FRESH DAILY
RestAuRAntBY The Editors // PHOTOGRAPHY Clinton Hussey & Greg Geipel // ILLUSTRATIONS Kagan Mcleod
On The Menu
BEST of the YEAR RESTAURANT ...... 62 UPSCALE ITALIAN ...... 73 CHEF ...... 62 CASUAL ITALIAN ...... 74 DESIGN ...... 64 PIZZERIA ...... 74 PASTRY CHEF ...... 65 UPSCALE FRENCH ...... 77 BARTENDER ...... 66 CASUAL FRENCH ...... 78 INGREDIENT ...... 68 UPSCALE JAPANESE ...... 78 PRODUCER/SUPPLIER ...... 69 CASUAL JAPANESE ...... 79 UPSCALE CHINESE ...... 80 SPECIAL AWARDS CASUAL CHINESE ...... 80 PREMIER CREW ...... 70 DIM SUM ...... 82 LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT ...... 72 NOODLE HOUSE ...... 82 MENTORSHIP ...... 74 INDIAN ...... 82 GREEN ...... 76 KOREAN ...... 84 RESORT DINING ...... 94 THAI ...... 84 VIETNAMESE ...... 86 BEST of CATEGORIES OTHER ASIAN ...... 86 NEW RESTAURANT ...... 64 THE AMERICAS ...... 88 UPSCALE DINING ...... 67 STEAKHOUSE ...... 88 Kirin Restaurant CASUAL DINING ...... 70 CASUAL CHAIN ...... 89 Lifetime Achievement FOOD CART ...... 71 NORTH SHORE ...... 89 pg.72 SEAFOOD ...... 72 WHISTLER ...... 90 VICTORIA ...... 90 Comforting, casual food is all the rage these days— VANCOUVER ISLAND ...... 91 OKANAGAN ...... 92 we’ve added categories like Best Pizzeria and Best WINERY/VINEYARD DINING ...... 92 Noodle House—but our panels of judges confirmed that JUDGES upscale dining is back, and that perennial favourites JUDGES’ BIOS ...... 94 still rule some of the major awards PLAYHOUSE WINE FEST ...... 96 20
Greg Greg Geipel 1 2 AwARds May 2012 vanMag.coM 61 62 RA2012 vanMag.coMMay 2012
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TKKTKTKT hAwkswoRth Chef of the year the of Chef PLUS R estaurant of the yearthe of estaurant // energy, Manhattan-like feel of program, lovedthehigh- The judgeslaudedthewine lessly pulled together here.” fi nedininghavebeenseam- “All theelementsofambitious not extreme.” Added another: yet fi rmly rooted, modernbut youthful, globally infl uenced to beseen:sophisticatedbut refl ects Vancouver aswewant assessed theroom thisway:“It you’d expect.”Anotherjudge the food’s bitasgood every ty they’re heartbreaking. And in “atriptychofrooms sopret- West roared backtotopform spring.” The former wizard of the doorsofHawksworth last put it to rest when he opened after athree-year hiatus,he trouble making a comeback Hawksworth wouldhave F Best New New Best whether David was any question judge. “Ifthere INALLY,” saidone // Best Upscale Best at theheightof hisgame.” one ofthecountry’s topchefs hip, withakitchenthatshows enthused. “Elegant, sleek, and back, fi nedining!” onejudge Chef oftheYear. “Welcome Hawksworth himself was voted page 70),and—totopifoff— Sommelier oftheYear (see Terry Threlfall was named Best Design. Wine director Restaurant, and cited it for New Restaurant,BestUpscale the Year, theyvoteditBest golds: besides Restaurant of Hawksworth withmultiple the judges that they honoured (and nearlyunanimous)were rives.” Indeed,soenthusiastic forgotten whenthefoodar- buzzy andnoisy, butallthat’s “and there’s a fi ne line between overly bright,”wrote one, cooking. “Thelightscanfeel expert sourcing and disciplined and praisedHawksworth’s the connectedspaces, May 2012 vanMag.coM 63 RA2012 Best new Hawksworth 801 W. Georgia St. 604-673-7000 Hawksworthrestaurant.com
Ensemble 850 Thurlow St. 604-569-1770 Ensemblerestaurant.com
Nicli Antica Pizzeria 62 E. Cordova St. 604-669-6985 Nicli-antica-pizzeria.ca
Campagnolo Roma Best new design 2297 E. Hastings St. 604-569-0456 Campagnoloroma.com Hawksworth 801 W. Georgia St. Boneta 604-673-7000 12 Water St. Hawksworthrestaurant.com 604-684-1844 Boneta.ca HAWKSWORTH’S privileged location in the historic It was Dale MacKay’s Rosewood Hotel Georgia fronting the VAG meant Thierry Busset bad luck to win Top it had to say something about our city. The design Chef Canada and open meets this challenge by representing the two sides pAstRy WITH ITS SLEEK teardrop his own room the same of Vancouver: the comfortable wealth that befi ts our Thierry lights and rich panelling, 1059 Alberni St. year David Hawks worth status as an urban resort town, and our subterranean 604-608-6870 its retro marble counters wowed with his long- edginess. And it does so in a space that was less than chef Thierrychocolates.com and gilt-frame mirrors, awaited restaurant. One grand; the existing low ceilings and big columns may Thierry—the tiny, bustling judge called MacKay’s have cramped the space but not the creativity of the café from former West Ensemble (Silver) “a designers. The contrast between portly and prickly of the and CinCin maître pâtissier Thierry Busset—is an apt welcome addition with starts with the lounge, where the rumps of the rich manifestation of the man himself. Busset hails from its intense fl avours, nestle into butter-soft white leather under an avant- the sturdy agricultural area of Auvergne, home to skilled service, and garde Damien Hirst. But the distinction is best caught yeAR some serious food brands: Michelin, Le Puy lentils, solid wine and cocktail by contrasting the Pearl Room, where a central glitter- bleu d’Auvergne cheese. Trends come slowly to this program.” Another ing chandelier shrieks of old dough, to the adjacent volcanic region; classics are venerated. So too with the praised “sophisticated, Art Room, where a Rodney Graham wall sculpture— pastry of Busset, who worked at Michelin-starred Le casual food, like black Psychomania (inspired by a ’70s British zombie Gavroche and Marco Pierre White after apprenticing cod bathed in intensely movie)—and memorable mod lights add a vampy for hometown pâtissier Bernard Sicard. Sicard paid for fl avoured pork Thai edge. NICLI ANTICA (Silver) is less than 10 blocks from the teen’s cooking school and instilled in him a love broth.” Nicli Antica Hawksworth, but while the latter rubs up against the of retail and tradition. Twenty-fi ve years later, happily Pizzeria (Bronze) also moneyed sidewalks of Howe Street, the former pushes entrenched in the New World (where he’s made his won raves: “Basically, the Gastown restaurant revolution further east. The peace with our thinner butter and more gluteny fl our), we have this room to Neapolitan pizza trend is housed here in an enduring Thierry crams his shop with these classics: palmiers, thank for the long-over- design—brick bones revealed but contrasted by circu- Viennoiserie, chocolates, and, especially, macarons. He due pizza revolution.” lar forms and red accents: pizza splashed with tomato. makes 1,500 a day, 2,000 on weekends—on Valen- Campagnolo Roma was This is a room that welcomes both high-chairs and tine’s Day, his staff (nearly 30 in total) sold 3,000. If another popular new- hipsters. At the centre of Bronze-winner BLACK + BLUE’s this growth continues (the shop opened in August), comer (“If this is gentri- darkly masculine space is a glass meat-curing closet he’ll be seeking bigger production and more retail fi cation, bring it on!”), where a backlit wall of salt outlines the red slabs of space. For today, though, he’s content. Glancing over and Boneta 2.0 earned drying fl esh. The space works as a big room but allows at Alison, his wife of three weeks (they met at CinCin) plaudits for its cozy feel, for intimacy; fl aunt your taste in expensive quaffs at working in the crowded kitchen, he gives a Gallic solid bar program, and the central bar or enjoy an illicit date in the darkened shrug. “It doesn’t matter how much money I make. I
“artistry on the plate.” alcoves above.—bruce hAden Interiors: Martin Tessler just want to be happy in what I do.”—John burns
