Canoeing Michigan Rivers A Comprehensive Guide To 45 Rivers

!ird Edition Revised 2013

text Jerry Dennis

original maps and photographs Craig Date

Holt, Michigan C"#$%&#' M&()&'"# R&*%+,

Ontonagon

South East Branch Branch

Fox Two Hearted Montreal Michigamme Black Presque Middle Branch Isle Escanaba Paint Indian

Whitefish Sturgeon Brule Manistique

Ford

Black Sturgeon

Ocqueoc

Jordan Thunder Pigeon Bay Platte Boardman AuSable Mainstream

Betsie Manistee

Pine AuSable South Branch Rifle Little Manistee

Pere Marquette Chippewa

Little White Muskegon Cass

Muskegon Flat

Shiawassee

Thornapple

Huron Kalamazoo

Dowagiac

vi C"#$%&#' M&()&'"# R&*%+, C!"#$"#%

Introduction To &e &ird Edition ...... ix Upper Peninsula ...... 75 Introduction To &e Second Edition ...... x Black River ...... 76 Introduction To &e First Edition ...... xi Brule River ...... 79 Preface ...... xii Escanaba River ...... 82 Michigan Natural Rivers Program ...... xiv Ford River ...... 85 Designated Michigan Natural Rivers ...... xv Fox River ...... 87 National Wild And Scenic Rivers Program ...... xv Indian River ...... 89 Manistique River ...... 91 Lower Peninsula Rivers ...... 1 Michigamme River ...... 93 Au Sable River Mainstream...... 2 Montreal River ...... 95 South Branch ...... 7 Ontonagon River East Branch ...... 98 Betsie River ...... 9 Ontonagon River Mainstream ...... 99 Black River ...... 12 Ontonagon River Middle Branch ...... 101 Boardman River ...... 14 Ontonagon River South Branch ...... 103 Cass River ...... 17 Paint River ...... 105 Chippewa River ...... 19 Presque Isle River ...... 108 Dowagiac River ...... 23 Sturgeon River ...... 111 Flat River ...... 25 Two Hearted River ...... 113 Huron River ...... 27 White.sh River ...... 115 Jordan River ...... 31 Little Manistee River ...... 35 Appendix A: &e International Scale Of River Dif- Little Muskegon River ...... 38 'culty ...... 117 Manistee River ...... 40 Appendix B: Rapids ...... 118 Muskegon River ...... 45 Appendix C: Further Information ...... 120 Ocqueoc River ...... 50 Appendix D: Canoe Liveries ...... 122 Pere Marquette River ...... 52 &e Authors ...... 128 Pigeon River ...... 55 Pine River ...... 57 Platte River ...... 59 Ri-e River ...... 61 Shiawassee River ...... 63 Sturgeon River ...... 66 !ornapple River ...... 68 !under Bay River ...... 70 White River ...... 72

vii C"#$%&#' M&()&'"# R&*%+, I"#(!)*+#,!" T! T-$ T-,() E),#,!"

