KELLWOOD SLIPS/2 A&F AIMS HIGHER/21 WWWDomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • March 11, 2005 • $2.00 ▲ Makeup artist Pat McGrath’s maiden Beauty effort for Cover Girl, Custom Compacts, was unveiled at CTFA. Page 15 Black Beauty PARIS — It’s no that Olivier Theyskens is fond of somber Victoriana. And for fall, he used that fascination to give his collection for Rochas an elegant new dimension. He simplified the period’s waist-hugging jackets and long skirts into a dramatically long, lean silhouette that was right in keeping with this season’s sober mood. Here, one of his 19th-century- inspired numbers. For more dark looks, see pages 6 and 7.

Urban Outfitters Aims For New Growth Avenues As Profits Zoom 72.2% By Meredith Derby NEW YORK — The ultracool is now ultrahot. Urban Outfitters’ growing popularity with hipster shoppers led to earnings and sales growth for the fourth quarter of 72.2 and 42.9 percent, respectively. Higher merchandise margins, increases in customer transactions and strength in catalogue and Internet-based sales bolstered results as the company had double-digit profitability increases in each of its three brands in the quarter. Year- end results also were impressive with profits that doubled, year-over-year. “Fiscal 2005 was far and away the finest See Urban, Page20 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005 WWD.COM Kellwood Net Plunges 51% WWDFRIDAY By Evan Clark Hal Going forward, the company Beauty Upbin will need to contend with the NEW YORK — The pain keeps planned $17 billion merger of coming for Kellwood Co. Federated Department Stores FASHION A promotional holiday sea- and May Department Stores, Black is back for fall and so are sober styles that made a particular impact son and fashion missteps cut which is slated to be completed 6 for evening in Empire waists, puffed sleeves, lace panels and fishtail hems. earnings for the fourth quarter this year. The deal will create a ended Jan. 29 by 51.3 percent to giant retailer with an estimated $6.5 million, or 23 cents a dilut- $30 billion in sales and 950 de- GENERAL ed share, compared with $13.3 partment stores. Urban Outfitters posted a 72.2 percent spike in fourth-quarter earnings to million, or 48 cents, a year ago. In addition to the tremendous 1 $31.7 million, while sales gained 42.9 percent to $251.6 million. The first quarter is expected clout Federated will hold over Kellwood’s net earnings dropped 50 percent in the fourth quarter to $6.5 to bring more of the same, as re- its vendors, Kellwood will be af- 2 million compared with a year ago, as sales gained 14 percent to $592 million. tailers reacted to the stumble by fected when, by 2007, the moder- Her House of Deréon sportswear isn’t in stores yet, but Beyoncé Knowles reducing their spring orders. ately orientated nameplates of has already lined up an outerwear licensee with G-III Apparel Group. “We are obviously very disap- May, such as Kaufmann’s and 2 pointed,” chairman and chief Filene’s, shift slightly upward BEAUTY: The CTFA’s annual meeting began with a changing of the guard executive officer Hal Upbin said and are melded into Federated’s 14 and ended with a plan to deal with the challenges of the future. in a statement. Macy’s chain. Retailers and credit card companies scored a major victory with legislation “It typically takes two sea- Kellwood has made moves to 22 to reform the nation’s bankruptcy laws that passed in the Senate. sons to get back on track in the diversify its product assortment, fashion business,” he said. “The snatching up the Calvin Klein bet- company has taken the neces- ter sportswear license from SUZY sary corrective actions, includ- Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. and J.Lo in the nude…The Royal Stamp…Carolina Herrera’s grandbaby ing upgrading design and mer- acquiring Phat Fashions last year, 4 Olimpia. chandising talent to get back on downs and off-price sales during and more recently revamping the track by fall 2005, which will the fourth quarter. bridge-priced Bill Burns collec- Classified Advertisements...... 23 begin shipping in July.” Kellwood on Jan. 24 warned tion, giving it an item orientation. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Kellwood, a specialist in that earnings would come in at The company is not as diversi- [email protected], using the individual’s name. moderately priced apparel, is less than half the $13.7 million fied as others in the field, such as WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 also catering to a consumer that projected on Dec. 2. Jones and Liz Claiborne Inc., FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. has room for little discretionary The reduction in spring or- both of which have made strong VOLUME 189, NO. 52. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional spending and is pressured by ders is clamping down on the moves into retail. Jones’ portfolio issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL debt, higher energy and food first quarter, which Kellwood includes Barneys New York and OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill costs and employment concerns. sees producing a 48 percent drop Nine West stores while Claiborne Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Kellwood produces a slate of its in earnings to about $13 million, has Lucky Brand and Mexx Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at own brands, including Sag or 45 cents a share, from $25 mil- stores, as well as a slate of other additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration Harbor, Koret, Beliza and Jax, lion, or 90 cents, a year ago. Sales retail initiatives under way. No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR as well as Calvin Klein better are projected to drop 6.7 percent Upbin has recently acknowl- SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR sportswear and Liz Claiborne to $640 million from $686 million. edged that Kellwood also might DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new suits and dresses under license. “We expect sales for the re- make a move into retail to bet- subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production As the fourth quarter failed to maining three quarters to be ei- ter diversify, shielding the busi- correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, jell and retailers cut back orders, ther essentially flat or up modest- ness further from the sometimes please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully the firm was forced to go to the ly versus last year,” Upbin said. roller-coaster marketplace. screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive off-price channel, which drove Investors traded shares of The first quarter is expected these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED sales up 13.7 percent to $592.3 Kellwood up 18 cents, or 0.6 per- to drag down the year. For 2005, MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND million from $521.1 million. cent, to $29.28 on the Big Board Kellwood is planning on earnings TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Other vendors were caught in Thursday before the after-mar- of roughly $68.5 million, or $2.38 TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE a similar bind and also turned to ket report. a share, a drop of 2.3 percent. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. the off-pricers to clear goods and For the year, Kellwood’s Sales are slated to drop approxi- keep inventory lean, saturating earnings fell 1.4 percent to $70.1 mately 2.2 percent to $2.5 billion. the market and making sales million, or $2.50 a diluted share, The core women’s sportswear even less profitable. Competitor from $71.1 million, or $2.62. business is looking for a 6 per- Quote of the Week Jones Apparel Group reported Sales advanced 8.9 percent to cent drop in sales for the year to that it was also hit hard by mark- $2.56 billion from $2.35 billion. $1.4 billion. “It’s the best thing that could happen at Gucci.” — François-Henri Pinault confirming that Frida Giannini will take over as the Beyoncé Signs Outerwear Deal With G-III brand’s rtw designer. nary outerwear collection for the By Rosemary Feitelberg A sketch holiday season…the perfect coat for House NEW YORK — Beyoncé Knowles’ to complement our fashion line.” of Deréon’s House of Deréon sportswear label This marks the budding collec- In Brief outerwear. isn’t in stores yet, but she has al- tion’s second licensing deal. In ready lined up an outerwear li- January, the Knowles duo an- censee, G-III Apparel Group. nounced they had signed an ● PINK PEOPLE: Pink, the younger lingerie line introduced by Knowles isn’t the type to sit agreement with Tarrant Apparel Victoria’s Secret in 2003, named two executives this week to back and take in the scenery, as Group, a leading Los Angeles- help develop the label into a “fully articulated brand.” Douglas anyone who saw her sing three based private label manufacturer, Zarkin was named vice president of marketing, and Jennifer songs at the Oscars can attest. to produce a young contemporary Wolinetz was named vice president of public relations. Both re- That persona is fine with G-III, a sportswear collection. Last month port to Deborah Fine, chief executive officer of Pink, which is brand better known for lower- they scoured the New York run- geared for 18- to 22-year-olds. Fine, Zarkin and Wolinetz are all wattage licensed labels like Cole- ways during fashion week. former executives of Avon Future, the business unit responsible Haan and Nine West outerwear. Beyond Productions LLC, the for launching the Mark beauty brand designed to attract the next “Beyoncé has a kind of ele- company the mother-daughter generation of Avon buyers and sellers. Zarkin served as execu- gance, confidence and position in team founded last year with tive director of consumer marketing and creative services; the fashion arena that is unparal- Jason and Arthur Rabin and Cory Wolinetz served as executive director of public relations and leled,’’ said Jeanette Nostra, G- Silverstein of Wear Me Apparel- special events, and Fine was president. III’s president. “Women really as- Kids Headquarters here, is han- pire to look like her and be like dling the House of Deréon’s li- ● SEARS MOVE: Alan Lacy, chairman and chief executive offi- her.” censing and brand management. cer of Sears, Roebuck & Co., will become chairman of Sears G-III was barraged with phone ready for holiday in specialty and Instead of resting on their Canada Inc. at the end of March, succeeding Glenn Richter, who calls from retailers Thursday, department stores. Wool, woven, label’s star power, mother and is leaving the company as previously announced. Sears is ex- shortly after news spread that the leather and active styles will be daughter are taking their business pected to merge with Kmart this month. Lacy’s title will be vice House of Deréon label of Knowles offered initially, Nostra said. seriously. When the outerwear chairman and ceo of the combined entity, Sears Holdings Corp. and her mother Tina landed an Pricing has not been set. deal was announced, the elder Lacy is a member of the Sears Canada board. Brent Hollister outerwear deal. A capsule collec- The Grammy Award-winning Knowles was in Paris with co-cre- continues as president and ceo of Sears Canada, which is con- tion of 12 to 18 coats and jackets entertainer said in a statement, ative director Heather Thomson trolled by Sears, Roebuck. in a variety of fabrics will be “We want to launch an extraordi- Schindler shopping for trends. THE FIRST PERFUME BY

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT SAKS FIFTH AVENUE 4 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005 WWD.COM J.Lo in the Nude ● The Royal Stamp ● Baby Olimpia

