rock-blasting for road works. Disturbed upper levels contained the remains of numerous hearths and fires but the only datable finds were a mid-19th-century glass bottle and a bronze pin of Early Iron Age type.

The underlying shell midden contained a very important Mesolithic assemblage of bone and lithic tools, as well as abundant faunal remains. A radiocarbon determination of 7590 +/- 90 BP (OxA-4994) has been obtained on one of the bevel-ended tools, made on a red deer bone. The lithic industry, using locally available silicious and basaltic materials, included the manufacture of microliths by microburin technique. About one-fifth of the rock- shelter deposits were examined, but the ledge itself has been preserved despite removal of the cliff.

Recent analysis of the fieldwork findings has been reported on by Alan Saville et al in the Scottish Archaeological Internet Reports (SAIR).

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Walkover Survey

The walkover survey recorded seven archaeological sites (Illus 33), which relate to the prehistoric period through to post-medieval settlement and agriculture. The Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites (Table 5) provides detailed information of the sites identified in the vicinity of this proposed route.

All of the sites recorded along or near this route are clustered at its northern end. The two unroofed structures depicted on the historical mapping and visible on aerial imagery were recorded (sites 7-3 and 7-4 (Illus 34)). Both are stone and turf sub-rectangular buildings with walls that stand between 0.5m and 1m in height. They would have been occupied prior to 1875, at which time they are already shown as disused. The structures are easily visible along the edge of the footpath, although clumps of rushes partially obscure them in places. The two dykes (sites 7-5 and 7-7) to the north and west of site 7-4 are not depicted on the historical mapping, but can be picked out on the aerial imagery. They were found to be in a degraded state. To the north of these sites are the degraded remains of Carn Ban cairn (site 7-6). It is a grass-covered mound up to 2m high with a possible alignment of upright boulders on its west side, with boulders scattered across the site. It would appear to have been severely robbed out and it is likely its stone went into the construction of the nearby houses and walls. There were no significantly identifiable features within the cairn mound.

Towards the shore, to the northwest of the above structures, two further sites were recorded: the remains of grass-covered turf and stone banks forming a sub-circular structure situated on the raised beach (site 7-1; Illus 35). The function of this structure is unknown, although its location is intriguing, situated on the raised beach, the site of many Mesolithic flint scatters. Nearby, a grass-covered, sub-circular spread of stones formed a low mound near the mouth of the River Stenscholl (site 7-2). Again, it was impossible to interpret although the concentration of stones with a central dip suggested it was the remains of a structure, possibly a cairn.

The route along the east bank of the River Stenscholl provided very difficult survey conditions. The proposed path ran through fallow fields, which were full of dense vegetation, shoulder high in places, which obscured the ground and any potential archaeological sites.

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Illus 33: Location of the Garafad-Staffin Bay footpath and the archaeological sites

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Illus 34: Site 7-4, an abandoned house partially obscured by rushes

Illus 35: Site 7-1, stone/turf banks forming a subcircular structure on the raised beach

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Table 5: Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for the Garafad-Staffin Bay footpath

Ht Site Site Site Photo HHER Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing No. type name No. No. (m) The remains of a grass-covered turf/stone subcircular An structure measures 6m N-S by 4m internally with banks up Very 7-1 Structure N-S Unknown 10 148604 868332 213-5 - Corran to 1m wide and standing up to 0.25m high. It is situated on degraded the raised beach at An Corran.

A grass-covered subcircular spread of stones may be the very degraded remains of a structure forming a low mound An Very 7-2 Cairn? next to the shoreline and mouth of the Stenscholl River. N/A Unknown 5 148540 868289 217-9 - Corran degraded There is a large slab visible within the stones, which measures @ 10m in diameter.

A grass- and turf-covered stone/turf subrectangular building measures 10.5m NNE-SSW by 3m internally. The Carn 7-3 Building boulders/stone walls are double-faced w/ rounded corners NNE-SSW Degraded Unknown 40 148789 868250 221 - Ban and measure 1m wide, up to 0.5m high. Possible internal partition and entrance in E wall.