early thirty years ago Craig and I set out to paddle the lengths of our favorite rivers and write a book about them. We were very young then and very ambitious and had no idea what we were getting into. We .gured we could do two rivers N every weekend and have the book wrapped up in six months. Two years later we -oated around For this, our most fully revised edi- in the 1980s – so much so that Craig a bend on the Shiawassee River, saw tion to date, Craig and I revisited every and I plan to include several of them in Craig’s red pick-up parked beside the river, drove all the roads, checked all the a future edition of this book. Northern Fergus Road Bridge, and realized that access sites, campgrounds, dams, and rivers have bene.ted as well, especially our work was done. By then we had bridges, and made note of everything from erosion controls that reduce the paddled 1,500 miles on nearly 50 rivers that has changed. Many roads that were amounts of sand and silt entering them and were a little older and maybe a little once gravel are now paved. A few bridges and reforestation that is keeping their wiser for the experience. Our relief that are gone. Campgrounds have closed. A waters shaded and cooler. More gravel the journey was over was exceeded only major dam on the Boardman River has and cooler water means more aquatic by our regret that it was over. Even then been dismantled (with more scheduled life and that of course means healthier we knew we would always look back on for removal in the near future). And we rivers. those two years as a magical time in our found a few errors in the book that had After a lifetime on the water, Craig lives. slipped past us during earlier revisions. and I are still thrilled every time we As it turned out, all the years since We were heartened to note that the push o/ into a river and feel the current have been pretty magical, in part rivers themselves have changed very lit- grab our boat and pull us toward the because we’ve never stopped going to tle. !is isn’t entirely true, of course. !e .rst bend and what we might discover the rivers. Our appreciation for them Kalamazoo endured a devastating oil beyond it. We hope that this book, the just gets stronger. !ough we’ve spent a spill that is still not completely cleaned labor of our youth and middle-age, is fair amount of time exploring rivers on up. !e Pigeon su/ered a blow when a in some small way an aid to your own several continents, we always return to private dam on the upper river released enjoyment. Michigan convinced that ours are the a surge of silt that decimated the trout (For more information about Michi- loveliest and most interesting rivers in population. !is was the second time in gan rivers, including news and updates the world. Each has an aroma, color, twenty-some years that the same dam of interest to paddlers, anglers, and composition of bed, banks, and sur- failed because of the abysmally poor anyone else who cares about rivers, go to rounding valley that adds up to a char- judgment of the owners. www.canoeingmichiganrivers.net.) acter as unique as a .ngerprint. We’re Other changes have been more convinced that we could be blindfolded positive. !anks to the e/orts of many and led to any river in Michigan and people many of the rivers in southern know exactly where we are. Michigan are cleaner than they were

ix C!"#$%"& M%'(%&!" R%)$*+ I!"#$%&'"($! T$ T)* S*'$!% E%("($!

lot of water has ,owed under the bridge since the day in February 1984 when my college friend Craig Date and I decided to try writing a book together. We had no idea how much time and work it would take, or even if it would ever A be published, but we knew it would be a great excuse to spend a lot of time on rivers. If we broke even, we -gured, we’d be ahead. We never dreamed that seventeen years later Canoeing Michigan Rivers would be considered the bible of paddling in Michigan.

.is new edition is probably a bit ment of hydro-electric dams on the Au ces are updated and a comprehensive list overdue. Over the years we’ve received Sable, Manistee, and Muskegon. Before, of canoe liveries has been added. many letters from readers, most sharing water was released in a system called Other alterations aren’t so obvious. their experiences but a few pointing “peak-,ow,” to meet power demand At the urging of many readers, I’ve “soft- out errors in our text and maps. We whenever it was needed. Fluctuations in ened” the estimated paddling times for corrected the most serious of the errors ,ow made the rivers terribly low one day most of the rivers. During our research, in each of the reprints (there have been and dangerously high the next, causing Craig and I always paddled steadily, try- ten), and felt we were keeping the book erosion and making it di/cult for many ing to be as consistent as possible from reasonably updated. Lately, though, aquatic organisms to survive. Stabilizing river to river, and ended up maintaining we realized that a major overhaul was the ,ow has increased -sh populations a pace that was faster than most people necessary. Campgrounds, bridges, dams, and cleaned the rivers. Paddling below like to go. We’ve received a few com- roads, and access sites have altered over the dams is a lot more fun now. plaints about that. We also heard about a the years, making some of our informa- Another change is an increase in U.S. group of paddlers who tried to complete tion obsolete. .e -nal nudge came from Forest Service regulations. Paddlers, a section of the Fox River in -ve hours, a critic on a web site who declared that anglers, and campers on rivers ,owing as we had, and ended up abandoning our book was “outdated but still useful” through national forests in the Lower their canoes and bushwhacking through (a phrase we fear applies to the authors Peninsula are subject to many more rules the swamp in the middle of the night. I as well). Clearly, it was time to update. than they were in 1986. In some cases— hope they’ve forgiven us. If they can give Most of the updating took place the Pine comes to mind—permits and the Fox (and our book) another chance, during several weeks in the summer and quotas have limited the number of I’m sure they’ll -nd the new paddling fall of 2000, when I poked around in all river users and have probably done some times more realistic—and the Fox a -ne the Upper Peninsula rivers and most of good. Others I’m not so sure about. river. the northern Lower Peninsula rivers de- Upper Peninsula rivers, many of which In fact, they’re all -ne. I don’t know scribed in the book. For the remainder ,ow through national forests, have so where this book or its authors will of them I turned to the telephone and far remained largely unregulated. be 17 years from now, but I’m pretty internet, and to friends around the state Readers familiar with the -rst edi- con-dent that the rivers will remain in who generously shared their knowledge tion of Canoeing Michigan Rivers good shape. .e single consistent note of the waters they know best. will notice some modi-cations. Gary in all the letters we’ve received is that Of course a lot has changed since Barfknecht has produced new maps the rivers are lovely and enchanting and the -rst edition. Among the most that are easier to read and more accurate of immeasurable value. May they ,ow signi-cant changes was legislation that than the old ones (sorry, Craig). Photos bright and clean forever. required “run-of-the-river” manage- are placed where they belong. Appendi-

