Laid Woodland Grant Scheme

Archaeological Walkover Survey

REPORT

Site Number AN6 OS Grid Reference NC 4252 6029 NC 4204 5986 NC 4158 5885. Author Pete Higgins Date Produced 02/09/2010 Date revised

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Summary Archaeology North Ltd were commissioned by Mark Banham to undertake a survey of the archaeological resource on three crofts at Laid on behalf of the crofters in advance of an application for a Woodland Grant.

A walkover survey was carried out following a desk-based assessment of existing records. Substantial remains of farmsteads, enclosures and field systems were found, all apparently dating from the 19th century or later. Vegetation cover may have hidden other remains.

Some buildings were in a reasonable state of preservation, and it is recommended that these, and an area around them, be excluded from the proposed planting scheme.

Cover photograph is part of building LP7

COPYRIGHT Copyright of this report remains with Archaeology North Ltd. However, an exclusive licence is hereby granted to the client in all matters directly relating to the project. Should the client wish copyright to be assigned to them, Archaeology North Ltd will retain the right to be identified as the author of this report.

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1. INTRODUCTION 1.1. The tenants of three crofts at Laid, Loch Eriboll, Sutherland, propose to plant parts of their crofts with native species woodland, and have been required to produce a report on the archaeological potential of the affected land as part of a process of applications for grant aid. The three tenants have agreed to bear the costs of this survey together, so the three sites have been investigated as one project. 1.2. The project, so far as is possible, identified and recorded the archaeological resource on the site. It comprised a desk-based assessment of the known archaeological resource, a walkover survey of the land, and the production and dissemination of this report.

2. AIMS AND OBJECTIVES 2.1. To minimise possible delays or costs to the developments. 2.2. To propose arrangements for the safeguarding of any archaeological features or finds identified. 2.3. To analyse and report on the findings of the investigations in line with local and national guidelines and requirements.

3. SITE LOCATION, DESCRIPTION, AND BACKGOUND INFORMATION 3.1. The sites lie within three crofts at Laid, on the western shores of Loch Eriboll. The crofts are centred at OS grid references NC4252 6029 (Site A), NC 4204 5986 (Site B), and NC 4158 5885 (Site C). All are situated to the east of the A838, on land sloping down to the shore of the loch. Morainic deposits are prominent on sites A and B, forming a ridge running more or less parallel to the shore and some 70 to 100m west of it.

3.2. The British Geological Survey shows: The superficial geology of site A to consist of a band of sands and gravels of raised marine deposits of Flandrian age near the loch shore, and undifferentiated till and morainic deposits inland of that. Along the shore is a band with no recorded geology. The underlying geology is Pipe rock near the shore and basal quartz member inland. The superficial geology of site B has not been mapped; the underlying geology is Pipe rock near the shore and basal quartz member inland. The superficial geology of site C consists of a band of sands and gravels of raised marine deposits of Flandrian age near the loch shore, but has not been mapped inland; the underlying geology is Pipe rock throughout.

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3.3. Fieldwork was by Pete Higgins. Desk-based work and post-excavation work was by Pete Higgins, Sue Higgins and Anne Johnston.

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Figure 1: Loch Eriboll and the northwest coast

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Site A

Site B

Site C

Figure 2 The three crofts. Please note the boundaries of the sites are approximate only and should not be used to determine ownership.

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Figure 3 Proposed planting areas

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4. REGULATORY FRAMEWORK AND QUALITY ASSURANCE 4.1. This project falls outwith the main regulatory framework for development since it is occasioned by a grant application process. However, the project has been designed to fulfil requirements under the Scottish Planning Policy (SPP)1, Scottish Historic Environment Policy (SHEP)2, and Planning Advice Note 42 (PAN 42)3, and the policies of the Highland Council. 4.2. Archaeology North Ltd follows the Code of Conduct of the Institute of Field Archaeologists (IFA). Quality of work is assured both through adherence to the standards of the IFA and through internal monitoring.