A grass- and turf-covered stone/turf subrectangular building measures 11m NNW-SSE by 2.5m internally. The Carn 220, 7-4 Building boulder/stone walls are double-faced w/ rounded corners NNW-SSE Degraded Unknown 40 148754 868231 - Ban 225 and measure 0.75m wide, 1m high max. Remains of orthostat porch or pen on NE corner.

Carn The low remains of a grass-covered boulder/orthostat wall Very 7-5 Dyke E-W Unknown 40 148760 868238 - - Ban are attached to the NE and NW sides of building 7-4. degraded

A grass- and turf-covered mound with some stones visible comprises the remains of Carn Ban. A possible alignment Carn Very 7-6 Cairn of upright boulders is visible on the W side with boulders E-W Prehistoric? 40 148754 868253 222-4 MHG6498 Ban degraded scattered across the site. It measures 14m E-W by 9m and up to 2m high. Carn The remains of a grass-covered wall with orthostat faces Very 7-7 Dyke NW-SE Unknown 40 148702 868253 - - Ban and turf core measures 0.8m wide and 0.5m wide. degraded

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Discussion and Recommendations

This is a short, easy walk with some points of archaeological interest along the way. All of the sites are visible and easily accessed from the proposed route. The most recognisable sites for visitors are Carn Ban and the ruins of the stone-built houses. Carn Ban, the probable prehistoric cairn, sits prominently overlooking the beach at Staffin and could be easily sign-posted or way-marked. However, there was little in the way of visible features within the mound and, thus, it is recommended that interpretation of the cairn should be relatively broad. The description could include the general site-types into which Carn Ban might fall, such as a round cairn or a Hebridean chambered cairn. There may also be local folklore about the site or further information to be found in previous cairn surveys, such as Audrey Henshall’s The Chambered Tombs of Scotland.

The houses (7-3 and 7-4), which are just opposite Carn Ban, are fairly visible sites, particularly if part of the surrounding vegetation is cleared. It is difficult to pinpoint when the houses were built, as they had gone out of use and were unroofed by the time of the first Ordnance Survey in 1875 and so must pre-date this time. It may be possible to ascertain when they went out of use through researching census records; such research would provide interesting material for interpretation purposes. The dykes, while forming part of the landscape and its history, probably hold little appeal for visitors, particularly as they are much degraded.

Although the previously reported Mesolithic remains at An Corran are not accessible or visible, consideration should be given to highlighting their existence through interpretation material, particularly the background of the discovery of the sites, the Scotland’s First Settlers project and the continued recovery of lithics from the shoreline. The recent publication by Saville et al could assist with this, as could material from Steven Birch. The small stone/turf structure (7-1) and the possible cairn (7-2) are more difficult for the casual observer to recognise as being significant features in the landscape. These would require to be interpreted in some way to be appreciated fully. Definitive interpretation would, however, be difficult as their date and function is unclear. Such issues can only be resolved through excavation of the features.

Vegetation growth is a minor issue around the abandoned stone houses. The rushes obscure the walls in places and, if the walls deteriorate further, they could become completely obscured. Consideration should be given to whether a management policy is required for the future. Otherwise, the sites appeared to be reasonably stable, but erosion by visitors could become an issue on Carn Ban and the possible cairn and stone spread, which is also subject to erosion by coastal storms.

The proposed path at present appears to be routed over or very close to Carn Ban. It is recommended that the footpath should be routed at least ten metres away from the cairn so that it is not compromised during construction of the path.

Visitors may choose to park at Staffin Bay to access this footpath and the Garafad route. The surveyors noted that parking is at a premium in this area. The lack of available parking for the number of visitors was causing severe difficulties on the day of survey and many parked in inappropriate places. Consideration should be given to improving parking areas.

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Conclusion

This is a short, easy walk with a small number of archaeological sites that would be accessible to walkers of all abilities. The combination of prehistory and post-medieval remains within a short distance offers a chance to quickly visit some of the archaeological sites in the area. Unfortunately, due to the condition of the monuments and the difficulty presented in their interpretation, they would unlikely be of much interest to the average visitor. However, the steady amount of visitors to the beach does indicate that the parking area would be an ideal location to provide information about the prehistoric sites, particularly Mesolithic, discovered in Staffin.