64 vanMag.coM May 2012 May 2012 vanMag.coM 65 BARtendeR of BARtendeR yeARthe the making.—neAlM achievement of an overnight sensation 15 years in now hopping every night of the week, the crowning anything thecityhadseenbefore. TheKeeferBaris spirit ofitssurroundings whilebeingnothinglike part apothecary, part thatchannelsthe laboratory; path, andTatarin setaboutcreating aspacethat’s special enoughtodivert thethirstyfrom their usual at hisKeeferHotel.Theroom wouldhavetobe needed to create a bar on the edge of Chinatown the real dealandtheexactsort ofpersonCam Watt the timedbfoldedsecret wasout:Tatarin was years of grinding it out in the minors paid off. By for Earls)brought heronatdbBistro that allthose wasn’t until Cameron Bogue (now the drink master started herowncocktail-focusedbusiness.Butit on Robsonandwhensheneededachallenge to Vancouver, highballs sheslungbeerandsugary job that let her get behind the bar. After relocating unbowed by such draconian rules; she worked any were bartenders, girlswere Tatarin servers. was of Northern Alberta, thehard truthwasthatguys ielle Tatarin, growing up in the cocktail hinterland Mall’s JuiceDanceLounge?For18-year-old Dan- Baja Rosa in the esteemed halls of West Edmonton 66 Thekeeferbar.com 604-688-1961 135 Keefer St. The Keefer Bar RA2012 vanMag.coMMay 2012 C lennAn and dispense shots of don an electric-pink wig but how many would about makingdrinks, say they’re passionate A LOT OF bartenders
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TKKTKTKT cocktail glass. Garnish with Stir all ingredients together. 1 ½oz Italian (sweet)vermouth 1 brandied cherry and wide barspoonMaraschinoliqueur Angostura &orangebitters Strain into a chilled slice of lemon zest. MARTINEZ MODERN 2 dasheseach 1
The ½ oz gin the latesthotspot. out diners’ rushtotry easily overlookedin rooms thatcanbe acclaim asestablished never falters”)earned tion”) andBishop’s (“it dedication toperfec- pino’s (“anunmatched while bothCiop- remake ofthemenu, ian’s boldlyimaginative to chefHamidSalim- Bronze, dueentirely at theMetearned presentations”). Diva sic fl avoursincreative Frank Pabstintoclas- or transformedbychef on offer, whetherraw taste thefi nestseafood of-town guestseagerto best placetotakeout- Blue Water Cafe(“the including Silverwinner a dozenotherrooms, plenty topraiseinhalf the judgesfound year ofHawksworth, Though 2011wasthe Bishopsonline.com 604-738-2025 2183 W. Fourth Ave. Bishop’s Cioppinosyaletown.com 604-688-7466 1133 and 1129 Hamilton St. Grill & Enoteca Cioppino’s Mediterranean Metropolitan.com/diva 604-602-7788 645 Howe St. Diva at the Met Bluewatercafe.net 604-688-8078 1095 Hamilton St. Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar Hawksworthrestaurant.com 604-673-7000 801 W. Georgia St. Hawksworth upscAle Best BB_VanMag_Apr2012_06.indd 1 —Where to Eat inCanada2011/2012 —Where toEat —Hana Lynn, ChefConcierge, Four SeasonsResort, Whistler was thoughtof.Impressive.” “Simply amazing.Everylittle(andbig)detail Whistler’s onlyrestaurantrated3stars 1 8779323433 |[email protected] catering foranylocation~local,national,international celebrate in style catering experience,contact May 2012 to createyourunique bearfootbistro.com vanMag.coM erin kincaid
67 4/4/12 12:44PM 68 Oysters Farmed B.C. year of the ingredient RA2012 vanmag.coMay m 2012 O ing cleaner and more ing cleanerandmore saltier.” Famedforbe- as meaty, andalittle Coast oystersare not Frank Pabst.“East Blue Water Cafe’s chef variety of farms,” says B.C. oysters,from a a day and use mostly of 300 to 600 oysters “We shuckanaverage counterparts. eastern winning outovertheir ties on their menu, feature thelocalbeau- saw chefs increasingly B.C.oysters farmed Ocean Wise statusof tion spotthisyear? them intothecorona- cuisine, so what puts of local of local been apart have long YSTERS and a squeeze of lemon. sprinkle of horseradish simplest: raw, with a when they’re at their They’re attheirfinest themup? way toserve plump.” Andthebest briny, andnice not toostrong or size,they’reperfect by far,” hesays.“The “It’s ourbiggest seller best ofthebunch. World War II—isthe has grown here since Japanese varietythat the Kusshioyster—a oysters. ButforPabst sweet UnionBay plump, delicate,and top spotnexttothe Bay oystersviefor medium-sized Fanny Oyster House,the AtRodney’sfrying.” works wellfordeep- and theirfirmness metallic andoiliness, fect balancebetween says An.“Theper- ideal size,consistent,” dish. “They’re the his crispyfriedoyster Pacific Lineoystersfor Bay, andusestheir An isafanofSawmill Maenam’s chefAngus Island, andFannyBay. Bay, PacificKiss,Read rites includeSawmill year, favou- butfarm times throughout the oysters peak at various succulent, Pacific the year the ofsupplier produce/ n —Aleeza Kh n
TKKTKTKT industry. respect in a discerning F.I.S.H gain widespread business that’s seen successful net-to-plate boats), has made for a has beenaguestonthe (West’s Quang Dang ency aboutfish’s origins paired withtranspar products personally), proach (shedeliversall Yu’s hands-onap- throughout the year.” get aconsistentproduct with Jenice,IknowI’ll Belle Auberge. “And executive chefatLa says Tobias MacDonald, halibut is exceptional,” ity of the salmon and restaurants. “Thequal- an impressive list of recipes), and supplies chef GavinCraig’s panied byconsultant and shellfish(accom- of local, sustainable fish The store offers arange share ofthegoodstuff. Vancouver deserved its the beliefthatMetro Ideas Start Here) with created F.I.S.H. (Fresh that.” In2007,she “I wantedtochange plant inRichmond. family’s fish-processing grew upworkinginher says JeniceYu, who prawns were exported,” best sablefish and spot ly, pretty muchallthe overseas. “Untilrecent- much of it gets shipped crab, andseaurchin, world’s finestsalmon, teems with some of the Though our coast Eatfish.ca 604-431-9392 Crossings, Burnaby 180-7515 Market F.I.S.H —Henry Gould - May 2012 vanm ag.com 69 RA2012 pReMieR and Lucais Syme send Best cAsuAl out of that small kitch- cRew en”), while glamorous L’Abattoir Belgian/North African 217 Carrall St. Neil Henderson bistro fare in an always 604-568-1701 jumping room won Labattoir.ca Bronze for Chambar. La Quercia The “complex, intoxi- 3689 W. Fourth Ave. cating, and memorable 604-676-1007 fl avours” at Vij’s and Laquercia.ca “fresh, seasonal, rustic, and very Italian fare” at Chambar Campagnolo rounded 562 Beatty St. out this category. 604-879-7119 Chambar.com Vij’s Best food cARt 1480 W. 11th Ave. Terry Threlfall 604-736-6664 Re-Up BBQ Vijs.ca Robson & Hornby @Reupbbq Campagnolo 604-724-0894 1020 Main St. Iori Kataoka Reupbbq.com 604-484-6018 Campagnolorestaurant.ca Taco Fino Burrard & Dunsmuir Casual is how we like @TacoFinoCantina to eat out these days, 778-870-6436 Tacofino.com which made for a tight MARKET by Jean-Georges is bringing race for Gold spot Roaming Dragon back 'the favourites' WEEKDAY Feature– this year. “Gastown Robson & Burrard remains the epicen- • $29 three-course prix fixe lunch @DragonTruck $8 classic cocktails tre of a food-focused 604-639-3335 • quake,” said one judge, Roamingdragon.com Join us on our terrace! “and L’Abattoir (Gold) is riding the peak of Nu Greek those seismic waves: @nurestaurant Brooke Delves Nu-products.com the spot, a former jail, is now home to chef La Brasserie Lee Cooper’s revelatory Granville & Georgia French-infl uenced, @LaBrasserieSt West Coast cooking.” Corey Bauldry 604-568-6499 “A stylish reno, packed Labrasserievancouver.com bar, gorgeous bistro food, eclectic wine AVING SKIED SINCE he was a “wee boy,” Whistler seemed the perfect spot How wonderful that we Neighborhood Menu, from 3 - 6PM daily list, and exceptional for Neil Henderson to complete a hospitality business school internship, and live in a city that can and for the duration of all Canucks games. service with tremen- when he arrived from Edinburgh in 1992 to bus at Araxi, he never looked fi nally sustain a food- Brunch features $6 mimosas on Saturday dous knowledge and back. Today he runs the show as restaurant director. Terry Threlfall, our Som- cart culture (and even and Sunday and kids under 12 eat for free. smart recommenda- melier of the Year, kick-started his career at West alongside David Hawks- carry grudges when a tions make everyone Hworth before decamping for London. He returned to oversee the wine program at Hawksworth, beloved vendor like welcome and comfort- where he offers a changing fresh sheet of wines (including “taster” sizes) and the chance for his Coma shuts down). able,” said another. customers to experiment. Iori Kataoka of Zest and ShuRaku modestly describes her job as being Last year’s Silver MARKET by Jean-Georges at Shangri-La Hotel, Vancouver Bold but authentic “the middleman between the chef’s creation and the customer. I just happen to offer a drink to winner, Re-Up, takes 1115 Alberni Street country Italian cooking go along with it.” We know her expertise (especially with sake) goes well beyond that. Brooke Gold this year for its (underground & valet parking available) secured Silver for last Delves, GM at Maenam, and Corey Bauldry, manager of Diva at the Met, have both been in the “knock-your-socks-off” Telephone (604) 695-1115 year’s winner La Quer- industry since they were kids; she busing tables at her parents’ restaurant (“They made me go to pulled-pork sandwich; www.marketbyjgvancouver.com cia (“It’s astonishing fi lm school, but it didn’t stick”) and he as a 15-year-old dishwasher in Mississauga (“I talked too judges sang odes to the Follow us on Twitter @MARKETjg_Van what chef Adam Pegg much, so the chef kicked me out of the kitchen. I’ve been front of house ever since”). Henderson: Amanda Oster; Delves: Doug Sloan; Bauldry: Bruce Law generous, juicy, smoky Like us on Facebook