50 years and his roster of clients has included such Jennifer Lopez great tastemakers as Jackie Onassis, Babe Paley, Happy Rockefeller and Brooke Astor. Just about everybody who knows him loves and admires the ever-charming and genial Albert, including the late, great, formidable, demanding, almost-impossible-to-please, sharp-tongued Sister Parish, his partner at the renowned New York firm Parish Hadley for three decades. So, “who better to honor with this award than such an illustrious alumnus [Class of 1949] as Albert Hadley?” said Paul Goldberger, Parsons’ dean. Who better, indeed. ● More honors: The theater crowd will dress in its finest on April 17 when the American Academy of Dramatic Arts honors its beautiful alumnus, Dina Merrill, actress, businesswoman and philanthropist, with its prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award. The festivities will happen at the Pierre Hotel and, of course, it’s all terribly black tie, because along with celebrating Dina, the AADA is celebrating its 100th anniversary. Oh, and Kitty Carlisle Hart is the honorary chairman. Everybody knows Kitty is at everything black tie, 24/7. The evening will benefit the newly founded Dina Merrill Scholarship Fund at AADA. ● Allison and Leonard Stern opened the doors of their Fifth Avenue town house for a dinner honoring Ronald Weintraub’s first exhibition of abstract paintings at the Salander-O’Reilly Gallery. Allison wore on her black dinner suit the vintage diamond pin Nancy from Cartier that her ReReaganagan husband had just inin given her to welcome happier guests such as times. Joanne de Guardiola, Karen and Richard LeFrak, Lyn Revson in a silver lamé top and a black skirt by Zoran, Evelyn and Leonard Lauder, Carolina Muffie Potter Aston Herrera and Dr. Sherrell Aston, Mario Buatta, and Francesca Stanfill and Dick Nye. Suzy Harriet Weintraub, By Aileen Mehle who is ever so chic, wore Prada’s Former U.S. Ambassador John Loeb Jr. and chocolate beaded Sharon Handler, whom he calls “the jacket over slim black wonderful lady in my life,” are celebrating pants. To top off the eye® John’s 75th birthday on June 11 at Blenheim evening, cookies in Palace, the far-flung English county seat of the shape of painters’ the Dukes of Marlborough. The reason John decided on palettes were served. Blenheim for the big 300-guest affair is because the palace Is that cute? You just is the ancestral home of Winston Churchill, and for more know it is. than 30 years, John has been associated with the Churchill ● family and the Churchill . John received a Can you believe Commander of the British Empire decoration from the this? Jennifer Lopez has taken it all off for art’s sake, Queen in recognition of this foundation. but only because her husband, Marc Anthony, asked her You will be thrilled to hear that five members of the to. She posed provacatively while Marc, brush and Churchill family will be there for the big night, among palette in hand, painted her looking back over her them Lady Mary Soames (Churchill’s youngest shoulder, providing a crystal-clear view of the asset that daughter); Lady Henrietta Spencer-Churchill; The Hon. made her famous, the view that catapulted her from the Winston Churchill (Churchill’s grandson) and his wife, Bronx to superstardom. Don’t get too excited, because Luce, and the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, to say the oil painting is not headed to a gallery near you. nothing of such worthies as Ambassador and Mrs. Jennifer has hung it in the dressing room of her Los Ogden Reid; the Earl of Lichfield and Lady Annunziata Angeles home for inspiration. Sure, but whose? Asquith; Henrietta, Duchess of Bedford; former U.S. ● Ambassador to England Philip Lader; the Earl of Queen Elizabeth II has literally given her stamp of Dartmouth, who will give a buffet dinner at his home the approval to the upcoming marriage of Charles and next night for all the guests who will have come from Camilla by ordering the issue of two new stamps from overseas; Lord Rothschild (Jacob) and Lady Rothschild; the Royal Mail. The stamps were created from The Hon. and Mrs. Desmond Guinness; the Earl and photographs personally chosen by the happy couple. Countess of Dudley, and Lord and Lady Dunsany. Spain to be there when their gorgeous daughter, The pictures were taken in Scotland at Balmoral and the Also invited are such nontitled but nonetheless Carolina Jr., has her baby. They know already that it will Castle of Mey, which was owned by the Queen Mother eminently acceptable American guests as Mary be a girl and that she will be named Olimpia. That’s for until her death and where the prince spent some of his McFadden; Hilary and Wilbur Ross; Richard V. Allen short. In full, it’s Olimpia de la Concepcion. The baby’s happiest childhood days. Charles and Camilla are both (President Ronald Reagan’s first national security daddy is the handsome Spanish bullfighting legend El wearing green tweed jackets and big smiles, adviser); Mr. and Mrs. George F. Baker 3rd; Astrid and Litre (“the dandy“). That’s for short. In full, it’s Don complemented by a bachelor’s boutonniere (his) and a Christopher Forbes and Mr. and Mrs. John McCloy II. Miguel Baez Spinola. big brooch (hers). John’s daughter, Alexandra Driscoll; his son, Nicholas ● ● Loeb, and all four of his siblings — Judy Loeb Chiara, Master interior designer Albert Hadley, I would just like to say that the picture of Nancy Reagan Arthur Loeb, Ann Loeb Bronfman and Debbie Loeb internationally regarded as the “dean of interior that ran in this column last Wednesday was taken during Brice — will celebrate with their brother. You’re only designers,” will be honored at a benefit luncheon on the time of President Ronald Reagan’s funeral when her 75 once, and by then, it’s time to play the palace. March 15 at the Rainbow Room, where he will receive grief shook the world. As time has lessened her loss and ● the Parsons School of Design’s first Centurion Award she goes on with her life, she obviously looks much Carolina and Reinaldo Herrera have flown off to for Design Excellence. Albert’s splendid career spans lovelier now. Valiant is the word for Nancy Reagan. ordinary? ABSOLUTELY NOT. Havana Brown, the “puppy-dog cat.”Havana Brown, the Mortensen. 19. Photograph by Jens March 2005, page

The magazine for the most affluent readers in the world’s most affluent city.

Contact Ernie Renzulli 212.779.3200 6 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005

DaWho’s afraid of the dark? Certainlyrk not fashion designers. BlackAngels is back for fall, and so are sober, even somber, styles that would have delighted Morticia Addams. They made a particular impact for evening, blending the sinister and the ethereal with such 19th-century touches as Empire waists, puffed sleeves, lace panels and fishtail hems.

Marc Jacobs Salvatore Ferragamo Lagerfeld Gallery ▲ PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND DAVID TURNER MAESTRI AND DAVID GIANNONI, DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Alberta Ferretti

Comme des Garçons

▲ Gianfranco Ferré 8 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005

The Beauty Report WWD.COM ’s New Reason to Smile

By Molly Prior vince Sephora to give its brand visibility in its stores. For its part, GoSmile glammed up its image — NEW YORK — Sephora president and chief executive ditching any hint of its clinical beginnings — by pack- officer David Suliteanu is a self-professed “ampoules aging its “cool and chic” whitening ampoules in a sil- addict.” He divulged that GoSmile ampoules — little ver compact, and changing the semantics used to de- vials filled with tooth-whitening solution — are scribe the category from “tooth whitening” to “smile “everywhere but the dashboard of my car.” beauty,” explained GoSmile president Stacey Levine, Suliteanu’s fondness for whitening on the go, cou- Dr. Levine’s wife who oversees the retail side of the pled with the explosive growth of the category, has business. Dr. Levine developed the products seven prompted Sephora to officially name the “smile” its years ago for his patients, and launched them in stores fifth retail pillar. “Smile beauty,” as it’s also known, two years ago. “We felt the beauty industry was miss- joins Sephora’s established retail categories of make- ing another category,” said Stacey Levine. up, skin care, fragrance (the heart of the business) and Last summer, Sephora and GoSmile began working hair care, which it added to the mix two years ago. together in earnest to build a merchandising concept Sephora’s embrace of “smile beauty” — or at-home for the brand. The pair developed a permanent tooth whitening as it’s known out- GoSmile endcap, which rolled out to all side the doors of the and Sephora stores last October. “The mo- fragrance retailer — comes as con- ment GoSmile left the bottom shelf sumers have begun to show a fasci- [in the skin care department], our nation with pearly white teeth (a brand took a whole new position prerequisite of megawatt in beauty,” said Stacey Levine. Hollywood smiles). Approximately The endcap is stocked with 100 million Americans have already GoSmile’s entire product line latched on to the trend, according — which ranges in price to a study by financial services firm from a $16 toothpaste to $98 Morgan Stanley. They are seeking for its Go All Out Starter Kit, out treatments in dentist offices, in TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY a Sephora exclusive. It also drugstores and, more recently, in spe- spotlights other exclusives, cialty shops and upscale department such as the GoSparkle Daily stores. All tolled, Americans shelled out Compact, which contains five over $1 billion dollars on tooth-whitening ampoules and a Sephora Super PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY services and products in 2003, up from Shimmer in Think Pink for $30. GoSmile endcap at Sephora. $50 million in 2001. Morgan Stanley “It’s a big deal for us to dedicate an endcap projects the niche business will reach to a brand,” noted Suliteanu, explaining that such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Henri Bendel and $15 billion in sales by 2010. GoSmile daily tooth- most of Sephora endcaps are flexible fixtures Nordstrom, GoSmile has set up shop in some 400 Brands such as , Colgate and whitening ampoules. that rotate throughout the store to draw atten- doors, including Bloomingdale’s, Bergdorf Goodman Rembrandt carved out the category in tion to new products. Suliteanu made clear that and a handful of spas and beauty shops. The company drugstore chains and discount stores nearly three years the beauty retailer’s partnership with GoSmile goes be- plans to be in 900 doors by year’s end. The privately ago. But Suliteanu credits GoSmile, a tooth-whitening yond the display. The pair poured energy into training held company, which had just under $1 million in re- system developed by New York City dentist Jonathan Sephora’s sales staff on how to use, demo and sell the tail sales for 2003, has generated doubled-digit growth Levine, with evolving whitening products into beauty tooth-whitening system. Each Sephora salesperson is each year since its inception. tools, at home next to lip gloss and mascara. outfitted with a white wristlet of whitening ampoules, or Stacey Levine credits the growth to the company’s “Our business is focused on the face,” said “Shera” bracelet, as one store associate referred to it. ability to offer consumers a simple and downright chic Suliteanu, adding, “Our customer is serious about all The band makes it easy for salespeople to demo solution to tooth whitening. things beauty, and for Sephora not to focus on the smile GoSmile in the middle of a makeover or applica- While Suliteanu would not comment on the percent- was a big miss for us.” Sephora first dabbled in the cat- tion. GoSmile will soon provide black wristlets, better age of sales oral care accounts for he declared: “I think egory several years ago, clearing room for oral care suited for Sephora’s black uniforms. the business potential for smile beauty is terrific.” items on a bottom shelf next to dermatologist-created The retailer upped its commitment to the category GoSmile will launch in Sephora’s French doors in May. skin care brands. Other brands in the slim assortment last month by creating a permanent “smile” tab on its “What I believe is going to happen is that you will see include Supersmile and Darphin DenBlan toothpaste. Web site. The “smile” store also includes lip exfolia- more product diversity,” said Suliteanu. Dr. Levine is al- Suliteanu acknowledged shoppers had trouble finding tors, plumpers and balms. ready brimming with ideas, mentioning sprays, lip balms the section, and that GoSmile had to work hard to con- Since bowing in 50 doors two years ago in stores and a more powerful version of GoSmile’s current system. Palmer’s Seeks Youth With Skin Success Burberry Scent Sales Drive Inter Parfums NEW YORK — The antiage craze has trickled down to an old standby beauty NEW YORK — While higher royalty rates related to its Burberry fragrances pres- brand best known for its cocoa butter stretch mark remedies. sured fourth-quarter earnings results, strong sales helped Inter Parfums Inc. E.T. Browne, the makers of Palmer’s skin and hair care products, has achieve a 13.5 percent earnings gain for the year. launched an antiaging line under Palmer’s Skin Success brand, a four-item line For the three months ended Dec. 31, the New York cosmetics and fragrance of antiaging formulas made with botanical extracts and natural antioxidants. manufacturer saw earnings slide 6.1 percent to $3.5 million, or 17 cents a diluted Palmer’s decided to enter the antiage arena after a survey the company con- share, compared with earnings of $3.7 million, or 18 cents, in the year-ago period. ducted showed how unwilling many women are to have invasive procedures to Sales for the period vaulted 29.7 percent to $63.8 million from $49.2 million, help them look younger. bolstered by strong sales of the Burberry Brit, Burberry London, Burberry “Out of 500 women, 86 percent said they were not willing to get an invasive Weekend and Burberry Touch fragrances. procedure to get rid of wrinkles,” said Rebecca Brown, director of marketing. “Burberry Brit for men, which launched last fall, is our best-selling men’s fra- The survey also showed that 62 percent of women are willing to spend up to grance ever,” said Jean Madar, chairman and chief executive officer, during a $50 for an antiaging cream, and when presented with a high-quality product at conference call with analysts. “real world” prices, they’ll try one. During the call, Russell Greenberg, chief financial officer, said prestige prod- Indeed, the Palmer’s brand brings credibility to the company’s entry into an- ucts like the Burberry fragrances accounted for 84 percent of total sales. tiage, especially with its ambitious claims on packaging. Prestige product sales rose 39 percent during the quarter while sales of mass The Face Lift Serum, for example, claims to “help lift and firm sagging market products fell 11 percent. skin,” and will provide “instant visible results.” The Age Spot Serum is de- Higher royalty rates for Burberry, which went into effect on July 1, sent sell- signed to “lighten age spots, freckles, melasma and dark spots,” while the ing, general and administrative costs soaring and were responsible for the lower Skin Stress Cream “calms redness,” and the Crow’s Feet Serum “helps firm quarterly earnings. SG&A expenses rose to $28.9 million, or 45 percent of sales, and lift eye area.” A kit combines mini sizes of all four items. Each kit re- compared with SG&A expenses of $17.5 million, or 35.5 percent of sales in the tails for $14. same period a year ago — an increase of 970 basis points. The Skin Success antiage line entered 1,500 Wal-Mart doors in January to For the year, earnings increased 13.5 percent to $15.7 million, or 77 cents, great success. As a result, it will enter 250 Target doors and several hundred from $13.8 million, or 69 cents, in 2003, on sales that surged 27.2 percent to $236 drugstore doors in May. million from $185.6 million. TV and print ads have been slotted for the end of March and the begin- Management also announced that Marcella Cacci would be joining the com- ning of April. E.T. Browne looks to spend as much as $4.7 million. Brown ex- pany as president of the Burberry Fragrances business next week. Cacci spent pects the Skin Success antiage collection to generate $9.25 million its first five years with Burberry Group, most recently serving as a senior vice president year on shelves. of global licensing. — Andrea Nagel —Ross Tucker