At present, the section of the footpath that runs along the Stenscholl River is covered in dense vegetation, which will be problematic in cutting back and maintaining. If, however, it could be adequately cleared with fence-crossing stiles erected, it would form a pleasant walk from the old bridge and the Columba Centre to Staffin Beach, where the archaeological remains are located.

Footpath 08 Brogaig – Loch Sheanta

The proposed Brogaig-Loch Sheanta footpath (Illus 37) is a linear route that takes the walker along the River Brogaig to the shore and then uphill east of Digg to the main road (A855). There is an optional spur to view Loch Sheant. The route passes a number of archaeological sites, the most interesting of which are at the northern end of the path.

Historical Maps First Edition 25-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness Skye Sheet VII.4 (Kilmuir) Survey date: 1875 Publication date: 1878 First Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire (Isle of Skye), Sheet IV & IVA Survey date: 1875-77 Publication date: 1878 To the east of what is now Digg, field systems running from the now main road towards the shore are depicted along with their associated dykes. Dykes are shown to the south of Loch Sheanta.

Second Edition 25-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire – Isle of Skye, Sheet 007.04 Publication date: 1903 Revised: ca. 1901 Second Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire - Isle of Skye Sheet IV & IVA Publication date: 1904 Date revised: 1901 There is little change to the landscape at the time of the 2nd edition. A roofed building has appeared to the east of Dig, near the slipway.

Aerial Images The aerial imagery clearly shows the remains of the field system depicted on the historical mapping. In addition, the ephemeral remains of possible structures can be seen in some of the fields. To the south-southwest of Loch Sheanta the remains of structures, boundaries and rig and furrow can be seen. - 72 - Archaeological Feasibilty Study Report: Staffin Community Trust New Pathways 2014-28/SCT14

Highland Historic Environment Record

The following sites were noted in the vicinity: MHG35900 NG 4730 6871 Brogaig, lithic scatter The following site was recorded between January and September 1999 as part of the Scotland's First Settlers Project: NG47306871 Brogaig Lithic scatter, with visible midden

MHG5755 NG 4710 6990 Loch Siant, well The most celebrated well in Skye is Loch Siant well. There is a little freshwater lake within ten yards of the well (M Martin). The Statistical Account (OSA 1792) describes the well as a bath made of stone. The offerings of small rags, pins, coloured threads etc. were left on a shelf made for the purpose in a wall of a contiguous enclosure. The water is apparently without mineral content and the Loch is known variously as Siant, Sheant and Sianta. When the OS visited in 1961, Loch Siant Well was pointed out to them by two local crofters who stated that it is known as a wishing well with a strong spring issuing from beneath a bank below the outlet from Loch Siant that is enclosed by stones, one of which has a round hole through it. Later survey recorded that the enclosure no longer exists.

Walkover Survey

The walkover survey recorded eleven archaeological sites (Illus 36), most of which are of unknown age. The Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites (Table 6) provides detailed information of the sites identified in the vicinity of this proposed route.

The route takes the walker down towards the shore at Staffin Bay along the west bank of the River Brogaig. A structure (site 8-1; Illus 37) and a dyke (8-2) were recorded along this stretch of the route. Both are grass-covered and in a very degraded state. On leaving the shore and heading uphill to the east of Digg a number of sites were recorded. The majority were banks and dykes (sites 8-4-8-7); all were grass-covered and in a very degraded state. They correspond with the dykes depicted on the historical mapping and can be seen clearly on the aerial imagery. Site 8-3 was a large stone cairn built against a stone dyke, which was interpreted as clearance material from the surrounding fields. There were extensive spreads of field clearance around the break of slope.

Following the spur of path to Loch Sheanta, a further stretch of much degraded dyke was recorded (site 8-8). This is again depicted on the historical mapping and visible on the aerial imagery. Returning along the remainder of the route, a building, structure and enclosure were recorded. The building (site 8-9; Illus 38) consisted of the very degraded remains of a large rectangular structure with two subcircular cells attached to its northwest end. The second building (site 8-10) was not identifiable due to it being under dense bracken. It appeared to be sub-rectangular in shape. The low remains of a bank (site 8-11) attached to site 8-9 was interpreted as the remains of an enclosure. Whilst the structures and enclosure wall are clearly visible on the aerial imagery they are not depicted on the historical mapping. This suggests that they were earlier settlement structures that had gone out of use and were in a degraded condition at the time of the 1875 OS survey.