70 vanMag.coM May 2012 May 2012 vanMag.coM 71 RA2012 lifetiMe slow roast pillowed in a an edible art collection Portuguese bun. (Watch as a meal, omakase at for a bricks-and-mortar AchieveMent Tojo’s (Silver) is pretty, shop coming to New textured, and layered West.) Taco Fino struck with intense fl avours. Silver for its unbeatable The “one-two punch” fi sh tacos, and Roam- at Bronze winner C “is ing Dragon hung onto sustainability leader the podium (post chef and executive chef Rob- Don Letendre) thanks ert Clark, and well-trav- to deeply fl avoured elled chef de cuisine short-rib tacos and Lee Humphries.” Go crunchy fried-rice balls. Fish earned Honour- Greek purveyor Nu able Mention for and Franco-German “Mexican-infl uenced hyphenate La Brasserie salmon tacones and took Honourable Asian-inspired Albacore Mentions. tuna sandwiches,” as did Jade Seafood, where chef Tony Luk delivered Best seAfood outstanding dishes like black cod hot pot. Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar 1095 Hamilton St. 604-688-8078 Best upscAle Bluewatercafe.net itAliAn Tojo’s Producer of the Year 2011 1133 W. Broadway Cioppino’s 604-872-8050 Mediterranean Twenty-fi ve years have done little to slow Tojos.com the Kirin Restaurant Group, which offers world- Grill & Enoteca class Cantonese cuisine (like the sautéed 1133 and 1129 Hamilton St. C Restaurant lobster with macadamia nut dish at left) at its 604-688-7466 2-1600 Howe St. four Lower Mainland locations Cioppinosyaletown.com 604-681-1164 Crestaurant.com Kimble Chan, Nelson yeung, CinCin and the Kirin Restaurant Group 1154 Robson St. Go Fish 604-688-7338 1505 W. First Ave. Cincin.net 604-730-5040 LESSED WITH SPECTACULAR local ingredients and a food-obsessed 1521 W. Broadway Asian population, you might think that great Chinese food would simply Il Giardino 1382 Hornby St. A cozy room and 604-734-9421 happen in Vancouver. But it takes dedicated, talented restaurateurs and Gofishvancouver.com 604-669-2422 604.990.5288 tworiversmeats.com chefs to turn raw materials into world-class cuisine. In 1987 Kimble Chan, Hotelvilladelia.com charming atmosphere, Jade Seafood a former social worker with a background in human resources, made an im- Zefferelli's prides itself 8511 Alexandra Rd. portantB decision. He and business partner Nelson Yeung opened Kirin Mandarin Restaurant La Terrazza Richmond, 604-249-0082 on Alberni Street, in the heart of the downtown business district, signalling that Chinese 1088 Cambie St. on offering flavorful, Jaderestaurant.ca food could move beyond the confi nes of Chinatown and be an integral part of Vancou- 604-899-4449 home-style Italian dishes ver’s dining, business, and social scenes. Chan understood that dining out is much more Laterrazza.ca Chef Frank Pabst “con- than just a plate of food—that it’s about a relationship between restaurant and diner built since 1989. La Piazza Dario tinues to lay it down on long-term trust, respect, and genuine warmth. Yeung’s experience in the Hong Kong 3075 Slocan St. at Blue Water” (Gold), restaurant industry brought business savvy to the mix, and the room they opened continues 604-430-2195 demonstrating techni- to set impeccably high standards for food, service, and décor; a benchmark for the industry, Lapiazzadario.bc.ca cal assurance alongside it drives a level of excellence in Chinese fi ne dining not seen outside greater China. Much commitment to sustain- as Umberto Menghi, Hidekazu Tojo, and Vikram Vij moved their respective cuisines from Thanks to chef and able seafood. “And his easy ethnic clichés to sophisticated dining that embraces locality and seasonality, the Kirin proprietor Pino 1136 Robson Street (upstairs) Unsung Heroes menu group has long shaped the direction of local Chinese cuisine. It’s this unrelenting drive for Posteraro, Cioppino’s Vancouver puts him over the top, excellence over a quarter century that earned Kimble Chan, Nelson Yeung, and the Kirin has a lock on this cat- 604.687.0655 every year.” As much Restaurant Group our Lifetime Achievement Award.—lee MAn Greg Geipel; archive images courtesy Kirin Restaurant Group egory. “Dishes with www.zefferellis.com
72 vanMag.coM May 2012 May 2012 vanMag.coM 73 RA2012 Mentorship real soul,” as one judge Though it’s a small, The Bibo put it. “Brilliant use of local room, La Quercia 1835 W. Fourth Ave. the finest ingredients, draws diners from far award Julian Bond 604-568-6177 amazing wine and food and wide thanks to Thebibo.com matching, and beautiful a focused menu that attention to seasonal- never disappoints. Verace Pizzeria ity.” Another judge “The pasta dishes are 189 Keefer Pl. said the room was “in a hard to resist,” said 604-669-5552 Veracepizzeria.com class by itself—rigour one judge, “but don’t in the kitchen, polished overlook the proteins, With the introduc- service, comfortable which are flavourful tion of this category, but unpretentious sur- and deeply satisfying.” the pizza wars have roundings, and a decep- Chefs Adam Pegg and officially begun. The tive simplicity to what Lucais Syme “have a craze for Neapolitan are often sophisticated very good thing going, pies that has swept this and highly imaginative which is why the place city—bubbled, charred dishes.” CinCin earned is always busy.” Lupo, crust made with kudos for its “depend- “an easily overlooked Caputo flour; crushed ably high standards” as and often underrated San Marzano tomatoes; did standby Il Giardino, room,” took Silver buffalo mozzarella and a favourite of the Bent- thanks to Julio Gonza- bright, tangy basil— ley crowd, which mixes lez Perini, “a chef who lifted Nicli Antica to “good food and wine nails every dish, from Gold. Right place, right with sometimes boister- osso buco to sablefish.” niche—small won- ous fun.” La Terrazza La Buca won Bronze der a table wait goes and Piazza Dario both with its “outstanding BSESSED WITH FOOD from a young age, Julian well past an hour on earned recognition for depth of flavour” in a Bond entered culinary school in Yorkshire at 16, weekends. Humbler dependable fare and dis- “totally unpretentious then cheffed about at Michelin-starred places in but equally drool- tinctive ambiance. setting,” while the two England and France, honing his skills and turning worthy is J.C. Poirier’s Campagnolo locations heads. Recruited to Canada by CP Hotels, Bond unlicensed Main Street were cited for their foundO himself in Kananaskis, Alberta, before arriving in Vancouver hole-in-the-wall Piz- Best casual “excellent rustic fare” in 1994, first at Star Anise (in its glory days), then to open Oritalia. zeria Farina (Silver). that has changed the Along the way, Bond, now 41, met and married Angelina Froste There are only a italian dining landscape “in and together they chase after four energetic kids. half-dozen pies; judges parts of the city we In 2000 Bond found his true vocation. He joined the acclaimed loved the mushroom La Quercia didn’t used to think Dubrulle Institute (which morphed into the Art Institute during with mozzarella, garlic, 3689 W. Fourth Ave. of when we thought his tenure), then, after five years as culinary director, moved to the onions, and redemp- 604-676-1007 about going out for Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts. Heading up the PICA training tive arugula; and the Laquercia.ca dinner.” kitchens, he does more than just teach—Bond is a performer whose unusual combo of pis- Lupo engaging, theatrical style remains memorable to the 1,700 students tachio and mortadella. 