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h west and another 2km (1.25 g i r

y miles) of golden sands at St p o

c Catherine's Bay n w

o (HY645260) on the west r

C side. The last two are backed by dunes and associ- ated dune-slacks with an interesting variety of plants and birds.

On the southeast side, between Odin Ness Aerial view of Whitehall from the north (HY690263) and Lamb attracted the first settlers, Of the numerous burnt Head (HY693213) there are but extensive cultivation on mounds recorded, the only low cliffs with several dra- the island over thousands of good remaining example is matic caves, gloups and cas- years has ensured that only at Kirbuster (HY686235), tles. These include 's traces remain, mostly in the south of the Vat of Kirbuster. best natural arch at the Vat few areas of uncultivated At its north end, where it is of Kirbuster (HY687239) ground. There are several over 2m high, burnt stones and several interesting caves chambered , the best are exposed, while the which can be entered by a preserved being the long mound is nearly 30m long small boat in calm weather. mound of Kelsburgh by 20m wide. All of the rest On the west side of Lamb (HY617248) above the have been ploughed out or Head is the “Danes’ Pier” shore near Bu. The tops of otherwise destroyed. (HY688214), a naturally several orthostats can be occurring spit of stones, seen, suggesting that there There are several well-pre- which is traditionally said to were at least seven compart- served settlement sites be a Norse harbour. ments. At Lamb Head including a large prehistoric STRONSAY (ON stones, with Lower in Stronsay, which was one (HY689213) there are mound behind a shingle ayre Strjonsey, Gain or Profit Sandstone at Rothiesholm. of the first parishes to ratio- Most of the island is culti- remains of two chambered at Greenhill, Huip Island, most likely in the There is a thick overlying nalise land-holdings and the vated and the visitor will tombs, one of which is tri- (HY629297), a broch with sense of good farming and layer of boulder clay, which island has some of the most notice that Stronsay is one of partite, while at Grice Ness associated settlement at fishing, but perhaps from has weathered to produce fertile farms and best stock the tidiest islands in Orkney (HY672284) the prominent- Benni Cuml, Houseby ON Strondsey, Beach the heavy but fertile soils of in Orkney. with very well tended fields. ly situated “Cutter’s Tooer” (HY672214), another broch Island.) The island is most- today. Agriculture has long The only real moorland is on sits on a well-defined plat- at Hillock of Baywest, ly formed from flag- been regarded as progressive Like Sanday, Stronsay has a Rothiesholm (HY620220, form about 21m in diameter. Rothiesholm (HY619243), very long coastline, with pronounced Rousum), the Whitehall Village and the Fishmarket many fine beaches. Indeed large headland to the south- The Vat of Kirbuster is the best natural arch in Orkney there is a suitable beach no west, which now hosts aero- matter from from what airt generators. At Burgh Head the wind is blowing. There in the southeast there is are good sandy beaches at Maritime Heath. The island Ayre of Myres near has a very wide range of Whitehall (HY656280), habitats which, together Mill Bay on the east side with its easterly position, (HY660260) where the makes it one of best places sands stretch for 2.5km (1.5 in Orkney for birdwatching. miles), Rothiesholm Archaeology Stronsay's (HY635245) in the south- fertile soils must have

