2006 Guide to American and English Camps

National Park Service San Juan Island National Historical Park U.S. Department of the Interior www.nps.gov/sajh

SUMMER 2005 VOL. I, NO. 1 2006 Guide to American and English Camps Park founded to celebrate Things to peace, nature see and do reated by an act of Congress in Hiking C1966, San Juan Island National Historical Park commemorates the American and English camps peaceful resolution of the North- abound with opportunities for west Boundary dispute between strenuous hiking, taking a leisurely Wildflowers Great Britain and the United States. stroll through a field of wildflowers or In spring and summer, wildflowers The boundary dispute is finding a log and enjoying blanket the meadows and adorn the perhaps the best-known period in the seashore. forest floors. You’ll see Calypso island history. The park’s American (See pages 6 & 7.) orchids, fawn lilies, seashore Camp and English Camp units are lupines, western buttercups, administered to preserve and History chocolate lilies, shooting stars protect historic buildings and and swaths of purple camas. archaeological remnants, and The park is a Pick up a Native Wildflower Guide, interpret the “Pig War” crisis and tangible reminder that available at the visitor centers or joint military occupation of San the San Juan Islands and English Camp’s barracks, blockhouse online at www.nps.gov/sajh. Pacific Northwest were Juan Island by the United States and formal garden sit at the edge of and Great Britain from 1859 to Garrison Bay. once contested by Imperial 1872. (See page 2.) Spain as well as the United States and Earn a Junior Great Britain. But at each critical point along the way, the competing nations Ranger badge chose peace over war. Public transportation to Ask a park ranger or volunteer at (See pages 3 & 4.) English and American camps American Camp or English Camp visitor centers about how you can do Island Bicycles: 378-4941 Island Tours/Taxi: Wildlife this. It’s easy and fun! Bicycles 378-4453 There’s plenty to see here—orcas, Bob’s Taxi & Tours: seals, fox, deer, more than 200 species Special Susie’s Mopeds: 378- 378-6777 or (877) 4-TAXIBOB of birds, 32 species of butterflies and 5244 or (800) 532-0087 Service to all points on request. the occasional harmless garter snake programs sunning on the trail. (See back page.) Mopeds and automobiles. San Juan Transit & Tours: San Juan Island National Historical 378-8887 or (800) 887-8387 Eagle’s nest Park offers a full range of special M&W Rental Cars: Regularly scheduled routes programs, most of which are scheduled during the summer 378-2794 or (800) 323-6037 north to English Camp during Ask a park ranger or volunteer to Automobile rentals and sales. the summer season with a season. Visit our website to view the show you the active bald eagle’s nest in park’s 2006 Summer Program reservation-only schedule a Douglas fir near the American Camp available to American Camp Guide. (See pages 5 & 8.) San Juan Taxi: visitor center. Please remember not to three times daily. Guided tours stand in the road. (See page 11.) 378-3550 or 378-TAXI available. www.nps.gov/sajh

A 40th Anniversary supplement to the Journal sponsored by San Juan Island merchants 2 Park Guide 2006

