Urban Farmers Change the Sourcing Landscape

A NEW LEAF Urban farmers change the sourcing landscape

THE UBER-IZATION OF STAFFING DAN BARBER’S NEXT WAVE OF SUSTAINABLE FARMING THE ANALYTICS- DRIVEN RESTAURANT

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RESTAURANT HOSPITALITY • VOLUmE 101, NO. 3

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4 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017 New is What We Do

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The trademarks Cholula, the Cholula bottle design and the Cholula label design are owned by and used under license from the trademark owner, Salsas de Jalisco Cacu, S.A. de C.V. Contents MARCH 2017

FISH TALE Oceana chef Bill Telepan on how to source and properly cite sh.

FEATUREs DEPARTMENTs the ability to ofer digital-based FOOD & DRINK 49 delivery 28 40 TREND WATCH 11 High Tide for Seafood Small Plates A New Leaf The Next Big Thing Ruling Clarifes Rest Break Rules Tese shareable dishes are Restaurants go truly local with the rise of urban Jackfruit steps into the California court: Workers on a getting customers to bite 49 farming spotlight; the rise of robots 11 rest break can’t be on call 29 Beets Come Out From 46 4 Elements of Mindful Underground The Uber-ization of Staffng Restaurant Design Recognizing the Signs of Embezzlement Telling a story with décor 15 Get three ideas to work with Mobile apps match temporary workers to the How to deal with employee this root vegetable 53 need of operators 30 Musk to Grow ‘Real Food’ fraud Concept Next Door RAISINg THE bAR 54 Fify units planned by 2020 Spotted across America’s heartland 18 Beautiful objects to light up Sippable Sweets your restaurant 31 Encourage Diners to Indulge SOLUTIONS 23 Operators are turning to IN THE KITCHEN 32 54 Spreading the Gospel dessert drinks of the Analytics-Fueled In the Kitchen with Bill Telepan Restaurant STIR 60 Damian Mogavero points Championing seafood to data as a missing secret transparency 32 One-Track Mine ingredient 24 Town Hearth ofers opulent 60 LEADERSHIp 34 whimsy Noted Chef, Baker Seeks Change Ex-employees Revive IN EVERY ISSUE Chelsea Corner With Better Bread How they brought back Hewn Bread’s Ellen King leads Editor’s Letter 8 a 43-year-old Dallas rebirth of heritage grains 34 Ad Index 57 neighborhood spot 26 Dan Barber Serves Up Helping Independent the Farm ON THE COVER Pizzerias Go Digital Blue Hill chef makes cover 54 Slice ofers smaller operators crops the star of the menu 36 Photography: Freight Farms

WeBsIte restaurant-hospitality.com tWItteR @RH_restaurant FACeBooK RestaurantHospitality

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 7 FROM THE EDITORS restaurant-hospitality.com @RH_restaurant RestaurantHospitality

Te New Farming Revolution LISA JENNINGS Associate Executive Editor hef and restaurateur Dan Barber Indoor urban farming has grown tremen- of Blue Hill in New York doesn’t dously in Asia, particularly in Japan, where C think about food in terms of single concerns about radiation contamination ingredients. in Fukushima prompted the government He thinks about the entire ecosystem of the to embrace the technology. Toshiba and farm. And he thinks about how the farm fts Panasonic reportedly have turned unused into a larger regional agricultural system. warehouses into indoor growing systems, and Across the country, in Illinois, baker Ellen the practice has taken of. King of Hewn Bread is supporting local farm- Now the movement is growing in the U.S., ers by creating demand for heritage grains, in part aided by the legal-in-some-states the type used before hybridization for max- marijuana industry, which has prompted As the urban imum yield changed the bread and farming interest in fnancing indoor-growing systems. landscape. Needless to say, pot is a potentially high- Tese are examples of foodservice leaders er-proft crop than lettuce. farming who are rethinking the way they source Others see opportunity in the fact that we ingredients, which has become increasingly will soon have billions more people to feed. industry grows, important across the industry. Dickson Despommier, a professor at Consumers are demanding food that is not Columbia University Medical School and the restaurant only delicious, but also local and sustainable. author of the book “Te Vertical Farm: Tey want to feel connected to the source. Feeding the World in the 21st Century,” told Chefs want lettuce that has not been sitting the publication Sustainable Brands that it industry must on a truck for days, rapidly losing quality and may take time for urban farms to win social freshness. Tey want to support their local acceptance. play a role. farmers; to shake their hands and feel a sense Tere is an “overalls versus lab coats” ten- of trust. sion, farmers say. A new farming revolution could ofer But Despommier sees urban farming as “a another solution. big industry waiting to happen.” Across the country, a small army of urban Someday, it may be commonplace for a farmers are bringing the feld into cities in restaurant in mid January to enjoy the profts indoor greenhouses and shipping containers. from a proprietary salad blend picked that It’s not a replacement for traditional farming, morning and delivered by bicycle from a but a supplement that could help make the shipping container a few blocks away, with freshest of local produce available to more little to no carbon footprint. restaurants year round, without using pesti- But as the urban farming industry grows, cides or herbicides, or even soil in most cases. the restaurant industry must play a role. Te technology allows urban farmers to Just as Dan Barber tends his soil, I hope to recreate the notion of terroir by tweaking the see restaurateurs and chefs across the country nutrients fed to plants. Arugula, for example, help nurture the rise of urban farmers and can be made more or less spicy, according to a what could be a new ecosystem of real food chef’s wishes. available year round to all.

8 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017

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Jackfruit Steps BY THE Into the Spotlight NUMBERS

Jackfruit has appeared on food trend roundups for the past couple of years, but this tropical fruit % hailing from South and Southeast Asia could ﬁ nally make mainstream menu moves in 2017. 46 With increased consumer interest in meat alternatives, jackfruit is ﬁ nding a place on THE NUMBER the menu. OF CONSUMERS

▶ CONDADO, a two-unit Mexican concept in LIKELY TO TRY Columbus, Ohio, offers BBQ pulled jackfruit JACKFRUIT AT as a taco ﬁ lling option. Owner Joe Kahn told A RESTAURANT the Columbus Dispatch that when cooked, SOURCE: DATASSENTIAL the tropical fruit is reminiscent of pulled pork.

▶ FÜD, a vegan restaurant in Kansas City, Mo., serves a jackfruit Reuben and Jack BBQ. % On its website, the restaurant says jackfruit is a better option for customers who are avoiding soy and 1 wheat, along with meat. THE GROWTH ▶ PAULIE GEE’S, a popular pizzeria in Brooklyn, N.Y., includes jack- OF RESTAURANT fruit meatballs on its Jackie Green vegan pizza. The pie is also topped with vegan WINE SALES tomato sauce, basil and vegan mozzarella cheese. IN DOLLARS

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NATIONWIDE WIZ WIT? The eponymous Philly % cheese steak sandwich, THE PHILLY CHEESE STEAK, once a staple has found solid footing only in the Philadelphia area, is having a na- all the way to the 47 West Coast. tional moment. Restaurants from coast to coast OF CONSUMERS are putting their own spins on the beloved sandwich. In the San Francisco Bay Area, the Waffl e Amore SAY THEY CAN’T food truck serves a Philly Cheesesteak Waffl ewich, which GET THROUGH sandwiches the meaty, cheesy fi lling in a waffl e instead of a MOST DAYS traditional hoagie roll. In Tucson, Ariz., Frankie’s South Philly WITHOUT A Cheesesteaks is an homage to the sandwich. In addition to SNACK a classic take on the cheese steak, it offers a salad inspired SOURCE: THE HARTMAN GROUP by the original. And in the hometown of the Philly cheese steak, Wiz Kid is serving a vegan version with seitan and

TOP: BDSPN/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK; BOTTOM:EZUMEIMAGES/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK BDSPN/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK; TOP: rutabaga Wiz in lieu of meat and cheese.

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 11 TREND waTch THE NEXT BIG THING

Gen Z craves authenticity Millennials have been the darlings of consumer trend-watchers for some time, but the younger Gen Z cohort — those born after 1995 — is gaining increasing attention. This next generation of consumers is especially tuned into technology and brand authenticity. An iris Worldwide study reveals how you can attract them: Focus on infuencers. The opinions of shared community members are key to members of Gen Z. Brand efforts should align with the group’s values. Position your brand as a lifestyle. Gen Z continues to connect with brands after leaving their four walls. Instead of focusing on a single dining occasion, think of ways to extend the brand experience. Go where they are. More than any generation before them, Gen Z lives online, with social media a vital tool. Make sure to connect with them on platforms like Instagram and Snapchat. Keep it simple. The optimal Gen Z dining experience is facilitated by technology such as mobile ordering and kiosks. Make the process as easy as possible for customers eating in and taking out. AuTOMATRON Pyramid Ale Taproom customers can turn to Pepper for menu advice.

THE RISE OF ROBOTS

Meet PePPer: She’ll be your host recommendations and directions to their gate. at the Pyramid Ale Taproom in Oakland Inside the taproom, Pepper can suggest menu International Airport. The catch? Pepper is items tailored to customer tastes and offer a robot. details on the restaurant’s craft beers. HMSHost and SoftBank Robotics America The companies that have partnered on Pepper have partnered to bring Pepper to life. The say that in previous pilot tests at restaurants, 4-foot-tall, human-like robot can give travelers she has helped increase foot traffic and

and restaurant customers assistance, menu enhanced the customer experience. HMSHOST RIGHT: BANANASTOCK/THINKSTOCK; LEFT:

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4 Elements of Mindful Restaurant Design Telling a story with décor

estaurant designs that create an out-of-the-ordinary guest experience are top of mind for DC-based designers David RTracz and David Shove-Brown of //3877, a design frm in Washington, D.C., that’s behind the design of the spaces of Momofuku’s D.C. location, Matchbox, Territory Kitchen + Bar, Capitale, 3 Stars Brewing and more. “More mindful design is going to tie into the defnition of space and the use of space,” Tracz said. //3877 co-founding principals David Tracz and David Shove-Brown have some defnite ideas you can use about what makes modern restaurant spaces dynamic, exciting and inviting. Mindfulness is the attitude that will move these changes forward. “More mindful design is going to tie into the defnition of space and the use of space,” Tracz said. Here are four lessons in mindful restaurant design from these masters of the craf.

1. Create multiple experiences When //3877 were approached by Te Matchbox Food Group to rebuild a historic Washington D.C. building and open the group’s ffh restaurant, the design team took the 1907 former jazz club down to its skele- ton. Within those bare bones, a few diferent dining experiences began to take shape. “People want to have diferent experiences and come back for more experiences,” Shove-Brown said. “All sorts of diferent elements are at play: it’s about BUOYANCY Matchbox offers diners a new eating the food, the service, the seating, what the experience with seating in foating glass boxes.