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built on a substantial earlier architect Leslie Graham settlement site from which MacDougall. Alexander traces of buildings protrude. Moncur died in 1944 and left £20,000 to build a new The Chapel of Kildinguie church in memory of his (HY654272) is marked by a grandfather, James Moodie, grassy bank above the shore who was minister on the of Mill Bay, near the Well of island from 1822 to 1860. Kildinguie (HY654272), whose waters are said to The tall cruciform, grey- have curative powers. When harled building is unique, The Hillock of Baywest is an Iron Age broch and settlement site taken with dulse from fur- but reflects Orkney building Whitehall Village from the West Pier, the Fishmarket is on the left ther along the shore at style. It is tall and narrow where there is a substantial bridge, has a stone wall on then the main export was of Capitals of Europe and in Guiyidn, or perhaps Geo inside with bare white walls mound and ruins of an Iron the landward side of the grain to the Continent, with 1913 about 300 steam Odin, whose exact location and chairs rather than pews. Age village. At Lamb Head stack - perhaps the Vallum pre-fabricated boats and tim- drifters were working out of is now uncertain, the effects At the east end the unusual (HY690215), two side- monasterii which might ber from Norway on the Stronsay, employing nearly were said to be especially sanctuary with its commun- chambers of a partially- have separated the secular return trip. 4,000 crew and shore work- potent. Pilgrims came here ion table is dramatically lit excavated broch can be and the religious ground. ers. In the peak year of 1924 from Norway and Denmark by a window entered through holes in the Stronsay also has ten or The Steamer Pier and Lower over 12,000 tons of herring to partake of the waters from depicting the Good roof. Below Clestrain more chapel sites, most of Whitehall were built by were landed at Whitehall, to the Well and of the dulse Shepherd by Marjorie Kemp (HY635273) the remains of which were probably associ- Malcolm Laing of be salted and packed in which together were of . The south a settlement can be seen, ated with Norse farms, but about 1830 and by this time, casks for export to Russia, believed to be able to cure transept features a bellcote having been exposed by ero- the only evidence for them is not only was the Herring sta- Germany and Eastern everything except the in Dutch style, reflecting the sion of the shore. Ruins of in place-names. tion thriving, but Stronsay Europe. Changes in vessels plague. longstanding Herring fish- buildings and of a boat noust itself had about 170 small and, in particular, the use of ing connection. The original are visible. Nothing remains of the for- boats, no doubt partly "Klondyker" factory ships Moncur Memorial Church plan included a tall circular mer parish church of Lady financed as a result of the after World War II, meant Stronsay is unusual in hav- tower based on the St Early Christians had sever- Kirk, except a mound in the Kelp Boom. Today that the industry did not ing a large 20th century Magnus Church on al hermitage sites along the cemetery, which is on the Whitehall has two piers, and revive in Stronsay. church, the Moncur as well as a hall and a southeast coast, including shore near The Bay the renovated Fishmarket at Memorial Church, built manse, making an enclosed Tam's Castle (HY668237) (HY641247). West of the head of the ferry pier. During the boom years, between 1950 and 1955 on square with the church. where there is the ruin of a Whitehall, St Peter's Kirk There is another old pier to Whitehall developed consid- the site of the former United cell. Broch of Burgh Head (HY660282), is now an the east as well as a slipway. erably and the Stronsay Presbyterian Church and Whitehall Village owes its (HY700230), originally overgrown confusion of Though Lobster fishing, is Hotel was said to have the designed by Edinburgh name to a house built in joined to the cliff by a rock stones in the graveyard. It is still practised, the economy longest bar in until 1671 at the Pier Head by has mostly reverted to farm- Patrick Fea, who had recent- Moncur Memorial Church was completed in 1955 The interior is austere yet welcoming ing. Herring boat heading to sea ly acquired North Strynie, as the area was previously Herring fishing Stronsay called. Although Dutch and was used as a seasonal base Herring boats had used for Herring boats and this the village as a base every association with the "Silver year, perhaps since as early Darling" was to continue as Norse times, there was no until 1937. real local fishing industry apart from Lobsters and By the early 20th century, some Cod fishing until local Whitehall Village had people started to invest in become one of the Herring boats around 1814. Until

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about 1721, perhaps after visiting Paris. The shallow coastal waters, with gently sloping beaches and the long coastlines make Stronsay and Sanday, good places for shore weeds, which can be cut from the rocks at low tide (tang) and deeper weeds (ware) which get washed ashore after storms