5. METHODOLOGY AND ITS LIMITATIONS 5.1.1. Desk-based assessment. Available archival resources were reviewed and interpreted in context. The notable features found in this process are listed in gazetteer format below. Sources consulted comprised: The Highland Historic Environment Record (HER) The National Monuments Record of Scotland (NMRS) Historic Scotland’s databases of Listed Buildings, Scheduled Ancient Monuments and monuments proposed for scheduling Cartographic sources held at the National Library of Scotland Map Library Bibliographic references

5.2. Walkover survey. An experienced archaeologist examined the evidence on the ground. Records of archaeologically interesting features were made on pro-formae, and digital photographs taken. Grid references were obtained by a hand-held GPS tool (Silva Multi-navigator), supplemented where necessary by measurements from known fixed points. The sites were traversed in transects approximately 50m apart, ensuring all parts are scrutinised from a distance of 25m or less. 5.3. Fieldwork took place on 12 August 2010, in heavy rain and at high tide and 19 August 2010, in fair weather and at the ebb. Bracken cover was variable, but was high on parts of Site B, where it stood up to 2m. In these areas the walkover followed the tracks left by recent bracken spraying, and consisted largely of probing the ground with a pointed rod. This method has severe limitations, and features could have been missed.

1 http://www.scotland.gov.uk/Publications/2010/02/03132605/0

2 http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/shep-july-2009.pdf

3 http://www.scotland.gov.uk/Publications/1994/01/17081/21711

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6. RESULTS

6.1. Desk based assessment

Historical background 6.1.1 Two settlements, Balloch Beag and Balloch Moir, are recorded in the vicinity of the site in Pont’s survey, conducted in the 1580s, although these names apparently refer to routes rather than settlements. Balloch Beag was a route to Port Chamuill to the north of Laid and the latter a route debouching in the southern end of Laid, possibly near Portnancon. Port Chamuill and Portnancon thus predate the Clearances. Balloch Moir may appear as an unnamed settlement on Thomson’s map of 1823, which also shows a ferry at Portnancon. 6.1.2 Laid itself was created between 1832 to 1835 to resettle tenants from congested settlements elsewhere, and to receive tenants cleared from the sheep farm established to the north, and from other locations in Sutherland. Laid at its height probably had more than 100 tenants, but this had fallen to 18 crofts by the 1880s. 6.1.3The pier, with its storehouse, were probably built in the mid-19th century, although Dagg, 20024, states that an inn, Heilam Inn, probably existed before the pier. The 1881 census records two households near the ferryman’s house, and these appear to be those shown on the 1st edition OS map. At least one of these houses was inhabited until 1917. These were recorded as LP6 in the walkover survey. 6.1.4 The 19th century storehouse at PortnanCon has been extensively modernised and is now a private dwelling; the pier is owned by the home owner. Both were recorded as LP5 in the walkover survey.

Archaeological background 6.1.5 Evidence of human activity in the vicinity of the sites is scarce, although a souterrain (HER number MHG 39715) lies to the north, and an unusual wheelhouse (MHG 11598) to the west, both at considerable distances. 6.1.6 Table 1 shows the archaeological investigations and features recorded within or adjacent to the sites. 6.1.7 Only investigations EHG130, EHG 3085 and EHG 52926 were within, or partly within, the sites. EHG130 recorded several features within the sites, and these are shown on Table 2. The number given for each entry refers to the number of the site within the report on EHG130. Note that a number of the OS grid references given in the EHG130 report did not tally with those of this report. EHG 52926 is the photographic record of a now demolished building at PortnanCon (NGR NC 42431 60701). This site has been levelled and a new house built. It was not recorded in the walkover survey. EHG 3085 is another photographic record, but is not yet available on line.