PHOTO: THE MATCHBOX FOOD GROUP menu looks like…what do you smell? What

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 15 TREND waTch DESIGN

SPACE CRAFT Momofuku’s D.C. location balances traditionally masculine and feminine design elements such as colorful murals and concrete. do you hear? Maybe you’re there grabbing a drink with friends or maybe you want a smaller booth for a date or dinner with a friend. Multiple groups can have diferent experiences in the same environment.” At Matchbox, one very diferent way to experience a meal is perched inside one of two “foating” boxes, glassed-in seating areas that are a conversation piece in and of themselves, and ofen a sought-afer reason to return. 2. Repurpose with a purpose People want to have dierent Tracz and Shove-Brown recommend staying away from a “forced history” décor. experiences and come back for Examples include tacking up reclaimed wood and adding tchotchkes that aren’t more experiences. related to the story of the dining space. — DAVID SHOVE-BROWN, //3877 “What we’re starting to see in the design world is getting away from a faux history things for a more practical purpose, as in there’s a movement towards something and going with the real history,” David taking an old door and making a counter that’s a little more sophisticated, a bit more Shove-Brown said. out of it. Te key to using antique décor is thought-out and in some cases a little more “Don’t get a bunch of little trinkets from to frst have a true story to go with it. architectural in design.” a second-hand store. Most people are “Don’t just litter the place with pseudo Tracz said while there’s a defnite move thinking, ‘Did they really dust those?’” antique signs you found,” Shove-Brown away from predictable trends, don’t expect Tis distinction is leading to the end continues. “Find one real sign and make it to see them go away entirely. of reclaimed wood as a trend, because, about the location.” “People will still go for the safe bets as Shove-Brown said, it became “fake Location-specifc items will be the sign of of rough walls and Edison bulbs,” he reclaimed.” great design moving forward. said. “But I think the ones who are more Instead, as the design team put into “You can do a Southern-infuenced thoughtful are going to see it’s blend of the action at Matchbox, it’s better to use old restaurant in New York, and you can refer- look and feel that really compliments the ence ties to both locations in the design,” food. If the food is sophisticated, why not Shove-Brown said. have more sophistication in the design?” david Shove-Brown’S deSign pet peeveS 3. Add more sophistication 4. Use color, but in a subtle way There needs To be enough seaTs aT The Balancing traditionally masculine style All-white walls have their appeal. bar. “You want to have enough for people to wait elements, like the austere and streamlined Certainly, the public is infuenced by at the bar, not so crowded that people say, ‘Screw concrete and wood of Momofuku with T.V. shows that feature house makeovers this, I’m outta here.’” (Alternatively, you don’t want more traditionally feminine elements (a whitewashing everything in a very safe, the bar to look too empty as to make the place look colorful mural) is a way to make the space predictable way. But more color could be unpopular.) feel right, Shove-Brown said. on its way, and not a moment too soon. Make The flow of The resTauranT clear. “It’s the balance of diferent types of “I think color is going to make a come- Diners need to know where to go when they enter materials that makes that work,” he adds. back,” Tracz said. “Tere may be a lot more a restaurant. “Have a host stand where it’s evident Has farm-to-table dining gone too far in hints of colors rather than a huge accent what to do. You want people to feel comfortable,” he infuencing design? wall. Maybe it’s the chairs, or the underside said. Also, avoid the hallway to get to the bathroom and kitchen. “It’s a total disaster zone. Now you’ve Tracz thinks so. of something. It’s more subtle. Like the got a busser carrying a tray full of dishes and a “I think now we’re starting to see a move- inside of a doorframe where people will walk person trying to fnd the bathroom.” ment away from the over-casual farmhouse in and say, ‘Is the side of that pink?’”

look; I’m just tired of it,” he said. “I think — tara Fitzpatrick STABILE GABRIELE PHOTO:

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1. With qualifying case purchase. 2. Datassential, Independent study, October 2015 ©2017. TABASCO® and the Diamond Logo are the exclusive property of McIlhenny Company. TREND waTch sourcing Kimbal Musk’s Next Door Concept Builds Local Supply ‘Real food’ restaurant plans for 50 new units across America’s heartland

A New BleND Next Door identifes as “urban casual” a mix of dine-in and digital to go.

imbal Musk, co-founder of including delivery using tech-based third- enabling folks to recreate the dining expe- Te Kitchen Restaurants, plans party services like UberEats, DoorDash rience in their home with really quality to grow his casual “real food” and Postmates, said Musk. to-go products.” K restaurant concept Next Door “We think we’ve created a new category Musk is focusing on America’s heartland American Eatery across the U.S. heartland. called urban casual, which is a blend states to grow Next Door, in part because Musk, a technology entrepreneur, between dine in and digital to go,” he said. it’s good for business. “Te people are warm is known for his full-service concept Traditional fast-casual restaurants at and welcoming,” he said. “Te economics Te Kitchen bistros, with locations about 2,000 square feet, and casual dining are fantastic. Te landlords are great to in Colorado, Tennessee and Chicago, restaurants typically sized between 5,000 work with. It’s a restaurant owner’s market.” founded with chef Hugo Matheson and Jen and 10,000 square feet “are not doing well Concepts like this are plentiful in cities Lewin in 2004. right now,” he said. like New York and Los Angeles, said Musk. In 2011, the group launched a more “We have found a real niche with But in Middle America, there’s a real casual variation of Te Kitchen called Next 3,500-square-foot restaurants with good- unmet need for restaurants ofering this Door, now with three locations, which sized kitchens and about 100 seats,” he kind of “real food,” he said. Musk plans to expand with the goal of said. “Close to 25 percent of our business is By “real food,” Musk said he means reaching 50 units by 2020. to go,” though mostly pick-up. made-from-scratch menus ofering “food Next Door has a menu of soups, salads, And the to-go business is growing. you trust to nourish your body, nourish burgers and daily specials and a full bar “We saw 80-percent growth in to-go the farmer and nourish the planet.” with beer and wine on tap, with a price last year,” he said. “We designed our entire A member of Chipotle Mexican Grill’s range of about $15 per head. menu to focus on ofering a great in-store board of directors, Musk has long been a Te concept has also found a balance dining experience and being an amaz- proponent of sourcing sustainable ingredi-

between dine-in and to-go business, ing gathering place for Millennials, and ents. He’s also on the board at Tesla Motors PHOTOGRAPHY: NexT DOOR AmeRicAN eATeRY

18 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017 AT A GLANCE: NEXT DOOR AMERICAN EATERY

LOCATION Two in Denver, one in Boulder, Colo. Fourth scheduled to open in Memphis, Tenn., in May.

GROWTH Goal is to open 50 units by 2020 in Middle American states. OWNERS Kimbal Musk, Hugo Matheson and Jen Lewin. CONCEPT Urban casual “real food” with focus on local sourcing and a blend of dine-in and digital to-go business. MENU Known for its kale chips as appetizer, salads, sandwiches, burgers and bowls. Full bar with kegged beer, wine and cocktails. PRICE RANGE FOR ENTREES $8 to $12

and SpaceX, companies founded by his Tier 1 suppliers are physically local with THE REAL THING Next Door co-founder Kimbal brother Elon Musk. produce or baked goods coming from the Musk describes “read food” as food people can trust to nourish them, the farmer and the planet. Consumers are demanding more community. Tier 2 includes suppliers that transparency about the food they eat, and may be some distance away but with whom scaling a restaurant concept with direct ties the group has a close relationship, like La to open over the next six months, he said, to its suppliers remains a challenge, he said. Quercia cured meats in Iowa, for example. including No. 4 in Memphis, which will “It’s about knowing the farmer or the Tier 3 includes ingredients “of the back of a open in May. beef supplier and how that cattle was truck, like any restaurant might use,” he said. Musk is conducting an equity fundraiser raised,” he said. “In the industrial food Next Door is aiming to get 60 percent to support the planned growth. system, there is no trust.” of ingredients from Tier 1 and 2 suppliers, He declined to of er specif cs on sales at T e Kitchen Restaurants, however, has and 80 percent at T e Kitchen, said Musk. existing units but said the group has seen built a supply chain that allows for the kind T at focus on ingredients is a key “phenomenal growth.” Across three loca- of growth Musk has in mind. dif erentiator for the group. T e Kitchen tions in Denver, the concept serves about “We’re in Colorado and we have to f nd Restaurants, for example, also uses produce 10,000 guests a week, he said. f sh from f shmongers in Seattle or Maine,” such as arugula from vertical farmers using Musk said the group employs more than said Musk. “But it takes years to build the new technologies, like growing fruits and 600 people and has sourced millions of dol- kind of relationship where we can truly vegetables in shipping containers. Musk lars worth of food from American farmers, trust the product, and to build that rela- is also co-founder of the vertical farming helping to strengthen local food economies. tionship with customers so they trust us to startup Square Roots that creates the “But we’re only getting started,” he said. make decisions for them.” equivalent of two growing acres inside a “We won’t stop until real food becomes the T e group looks at suppliers in terms of climate-controlled 320-square-foot module. new normal.” tiers, he said. Six locations of Next Door are scheduled — Lisa Jennings

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 19

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tEchnoLogy REViVaL opERations staffing ManagEMEnt pRoducts The secret ingredient: Inside the return of Technology lets California clarifes Learn to recognize Let there be light: Why data is vital to a 43-year-old Dallas independent operators expectations for the signs of Modern fxtures blend restaurant success neighborhood spot add digital delivery employee rest breaks embezzlement form and function

PHOTOGRAPHY: SLICE PHOTOGRAPHY: p. 24 p. 26 p. 28 p. 29 p. 30 p. 31

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 23 solutions technology INVISIBLE INGREDIENTS

The book takes readers on an “Underground Culinary Tour” of restaurants that are Spreading the Gospel of the using data in innovative ways. Analytics-Fueled Restaurant Restaurant software wizard Damian Mogavero fogo do cHÃo predicts meat needs points to data as a missing secret ingredient At the Brazilian churrascaria customers’ behavior. chain Fogo do Chão, historical Te title “Te Underground statistics on hourly demand Culinary Tour” is a reference to determine how much meat the an actual tour Mogavero used all-you-can-eat concept should to conduct with industry search prepare, down to details as frm executive Alice Elliot, taking specifc as how many steaks CEOs on a 15-restaurant tour to put on a skewer. During over 25 hours. Te book instead peak hours, for example, three takes readers on a tour of certain pieces of picanha per skewer restaurants to show how they’re go out to the dining room. At using data in innovative ways. of peak, only two slices per “Te book reveals the magic skewer, to ensure what’s served behind the scenes. And one of is hot of the grill and juicy. the invisible ingredients is data.” Tese are details that trans- late directly to the bottom HarraH’s uses data line, said Mogavero, and they infOrmaTiOn OvErlOrd restaurant data champion damian mogavero to spot training needs are vital for all restaurants, says operators are becoming “more equal parts creative and math focused.” At Harrah’s Entertainment in from big chains to one-of Las Vegas, for example, sales mom-and-pops. amian Mogavero is a restaurateur-turned-sofware data showed how one server But the restaurant industry executive on a mission to convince independent named Alana sold many glasses has been slow to adopt data restaurant operators to use data. of wine, but no bottles. A con- analytics, he said. D It’s not an entirely selfess mission. versation with Alana revealed “Tis is a very artistic industry,” Mogavero is founder of the sofware company Avero, which that she was terrifed of opening he said. “One of the challenges collects restaurant data. And he is author of the recently released bottles at the table, a problem is whether you’re more artist or book “Te Underground Culinary Tour: How the New Metrics of that was solved with a little mathematician. What I see in Today’s Top Restaurants Are Transforming How America Eats.” training and confdence build- the marketplace is a new gen- But Avero is just one in a growing number of restaurant tech- ing. Te result: an immediate eration that will be more equal nology companies that give restaurant operators tools for tapping improvement in sales, Alana’s parts creative and math focused.” insights from menu sales trends to inventory management. tips and the guest experience. Consumer trends once Mogavero’s message is that restaurants now have a torrent of took years to develop in the information available to help them improve their businesses. All tracking weatHer restaurant industry, he added. they have to do is learn how to use it. for incremental sales Now, with social media, con- It’s a fundamental shif in thinking that Mogavero hopes opera- Te restaurant Navy Beach in sumer demands change within tors will take to heart — especially independent operators who are Montauk, N.Y., tracks weather months, and restaurants need more used to running on gut and intuition. to determine stafng and to be nimble, he said. “People think technology is for big companies, but that couldn’t inventory needs. When the Rising food and labor costs be further from the truth,” he said. weather is nice, the restaurant are also forcing restaurants to Within the industry, the list of data believers includes a number noticed that sales drop because become more efcient. of prominent names, including Danny Meyer, Tom Colicchio, people were out on the water. “Technology must and is play- Daniel Boulud, Giada De Laurentiis and Wolfgang Puck. So the restaurant bought a ing a key role to optimize the Mogavero calls those operators the “New Guard,” restaurant com- dinghy and ofered pick-up bottom line and provide a great panies that have revolutionized their operations by paying attention service, ferrying in guests from guest experience,” he said. to measurable insights, staying on top of trends and watching their their boats and nearby beaches. — Lisa Jennings PHOTO: Edward SimOn