x C!"#$%"& M%'(%&!" R%)$*+ I!"#$%&'"($! T$ T)* F(#+" E%("($!

his book was conceived on a February weekend on the Pine River. ,at trip—our antidote to cabin fever—began and ended so inauspiciously that it has earned an honored listing in our personal archives under “Chalk It Up to Experience.” T It began early Saturday morning in a search for Edgetts Bridge—lost on roads with names like 50 and 481⁄2, guided by a vague hand-drawn map and even vaguer local advice. It ended Sunday evening when we found our way back to that remote bridge and discovered that our vehicles had been broken into and ransacked.

During the drive home that night beyond the pages of this book. It, itself, never have begun this book if we did not we decided something had to be done. is enough reward for those two years care for rivers, and in candid moments ,ere had been too many trips marred work, but there have been so many we have been willing to admit that the by insu-cient and inaccurate informa- bonuses along the way that several more entire project was designed to give us an tion. ,ere had been too many hours volumes would be necessary to give excuse to be near them more. spent driving in circles on unfamiliar them their due. Our friends and families Even after the hundreds of hours roads, too much confusion over access and the many people we met on the a.oat, the miles of driving, the long days sites and bridge names, and too many rivers have been a continuous source of and too-short nights, the bad jokes and days spent hauling canoes over logjams pleasure and surprise. What we learned worse food, the rain, the snow, the mos- and fallen trees on rivers we would never about canoes and canoeing—especially quitoes and deer .ies, and the mornings have attempted had we been warned whitewater canoeing—has added im- when all we wanted to do was stay curled ahead of time. Obviously it was time measurably to our enthusiasm for a up in our sleeping bags—but dragged to invest in a good guide to Michigan sport we had already enjoyed for many ourselves to the canoe anyway—our ap- rivers. years. And all of those out-of-the-way preciation for the rivers has not abated. But there was no such guide. So, to corners of Michigan we stumbled into It has, in fact, grown. make a long story short, we decided we have given us a new appreciation for a If there is one thing we hope for would create one, and—two years and state we thought we knew pretty well. Canoeing Michigan Rivers it is this: about 1,500 miles of canoeing later— But the greatest bonus—and the one ,at everyone who reads it and uses you are holding the result in your hands. we will carry with us the longest—has to it will /nd his or her appreciation for For us, though, the story goes far do with the rivers themselves. We would Michigan rivers growing too.

xi C!"#$%"& M%'(%&!" R%)$*+ P!"#$%"

e have made every e,ort to compose this guidebook in a manner that will make it a useful—and enjoyable —tool. W Following are some explanations of the logic behind our terms and methods:

RIVERS START / END GRADIENT It is already apparent to us that there -is refers only to the initial put-in Gradient is the measure of a river’s are going to be some readers who will and .nal take-out of the portion of the descent and is expressed in feet per be disappointed or even angered to learn river described. mile. A 10 ft/mile gradient means that that a favorite river or section of river the river drops 10 feet for each mile of has been omitted from this book. All MILES lateral distance. We arrived at the gradi- blame or credit has to be placed squarely ent of each river by counting contour on the authors’ shoulders. All river miles given are the result lines on topographical maps. On rivers From the beginning we were deter- of our own measurements using a map where gradient varies greatly from mined to include only those rivers we measurer to trace each winding mile of section to section, we have listed the found to be particularly appealing to us. every river on U.S. Geological Survey section gradients separately; otherwise, Our standards are simple. We prefer not topographical maps. -is is the most the .gure listed is a good average for the to paddle on polluted water, or through careful measurement system we could entire river. long stretches of crowded, dirty, noisy devise and is, we believe, quite accurate. -e gradient of a river is a fairly surroundings, or in the company of Discrepancies with other sources are good gauge of its speed and di1culty, too many powerboats and water skiers. somewhat ba/ing. For instance, the although other factors such as water We looked for rivers that o,er beauty, length of the Au Sable from Grayling volume, bottom type and number of variety and challenge, and that, if not to Oscoda is variously reported as 180 obstructions also have to be considered. remotely situated, had qualities that to 240 miles. Repeated measurements Generally, a descent of 10 feet/mile will were interesting and appealing in their of 1:24,000 scale topographical maps create rapids. Anything over 15 feet/mile own right. convinced us that the actual length is is certain to have some exciting water. -at is not to say that every river we 114 miles. Perhaps what is most relevant A gradient over 20 feet/mile demands omitted is dull or tainted with industrial is that all miles listed in this book re- careful planning and preparation. waste. We have left out some .ne riv- sulted from the same method and will, therefore, be consistent from one river ers—perhaps enough for a second vol- CAMPGROUNDS ume of this book—and simply missed to the next. some others. In the end, our decisions All streamside campgrounds that were based on our own prejudices but HOURS we know of—both public and pri- resulted, we hope, in a good representa- vate—are marked on the maps or are Because paddling time varies greatly listed in the descriptions. In some cases, tion of the best moving water in Michi- according to ability, river character, gan’s two peninsulas. campgrounds in the general vicinity are water conditions and weather, we have noted, but usually only when there are included a range of times for each sec- few on the rivers themselves. COUNTIES tion of river only as a general guide. In a section listed as, say, a 3 to 5 hour trip, County names are listed at the SKILL REQUIRED beginning of each river description and 3 hours is the time it took us at a steady, appear in the order of the river’s passage. moderately fast pace while 5 hours is -is, again, is intended as a general -e .rst county listed, then, contains the the time we estimate casual paddling guide. -e numerals I, II, III and IV re- upstream or beginning reaches of the and 0oating will take. We have tried to fer to the river rating system devised by described river; the last county contains remain consistent from river to river, but the American Whitewater A1liation. the end of the river or the .nal section again, the times should be regarded as Level I, for example, is used to recom- we describe. general references only. mend the ability of paddlers to negoti- ate rapids designated as Class I in the xii C!"#$%"& M%'(%&!" R%)$*+

Presque Isle River above South Boundary Road (photo by Gail Dennis)

International Scale of River Di,culty (see Appendix A). Level I, therefore, MISCELLANEOUS MAP LEGEND could be considered beginner or novice, -is is a book for paddlers and is Symbols used on maps included level II intermediate, and level III and written from a paddler’s perspective. with individual river descriptions. higher advanced or expert. -erefore, all directions—such as right and left, up and down, and above and PAVED TOPOGRAPHICAL MAPS below—unless otherwise noted, are based on usual downstream progress. GRAVEL We have listed the quadrant names Although we have made every e/ort of maps that cover rivers we consider to ensure that the information contained WATERFALLS remote enough, fast enough, or oth- in this book is accurate, it is entirely pos- erwise challenging enough to warrant sible that we have made an occasional special attention. -ose who want maps mistake. We would be grateful to receive RAPIDS of other rivers can get an index from corrections, suggestions or comments of the U.S. Geological Survey and other any kind. Please email Jerry Dennis at POINTS OF INTEREST agencies where topos are available. -e 1 [email protected] (or visit his web- (see text) maps are also available at many canoe site at www.jerrydennis.net). Snail mail and out.tting shops. should be addressed to Jerry Dennis and Craig Date, care of -under Bay Press, CAMPGROUNDS 2325 Jarco Drive, Holt, MI 48842.