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Table 1. Previously recorded sites

Canmore No. OS Grid reference Name HER No. Other references Type Description EHG130 NA GUARD 156, 1998 Centroid NC 4873 Investigation North Sutherland Survey: 6267 Coastal zone assessment Coastal survey NA Centroid NC 4290 Durness Crofters, Port EHG1033 C Dagg, 2003 6094 Investigation Chamuill, Loch Eriboll WGS evaluation NA Centroid NC 3682 Rhiconich and Loch Hope, 6209 Sutherland, Overhead Power EHG 793 C Dagg 2002 Investigation line Evaluation NA Centroid NC 4293 Proposed WGS, at Allt Port EHG 845 C Dagg 2002 6199 Investigation Chamuill, Loch Eriboll WGS evaluation NA Photographic survey of EHG 3085 Buidling recording building at Plot 1, Portnancon No further details available on line MHG 25250 84578 NC 4270 6030 Fishing station Pier and fishing stations, Portnancon, pier, store etc. Mid 19th Portnancon century. A long coursed-rubble pier with a ramp on one side, with a wood-piled extension at right-angles. There is a two- storey and attic storehouse with external stair to the first floor and the characteriestic Sutherland Estates projecting eaves. A small cottage next door is in similar style. There is also a small smoking house of wooden construction on a stone base. The pier served the Portnancon-Heilam ferry.

MHG 11692 NA NC 4260 6060 Fishing station MHG 25193 4976 NC 4260 6060 Township Portnancon township A township comprising two unroofed and seven roofed buildings is depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Sutherland 1878, sheet xv). The township contains four unroofed and five roofed buildings and several enclosures on the current 1961 OS 1:10,560 map. Three of the roofed buildings on the 1st edition OS 6-inch are part of Portnancon Fishing Station at NC 427 603. MHG 52926 See EHG 3035 NC 4243 6070 above A small building is depicted on the 2nd edition Ordnance Survey map c.1906 and still survived as a roofless ruin in August 2009. Photographs of the building were submitted to the HER prior to its demolition. Its function is not known. MHG 11915 4928 NC 4163 5908 Lime kiln No further details on line. MHG 10389 73049 NC 4115 5915 Shieling hut A black-house or shieling consisting of an oval enclosure of drystone walling with a transverse inner wall and an entrance on the downhill side. MHG 10388 73048 NC 4060 5970 The footings of a crudely constructed Stock enclosure building 6.5m by 3.5m. Early modern.

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Figure 4 Features found in walkover survey

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Table 2. Features from EHG130

Number OS grid reference Type Description Map 4, No 15 Within NC 426 606 Township Two stone buildings described (PortnanCon) Map 4, No 16 NC 4273 6030 Fishing station Two-storey and attic storehouse; cottage, pier Map 5, No 2 NC 4209 5975 Boat noust Modern, with iron post Map 5, No 9 NC 4180 5900 Boat noust & Modern, with wall slipway Map 5, No 10 NC 4150 5910 Cultivation Lazy beds, traces of

6.2. Walkover survey

6.2.1 The accuracy of handheld GPS devices is not great, and the average error of the readings in this project has been calculated, using known OS reference points both within the site and nearby, as 2.1m East and 2.4m North. 6.2.2 11 sites of archaeological interest were recorded within or adjacent to the two proposed planting areas, see figures 5, 6 and 7. 6.2.3 Many peat cuttings were noted on the hillside lying west of the A868, and in other areas. 6.2.4 The boat nousts recorded by EHG130 (see Table 2) were not found, despite a second visit at low tide on 19 August. It is possible they have been eroded away.

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Figure 5 Site 1 Features overlaid on 1874 map

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Figure 6 Site 2 features overlaid on 1874 map

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Figure 7 Site 3 features overlaid on 1874 map

Gazetteer of recorded features

LP1 Site 3 Grid Reference NC 41378 59047 HER number None Site type Croft complex Figure number 7 Dimensions 22m N/S; 7.1m E/W; 1.6m high Condition Fair A croft house with additions. Main build is of clay bonded stone, with cement mortar repairs and concrete block additions. Associated with dry stane dyke enclosure to northwest. Roofless; Mr C Smith, crofter, states a corrugated iron roof was blown off in the late 20th century. Both croft house and enclosure appear on 1st edition OS map (surveyed 1874), and subsequent mapping.