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Bringing Back a 43-Year-Old Neighborhood Spot How Chelsea Corner returned to the Dallas dining scene interview on Chelsea Corner’s now-enclosed patio. “We stayed with the rule that every decision we made was on whether it would be as relevant in 20 years as it is today, be that from process or culture or looks or the food. It has to stay re l e v ant .” Some things that harken to the past include a foor plan that is familiar to the Chelsea Corner or yore, but modern- ized to improve trafc fow and to accommodate a modern kitchen and other amenities. “We purposefully decided to go over the top with the bathrooms,” Camillo said. “We have four independent bathrooms women’s restrooms, and the blAst FroM the pAst Chelsea Corner frst men’s room is updated.” opened in 1974. It was recently renovated and Critcher, who created and updated with a new menu and technology. sold a sofware company in 2011 before undertaking his venture into the bar and he owner and creative team behind Dallas’ Chelsea Camillo, who like Critcher restaurant business, said Corner have resuscitated a neighborhood spot that, afer worked at the original Chelsea Chelsea Corner’s electronics closing for several years, sprung back in December afer Corner in the 1990s, said the span lighting, televisions and Tfrst opening 43 years ago, enduring a move 15 years ago demographic ranges from 20s sound that are operated by and then spending several years of the dining scene. singles to neighborhood stal- touchscreens. He also owns the “Tis neighborhood was really looking for something that was warts in their 60s and 70s. beverage-only Inwood Tavern fun and a little bit upscale,” said Len Critcher, Chelsea Corner With the idea of paying in Dallas, located near Tracy owner and driving force behind the revival. “It’s a bar with great homage to the past, the year- Rathbun’s Shinsei Restaurant. food and a neighborhood vibe.” long reconstruction of Chelsea Te restaurant serves lunch Te 180-seat spot, which frst opened in 1974 and welcomed Corner had to modernize both Friday through Sunday and back customers with fresh surroundings in December, now fea- the operations and the menu, dinner daily. A brunch menu tures state-of-the-art technology, completely renovated décor and Critcher and Camillo said. started in early February, also a menu from noted local chef Kent Rathbun. “You have to be relevant to created by the Rathbuns. Critcher said he’d long been friends with Rathbun, and brought today,” Camillo said in an “Te goal was always the him and his wife, Shensei restaurant co-owner Tracy Rathbun, to oversee food and front-of-house operations. “Anytime you do a revival, you want to pay homage to what the “Anytime you do a revival, you want to original was,” said Chris Camillo, an investor in the project and longtime friend of Critcher. “Chelsea Corner was a lot of diferent pay homage to what the original was.” things to a lot of diferent people. Tere was a real diversity of ChrIs CAMIllo, Investor

people coming in here.” photo by ron ruggless

26 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM march 2017 same,” Tracy Rathbun said, the 1970s.” and that was: “to create a Having seasoned restaura- menu inspired by the orig- teurs on the creative team also inal Chelsea Corner, which gave Critcher some leverage includes burgers, pizza, and with the landowner in leasing additional items that are the space, he said. easy to eat when you’re “Kent Rathbun has become sitting with friends at a bar. a dear friend. He’s a minority Chelsea Corner is defnitely a partner with Tracy,” he said. “I scratch-driven menu that is needed someone who knows approachable yet has a food. I say surround yourself chef’s twist.” with the best people you can, Pizza, burgers and fsh and they will make you look and chips remain the menu really good.” Kent Rathbun mainstays, Critcher said, but oversees the kitchen and menu, other additions play to more and Tracy Rathbun consults on modern tastes. He said the front-of-house operations, a team is even considering spokeswoman said. something like ceviche for a “Bringing them in was crit- lighter ofering to appeal to ical,” Critcher said. “It helped 21th century culinary tastes. steer a lot of my decisions so “We were known for great I didn’t make big mistakes, pizza, and we just had one size,” whether it was kitchen design Menu MoVes chelsea corner’s menu includes classic items, like pizza he said. “We wanted to have a or a menu that made sense. and hummus, with updates to appeal to contemporary diners. basic menu with approachable Critcher said the new items. To be a neighborhood Chelsea Corner management helped longtime customers at Corner Bar for 15 years,” he place, we needed food that also hired some of the employ- adjust to the new look and said. “You fnd those that are could be eaten two or three ees of the neighborhood menu, he said. good employees and deserved times a week. Te pizza had spot, called Corner Bar, that “I was deliberate in hiring the chance to come back home.” asiago cheese as well as moz- had built a following at the a few of the bartenders from And Chelsea Corner will zarella. Tastes were diferent in location. Tose familiar faces Corner Bar. One had worked be expanding a little more. Critcher said he has purchased land next door to create an outdoor patio now that the former seating area has been enclosed. Critcher, who had worked in Los Angeles as a flmmaker before returning to Dallas in the late 1990s, said doing a restaurant revival has simi- larities to making successful movie sequels. “People want to see a story,” he said. Besides a solid structure, he said, “You have to cast it well. I cast it with the Rathbuns.” And now the Chelsea Corner team, which has created a neighborhood playground for grownups, is banking on a very KeePing the classics the team’s goal was to create a menu inspired by the original chelsea corner, which long run.

Photos thisPage courtesy of chelsea corner featured items like pizza and burgers that were easy to eat with friends at a bar, said tracy rathbum. — Ron Ruggless

march 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 27 solutions OPERATIONS

tion marketing by sending Helping Indie Pizzerias Go Digital users emails reminding them to order again, or push notif- LA Pizza works with pizza-focused platform Slice to compete cations with deals or coupons. with tech-focused chains “Once you place an order from your favorite pizza place, every time you come back, the experi- uan Rivera’s six-unit LA Pizza concept in the Los Angeles pendent pizza operators like ence is catered around that,” Sela suburbs does a brisk delivery business. LA Pizza, but those services said. “You can reorder the same About 60 percent of LA Pizza’s business comes from are not available in all markets. thing as last Tursday, or you J delivery orders for pies like a 36-slice Mega Pizza. “We focus on partnering can try someplace new.” But independent pizzerias like Rivera’s have long struggled to with pizza restaurants in the For pizza restaurants, compete with big, tech-forward chains like Domino’s and Papa suburbs and small towns of there are no upfront costs John’s, which have made digital ordering a breeze for customers. America,” said Ilir Sela, who and no set-up fees, Sela said. In a way, Domino’s and Papa John’s have trained consumers not founded Slice in 2010. “Te Restaurants pay a transactional to call for pizza delivery anymore: It’s just too easy to order online other delivery guys do a great fee of about $2 per order. or by app. job in dense urban areas, but Te beneft is fewer phone But now, Rivera is working with a third-party partner to ofer when you get out of the big calls for delivery orders, but its own delivery technology. LA Pizza uses Slice, a technology and cities, local guys don’t have customers also tend to spend marketing platform dedicated to independent pizza operators. access to these tools.” more when they order online. While restaurants have a host of ordering platforms to choose Slice, which as has partnered “Te customer has the abil- from, such as DoorDash and Postmates, Slice is the only provider with about 6,000 restaurants ity and the luxury of perusing dedicated solely to pizza. Slice gives customers the option of across the country, is available the menu and not feeling ordering delivery and paying ahead via mobile app. It also powers in every state. Independent like they have to rush of online orders from a restaurant’s Facebook page without the use pizza operators tend to use the phone,” Sela said. “Pizza of Messenger. Just like Domino’s and Papa John’s, Slice users can their own delivery drivers, so places can be busy on a Friday build and customize their own pizza. Customers pay ahead and it’s not about being a courier night and the person answer- get a confrmation, as well as an estimated of arrival time. Later for food. It’s more about building the phone is in a rush and this year, Slice will add a tracking feature. ing loyalty, Sela said. it’s loud. Tey don’t have the Other third-party delivery providers help consumers fnd inde- Slice does customer reten- time to upsell. But when you order online, you don’t have that kind of chaos.” Rivera loves that Slice takes some pressure of phone orders. And although about 60 percent of LA Pizza’s delivery customers pay with cash, Rivera said he likes that operators can choose for payments processed by Slice to be paid out weekly, biweekly or monthly. Rivera chose the monthly payment, which means he has money coming in at the end of the month to pay utilities and other bills. “Tat’s just how I do it, but to me, it’s a good combination,” he said. “I get the cash I need, PIzzA PArtnEr the Slice platform enables independent pizza operators in suburbia and small town America to and I also save for the end of cash in on the many customers who prefer to order online or by app instead of by phone. the month.” — Lisa Jennings IMAGES: SLICE

28 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017 solutions STAFFING

“If a restaurant employer expects that they will carry Ruling Clarifes Rest-Break Rules their cell phone or beeper, and California court says workers on a rest break can’t be on call it if is expected that they will respond if a call comes, then there’s the expectation of work,” said Keyes. To be prudent, employers should afrmatively tell their employees they don’t need to have their phones or other devices with them while they go on break. Workers should not feel they have to respond or to be available in any way, she said. If employers must require workers to be on call, even during breaks, they have the option of rescheduling breaks if there is an interruption, or paying the one-hour penalty for a missed rest break. Employers can also seek an exemption if they can show an on-duty rest break would not materially afect the welfare ON HOLD To eliminate “the expectation of work” during rest breaks, the California Supreme Court ruled that or comfort of employees, but workers aren’t required to answer calls or texts from employers. Precedents set in California often spill over to would cause undue hardship other states. on the employer. Best to con- sult legal counsel, said Keyes. f a server goes on a rest break for 10 minutes and there’s a spill activities, during a break. Employers should also make in the restaurant, can a manager text the server to ask:“Where’s In the case Augustus et sure all written policies and the mop?” al. v. ABM Security Services handbooks are compliant with In California, unless that worker’s rest break is rescheduled, Inc., the Supreme Court in the court’s ruling. Ithat text could constitute an interruption that could be a violation of December ruled that security While the ruling applies to state law, according to a recent ruling by the state Supreme Court. guards could not be required workers in California, Keyes Employers in California should not expect nonexempt work- to wear pagers or beepers said the decision has gotten a ers to be on call — or even tethered to a device — during their during rest breaks or to lot of attention. 10-minute work breaks. be prepared to respond to With the new admin- With California as a trendsetter, it’s a worker protection emergencies during that paid istration in Washington, issue that could potentially come up in other states, said labor 10-minute period. additional worker protections and employment attorney Judith Droz Keyes of Davis Wright Te court found the issue at the federal level are not Tremaine in San Francisco. was not whether the guards expected for several years, she Tough only nine states have rest-break provisions, California even received a page or a said. Terefore states have is the frst to address what can be considered an interruption of a call, or even whether they become more cognizant of rest break, especially in a world where workers are so connected responded. Te issue was the labor issues. by smartphone. employer expectation that they “States are going to become Te ruling in California is a response to an unanswered ques- should be on call, said Keyes. more active, and it may very tion in the 2012 case involving Brinker Restaurant Corp. that For a restaurant employer, well be this decision raises an made clear the denial of one or more rest breaks in any workday that means workers need to be issue that hasn’t been thought entitles workers to a statutory one-hour penalty payment. Lef considered wholly on break, about, but it may be now,” unclear, however, was the question of whether employers could and not expected to respond to she said. expect workers to be on call, or to restrict their movement or calls or texts for example. — Lisa Jennings PHOTO: WAVEBREAKMEDIA/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK PHOTO:

march 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 29 solutions MANAGEMENT

lot more opportunity to handle Recognizing the Signs cash and receipts, create phony fraud triangle vendor companies and use of Embezzlement company cards for personal How to deal with employee fraud purchases.” OPPORTUNITY before it gets out of hand to catch a thief