National Park Service Basic information U.S. Department of the Interior Finding your way to the parks San Juan Island National Historical Park American Camp to Second Street and turn right. Go The speed limit on this gravel track is straight. At the first stop sign you 15 mph, and we urge you to take it he American Camp visitor center is encounter, Second becomes Guard. seriously. English Camp also may be Superintendent about six miles southeast of Friday T Go to the next stop sign and continue accessed via Roche Harbor Road. To Peter Dederich Harbor along Cattle Point Road. Simply reach the Roche Harbor Road drive west on Spring Street to from Friday Harbor, turn right at Chief of Interpretation Mullis Street and turn left. The the second stop sign onto Mike Vouri road will wind a bit and change Tucker Avenue. Tucker becomes its name twice until it becomes Roche Harbor Road just outside Editor Cattle Point Road. Remember of town. Take Roche Harbor Julia J. Coffey to turn right on the visitor Road to West Valley Road and center entrance road after you turn left. The parade ground see the large park entrance entrance road will be your sign. If you turn before the Contact Information second right after you pass the sign, you’ll be in the Eagle park entrance sign. Cove housing development. Mailing Address Cattle Point Road passes three PO Box 429 miles through the park Friday Harbor, WA 98250 right-of-way and the speed A Word About limit is 45 mph. Please be Road Safety e-mail mindful, especially in the [email protected] wooded stretch, that wild The island is only 54 square animals cross this road and FAX Numbers miles (about 16 1/2 miles long bicyclists may be around one of (360) 378-2615 (Administration) and 6 1/2 miles wide at the the blind corners. Startled (360) 378-2996 midsection). That means not cyclists tend to turn and look (Visitor Information) only is it hard to get lost, you over their left shoulders, which don’t have to be in an all-fired causes them to swerve toward Park Headquarters hurry to get anywhere! the center line. Park speed (360) 378-2240 If you’re driving an automo- limits are 15 mph on the visitor bile or truck, be especially center entrance road and 25 Visitor Services mindful of bicycles, mopeds mph on Pickett’s Lane (which (360) 378-2902 and three-wheeled motorized leads to South Beach). Remem- to go straight. The street runs past the scooters. They have the right-of-way ber to be especially careful when Website library, bends right and left and be- the same as you. If you must pass, do it exiting the American Camp visitor http://www.nps.gov/sajh comes Beaverton Valley Road. Follow carefully and do not cross a solid center entrance road. Beaverton Valley Road over Cady double line. Conversely, cyclists should Mountain (it’s a small mountain). The remember that, while they do have the The park is administered by the English Camp road becomes West Valley Road. About right-of-way, it is considered a courtesy National Park Service, U.S. 500 feet past the park entrance sign, here to form a single line right. Department of the Interior. For English Camp is located about nine miles northwest of Friday Harbor on on the left, is the entrance road to the information, write: Superintendent, parade ground. P.O. Box 429, Friday Harbor, WA West Valley Road. Take Spring Street 98250; or call (360) 378-2902. Web site: www.nps.gov/sajh; FAX (360) 378-2996. Things to know Picnic areas are available at both ONLY fruits, nuts, unoccupied Horseback riding is allowed by permit in designated areas only. Park Guide 2006 is published in camps. seashells and mushrooms may be collected for personal use. cooperation with the Journal of Off-road travel (by vehicles, The park is a day-use only area, the San Juan Islands. The Na- mopeds or bicycles) is not open from dawn to 11 p.m. No tional Park Service cannot guar- allowed in the park. Digging or using metal detectors is prohibited. campgrounds are available at antee the relevance, timeliness, either camp. Several private or accuracy of the materials Pets must be kept on leash and Using or possessing fireworks is facilities and a county-owned provided by advertisers or other picked up after within park prohibited year-round. campground are available on the agencies or organizations, nor boundaries. island. does the NPS endorse other agencies or organizations, their Natural features and ruins must Hunting, trapping or carrying www.nps.gov/sajh views, products or services. be left undisturbed. firearms on park lands is prohibited. FAX (360) 378-2996. Park Guide 2006 3 The Pig War: Close call for the United States and Great Britain

The British Royal Marine Light Infantry company comes to attention on the parade ground in their camp on Garrison Bay in the late 1860s.

