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10-12 Cork Go Away GB 2014

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10-12 Cork Go Away GB 2014 Cork Cork Ireland The Cork International Short Story Festival is one reason to visit this thriving town in south-west Ireland, says local writer ALANNAH HOPKIN – but there are plenty of other reasons too. Here is her guide to the area n Cork people do not wait to be renowned academic, or one of the introduced but launch straight many local writers, like me, who enjoy into conversation with whoever the annual influx of new faces. happens to be next to them A compact city just an hour’s – as Her Majesty the Queen flight from most UK airports, with discovered when she visited a great artisan food scene and a ICork’s English Market, and had an walkable historic centre studded with impromptu laugh at fishmonger Pat interesting hostelries, Cork is the O’Connell’s remarks. perfect festival destination. During the The Cork International Short Cork Jazz Festival in October the city Story Festival, held annually in late is overrun with cool dudes in shades, September, upholds this tradition, and while in late May the riverbanks are is a great place for writers of all sorts packed with thousands of spectators to meet. It is wonderfully egalitarian; at the Ocean to City Maritime everyone mingles, everyone talks Festival. The Short Story Festival is Richard Ford and Edna O’Brien to to their neighbour. Your neighbour one of the smallest on the calendar, Canada’s Alistair MacLeod and Anne might be a famous name, an and is conducted discreetly, among Enright; from Colm Tóibín, Rose unpublished beginner or a facilitator consenting adults, as it were, with Tremain and Grace Paley to Yiyun Li, from the daily workshops (from €150 audiences ranging from 30–120. It has winner of the Frank O’Connor Award for four sessions), an internationally hosted a shelf-full of writers – from for the best story collection in 2005. Cork city is an attractive place, with seagulls crying moodily as they cruise above the gracious Georgian buildings of the South Mall and Grand Parade, home of Cork City Library, the festival’s daytime base. Because the city centre is an island, created by the River Lee dividing into two channels, bridges and quays abound. As a result, it is as easy to get lost in Cork as it is in Venice. But just ask a local and you will be put right – that is if you can interpret the Cork accent, which is said to go up and down as steeply as the hilly northside of the city. Football fans are amazed to find that all the taxi drivers sound like Roy Keane, probably Cork’s most famous son of the moment, though perhaps Fiona Shaw could pose a challenge since her Harry Potter connection. The festival was originally named Fishmonger Pat O’Connell shares a joke with the Queen in Cork’s English Market after another famous Corkonian, 10 The Oldie GB March 2014 Cork Cork International Short Story Festival 24–27 September 2014 The world’s oldest annual short story festival, produced by Munster Literature Centre. The line- up for 2014 will be announced in the spring. Past writers have included Jhumpa Lahiri and Louis de Bernières, among many others. Tel: +353 21-431 2955 munsterlit.ie and corkshortstory.net is an accomplished poet, and also Director of the Munster Literature Centre which occupies the O’Connor birthplace. From the attic of a tiny terraced house this amiable, easy- going character magics together a programme of readings, book launches, competition prize-givings and workshops with a high proportion of free events. The evening venue, Triskel Christchurch, is an airy, light- filled space, built in 1717 to replace the church where in 1594 the poet Edmund Spenser married Elizabeth Boyle, celebrated in his Epithalamion. More details can be gleaned on the festival’s literary walking tour. The English Market opposite writer Frank O’Connor. Born in lively cosmopolitan city, where Christchurch has over 100 stalls humble circumstances in 1903, people can browse for new and of artisan food and other produce. O’Connor came of age in time to fight secondhand books in four large, in the Civil War, an era recalled in uncensored emporia, including a his story ‘Guests of the Nation’. Such bustling Waterstone’s. With a great artisan food scene, and a walkable historic centre studded with interesting hostelries, Cork is the perfect festival destination AND T Y EN M A M an exciting start to adulthood was he festival has close links Al AIN hard to follow, especially, O’Connor with Cork City Council and D/ rt T E felt, if you were a librarian in Cork, University College, Cork T Y L R N T living