Te only way you’ll know PRESSURE if there’s a thief among the ranks is by performing regular RATIONALIZATION checks and audits. “Te owner should have Donald Cressey, author of “Other a frm hand on all activities, People’s Money,” said embezzlement often results from three conditions he change shifs and responsibil- calls the “Fraud Triangle”: A person ities, and a frm hand on the feels fnancial pressure, sees an cash and checkbook,” Bronster opportunity to take advantage of said. “Other recommended his or her position and is able to tactics include paid professional rationalize that he or she is owed the money and is not a criminal. spotters, and, of course, security cameras, especially at the bar.” Braden Perry, a regulatory minate them.” an you aford to lose 5 percent of your revenue each year? and government investigations If you suspect an employee Tat’s how much money, on average, the typical attorney with Kansas City, of stealing, your frst instinct organization loses annually to fraud, according to the Mo.-based Kennyhertz Perry, may be to confront them, but Association of Certifed Fraud Examiners. LLC, said: “In order to identify Kennedy suggested planning CMichael Young, executive chef at Sheraton Kauai Resort in Kauai, potential white-collar crime, a your next move carefully. Hawaii, says he’s learned to look for signs of fraud the hard way. company must systematically “Te emotional impact of “I’ve fred numerous people over the years for thef and embezzle- look at each of the areas that employee thef on a business ment, the worst of which was fve years ago, when I realized the bar most ofen cause problems and owner is huge,” Kennedy said. tills weren’t matching the inventory at the standalone bar I owned. I implement practices that are “You feel victimized, angry, hurt went through the dumpster and found proof of destroyed tickets and designed to avoid motivating and embarrassed. Have an thef from a bartender that thought his needs were greater than mine.” individuals to prey on you.” outside representative, such as Unfortunately, restaurant embezzlement most frequently occurs A key problem area: a CPA or attorney, approach in small, independent restaurants, where there’s a high level of Accounting. the employee about the fraud trust, according to Jay Kennedy, assistant professor of criminal “Simply monitoring employ- and give them an opportunity justice at Michigan State University. ees and ensuring a system for outs.” of oversight will lessen the Overall, practicing vigilance Recognize the SignS likelihood that a normally and consistency among your “If you suspect something is going on, it probably is,” said Bruce compliant employee will be staf is the frst step on the road Bronster, hospitality partner at the law frm of Windels Marx Lane tempted into a crime of oppor- toward a thef-free workplace. & Mittendorf LLP in New York City. tunity,” Perry said. “Check “A company must be consis- “Tings to look out for are uneven income fows, changes in cash drawers and audit tips tent. Treat everyone the same,” patterns of income or net profts, and odd tipping patterns on regularly, indicating to the staf Perry said. “Don’t allow biases credit cards,” he said. “Other unusual activity can include people that management is overseeing or alliances to shape the way who are adamant about working together or picking certain shifs, accounting, and question any you implement or monitor the shipments paid for that aren’t delivered, and straight-out thef of shortages immediately.” fraud-monitoring program. product, cash or drinks.” Being non-tolerant of ques- In the front of the house, you may see smaller thef occur more appRoaching the SuSpect tionable actions can provide ofen, Kennedy said. “It’s not worth it to call the the consistency necessary to “Tere’s ofen skimming of the register, voiding of tickets and police if the amount stolen is protect the business.” wasting of food,” he said. “As you move to the back ofce, there’s a small,” Young said. “I just ter- — Liz Barrett

% The average amount of annual % The amount of fraud victims who do not refer their cases to law enforcement, for fear of bad publicity. 5 revenue loss from embezzlement 40

Source: Association of Certifed Fraud Examiners photos g-stockstudio/thinkstock photo:

30 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM March 2017 solutions products Spotted Stylish objects to light up your restaurant

1. Mason Jar Pendant, LumaStream Lend a folksy touch to your restaurant with this pendant lighting that incorporates a popular Mason jar design. This lighting extends the casual atmosphere of a range of concepts, from dine-in restaurants to coffee shops and bars. lumastream.com 1 2. Iolite LED Downlight Series, Nora Lighting This modular LED lighting offers versatility and ease in restaurant design. The one-inch downlight, or two- and four-inch adjustable lights, can be installed onsite. They feature square or round trims in a number of fnishes. Decorative touches include translucent collars in blue, frost, amber and red colors, to produce a variety of effects. noralighting.com 2

3. Restroom alert light, Heads-Up Lock Co. This lighting product aims to make your restaurant’s restroom more customer-friendly by indicating with a red 3 or green light whether the bathroom is occupied or vacant. The goal? To get your diners to spend more time in their seats and less time waiting in a restroom line. headsuplock.com

4. Ceiling installation, LightArt Lighting is a work of art at 51Fifteen, a bar and restaurant attached to a Saks 5th Avenue department store in Houston. LightArt, a Seattle-based lighting company, used 180 handmade, blossom- shaped fxtures to create a cascading effect. The lighting is also practical, serving to visually connect the dining space with the retail store. lightart.com — Marcella Veneziale

send product submissions to: 4 [email protected]

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 31 in the kitchen

With food expert Bret Thorn

Championing Seafood Transparency Oceana’s chef Bill Telepan on how to source and accurately cite fsh

currently out of season, and farm-raised Atlantic salmon he Reputable sources from Denmark. suppliers and “The meat on wild salmon’s not as slick as farm-raised distributors salmon, and the fat lines are a little finer,” he said. “You can make a difference, totally tell. And when you rub your hand on [wild salmon], it says chef Bill has more texture.” Telepan. It’s also a matter of using reputable suppliers and distributors, who, by definition, have reputations to live up to, Telepan said. That includes Sea to Table, which connects chefs with fisherman, albeit sometimes at a markup that Telepan said he can’t justify. He also plans to rejoin Dock to Dish, which he belonged to at his former restaurant Telepan. Similar to a community supported agriculture share group, Dock to Dish delivers 50 pounds of whatever fish they happen to catch, “and we wouldn’t know what it was until the night before,” Telepan said. “We would run a cooked entrée and a crudo or other raw appetizer, and whenever we did that the stuff would be gone in a day or two,” he said. “Even if we weren’t that busy, it would fly out.” About A third of fish sold in the United States isn’t Although salmon, chicken and steak always have to be on what its sellers claim it is, according to the conservation the menu, Telepan said, adventurous customers like to try new group Oceana. Tilapia is often marked as red snapper, yellow- things. Up to a point, at least. tail as mahi mahi, mako shark as swordfish, and farm-raised “My [lobster supplier] said, ‘I’ve got a 125-pound opah. Do salmon as wild salmon. you want it?’ So I swapped out one of the crudos, ran it as a Bill Telepan doesn’t think that would happen at his restau- simply prepared dish and then used it in a swordfish [prepara- rant, which is also named Oceana, and is located in New tion],” he said. York City. He took the helm as executive chef in October, Those sold fine, but he cooked the opah cheeks sous-vide and after closing his namesake then pan-fried them. restaurant, also in New York City, “We sold the opah well, but earlier last year. when we added the ‘cheek’ to “I’m not going to try to get one it, it’s a turnoff to some people,” over on people, and we know Telepan said. “But I like throw- what the stuff looks like,” Tele- ing things like that out there.” pan said. “A snapper’s a snapper. It’s also part of the fun of A trout’s a trout.” being a chef, he said. Telepan noted the difference in texture between wild king Bret Thorn is a senior food and salmon from Alaska, which is Chef Bill beverage editor at Restaurant Telepan Hospitality. TOP: PAUL JOHNSON / BOTTOM: NOAH FECKS

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Baker Seeds Change With Better Bread Hewn Bread’s Ellen King leads rebirth of locally grown heritage grains

hen she opened Hewn varieties, types of wheat that were grown On any given day, Hewn turns out 300 Bread in Evanston, Ill., in throughout the U.S. before grain began to 500 hand-formed loaves made from W 2013, Ellen King set out to be hybridized for maximum yield and 100-percent organic ingredients, naturally to make better bread the resistance to pests and diseases, a shif that fermented without any preservatives, chem- way Midwestern bakers did a century ago: starting around the 1940s. icals or additives and baked in a German Hand-forged artisanal loaves made with “For me, as a baker, I like working with oven with a stone hearth and steam injec- seasonal ingredients sourced from small, dif erent varieties,” said King, who is a tion designed to create the ideal crust. local farmers. classically trained chef with a passion for Currently, about 15 to 20 percent of the But in the process of trying to source — and a master’s degree in — history. “T e grains being used at Hewn are heritage vari- only the best ingredients for her bakery, varieties have more diversity, are healthier eties. Whether heritage or not, 75 percent of King has grown into a leader in the grow- for consumers, and sustainable for the all wheat used at Hewn is certif ed organic; ing movement to revive heritage wheat environment.” the rest comes from farms using organic practices that are either too small to certify AT A GLANCE or are working toward becoming certif ed. Among the heritage wheat varieties King HEWN BREAD is experimenting with are Turkey Red and LOCATION Evanston, Ill. Orleans for breads, and White Sonora for pastries. OPEN SINCE June 2013 King describes bread made with Turkey WHO Ellen King (right), co-owner and head baker; Julie Matthei, co-owner Red, for example, as “heartier and earthier” and director of business operations with a good amount of protein and less LOAVES OF BREAD BAKED DAILY 300-500 gluten than the more traditional mass-pro- FAVORITE LOAF King likes the Caramelized Onion Rye. “It’s like a treat. The duced loaves. She said her customers onions add sweetness. I love sitting down and eating a whole loaf of it.” notice and prefer the “silkier taste, gentler 2016 REVENUE (EST.) Declined to provide. taste” of bread made from the Orleans. T e

NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES 18 White Sonora has small yellow f ecks that PHOTOS: HEWN BREAD

34 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017 DAILY BREAD Each day, Ellen King and her team of 18 employees churn out 300 to 500 loaves of bread, much of it bound for 31 restaurants in the Chicago area. Hewn Bread uses as much heritage grain as it can f nd — currently 15-20 percent and growing — and fully 75 percent is certif ed organic. give a mild corn taste to the f our, which are grown,” said King. “I’m in this because local restaurants. works well with pastries. I’m passionate about it and I believe things In addition to selling her loaves from King also believes heritage grains are less should change about how we grow and buy the retail location, Hewn supplies bread likely to impact people with gluten sensi- our grain.” to 31 local restaurants in Chicago and the tivity. In gluten-sensitive circles, a growing King is indeed ef ecting change, however surrounding suburbs. number of people say they are able to eat small, in the grain industry. “Restaurants that work with us have a foods made with heritage wheats without Most recently she began a partnership passion for the ingredients they are cooking,” experiencing their typical symptoms. with Andy Hazzard of Hazzard Free Farm said King. “[It’s] restaurants that want a But accessing grains like these hasn’t in Pecatonica, Ill., which was already pro- unique experience, and our bread is unique.” been easy. viding some wheat for Hewn, to cultivate As more unique varieties of wheat become King had originally hoped to source and rebuild the seed stock of Marquis, a more widely available, Kings said restaurants most of her f our locally, but she couldn’t now-rare variety of wheat that was grown could f nd a bakery to partner with that can f nd enough local farmers growing organic throughout the Midwest in the early 1900s. produce dif erent f avors that could become or f nd the heritage varieties that were once King and Hazzard started in 2015 the restaurant’s signature f our. so prevalent in the region. Instead she has planting just a few pounds of seed, then “T at is one way restaurants can really had to scour the country for farmers willing harvested that for more seed, then planted support farmers and set themselves apart,” to grow organically or to do the painstaking again and harvested that for even more added King. work of cultivating near-extinct varieties. seed. If all goes well, King said this spring’s Trend watchers and food pundits are Like a starter that is fed and maintained plantings will yield 3,000 pounds of seed predicting heritage varieties will be the next daily, King’s diligence to the cause has that can then be shared with other farmers big trend. But King doesn’t see it that way. cultivated a culture of farmers, millers willing to grow it. T en King can have “I like to think this isn’t a trend. Bread and distributors, both local and across the some of the wheat milled into f our. has been with us. It’s the river that connects country, that now produce organic and “To bring this to the masses we need to all of us,” she said. “I don’t think it’s going to heritage grains for Hewn. grow local,” said King. “I’m working from take over, but I think it’s going to be enough “I believe it’s an obligation as a baker the ground up.” of a movement to be impactful.” to be deeply concerned about how things Hewn’s better bread also has benef ts for — Fern Glazer