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Illus 36: Location of the proposed Brogaig-Loch Sheanta footpath and archaeological sites

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Table 6: Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for the proposed Brogaig-Loch Sheanta

Ht Site Site Photo HHER Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing No. name No. No. (m)

A grass-covered sunken subrectangular structure comprises Very 8-1 Structure Digg banks 0.3-0.5m wide and up to 0.3m high. It measures 6.3m NE-SW Unknown 17 147505 868472 229 - degraded NE-SW by 3.1m over walls. Possible shieling.

The remains of a grass-covered stone and turf bank Very 8-2 Dyke Digg N-S Unknown 17 147457 868368 - - measures 0.6-0.7m wide and stands up to 0.4m high. degraded

A stone clearance cairn built against a stone dyke measures Clearance 8-3 Digg 6.5m in diameter and stands 1.5m high. There are extensive N/A Degraded Unknown 60 147092 868973 - - cairn spreads of field clearance stone around the break of slope.

Post 8-4 Dyke Digg A stone-built dyke runs E-W across the cultivated fields. E-W Degraded 60 147094 868976 - - Medieval

A fragment of a grass-covered stone and turf bank comprises Very 8-5 Bank Digg a bank spread up to 2m wide and up to 0.5m high. It probably NE-SW Unknown 60 147133 868993 - - degraded formed part of an early dyke or enclosure.

A stone-built head dyke runs N-S along the eastern edge of Post 8-6 Head dyke Digg N-S Degraded 60 147170 869150 - - the cultivated fields. Medieval The very low remains of a grass-covered stone / turf dyke Very Post 8-7 Dyke Digg runs along the base of slope, enclosing an area of rig and N/A 40 147112 869496 - - degraded Medieval furrow aligned NE-SW

The low remains of a grass-covered stone/turf dyke comprise Very 8-8 Dyke Digg E-W Unknown 60 147190 869810 - - banks spread up to 1m wide and standing up to 0.4m high. degraded

The very degraded remains of grass-covered boulder/turf banks form a subrectangular structure measuring 11m NW- 236, Very 8-9 Building Digg SE by 2m internally with banks 0.8m wide and 0.5-0.8m high. NW-SE Unknown 55 147066 869682 238- - degraded There are two 4.5m wide subcircular cells attached to the NW 241 end.

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Ht Site Site Photo HHER Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing No. name No. No. (m)

A second building under dense bracken was not identifiable. Very 8-10 Structure Digg It appears to be a turf/stone subrectangular structure NW-SE Unknown 55 147036 869699 - - degraded measuring approximately 7.5m NW-SE by 3m.

The low remains of a grass-covered stone/turf bank attached Very 8-11 Enclosure Digg NE-SW Unknown 55 147049 869687 - - to building 8-9 appear to be the remains of an enclosure. degraded

Illus 37: Site 8-1, degraded structure, possibly a shieling

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Illus 38: Site 8-9, the remains of a large, multi-cell degraded building

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Discussion and Recommendations

This is a pleasant walk through varied terrain, which affords the walker excellent views over Staffin Bay. After a flat start, the route climbs steeply for some distance and then descends before levelling again on the way to Loch Sheanta. All of the archaeological sites are easily visible and accessible from the proposed path. Despite this, only the structures recorded towards the end of the route, to the south-southwest of Loch Sheanta, appeared to the surveyors to have visitor appeal. They are, however, in a much degraded state and one is totally obscured by dense bracken at present. This vegetation would require to be cleared to make it visible. Further information about the date and function of the buildings (8-9 and 8- 10), which were out of use by 1875. may be gleaned from local research and knowledge. The location is a pleasant stopping point before the climb up to the main road and the views across Staffin Bay are excellent, the site would be worth highlighting to visitors, particularly given the fact that other footpath signs are already in place along the way.