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P2 Site 3 Grid Reference NC 41347 59052 HER number None Site type Building Figure number 7 Dimensions 2.4m N/S; 2.1m E/W; 1.2m high Condition Poor Poorly built stone building within enclosure of LP1; animal shelter. Does not appear on 1874 map, nor 1920s mapping.

LP3 Site 3 Grid Reference NC 41703 58926 HER number None Site type Cairn Figure number 7 Dimensions 1.4m diameter; 1.5m high Condition Excellent A small cairn built at the mouth of the burn forming the northern boundary of the croft. Modern, and very recent. Mr C Smith, crofter, states he did not know it was there, so built within last 12 months.

LP4 Site 3 Grid Reference NC 41295 58145 HER number EHG130 (Map5, No 10) Site type Croft complex Figure number 7 Dimensions c 40m E/W; 35m N/S Condition Very poor Traces of lazy beds. EHG130 records these as traces of earlier cultivation. Mr C Smith, crofter, states he made lazy beds in the late 20th century, on the site of former beds. Close examination found evidence only of the modern beds, and it is likely these obliterated the earlier beds.

LP5 Site 1 Grid Reference NC 42701 60315 HER number MHG 25250 Site type Pier and fishing station Figure number 5 Dimensions NA Condition Good 19th century mortar-bonded stone building (storehouse) of two storeys with attic. Stone cottage now amalgamated with storehouse. Pier possibly built over former slipway on northern side.

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LP6 Site 1 Grid Reference NC 42638 60497 HER number MHG 25193 (part of) Site type Township Figure number 5 Dimensions NA Condition Good Two unroofed clay-bonded stone buildings, with extensions, additions and enclosures. These stand on the north side of the burn running through PortnanCon. Although the burn was searched, no trace of mills, leats or earlier crossings were found.

LP7 Site 1 Grid Reference NC 42562 60576 HER number MHG 25193 (part of) Site type Township Figure number 5 Dimensions See below Condition Fair Clay-bonded stone building with addition to north, and enclosure to east. Revetted into slope of hill on northwest side. Building is 13.5m NE/SW; 4.8m NW/SE. Southern chamber pierced in southeastern side by window and door. Northern chamber butts southern, and is pierced by door very close to (southern chamber) and window. Sketch in Appendix.

LP8 Site 1 Grid Reference NC 42444 60524 HER number None Site type Peat cutting Figure number 5 Dimensions c.20m NE/SW; c.7m NW/SE Condition Poor Small peat cutting in hillside. The irregular shape of the surviving cuttings indicate this was cut by hand.

LP9 Site 1 Grid Reference NC 425430 60559 HER number None Site type Peat cutting Figure number 5 Dimensions >25m NE/SW; >50m NW/SE Condition Very poor Large peat cutting in hillside, much damaged by a later access track to a quarry.

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LP10 Site 2 Grid Reference NC 41974 59957 HER number None Site type Building Figure number 6 Dimensions 10m NE/SW; 4,5m NW/SE; 0.7m high Condition Poor Unroofed clay-bonded stone building, possibly pierced by window on NW side. Almost certainly a byre. Remains of a small structure butts the southwest end. Appears on 1st edition OS map, (surveyed 1874). Sketch in Appendix.

LP11 Site 2 Grid Reference NC 41970 59934 HER number None Site type Enclosure Figure number 6 Dimensions 12.5m NE/SW; 18m NW/SE; 1.2m high Condition Poor Stone dyke forming enclosure, probably for stock. Does not appear on 1st edition OS map, (surveyed 1874), nor on 1920s mapping.

LP12 Site 2 Grid Reference NC 42139 59805 HER number None Site type Dyke Figure number 6 Dimensions 8.5m long, 0.6m wide, 0.75m high Condition Fair Stone dyke beside the mouth of a small, probably seasonal watercourse. Possibly intended as a boat noust, but not in the same location as that given in EHG130. Does not appear on 1st edition OS map, (surveyed 1874), nor on 1920s mapping.