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 35 LEADERSHIP FARM TO TABLE

Dan Barber Serves Up the Farm

Blue Hill chef makes cover crops the star of the menu

36 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017 Dan BarBer is on a clover kick. cacy: soba noodles. “We’re sautéing it like spinach; we’re Tillage radish, which resembles and making purées; we’re making sauce; we’re tastes similar to a daikon, also plays a role. making broths. I’m doing everything with “It drills way down and loosens the soil. it because there’s so much of it,” says the It rots in the winter and all the microor- chef-owner of Blue Hill restaurant in New ganisms in the soil eat it, and then in the York City and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in spring the soil’s clean.” Pocantico Hills, N.Y. Barber has long been on the cutting edge Clover is a big cover crop in the Northeast, of sustainable sourcing. He named his frst something farmers plant to replenish the soil restaurant, Blue Hill in New York City, afer so they can grow better cash crops. his family’s farm in Massachusetts, and was Barber hopes to turn it into a cash crop already advocating buying from local farm- itself, so farmers can be encouraged to take ers when he opened it in 2000. Tat mission better care of the soil and thus produce was underscored with the opening in 2004 delicious vegetables and grains. of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, a working dairy As a chef, Barber says deliciousness is his farm, educational center and dining mecca. the BIG PIctuRe supporting farms means not ultimate goal. It just so happens that deli- His book Te Tird Plate, published in only buying one or two coveted ingredients, but cious food comes from healthy soil created 2014, explores this broader approach both also fnding uses for the cover crops farmers by farming practices that are good for the to sustainability and deliciousness. plant to replenish the soil, Dan Barber said. environment. He said that in researching the book, he But to say Barber is on a clover kick found that the great cuisines of the world To drive home the point to his custom- might be a stretch. He says it’s delicious, all evolved from regional ecologies that ers that we shouldn’t just be supporting like pea shoots, but more com- “dictated what needed to be local farms or local farmers, but an entire plex, “and sweeter if you get it at grown, and of course the cui- agricultural system, his Farmers Feast a certain time of year.” But the sines mimicked and encouraged menu at Blue Hill currently has a dish way Barber looks at food today that kind of agriculture.” called Rotation Salad. is not about a single ingredient, In the United States, how- Te grain salad includes that tillage radish but about the entire ecosystem ever, European settlers found (fermented in 2 percent salt brine so it tastes of the farm. tremendously fertile soil similar to Japanese tsukemono pickles), “And it’s not the dish; it’s the that didn’t require the clever along with cooked buckwheat, triticale, rye meal. It’s looking at it as the curation that had been devel- and millet. It’s dressed in a vinaigrette made totality of the food experience. oped over thousands of years from another cover crop: milky oats. Tat’s the ticket, and as a chef, “[It’s about] elsewhere. Milky oats are a tough grass and widely and as someone pursuing Tat is until a couple of used cover crop that replenishes the soil, purchasing ingredients, [it’s supporting the centuries of intensive mono- and if you simmer the seeds in water and about] supporting the totality totality of a culture farming of tobacco, then purée them and strain them, you of a region or specifc farming cotton and rice in the South produce a liquid Barber says has “a beauti- landscape.” region or depleted the soil, inspiring ful milky favor.” Tat means that to get good specifc farming both westward expansion “In just the Hudson Valley alone, there’s wheat, you shouldn’t just buy a and what we now think of as so much cover crop grown that it would farmer’s wheat, but the tillage landscape.” Southern cuisines. “Te slaves bury this block in milky oats,” Barber said. radishes used to loosen the DaN BaRBeR, Blue hIll largely brought fertility back Of course, some of that cover crop needs soil, and the buckwheat planted to the South through their to be returned to the soil to nourish it, because its root structure deters fungus. cuisine,” Barber said. Dishes such as but so much of it is grown, that Barber’s “Tat’s why in Japan, buckwheat into Hoppin’ John, or peas and rice, emerged harvest of 2 percent of the tillage radishes rice is a famous rotation, but the Japanese afer enslaved people from West Africa from a 35-acre farm will keep him supplied didn’t take the buckwheat and [make it shared their understanding that soil for two years. into] dog food, like we do,” Barber said. where rice grew needed to be replenished “Getting to know a farmer’s system and Instead, they grind it and make a deli- by legumes, like peas, as well as other their constraints and limitations, but also rotational crops, such as collard greens. their possibilities, is really amazingly inter- “Before 1820, there was no peas and esting,” he said. BacK to BasIcs Dan Barber has long been known for simply prepared seasonal dishes that rice,” Barber said. “It was all rice. Rice was “It’s hard to do, but I’m fguring it out, showcase food’s inherent favor. left, brioche the No. 1 export of the South. We were or trying.”

Photos:thomas Delhemmes; DaN BaRBeR Photo: NeIlsoN BaRNaRD/GettY ImaGes FoR the NeW YoRK tImes with spinach marmalade and ricotta. exporting rice to Indonesia.” — Bret Torn

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RIGHT HERE City restaurants get new access to local produce grown in shipping containers, on rooftops and in old steel mills.

40 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017 As the fArm-to-tAble movement tAkes hold globAlly, The tipping point: Price Te technology is relatively new, but start- A technology-enAbled revolution is brewing thAt ups are popping up across the country could fundAmentAlly chAnge the wAy restAurAnts and poised for growth, many supported by investments by national retailers like source fresh produce. Costco, Whole Foods Markets and Safeway. Indoor farms are popping up in urban however, the indoor versions can repeat the Gotham Greens, for example, boasts more areas across the country promising a wealth growing cycle over and over, 52 weeks per year. than 170,000 square feet of urban greenhouses of short-growing-cycle produce in a way Tese urban farms can produce food with on the roofops of four facilities in New York that is truly local. 95 percent less water than conventional and Chicago — including the roof of a Whole Out of tiny shipping containers, on farms, no run of or soil-stripping issues and Foods Market — producing up to 10 million roofops or in converted steel mills, these food safety can be strictly controlled from heads of leafy greens and herbs every year. climate-controlled farms are producing seed to restaurant delivery in a way that isn’t In New Jersey, AeroFarms recently everything from micro greens and leafy let- possible with acres of land exposed to wild- opened a 70,000-square-foot aeroponic tuces to mushrooms and tomatoes. life, pollution and pests. vertical farm in a converted steel mill in Te produce can be delivered to restau- Early adopter Erik Oberholtzer, co-founder Newark. Te company plans to build 25 rants just hours after harvest and year and CEO of the Los Angeles-based fast-casual urban farms over the next fve years. round. Tere are no variables for weather chain Tender Greens, envisions a not-too-dis- Infinite Harvest, based in Lakewood, or global warming; no need for pesticides tant future where restaurants and distributors Colo., operates a 5,400-square-foot hydro- or herbicides. In fact, in some cases, there’s will be able to tap a network of farmers that ponic farm producing lettuces, arugula, no soil involved. are transforming their communities and cre- kale, basil and other herbs for restaurants Tese farms use hydroponic, aeroponic or ating jobs by reactivating long-dormant mills in the Denver area. Using stacked vertical aquaponic technology. Some are in green- and warehouses as urban farms or collectives. planes, the facility is the equivalent of about houses using natural light and some use “Tis is a disruptor. It is defnitely chang- an acre of farmland, if laid out fat, but pro- shelf-like stacked planes or vertical growing ing the way we relate to food and the way duces 24 acres’ worth of food in a year. walls with LED lighting. One shipping con- we relate to farming,” he said. “Tere are As such companies grow, the price of tainer, for example, can produce as much as those who worship the soil and are very urban-farmed produce has come more in two acres of farmland. Unlike outdoor farms, against aquaponics and hydroponics and line with that of boutique and organic farms, other methods of urban farming. But I’m said Oberholtzer. small buT mighTy space-effcient farming setups, like this one from freight farms, above, allow a believer that there’s room for both tradi- Tender Greens buys from Go Greens restaurants to grow produce in unexpected tional farming and urban farming and we Agriculture, which has a six-acre indoor

Photos: left courtesy of aero farms; toP left courtesy of freight farms; toP right byerik D.groszyk places such as parking lots and under highways. intend to support both as we grow.” hydroponic farm in Encinitas, Calif., and a

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 41 COVER STORY second 14-acre unit under construction in Northern California. Positioned more for the mass market, Go Greens is targeting growth of its farms close to distribution centers. But about 40 percent of business from the Southern California location is direct to restaurants, with trucks delivering within a two-hour driving radius each day. Go Greens is one of only a handful of hydroponic farms certifed organic by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. While organic certifcation for such farms is currently allowed, a task force is considering separate rules specifcally for urban farms “ReAl Food Revolution” Square Roots’ CEO Tobias Peggs says his company, which debuted in Brooklyn, using soil-free technology. N.Y., last fall, plans to build 20 shipping container farms by 2020 in urban areas around the country. Tender Greens also buys from Local Roots, a collection of shipping container AeroFarms at fve or six outlets throughout non-genetically-modifed fruits and vegeta- “TerraFarms” in downtown Los Angeles. the city, said Scheuer, and soon will use bles to the desert community. Unlike most Local Roots is pitching its modular “plug more as AeroFarms expands. Scheuer said indoor urban farms that rely on LED light- and play” farms to universities, hospitals, he hopes to eventually source greens for all ing, Urban Seed uses natural sunlight. Te foodservice distributors and other hospi- 80 of RA’s outlets across New York City. plan is to produce everything from beets tality settings. “Te fact that we can have greens year round and basil to “cucamelons” and strawberries. For the 24-unit Tender Greens, urban is huge,” said Scheuer. “Our clientele loves the Mary Sue Milliken, co-owner of the Los farming will be key as the brand makes its story behind it. Anything to shrink the carbon Angeles-based Border Grill restaurants, move to the East Coast for the frst time footprint, and to bring jobs to an area with low serves on Urban Seed’s culinary board. later this year. Oberholtzer said he’s looking unemployment. Te message is great.” For years, Border Grill Las Vegas has at Gotham Greens to supply future restau- AeroFarms’ greens are slightly more deli- relied on produce trucked from Southern rants in the New York area. cate than conventionally raised products, but California and elsewhere, but those travels “Our vision was always to have a system just as favorful, if not more so, Scheuer said. hurt the freshness and favor, she said. that could scale with the expansion of “Tey can stress the plant to create more Urban Seed was scheduled to start supply- Tender Greens and to grow those ingredi- spiciness. I did a side-by-side comparison ing Border Grill and other restaurants across ents we knew we didn’t want to ship,” he and it was amazing how much spicier the Las Vegas by March. Milliken said she had said. “Lettuces and herbs and the most del- [AeroFarms] arugula was,” he said. high hopes for items like cilantro, which the icate of plants we wanted to grow as close Vertically farmed produce is also cleaner Mexican-inspired restaurant uses a lot of. to the restaurant as possible under the best than feld-raised greens, Scheuer noted. “No “Tat’s a very delicate herb, and if it can be conditions as possible.” one wants to fnd a bug in their salad.” grown two or three blocks away year round And RA has worked with the farm to buy and it tastes great, that’s a win,” she said. As the growers grow a second cut of kale, for example, which But at press time, she hasn’t yet tasted the Marc Scheuer, senior vice president of includes more if the stem-side of the leaf product. “I told them all along that if I detect culinary for New York-based institutional that might otherwise be discarded. a diference in favor, I’m going to go with foodservice provider Restaurant Associates, “We mix it on the salad bar and call it kale the best tasting product, no matter what. If sees urban farms as a supplement to the sprouts. People are all over it,” said Scheuer. the tomato doesn’t really taste like a delicious conventional farms the com- tomato, then it’s not going to work.” pany buys from. Farming in a desert community For these young farms, there will likely be Restaurant Associates In Las Vegas, Urban Seed in July broke a learning curve, she noted. uses greens from ground on a 6,400-square-foot aeroponic As a chef, Milliken doesn’t love the idea of greenhouse that aims to bring locally grown, erasing seasons with a product that can be

“In the future, people might not really have a sense of when pear season or strawberry season is. to me, that’s kInd of a loss.”

