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Come with Us on a Three-Day Sea-To-Source Walk Following the Most Spectacular River in the Lake District…

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Come with Us on a Three-Day Sea-To-Source Walk Following the Most Spectacular River in the Lake District… DISCOVER The Esk Valley The riverwild From the shimmering Irish Sea to the highest mountains in England: come with us on a three-day sea-to-source walk following the most spectacular river in the Lake District… WORDS: NICK HALLISSEY PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY THE GREAT ESKAPE The dramatic early stages of the River Esk in Upper 30 COUNTRY WALKING AUGUST 2016 Eskdale, with the mighty peak of Bowfell behind. The Esk Valley Moss DISCOVER at re G Source of the Esk HIS IS THE story of a river. When we planned this special issue devoted to walking by water, we knew we’d have to cover lakes, coastline, canals, waterfalls; we’d look at tarns, ponds, reservoirs and islands. But what we really wanted, to set the whole party off, was a river. A river we could follow on foot from one end to the other, telling its story as we went. A river we could make friends with. And somewhere round the back of the Lake DAY 3 District, we found it. It’s called the Esk. Upper Eskdale is definitely the ‘back’ of the Lake oor s rnm tone Eskdale District. It’s one of the least visited valleys in the Bu ci rc national park, mostly because it takes a long time le s to get there. It’s right out on the western frontier, locked off from civilisation by the Scafells and the Coniston fells. The quickest way to get there (unless you happen to live on the west coast of Cumbria) is the drive from Ambleside via the Wrynose and Hardknott passes – purveyors Lingcove B rid of some of the hairiest motoring in England. ge But if, like Dante or Odysseus, you can make that journey through the wilderness, what a paradise awaits on the far side: a valley of pAGAINST immense beauty, superb hills, and a tranquility Getting around THE FLOW unmatched almost anywhere else in the Lakes. We decided to walk the Esk from sea to source. Going sea-to- And stitching it all together is the Esk. Sometimes it’s great to go from source to sea, but in source turns the ½ Esk into a thrilling DAY 2 At a mere 15 miles from its source among the this case the start of the Esk is so remote that it would detective story. Eskdale Green Scafells to its estuary in the Irish Sea, the Esk is feel odd to do a huge walk to get to it (along the Esk the to Woolpack the perfect length for a three-day walk. And what whole time), and then reverse course back along the river. Inn a walk it will be: castles, pubs, waterfalls; little Instead this is a detective story; a search for the source. Woolpack Inn hills and giant mountains; remote stone circles As with all river trails, logistics are a bit of a thing. (actual start point) and the cutest miniature railway in the country. But Eskdale has a very helpful secret weapon: ‘Ratty’, You’ll walk beside the Esk, across it, through AKA the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway. it, and high above it. You can even pause for So on Day 1, park your car at the Woolpack Inn, Eskdale Green ILLUSTRATION: a paddle or a swim in it once or twice. in the depths of Eskdale, and ask if you can leave So this is our river; our new best friend. it there for two days (they should be fine with this, We think you’ll love it too. as you’ll be using the pub at the end of Day 2). R a v HALL STEVEN e n g l DAY 1 a THE ESK s Woolpack to Ravenglass s (via Ratty); Ravenglass & RIVER E to Eskdale Green s k TRAIL d a l e R a i l MUNCASTER FELL w a caster y un Cas M tle Then walk a mile to Dalegarth station, uDay 3 starts at the foot of Hardknott Pass. p ALL ABOARD! and catch Ratty all the way to the coast at This is a full-on mountain day, an 11-mile epic The Ravenglass and Ravenglass Ravenglass, where the Esk meets the Irish Sea. which climbs through Upper Eskdale, across Eskdale Railway, u AKA ‘Ratty’, helps Day 1 tracks the Esk inland from its estuary, the mighty sweep of Great Moss and up to the with the first part climbing high above it on Muncaster Fell, before source, before knocking off the river’s parent of the journey. dropping down to the Bower House Inn at Eskdale peak of Esk Pike for good measure. Green for the night. (This is the only day when So as we advise on the routecards (Walks 13-15 you need overnight stuff in your rucksack.) this issue), don’t