n July 27, 1859, George E. To solidify the British claim, the Then Cutlar shot the pig. The Army commander Lieutenant General OPickett’s Company D, 9th Infantry Hudson’s Bay Company occupied the Hudson’s Bay Company allegedly Winfield Scott. Scott and Douglas arrived on San Juan Island with a southern end of San Juan, first with a threatened the American with arrest by negotiated a joint occupation of the mission to protect United States salmon-salting station in 1850, British authorities if he did not make island until the dispute could be citizens from the British government on followed by a sheep ranch—Belle Vue fair restitution for the pig. This resolved through diplomatic channels. Vancouver Island. The reason? An Farm—three years later. The compelled U.S. Army Department of The Americans remained at Cattle Point American settler named Lyman Cutlar Americans, meanwhile, declared the Oregon commander Brigadier General while Royal Marines established in had shot a pig belonging to the island within the limits of first Oregon William S. Harney to dispatch Pickett to March 1860 a comfortable camp on Hudson’s Bay Company. Everyone (1848) then Washington Territory San Juan Island. Garrison Bay, 13 miles north. overreacted, particularly U.S. (1853). By 1859 about 18 Americans, British Columbia Governor James The joint occupation ended 12 years Department of Oregon commander, including Cutlar, had settled on San Douglas responded by sending three later when, on October 21, 1872, Brigadier General William S. Harney, Juan Island in anticipation of official warships under Royal Navy Captain Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany, acting as who had issued Pickett his orders. American possession. Neither group Geoffrey Phipps Hornby to dislodge arbitrator, settled the dispute by award- But more was involved than just a acknowledged the jurisdiction or taxing Pickett. The two sides faced off on the ing the San Juan Islands to the United dead pig. For nearly 50 years, the two authority of the other. Tempers were Cattle Point peninsula for more than States. Thus ended the so-called Pig nations had been contending over the growing short. three months until the arrival of U.S. War—with the pig the only casualty. international boundary in the Oregon Country, a vast expanse of land consisting of the present states of Washington, Oregon and Idaho, portions of Montana and Wyoming and the province of British Columbia. The Oregon Treaty of 1846 had given the United States undisputed possession of the Pacific Northwest south of the 49th parallel, extending the boundary to the “middle of the channel which separates the continent from Vancouver’s Island; and thence southerly through the middle of said channel and of Fuca’s straits to the Pacific Ocean.” But while the treaty settled the larger boundary question, it created additional problems because its wording left unclear who owned San Juan Island. The difficulty arose over treaty language that referred to the boundary as the “middle of the channel.” There were actually two channels, Haro Strait nearest Vancouver Island, and Rosario Strait, nearer the mainland. San Juan Island lies between the two. Britain insisted on the Rosario Strait; the U.S., Haro Strait. Thus, both sides claimed San Juan Island. 4 Park Guide 2006 Take a journey in time at English and American camps