869 Hamilton St. he’s taught to date. Protégée Alana Peckham (Cru) still sees Bond Not surprisingly more 604-569-2535 Best pizzeria regularly. “I value his insight and what he has to say. In my mind Roman than Neapoli- Luporestaurant.ca he’s still my teacher.” Says Chris Irving (West, Pourhouse, La Petite tan, Campagnolo Roma Nicli Antica Maison London/Dubai): “Julian was a guiding light for me as a ju- (Bronze) takes sister La Buca Pizzeria nior cook, always there when I needed professional or personal ad- Campagnolo’s dough 4025 MacDonald St. 62 E. Cordova St. vice, keeping me reassured and confident. He pushed me to excel.” and adds irresistible 604-730-6988 604-669-6985 Chef Bond teaches by example. Fond of the ambush, he’ll burst toppings—especially Labuca.ca Nicli-antica-pizzeria.ca into the kitchen, slap down his clipboard, and bellow a call to the Bianca, with Campagnolo Pizzeria Farina arms. Cajoling, cheerfully browbeating, he preps his students as roasted cauliflower, 1020 Main St. 915 Main St. one might a prize ingredient, then stays intimately connected as leek, and taleggio. For 604-484-6018 604-681-9334 they set out and prosper.—DJ Kearney Honourable Mentions, Campagnolorestaurant.ca Pizzeriafarina.com back to la vita neapoli- tana: Lorenzo Bottazzi Campagnolo Roma Partial proceeds from the 23nd annual Restaurant Awards, held on April 128-998 Harbourside Drive 2539 West Broadway Campagnolo Roma 23, 2012, at the Sheraton Wall Centre, were donated to Growing Chefs, and Andrea Bini’s am- 2297 E. Hastings St. a nonprofit organization that puts chef volunteers into classrooms North Vancouver BC Vancouver BC 2297 E. Hastings St. bitious The Bibo and 604-569-0456 604-569-0456 (grades 1 to 3) to get kids excited about growing, cooking, and eating healthy food. Meet the kids online at Video.vanmag.com the oddly formal (but P: 604.924.1847 P: 604.736.1848 Campagnoloroma.com Campagnoloroma.com
Greg Greg Geipel well wined) Verace. www.thomashaas.com [email protected]
74 vanmag.com May 2012 May 2012 vanmag.com 75 RA2012 Perfectly placed in the Best upscale South Okanagan french Le Crocodile 909 Burrard St. 604-669-4298 Lecrocodilerestaurant.com
La Belle Auberge 4856 48th Ave., Ladner 604-946-7717 Labelleauberge.com
Five Sails 410-999 Canada Pl. 604-844-2855 Fivesails.ca
Bacchus Restaurant at the Wedgewood Hotel 845 Hornby St. 604-608-5319 green AWARd Wedgewoodhotel.com Le Gavroche 1616 Alberni St. Trafalgars 604-685-3924 2603 W. 16th Ave. Legavroche.ca 604-739-0555 Trafalgars.com There’s a reason why, CASUAL ITALIAN DINING | FULL BAR | RENOVATED PATIO year after year, the judges award Gold to ince July 2011, Trafalgars on West 16th and next- Le Crocodile—“Simply door bakery Sweet Obsessions have produced virtu- put,” said one, “Michel ally no garbage. Think about that for a second. That Jacob runs a superb, a bustling bistro and bakery could send out hundreds professional, classic of plates of food each day and generate less than a room.” Another sug- Sgarbage bag of waste per week. The secret? An innocuous grey bin gested: “French cuisine about the size of a residential chest freezer in the back lane. The is all about tradition GreenGood GG-50 composter eats all organic matter: bones, dairy, and consistency, and breads, veggies, plus compostable containers and napkins from nobody does it better, the bakery, and 24 hours later spits out nutrient-rich soil. Come night after night, than Sunday, 350 pounds of it are trucked away by Innercity Farms the well-schooled bri- to fuel community gardens like the one on East Hastings Street. gade at Le Crocodile.” LUNCH AND DINNER 7 DAYS A WEEK The up-front investment is big, no question, but even with hydro La Belle Auberge took SUNDAY - THURSDAY 11AM -11PM | FRIDAY - SATURDAY 11AM -12AM costs, the $25,000 machine will pay for itself in a couple of years. Silver, thanks to Bruno “We were spending over $1,000 a month to have waste trucked Marti’s mentoring of Perfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, away,” says co-owner Stephen Greenham. Four times a week the talented chefs such Tinhorn Creek overlooks the old gold mining creek that is the winery’s namesake. We are environmental restaurant shipped out over a quarter-ton of organic-matter waste as Tobias MacDon- stewards of 150 acres of vineyards: “Diamondback” (mostly water that evaporates). “Haulage fees are huge and taxes ald, who does “great on the Black Sage Bench, and “Tinhorn Creek” on the keep going up.” He and partner Lorne Tyczenski outfitted work food in a character Golden Mile Bench. Both provide us with the fruit to craft the superb, terroir driven wine that we’re known stations, including the back of bar, with four containers labelled restaurant, way out in for. Our top tier Oldfield Series represents the finest metal, paper, hard and soft plastics, and organics—“It helps that Ladner.” Five Sails in Marcello of each vintage. the city’s recycling system is recently more sophisticated, so we the Pan Pacific took Pizzeria & Ristorante can now recycle things like the Styrofoam containers that the fish Bronze: “It’s easy to is packed in”—and they were away to the races. “Here’s the thing,” overlook the underrat- 1404 COMMERCIAL DRIVE @ KITCHENER STREET, VANCOUVER says Greenham. “Once you commit to doing it you realize: it’s so. ed cuisine here as you 604-215-7760 | WWW.MARCELLOPIZZERIA.COM
Damn. Easy. And the payoff is huge.”—rebecca philps Greg Geipel drink in the best view BOOK YOUR PARTY HERE FOR UP TO PEOPLE www.tinhorn.com 40
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in town.” Bacchus at the medallions of veal, porary and cerebral yet the Wedgewood Hotel and the prune and ar- serene; the food, from Best casual Your new (“consistently good magnac pot de crème.” well-travelled Yoshiaki food in a comfortably La Brasserie took Silver Maniwa, one of the japanese appointed room”) for its “lively buzz and great chefs from pio- sous chef. and Le Gavroche well-priced dishes,” neering Shijo, perfectly Kingyo Izakaya (“much improved of while La Régalade won balances texture and 871 Denman St. E xploringx late”) both earned Bronze as “a West Van flavour in a way that’s 604-608-1677 Kingyo-izakaya.ca Honourable Mentions. institution that nails entirely in keeping the bistro basics, from with what’s happening Guu the house pâté and escar- in Japan.” Gracious, Six locations Best casual gots to boeuf bourgui- knowledgeable service Guu-izakaya.com N gnon and lamb shank.” and an exciting, often aramataa french Les Faux Bourgeois and local, wine list. “The Sushi Kimura Restaurant Café Régalade earned $60 menu is a bargain, 3883 Rupert St. 604-569-2198 Pied-à-Terre Honourable Mentions. but the soba crab roll B Sushikimura.com ench 3369 Cambie St. and the gyoza are also 604-873-3131 must-tries.” Miku Pied-a-terre-bistro.ca ShuRaku Sake Bar Best upscale (Bronze) is “packed & Bistro La Brasserie at lunch to the point 833 Granville St. 2012 1091 Davie St. japanese where you can’t hear 604-687-6622 604-568-6499 yourself think, let Shuraku.net Labrasserievancouver.com Tojo’s alone hear what your Dan Japanese April: 1133 W. Broadway tablemate has to say. Restaurant & Bar Introducing Culinary Parchment cooking and La Régalade 604-872-8050 But it always offers Kettle Valley Winery 2232 Marine Dr., North Van Tojos.com 2511 W. Broadway great fun and accom- 604-921-2228 604-677-6930 baking products from PaperChef. The non-stick, May: Zest plished food. Dinner Danrestaurant.com Laregalade.com no fuss, no mess way to prepare delicious