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ETHIOPIA: Birding the ‘Roof of Africa’ a Tropical Birding Custom Trip

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ETHIOPIA: Birding the ‘Roof of Africa’ a Tropical Birding Custom Trip ETHIOPIA: Birding the ‘Roof of Africa’ A Tropical Birding Custom Trip October 29 – November 18, 2011 Guide: Ken Behrens All photos taken by Ken Behrens during this trip TOUR SUMMARY This was a highly successful trip both in terms of endemics and total number of birds encountered. We found all the Ethiopia and Abyssinian endemics save the scarce Linneated Pytilia and, of course, Nechisar Nightjar. We racked up 565 species of birds, another excellent total for this tour, which consistently scores some of our highest trip lists in Africa. We also notched up 44 mammals, a surprisingly high total for a country that is well off the main ʻsafariʼ circuit. We had excellent encounters with all of Ethiopiaʼs most sought-after endemics such as the bizarre Stresemannʼs Bush Crow, a communal cooperative ʻwhite-crowʼ, and the enigmatic and spectacular Prince Ruspoliʼs Turaco. In the highlands, we found one of the worldʼs tamest rallids, the dapper Rougetʼs Rail, which shares its moist highland habitat with the delicate Spot-breasted Lapwing, the fiery-throated Abyssinian Longclaw, and the strange Blue-winged Goose, an offshoot of a group of South American waterfowl. Another great bird that we found in the south was Sidamo Lark, which might actually be one of the most beautiful Ethiopian birds in its own cryptic way. Other more common, but no less impressive endemics we sighted include the Thick- billed Raven, endowed with a bill that looks like it could open a tin can, the dapper Black-winged Lovebird, striking Banded Barbet, and the audacious White-cheeked Turaco. In terms of rare and unexpected birds, this tour was also a success. In this department, we had Long-legged Buzzard, Imperial Eagle, Ayresʼs Hawk-Eagle, endangered Saker Falcon, a trio of rare plovers: Pacific Golden-Plover, Black-bellied Plover, and Greater Sandplover, Eurasian Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 Curlew, more than 10 Star-spotted Nightjars, Green-backed and Scaly-throated Honeyguides, Black-crowned Sparrow-lark, Black Cuckoo-shrike, Purple-banded Sunbird, Magpie Starling, Salvadoriʼs (Juba) Weaver, a whole flock of Abyssinian Crimsonwings, Long-tailed (Exclamatory) Paradise-Whydah, and perhaps most surprising of all, several indigobirds in Gibe Gorge that were clearly not Village Indigobirds, and were likely Pale-winged (Wilsonʼs), based on their vocalizations and the presence of the host species (Bar-breasted Firefinch). The weather was one of the most notable features of this tour. In the north, it was dry, but due to the recently concluded rainy season, the countryside was green and lush, and the local people were harvesting grain using picturesque and seemingly timeless methods. The south was experiencing heavy rains during our visit, which created some difficulties in getting around, but more than compensated us with a chance to see this normally dry environment clothed in greenery and bursting with birdsong. This was a custom tour for a group of friends from the United States. A large proportion of the tours run by Tropical Birding are custom trips, as the company offers great flexibility and reasonable prices for this kind of trip. Though custom, the route and duration of this trip were very similar to our normal set departure tour. The one exception was a different return route to Addis which cut out Nechisar National Park and spent more time in the central Rift Valley instead; a last- minute change that we made in response to heavy rain in the south and the doubtful condition of the road in that park. The beautiful and scarce Red-naped Bush-Shrike made a good showing on this tour. With lots of rain in the south, these guys were active and very responsive to tape. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 ITINERARY October 29 Addis Ababa to Debre Libanos area October 30 Jemmu Valley October 31 Ankober Escarpment. Afternoon at Melka Ghebdu November 1 Ankober to Awash NP November 2 Awash NP November 3 Awash NP to Bilen Lodge November 4 Bilen Lodge to Bishangari Lodge November 5 Bishangari to Abiata-Shalla NP November 6 Langano to Wondo Genet November 7 Wondo Genet to Bale Mountains NP November 8 Bale Mountains NP (Sanetti Plateau) November 9 Sof Omar (day trip from Goba) November 10 Goba to Negele November 11 Negele November 12 Negele to Yabello November 13 Yabello November 14 Yabello November 15 Yabello to Lake Awassa November 16 Awassa to Bishangari Lodge November 17 Bishangari to Addis Ababa November 18 Gibe Gorge. Evening departures. Northern Carmine Bee-eater with Great White Pelicans behind. A typical Rift Valley lake sight. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 PHOTO GALLERY Follows tourʼs chronology Dusky Turtle-Dove is common even in Addis Ababa. This is certainly one of the best-looking members of its genus. Abyssinian Longclaw (left) and Rueppell’s Chat (right), a pair of endemics that are easily found on the northern mountain massif, north of Addis. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 A massive male Gelada: a ferocious-looking vegetarian with a vocabulary second only to that of humans! A beautiful charaxes butterfly (left) and a male Black-winged Bishop (right) in breeding plumage. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 The timing of this tour just after the rains meant that the always beautiful Ethiopian landscapes were even more spectacular with a carpet of green grass and tawny grain. It is hard to imagine a more spectacular setting for birding than the edge of the Ankober Escarpment. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 We enjoyed close views of a small flock of the endemic Ankober Serin. While searching for the serin, several good raptors cruised by, including this massive Verreaux’s Eagle. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 We enjoyed watching this odd and spectacular couple of a Kori Bustard and a Northern Carmine Bee-eater stalking through the grasses of Awash National Park. The bee-eater made periodic sallies to catch insects scared up by the tromping bustard. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 An adult and juvenile Blue-breasted Bee-eater at Melka Ghebdu. Fan-tailed Ravens abound in Ethiopia, especially in rocky country. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 In the Awash region, we found scarce species like the Arabian Bustard (left) and Madagascar Bee-eater (right). Although the Arabian Bustard has a large range, it is under heavy pressure throughout most of this range, and Ethiopia is now probably the best place in the world to see this large and impressive bustard. A Somali Fiscal surveys the arid grasslands of Awash. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 We found some great Sahel birds in the Awash region: Black Scrub-Robin (left) and Scissor-tailed Kite (right) A beautiful male Chestnut-backed Sparrow-lark. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 We had a mega night drive in Awash. One of our prizes was this Three-banded Courser. Another great sighting on that night was not just one, but over 10 Star-spotted Nightjars! Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 A road-killed camel along the road to Bilen attracted 100s of vultures, an amazing spectacle. The dead camel drew in a few Lappet-faced, which are impressive in flight but even more so on the ground when their massive bill and brooding presence gives them an obvious superiority over the other vultures. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 The great-looking White-headed Buffalo-Weaver is very different from other buffalo-weavers. Sunset at Lake Abiata, where we found this flock of 1000s of White-winged Terns along with a bunch of rare shorebirds. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 The Bale Mountains were particularly green and beautiful after the recent rains. Blue-winged Goose (left) is a resident endemic, while Lesser Kestrel (right) is a migrant from the Palearctic. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 Salvadori’s Serin was easily found at Sof Omar, during our day trip from Goba. Palearctic migrants like this Pied Wheater (left) are always a great part of an Ethiopia tour. The resident species like this White-bellied Go-away-bird (right) are also wonderful! Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 An Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove. These iridescent spots are not usually so easy to see! Red-and-yellow Barbets were active and vocal amidst the greenery and flowers of the rainy south. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 We found a pair of fine larks on the Liben Plain: Sidamo Lark (left) and Somali Short-toed Lark (right). The normally parched south was lush and green, the air scrubbed clear and clean by the recent rains, and the sky full of billowing clouds. It was magical to see southern Ethiopia like this. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 Shelley’s Rufous-Sparrows stealing some chicken feed! The highly localized African White-winged Dove (left). This one had lost all of its tail save one feather. Scaly Chatterer (right) is always tricky to find. Ethiopia: Birding the Roof of Africa Oct 29 – Nov 18, 2011 Bristle-crowned Starling (left) and Somali Courser (right). A herd of gerenuk. This elegant but improbably proportioned antelope is always a joy to watch.
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