Geologic evidence viewed as terraces above today’s backdrop of prairie, sea and sky. Grandma’s Cove, where the HBC South Beach. These features are best American Camp dates from 1859, the steamer Beaver unloaded supplies. tells deep time tale viewed from the Redoubt. Thick time of the Pig War. The wooden The English Camp parade ground cenic vistas at American and English deposits of glacial till can be viewed officers’ quarters and laundress’ cabin features four original historic Scamps are the handiwork of glaciers while walking South Beach east of and the white picket fence structures, including the accessible and their effects on sea level changes. Pickett’s Lane or looking down from encompassing the parade ground recall Royal Marine barracks and block- The open grassland (prairie) at Cattle Point Road from the observation the tensions of the boundary dispute house. The hospital and storehouse American Camp is studded with pullouts. Looking toward 290-foot Mt. when war nearly broke out over the are closed to the public. From glacial erratics (rocks and boulders Finlayson, the contrast between shooting of a pig. Officer’s Hill, see if you can spot at which were deposited as the glacial forest and grassland is striking in its The interpretive trail and prairie walk low tide the rock piles that once ice melted). Terraces denoting former abruptness. The north-facing slope is to the coast pass directly through the supported a pier where beaches reflect changing sea levels densely forested, retaining moisture, site of Belle Vue Sheep Farm, where Royal Navy warships and rebound following the most while the south-facing slope is an open the Hudson’s Bay Company docked. The recent glaciation. prairie, exposed to the drying effects of established a corporate farm in rock walls Although sea levels actually rose wind and sun. 1853. Look closely and you will on Officer’s after glaciation, the rate of rebound Tracking human history see grassy mounds of (the rising [rebound] of land as it chimney brick and in mid- Hill also recovers from the extreme weight of rom the Redoubt (an earthen winter the hollows where were glacial ice) was greater, thus forming a Ffortification) one gets a feeling of foundations once sat. Further constructed by succession of beaches that today are the historic landscape set against the along the trail is the head of Royal Marines. Park Guide 2006 5 2006 Summer Program Schedule: Something for Everyone Weekly Programs San Juan Island from 1860 to 1872 and why were they on the Northwest Pig War Story Guided Walk—Park Coast? Find out during this slide rangers and volunteers describe events lecture by historian and author Mike leading up to and including the Pig Vouri. 2 p.m., Saturday, June 17, War and the peaceful joint occupation English Camp barracks. of San Juan Island by British and American troops. Walks are The Disputed Islands: Early scheduled at American Camp 11:30 Settlement on San Juan Island— a.m., Saturdays, June 3 to Learn about daily life on San Juan September 2. Island from 1853 through the joint military occupation in 1872. Historian Living History: Life during the Joint Boyd Pratt talks about settlers from Military Occupation on San Juan Hudson’s Bay Company employees to Island—Park rangers and volunteers discharged soldiers to failed miners. 2 create military and civilian life during p.m., Saturday, June 24, English the island’s early pioneer period. Camp barracks. Activities include blacksmithing, coopering, weaving, needlework and Pickett’s Irish: The Irish in the U.S. exhibitions of military equipment and Army in the 1850s—Historian Mike skills. 12:30 to 3:30 p.m., Saturdays, Vouri and folk musician Michael Cohen June 3 to August 26, English Camp. present this program that takes a closer look at the Irish in the U.S. Army Wildlife in the San Juan Islands— Cowlitz Nation weaver Judy Bridges is scheduled August 5 at English camp. in words and song. 2 p.m., Saturday, Puzzled by an animal or bird? Wolf July 15, English Camp barracks. Hollow Wildlife Rehabilitation Center minute walk through American Bob Lemon and naturalist Annie Education Coordinator Shona Aitken Camp’s prairies. The program is Prevost. Bring rubber boots and an old Life and Times of General George answers questions and uses a variety of suitable for beginning as well as towel for use as a kneepad and hand Pickett—Park Ranger Mike Vouri and media to talk about wildlife in the San veteran birders and provides insights wiper. Also bring sunscreen and rain folk musician Michael Cohen join with Juan Islands. 1 to 3 p.m., Fridays, into the park’s rich flora and fauna. gear. Some agility is required for the San Juan Community Theatre in June 9 to September 1, English 7:30 a.m., Sunday, June 4, jumping around slippery rocks. 9 a.m., presenting an evening of drama and Camp barracks. American Camp visitor center. Sunday, June 11, American Camp song as George Pickett comes back to visitor center parking area. Tide Pool Walk at Grandma’s Cove life to talk about his days on the Historical Songs at English Camp— frontier and Civil War battlefields. Folk singer and musicologist Michael Learn about plant and animal life, from Outpost of Empire: The Royal algae to invertebrate animals, during Marines on San Juan Island—Who Cohen strolls the grounds inviting (Continued on Page 8) visitors to listen or sing along to a this tide pool walk with biologist were the Royal Marines that occupied selection of traditional songs. Cohen’s roots go back to the Washington Square folk movement in 1950s New York City. He has played with everyone from Pete Seeger to the New Lost City Ramblers. 7:30 p.m., Thursdays, June 8 to August 31, on the English Camp parade ground. Special Programs

Ancient Visitors: Tracing the Pre- history of San Juan Island through Archaeology—University of Washington archaeologist, Dr. Julie Stein, traces ancient habitation of San Juan Island in this guided walk on the American Camp prairie. 10 a.m., Sunday, June 4, South Beach main parking area at American Camp. The Birds of American Camp— Come join San Juan Island bird expert and former national park ranger Barbara Jensen for a colorful 90- 6 Park Guide 2006 English Camp