recipes. Red Rooster 2775 W. 16th Ave. is quieter—and the Les Faux Bourgeois 604-731-9378 patio is one of down- About our Gold winner Don’t just make dinner. Create it. 663 E. 15th Ave ZestJapanese.com town’s summer secrets, Kingyo Izakaya, a West 604-873-9733 especially during spot End room that sets the Lesfauxbourgeois.com Miku Restaurant prawn season when standard for Japanese 1055 W. Hastings St. they do the best deep- tapas, the judges noted Café Régalade 604-568-3900 fried heads. The aburi “despite the veneer of 2836 W. Fourth Ave. Mikurestaurant.com 604-733-2213 (slightly scorched) yelling and good cheer, Caferegalade.com Octopus’ Garden sockeye oshi roll is there are no short cuts 1995 Cornwall Ave. first-rate, and the with the food, which Judges noted steady 604-734-8971 chicken aburi with is very well executed growth in this popular Octopusgardensada.com garlic and cabbage is and features tightly category, with newly downright addictive.” focused flavours.” EN Japanese Restaurant GREAT RECIPES: PAPERCHEF.COM opened spots like Café Honourable Mentions Every location of 4422 W. 10th Ave. Régalade and The 604-730-0330 to the “oddball and id- Guu (Silver) teems French Table join- Encuisine.ca iosyncractic” Octopus’ with hungry English- ing stalwarts such as Garden which has an language students and “WINE LIST WINNER” Pied-à-Terre, which The long-held reign of “unrelenting focus on thrill-seeking foodies, again took Gold for its Tojo’s (Gold), “always quality and execution,” settling in for plates of “reliably outstanding extravagantly good,” and En, where “Yami- grilled pork cheek with OPEN takes on bistro fare, was threatened by Zest san, like Tojo, is a ponzu sauce or, more well-chosen wine list, (Silver), where you’ll veteran of Vancouver’s controversially, basashi Brunch: Saturday and Sunday Open Daily 10am to 6pm (starting at 10:30 a.m.) and convivial service find “sophisticated, Japanese restaurant sashimi (perfectly mar- Dinner: Every evening and atmosphere.” subtle Japanese food scene, and interprets bled horse meat offset www.tinhorn.com (starting at 5:00 p.m.) Another judge pointed with the best ingredi- his food through an by soy and burnt-garlic out that Pied-à-Terre ents from local farmers Italian lens. Try the dipping sauce). At is “the kind of room and fishermen” as well miso soup (the best in Bronze-winning Sushi 2229 Folkestone Way, West Vancouver, BC where you fall as easily as off-duty chefs at a the city), the avocado Kimura, chef Itsuroku A Proud Sponsor of the RESTAURANT AT TINHORN CREEK into conversation with neighbouring table. salad, and the calamari Kimura, an industry 23rd Annual Restaurant Awards Open for Lunch, Tapas, & Dinner 7 days a Reservations: 604.926.3212 week and Weekend Brunch www.salmonhouse.com strangers as you do into “The room is contem- rice bridge.” vet who has owned www.ponderosa-mushrooms.com www.miradoro.ca
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rooms in Shanghai and Kong kitchens. “Dishes Hoi Tong LA—lending what our like crab with mixed 160-8191 Westminster Hwy., judges called a “ram- mushrooms and shal- Richmond shackle friendliness” lots, or Grandfather 604-276-9229 to his food—offers chicken, succulent an omakase menu with gentle soy smoki- Big Chef (traditional multi- ness, have a simple 1060-8580 Alexandra Rd., course dinner) that is sophistication that all Richmond 604-207-0386 “astounding for both Cantonese restaurants quality and generos- aim for.” At Silver win- Nine Dishes ity.” ShuRaku and Dan ner Sea Harbour, “The 960 Kingsway earned Honourable use of more herbs and 778-282-8699 Mentions for “inven- specialized ingredients tive sushi creations” raised the cooking Dinesty and “easy charm and to another level and 8111 Ackroyd Rd., friendly, welcoming produced deeper and Richmond 604-303-7772 service,” respectively. wilder fl avours.” Kirin (Bronze) remains “the Our judges liked it absolute standard hot, hot, hot! At Gold Best upscAle bearer of high-qual- winner Alvin Gar- ity, Vancouver-style den you’ll experience chinese Cantonese cuisine”; whiplash heat in rustic local ingredients are Hunan dishes (like Jade Seafood given gold treatment beef stir-fried with 8511 Alexandra Rd., and dim sum menus pickled pepper or fi let Richmond change monthly to of tilapia poached in 604-249-0082 Jaderestaurant.ca refl ect seasonality. (See a spicy broth)—keep our Lifetime Achieve- a bowl of rice and icy Sea Harbour ment Award, page 72.) beers on hand to douse 3711 No. 3 Rd., Richmond Honourable Mentions the fl ames. Hoi Tong in 604-232-0816 to Bamboo Grove, a Richmond (Silver), on Seaharbour.com traditional chop suey the other hand, offers house featuring some “layered, nuanced, and Kirin of the fi nest and most sophisticated” Hong Four locations Kirinrestaurants.com expensive food and Kong dishes (the prices wine in the city (go are steep but the at- Bamboo Grove for caramelized black mosphere is warm and 6920 No. 3 Rd., vinegar pork spare- convivial), while Big Richmond ribs), and Golden Chef (Bronze) stands 604-278-9585 Paramount, an elegant out from its “Eat Street” little room that turns contemporaries with Golden Paramount out sought-after Hong dishes like golden crab 8071 Park Rd., Richmond 604-278-0873 Kong-style Chinese with rice cakes. Hon- food like fresh oysters ourable Mentions to bottlegreen A competitive (and air-dried to concentrate Kingsway’s charmingly naturally contentious) category, their natural brininess scruffy Nine Dishes, a given the range of and pan-fried with a perfect recreation of a refreshing high-end Chinese touch of sweet soy. casual Beijing hangout bottlegreen are restaurants that dot serving punchy and known for their our city. Long-standing deeply spiced Northern natural, unique winner Kirin was Best cAsuAl Chinese cuisine, and usurped this year by Dinesty for Shanghai flavours that are Jade Seafood (Gold), chinese food (xiao long bao, perfectly balanced which epitomizes the fried rice with scallop to compliment restraint and focus on Alvin Garden and egg white) served the finest key ingredients that 4850 Imperial St., Burnaby in sleek and modern cuisine. defi ne superior Hong 604-437-0828 surrounds.
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like baked barbecue broth with distinct hits Best dim sum pork pastries and locals of five spice, carrying THAI RESTAURANT make Vivacity a regular noodles that are rough (on Burrard) Kirin start to their day (dim hewn, flat or thin, but Four locations sum service starts at 9 always buoyant and Kirinrestaurants.com a.m., as at a true Hong toothsome. For extra Dynasty Seafood Kong restaurant)— depth, the beef shank Restaurant you’d be well advised in fire chili soup has 777 W. Broadway to do the same. great Szechuan pepper 604-876-8388 heat. And the room is lovely.” The toroniku Jade Seafood Best shio ramen stands out 8511 Alexandra Rd., at Hokkaido Ramen Richmond Santouka (Silver)— 604-249-0082 noodle house Jaderestaurant.ca “The broth, a mainstay Chef Hung of Hokkaido, nourishes Sea Harbour Taiwanese Beef the body and satis- 3711 No. 3 Rd., Richmond Noodle fies the soul, and is 604-232-0816 1560 Marine Dr., utterly authentic. The West Van Seaharbour.com noodles, cooked to 778-279-8822 order in wire baskets Vivacity 2800-4151 Hazelbridge before being tossed in 110-8351 Alexandra Rd., Way, Richmond Richmond 604-295-9357 the broth, maintain a 604-279-1513 Chefhungnoodle.com delicate snap, and are served with achingly The best Chinese Hokkaido Ramen tender pork cheeks, restaurants make Santouka salted plum, fishcake, 1690 Robson St. their dim sum daily 604-681-8121 green onion, and wood in-house, and the best Santouka.co.jp ear fungus for textural of the best, like Kirin nuance.” Find distinc- (Gold), change their Motomachi Shokudo tive ramen at the hands menu regularly to 740 Denman St. of chef Daiji Matsubara reflect seasonality and 604-609-0310 at Bronze-winner Mo- the finest local ingre- tomachi Shokudo. “He dients. Must-order? Deer Garden Signatures uses quality ingredi- 1118-3779 Sexsmith Rd., Prawn, garlic, and pea Richmond ents including organic tip spring rolls. Dynas- 604-278-3779 meats and chicken Thai cuisine is one of the ty Seafood Restaurant 2015-8580 Alexandra Rd., bones for a lighter world’s finest culinary creations (Silver) turns out Hong Richmond broth for his tonkotsu. and the Sala Thai preserves Kong-style cuisine 604-278-9229 Matsubara’s innovation the great tradition of of the finest order— Deergarden.ca in presentation should classic Thai dining. “where the menu really not be overlooked.” shines is with vegetar- Kintaro Ramen Honourable Mentions 788 Denman St. ian dishes like Buddha’s to value-oriented Deer 604-682-7568 feast, a refreshingly Garden Signatures, “a light interpretation of Rainy Vancouver phenomenon among a classic.” Jade Seafood nights and cozy, Chinese noodle lov- (Bronze) offers “perfect steamy noodle bars ers,” and the boister- little bites—a great are a match made in ous Kintaro. 