MARY SUE MillikEN, BORdER GRill PHOTO TOP COURTESY OF SQUARE ROOTS

42 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017 grown year round. “In the future, people might not really have URBAN FARMING PRIMER a sense of when pear season or strawberry Hydroponic Aeroponic AquAponic GreenHouse season is. To me, that’s kind of a loss,” she said. Plants are grown Plants are grown A marriage of Enclosed facilities “But I can’t look science in the eye with without soil, or in closed-loop hydroponics and with systems any kind of conscience and say it’s silly to eat with very little systems with aquaculture in to control light, something out of season or to take away the soil, using mineral roots exposed which fsh and temperature, soil when it comes to fnding a way to feed nutrient solutions to a nutrient-rich plants are raised humidity, CO2 and 8 or 9 billion people on the planet. And this in a water solvent. mist. There’s no together in one plant nutrition for technology could make that possible.” Only the roots are soil involved and integrated system. maximum crop exposed to the typically LED lights The fsh waste production year Farming in the city solution. are used. provides food for round. Tobias Peggs, co-founder and CEO of the New the plants and the York-based urban farming startup Square plants flter water for the fsh. Roots, sees the urban farming movement as a solution to that larger problem. By 2050, the planet will host some 9 billion people, and 70 percent of them will live in cities, he said. “If these people want real, local food, then we’ve got to fgure out how to grow food in the cities, at scale, as quickly as possible,” he said. Co-founded by restaurateur and tech entrepreneur Kimbal Musk, Square Roots plans to build 20 “urban campuses” of shipping container farms by 2020 in various cities with the goal of empowering a next generation of farmer entrepreneurs that will lead what Peggs calls the “real food revolution.” Te individual farmers sell to restaurants, distributors or direct to consumers. Te frst campus in Brooklyn opened last fall with 10 “founding entrepreneurs.” Te restaurant Egg Shop in New York, for example, supports those farmers by hosting a quarterly “Know Your Local” farmers’ market at the restaurant where customers pack in on a Monday night to have cock- seeDBeD 27-year-old farmer Electra Jarvis comes to Square Roots three days per week. On Wednesdays, she spends four hours meticulously placing 800 seeds inside small troughs. tails made with Square Roots herbs and buy freshly harvested greens. “Tis is less about a food transaction or a food vendor relationship,” Peggs said. “Tis is about collaborating to strengthen community through food, [which is] much more impactful for all concerned.” In Boston, the 49-unit B. Good chain has tapped similar micro farmers. Working with the hydroponic vertical farming company Freight Farms, which ofers turnkey shipping container setups dubbed Leafy Green Machines, the restaurant chain initially tried to set up a farmer next to one of the restaurants, but landlords wanted the farm to pay rent. Instead, the grower found some unused Aeroworks AeroFarms operates a new 70,000-square-foot aeroponic vertical farm out of a converted

PhOtOS: tOP cOuRtESyOF SquARE ROOtS; bOttOm cOuRtESyOF AEROFARmS space under a highway in downtown Boston steel mill in Newark, N.J., as shown in this rendering.

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 43 COVER STORY

A SAmpling of UrbAn where farmer Scott DeLuca set up his shipping fArming SUpplierS container to supply B. Good locations nearby. “It was good visibility and symbolic that AeroFArms you can grow produce anywhere,” said Jon Newark, N.J.-based operator of indoor Olinto, B. Good’s co-founder. aeroponic facilities. For about a year, the chain used DeLuca’s Aerofarms.com kale, which was more expensive than GothAm Greens conventional, but the chain was happy to promote fresh kale smoothies in January Operates more than 170,000 square feet of rooftop greenhouses across four when local greens weren’t available. Olinto facilities in New York and Chicago. said DeLuca was supplying about 75 to 100 Gothamgreens.com pounds of kale per week. squAre roots Ten B. Good, which has long tinkered Meet the FarMers The Egg Shop restaurant hosts with its own attempts at farming, decided to New York-based accelerator that builds regular events to support Square Roots farmers. vertical farms in shipping containers. buy its own conventional farm on an island Squarerootsgrows.com in the Boston harbor. Te company decided walls used by restaurants like Altitude BriGht AGrotech to put all eforts toward that farm, though Chophouse & Brewery, also in Laramie. Olinto did not rule out the use of vertical Designed more typically to be used Laramie, Wyo.-based maker of the vertical farmers in the future. indoors, the restaurant decided to put the hydropnic or aquaponic ZipGrow Tower. Brightagrotech.com ZipGrow wall outdoors against a south-fac- Distributors get into the game ing wall. During the spring and summer, Go Green AGriculture In Detroit, wholesale distributor LaGrasso the restaurant grows basil, cilantro, mint, Encinitas, Calif.-based organic hydroponic Brothers Produce in 2015 invested in a oregano, dill, tomatoes, lettuces and kale, indoor farm serving the Los Angeles area. Leafy Green Machine set up in a warehouse said owner Karen Robillard. Gogreenagriculture.com to produce greens year round. For about three years, the restaurant urBAn seed Tom LaGrasso, chief operations ofcer, leased the equipment. But recently Robillard Operator of aeroponic greenhouses in Las said the company worked with local chefs said they decided to buy it, which she said Vegas that will produce 25 crops. to develop a proprietary mix of lettuces now was roughly $2,000. Te restaurant buys Urbanseedinc.com available 52 weeks a year. seedlings and pays a maintenance fee. A inFinite hArvest It’s sold at a premium, but it augments the general manager does the daily pruning and A 5,400-square-foot hydroponic vertical limited growing season in Michigan, he said. picking and flls the system with water. farm serving the Denver area. “We priced it so it met demand for the Infnite-harvest.com amount we were able to produce. But the Challenges to overcome locAl roots response has been great,” he said. “Consumers Vertical farmer Tommy Romano of Infnite Vernon, Calif.-based builder of indoor really appreciate the story and the sustainabil- Harvest, however, said he shies restau- farms including the hydroponic TerraFarm. ity, along with the freshness and the fact that rant operators away from doing their own Localrootsfarms.com it’s supporting the local community.” growing. FreiGht FArms Some are hoping restaurants will soon be “It’s a good concept to get hyper local. But doing their own vertical farming. I ask them, ‘Are you a chef? Or are you a Boston-based maker of the Leafy Green Machine shipping container units. On a much smaller scale, Smallhold in farmer? You can really only do one,’” he said. Freightfarms.com New York is selling subscription-supported Instead, Infnite Harvest ofers chefs a smAllhold mini-farms to grow mushrooms. subscription to a certain amount of growing Te company has created mini shelf-sized space within his hydroponic vertical farm. New York-based maker of miniature units that can be installed on site at restau- “Tey could pay month to month for X vertical farms for restaurant kitchens. Smallhold.com rants, said Adam DeMartino, co-founder. amount of square feet and grow whatever they Smallhold serves as the nursery to get want,” he said. Te farm also supplies some Grow Pod solutions the mushrooms started and then growing is 200 restaurants around Denver, both direct Maker of “plug-and-grow” vertical farms in completed at the restaurant. Te cost ends and through a local distributor, he said. shipping containers using hydroponics. up being about half the cost of distributor Despite hyperbolic interest from investors Growpodsolutions.com pricing, though he said it varies by type of and futurists, there are still hurdles to over- edenworks mushroom. Te company also sells exotic come, he said. Brooklyn, N.Y.-based operator of vertical mushrooms grown in a shipping container “Tere’s a resistance that some people aquaponic farm that produces microgreens. on the East River. have called overalls versus lab coats,” he Edenworks.com In Laramie, Wyo., Bright Agrotech produces said. “We’re the lab coats, but we’re trying to

vertical farming systems, such as ZipGrow break down that barrier.” phoTo:Top couRTESy SquaRE RooTS

44 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017

jobletics is one of a growing number of hospitality-focused temp agencies making workers available via mobile app.

‘of’ times, when fnding staf would normally be difcult.” The Uber-izaTion Careful sCreening One of the keys to operator acceptance is the screening of workers. of sTaffing “We have to make sure we have the vetting procedures in place so that we are only Mobile apps match temporary workers to the need of operators sourcing the best and brightest people,” said Rahul Sharma, By Mark HaMstra CEO of Boston-based Jobletics, which he said rejects 90 percent he ability to hire temporary staf with a few taps on “When someone calls in sick, of applicants. a smartphone is helping Dimitra Murphy solve her I just plug in what I need, and Potential Jobletes go through labor problem. three hours later they show a vetting procedure that assesses Murphy, the owner of Daddy Jones Bar, a Greek up,” said Murphy. “It has been applicants according to cognitive restaurant and lounge in Somerville, Mass., has been a huge help.” and behavioral criteria as well as T using a mobile app called Jobletics to fnd workers Murphy uses Jobletics — actual labor skills. when she needs them, whether it’s to replace someone whose workers are called “We want to help both sides,” who’s called in sick in the kitchen or to staf a catered event. “Jobletes”— about three or four said Sharma. “We want to help “Tere are times when we’d accept a catering job, but in order to times a month, she said. employers control the turnover do it I would have to put all of my staf on overtime, or take people Similarly, Blake Irving, man- issue, as well as help employees away from the restaurant and be short-stafed,” she said. “But now ager of Black Barn in New York who love the industry to be able I can do it and still be growing my business, without afecting my City, said he uses the temp-tal- to have autonomy and account- dinner operations.” ent app Jitjatjo for both planned ability themselves.” Jobletics is among a handful of app-based solutions that have and last-minute stafng needs. Lauren Gottfried, café man- emerged to help operators fnd temporary workers quickly and “Jitjatjo allows Black Barn ager and catering manager at easily. Te services — similar to the ride-hailing app Uber — lever- to take on additional business Rebecca’s Café at the Harvard age algorithms that match qualifed workers to available positions beyond our normal stafng lim- Graduate School of Education almost instantly. itations,” he said. “We’ve used it in Boston, said she prefers Talent-sourcing apps are rapidly gaining users in the hospitality to facilitate large events, as well hiring Jobletes over using a tra- industry, where employment issues can give operators headaches. as events that are scheduled at ditional temp agency.