xiii C!"#$%"& M%'(%&!" R%)$*+ M!"#!$%& N%'()%* R!+,)- P).$)%/

Michigan’s Natural Rivers Act (Act 3. Free-Flowing Condition: To ,ere are three categories of Natural 231) was initiated in 1970 for the maintain existing free-.owing condi- Rivers in Michigan’s program. ,ey are purpose of protecting certain rivers tions where they presently exist for the Wilderness: A free-.owing river, from unwise development and use. ,e purpose of preserving this part of the with essentially primitive, undeveloped objectives of the program are natural environment of the river. adjacent lands. 1. General: To preserve and protect 4. Fish and Wildlife Resource: To Wild-Scenic: A river with wild, the ecologic, aesthetic and historic val- maintain, protect and enhance desirable forested borders that is near developed ues and enhance the many recreational -sh and wildlife populations and plant lands and is moderately accessible. values of the river and adjacent lands. communities. Country-Scenic: A river in an agri- 2. Water Quality: To maintain or 5. River Environment: To protect cultural setting—with pastoral borders improve water quality consistent with riverbanks, the .ood plain and other and some homes—that is readily acces- the designated classi-cation of the adjacent river areas essential to the per- sible. river and adhere to the concept of non- petuation of the total environment of degradation of water quality. the river system.

Rapids on the Upper Peninsula’s Black River (photo by Gail Dennis) xiv C!"#$%"& M%'(%&!" R%)$*+ D!"#$%&'!( M#)*#$&% N&'+,&- R#.!,"

Wilderness River: Two Hearted Wild-Scenic Rivers: Au Sable, Betsie, Boardman, Fox, Jordan, Kalamazoo, Manistee (upper), Pere Marquette, Pigeon, Pine, Ri,e Country-Scenic: Boardman*, Flat, Huron, Rogue**, White* *Some sections of the Boardman and White rivers are designated Wild-Scenic and others are designated Country-Scenic. **-e Rogue River is not included in this guide.

N&'#/%&- W#-( A%( S)!%#) R#.!," P,/$,&0

-e National Wild and Scenic Act, like the Michigan Natural Rivers Act, is intended to preserve and protect rivers with outstanding aesthetic, scenic, historic and other features. Rivers are designated as Wild, Scenic or Recreational. As of early 2001, more than 150 rivers (or portions of rivers), were included in the national program. Rivers are designated according to accessibility and are divided into the following categories: Wild—Is accessible only by trail, is undeveloped and generally unpolluted. Scenic—Is accessed by some roads but is mainly a trail-access river. Recreational —Is developed along the shoreline and is easily accessible by roads. In Michigan, the following rivers are included in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Program: Wild: Ontonagon** Scenic: Au Sable, Black (Gogebic), Indian*, Ontonagon**, Pere Marquette, Pine, Presque Isle*, Sturgeon (Delta County)* Recreational: Indian*, Ontonagon**, Paint, Presque Isle*, Sturgeon (Delta County)* Further information about the national program can be obtained on the Web at www.nps.gov/rivers

*Has portions designated both as Scenic and Recreational **Several sections of the East, Middle, Cisco, and West branches of the Ontonagon have been designated as Wild, Scenic, and Recreational.

xv C!"#$%"& M%'(%&!" R%)$*+

L!"#$ P#%&%'()* R&+#$'

CHEBOYGAN EMMET Black

Ocqueoc

Sturgeon Pigeon

PRESQUE ISLE

CHARLEVOIX

Jordan Thunder Bay

ANTRIM OTSEGO ALPENA MONTMORENCY

LEELANAU

CRAWFORD AuSable Mainstream Boardman Platte ALCONA KALKASKA OSCODA BENZIE GRAND AuSable TRAVERSE South Branch