10 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005

The Beauty Report WWD.COM Graffiti Hits Drugstores NEW YORK — A new start-up beauty company called Graffiti Cosmetics plans to scrawl its mark in mass market beauty departments, legally of course. The company’s “tag” — graffiti artist slang for autograph — can already be spotted in a handful of Walgreens stores in Southern California. The company, based in Studio City, Calif., was the brainchild of Tabitha

Lafayette — a woman who has made JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY her living getting ahead of color trends Select items from Graffiti Cosmetics. — and her former business associate, Michele Schatz. The co-founders met while working in the new home construc- tion business for a firm called Vista Paint. Prior to her seven years at Vista, Lafayette — who oversees the creative side The Booth’s product line. Colleen and Stan Booth of the small beauty firm — worked as a fashion “specialist” at both Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s, outfitting the well-heeled in designer clothes. “With me it’s about color,” asserted Lafayette, who keeps close tabs on European trends to gauge the next “It” color. Two years ago, the pair dreamed up the idea of an edgy and affordable cos- Delicious Brands Strives metics collection for young women. Graffiti Cosmetics, billed as for drugstores, bowed in seven Walgreens doors in Southern California in November. The line is slated to roll out to 15 more Walgreens stores in California in April and is expected to begin a national rollout this summer. By the end of this month, the beauty company plans to begin selling its wares on To Fill Retailers’ Appetite the company Web site, graffiticomsetics.com. After browsing through European pharmacies, Lafayette said she realized the NEW YORK — Mass marketers have been in hot water with the bath and body cate- American mass market was missing a cosmetics line with a decidedly urban look. gory for the past four years. Items in the line, housed in clear packaging decorated with overlapping Sales sunk a few percentage points last year, marking three consecutive years of “Mod-inspired” rings of color, range in price from a $4.99 to $8 for decline. Colleen Booth, president and chief executive officer of Delicious Brands, foundation. Graffiti plays up its hip — almost too cool for drugstores — image has seen the ebb and flow of the bath and body category in the mass arena. She with shade names such as Hell Bent, Rapture and Clairvoyant. thinks she has the solution with her new firm offering a menu of different lines cre- Lafayette and Schatz, who oversees the financial side of the business, began ated for specific retail needs. meeting with retailers in May. At the time, one national drugstore buyer said Graffiti “No retailer needs another raspberry gel or salt rub,” said Booth. “I saw a trend was “too far ahead of the game.” Despite the buyer’s initial resistance, Lafayette to give retailers something that fits their own personality.” said she expects to sign a distribution deal with the drugstore chain shortly. Currently, Delicious Brands offers five options ranging from 3 in 1, which Booth Lafayette disclosed that the company has a first-year retail sales goal of $1.3 said is perfect for commodity retailers, to Habitat, a collection of home aromatics million, and hopes to be in 1,000 doors by year’s end (although she acknowl- for more upscale doors. There’s also the Booth’s brand, which is reminiscent of edged that she and her partner would be happy with 500). Kiehl’s, Bath Basics with aromatherapy components and Spalicious, a salon-in- — Molly Prior spired collection. A new collection called Mod Spa will bow in Rite Aid soon. The menu of choices also allows Delicious Brands to sell to an array of retailers. Habitat, for example, is a snug fit with the upscale environment at Linens ’n Things. Bath Basics and Spalicious fit into bath departments at chain drugstores and mass doors. B. Kamins Ready for Men Rather than opt for the very flowery and heavily scented products associated NEW YORK — Skin care marketer B. Critical Mass with the mass market, all of the packaging Kamins is tossing its hat into the By Faye Brookman for Delicious Brands is simple and men’s grooming ring. The seven-year- straightforward. old cosmeceuticals brand plans to in- What’s unique about Habitat is that it troduce a five-item range, called B. features home fragrances as an alternative to candles. A reed diffuser absorbs oil, Kamins Male, next month. which is then dispersed into the air. Booth’s, with a tag line “for over three “We feel it’s time,” said Howard decades” referring to Booth’s age, features bath and body for the entire family. Kaminsky, president of Montreal- “Booth’s has a real cult following, especially the walnut body scrub and ,” based B. Kamins. “The men’s category said Booth. Bath Basics ranges from lavender to aid in sleeping to sage for rejuve- is certainly getting bigger, but also we nation. Spalicious creates the feeling of a spa or salon at a reasonable price for the feel there’s a lack of treatment-orient- home. And 3 in 1 is a bubble bath, shower gel and in one. Prices for all ed men’s lines.” lines range from $8.99 to $12.99. B. Kamins Male features Sea Booth thinks bath and body sales are stalled because of the sameness of the of- Protein Foaming Cleanser, Soothing The B. Kamins Male assortment. fering. “Retailers coming into our room at a trade show were happy to see some- Aftershave Balm, Antiaging Daily thing fresh. There is so much sameness,” she said. SPF 15, Antiaging ing sensitive skin, rosacea and redness.” She’s no stranger to the bath and body business. Booth and a partner launched Soothing Eye Gel and Bio-Maple B. Kamins, which is projected to be State of Mind in the late Nineties, one of the first bath lines to bring spa quality to Fortified Shampoo. The line, which nearing the $50 million mark in net the mass market. State of Mind was perhaps ahead of its time and although sales ranges in price from $22 for the 8.5-oz. revenues this year, is perhaps best goals were reached, the brand was sold to Mana Products in 1999 and eventually shampoo to $46 for the 1.7- known for its proprietary phased out. Booth also helped build a following for Bradford Soap. oz. moisturizer, could gen- Bio-Maple compound, a Booth is confident she has the right lineup with Delicious Brands. Industry sources erate $4 million in retail derivative of maple tree estimate the company’s sales have doubled since last year and should expand by 20 sales volume during its sap that contains antioxi- percent by the end of 2005. “I saw that it was hard for shoppers to shop the category in first year on the market. dants and minerals. a sea of products. I wanted to provide the basics to make it easy,” said Booth. She’s The men’s collection will Kaminsky described cos- planning to launch some equally simple-to-shop skin care via starter kits this year. initially launch in about meceuticals as products ● ● ● one-third of B. Kamins’ 900- that are “more treatment- While Delicious Brands seeks to fill a hole in mass market bath, Once Removed is hop- door distribution base, in- and results-oriented.” Other ing to build upon the success of its Once Removed brush-on, wipe-off re- cluding locations like C.O. skin care brands that would mover. Once Removed is the only company to have an odorless nail polish remover on Bigelow, Sephora Canada fit into this classification, he the market. Now it is introducing the Nail Polish Remover Pen with Treatment Serum and Willow Stream Spas at Fairmont said, include N.V. Perricone, Murad and and a Cuticle Pusher Pen with Treatment Serum. The Nail Polish Remover Pen is the Hotel locations. The full B. Kamins as- Doctor’s Dermatological Formula. first product to remove nail enamel with no harsh chemicals that create noxious fumes. sortment features 43 products. “One big complaint after is The Cuticle Pusher Pen incorporates the healthy cuticles serum formula containing “We decided to get into men’s skin burning and redness,” Kaminsky said. natural oils and vitamins and soothes the outer nail layer, absorbing quickly into the care but to attack it differently than it “So [the] Soothing Aftershave Balm gets skin. The Nail Polish Remover pen retails for $3.99 and the Cuticle Pusher Pen for $4.99. has been attacked before,” said rid of redness.” Additionally, “We felt ● ● ● Kaminsky, meaning that B. Kamins Male men would prefer an eye gel rather than Walgreen’s is adding 30 Sempre/HCD hair color machines to stores in May, while will be aligned with the brand’s “roots of an eye cream,” Kaminsky said. “Gels in Jean Coutu is now in negotiations to add an additional 25 machines to their stores. treatment-oriented skin care — gentle general sell better to men than creams.” Several European drugstores are beginning to test the hair color machines, which cosmeceuticals — with a focus on sooth- — Matthew W. Evans allow users to customize their hair color in-store. PHOTOGRAPHY BY FABRIZIO FERRI SYMBIOSIS MAKESTHEFINERFRAGRANCE shall wedance?

14 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005 The Beauty Report

George Schaeffer Alberto-Culver’s Jack Stahl Bill McMenemy of OPI Products. Toshio Negami Maggie Ciafardini Howard Bernick.

E. Edward Arie Daniel Scott Beattie Michael McNamara Kavanaugh Kopelman Richard Goldstein Rachmanis Eric Thoreux Marc Pritchard

Demi Timra Carlson Thoman Eric Horowitz PHOTOS BY STEPHEN LEEK PHOTOS BY CTFA Faces a Combative Future a BOCA RATON, Fla. — The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Frag- That’s particularly critical in light of regulations There were those, however, who disagreed. rance Association’s annual meeting began March 2 with that are being forced upon American beauty compa- “Fragrance has become a specialized commodity,” said a changing of the guard and ended three days later with nies doing business elsewhere in the world, he said. Kip Crennan, president of the fragrance division of a plan to deal with the challenges of the future. “The U.S. beauty industry is part of a larger global Mane USA. “In fashion, a woman doesn’t think twice E. Edward Kavanaugh, president of CTFA for the community, with consumers influenced by trends com- about going back to the store every season to buy cloth- past 33 years, officially retired at the meeting, held at ing from other countries, and more than half the sales ing. So what’s the matter with a fashion-forward, limit- the Boca Raton Resort & Club here. His successor is outside of our borders,” said Pritchard. “A majority of ed-edition fragrance on a seasonal basis? The days of expected to be been named, but CTFA is keeping a our member companies conduct operations interna- creating classics are slim to none anymore.” tight lid on information. tionally and are often subject to regulations that are Kopelman also discussed what he called “Paris Avon’s Andrea Jung, who has served as CTFA’s chair for not influenced by what happens here. With the Hilton syndrome.” the past four years, also handed over her title — to Procter European Union now larger than the U.S. market, we “We live in a star-crazed world,” said Kopelman. & Gamble Beauty’s Marc Pritchard, who vowed to lead the can no longer assume the world will follow the U.S. on “We think celebrities are a quick hit, but in the long organization into the future by focusing on three key pil- regulatory matters. In fact, we are seeing safety and term that doesn’t work. Success is about executing big lars: self-regulation and safety, products and philanthropy. regulation issues coming from other markets and im- ideas with staying power. It’s about breakthrough prod- Self-regulation was the most top-of-mind of those pacting us — witness the European Seventh ucts, not baby steps.” topics for most industry execs, who have been rocked by Amendment impact on possible California legislation. But flankers aren’t all bad, insisted Art Spiro, presi- initiatives such as Europe’s Seventh Amendment, a far- Some of these influences are certainly welcome, if they dent of Liz Claiborne Cosmetics. “Launching a brand is reaching product-labeling mandate. While Pritchard can level the playing field across markets and make it challenging,” he said. “The research, the development praised Jung for her work in connecting CTFA with in- easier to foster innovation. But some of these forces process and the overall cost of entry is very expensive. I ternational trade associations, he stressed the impor- could impose standards that are not appropriate for believe flankers as well as celebrity fragrances offer one tance of taking that work to the next level. every market, and may even inhibit innovation.” advantage in launch strategy: awareness. With a flanker “We must build even stronger links, and indeed al- The global playing field was further discussed by the core brand has been established. The consumer is liances, with trade associations around the world — T.R. Reid, the Washington Post’s Denver bureau chief, familiar with the image, the position, and you already particularly COLIPA [European Cosmetic, Toiletry and who has also served as bureau chief for the paper’s have a connection and, quite frankly, an expectation. Perfumery Assoc.] in Europe — to work together on a Tokyo and London outposts. “America-bashing is a “Also,” continued Spiro, “celebrity fragrances offer common set of actions,” said Pritchard, who is presi- great sport in Europe, but I think America is the least instant recognition. The public persona has been estab- dent of global retail hair color, cosmetics and personal insular country,” said Reid, who is also the author of lished and the next step is to utilize this awareness in care for Procter & Gamble’s beauty businesses. “We the best-selling “The United States of Europe.” an impactful way.” will all benefit by harmonizing critical regulations in However, he said, the European Union is an increas- For those who choose not to go the flanker route, all markets that enable innovation and competition to ingly more important entity “which sets a lot of the what can fill the void? “It doesn’t always have to be make the lives of consumers better. rules with global commerce.” about a new fine fragrance launch — we can also “Second, we need to boost company leadership in Another buzz at Boca was a rehash of the eternal de- evolve into offering additional fragrance products, these associations,” Pritchard continued. “Progress re- bate: Is the fragrance industry harming the category by such as more heavily fragranced personal care items,” quires commitment from experienced company lead- constantly launching flankers and new scents? In his said Demi Thoman, president, fragrances North ers to engage with trade associations, governments, sci- keynote address, Arie Kopelman, vice chairman of America for Quest. Thoman also noted that the fra- entific communities and thought leaders — to insure Chanel Inc., said yes: “We are launching far too many fra- grance business continues to boom in developing mar- appropriate action across markets. We have a strong grances and we are cheapening the fragrance industry,” kets such as China, India and Latin America. “There’s model of senior-level leadership participation in Kopelman told the crowd. “We’re all just hoping that still a lot of growth in the world for us,” he said. To that CTFA, and I believe this is a model that we should ex- some of our new products will stick, but we’ve created an end, noted Paul Austin, vice president and general plore in other parts of the world.” insane pace in stores….We are confusing the consumer.” manager of Quest, the company is spreading its top tal- WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005 15