The Boom lasted for fifty Up to 300 steam drifters crammed Whitehall of a Sunday during the season in the early 1900s The Old Fishmarket is now an interpretation centre, cafe and hostel years from 1780 to 1830, it burnt down in 1937. attacked and sank what he tained for the duration of the ending when cheaper Stronsay hold Redshanks, for tired and hungry birds, There were so many boats took to be an armoured war. Lemp was not court- sources of potash and soda Snipe, Shovellers, Teal and making it one of the best tied up on Sundays in July cruiser off Ireland. martialled for his error, but became available. The Pintail, and a few islands to visit at migration and August that it was possi- neither was he promoted industry made fortunes for a Corncrakes still nest here. times. The bays and wet ble to walk across them to His target was in fact a from the field, as were many few landowners, but also Although the island is most- areas are good for waders ! Exploitation 13,500-ton passenger liner of his contemporaries. He supported a large number of ly cultivated, the headland and waterfowl while the gar- of stocks on this scale could carrying 1,103 civilians, met his death in an incident people and aided the rapid of Rothiesholm is moorland dens of Whitehall and the not last and the fishery including more than 300 that had far worse conse- changes in agriculture which and is a delight for the bird- several small areas of shrub- effectively ended by 1937. Americans hurrying home quences for the U-Bootwaffe happened first in Stronsay watcher with several species bery are attractive to passer- ahead of the clouds of war. and the Reich than the sink- and Sanday. Kelp-pits can of Gull as well as Shags, ines. Migrants can turn up The Fishmarket is now an This case of mistaken identi- ing of the Athenia - the cap- be seen around the shores in Auks, Fulmars, Ravens and anywhere but the east coast interpretation centre, café ty set in motion a large-scale ture of U-110 and its Enigma many places in Orkney. Arctic Skuas. The low cliffs tends to be best. The Bird and hostel. It tells the story cover-up on the part of the machine Of the Athenia's Stronsay has excellent near Burgh Head are also Reserve at “The Castle”, of Herring fishing on the Reich, and had far-reaching passengers and crew, 112 examples at Grice Ness good places to see birds. run by John Holloway turns island with many artefacts consequences both for the were killed (93 of them pas- (HY670281) where well- Puffins nest in this area. up several national rarities and interesting displays. subsequent conduct of the sengers) in the initial explo- preserved pits, drying areas each year along with a good On the west side of the har- U-boat war, and for some of sion or died later as a result and a ruined cottage can be Migrants Stronsay is an selection of scarce migrants. bour there is an unusual the key players in the affair - of the sinking. seen and at Latan excellent island for bird- stone-built public toilet dat- Lemp, Dönitz, and Raeder. (HY631222) where there are watching, being well situat- During spring and early ing from the 1930s, which is Kelp-making Burning of more clearly defined pits. ed to attract migrants in summer, the bays are worth reached by a narrow gang- The pretence that U-boats seaweed to make kelp was spring and autumn. Its a look for migrant and resi- way, and is flushed clear by had had nothing to do with introduced to Orkney by Wildlife The several small diverse range of habitats dent waders. Wheatears nest seawater. Athenia's demise was main- James Fea of Whitehall lochs and marshy areas on provide both cover and food along the shores and Nearby an upturned boat- Lifeboat from “SS Athenia”, sunk by U-30 in 1939 Burning kelp was a smoky, messy business Sea-washed toilet at the west side of the village house is one of the lifeboats from the passenger ship S.S. Athenia. The first incident of the U-boat war occurred just hours after the declara- tion of hostilities between Britain and Germany on September 3rd, 1939, when Oberleutnant Fritz-Julius Lemp, commanding U-30,