Given the structures’ degraded state, erosion of the buildings could become an issue if a lot of people walk over them. The integrity of the stonework could be compromised on these already degraded sites.

Conclusion

This is a pleasant walk affording excellent views over Staffin Bay with easily accessible archaeological sites (8-9, 8-10) at the end of the route. However, the structures are not easily visible to the casual observer due to the dense vegetation, while interpretation of the site is unclear – although local knowledge may benefit the interpretation. Intriguingly, though, the site seems to bear some of the characteristics of the ruins at Garafad, in terms of its construction. Perhaps a link might be made one day between these settlements on opposite sides of Staffin Bay.

Within the landscape around the proposed footpath, there are other significant archaeological sites of interest, including a shipwreck site, a possible fish trap and the remains of a diatomite works between the shoreline at Digg and Dun Mor. These included a slipway and boat shelters and the remains of a monorail which ran between the shore and the works. These sites were not surveyed during the present study, but would certainly be of significant interest for inclusion in the interpretation and consideration when routing the footpath.

Finally, the fort sites at Dun Vallerain (Highland HER (HHER) No. MHG5754) and Dun Beag (HHER No. MHG6499) and the possible dun at Dun Mor (HHER No. MHG6680) might also be worthy of inclusion in the interpretation about the wider archaeological landscape.

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Footpath 09 Staffin Bay

A proposed route for the Staffin Bay footpath was not provided by SCT. A route along the shore from Quiraing Lodge to the River Brogaig was walked. It has a small number of sites of archaeological interest.

Historical Maps First Edition 25-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness Skye Sheet VII.4 (Kilmuir) Survey date: 1875 Publication date: 1878 To the northeast of Staffin House, a roofed building is shown above the high water mark. Between Staffin House and the River Brogaig is a field system of dykes, together with two unroofed structures above the shore line.

Second Edition 25-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire – Isle of Skye, Sheet 007.04 Publication date: 1903 Revised: ca. 1901 The roofed building northeast of Staffin House is now shown as unroofed. There are no other changes.

Aerial Images The aerial imagery clearly shows the remains of the field system and structures depicted on the historical mapping.

Highland Historic Environment Record There were no sites noted in the vicinity of the proposed footpath.

Walkover Survey

The walkover survey recorded six archaeological sites (Illus 39), most of which relate to the post-medieval period. The Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites (Table 7) provides detailed information of the sites identified in the vicinity of this proposed route.

This is a flat walk that follows the shore around Staffin Bay from the Quiraing Lodge to the River Brogaig where it would link in to Footpath 08. To the northeast of the Lodge are the remains of a small rectangular building (site 9-1; Illus 40). Moving along the shore a second building was noted (site 9-2; Illus 41) with an enclosure (site 9-3) on its south side and a stretch of dyke (site 9-4) on its west side. Further to the west part of another dyke (site 9-5) was recorded. The final site on this route was site 9-6, the remains of a stone-built structure with an enclosure on its northwest side. All of these sites are shown on the historical mapping with the exception of the enclosure 9-3. It was in a much more degraded state than the building it was attached to suggesting that it may have been an earlier structure.

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Illus 39:

Location of the archaeological sites at Staffin Bay

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Table 7: Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites between Quiraing Lodge and the River Brogaig

Ht Site Site Photo HHER Site type Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing No. name No. No. (m)

A grass-covered stone/turf building measures 6.5m WNW- ESE by 3m internally with walls 0.85m wide and standing WNW- Post 243- 9-1 Building Stenscholl Degraded 5 148441 868327 - 0.5-0.6m high. There is an entrance in the NE wall and ESE Medieval 244 rounded internal corners.

A grass-covered stone/turf subrectangular building with double-faced stone/boulder walls and cobble/turf core ENE- Post 9-2 Building Stenscholl Degraded 10 148162 868258 245 - measures 12.5m ENE-WSW by 3m internally. Walls WSW Medieval measure 1m wide and stand 0.5-1.5m high.

A grass-covered rubble-built wall attached to the south side Very Post 9-3 Enclosure Stenscholl of building 9-2 forms the remains of an enclosure E-W 18 148176 868246 - - degraded Medieval measures 20m E-W by 17m max.