102-888 Burrard Street blend of tradition heaven, and this new and innovation” like category represents 604.683.7999 steamed mushroom the best of a crush of Best Indian Friday - Saturday: 11:30am-10:30pm dumplings kissed with joints that opened last Sunday - Thursday: 11:30am-10:00pm truffle oil. Honourable year. Gold winner Chef Vij’s 1480 W. 11th Ave. www.salathai.ca Mention Sea Harbour Hung, an acclaimed stands out for smart chain from Taiwan, 604-736-6664 Vijs.ca ✸ RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED ✸ executions of classics offers “a dark, rich
82 vanmag.com May 2012 Culinary Education RA2012 is his Passion Rangoli themselves to retire, Silver-winner Jang Mo 1488 W. 11th Ave. because the Kingsway Jib for the goon mahn 604-736-5711 address delivers the doo dumplings stuffed Vijsrangoli.ca best traditional Indian with ground pork and in the city. Honourable scallions, mammoth Ashiana Tandoori Mentions to Atithi, Roy seafood pancakes, and 1440 Kingsway Abhishek charming, delicious jab che of 605-874-5060 authentic little family sweet potato noodles Ashianatandoori.com resto; and Chutney tossed in sesame Atithi Villa, with its serious oil, vegetables, and 2445 Burrard St. South Indian cooking thinly sliced beef. Sura 604-731-0221 and must-try weekend (Bronze) offers a more Congratulations Julian Atithi.ca tiffin brunch. upscale experience with cleanly wrought on receiving the Chutney Villa 1st Vancouver magazine cooking and beauti- 147 E. Broadway Best korean fully presented food— Mentorship Award 604-872-2228 Chutneyvilla.ca “It’s a welcome dose of We are so proud Hanwoori maturity and sophisti- Never drive to Vij’s 5740 Imperial St. cation in the local Ko- (Gold)—you’re going Burnaby rean restaurant scene.” 604-439-0815 to wait, and while Honourable Mentions you wait, you’re going Jang Mo Jib to Seoul Doogbaegi for to drink and graze Four locations its excellent soondubu, through delicious Jangmojib.com a hearty broth of soft appetizers and hardly tofu and seafood, and www.picachef.com notice that yes, it’s been Sura Korean Cuisine to Insadong, “a great hour since you arrived 1518 Robson St. place to take a crowd 604-687-7872 but hey, who cares? for barbecue. Don’t Both the ever-evolving Seoul Doogbaegi miss the marinated ka- food and the astutely 1031 Kingsway lbi ribs and spicy pork selected wines reward 604-879-1515 bulgogi.” patience. You’re really in such a hurry? Next- Insadong door Rangoli (Silver) 301-403 North Rd., Best thai gives all the delish Coquitlam 604-936-3778 without the delay. Maenam Insadong.ca Wild & Farmed Game Meats Start with sweet-sour 1938 W. Fourth Ave. chaat, some cauliflower At Hanwoori (Gold) 604-730-5579 Organic Beef, Chicken & Pork Maenam.ca Specialty Premium Meats & Poultry pakoras, then the you’ll find “classic lamb chickpeas with homestyle Korean, Sala Thai #1 - 130 Glacier Street, Coquitlam potatoes in yogurt-date MHFE VANMAG_AD_PRINT.pdf 1 12-04-04 2:27 PM and never mind if it’s 102-888 Burrard St. 604-472-1500 • hillsfoods.com curry and (go on!) the next to a car repair 604-683-7999 surprisingly delicious shop!” Big booths Salathai.ca naan with roasted and private rooms crickets. There is In- beckon “for hearty Pink Elephant Thai 1152 Alberni St. dian food beyond Vij’s, plates like oxtail soup, C 604-646-8899 though, and it’s lucky slow-simmered to Pinkelephantthai.com M for us that Rick and perfection, and the Y Sonia Takhar—who iconic jejuk bossam— Bob Likes Thai Food 3755 Main St. CM opened Ashiana Tan- a cabbage wrap with doori (Bronze) 30 years oysters, kimchi, and 604-568-8538 MY ago, and have managed lusciously tender pork Boblikesthaifood.com
CY to put five children belly. The service is Sawasdee Thai through university and genuine and thought- CMY 4250 Main St. open last year’s 300- ful, helping first timers 604-876-4030 K seat Surrey location— navigate the menu.” Sawasdeethairestaurant.com can’t quite bring Our judges loved
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Chef Angus An’s use of Au Petit Café Café Kathmandu fresh local ingredients, 4851 Main St. 2779 Commercial Dr. paired with authentic 604-873-3328 604-879-9909 Thai flavours, and Aupetitcafe.com Cafekathmandu.com an excellent wine list Seri Malaysia Restaurant clinched Gold for Mae- Family-run Phnom 2327 E. Hastings St. nam, which offers “a Penh (Gold) has a lock (now closed) refinement unequaled on this category, and in this town.” Sala Thai for good reason. You Banana Leaf (Silver) has terrific could spend hours Four locations value at lunch and on perusing the encyclo- Bananaleaf-vancouver.com daily special menus; pedic menu of authen- gold shrimp cakes and tic Vietnamese and Hushed tones and Pa-naeng tiger prawns Cambodian dishes, but warm service welcome and scallops (sautéed do what your neigh- at Gold-winner Spice seafood, coconut meat, bours are doing and Islands, where chef/ and kaffir lime in a order the butter beef owner Joseph Boon’s In- fiery red curry) are as and deep-fried chicken donesian fare is infused authentic as they come. wings with lemon with Indian, Arabic, Alberni Street swag pepper dipping sauce. Dutch, and Chinese meets Thai House tra- Then repeat. Soup’s influences. “Save room dition at Pink Elephant the thing at Pho Thai for the spekkoek, an (Bronze), where the Hoa (Silver), especially Indonesian take on the well-heeled snack on the house special pho Dutch multilayered but- modern Thai tapas and dac biet, a “slurptastic ter cake,” advised one sip cooling Ko-Chang beef lover’s delight: a judge. The menu at Bo sangria in a stark white jumble of fatty brisket, Laksa King Bubbles and and hot pink room. soft tendon, tripe, and Bits (Silver) expertly Honourable Mentions meatballs with noodles traverses Malaysian, to Bob Likes Thai in a clean, light broth.” Singaporean, and Thai (where Main Street- Pho Tan (Bronze) is an cuisines, but it’s the ers patiently queue at unexpected gem on the Burmese dishes that dinner) and Sawasdee Main Street corridor; go sing, like the fermented Thai (especially for its for ga nuong xa, grilled tea leaf salad (lahpet searingly hot Crying chicken delicately thoke), a buzzy mix Tiger beef). scented with lemon- of pungent tea leaves, grass. Honourable tomatoes, fried garlic, Mentions to Vancou- crispy lentils, and Best ver Vietnamese (fried cabbage. Abi Sharma prawn on sugar cane!) is a charming guide to vietnamese and Au Petit Café (best Nepalese food at Café banh mi in town!). Kathmandu (Bronze), Phnom Penh where you’d be smart to 244 E. Georgia St. order khasiko maasu, 604-682-5777 Best goat meat simmered Pho Thai Hoa until tender in a rich 1625 Kingsway other asian curry, or kaauli, an 604-873-2348 earthy dish of turmeric- Phothaihoa.com Spice Islands infused cauliflower with 3592 W. 41st Ave. fenugreek potatoes. Seri Pho Tan Vietnamese 604-266-7355 Malaysia and Banana Spiceislandsindonesian.com 4598 Main St. Leaf (our judges liked 604-873-3345 Bo Laksa King the consistency of Vancouver Bubbles and Bits food and service at the Vietnamese 2546 E. Hastings St. original Broadway-at- 4136 Main St. 604-568-4593 Willow location) earned 604-872-3455 Bolaksaking.com Honourable Mentions.