46 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017 Apps for hire “I like that we know who’s ute things where all of a sudden chairman and co-founder Wonolo coming, and we have their we need 10 people tomorrow,” Ron McCulloch called a “pull” phone number,” she said. “And said Elliott. model of matching workers to Wonolo (an most of the time we are seeing She said she likes being able employers, rather than a “push” abbreviation for familiar faces, so they know to communicate directly with model. “Work. Now. our kitchen, they know where the Wonoloers as soon as they “We don’t broadcast the Local.”) was everything is, and they know accept a job, so she can ensure opportunity across the user founded in 2014 to supply what they are getting into.” they are the right ft — some- group,” he said. “We do an workers to help keep Coca- thing that’s not possible with internal analysis, and actually Cola in stock on retailers’ Simplified Structure the traditional temp agencies select the best individual for shelves. It branched out into Operators also appreciate she has used. each role, and allocate the job hospitality, and now serves the structure of the employ- In addition, she likes the fact to them.” eight markets: Northern ment relationships. The app California; Southern California; companies pay the workers, the New York metro area; withhold taxes and assume Philadelphia; Chicago; other responsibilities involved Columbus, Ohio; Tampa Bay, with having workers on the Fla.; and Dallas. It employs books. Operators pay the app 30,000 Wonoloers and is companies a fee above what the working with some 700 workers are earning. employers. San Francisco-based Wonolo, Jobletics another temp-talent app, Founded in screens its workers for desired March 2016, character traits, said A.J. Jobletics Brustein, co-founder and chief specializes in operating ofcer. the restaurant industry, Potential “Wonoloers” go and has been growing its through a three-step applica- employee base rapidly. It tion process: First they take a currently serves “a couple test within the app. Ten they undergo a background check, a temp agency in your pocket mobile staffng startups position hundred” restaurant themselves as a solution to last-minute labor demands. companies in the Boston area, and they are also interviewed. providing both front-of-house “We are more concerned and back-of-house workers. It with attitude over aptitude,” that she has become familiar Jitjatjo’s workers commu- charges a fat rate per shift. said Brustein. with some of the Wonoloers nicate their availability, and Many entry-level positions and can request the workers she Jitjatjo weighs their proximity, JitJAtJo can be learned on the job, he favors for certain jobs. work history and other data to Jitjatjo launched said. Workers can also earn In fact, one of the few dis- align them with the right job. in October 2016, “badges,” which recognize appointments operators report McCulloch said maintaining and had about specialized knowledge or certi- in using the apps is that they operator trust is key to the suc- 55 restaurants in fcation, like safe food handling. sometimes cannot hire the spe- cess of talent-sourcing apps. the New York City area that Lisa Elliott, director of events cifc worker they want because “In years gone by, the frst had signed up as of late at the Yerba Buena Center for they have accepted another gig. thing [operators] were usually January. About 230 workers the Arts in San Francisco, said Operators say they very rarely doing was trying to keep a real were using the service, which almost all of the Wonoloers she have been unable to fll a posi- close eye on the talent they were uses a “push” model — has hired show up with a position, however. bringing in to their establish- matching the best available tive attitude and eager to work. ment,” he said. “So as they give employee to the available The center often hires A New model that trust over to our hands, we position, rather than leaving Wonoloers for catered and Jitjatjo, available the New York need to keep proving that we its workers to select avail- pop-up events. City area, is one of the newest provide quality on a consistent able shifts. “Sometimes we have last-min- app providers. It uses what basis.”

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PIck aNd cHOOsE Herringbone offers a selection of small seafood plates — yellowtail crudo, buffalo octopus, mussels tikka masala — that cater to the diner looking to try many dishes and favors over one meal.

they can’t wait to try poké, according to Datassential), and you’ve got a formula for some fresh ideas in small plates in the form of a quick coastal snack with drinks and friends or the prelude to a fisherman’s feast. That’s definitely the course Malarkey is charting at Herringbone, his seafood-focused restaurant with locations in Las Vegas and Santa Monica and La Jolla, Calif. There, shareable small plates of eye-popping, sparkling-fresh seafood like whole-fish ceviche (branzino with citrus, Fresno chile and cilantro), tuna poké (with shoyu, Maui onions, macadamia nuts and nori chips), yellowtail crudo (with truffle ItÕs High Tide for Small yuzu, crispy garlic and green onion) and ceviche tostada (with serrano chile, red Seafood Plates onion, cilantro, lime, radish and guac) are making a splash. Simple to trendy, upscale to casual, these shareable Herringbone’s Salt & Brine Bar offers an dishes are getting customers to bite impressive selection of raw oysters, king

t the Sundance Film Festival done. It’s now one bite of this, one bite this year, it was a small of that. I can’t get three bites into some- plate that stole the show. thing before I’m like, ‘What’s next?’” Celebrities like Keanu A couple of years ago, small/shared ReevesA were starstruck for Buffalo plates on the menu reached what octopus, a small plate created by restau- Datassential calls “the proliferation Small plates are rateur Brian Malarkey at ChefDance, a phase” of the menu adoption cycle, four-course meal presented during the meaning this is a trend that’s reached really good because film festival. “It was the hit of the whole the mainstream. Small plates can be we’re in an iPhone dinner,” Malarkey said. part of an appetizer menu or have their From Top Chef finalist Malarkey’s own section on the menu. Either way, world and our perspective, it’s not glamour or glitz that’s they’ve advanced way beyond the tapas driving small plates’ popularity in gen- restaurants where they originated. attention spans eral, though; it’s consumer attention span. are getting smaller “Small plates are really good because ocean-centric small plates we’re in an iPhone world and our Pair the small plates trend with con- and smaller as time attention spans are getting smaller and sumers’ growing interest in seafood smaller as time goes on,” Malarkey said. applications like ceviche and poké (24 goes on.

PHOTO: HERRINGBONE “The days of giant steaks and big fish are percent of consumers said last year that — Brian Malarkey, Herringbone

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 49 FOOD & DRINK MENU MOVES 3 WAYS TO ADD SEAFOOD SMALL PLATES TO YOUR MENU COMBO Salmon poké is just one of the poké-based 1 KEEP THE DELICATE FLAVORS of dishes chef Daniel Bouza fresh seafood at the forefront. will bring to his new PokéBao restaurant Turn ﬁ rst to super-simple in Miami. accompaniments like citrus and chilies. 2 RETHINK A CUSTOMER FAVORITE. For an interesting twist, take an appetizer that’s already popular with your diners and add seafood. Think crab guacamole or Thai lettuce cups. 3 CHANGE UP YOUR OYSTER TOPPINGS and mignonettes and make them a focal point on the menu or even a limited-time offer. Examples: “Be really delicate with raw seafood, Bloody Mary mignonette or and consider the texture and �lavor of lemony horseradish sauce. cooked seafood,” Malarkey said, adding that sometimes crossing styles and genres can create something special, ence a cruise to remember. as in the Buffalo octopus. “We were Restaurant owners Jack Gilmore and playing with some Buffalo stuff down Tom Kamm were looking to relive their at Searsucker [Malarkey’s concept that childhood days of hanging out at the focuses a little more on pork, bourbon beach and discovering iconic dishes and and beer than seafood], and combined �ishes from the Texas Gulf to Chesapeake the octopus with ranch dressing, black- Bay to New England. eyed peas, celery and carrot.” This youthful excitement translates to Mussels tikka masala at Herringbone is shareable small plates like chowda fries, another example of a seafood small plate something Gilmore calls “a classic New made interesting with global �lavors. England chowder that we kick up a little bit.” Clams, leeks and bacon bathed in a CHOWDA FRIES Salt Traders Coastal Cooking INTREGATING WITH CLASSIC APPETIZERS creamy broth on top of fries: a mash-up “kicks up” a classic New England chowder. At Salt Traders Coastal Cooking, a of clam chowder and poutine. crab, Baja shrimp cocktail (with Clamato, restaurant in Round Rock, Texas, just A supporter of the Coastal Conser- avocado, tomato and saltines), and combo outside of Austin, the $5 Bar Snacks vation Association, Gilmore’s respect deals like the Dinghy, which will get the menu is meant to get tables sharing. As for the ocean extends to the �ishermen party started with four oysters, a quarter soon as diners take a seat, they’re wel- who bring it all to the kitchen door. pound of Alaskan King crab, half a Maine comed with a complimentary smoked Snapper collar is used in the ceviche lobster and two jumbo shrimp. salmon-cream cheese-chive dip to set tostada plate, an example of using the For those looking to dive deeper into the tone; then, a menu full of mash-ups whole �ish from nose to tail, part of seafood small plates, Malarkey advises of iconic appetizers make the experi- the philosophy at Salt Traders, which a restrained touch with not much more also includes working with �ishermen than citrus and chiles as an accom- on a daily basis to buy up by-catch and paniment, allowing quality sourced underutilized �ish. �in�ish and shell�ish to shine through 24 “If someone knocks on the back door unobstructed. with any �ish, I’ll �ind a way to serve it,” That said, there’s also a place for NUMBER OF CONSUMERS WHO SAY Gilmore said. “I tell �ishermen to remem- THEY CAN’T WAIT TO TRY POKÉ seafood items paired with bolder �lavors ber, ‘Do I throw it back, or sell it to Jack?’ SOURCE: DATASSENTIAL

as well. I told my chef we’ll never have tilapia on PHOTOS: (TOP) POKÉBAO / (BOTTOM) SALT TRADERS COASTAL COOKING

50 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017 FLAVORFULIF YOU’RE SEEKINGSEAFOOD,

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the menu.” from the white tablecloth A chalkboard at Salt Traders’ world and serve cuisine that’s raw bar (and its digital version, more accessible to everyone. “Chalkboard Specials,” on the That includes gluten-free restaurant’s website) keeps cus- diners, a group Bouza wanted tomers up-to-date on which raw to be sure to include. The crispy oysters are available, the topping rice tuna is made to order for grilled oysters (recently, it was with gluten-free tamarin soy. lemon-horseradish butter) and Hawaiian poké served over also the day’s freshest plates, like sushi rice is another great glu- a crudo of hamachi with crème ten-free option. fraiche, pears and fennel slaw. SHOWSTOPPER Herringbone’s whole f sh In addition to being accessible, casual ceviche is made with branzino, citrus, Fresno and inclusive, Bouza has designed MAKE SHAREABLE ACCESSIBLE chile and cilantro. basically the whole menu to be When Chef Daniel Bouza worked at shareable. PokéBao’s menu will “allow Nobu Lana’I, he discovered Hawaiian- freshest, simplest, most delicious poké guests to try various dishes and get a styled, Asian-inspired food like the poké at these basic waterfront shops and it taste for something they may not order bowl. He has combined that idea with was incredible,” Bouza said. on their own,” Bouza said, pointing to bao (pillowy Asian steamed buns) in his Making bao buns with a friend another clear menu advantage of small new Miami restaurant, the aptly named sparked the idea to create a one-stop plates: Reeling in customers with a PokéBao, slated to open this winter. shop for poké and bao, something Bouza perfect bite of fish that they might not “Living in Hawaii, I’d spend a lot of wanted to do in a fast-casual setting. have tried otherwise.

time at the beach and you’d get the This concept aims to take a step away — Tara Fitzpatrick CHANTELLE PHOTOGRAPHYPHOTO: Premium Line of Cheeses! For this recipe and VVSUPREMO-FOODSERVICE.COM more go visit us at

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Beets Come Out From Underground The earthy, rootsy notes of beets speak to winter’s slumber and spring’s reawakening 1 ROOT VEGGIE SALAD MOUNIR SALEH, OWNER, SASSOOL, RALEIGH, N.C. Showing an appreciation for root vegetables in their raw state, this dish combines raw carrots and beets. T e salad gets the crunch factor from walnuts and a bright jolt to contrast the earthiness with cilantro and a housemade pomegranate vinaigrette. Sassool is a place that celebrates roots in the ancestral form as well as the vegetable. T e restaurant is the nickname of owner Mounir Saleh’s mother, Cecilia. T e family f ed Lebanon during the civil war in 1976 and started a pita bread bakery that led to Sassool, which now has two locations in Raleigh and Cary, NC. EARTH TONES Chefs develop new dishes from f avors born in dirt. 3 CANNELLINI BEET SPREAD CARLOS CARRETO, EXECUTIVE CHEF, OUSIA, NEW YORK Ousia, which just opened on Manhattan’s West Side, is the latest from the Livanos Restaurant Group (Oceans, Molyvos, Moderne Barn and City Limits Diner). T is cannellini beet spread is leading of the new menu of shareable small plates that can be described 2 as Mediterranean with a strong Greek focus. T e eye-catching BEET SALAD spread with the in-your- MAX POPPEL, OWNER, THE FLYING SQUIRREL, face color and silky CHATTANOOGA, TENN. texture is f avored T is salad blends raw and roasted beets with pink D’Avignon mainly with sesame radish for an unexpected ef ect. Goat cheese crema, pistachios seeds, keeping and pesto made from local herbs of er counterpoints from things deceptively several f avorful directions. Other root vegetables on the menu simple. of T e Flying Squirrel include a root-veggie platter with salt- — Tara Fitzpatrick baked turnips, roasted radishes, sweet potato puree, parsnip

PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: FELICIA PERRY PHOTOGRAPHY; OUSIA; THE FLYING SQUIRREL chips and a rich port wine reduction to tie it all together.