The low remains of a turf / grass-covered bank is spread Very 9-4 Dyke Stenscholl up to 1m wide and stands up to 0.35m high. It runs below N-S Unknown 10 148155 868243 - - degraded building 9-2 and therefore predates it.

The low remains of a turf/grass-covered stone dyke runs Very Post 9-5 Dyke Stenscholl N-S 10 148050 868267 - - from the shoreline. degraded Medieval

The grass/turf-covered remains of a stone-built subrectangular structure measures 11.3m NE-SW by 5.5m Post 9-6 Building Stenscholl NE-SW Degraded 10 147721 868364 - - over walls 0.75m wide. There is an enclosure 9.8m NE-SW Medieval by 5.5m attached to the NW side of the building.

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Illus 40: Site 9-1, a small building to the northeast of Quiraing Lodge

Illus 41: Site 9-2, a rectangular, stone-built structure with enclosure attached

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Discussion and Recommendations

As this was a late addition to the list of routes to be surveyed, the exact route that is proposed was not known by the surveyors. Although the shoreline walk is flat, with stunning coastal views, the surveyors noted difficulty in walking caused by loose stone on the shore; whereas to walk along the fields entailed climbing several fences and due consideration should be given to the routing.

The archaeological sites are visible in the landscape, but, if walking along the shore, are not easily accessible. The structures, particularly Sites 9-1, 9-2 and 9-6, have visitor appeal and it would, perhaps, be possible to glean some information about the buildings from census records to aid interpretation. This would certainly be possible for the roofed building (site 9- 1) to the northeast of Quiraing Lodge. The dykes have minimal appeal for visitors.

Site 9-1 is partially obscured by vegetation, which only slightly impairs its visibility. Consideration should be given to vegetation management by grazing or other means. Erosion by visitors is unlikely to be a problem on this route.

Conclusion

This is a short walk with a small number of archaeological sites of interest. However, the coastal scenery is enjoyable with fascinating geology along the beach. It would link in well with the Digg footpath 08.

Footpath 10 Storr

The proposed Storr footpath (Illus 42) follows an existing and popular route from the A855 to the Old Man of Storr.

Historical Maps First Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire (Isle of Skye), Sheet XVIII Survey date: 1875 Publication date: 1878 There is nothing to note on this map in the vicinity of the footpath.

Second Edition 6-inch-to-the-mile Ordnance Survey map Inverness-shire – Isle of Skye Sheet XVIII Publication date: 1903 Revised: 1901 There is nothing to note on this map in the vicinity of the footpath

Aerial Images The aerial imagery shows possible structures to the west of the path about half way along the route.

Highland Historic Environment Record The following sites were noted in the vicinity:

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MHG17890 NG 5045 5338 Old Man of Storr, shieling and dun As per a survey by Martin Wildgoose, ‘on the summit of a very prominent rocky knoll are the degraded remains of a small fortified structure or dun. Short lengths of walling survive on the east and south sides of the summit: in one instance standing to 1.5m in height. A well-made ramp spirals up the north and east sides of the knoll and enters the dun through a deeply cut hollow, probably the remains of the original entrance. Lying at the foot of the knoll on its west side and within a few meters of the dun are the degraded remains of a stone built single cell shieling. The cell which is rectangular in plan lies on an east-west alignment and measures 3m by 2m over boulder walls, 0.5m thick. An entrance lies in the centre of the south facing side.’

MHG16130 NG 5050 5338 Old Man of Storr, structure As per a survey by Martin Wildgoose, ‘lying just within the trees at the foot of the east side of the knoll are the much degraded remains of a boat-shaped structure measuring 5m long by 2.5m wide. The walls are constructed of boulders and small stones. No entrance is visible. ‘

Walkover Survey

The walkover survey recorded five archaeological sites of unknown date (Illus 42). The Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites (Table 8) provides detailed information of the sites identified in the vicinity of this proposed route.