WWD.COM McGrath Compacts Bow As P&G Revs Up Clairol BOCA RATON, Fla. — Wal-Mart and Target will be getting a dash of class this summer, with a color cosmetics ini- Linda tiative that has proven to be a winner in the prestige seg- Marshall ment of the business. of Elysee In July, Cover Girl will introduce Custom Compacts, its Cosimo Nicolas Mirzayantz and Scientific first collection of products to be created with the input of Policastrolicastro Estée Lauder’s Harvey Gedeon. Cosmetics. Michel Mane makeup artist Pat McGrath, who was named Procter & Gamble’s beauty creative design director last September. The compacts introduce the customization concept, long a popular initiative in the prestige market, to mass. “Pat has helped us to immediately develop this cus- tomized line for Target and Wal-Mart,” said Marc Pritchard, president of global retail hair color, cosmetics and personal care for Procter & Gamble’s beauty business- es and the Cosmetics, Toiletry and Fragrance Association’s new chairman. “This is a new type of initiative at mass, and we believe it will be a winning one for our customers. Pat has a real talent for translating runway to realway, and this line is something that illustrates that talent.” Meanwhile, Pritchard also unfurled a plan for what Paul Austin Heidi Manheimer AdAdrianrian Ellis Ann Martin he termed “a renaissance to growth” for the Clairol divi- sion. He also noted that Clairol has signed colorist Brad Andrea Jung, L’Oréal’s Jean-Paul Johns as the division’s global creative color director, be- Agon with Cathy and Dan Brestle. ginning April 1. The McGrath compacts will be available in two op- tions. The bulk of the program comprises starter com- pacts, which will be sold empty for $2.99 each and which will hold up to four magnetized pots of color. To fill them, customers can choose from a range of seven lip glosses, 21 lip colors and 14 eye shadow colors, each priced $3.49. Alternatively, for those who prefer McGrath’s guidance, one pre-made compact — which will contain two best-selling Cover Girl lip shades select- ed by McGrath — will also be sold, for $6.49. The compacts will be sold exclusively in Wal-Mart and Target doors and will be available beginning in July. John Galantic Pritchard, who noted that more Cover Girl/McGrath initiatives will be in stores this fall, didn’t rule out the possibility of one day doing a Pat McGrath-branded line. “I could see it happening eventually,” he told WWD. The McGrath initiatives are just part of Pritchard’s plan to keep Cover Girl’s growth continuing. “The Cover Girl brand continues to grow, and it’s being driven by lots of fresh ideas and more than 10 new introductions a year,” he said, noting that the brand, including Wal-Mart as Kavanaugh Era Ends numbers, is currently in the number one slot at mass. ent among all of its categories, not just fine fragrances. Givaudan’s fragrance division, pointed out that Cover Girl is one of three P&G beauty brands — the For all of the major oil houses, offering a point of Givaudan has been able to continue growing its fra- other two being SK II and Hugo Boss — that are on difference — whether it is proprietary technology lead- grance business by mining new regional markets — like track to become the brand’s next billion dollar beauty ing to a new ingredient or the ability to match up Russia, China and India — and tapping nontraditional businesses, said Pritchard. Each of the three reportedly celebrity or designer initiatives and marketers, for in- end uses, like an increase in fragrance ancillaries. He already does well over $500 million yearly. stance — was a key theme. noted that traditional prestige-priced fine fragrance, as Turning to the new role for Johns, Pritchard said the “As a fragrance house, our job is to service our defined in the department store sense, is becoming a colorist will track U.S. trends and advise Clairol on new clients — whether that’s matching a celebrity to a com- smaller part of the pie in North America and Europe. hair color launches, said Pritchard. Johns operates an pany or coming up with the juice,” said Daniel Kathy Cullin, president, fine fragrance worldwide of eponymous salon at the Avon Salon & Spa and also has Rachmanis, president of fine fragrance Americas for Symrise, added that the celebrity phenomenon isn’t a a line of hair care products that are sold in the salon and Firmenich. His firm has recently hired a director of bad thing, “if the fragrance has a point of difference on avon.com. business development to facilitate the development of and a realness to it.” “Brad will help us add more innovation and inspira- these types of partnerships, he said. While no new celebrity deals were announced at tion to Clairol,” Pritchard said. Michel Mane, president of Mane, noted that his per- CTFA — although Madonna and Sharon Stone rumors One of Pritchard’s goals for Clairol, he said at the con- fumers are working on state-of-the-art computers that halfheartedly circulated, and Isaac Mizrahi is said to ference, is to make hair color “a little closer to makeup.” allow perfumers to “create on the fly.” As well, he said, be working on a fragrance for Target — a few more de- “I’d like to see us develop additional fashion-oriented Mane is working with several fashion designers to cre- tails were revealed on those already out there. items, which will result in a higher incidence of usage ate fragrances that they hope to match with companies Coty said that its Baby Phat by Kimora Lee Simmons, among consumers,” said Pritchard. later this year. coming in September, will be sold through its Lancaster That’s a plan Clairol is already putting into place by And, perhaps most importantly, companies have to be Group U.S. division. It will be targeted at 16- to 24-year- launching promotional hair color collections, he said. willing to step out on a limb to launch a fragrance — olds and will be in a “J.Lo-type” distribution, about Pritchard said that P&G has doubled Clairol’s business rather than launching a me-too version of something ex- 2,000 department store doors, said Eric Thoreux, presi- since acquiring it in November 2001 for an estimated isting. “If you look at the fragrances in the top 10, you’ll dent of Coty Beauty Americas. The scent will have other $4.95 billion, and that the company is looking to double notice that most of them tested badly in the U.S.,” said parallels to Lopez, as VH1 is planning to do a reality its business again. Quest’s Austin, whose firm developed Angel for Thierry show with Simmons — on the order of MTV’s recent P&G has already announced updates to three brands Mugler. “You can’t be afraid to do a polarizing fragrance.” J.Lo special — when the scent is launched this fall. in the Clairol portfolio — Nice ’n Easy, Hydrience and And it appears to be happening. While he wouldn’t “The [Kimora] scent will have an urban-glam mind- Herbal Essences — and will unleash a host of new hair offer specifics on the companies involved, Nicolas set,” said Thoreux, adding that the brand will use the products this month, including Nice ’n Easy Root Touch- Mirzayantz, senior vice president, fine fragrance and Baby Phat and cat logos used on the apparel line. “The Up, priced at $6.99. P&G overhauled Natural Instincts, beauty care for International Flavors and Fragrances, concept is street chic, ghetto-fab, hip-hop haute. a fourth hair color brand, last year, and last fall installed noted that the projects his firm is working on for this Kimora is beautiful, articulate and unapologetic, and Patrice Louvet as general manager, global design and fall have one thing in common — an element of risk this brand is a mix of celebrity, fashion and lifestyle. North America retail hair color for Clairol, after Robert and a strong point of view. IFF logged a strong 2004 We’re expecting great things from it.” A formal launch Matteucci retired from the post of vice president, global with a 13 percent gain in fine fragrance sales, which event will be held at Simmons’ home in May, and retail hair color and professional. Mirzayantz attributed, in part, to a culmination of a Simmons will also do personal appearances for the Industry sources forecast that Clairol brand sales will four-year campaign of fostering team-building and cre- brand at launch. total more than $350 million by year-end 2005. For the ativity within IFF. One aspect of this was the establish- John Galantic, president of Coty Beauty U.S., noted 52-week period ended Dec. 26, Clairol brand sales totaled ment of a more meaningful and effective way of defin- that the Simmons license “leverages new areas” for the $318 million, according to Information Resources Inc. ing and providing a sense of newness. company and “builds upon the explosion of the hip-hop —Julie Naughton Cosimo Policastro, executive vice president for Continued on page 16 16 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005

The HBA Report WWD.COM Prieto Grows Up With New Salon NEW YORK — Salon owner Antonio Prieto is all grown up. After spending nearly a decade working out of his eponymously named salon in Chelsea here, Prieto has opened a new, larger space just a block away at 127 West 20th Street. Located on the ground floor of a turn-of-the-century town house, the new locale has a decided- ly darker, earthy feel, compared to the off-white, red and black color scheme of his first venture.