English Camp Attractions Roche Harbor Road Young Hill trail - Hike this fairly steep trail up 650 feet to the top of Young Hill for a panoramic view of the island’s northwest corner. Novice walkers should take care to Westcott pace themselves as most of the gain is in the last half mile. An exhibit panel identifying Bay geographic features is mounted on an overlook about two-thirds of the way up the hill. Bell (1.25 mi.) Point

Royal Marine cemetery - The Royal Marine cemetery is about 50 yards off the Young Hill trail, about a third of the way up. Five Royal Marines are interred, while a memorial stone is in place for two other marines. A stone also commemorates a civilian who was Bell Point accidentally shot by his brother while hunting. Trail

Bell Point trail - Walk the mile-long, fairly level trail to Bell Point for a view of West Valley Road Hospital Westcott Bay. If you like to harvest shellfish, check with the park ranger at the visitor Young Hill center for locations, daily limits and red tide warnings. (2-mi. loop) Garrison Barracks Trail Storehouse Bay Blockhouse Self-guided walk - Relive the Royal Marine era along the trail that starts at the base of Formal Garden Young Hill Guss 650 ft (198m) Officers’ the main entrance trail. Pick up guides in the box next to the bulletin board and follow Island Quarters P the numbered posts. Please return when finished to the box provided at the end of the Site walk. If you wish to purchase a guide, they are available for a one dollar donation at the visitor center. (.25 mi.) Royal Marine Cemetery English formal garden - The garden lies between the officers’ quarters sites and the parade ground. The camp’s second commanding officer had it built for his family to remind them of home.

To Friday Harbor

Visitor center resources

Both American Camp and English Camp (summer Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast: Washington, Birds of the Puget Sound Region, only) have visitor centers with maps, books and Oregon, British Columbia & Alaska, by Morse, Averza and Opperman. gifts. The bookstore at American Camp is more by Jim Pojar and Andy MacKinnon. comprehensive. Here are some of the more Birding in the San Juan Islands, popular guides and book titles. Wild Plants of the San Juan Islands, by Mark G. Lewis and Fred A. Sharpe. by Scott Atkinson & Fred Sharpe. Booklets for guided walking tours of American The Audubon Society Field Guide to the Bald Eagle. Camp, English Camp and Jakle’s Lagoon. The Butterflies of Cascadia: A Field Guide to All the Species of Washington, Oregon and Surrounding American Cetacean Society Field Guide to the Orca. The Pig War: Standoff at Griffin Bay, Territories, by Robert Michael Pyle. by Mike Vouri. The Restless Northwest: A Geological Study, Seashore Life of the Northern Pacific Coast, An by Hill Williams. Outpost of Empire: The Royal Marines and the Illustrated Guide to Northern California, Oregon, Joint Occupation of San Juan Island, Washington and British Columbia, Free: Guide to Native Wildflowers of American by Mike Vouri. by Eugene N. Kozloff. Camp. Park Guide 2006 7 American Camp

To Friday Harbor N

Griffin Bay 0 0.5

Approximate Site of Cutlar Trails range from Farm

American Camp Officers’ leisurely to strenuous. Visitor Center Quarters P Old Town Ask a park ranger or Lagoon Lagoon and Self- guided Walk Trail Self-guided volunteer about the History Walk Third Laundress P Jakle’s best hike for you. Lagoon Quarters Lagoon Redoubt Pickett’s Lane

Belle Vue Cattle Point Road Farm Site Prairie Walks

Mt. Finlayson Park 290 ft. (88m) Boundary DNR Cattle Point Grandma’s Mt. Finlayson Trail Interpretive Area Cove P