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 53 FOOD & DRINK BEVERAGE BUSINESS Sippable Sweets Encourage Diners to Indulge Operators are turning to dessert drinks, with or without alcohol, to boost checks

Egg whites, spice, booze and chocolate also are in the Cioccolato Solubile at SWEETHEARTS Chianina, a steakhouse in Los Angeles. Melt Bar & Grilled’s Bar manager Brad Fry developed it For Lovers Only last year as a Valentine’s Day special, but evokes the taste of chocolate-covered it proved popular enough to earn itself a strawberries. place on the permanent cocktail list. T e drink combines Kettle One vodka, raspberry liqueur, crème de cacao, a chocolate-Nutella syrup, cream, egg white and chocolate bitters. T e Melt Bar & Grilled in Cleveland of ered a similar cocktail in February, without egg whites, that was intended to evoke the taste of chocolate covered strawberries. Called For Lovers Only, it had Smirnof Vanilla, crème de cacao, simple syrup, lemon juice and strawberry preserves. ith restaurant traf c down tion for the drink from a bottle of Jameson at both lunch and dinner, Caskmates, an Irish whiskey aged in stout VARIATION ON A CLASSIC operators are working to barrels that he sampled while looking to Potent dessert drinks have long been W get as much out of each expand the restaurant’s whiskey of erings. popular, and none more so than the classic of their customers as they can, and one Trying it, he realized the drink could Irish cof ee, which combines Irish whiskey, ef ective way to do that is to of er sweet, also add an alternative choice to Stoke’s sugar and cof ee topped with cream. drinkable items for the end of the meal. relatively limited dessert of erings of a Jef Lawler, the owner of Geja’s Café in Whether alcoholic or not, restaurateurs doughnut, an apple crisp and an assort- Chicago, does a variation on that by adding are f nding that these likeable treats can help ment of chocolates. the hazelnut-and-herb liqueur Frangelico boost check averages as restaurant customer Tasting the whiskey, Burns said he “got to a cappuccino. Lawler said he was intro- counts decline. Checks were down by 3 stout f avors, but also chocolate and cof ee, duced to the combination about 10 years percent at lunch and 2 percent at dinner in so I thought, let’s put this in a cocktail and ago and decided to call it the Frangelicino. the year ended Sept. 30, 2016, according to let those notes shine.” consumer research f rm T e NPD Group. T e drink starts with a syrup that’s equal amounts Guinness Stout and superf ne SINGLES BAR Ice Cream Bar & Soda Fountain’s KEEP IT SIMPLE — OR NOT serves up a sundae drenched in beer in its sugar. Burns adds cracked espresso beans special This Drink Is My Date. T e dessert drinks can be simple af airs, and split serrano chiles to that and lets the such as the af ogato at L’Opera in Long mixture steep for a week, shaking it daily Beach, Calif. Traditionally just a scoop of to make sure he gets good extraction from vanilla gelato doused in an espresso shot, the chiles and cof ee. chef Walter Cotta spruces it up with warm He combines that with half and half, the dark chocolate sauce and garnishes it with Jameson Caskmates and some egg white, strawberry slices, a chocolate-covered shakes it with ice and then pours it into an strawberry and whipped cream. empty shaker to get “a nice frothy mixture” Or they can be more complex, and out of the egg whites. Burns strains that, to potent, such as the Dublin Redeye at Stoke get rid of some excess bubbles, into a coupe restaurant in Charlotte, N.C. glass and serves it with half of the glass

Bar manager DiSean Burns drew inspira- garnished with dark chocolate shavings. PHOTOS: (TOP) CHRIS CASELLA PHOTOGRAPHY; (BOTTOM) ERIK DEITERS

54 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017 STAFF-ONLY MILKSHAKES

DESSERT BEVERAGES aren’t just for customers. They can also be a morale-boosting pick-me-up IRISH STEW for staff. Stoke restaurant That’s what Thea Habjanic uses mixes many her milkshakes for at La Sirena WORK TONIC Milkshakes give La Sirena Ris- ingredients Ristorante, Mario Batali and Joe torante employees a morale and energy boost. including Irish whiskey, chiles Bastianich’s Italian restaurant with and espresso a Spanish tapas bar at the Maritime Hotel in New York City. beans to create “We were super, super busy over the summer, and one Saturday we were facing this Dublin a 600-cover night,” she said. So to boost morale and give staff an energy boost Redeye. and sugar high, she made cookies-and-cream milkshakes. The milkshakes have become a weekly custom, and have ranged from a chicken-and-waffl e milkshake (topped with a piece of Belgian waffl e and a fried chicken breast), to churros and chocolate, to matcha. “It’s just been really fun to explore and people really, really love it.” Because Habjanic posts pictures of her milkshakes on her Instagram account (@ theahabjanic), she’s gotten eager queries from her customers, but for now the milkshakes are for staff only, as the restaurant’s style calls for more composed desserts. But, in the next few months she’s hoping to fi nd a place for them on the menu.

“T e taste is a beautifully foamy cup of hazelnut-f avored cof ee,” he said, adding that guests don’t necessarily choose between dessert and a sweet cocktail. “It is a creative af er-dinner drink that pairs extremely well with our chocolate fondue.” Lawler claims that because of the Frangelicino he buys more Frangelico than anyone else in Chicago, adding that a grand pre- sentation helps: Bussers bring to the table a large snif er containing the liqueur, along with a cappuccino on the same tray. T ey swirl Be Inspired. Be Creative. Be Original. the snif er, of ering guests a whif .

“Most who are not familiar with Frangelico like to take a snif ,” Let Nutella® inspire you to create a memorable experience for your customers. With a variety of product solutions, Nutella® is sure to meet the needs of every Lawler said. T en the bussers pour the cappuccino into the snif er customer, giving them the experience they will enjoy with the brand they love! while swirling it so it’s all mixed together. T e Ice Cream Bar & Soda Fountain in San Francisco, not sur- 34% of consumers say they Breakfast Berry Crostini prisingly, of ers a wide variety of dessert-like drinks, and not all of are more likely to order a dessert with Nutella® if a mini-portioned option them are super sweet. was available. For example, one Valentine’s Day special, possibly for someone Source: Technomic who’s not necessarily feeling the love of the day, is the Bitter Little Tart. It’s made with a three bitter aperitifs — Cappelletti, Cocchi

PHOTOS: (LEFT) THEA HABJANIC; (RIGHT) MICHAEL TULIPAN Rosa and Elisir Novasalus — blended with pink grapefruit sorbet. “It’s a tart cocktail, with a dose of bitter for balance,” owner Juliet Pries said. On the other end of the spectrum, but also probably for someone not following traditional Valentine’s Day customs, is Ice Cream Bar’s other special, T is Drink Is My Date, which is a sundae drenched in beer. More specif cally, it’s a bourbon barrel-aged beer called Allagash Curieux poured over scoops of butterscotch, milk chocolate and banana pudding ice cream. It’s served in a large frozen goblet topped with caramelized banana, whipped cream and an Amarena cherry. “It’s an over-the-top ice cream sundae soaking in a very nice ale, which could be considered better than most dates,” Pries said. For more exciting recipe ideas and to learn more about Nutella®, visit www.ferrerofoodservice.com, or call (800) 408-1505 for more information. © Ferrero 2017 — Bret T orn Ferrero S.p.A.

MARCH 2017 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM 55 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION product showcase

siMplot Kraft Heinz riCeseleCt CaMpbell’s The newest addition to Sim- Better-for-you menu options are RiceSelect Texmati rice cel- Campbell’s Foodservice has plot’s lineup of fruits and veg- becoming more important to ebrates its 40th anniversary introduced three new, frozen etables are 5/8" mango cubes driving foodservice traffc and milestone. Texmati is the most soups that deliver rich, diverse that offer thaw and serve con- sales. BOCA® Essentials can widely recognized brand of favors and leave no room venience with consistent year- help operators meet this need aromatic rice in the United for artifcial colors or favors. round quality. Utilize across the for alternative protein sources States. Award-winning Rice- The new frozen soups deliver menu from tropical smoothie while offering unique, bold Select Texmati rice is available complex favors and simple in- bowls, to salsas and salads, to favors. The on-trend burgers in signature White, as well as gredients with no added MSG, mango-inspired beverages. are made with ingredients like Brown and Light Brown variet- artifcial favors, high-fructose black bean, quinoa, brown rice ies. Texmati White and Texmati corn syrup or colors from artif- or roasted vegetables. Brown rice are also available as cial sources. organically grown.

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butterball foodserviCe MCCain Minor’s CHarCoal CoMpanion Butterball Foodservice is intro- Brew City® has developed a Bring global favor to the menu These durable bamboo cutting ducing a new line of premium library of innovative recipes with new Minor’s® Ready- boards from Charcoal Compan- pork hams for chefs and restau- for its beer batter appetizer fa- To-Use (RTU) Asian Sauces. ion are a beautiful and practical rant operators. The new product vorites made with 100 percent Authentic Gochugaru peppers addition to your indoor or out- offerings include Honey Ham, premium craft beer. Instead of deliver a subtle heat to this door kitchen. Use during food Black Forest Ham and Virginia simply serving fries with sand- Korean-Style BBQ Sauce, com- prep to chop and cut your food Baked Ham. Naturally gluten wiches or burgers, increase plemented by notes of ginger, without damaging countertops. free and 96 percent fat free, the the serving size slightly, add a sesame, orange and garlic — Even better, the colorful soft- natural juice hams are made customized dipping sauce and perfect for ethnic fusion dishes grip handle makes it easy to with premium pork cuts. menu the plate as a shareable like Koji Chicken Tacos. transport to the table to use appetizer or snack. for serving.

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One-Track Mine Town Hearth shines a crystal chandelier light on opulent whimsy

If desIgn tensIon heIghtens the guests talking — and laughing. decommissioned in 1991,” Badovinus said. dining experience, Town Hearth in Dallas “I wanted this collision of rusticity and Te yellow submarine provides a visu- frmly aims for the stratosphere. opulence,” Badovinus said of the new ally permeable divide between the dining Sixty-four crystal chandeliers sprinkle the Town Hearth, which opened in February room and the bar in the 6,000 square feet 178-seat, modern-steakhouse dining room and features hearth-cooked prime steaks of new construction, which Badovinus said with refracted light, while a 1961 MG MGA from $43 to $79, and bone-in shareable was designed with the idea of making it roadster separates the open cooking line cuts from $95 to $125. look like it had been on the spot for years. from the guests, and a 1974 restored Ducati Te centerpiece that divides the bar “Tis place is designed to have fun,” motorcycle is displayed in the bar and is from the dining room is a 5,000-gallon Badovinus said. “A lot of times now, available as a side, for $75,000, on the menu. aquarium into which a bright yellow restaurants have become overly cerebral, or Chef-owner Nick Badovinus, who also military minesweeper has been sunk. Te maybe overly message-based. ... A big night owns three Neighborhood Services Bar aquarium contains hundreds of fsh and out should involve getting dressed up and & Grills, the Northwest seafood-inspired the Dutch-manufactured minesweeper. going out and seeing something that is a lit- Montlake Cut and the burger-oriented “It’s remote controlled and developed tle surprising and amazing, and something Of-Site Kitchen in DFW, set his eyes in post-World War II to be a submersible, you can’t get at home or see every day.”

frmly on creating a space that would get tether-based minesweeper. Tis one was — Ron Ruggless RUGGLESS RoN Photo:

60 RESTAURANT-HOSPITALITY.COM MARCH 2017 When they make ONE KIND we’ll make one OF CHEF, kind of Caesar.

EVERY CHEF is different. Each with his or her own unique style. That’s why Ken’s doesn’t just make one kind of Caesar dressing. We make 13. Unheard of in this business. But we like to match the exact ﬂ avor and ingredient profile to Every kind your customers’ tastes. Those customers, by the way, are always of Caesar to searching for a new food experience. So for an unmatched satisfy all depth and breadth of quality kinds of chefs dressings and sauces, it’s Ken’s. We’re available everywhere. Just ask.

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