“With this location, we took it to another level — this represents that I’ve grown PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER up,” he said. “It’s like a natural progression, where you see things differently.” Born and raised in Valencia, Spain, Prieto spent years on the fashion cir- cuit, working for designers including Versace, Calvin Klein and Alexander McQueen and then collaborating on editorial work with such powerhouse photographers as Annie Leibovitz, Bruce Weber and Stephen Klein. After six years in New York, he opened his first salon in 1995. But lately the 1,500-square-foot space was getting a little snug for his ever-expanding client base. “It couldn’t hold everyone,” he said. “We were working six days a week, 12 hours a day just to accommodate our clients.” Designed by architect Derek Sanders of Can Resources (past projects include Los Angeles’ Standard Hotel and New York’s Lure Fishbar and Lever House restaurants) in conjunction with project manager Jason Volenec and interior designer Elizabeth Antonio Prieto Rubin, the 3,000-square-foot space includes a variety of textures. Walls in the main area of the salon were created using slabs of black- The new Antonio Prieto salon. stained wood taken from an old barn, while the reception area is sepa- rated from the main room with a wall of travertine marble. Even the dles and soaps from Red Flower. In addition, the salon features an color scheme is rooted in texture, with a mixture of rich chocolate leather open “color bar” area, where colorists can mix formulas in plain view of captain’s chairs, thick slabs of wood flooring and luminous birch tree-patterned the client. Prieto explained that he wanted, in a way, to expose this often-secre- glass partitions set off by white silk chandeliers, durable Xorel wallpaper and tive process to the client. “I want them to mix everything in front of the client,” he creamy leather-seated lounge areas. said. “I want the client to know that there’s a lot of thinking, experimenting and “I’m very into nature,” said Prieto. “I wanted to have an earthy, organic environ- mixing that goes into it.” ment, something warm but at the same time modern — I want my clients to feel com- While Prieto said that some clients were at first skeptical about the change in loca- fortable and relaxed but still have a modern feel.” tion, they have started to grow accustomed to the newer, more sophisticated version. In fact, the only color-infused area of the salon is courtesy of Kérastase, the up- “You know when you buy a new car and you think you’re going to still use the old scale hair care brand Prieto has been carrying for three years. The salon’s en- one?” he said. “But then it’s like — wow, this is great — and you don’t want to go back.” tranceway features shelves stacked full of the colorful product line, as well as can- — Bryn Kenny

ident, was at the meeting, talking about a new series of Internet consumer surveys, called Topicals. The third study, which taps the opinions of 6,000 consumers, is Pritchard Takes Helm at CTFA now being conducted on the topic of alternative distri- bution — the Internet, direct sellers and TV shopping. Continued from page 15 We’ve put the company into a place where we can When executives weren’t gossiping about the lat- world.” A men’s counterpart is said to be on the draw- support the brands and have enhanced new product est celebrity fragrance rumors, talk turned to the con- ing board. development.” Successful advertising campaigns fea- ference and to CTFA as an organization and how both Sarah Jessica Parker, another recent Coty hire, turing Susan Sarandon, Halle Berry and Julianne should evolve going forward. was characterized “as the next global success master- Moore haven’t hurt, either, he said. In the second “Generally, the direction of CTFA’s agenda is the brand,” said Thoreux. “She’s both glamorous and the half, the company will have a number of new prod- right one,” said Michael McNamara, global president of girl next door,” he said. While he didn’t reveal much ucts to offer, including Color Beam Sheer, a “light-in- , who noted that increasing regulatory is- about the scent itself, Thoreux did note that the fused,” eight-stockkeeping-unit nail polish line sues are among the most important of those on the orga- Simmons and Parker scents will both launch in The company’s division is also making sig- nization’s agenda. “It’s not just happening in California September. As well, he noted, a fourth Jennifer Lopez nificant strides, said Stephanie Peponis, chief market- — all over the world groups are coming together, and as fragrance is expected this fall. ing officer of . Peponis said Almay will launch an industry we have to be prepared to deal with that. There will also be a few new designer fragrances several new products, including a new mascara, and CTFA is helping us to pull together as an industry.” hitting counters this fall. Riviera Concepts will be will continue to use Elaine Irwin Mellencamp as the “CTFA plays an extra important role in regulatory launching Cynthia Rowley’s first fragrance in special- brand’s spokeswoman. “We track our brands on a issues,” said Richard Goldstein, chairman and chief ty store distribution, as well as new juices from Lulu weekly basis and Almay has made great strides.” executive officer of IFF. “They’ve done an exemplary Guinness and Alfred Sung, noted Marg Spasuk, vice Speaking of opportunities, several executives sug- job in defending our industry against things like president of marketing and sales for Riviera gested — particularly in the wake of the recent Proposition 65 [a stringent product-labeling initia- Concepts. And they’re not done yet: “There’s definite- Federated-May merger — that the beauty industry re- tive] in California, and I believe they will continue to ly room for more designers at Riviera Concepts,” said examine its distribution strategies. “Distribution have that type of leadership role going forward.” Adrian Ellis, president of Riviera Concepts, who channels are blurring,” said Thoreux. “The percep- Dan Brestle, chief operating officer of the Estée added that his company will also launch H2, a follow- tion of a brand as ‘prestige’ is no longer driven by Lauder Cos., added that if the industry is to move for- up to its popular Hummer fragrance, this fall. where it is sold, but by the brand itself.” ward as a cohesive unit, focusing on these regulatory is- On the mass side, Coty will place a major emphasis That’s a point that E. Scott Beattie, chairman and sues must be a key priority for CTFA. While Kavanaugh on this fall, expanding the brand into 10,000 ceo of Elizabeth Arden, enthusiastically picked up. and Jung have made a good start, “We need to continue North American drugstores, Thoreux said. “We’re Although the brand’s best-selling Britney Spears fra- to forge strong relationships with our counterparts in aiming to make it the MAC of mass,” said Galantic. grance, launched last fall, rolled out in department other countries — COLIPA, CCTFA [Canadian A delegation from — led by Toshio Negami, stores, it was marketed non-traditionally. “When we Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Assoc.] and others,” chairman and chief executive officer of Shiseido launched Britney Spears [last fall] we made a con- Brestle said. “We can no longer assume that what hap- Cosmetics (America) Ltd.and Heidi Manheimer, presi- scious decision to go where the customers were,” said pens in the U.S. will fly around the world.” dent of U.S. operations — discussed plans for upcoming Beattie, noting that the company employed interactive Maggie Ciafardini, ceo and managing director, YSL launches, including Lifting Foundation, Future Web site banners, e-mail blasts, text messages and Beauté Inc., said, “I think it would be very timely to Solution Lip and Eye and White Lucent. voice-mail messages from Spears, among other initia- see a proactive new positive p.r. campaign for the cos- At the conference, announced that it tives. A second Spears fragrance is said to be on tap. metics and fragrance industry. We are hearing about has named James Ward, formerly head of the compa- “The prestige department store market is stagnat- the ‘negatives’ regarding cosmetics and really, there ny’s Australian business, to the post of chief marketing ing,” added Firmenich’s Rachmanis. “Mass, specialty are multiple benefits that need to be communicated. officer. Bonne Bell also unveiled several new product stores and direct sellers are growing. We have to be A strong positive campaign communicated throughout initiatives, including eye shadow palettes, a mascara open to where the market is going.” the U.S., and eventually worldwide, would counteract and new lip glosses and lip balms, all priced under $5. In light of these changes, said Eric Horowitz, presi- the negativity.” The company promoted its popular Lip Smackers line, dent of the brand division of Clarins Groupe Former New York City Mayor Rudy Giuliani also which turns over about 20 percent a year, said USA, “It’s more important than ever to build strong re- delivered a rousing keynote address on how to lead Laurianne Murphy, a spokeswoman for the brand. lationships and make sure you’ve got the best possible during a crisis and on how to be an effective leader Revlon, which reported its first positive numbers assortment at counter. The world is rapidly changing, in general. The qualities necessary, he said, in- in six years earlier this week, plans to continue to but if you build the right relationships with your con- clude having the courage to be an effective leader, build on that growth going forward, noted Jack Stahl, sumers, she’ll find you — no matter where you are.” being an optimist, learning from others and “relent- president and chief executive officer of Revlon. He That comment dovetailed with a new initiative re- lessly preparing.” said that “2004 was a significant year for Revlon. cently showcased by NPD Beauty. Timra Carlson, pres- — Julie Naughton and Pete Born BEAUTYBIZ PHOTO BY DAN BIBB WWD May Issue

Save Does your latest scent pass the sniff test? the Get in on the issue that decision-makers across Date every channel of distribution use to freshen Issue Date: up their fall fragrance counters. May 6 A Closer Look: Spa Close: The It List: Hair and Makeup Artists March 28

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contributed a portfolio of her own photographs of subjects including Queen Noor, Christiane Amanpour and MEMO PAD Ann Richards, who was also at the party. Bad Circulation Bug Wearing “an old Prada dress,” Ryan said she’d been taking pictures “a really long time — but I still claim my BATTLE OF THE EXES: Clearly, GQ readers know where novice status.” Has spending so much time on the other they stand on the Kate Bosworth-Orlando Bloom split. side of the lens given her any special insight into the All three issues of the magazine in the first quarter of Starting to Spread discipline? “Strangely, I did shout things out during 2005 appear to be down against exceptionally strong photo shoots that I had no idea I knew, like ‘Somebody sellers in the previous year, according to early scan data put a scrim in front of that HMI!’ But I had no idea I By Jeff Bercovici from Source Interlink, a company that tracks single- knew that.” — Jeff Bercovici copy sales at major NEW YORK — It turns out Gruner + Jahr isn’t the only publisher with circulation problems after all. retailers in real time. SCHWARTZ STOP: By day, Gil Schwartz is the executive But the January issue, When G+J revealed in January that large por- vice president of communications at CBS. (He was one tions of most of its magazines’ subscriber rolls had with Bosworth on the of the few level heads at the network to push for cover, seems to have been disqualified by auditors, the company’s history additional reporting immediately following the “60 of circulation shenanigans made it easy to believe it had the most Minutes” memogate scandal.) By night, he writes precipitous falloff. was just more of the same. G+J sympathizers, how- magazine articles under the pseudonym Stanley Bing, ever, insisted the publisher was merely patient zero Source Interlink has a moonlighting gig he’s held since 1984 when he newsstand sales for in what would turn out to be a wider outbreak. began penning a regular business column for Esquire. Now the evidence is beginning to suggest the that issue declining More recently, Schwartz has been writing under his sympathizers might be right. somewhere between At a meeting last week, the board of the Audit 40 to 50 percent from Bureau of Circulations voted to censure EBSCO the previous January, Consumer Marketing Services for improper record- GQ’s bestseller of keeping. EBSCO is one of the country’s largest sub- 2004, which featured scription agents, serving major publishers including Bosworth’s ex, Time Inc., Hachette Filipacchi Media and Condé Orlando Bloom. Nast Publications (a unit of Advance Publications Newsstand sales of Inc., parent of WWD). the Bloom cover were ABC president Michael Lavery declined to com- up 63.6 percent on ment further on the reason for the censure, but a January 2003. consumer marketing director said EBSCO was Meanwhile, this found to be categorizing sponsored subscriptions in- year’s March issue, correctly, labeling them as individually paid at the also down from last request of publishers. “If a publisher said, ‘Can you year, is still on do this?’ they would do it,” said the source. newsstands for another It was a similar arrangement that led to Synapse, five days and should a subscription agent owned by Time Warner, being be helped along by censured by ABC last summer, in a move connected editor in chief Jim to ABC’s decision to reclassify 20 percent of PC Magazine’s subscription file as unpaid. ABC’s board Nelson’s Thursday voted to lift the sanctions on Synapse at last week’s morning appearance meeting, approving the “corrective actions” since on “The Today Show,” Michael Grossman and Andrew Essex taken by the agent. where he discussed Several circulation experts said they believed current GQ cover given name, as well. “Every now and then, Schwartz the EBSCO revelations would lead to more maga- subject and onetime Al-Qaeda target Russell Crowe. wants a byline,” he explained, speaking in the third zines having portions of their circulation claims dis- A spokeswoman for the magazine, which, like WWD, person to keep his identities straight. “Why should allowed. Spokespeople for Time Inc. and Hachette is part of Advance Publications Inc., said, “Condé Nast Bing get all the invitations to restaurants and parties?” both said their companies do not participate in the doesn’t release or comment on estimates. It’s premature While Bing currently writes for the back page of programs that resulted in EBSCO’s censure, while a for us to talk about magazines in the first quarter, based Fortune, Schwartz’s byline can be found in Best Life, spokeswoman for Condé Nast declined to comment. on limited retail data.” — Sara James Men’s Health and the new publication Absolute, where In another sign of possible trouble, Lavery re- vealed that the 2003 audits of 17 magazines have yet he’ll be writing about food. LEARNING BY OSMOSIS: She may not be America’s to be completed more than 14 months after the fact, Too bad he didn’t make it to Absolute’s launch party despite ABC’s stated goal of reducing audit times to sweetheart anymore, but Meg Ryan’s becoming more at the Time Warner center on Tuesday, where the multifaceted with age. Ryan was the guest of honor at a six months. “They’re being held up while ABC canapes and cocktails would surely have met his awaits documentation from agents providing infor- party hosted by Glamour Wednesday night, where Iman, approval — they were catered by Per Se. The evening’s Nicole Miller, actress Michelle Trachtenberg and Counting mation with respect to subscription order payment,” chatter, however, revolved less around the truffled said Lavery. “There are a fair number of them open Crows singer Adam Duritz also mingled. Ryan appeared popcorn and tuna cones than around the swaying of the on the cover of Glamour’s April issue, and also with respect to June 2004 for the same matter.” building, which was quite perceptible on the 79th floor It was a lack of documentation that led to the dis- on a windy night. “I thought maybe I’d had too much to qualifications at G+J, which resulted in five of the drink,” said Caroline Miller, Absolute’s editorial director. company’s six titles missing their circulation guar- “Then I realized it was the floor moving.” — S.J. antees in 2004. In that case, the agent responsible for the unverified subscription orders was MILKING THE SERIAL: Former Tuleh designer-turned-style Publishers Communications Systems, a smaller writer Josh Patner delivers the second of four installments agent that has not been censured by ABC. G+J has of his saga, “Cassandra’s Online Adventure,” in the new sued PCS for fraud and breach of contract over the issue of the Bergdorf Goodman magazine this week. And dispute. PCS filed a motion to dismiss some of the while it’s slightly more coherent than his first Cassandra suit’s claims on Feb. 28, and G+J has yet to respond. story, the fictional heroine continues to suffer from some In a move clearly intended to call to mind G+J’s sort of a cross between attention deficit disorder and a history of circulation problems, a PCS spokeswoman compulsive shopping habit. said Thursday that the subscription agent had re- tained Lorna Schofield as a legal consultant on the “She has shadings of some early Tuleh clients,” suit. Schofield, of the New York law firm Debevoise Patner said via e-mail from Rome, where he’s now & Plimpton, represented Rosie O’Donnell in her based. “Her moods seem to mirror my own,” he 2003 law suit against G+J, a suit that hinged on alle- added. “She was a spontaneous combustion in that gations that the publisher intentionally misreported respect.” — S.J. and J.B. the circulation of Rosie magazine. After the conflict between G+J and PCS went THAT’S A RAP: Whatever else may be true of The Source, public in January, Chip Block, vice chairman of the as an employer, it offers plenty of opportunity for career subscription agency USA Pubs, predicted other pub- advancement, what with people regularly quitting or lishers would experience similar difficulties with being dismissed. The latest out of the hip-hop their audits. “This is not just a G+J problem,” he magazine’s door are editor in chief Kim Osorio and told WWD. managing editor Adila Francis, who left this week — In a sign of how sensitive the circulation issue is according to one source with close ties to the magazine, for much of the industry, several magazine company at the request of David Mays, the company’s chief executives subsequently called Block and threat- executive officer. The new editor in chief is Joshua ened to withdraw their business from USA Pubs if “Fahiym” Ratcliffe, formerly deputy editor. Meanwhile, he made similar comments again, according to two sources. Asked about the threats, Block declined to Meg Ryan The Source still has not filed a circulation claim for the comment. PHOTO BY JAMES DEVANEY/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY second half of 2004. — J.B. 12/4 HOLIDAY T 9/18 MEN’S FASHION T 8/28 WOMEN’S FASHION T 5/1,11/6 LIVING T 4/3, 10/9 DESIGN T 3/20, 5/15, 9/25, 11/20 TRAVEL T STILL TO COME IN 2005: A new generation of luxury lifestyle magazines with the confidence and authority of .