7. IMPACT OF PROPOSED PLANTING 7.1 All archaeological features recorded dated to the formation of Laid in the 19th century, or later. Many remains of that period survive, some of them in good condition. Of the recorded features, some are clearly modern and therefore of less interest than those that survive from Laid’s founding. The pier and its associated structures (LP5) have been taken to be of regional heritage value, while the croft houses, byre, and enclosures (LP1, LP6, LP7, and LP10) are taken as of local heritage value. The peat cuttings (LP8 and LP9), modern structures (LP2, LP3, LP11 and LP12), and the lazy beds (LP4) are all taken to be of negligible heritage value. 7.2 Following Historic Scotland's criteria for assessing archaeological sensitivity and the impact of the tree planting using modern methods, the sites listed in the gazetteer are rated as shown in Table 1.

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Table 1 Impact of planting on the archaeological resource

Site Cultural value Impact of planting Significance of impact LP1 Regional High Moderate to major LP2 Negligible High Minor LP3 Negligible High Minor LP4 Negligible High Minor LP5 Regional High Moderate to major LP6 Local High Minor to moderate LP7 Local High Minor to moderate LP8 Negligible High Minor LP9 Negligible High Minor LP10 Local High Minor to moderate LP11 Negligible High Minor LP12 Negligible High Minor

8. MITIGATION OF IMPACT OF PLANTING

8.1 The Forests and Archaeology Guidelines recommend no new planting of trees should take place within 20m of archaeological sites in upland areas, and that adjacent archaeological features be included in a larger area of open space. It also recommends that fence lines should not intrude into archaeological sites, and that archaeological sites should not be used as a source of stone or other material.

8.2 In line with this guidance, and using the impact assessment in Table 1, it is recommended that no action be taken to protect the peat cuttings (LP8 and LP9), modern structures (LP2, LP3, LP11 and LP12), and the lazy beds (LP4), but that buildings and enclosures (LP1, LP5, LP6, LP7, and LP10) be protected by establishing a 20m exclusion zone around each site or cluster of sites, see Table 3.

8.3 Figures 7, 8 and 9 show the proposed exclusion zones.

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Table 3 Recommendations for mitigation of impact

Site Type Significance of impact Recommendation LP1 Croft complex Moderate to major 20m exclusion zone

LP2 Building Minor No action LP3 Cairn Minor No action

LP4 Lazy beds Minor No action LP5 Pier and buildings Moderate to major 20m exclusion zone LP6 Township (part) Minor to moderate 20m exclusion zone

LP7 Township (part) Minor to moderate 20m exclusion zone LP8 Peat cutting Minor No action

LP9 Peat cutting Minor No action LP10 Building Minor to moderate 20m exclusion zone

LP11 Enclosure Minor No action

LP12 Dyke Minor No action

Figure 8 Site 1 Proposed exclusion zones (hatched green)

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Figure 9 Site 2 Proposed exclusion zones (hatched green)

Figure 10 Site 3 Proposed exclusion zones (hatched green)

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9. REFERENCES

C Dagg, 2002, Archaeological evaluation of the area of a proposed Woodland Grant Scheme for Durness Crofters at Port Chamuill, Loch Eriboll, Sutherland

C Dagg, 2002, Archaeological Desk-based assessment of overhead power line refurbishments between Rhiconich and Loch Hope, Sutherland

GUARD, 1998; North Sutherland Survey: Coastal Zone Assessment. Kyle of Durness to Torrisdale Bay

Highland Council 2001 Highland Council Structure Plan.

Historic Scotland 2008 Scottish Historic Environment Policy

Ritchie Matt and Wordsworth, Jonathan, 2010, Identifying the historic environment in Scotland's woodlands and forests. Forestry Commission Scotland

Scottish Government 2008 Scottish Planning Policy 23: Planning and the Historic Environment.

SOEnD 1994 Archaeology - the Planning Process and Scheduled Monument Procedures. Planning Advice Note PAN42. The Scottish Office Environment Department.

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APPENDIX

Figure11 Sketches of buildings LP7 (top) and LP10 (bottom)

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