Betsie Manistee MANISTEE WEXFORD OGEMAW IOSCO MISSAUKEE ROSCOMMON

Pine Rifle Little Manistee ARENAC

MASON OSCEOLA LAKE CLARE GLADWIN

Pere Marquette Muskegon HURON

BAY MECOSTA ISABELLA MIDLAND OCEANA NEWAYGO Chippewa TUSCOLA White Cass Little Muskegon SANILAC MUSKEGON SAGINAW MONTCALM GRATIOT Flat

Shiawassee

KENT LAPEER GENESEE OTTAWA IONIA CLINTON ST. CLAIR

SHIAWASSEE OAKLAND

Thornapple MACOMB ALLEGAN BARRY EATON INGHAM LIVINGSTON

Kalamazoo Huron

WAYNE VAN BUREN JACKSON KALAMAZOO CALHOUN WASHTENAW

BERRIEN CASS ST. JOSEPH BRANCH Dowagiac HILLSDALE LENAWEE MONROE

1 C!"#$%"& M%'(%&!" R%)$*+ A, S!-.$ R%)$* M!%"+/*$!0 COUNTIES: Crawford, Oscoda, Alcona, Iosco START/END: Grayling to Oscoda OTSEGO MONTMORENCY ALPENA

MILES: 114 ANTRIM GRADIENT: Grayling to Parmalee Bridge—5.2 ft/mile Parmalee Bridge to Oscoda—less than 3 ft/mile ALCONA

KALKASKA OSCODA PORTAGES: Six dams, fairly easy CRAWFORD RAPIDS / FALLS: None CAMPGROUNDS: Numerous ROSCOMMON OGEMAW IOSCO

MISSAUKEE L A K E H U R O N CANOE LIVERIES: Numerous (see Appendix D) SKILL REQUIRED: I

ong famous as one of the 1nest trout streams in the Midwest, the Au Sable is undoubtedly the best-known Michigan river and is deserving of its double designation as both a National Wild and Scenic River and a Wild-Scenic Michigan Natural L River. It 1rst gained the attention of sportsmen in the mid-19th century when its abundant grayling population became known. By the early 20th century, over1shing and years of bottom-scouring log drives had contributed to the extinction of the grayling, but brook, brown and rainbow trout—introduced in the 1890s—2ourished and have continued to attract anglers. Today the Au Sable’s popularity among 1shermen is nearly matched by its popularity among canoeists. Clear water, con- sistent 2ow, easy access and attractive surroundings make it a nearly ideal river for beginners and families, at least in the upper reaches, before the impoundments. Crossing those man-made ponds can be hard work, even dangerous when the wind is up. 3e Au Sable isn’t perfect. It su4ers for its popularity, especially on summer weekends, when canoes and tubes appear in unending procession, and anglers wade at every bend or 2oat down in riverboats. Much of the year, you can expect the sounds of the river to be punctuated with the boom and rattle of artillery and machine-gun 1re from the nearby National Guard Artillery Range. It’s a bizarre intrusion. Nonetheless, the Au Sable is a premier river and one of the 1nest canoeing (and 1shing) destinations in the Midwest. It also makes one of the best canoe-camp expeditions in the Lower Peninsula. Plan on at least 6 days (6 hours of paddling per day) to paddle from Grayling to Oscoda (keeping in mind that the winners of the annual Au Sable Marathon do it in less than 24 hours). Although the series of dams beginning at Mio hinder progress—and the reservoirs are distressingly long—portages are clear and well-marked, and numerous campgrounds and long stretches of state and national forests make the Au Sable a good choice for extended camping/ canoeing trips. Anglers should note that special regulations apply to certain sections of the river, including 2ies-only, no-kill in the “Holy Water” from Burton’s Land- ing to Wakeley Bridge.