ISSUE DATE: Sunday, March 13. ADVERTISERS: Call now to become a part of this stunning success story. Thirteen perfect-bound issues throughout 2005. Contact your account representative or Seth Rogin, Group Director at (212) 556-1437 or log on to www.nytadvertising.com. 20 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005 WWD.COM Urban Outfitters Net Surges 72.2% Continued from page one sions have reached maturity, which sets year in the company’s history,” said the stage for a great deal of future organ- Urban chairman and president Richard ic growth.” Hayne on a post-earnings conference call Because Urban has a relatively small with investors and analysts. store base versus its peers, that growth po- But that doesn’t mean Urban is resting tential is considerable, analysts say. Urban on its laurels. The 25-year-old specialty currently operates 75 Urban Outfitters retailer is ramping up sales by better stores, 65 Anthropologie units and two serving its core demographic as well as Free People locations, in addition to its reaching new consumers via stores in wholesale operations that sell to more shopping malls, historically nontradi- than 1,100 specialty stores, department tional locales for the company. stores and catalogues. Telsey, who has a Urban, which operates the Urban Outfit- “peer perform” rating on Urban shares, ters, Anthropologie and Free People thinks the company could eventually brands, plans to add 30 to 32 stores in 2005 reach 150 to 200 Urban stores, 200 to 300 — on top of the 28 opened in 2004 — as well Anthropologie stores and more than 30 as open a new distribution center in South Free People stores. Carolina, which is planned to be four times Regarding plans to boost its acces- larger than its existing one. Furthermore, sories offering, the company said on the above-average sales productivity at its call that it will be testing a second roughly 20 mall-based stores is contributing Anthropologie accessories catalogue in to the firm’s belief that a mix of mall-based the early fall and will test additional ac- and on-street locations is the right combi- cessories ideas in the beginning of 2006. nation for continued momentum. “I like what [accessories] does to the Meanwhile, the company also is fo- brand. It really helps to define product, cused on making accessories a bigger part The interior of and it helps to create the Anthropologie of its overall business, beefing up Web site- Urban Outfitters in aesthetic and point of difference in the specific merchandise offerings and ex- Santa Monica, Calif. customer’s mind,” said Glen Senk, presi- panding its profitable Free People whole- dent of Anthropologie, on the conference sale business, which experienced a sales cents, a year ago. Analysts had been calling Looking to this year, the company sees call. The company already has released increase of 100 percent in the quarter. The for a profit of 37 cents. The company is re- revenues increasing by 20 to 25 percent. It one Anthropologie accessories catalogue. retailer is looking to open three more viewing the way it previously has account- also expects to grow same-store sales by 3 “Accessories is definitely the trend out stand-alone Free People shops, which is in ed for store leases, but said it does not ex- to 4 percent, noting, however, that over the there,” said Monica Brisnehan, senior re- addition to store-within-store formats al- pect any possible adjustments to have a past six years, comps have risen an aver- search analyst at RBC Capital Markets. ready in place at several Bloomingdale’s significant impact on prior earnings. age of 9 percent. Already, the company said Retailers “are looking for ways to in- and Nordstrom stores. Total quarterly sales were $251.6 mil- comps in February were ahead of that av- crease their dollar per square foot of Urban’s robust spike in fourth-quarter lion, up from $176.1 million last year. By di- erage 9 percent increase, giving analysts an stores and that’s clearly the right way,” earnings was on top of same-store sales vision, sales at Urban Outfitters stores rose increasingly positive view on the company. she said in an interview. That’s because, in the period that advanced 13 percent, 34.4 percent to $112.2 million, while sales “Unlike many other specialty apparel as Senk mentioned on the call, acces- including a 58 percent surge in comps at at Anthropologie stores were $98.8 million, retailers that develop a core segment, sories categories turn quickly, thereby in- Free People. Hayne said women’s appar- up 42.3 percent. Direct-to-consumer sales then create a new concept when saturat- creasing productivity. el and accessories had the biggest comp- increased 69.5 percent to $33.4 million, ed, Urban Outfitters has built a complex In the full year, Urban earned $95.2 mil- store sales increases in the quarter. while sales of its Free People brand were business platform of three brands as well lion, or $1.14 a diluted share, which beat For the three months ended Jan. 31, the $7.1 million, up 106.4 percent. as a direct-to-consumer business,” wrote analysts’ estimates by a penny. That com- Philadelphia-based company posted a Gross profit margin as a percentage of Bear Stearns analyst Dana Telsey in a pared with $48.4 million, or 60 cents, the profit of $31.7 million, or 38 cents a diluted sales climbed to 43 percent in the fourth March 7 research report initiating cover- prior year. Total sales were $827.8 million share, compared with $18.4 million, or 22 quarter from 41.5 percent last year. age of the retailer. “None of these divi- in 2004, up 50.9 percent. Regional Retailers Rise on New Mix By Vicki M. Young $51.2 million, or 61 cents, in the eliminating underperforming diluted share, from $24.4 million, For the three months, Green same year-ago quarter. Soaring lines. Dillard’s said it will use in- or $1.52, a year ago while retail Bay, Wis.-based ShopKo Stores NEW YORK — For some of the re- profits were mostly from an after- formation technology capabili- sales gained 2.6 percent to $463.3 Inc. posted a 12.3 percent jump gional retailers such as Dillard’s tax gain of $53.7 million in con- ties to tailor the assortments to million from $451.8 million. in income to $35.4 million, or and Bon-Ton Stores, the fourth nection with the retailer’s sale of local demographics. So far, ex- Byron Bergren, president and $1.19 a diluted share, from $31.6 quarter of 2004 was spent on fine- its private label credit card busi- clusive brand merchandise has ceo, said in a conference call to million, or $1.07, in the year-ago tuning merchandise mixes as a ness to GE Consumer Finance for gained slightly as a percentage of Wall Street that sales of misses’ quarter. Total revenues fell by 4.4 way to differentiate themselves in $1.1 billion. The quarter also in- sales, reaching 23.1 percent in and women’s sportswear as well percent to $913 million from $956 the market. Based on quarterly cluded an $8.6 million aftertax im- 2004 from 20.9 percent in 2003. It as fashion accessories did well million, which included a 4.5 per- results of these companies Thurs- pairment charge. The prior year’s plans to open eight more stores in the quarter. cent decline in sales to $909.6 day, most succeeded. quarter included $11.3 million af- and replace one store in 2005. Regarding differentiation, million from $952.9 million. Meanwhile, specialty retailers tertax asset impairment charges Analyst Bob Buchanan of A.G. Bergren said, “We want to be ShopKo said separately that kept up their dizzying pace of de- as well. Sales were essentially flat Edwards & Sons Inc. said in a re- known for our cosmetic business, it will spend up to $60 million in livering robust sales and earnings. at $2.3 billion. search note Thursday that gross our home business and women’s capital expenditures for fiscal After the bell, for example, apparel. Our goal in most of our 2005, which will be used in part Aeropostale Inc. said net income markets is to have 40 percent or for 16 ShopKo remodels, 35 in the quarter ended Jan. 29 Our goal in most of our markets is 50 percent of our product that is Pamida remodels and eight new soared 28.4 percent to $35.3 mil- “ different. Brands that you won’t Pamida locations. lion, or 62 cents a diluted share, to have 40 percent or 50 percent of find elsewhere in the competi- Sam Duncan, president and from $27.5 million, or 47 cents, in our product that is different. tion: Nine West; ; ceo, said during a conference the prior year, on sales that rose Liz Claiborne; Izod; Dooney & call: “I am delighted to see that 20 percent to $327.1 million from — Byron Bergren, The Bon-Ton” Stores Inc. Bourke, and others. We also want our women’s apparel business is $272.6 million. to continue to profitably develop gaining traction. Last year, we im- Julian Geiger, chairman and Management at Dillard’s reit- margin rates at Dillard’s have private label as a differentiator.” proved the assortment by balanc- chief executive officer, said the erated its “strong belief that mer- now improved for five quarters Private label in 2004 account- ing our selection by age, lifestyle firm’s “continued focus on gross chandise differentiation with spe- straight, reflecting tighter inven- ed for 13 percent of sales at the and fit.” margin improvement and operat- cial emphasis on becoming a tory controls. retailer. For fiscal 2004, income For the full year, income ing margin expansion enabled us more upscale retailer” is crucial For the 52 weeks ended Jan. fell by 2.1 percent to $20.2 mil- gained 10.8 percent to $43.3 mil- to translate our 20 percent gain in to the retailer’s success. “The 29, income was $117.6 million, or lion, or $1.24 a diluted share, lion, or $1.46 a diluted share, sales into a significantly higher company seeks to build and main- $1.41 a share, up from $9.3 mil- from $20.6 million, or $1.33, in fis- from $39.1 million, or $1.33, in increase in earnings per share.” tain customer loyalty by present- lion, or 11 cents, a year ago while cal 2003. Sales gained 41.4 per- fiscal year 2003. Total revenues In the department store sector, ing more exciting fashion choices sales dipped 0.9 percent to $7.53 cent to $1.31 billion from $926.4 decreased by 1.9 percent to $3.18 Dillard’s Inc. said for the three reflective of a younger-focused billion from $7.6 billion. million. The jump in sales in 2004 billion from $3.2 billion, while months ended Jan. 29, income and more upscale attitude,” the The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. post- included the $607 million contri- sales were down slightly by 0.5 swelled 112 percent to $108.6 mil- retailer said in a statement. ed a 10.1 percent gain in net in- bution from Bon-Ton’s acquisition percent to $3.17 billion from lion, or $1.30 a diluted share, from The company has also been come to $26.8 million, or $1.65 a of Elder-Beerman Stores. $3.18 billion. WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005 21 WWD.COM Bear Stearns Takes Stake in Seven A&F: Bolstered for Upmarket Push By Sharon Edelson Tom’s understanding of the luxury mar- By Vicki M. Young and Seven was formed in 2000 by Jerome ket is of great value to this business. We Nola Sarkisian-Miller Dahan and Michael Glasser. They ap- NEW YORK — As it strives to be more continue to push this brand forward in proached Koral for financing. Dahan was aspirational, Abercrombie & Fitch is an aspirational sort of way. We think we NEW YORK — Seven For All Mankind has the designer of the line, and Glasser was raising prices, upgrading quality and need to take it upmarket.” a new financial partner, Bear Stearns head of sales. bolstering its ranks with leaders who Another Gucci alumnus, Bob Singer, Merchant Banking, people familiar with People in the investment community have luxury on their résumés. the Italian firm’s former chief financial the deal said. familiar with the Seven-Koral arrange- The company, which courts college officer, became Abercrombie’s chief Seven, still largely a women’s denim ment said that the parties agreed to oper- students with sweatshirts and jeans, operating officer in November. line, was part of L’Koral Inc., a Los ate Seven under L’Koral’s umbrella until wants to be seen as the Rolls-Royce of Unlike other vertical retailers, Angeles-based private label knitwear firm the Seven business reached a certain level retailers for the campus set. Abercrombie doesn’t have division headed by Peter Koral. In a recapitaliza- in annual volume, after which Seven The brand is working to reduce the presidents for any of its brands. tion of the Seven business that closed might become a separate entity from promotional sale component of its busi- Merchants from different businesses within the week, Bear Stearns Merchant L’ K oral. That separation never happened. ness and has raised price points by dou- report to chief executive officer Mike Banking is now a 50 percent partner in the Dahan and Glasser left the company in ble digits. Fabrics such as cashmere and Jeffries, a hands-on leader who relish- business and Koral is chairman of the new 2002 and started the denim brand Citizens high-quality denim are de rigueur. For es being in the fashion trenches. This company, the people close to the agree- of Humanity. Glasser in September 2004 example, the spring catalogue features has allowed merchants to concentrate ment said. The amount of the stake was sold his 39 percent stake in the Citizen’s Ezra Fitch cotton and spandex premium on specific parts of the business. not immediately known. business to Dahan. denim with a low rise and boot leg for To capitalize on their expertise, Bear Stearns Merchant Banking is the The founders became embroiled in a $148 and Ezra Fitch’s cashmere hand- the company has realigned parts of its private equity arm of investment firm dispute with Koral over the partnership, crafted cardigan with rhinestone ap- merchandising team. Rather than Bear, Stearns & Co. Neither executives at and a lawsuit was filed in December 2002 pliqué and a shrunken fit for $170. working within a particular brand, the merchant banking group nor Koral in Los Angeles Superior Court. A judge in A&F is growing the Ezra Fitch por- several merchants have been chosen could be reached for comment. September 2004 ruled that Dahan and tion of its overall assortment in lead- to lead classifications such as denim A financier familiar with Seven’s busi- Glasser were entitled to $50 million for ing fashion markets such as New York and outerwear. They are responsible ness said wholesale sales in 2004 were their 50 percent stake in Seven, and that and Los Angeles. In key cities, Ezra for those businesses across each of $200 million. Seven has a small but grow- they also should receive $5.5 million in Fitch will account for 10 percent of a the company’s brands. The idea is to ing men’s business and a Seven tops line profits for 2001 and 2002. store’s assortment, up from 5 percent, leverage and exploit their knowledge. that is about to be launched. Bear Stearns’ recapitalization deal fol- a spokesman said. In another personnel development, “Seven is an incredibly great fran- lowed a settlement Koral paid in January, It has even put in motion plans to Chad Kessler, who headed up and chise,’’ an investment banker said. “It also ending a two-year court battle with his for- open a 34,000-square-foot flagship on began the Hollister division of has an international business that is nas- mer partners. Fifth Avenue at 56th Street in the for- Abercrombie & Fitch in 2000, has cent, but growing quickly.” Koral had been shopping Seven for sev- mer Fendi space. moved to Ruehl as vice president of The banker, who spoke on condition of eral months, trying to decide whether to The company hopes to learn from merchandising for women’s and men’s. anonymity, said Seven has huge potential sell the business outright or find another Tom Mendenhall, senior vice presi- No replacement is being sought for for growth as well as expansion into the financial partner to grow the brand, peo- dent and general manager of A&F, Kessler at Hollister. The development nondenim apparel categories. “Seven is ple in the financial community said. how to approach the business from a follows the departure of Carole Kerner, what it is because it looks better and fits Buxbaum Group, Koral’s financial adviser, luxury perspective. Mendenhall left Ruehl’s senior vice president and gen- better [than the competition]. Seven has was said to have been trying to sell the Gucci, where he was worldwide mer- eral merchandise manager, who will changed the perception…of premium- line to bigger conglomerates such as Liz chandising director, last year. join Donna Karan International on price denim,” he said. Claiborne Inc. and Jones Apparel Group. “We continue to take this brand up- March 23 as president of the Donna market,” the spokesman said. “Clearly, Karan New York collection.

