Jinbei Kids by danslalune
What you need to start A 2cm wide elastic waistband
A fabric you like! For a given age the following table gives you an indication of the fabric length to cut and the Jinbei’s final sizes (it assumes 110cm wide fabric):
1Y 2Y 3Y 4Y 5Y Fabric length needed 130cm 150cm 150cm 160cm 210cm Jacket back length 35.5 37 40 44.5 51 across back 34 38 40 42 44 sleeve length 14 14.5 15 16 17 Trousers inside leg 8.4 9.4 10.4 10.9 11.2
Getting ready Stick together all pages to build the pattern: from left to right, then top to bottom, following the page numbering. Bring the ‘+’ signs of the corners in alignment, then it will appear:
How a full pattern is created from A4 prints (here a pair of trousers)
One point advice 1. This pattern is meant exclusively for non-stretchable fabric. 2. If you have no overlock machine, you can do zigzag stitch with a standard machine instead. 3. Assume 1cm seam allowance, except when specified. 1. Preparation Put the pattern on the fabric you chose and cut. Don’t miss the fold edge line. Also don’t forget to cut notches on the places with ‘notch marks’. Finally copy all the markings on the pattern to the fabric.
2. Pockets Iron press 1cm from the edge and then 2cm from the edge again.
Then sew along the red line about 1 to 2mm from the edge.
Fold the other 3 sides 1cm from the edge as shown and then iron press. Fold the top corners on 45
degrees.
atelierlalune.com
www.
|
Zoom of a top corner
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
1 Place the pocket you just made on the Jinbei’s front/left (right side).
Then sew the pocket on, along the red lines.
Don’t forget to reverse stitch (back stitch) at the beginning and the end
3. Maedate (front piece) Fold the “maedate” as shown on the picture with the flower pattern here. Fit 3 marking pins as shown.
telierlalune.com
www.a
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
2 Now sew along the red line, it is featured on the pattern.
Iron press where you just sewed, and do the same on right and left side.
atelierlalune.com
www.
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
3 4. Back top Put “jinbei back tops” together, right sides up, along the center back line.
Sew along the “center back” line, 0.5cm from the edge as shown.
Push down the seam allowance to the left side with your iron.
Fold the line where you sewed above and iron press.
telierlalune.com
www.a
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
4 Now sew 1.5cm from the edge.
Push down the seam allowance to the left side with your iron.
5. Collar Fitting Let’s prepare the back top: apply “basting” stitches around the neck. It is the black thread on the picture here, this “stay stitching” will avoid unpleasant stretching of the fabric.
Then cut carefully along the red lines.
atelierlalune.com
www.
|
Now iron press the side of front top, 1cm from the edge.
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
5 Then fold once more this time over 1cm. Do this on both right and left side of front top.
Now for the hem of the front top: fold the bottom twice (1cm and then 2cm). Do this on both right and left side of front top.
(1) first sew the bottom of the hem (2) and then sew the side
(3) do these on both telierlalune.com right and left side of
front top www.a
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
6 Next, press iron 1cm from the edge of the collar.
Attach the collar to the front top with clips or sewing pins. Make sure you match both pieces on the 5 notch markings (3 on the top end of the collar and 2 at each end).
Iron press 2cm from the end of the collar.
See here the detail of how the ends of the collar are attached to the front top.
atelierlalune.com
www.
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
7 Next, sew along the red line here with 1cm seam allowance. Sew all around and all the way around the collar with care.
Now iron press the seam allowance to the collar side as shown (the red line here still shows the previous sewing line).
Also you should iron press from the inside of the collar as well.
telierlalune.com
www.a
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
8 Sew the collar on both ends.
Turn the collar over to show its right side, and iron press to cover the stitch line you have done before.
Now sew the collar along its edge (1 or 2mm from the edge is best).
atelierlalune.com
www.
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
9 6. Sleeve and body Fold the sleeve cuff and iron press.
First on 1cm… then again on 2cm.
Before fitting on the body, use overlock-stitch on both edges.
Now put the sleeve and the body together, set them face to face, matching the 3 notches carefully.
Then sew them together with 2cm seam allowance.
Stop 1.5cm from each end: do not sew over the seam
allowance of the sleeve.
telierlalune.com
www.a
|
Now do it for the other sleeve!
Kids Jinbei
10 7. Body Fold the bottom of the ‘back top’ twice up, first 1cm then again 2cm as usual. Then iron press. See the result on this picture.
Next sew about 1 to 2mm from the edge.
Put ‘back top’ and ‘front top’ together face to face by matching the notches.
Align notch
marks!
atelierlalune.com
www. Then sew with 2cm seam allowance, between the notches, along the red line.
|
And do it for the other side as well.
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
11 Next we sew the bottom of each sleeve as shown, 1.5cm from the edge.
Iron press on each side of the stitch to flatten it nicely.
Now put back the sleeve cuff’s folding in place, iron press it a little and hand-stitch (sewing machine is also ok).
And do it for the other sleeve as well.
Put it the top to the right side out and iron press it to pull into shape.
telierlalune.com
www.a
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
12 Now we need to make the inside seam allowance look good. So first put the top inside out again. On each side we left 2cm allowance:
Fold it on 1cm, and fold again on 1cm. Iron press.
You then have to sew the seam allowance from A to B, going all the way around the top of the sleeve.
△! The following view shows this under another angle. Be slow and careful when you stich: watch out what is on the other side!
atelierlalune.com We’re almost there!
www.
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
13 8. Strap Fold in the middle and iron press it to mark the centerline.
Iron press 1cm from one end of the strap. Only on one end!
Fold the strap in the middle once.
Fold once more as per this
picture.
Sew the edge of the string as shown
Fold 1cm from the edge that was not sewn above.
Great! Now do… 4 of these!
With your sewing machine, you can attach these 4 straps to 4 different points of the top.
telierlalune.com
www.a
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
14 and the last one here:
That’s it, you just finished the body part, well done!
9. Pants First we fold it at 1cm from the trouser cuff and iron press.
And fold it again 2cm from the edge.
atelierlalune.com
www.
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
15 Sew there along the red line.
Do the same for the other leg.
Put both pants parts together.
Keep the wrong sides facing each other.
So the right sides are out as per this picture.
Sew along the edges with 0.5cm seam allowance
One-point-advice:
Cut on the red marks here to keep the fabric into place in the curve.
telierlalune.com
www.a
|
You have to do this to both front side and back side edges. Kids Jinbei
16 Now turn the trousers inside out and iron press.
Sew again the edges as shown here.
Cut along the blue corner here.
atelierlalune.com
www.
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
17 Fold 1cm from the edge of the waistline and the fold again at 2cm. Iron press there.
Put the inseam together to be face to face as per the picture.
* Put down the sea allowance to the left side. Do this to both sides so that the middle does not get too thick.
Now sew along this line with 1.5cm seam allowance.
telierlalune.com
www.a
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
18 Cut about 1cm of one side of the seam allowance, the back pants side for instance, as shown here.
Wrap 0.5cm of the excess (front pants) seam allowance over the other one. Iron press.
Sew the edge of the part we just folded.
atelierlalune.com
www.
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
19 Fold the waistline 1cm from the edge and then fold it again at 2.5cm.
And last of all, sew the edge here.
Leave an opening here of about 2cm to be able to push the elastic inside later
telierlalune.com
www.a
|
Jinbei Kids Jinbei
20