in a country that banned your (UCC), co-sponsors of the €25,000 E A S br C books. So he left, and advised all other award, the world’s biggest short story I E LI Corkonians with literary ambitions prize. Some of the courses are held MP R E U to do the same. O’Connor prospered on UCC’s campus, and attended by Cork writer Frank O’Connor ct in London, where he became known students on its Creative Writing MA as an outspoken critic. In the US he alongside festival-goers. In the lifetime Festival-goers relax at the market’s HUSSEIN/ DING PI R wrote for the New Yorker and taught at of the festival, the short story has gone Farmgate Café, though in fine weather R Ivy League colleges. from poor relation of the novel to the a pint of stout outside the Electric bar HA NWA A rt There is something very likeable new Big Thing, ideal for time-strapped with views of the ubiquitous river, E about Cork’s big-hearted celebration online readers, and the favoured form is tempting. The Long Valley serves ob of a native son who couldn’t wait to of both the 2013 Nobel Laureate, Alice pastrami sandwiches so large that HUSSEIN/ R leave the place. But the provincial Munro, and the Booker International it is impossible to eat them politely, backwater of O’Connor’s youth is only prizewinner, Lydia Davies. while the Bodega and the Oval bars NWA PHOTO: © R A a faint memory in today’s Festival Director Patrick Cotter Continued overleaf • March 2014 GB The Oldie 11 Cork the water’s surface. Cobh is a steep, characterful port with two visitor centres, a cathedral by E W Pugin and a Victorian waterfront promenade. Or take a half-hour local bus ride to Blarney Castle. Kissing the stone is optional, but do climb to the top to appreciate the sheer heft of the building, a massive stone tower house, and the views of the Lee Valley. The extensive gardens have a grove of ancient yews, river and lakeside walks. The Blarney Woollen Mills next door is Ireland’s biggest craft shop. Eighteen miles south of the city is Kinsale, a historic town on a wide, attractive harbour. While most Cork towns are twinned with modest villages in Brittany or Wales, Kinsale is twinned with Antibes. Very grand, but a yacht is not obligatory: you can use the hourly bus service. Wander the narrow streets, sampling Kinsale, the ‘gourmet capital of Ireland’, is only eighteen miles south of Cork boutiques, galleries, bookshops and Inset: Blarney Castle is half an hour away cafés, and choose a place to enjoy the local seafood: café, restaurant, pub are atmospheric early evening spots. and treat themselves to the luxurious or chipper. Wherever you go, you can The Crawford Municipal Gallery Hayfield Manor, hidden away in the be sure it will be fresh, and it will has a café run by the legendary university quarter. The same area has come with the chance for yet another Ballymaloe foodie empire, and a choice of B&Bs: try Garnish House conversation with perfect strangers. interesting maritime paintings too. for typical Irish hospitality, Lancaster Café Paradiso, a vegetarian restaurant Lodge for modern design. The Impe- FURTHER INFORMATION with such delicious fare that even rial Hotel in South Mall, closest to the General Tourist Information www.discoverireland.ie The festival finishes on Saturday, leaving time Cork City Tourist Information to explore Cork’s hinterland, including Cobh/ Office Aras Fáilte, Grand Parade, Cork City Tel: +353-21-425 5100 Queenstown, Blarney Castle and Kinsale email: [email protected] Cork City Airport is a ten-minute the most dedicated carnivores do festival venues, has been restored to taxi or bus ride from the city centre, not notice the absence of meat, is the splendour of its Georgian heyday, and is served from the UK by Aer near the university. The Market Lane but remains reasonably priced, with a Lingus, Ryanair and jet2.com. Restaurant in Oliver Plunkett Street is lively bar and coffee shop. www.corkairport.com a busy, inexpensive bistro that sources The nicely landscaped campus of most of its food in the market. UCC is worth the 15-minute walk. The PLACES TO STAY The Maldron, part of a small budget Tudor-Gothic-style quad (1845) has a Maldron Hotel John Redmond St, hotel chain, has a pool and is where display of pre-historic Ogham stones, Cork Tel: +353-21 452 9200 D all the writers stay. Those with deep and is complemented by the Glucks- www.maldronhotelcork.com M E pockets might follow Edna O’Brien’s man Gallery (2005), and the Honan Hayfield Manor Perrott Ave, lh example (she won the prize in 2009) Chapel (1916), a showcase of the Irish UI G College Road, Cork Arts and Crafts movement.
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