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Special thanks to EX•TRACTS® exhibitors: European Soaps, Ltd.; Essence of Vali; and Fruits & Passion. © George Little Management, LLC 2004 22 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005 WWD.COM Senate Passes Nordstrom in Prime for Atlanta By Georgia Lee Nordstrom said. Anchored by Saks Fifth Avenue and Parisian, ATLANTA — Nordstrom, with a prime location and surrounded by tenants such as Gucci, Tiffany Bankruptcy Bill opening Friday on Atlanta’s luxury retail hot corner, & Co. and Barneys Co-op, Phipps Plaza is across is on the prowl for sensible growth opportunities. from Lenox Square, home to Atlanta’s only By Joanna Ramey The Seattle-based retailer appears ready to go Bloomingdale’s, along with Macy’s, Neiman head-to-head here with the high end — Neiman Marcus, among other high-end specialty stores. WASHINGTON — The U.S. Senate on Thursday passed legislation Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue — as well as with Both centers are owned by Simon Properties. sought by department stores and credit card companies that Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. The new location allows Nordstrom to be a true would overhaul bankruptcy laws for the first time in 27 years. Nordstrom’s newest store and third in Atlanta is competitor in Atlanta’s designer apparel scene, The measure is likely to be approved by the House, and in a former Lord & Taylor. It is a 135,000-square- Nordstrom said. Atlanta, a metropolitan region of President Bush has promised to sign it. foot space at Phipps Plaza in the upscale Buckhead about four million people, could handle more The legislation requires more people filing for bankruptcy to neighborhood, and could be a por- Nordstrom stores, though no im- repay at least a portion of their debt. It creates an income-based test tent of future growth in the after- mediate openings are planned. that excludes living expenses, but includes child support in deter- math of the Federated De- “We’re going for it with a con- mining an individual’s ability to repay. The test would generally bar partment Stores Inc. acquisition centrated effort to up the ante,” from Chapter 7 a debtor whose adjusted monthly income is more of May Department Stores Co., Nordstrom said of the push to than 25 percent of their unsecured claims or $6,000, whichever is said Pete Nordstrom, president of compete for the designer clien- greater. Thousands of bankruptcy filers are expected to be affected. full-line stores, during a pre- tele. “We’re not underestimating The measure, which passed 74 to 25, also had some benefits for opening gala at Nordstrom’s on this customer.” shopping mall owners and was criticized by some Democrats and Wednesday night. Nordstrom will feature lines in consumer advocates. It would take effect six months after being “There’s likely to be some re- Atlanta including Escada, Michael signed by the President. dundancy is some markets Kors, Proenza Schouler, Valentino “Some of these bankruptcies have been occurring among (where May Co. stores are locat- Roma, Burberry, Chloé and Ro- those who clearly have an ability to repay,” said Katherine Lugar, ed),” Nordstrom said. “We could land Mouret, and add designer the National Retail Federation’s vice president of legislative and take advantage of growth oppor- shoes such as Michael Kors, political affairs. tunity, but we’re not out to grow Sigerson Morrison and Vera Wang. Lugar said merchants pass along the cost of absorbing bad just for growth’s sake. We have to New men’s lines include Façon- debt at the rate of $550 a year per household. The number of peo- maintain quality and value.” nable, Duchamp, Ted Baker, Le Pete Nordstrom, store manager ple seeking to wipe out debts in bankruptcy has more than dou- Nordstrom said the chain Pete Nordstrom, store manager Tigre and Ben Sherman. Vicki Price and Eric Nordstrom. bled to 1.6 million a year in the last 10 years. would compete not only on serv- Vicki Price and Eric Nordstrom. The designer focus was evi- “There has been an explosion of bankruptcies,” said Sen. ice, its strong suit, but also on the breadth of as- dent in two high-energy fashion shows Charles Grassley (R., Iowa), the bill’s key sponsor. sortments, which he contended were stronger Wednesday night in a tent outside the store. The Opponents said the number of new personal bankruptcy fil- than those of Neiman Marcus and Saks. shows included spring collections from ings declined slightly last year, and about half of those filing con- “We compete with Macy’s, and on up to Neiman Blumarine, Carmen Marc Valvo, Chloé, Lela tinue to be saddled by health care bills. They also said multiple Marcus,” he said. “We have to emphasize service, Rose, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Proenza and compounding credit card fees for late or delinquent pay- but also emphasize product offerings and keep Schouler, Roberto Cavalli, Roland Mouret, Tracy ments were central to bankruptcy filings by lower and middle-in- them distinctive. We can’t become cookie-cutter.” Reese and Temperley. come people. Sen. Edward Kennedy (D., Mass.), derided the bill The retailer’s two other Atlanta stores, in The event, which raised around $150,000 for local for its “entire lack of balance and fairness.” Perimeter Mall and The Mall of Georgia, are both charities, was attended by about 1,200 people, in- The measure benefits merchants by increasing the limit on in areas farther north of the city with more subur- cluding Atlanta Mayor Shirley Franklin and Andrew purchases of luxury goods or services that can be shielded in ban customer demographics. The Phipps Plaza Young, a former mayor and U.N. ambassador, who bankruptcy. The bill would also make it easier for retailers to ap- location is “where we’ve wanted to be for years,” bought dressy clothes for his six grandchildren. proach debtors in bankruptcy with so-called reaffirmation agree- ments that allow them to keep merchandise bought on credit by The women’s department. renegotiating payment schedules. The bankruptcy rule changes might crimp the plans of retail- ers who themselves file for protection from their creditors. The measure sets a 120-day deadline for bankrupt tenants in shop- ping malls to decide whether they will terminate their lease, and it can be extended one time for 90 days. While tenants now have 60 days to decide about their store occupancy plans, a judge may extend the period indefinitely. “This provision makes it more difficult to determine whether a reorganization plan is going to work,” said Mallory Duncan, the NRF’s senior vice president and general counsel. Shopping mall owners argued a more defined period for a re- tailer to decide whether to abandon a lease was needed. Another shopping mall provision in the bill would bar a retailer in bank- ruptcy from subletting a space to a tenant that doesn’t match the mix of tenants in a center. House Majority Leader Tom DeLay (R., Tex.) has said the bill will be quickly decided in the House, where passage is considered certain. Bush said in a statement that he will sign the bill, which would mark his second legislative victory of his second term after a measure passed last month making it more difficult to bring class action lawsuits. PHOTOS BY PETER ORIGLIO PHOTOS BY