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When it comes to Latin accessible, fun results) Gothamsteakhouse.com mile in making cus- to Black + Blue (Glow- Guu Sebastien Le Goff has The Observatory Six locations 6400 Nancy Greene Way, food, this town finally took Bronze with tomers feel like full- bal’s glamorous take come onboard.” With Best of Hamilton St. Grill Guu-izakaya.com best North Van has a robust scene. scrumptious south- 1009 Hamilton St. swagger VIPs. Big in on the genre, with more splashy loca- 604-998-5045 the americas Doña Cata has matured of-the-border street 604-331-1511 its portions, its flavour, its soaring Las Vegas Joey tions in the works, one north shore Grousemountain.com in recent years into a food and Nick Devine’s Hamiltonstreetgrill.com and (yes) its prices, interior, adventurous Five locations judge joked, “the city’s Doña Cata Victoria Drive main- virtuosic Latin cock- Gotham (Silver) is full- menu—deep-fried Joeyrestaurants.com best chain is making a Fraîche At Fraîche (Gold), 5076 Victoria Dr. stay: authentic $2 tacos tails. Memphis Blues Black + Blue on carnivore arousal. Brussels sprouts?— full-court press toward 2240 Chippendale Rd., Venezuelan-born Jef- 604-436-2232 with the meat of choice (Honourable Mention) 1032 Alberni St. The AAA steaks never and full-throated wall Earls world domination.” West Van ferson Alvarez works 604-925-7595 Donacata.com enlivened by 10 salsas; continues to deliver 604-637-0777 disappoint, but it’s the of meat) and quarter- Seventeen locations Hapa Izakaya took out his culinary chops Glowbalgroup.com/ Earls.ca Fraicherestaurant.ca the increased agave te- outstanding, consistent perfect sides that got century chop shop Joe Silver for its “sleek on a usually conserva- La Taqueria blackblue 322 W. Hastings St., quila list requires study barbecue. our judges raving. “I’d Fortes. Cactus has separated creative Japanese food La Régalade tive audience—and 604-568-4406 at this cheap, cheerful Joe Fortes kill to be able to make itself from the casual- with a strong side of 2232 Marine Dr., West Van they love it. Credit his 2549 Cambie St. knockout. Meanwhile, 777 Thurlow St. their tomato salad fine-dining pack, and personality” while 604-921-2228 thoughtful approach 604-558-2549 muy auténtico La Ta- Best 604-669-1940 at home,” said one. Best the clever move Rich- Guu won Bronze for Laregalade.com to modernist cook- Lataqueria.ca queria (Silver) churns Joefortes.ca Beautifully marbled ard Jaffray made hiring having “largely edu- ing, using wild and Zen Japanese out tacos al pastor— Angus beef is the draw Rob Feenie to refine cated the Vancouver foraged ingredients, Latitude steakhouse casual chain Restaurant chili-marinated pork Maybe it’s all the old- at cozy Hamilton Street and oversee the menu palate for the iza- game meats, and less- 3250 Main St. 2232 Marine Dr., West Van with luscious pineap- Hy’s Encore school TV we’re watch- Grill (Bronze), but it’s Cactus Club Cafe is paying off hand- kaya experience.” Joey 604-925-0667 appreciated seafoods 604-875-6246 637 Hornby St. Eighteen locations Latitudeonmain.com ple—that would bring ing, but Hy’s in the the organic hanger somely. Our judges earned kudos for “a Zensushi.ca like uni and octopus. your abuela to tears. 604-683-7671 Gold berth felt…just steak that seduced Cactusclubcafe.com lauded “the quality much-improved food These days, the spec- Hyssteakhouse.com Gusto di Quattro Memphis Blues Meanwhile, sharply re- right. Pride in service, judges, plus the un- Hapa Izakaya and consistency” as program under the tal- tacular view is almost 1 Lonsdale Ave., North Van BBQ House focused Latitude (mar- Gotham Steakhouse great char-grilled beef, fussy neighbourhood Four locations well as a “much- ented Chris Mills” and an afterthought. Boeuf 604-924-4444 Four locations rying South American 615 Seymour St. the place (four decades vibe and killer values. Hapaizakaya.com improved somme- Earls for dependable, bourguignon, navarin Quattrorestaurants.com Memphisbluesbbq.com and Med flavours with 604-605-8282 young) goes the extra Honourable Mentions lier service now that casual comfort. d’agneau en cocotte,
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Zambri’s homey pâtés (ac- James Walt’s relation- textures and tastes of “has an eye for compo- Italian wine list is a The Pointe at the began the mantra, a cooking style that companied by a jar of ship with local farmers chef Melissa Craig’s 820 Yates St. sition and a genius for surefire hit. Classic and they still hold fast never overpowers or is Best whistler 250-360-1171 Wickaninnish Inn cornichons)—French and producers accounts creations.” Aura at simplicity.” They tum- Brasserie L’École (think to their principles. overly precious.” Stone Zambris.ca 500 Osprey Lane, Tofino bistro La Régalade (Sil- Araxi for the fine ingredients Nita Lake Lodge—“the bled into amore with all the mainstays: 250-725-3100 It’s impossible to top Soup (Bronze) runs 4222 Village Sq. ver) continues to live on your plate at Araxi; most unsung restaurant Brasserie L’École his insanely addictive moules Frites, steak Wickinn.com Sooke’s worship of the Cowichan Valley up to its own boister- 604-932-4540 his artistry in the kitch- in the region”—took semolina fritters, truffle with Roquefort butter, surroundings in that gamut with brilliantly Araxi.com 1715 Government St. ous buzz. At Bronze- en is what makes them Bronze, thanks to the 250-475-6260 mayo’d; squab breast sole meunière) met its Stone Soup Inn oceanside room. Pork seasonal farmhouse cast Zen, the perennial sing. And, one judge “top-notch ingredi- Lecole.ca and confit of leg (a own high standards for 6755 Cowichan Lake Rd., and rabbit from nearby dinners Thursday Bearfoot Bistro Cowichan outsider among the pointed out, “Samantha ents and impeccable dish of earthly beauty); Bronze; with the bonus farms, toothsome Dun- to Saturday; dedi- 4121 Village Green 250-749-3848 North Shore’s League 604-932-3433 Rahn does an excellent technique” of executive Cafe Brio and lamb three ways. of creative wine and geness crab, and ex- cated forager and chef 944 Fort St. Stonesoupinn.ca of Nations winners, Bearfootbistro.com job of matching his chef Tim Cuff. Sister Attentive, gracious beer lists from co-own- traordinary salads and Brock Windsor crafts 250-383-0009 sushi chefs frame work with bottles from restos Fifty Two 80 and Cafe-brio.com service and a small but er Marc Morrison. Amusé Bistro vegetables from the hyper-regional menus sustainable West Coast Aura her well-stocked wine Sidecut—both in the interesting wine list 2915 Cameron Taggart Rd., garden—the Philips of- paired with wines 2131 Lake Placid Rd. ingredients in poetic room.” Intense compe- Four Seasons—also Pizzeria Prima Strada rounded out the ap- Mill Bay fer the total package of from grapes and other 604-966-5700 Best 250-743-3667 terms. Original raw fish Nitalakelodge.com tition from Whistler’s earned acclaim from 2960 Bridge St. peal. The sophisticated intelligence, commit- varietals grown locally. rolls are elegant, while other first-rate rooms the judges. 250-590-4380 farmhouse cooking Amusebistro.com ment, and artistry. The Honourable Mentions Primastrada.com vancouver sashimi tastes pure and Fifty Two 80 Bistro and Bar keep Walt on top of at Zambri’s (Silver)— Sobo Wickaninnish’s rustic, to Amusé Bistro (new elemental. Honourable 4591 Blackcomb Way his game. At Bearfoot palotte abruzzese (fried 311 Neill St., Tofino elegant Pointe (Silver) and bigger digs at Un- Mentions to seaside 604-935-3400 Bistro, even Andre Best victoria Last year, Ulla was a bread dumplings), island 250-725-2341 also speaks exqui- sworth Vineyards will perch Gusto di Quat- Fourseasons.com Saint-Jacques’s “ebul- promising contender. pitch-perfect spaghetti Sooke Sobo.ca sitely to its place, said give chef Brad Boisvert tro (site of the Corsi lience, vast wine cellar, Ulla This year, it was the vongole—remains both our judges. And chef more space in the Sidecut Harbour House family’s debut) and and vodka-filled ice 509 Fisgard St. judges’ shoo-in for Gold. bold and gutsy, and Local, regional, Nick Nutting “shows garden and the kitchen 4591 Blackcomb Way 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd., Sooke Grouse’s mountaintop room” can’t overshad- 250-590-8795 Chef/co-owner Brad crack sommelier Fran- sustainable—Sinclair continued strength to work his local- 604-935-3400 Ulla.ca 250-642-3421 Observatory. Fourseasons.com ow the “sophisticated Holmes, they enthused, ces Sidhe’s increased Sookeharbourhouse.com and Frédérique Philip and confidence, with ingredients voodoo)
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Limited production, vineyard inspired wines. for directions and map visit okanagancrushpad.com Open June 15 – October 15 Visit vanmag.com to subscribe today! Powered by Thursday to Sunday, 11:30pm – 5:30pm or by appointment 250.494.4445 in Summerland