GRAYLING to WAKELEY BRIDGE 14 MILES / 5 ½ – 6½ HOURS

Although the Au Sable’s beginnings are 20 miles north of Grayling, the river above the town is usually considered too small and brushy for enjoyable canoeing. It is interesting that, near the town of Frederick, the upper Au Sable

2 A! S"#$% R&'%( M"&)*+(%", comes within a few miles of the upper of most of the river all the way to Lake Manistee River, and for centuries that Huron. After the little East Branch of WAKELEY BRIDGE to PARMALEE BRIDGE area was the site of portages by native the Au Sable joins the mainstream, just 16.5 MILES / 5 – 7 ½ HOURS Americans using the two rivers as a outside of the Grayling city limits, the cross-state canoe route. river widens. From here to Wakeley Below Wakeley Bridge the river 1 Access in Grayling is not as simple Bridge the river is 25 – 40 feet wide and deepens and slows somewhat and enters as you might imagine. -ere is a city 1 – 3 feet deep, with sand or gravel bot- a series of turns and switchbacks with park on the upstream side of the M-72 tom and beds of aquatic vegetation lining deep pools at the bends. -ere are likely Bridge, but jumbled rocks at the site of the shore areas. -e water is remarkably to be fewer canoes than in the section the old dam under the bridge makes it clear and cold. Terrain is low hills of above. Cottages are frequent, but they necessary to portage the busy highway. hardwoods with cedars and occasional tend to be widely spaced. -e bottom is Canoe liveries just downstream will tag alders near the river. Homes and cot- predominantly sand and silt, and large usually grant permission to launch tages are frequent but scattered. numbers of drowned logs and stumps non-rental canoes from their property; Access and parking are good at line the banks. the one we asked charged a modest fee Au Sable River Canoe Campground, A short distance downstream is for overnight parking. An alternative is Burton’s Landing State Forest Camp- Whitepine Canoe Forest Campground, 5 to put in at any of the numerous access ground, and Keystone Landing State a good choice for an overnight trip sites and campgrounds a short distance Forest Campground—all 1½ to 2½ from Grayling (6 to 7 hours paddling 2 downstream from Grayling. hours below Grayling. Camping fa- time). It is considered a “group” camp- -e river in town is small, shallow and cilities are primitive (water, toilets and ground because of the large size of its narrow—with sand and gravel bottom— picnic tables). All three campgrounds sites, and o/ers only primitive facili- and is shaded by maples and willows. are often crowded on summer week- ties—toilets and potable water. Access is Current is steady and moderate—typical ends. Canoe Campground is especially limited to canoeists only, with the two- popular and is used as a put-in and track road leading to the campground

26 Miles to Gaylord take-out site by canoe liveries. privately owned and posted.

CR-612 Access and parking are good at the -e junction with the South Branch FREDERIC public site 200 yards downstream and of the Au Sable is approximately 2 3 on the right, below Stephan’s Bridge. miles below Whitepine Campground. 4 -e access site at Wakeley Bridge is a From here to Rainbow Bend State few hundred yards downstream on the Forest Campground is a long stretch right and has good access. Parking is a of wide, slow, relatively deep (3 to 6 GRAYLING HWY

River Flow hundred yards up the road. feet) water known as Conners Flats or

M-93 N N DOWN RIVER RD CR-608

WAKELEY BRIDGE RD

I-75

STEPHAN BRIDGE RD

N DOWN RIVER RD

East Branch

AU SABLE RIVER CONNERS FLATS RD CONNERS FLATS PUBLIC ACCESS M-93 (BUS. RTE. 1-75) RTE. (BUS. M-93 CANOE CAMPGROUND 3

HEADQUARTERS RD 2 To Kalkaska 6 KEYSTONE BURTON'S LANDING STATE FOREST 5 RAINBOW BEND M-72 STATE FOREST CAMPGROUND CAMPGROUND STATE FOREST CAMPGROUND 4 GRAYLING 1 S DOWN RIVER RD