To the east of the route, about a quarter of the way along the path, a possible structure (site 10-1; Illus 43) was noted. It was interpreted as a possible shieling built into a mound; however, identification was hindered by the tree brash from recent felling operations. Further along the path, clustered on and around a knoll, another three structures were recorded (sites 10-2-10-4). Site 10-2 was a structure formed by grass- and moss-covered banks extending along the edge of terrace. It was not able to be formally identified due to the tree brash from felling but it may well be the shieling previously recorded (MHG16130). Site 10-3 (Illus 44) appeared as stone and turf banks built into the base of the knoll. Again brash from recent tree felling hindered interpretation. Site 10-4 was also interpreted as a very degraded possible shieling. The possible dun site was not identified due to tree brash hindrance. However, the presence of such a site does suggest that Sites 10-1-10-3 might form part of a prehistoric landscape, unless they are remains of a post-medieval pastoral economy.

The final site was recorded to the southwest of the Old Man of Storr. This comprised a length of boulder and stone wall (site 10-5; Illus 45).

None of the sites identified are depicted on the historical mapping.

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Illus 42: Location of the proposed Storr footpath and archaeological sites

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Illus 43: Site 10-1, a possible turf/stone structure attached to the base of a knoll

Illus 44: Site 10-3, a possible structure at the base of the knoll

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Illus 45:

Site 10-5, a stretch of wall to the southwest of the Old Man of Storr

Discussion and Recommendations

This is a well-known and well-used route. On the day of survey, despite the inclement weather, there was a steady stream of people walking up to the Old Man of Storr. Parking was a major problem; the existing car park is not sufficient for the number of people using the footpath and the spaces along the road were filled by buses.

Given the terrain it is not surprising that only a small number of archaeological sites were recorded. None of the sites are visible from the route, with the exception of the wall (site 10- 5). This in itself is not of sufficient interest to encourage visitors to leave the path. The remainder of the sites identified are inconclusive in their interpretation and are not easily recognisable as structures to the casual observer. In addition, most were partially covered with brash from the recent tree felling operation further hindering their accessibility.

It was noted that the existing footpath is augmented by a network of desire paths around the Old Man of Storr and the Needle, all of which are becoming heavily eroded. This is due to weather erosion exacerbated by heavy footfall. If visitors were encouraged to visit the archaeological sites identified, erosion would quickly become an issue compromising their already degraded state.

It is not recommended that visitors should be encouraged to visit the archaeological sites. Reference to their existence could be made in interpretation material.

Conclusion

Although already a popular pathway, it is not recommended that visitors are encouraged to leave the path to visit the archaeological sites identified.

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Table 8: Gazetteer of Archaeological Sites for the Storr footpath

Ht Site Site Site Photo Description Alignment Condition Period OD Easting Northing HHER No. No. type name No. (m)

The grass-covered remains of a possible shieling built into a mound comprise turf/stone banks measuring 7m N-S by 3m Very 252- 10-1 Structure Storr N-S Unknown 210 150877 853189 - over banks 0.5m wide and 0.2m high. Difficult to interpret degraded 253 due to tree brash from recent felling.

Grass- and moss-covered banks standing up to 1m high are built into the SE side of a knoll on a narrow terrace. It Very 10-2 Structure Storr appears to form the remains of a structure approximately NE-SW Unknown 275 150530 853319 - - degraded 20m long NE-SW, although coverage by tree brash prohibited interpretation.

A moss- and grass-covered stone/turf structure is built into the SE base of a knoll. It comprises banks 0.6-1m high and Very 255- 10-3 Structure Storr measures 4m E-W by 2m internally. Due to tree brash and E-W Unknown 280 150476 853333 MHG16130 degraded 256 disturbance, it was difficult to identify and may extend further to the NE.

A moss-covered stone/boulder structure is built into the base of an outcrop. It comprises walls 0.5m high and measures Very 10-4 Structure Storr E-W Unknown 295 150446 853338 - - 7m E-W by 2m over walls. This is probably a very degraded degraded shieling.

A length of boulder/stone wall forms part of dyke running Very 10-5 Wall Storr NW-SE Unknown 440 150032 853739 257 - between outcrops. It measures 0.5m high and 0.5m wide. degraded

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Archaeological Study: Conclusion and Recommendations

The archaeological study of the network of proposed new footpaths for Ceumannan provided an opportunity to record baseline data of archaeological sites around the path locations. Even in the event that all of the information provided is not used for the present project, it can be stored and used for future research. Information provided with this report includes GIS files containing site data, digital photographs of the sites, video compilations of images of the sites and plans showing site location and layout.