90 vanmag.com May 2012 May 2012 vanmag.com 91 RA2012 and Sobo, a temple to Bouchons Bistro side. A must-stop on The Terrace at sustainable bohemian 105-1180 Sunset Dr., the Okanagan trail. Kelowna Best winery/ Mission Hill sophistication. Three years in, RauDZ 250-763-6595 1730 Mission Hill Rd., Bouchonsbistro.com (Silver) has earned vineyard Kelowna enduring fondness 250-768-6467 Best okanagan Theo’s for the diverse menu, dining Missionhillwinery.com 687 Main St., Penticton from terrific burger- Waterfront 250-492-4019 beer deals to the classic Miradoro at Vineyard Terrace at Restaurant & Eatsquid.com three-course meals of Tinhorn Creek CedarCreek 5445 Lakeshore Rd., Wine Bar yore. Unpretentious 32830 Tinhorn Creek Rd., Oliver Kelowna 104-1180 Sunset Dr., Chef/sommelier Mark Local (Bronze) puts Kelowna 250-498-3742 250-764-8866 neighbourhood wines 250-979-1222 Filatow’s bistro Water- Tinhorn.com Cedarcreek.bc.ca Waterfrontrestaurant.ca front (Gold) is the best first (as it should) in kind of experiment: a humble setting with Old Vines Restaurant Manny Ferreira (of Le RauDZ Regional Table unexpected, hard to killer summer views at Quails’ Gate Gavroche) “has raised 1560 Water St., Kelowna replicate. With the from the outstanding 3303 Boucherie Rd., the bar in South Oka- 250-868-8805 Okanagan’s best wine patio. Honourable Men- Kelowna nagan winery dining,” Raudz.com list by a country mile, tions went to Bouchons 250-769-4451 one judge said of Gold Quailsgate.com it’s now twice the size Bistro (all the bistro winner Miradoro at Local 12817 Lakeshore Dr. S., through an ambitious bells and whistles: Bacchus Bistro at Tinhorn Creek. In the Summerland renovation that, among well-executed timbales, Domaine de Chaberton kitchen, Jeff Van Geest 250-494-8855 other features, presents terrines, cassoulet) and 1064 216 St., Langley (ex-Aurora Bistro) Thelocalgroup.ca plan-ahead diners with Theo’s, home to hall-of- 604-530-9694 “brings a keen aware- a chef’s table kitchen- fame lamb shoulder. Domainedechaberton.com ness of sourcing the
92 vanmag.com May 2012 RA2012 local and seasonal that The Pointe at the worldwide reputation in Vancouver magazine, the puts this restaurant at Best ResoRt Wickaninnish Inn 30 years ago. These Eating & Drinking Guide, the top of its class.” (Gold) has dominated days the room is like and Best Places Vancouver. Silver winner Old Vines this category for years. an aging all-star—its She is also a judge for the dining Chinese Restaurant Awards. at Quails’ Gate was And while the dramatic joints are starting to MURRAy BANCROFT is culi- cited for its “consistent, The Pointe at the clifftop location brings ache, but it’s still prone nary director for Western year-round quality, in Wickaninnish Inn them in, it’s the staff’s to moments of life- Living magazine and con- 500 Osprey Lane, Tofino a setting that delivers fanatical attention to affi rming brilliance. sults with a roster of inter- 250-725-3100 it all.” Bronze went to detail—perfect linens, Rounding out the list is national clients as a research Wickinn.com the only non-Okanagan phenomenal wine list, the Native-infl uenced chef and food stylist. CHRISTINA BURRIDGE is fi nalist, the “often (and Sooke Harbour House fl awless service—that dishes with Japanese unfairly) overlooked” ensures it remains one notes found at the drink editor for Vanmag 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd., Sooke and executive director of Bacchus Bistro at 250-642-3421. of the premier resort remote King Pacifi c the B.C. Seafood Alliance. Domaine de Chaber- Sookeharbourhouse.com dining destinations on Lodge, whose exclu- SID CROSS educates, ton in Langley, where the continent. As one sive clientele enjoy the advises, and judges at “generous portions King Pacific Lodge judge put it, “It’s the fi nest fl oating cuisine many wine and food events of traditional French Princess Royal Island restaurant I wish we in B.C. including the Canadian 604-987-5452 Culinary Championships cuisine” and “a killer Kingpacificlodge.com had in Vancouver.” On lobster bisque” im- the other hand, Silver and this mag’s International Wine Awards. pressed the judges. The This year’s winners winner Sooke Harbour judges BILL JONES is a chef, author, Terrace at Mission Hill couldn’t be more differ- House could only exist and food consultant based and Vineyard Terrace ent, notwithstanding where it is, tethered JOIE ALVARO KENT is a colum- on Deerholme Farm in the at CedarCreek earned they all occupy prime to the famous garden nist for Montecristo maga- Cowichan Valley. Jones is Honorable Mentions. slices of waterfront. that helped launch its zine; her work also appears an editor for Islandchef.ca.
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1633 Manitoba Street | 604.331.7900 | legacyliquorstore.com | @LegacyLiquor 94 vanMag.coM May 2012 RA2012 Vancouver Playhouse SUBSCRIBE International Wine Festival Winners DJ Kearney is a sommelier president of strategy for instructor for the Interna- Liquid Art Fine Wines. TODAY! SPIRITED INDUSTRY tional Sommelier Guild, a Shelora Sheldan is the PROFESSIONAL chef, and a wine writer for Victoria city editor for Richard Carras Wine Access magazine. She Western Living magazine is the head judge of this and contributes to North- SOMMELIER OF THE YEAR Over 50 craft beer events taking place Terry Threlfall magazine’s International west Palate, Best Places Van- May 18th-26th, 2012 Wine Awards competition. couver, and Eat. She blogs METRO VANCOUVER TICKETS ON SALE NOW! Qubic Lam is a freelance at CookingwithaBroad. Platinum Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar vancouvercraftbeerweek.com writer and a wine col- Mia Stainsby is the inde- Cioppino’s Mediterranean umnist for Sing Tao Daily fatigable restaurant critic Grill & Enoteca and Evergreen News, and and food writer for the Hawksworth Restaurant West a consulting editor and Vancouver Sun. Gold columnist for Wine Trend Stephen Wong is a food Brix Restaurant & Wine Bar magazine in China. and wine writer and con- CinCin Ristorante & Bar Fraîche Deana Lancaster is the sultant, cookbook author, L’Abattoir SUBSCRIBE food and wine editor for the and founding chair and MARKET by Jean-Georges SUBSCRIBE North Shore News and Look judge of the Chinese Res- Nicli Antica Pizzeria Salt Tasting Room magazine, and a contribu- taurant Awards. Wine Room at Joey Bentall One TODAY! tor to the Eating & Drinking Silver Guide and Sunset magazine. C Restaurant TODAY! Accounting services Chambar Lee Man is a freelance for tabulating the results Cork & Fin food writer; his work has provided by Edible Canada at the Market appeared in Vancouver Jill MacKenzie Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House magazine, Eat magazine, CA, CFA, Associate Lift Bar Grill View the Vancouver edition of Partner, Private Company Maenam Time Out, and Best Places Services, Pricewaterhouse- Tableau Bar Bistro The Observatory Vancouver. He’s also a Coopers LLP YEW Restaurant + Bar founding judge of the Chi- Zest Japanese Cuisine nese Restaurant Awards. Bronze Raincity Grill Brendon Mathews is a The Salmon House freelance food writer with Thanks to our Honourable Mention expertise in Chinese cuisine Al Porto Ristorante Special Award Gramercy Grill and a judge for the Chinese Panelists The Beach House Restaurant Restaurant Awards. WHET Kitchen.Bar.Patio Barbara-jo McIntosh is Design of the Year WHISTLER an author, a former restau- Sharon Bortolotto, Gold rateur, and the owner of Principal and founder, BBA Araxi Restaurant & Bar the bookstore Barbara-Jo’s Rimrock Café Design Consultants Honourable Mention Books to Cooks. Bruce Haden, Principal, Ric’s Grill Whistler Neal McLennan is the food Dialog The Grill Room at the Fairmont Chateau Whistler and travel editor at Western Anicka Quin, Editor-in- Living and a contributor to Chief, Western Living VANCOUVER ISLAND Cooking Light, enRoute, and magazine Silver Seattle magazines. Nautical Nellies (Victoria) The Pacific Jason McRobbie is a free- Bartender of the Year Restaurant (Victoria) lance writer and video- Canadian Professional Vis à Vis Wine & grapher with an interest in Charcuterie Bar (Victoria) Bartenders Association Honourable Mention regional cooking. He con- The BOTY award recipi- Ric’s Grill Steakhouse tributes to Indulge. ent received a $1,500 B.C. (Victoria) Andrew Morrison is editor The Landing West Hospitality Foundation- Coast Grill (Nanoose Bay) of Scout online magazine, funded scholarship to the The Mix by Ric’s (Sooke) restaurant critic at WE, and educational program(s) of Zambri’s (Victoria) writing instructor at Pacific her choice. OTHER B.C. Institute of Culinary Arts. Gold Tim Pawsey covers food and Best Producer/Supplier & Emerald Lake Lodge (Field) wine for the Vancouver Cou- Silver Ingredient of the Year Galiano Inn (Galiano Island) rier, North Shore News, and Chefs’ Table Society of BC The Restaurant at Where Vancouver, co-edits Painted Boat (Madeira Park) Zagat’s Vancouver survey, Bronze La Bussola (Kelowna) and blogs at HiredBelly.com. Watch coverage of the 23nd Annual Local Lounge + Grille David Scholefield is a Restaurant Awards (Summerland) global wine expert and Honourable Mention Ceremony at Whitetooth Mountain Video.vanmag.com 1-800-363-3272 consultant. He is also vice- Bistro (Golden)
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