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Walks Stronsay offers St Catherine’s Bay There is STRONSAY SERVICES much for the walker. Here an access road and car park are some suggestions, some (HY645262) near the school. Getting To Stronsay Orkney of which are waymarked The beach and links offer Ferries, Tel (01856) 872044 and Loganair (not Sundays) Tel “official” trails. pleasant walking, especially (01856) 872494 operate daily serv- of a fine evening. There are ices to the island from Kirkwall. Odin Bay to Houseby wonderful wildflowers here in Depending on the schedule it is possible to travel between Eday, From the car park near summer. Sanday and Stronsay. Please refer Kirbuster the Vat of to their latest timetables for details. Kirbuster is a short stroll. Grice Ness The peninsula Where to Stay and Eat on The low cliffs of Odin Bay east of Whitehall makes a fine Stronsay Stronsay Hotel in lead to Burgh Head. The stroll in early morning or late Whitehall Village, bedrooms all en- suite, bar and restaurant Tel path follows low, but spec- evening with its relics of the (01857) 616213, Fish Market tacular cliffs, with many Herring Fishing, kelp burning Cafe (open daily), B&B and self- caves and geos, to Lamb and a chambered . There catering is available on Stronsay. Head and the Bay of are fine views to Papa Please check the latest “Islands” and VisitOrkney brochures. Houseby. Return via the Stronsay and over Mill Bay. Stronsay Car Hire and Taxi DS Houseby farm road to the Peace Tel (01857) 616335 main road and thence to the Holland Farm to Tor Ness Shops and fuel Whitehall Post Office, Ebenezer Stores, Olivebank car park at Kirbuster Park at Holland and take the General Merchant, Boondatoon path to the shore at Mells Kirk Petrol Station. Aerial view of Stronsay from the south with Sand of Rothiesholm and St Catherine’s Bay Sand of Rothiesholm and where there is a hide to Baywest From the car park observe seals. A bird hide on Meadow Pipits on the field numbers on the cliffs while (648) and the of Huip (HY633247) near the kirk- Shea Loch can give good STRONSAY margins, while Redshanks Mallard and Teal breed 1,123). Sty Taing (1,283) on yard walk along the beach views of wildfowl and waders ATTRACTIONS and Lapwings like wetter around the Meikle Water. the west side of Links Ness and cross the road to the and perhaps an Otter. The “by the sun” places. Oystercatchers pre- (HY615296) is perhaps the Loch of Rothiesholm. Visit path continues to Tor Ness fer the drier fields and shore. In autumn and winter most accessible large Grey Whitehall Village the broch at Hillock of and the Sand of the Crook. A Old Fishmarket Fulmars are plentiful along migrants are the main attrac- Seal colony in Orkney. Baywest, and then follow small colony of Grey Seals Lower Whitehall and Grice Ness the cliffs. There is a large tion. The usual autumn Ayre of Myres the shore from Bight of became established here in Great Black-backed Gull migrants are Song Thrush, There are a number of major Well of Kildinguie Baywest, passing the cham- 1994. There is a chambered colony on Rothiesholm Redwing, Fieldfare, Ring Grey Seal haulout sites Mill Sands and Mill Bay bered cairn of Kelsburgh on cairn at Ward of Houseby and Moncur Memorial Church Head as well as Bonxies and Ouzel, Whitethroat, Lesser around Stronsay. The best the way. Return to the road Benni Cuml is a large broch The Castle Bird Reserve Arctic Skua.s. Auks and Whitethroat, Black Redstart, places in summer are Jacks Meikle Water near Blan Loch. mound. Kittiwakes nest in small Garden Warbler, Blackcap, Reef, Grice Ness, Odness, Odness Vat of Kirbuster Goldcrest, Ring Ouzel, Lamb Head, Tor Ness and Aerogenerator on Rothiesholm Burgh Head Yellow-browed Warbler, Greenli Ness. Well over To make a Lamb Head Benni Cuml, Houseby Red-backed Shrike and 1,000 adults haulout at these booking call, Barred Warbler. In the past sites around Stronsay. Sand of Rotheisholm Allen and Carol Rothiesholm aerogenerators few years several rare pipits Cooke Hillock of Baywest and buntings have turned up. In June Common Seals pup Kelsburgh chambered cairn 01857 616473 The best sea-watching loca- in considerable numbers St Catherine’s Bay 01857 616213 tions Lamb Head. around the island, especially Sands of Odie Seals Both Grey and at St Catherine’s Bay, Greenhill, Huip Common Seals frequent the Baywest, Lamb Head, Holm of Huip STRONSAY HOTEL Oyce of Huip Stronsay coasts and bays. Odness and Grice Ness. St Peter’s Chapel Many Grey Seals (2003 pup Adults may be seen at these “The Stronsay Hotel the island’s Hotel, Restaurant and Pub, giving Papa Stronsay numbers) are born on Linga and other sites throughout the place a unique quality of warmth and and friendliness. Good Earl’s Knowe Holm (3,240), Little Linga the year. quality, home cooked food is the house specialty.” Golgotha monastery St Nicholas Chapel site

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NORTH ISLES - PAPA STRONSAY PAPA STRONSAY - THE LITTLE ISLAND OF THE PRIESTS e i

The remains of the small r w

chapel of St Nicholas o T d (HY670292) were recently r u g i

excavated. It was originally S built in the 11th century and in the 12th a chancel was added. Eventually it was used as a shed before being mostly demolished in 1792 to build a barn.

A cross-slab was discovered St Nicholas Chapel under excavation around this time with the inscription “d(omi)ne d(ei)” which dates from the 8th cen- tury, but is now lost. The excavations have revealed an earlier building which may be an 8th century Pictish Aerial view of Papa Stronsay and Whitehall church. The discovery of a PAPA STRONSAY (ON hiding on the shore by the ern shore during the peak of piece of green porphyry, Papa in Litla, Little Isle of barking of his pet dog and the fishery. In the season at which comes from Greece the Papae), or Papay, was killed. Thus ended the rival- least 1,000 people were and seems usually to be associated with ecclesiastic where Earl Thorfinn had ry between the two Earls and employed on Papay alone. Sunrise over Papa Sound Earl Rognvald Brusison Thorfinn ruled on as sole buildings in Scotland, as Redemptorist congregation MacIver’s fish curing shed killed in 1046 while the lat- Earl for nearly another 20 The very large mound well as possible cells sug- was entrusted with by Pope is now the Holy Face ter was fetching malt, per- years. known as the Earl's Knowe gest the probable presence Pius IX.” Building and includes the haps from the monks, for (or Knoll, HY668292), on of a monastery here in chapel. Traditional cheese- Yule. The The island has extensive the southwest of the island is Pictish times. The monks have built 24 making, using milk from a relates that Rognvald was in remains of the Herring days probably a chambered cairn, new cells, renovated the Big small herd of Jersey is a house on the island and with a stone quay and parts while there is a burnt In 1999 the Transalpine House, now renamed St now a part of the life of the leapt out through the door of several iron piers, as well mound, Easterhouse Knowe Redemptorists bought the Michael’s House for use as monastery. disguised as a monk, after as a tramway and curing (HY665300) beside Mill island and re-established the the refectory, kitchen and and are also kept. being found by Thorfinn and sheds. There were five cur- Loch. monastery, naming it tool shed, while the former his men. He was revealed ing stations lining the south- Golgotha Monastery. “The island provides a home St Nicholas chancel Cross-slab found near the chapel e i