WAKELY BRIDGE RD

M-72 South Branch

0 2 Miles

CHASE BRIDGE RD

27 Miles to Houghton Lake

3 A! S"#$% R&'%( M"&)*+(%",

M-72 CR-608 MILLER RD M-72 FAIRVIEW

North Branch M-72 RED OAK RD CR-601

CHERRY CREEK RD (CR-606) WHIRLPOOL ACCESS SITE 8 10 POPPS RD 9 F-32 11 MCKINLEY

LUZERNE MIO RD PARK DAM

PARMALEE BRIDGE DEETER RD River

7 CAMP 10 RD 12

Flow Big Creek Big M-72 MIO

CR-489 N O S C D A C R A W F O D LUZERNE

MCMASTERS BRIDGE RD 0 2 Miles M-33 M-72 DEETER RD the Stillwater. Conners Flats Public 2 hours of steady paddling, with a tail wind Mio Pond State Forest Campground 11 Access, with good parking and access that helped greatly in crossing Mio Pond. , with good access and parking and a and vault toilets, is reached o- Conners In fact, prevailing west winds are an aid canoe group camp and boat-ramp, is Flats Road and is 1½ to 2 hours below on all of the Au Sable’s impoundments, in located on the left (north) shore halfway Wakeley Bridge. contrast to the Manistee, Muskegon and to the dam. Rainbow Bend State Forest Camp- other west-2owing rivers, where winds Portage Mio Dam on the right side 6 ground is shortly after Conners Flats seem always to be a hindrance. of the powerhouse. Public Access. /is small, primitive Below Parmalee Bridge are sev- campground, reached via Conners Flats eral miles of 3ne water, with wide, fairly MIO DAM to MCKINLEY BRIDGE Road, is di0cult to spot from the river. shallow ri1es—some fast enough to 14.5 MILES / 4 ½ – 7 HOURS Look for a sandy landing and trail on create broken water—alternating with the left bank. narrow, deep, slow pools. Bottom is 7 McMasters Bridge, with good generally pea- to grapefruit-size stones Put in below Mio Dam or just down- access and parking, is a short distance with occasional large rocks to avoid. stream on the right at the DNR access site below the M-72/M-33 Bridge, downstream. From here to the junc- Camping, access and picnic grounds 12 tion with the North Branch of the Au are available at Luzerne Township Park, where access and parking are good. 9 Sable, expect faster current—though a short distance below Parmalee Expect lots of company on this section still far from di0cult paddling condi- Bridge, at the end of Deeter Road. during summer weekends. /e river is tions—gravel bottom, and some wide Whirlpool Access Site, beside wide (75 to 125 feet) and often fairly ri1es with medium-size stones to avoid. Cherry Creek Road, has good access fast as it repeats the ri1e/pool pattern Below the North Branch is another and parking. of the water above Mio. stretch of wide, slow 2ats followed by /e river slows and widens at the /e river passes much of the way fairly fast, wide, interesting water, with beginning of Mio Pond, a mile before from Mio to Oscoda through the 10 gravel bottom and occasional large rocks Camp 10 Bridge, where access and Huron National Forest, and camping the rest of the way to Parmalee Bridge. parking are good. From here to Mio is permitted only at the 102 individu- /e access and parking site at Dam are several miles of slow water, ally designated sites scattered from 4001 8 Parmalee is on the right, before the bordered by marshy, undeveloped shore bridge to Oscoda. Camping permits and bridge. Parmalee State Forest Camp- with the isolated feel of wilderness. /e reservations are required between May ground, with rustic sites for canoeists, is pond can be a piece of cake—or it can 15 and September 30 ($10 per night, as directly across the river from the public be a back-breaker. Wind is the key. of 2013). Reservations must be made at access site. Headwinds or strong winds from any least four days in advance and can be direction can make crossing this and the made online using the clumsy system larger ponds downstream tricky at best at wwww.recreation.gov (search for PARMALEE BRIDGE (RED OAK RD) to MIO DAM “camping” in “Huron-Manistee Na- 12.5 MILES / 3 – 6 HOURS and exhausting or dangerous at worst. Keep an eye on the weather; if strong tional Forest”.) A toll-free reservation winds are predicted, wait them out. number is o-ered: 1-877-444-6777. We made this trip in a little more than Reservations and permits can also be

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