and unacceptable if a third party attempts to interfere with our ability even in a sin- gle location, and we’re going to vigorously LVMH Vows ‘Vigorous Defense’ Against Coach enforce our rights. “Now the Japanese Fair Trade By Miles Socha gions with cheap labor.” While LVMH executives, up to and in- Commission will conduct its own inde- Reading from a prepared statement, an cluding chairman Bernard Arnault, are pendent investigation. We believe it will PARIS — Coach may need a referee in LVMH spokesman said it has “no informa- said to have long admired the financial take several months. And regardless of its looming gloves-off battle with LVMH tion” about the Coach action beyond what success of Coach, they also look down the outcome, we’re confident as a broad- Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. has appeared in press reports Thursday. their noses at Chinese manufacturing. based multichannel, multinational busi- On Thursday, the French luxury giant However, he said the commercial Louis Vuitton’s leather goods proudly ness that we will continue to deliver ex- said that it would “vigorously defend it- practices of LVMH — which has been bear a “Made in France” label, despite ceptional results. This is a matter for us, self, if necessary” against a complaint present in Japan for more than 40 years the high wages and social costs here. mainly, of principle and no play.” Coach filed with the Japanese Fair Trade — have “never been criticized in any way Coach officials declined comment As reported, specifics of the com- Commission alleging LVMH engaged in whatsoever. Indeed, they are regularly Thursday. However, Lew Frankfort, chair- plaint, filed earlier this week in Tokyo, harassing and anticompetitive behavior praised.” man and chief executive officer, while have not been made public, but Coach to stymie Coach’s expansion within de- He added that “LVMH enjoys excel- speaking at the Bear Stearns Retail, said LVMH threatened department partment stores in Japan. lent relations with a wide variety of busi- Restaurants & Apparel Conference on stores in Japan with pulling Vuitton out What’s more, LVMH said it “can only nesses and partners in Japan which have Thursday, said, “We’re just looking for fair of certain locations if the retailers al- question the motivation of the firm that brought great satisfaction to its clients in play in the marketplace. We at Coach run lowed Coach to open or expand shops. filed this complaint, which is known to that market, one that is particularly de- our business as if it’s a small business with — With contributions from manufacture most of its products in re- manding of high-quality products.” very large sales and we find it offensive Marc Karimzadeh, New York WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 11, 2005 23 WWD.COM

I’M A BARBIE GIRL: Cynthia Rowley brought her SFA’s Decentralizing Leads to Hardin Exit Fashion Scoops daughters Kit and six-week old Gigi to FAO Schwarz Wednesday night for the signing of By David Moin which has 10 offices for store operations. her new Barbie doll. “My life has come full circle,” Rowley said. “I’ve loved Barbie For the past six years, Hardin supervised the since I was a little girl.” To the little girls who were seemingly everywhere at the NEW YORK — Saks Fifth Avenue is decentral- 16-unit Texas-Midwest region. Before that, she event, Rowley couldn’t hold a candle to Barbie, candy and a fancy party. One kept izing store management, leading to executive was vice president and director of merchandis- tugging on Rowley’s skirt saying, “Hey, Kit’s mom, when’s the party?” To which a changes. ing women’s ready-to-wear at the Fifth Avenue bubbly Rowley answered, “You’re at it!” Before making her entrance to FAO’s doll Teri Hardin, a 20-year veteran of Saks Fifth flagship for three years. She began her career as menagerie, Rowley and her posse (including boyfriend, nanny, a real-life Barbie, and Avenue who held the title of senior vice presi- a buyer for the former Sanger Harris chain in Alan Cumming) posed her children on the store’s enormous stuffed animals for a dent and regional stores director, has left the Texas, joined Saks in San Antonio as an assistant private photo-op. Clingers to youth and fashion fear not, Barbie’s white leather tote company. She is being succeeded by Kenzel store manager, and served as a general manager is being made in an adult version by Cynthia Rowley’s handbag licensor Franchi. Wilson, former vice president and U.S. brand in various locations, including Short Hills, N.J.; manager of Façonnable. Tyson’s Corner, Va., and Chevy Chase, Md. PLUS-SIZE PARADE: It’s not unusual to find celebrities dotting fashion shows, but it is Hardin said she departed because she did Before working with Façonnable, the French extraordinary to find them lighting up a presentation of plus-size fashion, as they will not want to be transferred to Chicago, where the brand that in the U.S. is owned by Nordstrom, today when designer Abby Zeichner presents the spring collection of her eight-month-old Texas-Midwest region will be based, as part of Wilson was a Nordstrom vice president and re- Abby Z brand at Lord & Taylor. Model Khalia Ali, daughter of Muhammed Ali; author- the decentralization process. “Personal priori- gional manager covering the state of comedienne Wendy Shanker, and Emme, among others, are slated to appear at Zeichner’s ties require that I stay in the New York local Washington with responsibility for $550 million show. The event will be staged on the ninth floor of Lord & Taylor’s Fifth Avenue flagship, area, and I have decided to leave Saks Fifth in annual sales in nine locations. He was previ- where the store’s plus-size lines typically draw a 35-and-older, career-oriented customer, Avenue after 20 years to continue to pursue my ously a store manager for the Seattle flagship. said LaVelle Olexa, Lord & Taylor’s senior vice president of fashion merchandising. career and managerial objectives,” Hardin said. Saks Fifth Avenue’s West Coast regional store In its short life, Abby Z has been donned by such plus-size celebrities as Queen The regional store management has been group has been shifted to the Beverly Hills store, Latifah, Star Jones, Carnie Wilson and Jill Scott, Zeichner said, noting the collection based in New York for about 10 years, but the where Tom Voltin, the former Beverly Hills gen- is also carried at Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom, and has just been picked up by company has decided to restore regional of- eral manager, was named in December as senior Dillard’s. It has been dropped by Saks Fifth Avenue, where it debuted in July. fices in different cities for a more hands-on ap- vice president for the West Coast region. The Those making a purchase at today’s show will be showered with gift bags valued proach. Retailers centralize store operations Southeast regional office will be in south at $200, including Nars makeup brushes, and copies of Shanker’s “The Fat Girl’s when they want to cut costs, but many continue Florida, with a decision on a city expected soon. Guide to Life,” and Emme’s “Life’s Little Emergencies.” As for her own coffers, to operate regional offices, including Blooming- Regionals report to Carolyn Biggs, senior Zeichner, daughter of Charlotte Russe chairman Bernard Zeichner, put her sales of dale’s, which has four regions, and Nordstrom, vice president and director of stores. Abby Z at about $2 million thus far and projected they’ll hit $12 million this year.

Bryant Pk Duplex 1100, 2000, 4500 FT. 20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views PATTERNS, SAMPLES, SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT MGL Associates, LLC PRODUCTIONS Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 MGL Associates offers outsourced back All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. office management including Customer Call Sherry 212-719-0622. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Service, Inventory Planning & Control, Cynthia Howie, a highly respected Accounts Receivable/Cash, Accounting. manufacturer of dresses, seeks a dy- With MGL backoffice in place, clients can PATTERNS, SAMPLES, namic and high-energy salesperson to focus on business growth & development. join our growing company. Candidate E-mail all inquiries to: [email protected] PRODUCTIONS must have a min. of 3 yrs. experience in Full servcie shop to the trade. better/social dress market. Candidate 246 Mulberry Street-Nolita Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. 2,000 sq. ft Retail Space must be motivated, have strong com- munication skills & be computer literate . 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Office Asst/Receptionist W-I-N-S-T-O-N Sr.PR/ Jr. Mktg Position:Minreq: Davines Group, a high-end Italian Busy ladies sptswr Co seeks bright, SALES EXECUTIVE 4+yrs exp in Fragrance / Cosmetics/ beauty co. specializing in cosmetics energetic, computer literate person to Dynamic NYC based International gift Showrooms & Lofts Luxury goods PR only. Seeking dy- for exclusive salons & spas, has an manage front desk, answer phones BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS APPAREL STAFFING & accessories Co. has an excellent oppty. DESIGN * SALES * MERCH namic individual to handle all ext & immediate opening for a F/T Executive and data entry. Good organizational for a salesperson with contacts in this Great ’New’ Office Space Avail int PR communication for CREED, the Asst./Office Mgr. in its NYC office. This skills a necessity. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION field, 3-5 yrs. exp. proven sales record, (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 most well known celebrity fragrances, is a dynamic, int’l work environment Fax resume & cover letter to (212) 730 – 2190 strong communication & follow-up skills. and also an upcoming high-end treat- (daily liaisons w/ Europe & Asia) where Generous compensation pkg. Please fax ment line. Loc. NYC office. flexibility is key. You will work directly Patternmaker position available for resume w/ cover letter to: (212) 535-1664 Fax resume to (310) 859 9615 or w/ the Pres. & manage the office. Fluency midtown apparel company. Three year email: [email protected] in English & Italian is req’d & proficient full-time prior experience required. Business Manager in a third language. Exp. in the skincare Please send resume to Equal 4 Inc. at SALES PERSON Sr. Acc Exec.: Min req: 4+ yrs as A/E Seeking exp’d sales person w/ contacts Prestige cosmeceutical company has in Fragrance / Cosmetics/ Luxury & hair care industries is a plus. 209 W. 38th St., New York, NY 10018 an immediate opening for a Business to exclusive spas, boutiques & fragrance Jamaica, Queens, for lease-approx goods only. Fast growing firm seeking Email resume to: [email protected] Manager position at Saks Fifth Avenue, Product Devel Mgr $80-100K. Current exp shops for a miraculous anti-aging face 40,000 sq. ft. fully equipped garment strong leadership skills and highly mo- lift creme, for all types of Men’s & NY. Cosmetics experience, proven sales tivated indiv for tri state area +. in private label womens woven moderate warehouse with racking system, a/c offices track record, excellent comm. skills and MARKETING MANAGER Women’s Skin. & loading docks. Available immediately. Fax resume to (212) 643-0263 or Clarins USA Inc. seeks a FT Internet priced sportswear required. Supervise 4. an entrepreneurial spirit are a must. Strong in Time & Action calendar. Liaison Please call or email: 858-454-2430 Call landlord 516-997-2442 Please fax resume to: (954) 385-6621 email: [email protected] Marketing Manager for Manhattan of- www.organicfacial.com fice. This person will manage all online w/designers, sales + buyers at stores like marketing activities, including publish- Kohls. Fast paced. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. DESIGNER ing on clarinsusa.com and channeling INFANTS APPAREL/LAYETTE materials to retailer sites & new projects. Character license division seeks talented Candidate will also work closely with RECEPTIONIST Designer w/minimum 6 years exp. Must marketing dept. to ensure timely, high Fast paced NYC showroom seeks a team coordinate w/licensors & factories for quality deliverables; Manage sales, in- player with good phone skills & computer approvals. Fax: or E-mail resumes to: ventory and customer communication. knowledge. Size 8 showroom model a plus. 212-725-2703 / [email protected] Bachelor’s degree and at least 3 years Fax resume to: 240-352-4830 relevant industry experience. Strong communication & organizational skills, Draper/Prod. Patternmaker experience w/ Internet & ecommerce, For new "Tween" 7-16 division of es- &familiarity w/ web design/publishing SAMPLEMAKER Sr. Sales Executive tablished social occasion firm. Must tools a must. EOE. Please email resume High-end Eveningwear co. seeks sample- Strong contacts mass & mid tier. have experience with young girl dresses. with cover letter and salary history to: maker with 5 yrs. exp. in gowns/ bridal. Seeking serious growth opportunity. Fax resumes to: 240-352-4830 [email protected] Benefits. Fax resume to: 212-629-3004 Call: Michael 609-707-5413 The first 3-in-one shopping magazine for fashion/home/beauty announces:

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