Golgotha Monastery from Whitehall Pier base for the contemplative r w o

part of their lives, but the T d r

other half of their vocation u g i

is to give missions all over S the world, preaching God's Word and providing the sacraments. The apostolic aim of the Congregation is to draw sinners from their life of vice and set them on the road of virtue. They spread devotion to Our Lady of Succour, whose image the

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NORTH ISLES - LINGA HOLM & SMALL ISLANDS AROUND STRONSAY

AUSKERRY (ON Austrsker, East Skerry) is a small island 3 miles south- east of Stronsay with a remarkable number of archaeological remains. There are several Standing Stones (HY672164), the largest of which is 2.5m high, and evidence of sever- Aerial view of Auskerry from the southwest al broken stones, an excel- lent Burnt Mound (HY673163) and a number Aerial view of Linga Holm from the southwest of house sites, including a LINGA HOLM or THE The island’s main claim to Linga Sound is a very shel- Prehistoric House HOLM OF MIDGARTH fame, however, is that it is the tered anchorage and was (HY872169), Bronze Age (ON Lingsey, Ling’s Island), home of the Stronsay Fairies, marked as such on old charts. Houses (HY677164) with lies to the east of Stronsay, and whose names are Alex and Although secure for ships remains of field dykes and is now maintained as a Dolax, Gimp and Cork, once at anchor in St possible Iron Age houses “SS Hastings County” went ashore at Hunters Geo in 1926 in thick fog wildlife reserve by the Keelbrown and Horny. At Catherine’s Bay, negotiating (HY674164). The ruins of a Scottish Wildlife Trust. It is clipping time the men would the entry without local knowl- small Chapel are also pres- only grazed from August to sit around a fire at meal times edge is hazardous due to reefs ent, with walls still standing December to remove rank and throw morsels of potato and shallows which extend (HY679160). vegetation and encourage wild over their left shoulders and from the North Taing. flowers and other interesting say “Here’s to thee, Alex, then The 34m-high plants. Small Adder’s Tongue over the right shoulder Here’s The Swarf, a large drying was first lit in 1866 and went Fern and Waxcap fungi grow to thee Dolax", and so on. skerry to the southwest is automatic in 1961. It was here. The island is a major especially dangerous and built to help guide ships into breeding site for Grey Seals, The potatoes had always dis- remains unmarked today. places of shelter and to warn accounting for about 7% of appeared when the men got There is a shallow channel of the dangerous tidal waters South Geo has a small jetty but is exposed to the west UK pups - over 3000 per up, but it was bad luck to turn between it and Linga Holm, of the Stronsay . The The island is designated as ing to make a modern house. annum. around and see who took and the main entrance is to the jetty at South Geo was con- them. The author’s grandfa- south side of the Swarf. Many an SPA on account of its The keepers’ house at the structed to land all the mate- Arctic Tern (780 pairs) and lighthouse is also used in There are several remains of ther used to practise the ritual sailing ships fell foul of the rials. On 13th June 1926, the settlements, including Bronze on family outings to the island seemingly straightforward Storm Petrel (3,600 pairs) summer. 4,178-ton ship SS Hastings breeding colonies. The Age houses (HY612277) on and he always insisted that the entrance. County went ashore below There are several standing stones Gimmis Skerry Point and potatoes really did disappear! shores are mostly rocky with the lighthouse in thick fog. low cliffs and shingle beach- south of the sheepfold She was Norwegian-owned (HY617275), an Iron Age St Catherine’s Bay - looking towards Linga Holm from Stronsay es with boulders, while the and bound from Hamburg to land is low-lying and rela- roundhouse (HY612277) east Montreal with general of Oxna Geo and a probable tively flat with marshy areas cargo. Two-thirds of this and some peat. Pictish House on the southern was saved, including two shore (HY616271), where large motor yachts, but a fire several interconnected cham- One family now live part of broke out in the after hold on the year on Auskerry and bers and an entrance passage th September 26 and an east- keep nearly 300 North facing the sea can be made erly gale on 25th October out. Traditionally there was a Ronaldsay sheep there. broke up the ship. Wreckage They have a small wind tur- small chapel on the island but is still strewn along the it can no longer be found. bine to provide power and shore. have renovated an old build-

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