set out on the trail if you’re uDay 2 follows the Esk east across Bleatarn Hill, not happy with the big challenge of Day 3. through the village of Boot and along the riverbank But if you’re still with me, let’s get going. back to the Woolpack Inn. Because this is brilliant. u AUGUST 2016 COUNTRY WALKING 33 DISCOVER The Esk Valley Day 1 ANY WALK THAT starts with a steam train has Up next is Muncaster Castle. The ancestral seat p A RIDE to be a good thing. So after a quick leg-stretch from of the Pennington family for more than 800 years, ON RATTY the Woolpack to Dalegarth, it’s a joy to climb the castle is an impressive bastion, and the route The Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway aboard ‘Ratty’ and trundle your way to the sea. passes through some of its glorious gardens. has a proud 100-year ‘Ratty’ is short for ‘La’al Ratty’, meaning ‘little There’s always something going on at the castle in history, and its staff railway’ in Cumbrian dialect. It opened as summertime, from craft shows and owl displays includes over 100 a narrow-gauge railway in 1915, replacing to the famed Jester Festival (see panel, below). eager volunteers. a 3ft mineral line which had been closed And then it’s on to Muncaster Fell; t A GARDEN five years earlier. Since then it has a three-mile ridge which separates OF WONDERS become one of the most popular Eskdale and Miterdale. You may The parkland of tourism assets in the Lake recently have seen it being Muncaster Castle District – and a useful aid for churned up by Chris Evans was conceived as walkers. Alfred Wainwright and Matt LeBlanc in an ill- a ‘wild woodland’, alive with azaleas (a fervent enemy of the advised venture for the new and rhododendrons. ‘motor car’) used Ratty series of Top Gear. Make sure to access the hills of you tell the hill that Richard Eskdale when compiling his Hammond (a keen walker Pictorial Guide to the Lakes. and lover of the Lakes) would He was even moved to write never have let that happen. a separate book dedicated to The top of Muncaster Fell u THREE VIEWS the line, titled Walks from Ratty. is your first bird’s-eye view of FROM DAY 1 It’s the perfect introduction to Eskdale. Now the task is clear – Walking beside Eskdale, the valley you’ll be calling get up that lush valley and into those the Esk estuary home for the next three days. As it rattles mountains at the head of it. The biggest (top); the view from along, you get a real sense of the closeness and one you can see is Scafell, the second highest peak Newtown Knott tenderness of the valley. Steep-sided, flat-bottomed in England. But as you’re round the back, it looks across the estuary and the Irish Sea and (in summer) very, very green, this is a refuge for nothing like Scafell. That’s the joy of being round (centre); and the walkers with an aversion to tourist-trap towns. the back of things. Everything’s a surprise. gorgeous traverse And at Ravenglass, there’s the sea. Bright, The day ends with a languid descent into Eskdale of Muncaster Fell shimmering and Irish. Three rivers all emerge here: Green and a brief detour into Miterdale, where the (bottom). the Esk, the Irt and the Mite, all tipping out into Bower House Inn makes the perfect stopover. a vast sand dune incised by competing channels But don’t worry. There’s plenty more PHOTO: of freshwater and seawater. To find the Esk, you Eskdale to come. u need to turn south round the headland. And there ISTOCK it is, a marshy estuary framed beneath the distant fells of Whitfell and Black Combe. Being marshland, it’s a kind of eerie half-world; Tom Fool you’re as likely to find heaps of tiny desiccated Marry, i’faith and odds bodkins. The International Jester Festival takes crabs as you are wildflowers and sea beet. place at Muncaster Castle each May, and it’s a unique celebration of Sadly it becomes impossible to follow the merriment and foolery. The funniest japester is awarded the title Fool of Muncaster and officially becomes the new jester of the castle. The festival Esk riverside after the estuary, as there’s no path. is a modern phenomenon, but it harks back several centuries to when But it would be a dull affair just following the the jester was one Tom Skelton. It’s thought he was the first entertainer bank anyway; we want to see it from all angles. to call himself Tom Fool (hence, ‘tomfoolery’) and he may have been the So the best alternative to is to climb high above inspiration for Shakespeare’s Fool in King Lear.
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