The archaeological landscape around Staffin is remarkable, both in terms of the scenery and the layering of archaeological and historical periods. Unfortunately, a lot of the sites recorded as part of this project are not well-preserved, highly visible monuments that the average visitor can experience, nor is the interpretation of many of the sites clear. However, presentation of information can be made in various ways which can appeal to visitors.

Recommendations for the individual footpaths have been made in each section of the report. The following presents additional and general recommendations and observations for the project as a whole:

• At footpath 02, Lealt Gorge, there is further scope for interpretation of the ruins of the diatomite factory and fishing station ruins. The present panel at the parking area is excellent and relates to both footpaths 02 and 04. However, a further panel, possibly sited overlooking Inver Tote, could provide additional information about the sites and include plans showing the individual sites. Further documentary research may bring to light more information and perhaps enable a re-drawn plan or illustration of what the sites once looked like (aided by early accounts and historical mapping). A detailed description of the diatomite factory buildings and the processes involved could also be including alongside any oral history relating to the works. Further information could also be sought about the fishing industry, which would also be useful material for Port Earlish.

• The ruins of the post-medieval settlement at Lealt are well-preserved and worth highlighting. Although these sites were not surveyed, they would provide an ideal location for community training sessions where volunteers could learn survey techniques and record the settlement on plan at the same time. The data gathered could be used for interpretation materials. Documentary research could follow on from this, again by local volunteers, providing the opportunity to perhaps learn more about not just the settlement at Lealt, but also those at inter alia Garafad, Lonfearn and Port Earlish. A stone plaque on the house at Port Earlish naming a former occupant suggests there is some existing research or local knowledge that could be expanded upon.

• Although the settlement at Lonfearn was surveyed, there were areas that were not covered in the surrounding environs. Further survey would be recommended to provide a complete record of the area.

• At footpath 08, in the surrounding landscape are the remains of a second diatomite works site at Staffin. The footpath location could be re-routed or expanded to bring in these sites and further survey is recommended to include coverage of them. There is

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local information available about the works, which could easily be included in the interpretation and feed into interpretation on the diatomite works at Inver Tote.

• Detailed site plans could be prepared for the settlements and could be drawn in various ways for use in interpretation. Different phases of occupation or different sites types could be shaded or highlighted in different colours.

• Interpretation should be a consideration for all the proposed footpaths, whether this is done using simple way-markers, interpretation panels, published leaflets or digital media, such as an App or a dedicated Staffin footpaths website with an option to download and print maps etc. Whilst some of the archaeological sites recorded are visible to the trained eye, the average visitor may struggle to identify them without assistance. The provision of plans can go a long way in assisting walkers and visitors to understand the archaeological landscape.

• Printed leaflets could provide a way to present detailed documentary information on certain sites – such as An Corran and Staffin beach, the sites at Dun Hasan and the quern quarry, the cairns and the local industry. Leaflets could be obtained at local businesses, eateries and accommodation venues. • Mesolithic sites are an infrequent discovery. SCT has an opportunity to educate locals and visitors alike through interpreting the sites at Staffin. This could be taken further by involving the community in a shoreline monitoring scheme around Staffin Bay and the stretch of shore to the east of the River Stenscholl. This would ensure that, as further shoreline continues, methodical recording and reporting of these important discoveries is conducted.

• Further research is recommended to provide information about the sites identified for interpretation and their place in Staffin’s archaeological and historical past. Delving into the local community’s stories as well as searching the local/regional/national archives is highly recommended.

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References

Cooper, D. 1970. Skye. 1989 ed, : Queen Anne Press.

Highland Council 2012. Standards for Archaeological Work available at http://www.highland.gov.uk/yourenvironment/conservation/archaeology/developmentguidanc e.htm

Highland Council Historic Environment Record 2014. Highland Historic Environment Record accessed at http://her/highland.gov.uk on 24 March 2014.

Institute for Archaeologists, 2008. Standards and guidance for archaeological desk-based assessment. Reading: IfA.

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