Bluff Trails South Beach

Strait of Juan de Fuca Cattle Point Light

Self-guided history walk - Relive the Pig War along the trail that Mt. Finlayson trail - Hike along the grassy ridge to the top of Mt. starts and finishes in the visitor center parking area. Pick up guides in Finlayson where you can see Mt. Baker to the east, Mt. boxes at the trailhead and follow the numbers. (1.25 mi.) Rainier to the southeast, the Olympic Mountains to the south and Vancouver Island, British Columbia to the west. Come back the Prairie walks - Primitive tracks crisscross the prairie and trace the way you came or through Jakle’s Lagoon. (3-mi. loop) bluff from Grandma’s Cove to South Beach and back to the visitor center via the Redoubt. A great place for viewing Orca whales, the Jakle’s Lagoon trail - Pick up a self-guided walk booklet, hike along Redoubt also offers a regional perspective with views of Mt. Baker, the the old roadbed and enjoy the quiet of a Douglas fir, cedar and Olympic and Cascade ranges, Vancouver Island, and on an exceptionally clear day even Mt. Rainier, 130 miles up Admiralty Inlet. hemlock canopy. This wooded area shelters deer and many types of birds, and remains one of the most popular hiking areas on San Juan Sweeping views are also plentiful from the Cattle Point and Redoubt Island. (1.5 mi.) roads and Pickett’s Lane. Walkers are advised to use caution as rabbits have excavated warrens throughout the prairie. Stepping in a hole can South Beach - Walk along the longest public beach on the island. This cause injuries. (2.5 mi.) is a great place to see an abundance of shorebirds, and in spring and Grandma’s Cove - Stroll downhill to one of the finest beaches on summer, Orca whales. The beach is mainly gravel, so shoes or sandals the island. Use caution in descending the bluff. (.25 mi.) are advised. Fires are limited to grates in the picnic areas. (2 mi.)

Hikes 8 Park Guide 2006 2006 Summer Program Schedule: (Continued from Page 5)

(Continued from Page 5) First Nations Flute Concert—Paul Gunsmithing on the Frontier—NPS region as they recreate life on San Juan Friday, July 21 and Friday, August Wagner of the Saanich (Northwest volunteer Greg Hertel explains the Island at mid-19th century. The annual 25. All shows 7:30 p.m., San Juan Coast Salish) tribe comes from a attributes,National Park use Service and repair of a variety event commemorates the peaceful ACommunity Theatre. Tickets: $10 lineage of Shneh’em, medicine people ofU.S. 19th Department century of firearms, the Interior including joint occupation of San Juan Island by adults, $6 students. who in healing use many tools, both flintlock and percussion cap British and American forces from 1859 including music. Paul also plays the weapons.San Juan Island In addition to to 1872, and the final, peaceful In Concert: Sugar on the Floor— mbira and Chipendani from Zimbabwe, demonstrationsNational Historical of Park disassembling for settlement of the Northwest Boundary Folk singer Michael Cohen and the didgeridoo, guitar, bass and drum. cleaning, he also will discuss dispute. Throughout the joint group “Sugar on the Floor” present a He has performed extensively howSan 19th century occupation the garrisons regularly variety of songs from the 19th century throughout the Pacific development of arms exchanged visits to celebrate holidays and other genres. Cohen has worked Northwest. 2 p.m., spurredJuan changed that included Christmas, the Fourth of with the Smithsonian Institution in Saturday, August tactics during the July and Queen Victoria’s birthday. searching for and cataloging American 12, English American Civil War. Typically the men would participate in folk tunes. 7 p.m., Saturday, July 22, Camp 1 p.m., Sunday, athletic contests, imbibe in spirits and English Camp barracks. barracks. August 13, other refreshments and usually host a English Camp dance to which the community was The People of the Cedar—Richard parade ground. invited. Encampment 2006 includes Vanderway, education coordinator for Dresses, Drawers camp life, blacksmithing, cookery, Bellingham’s Whatcom Museum, & More: The Importance woodworking and drilling. The makes his seventh annual of Dress and Style in the highlight of the weekend is Saturday’s presentation in the park with 1860s—Ever wonder how a Candlelight Ball, an evening of an array of objects to provide a hoopskirt worked? NPS dancing and refreshments from 7 to glimpse into Northwest Coast volunteers Anne Lorgen, 10 p.m.—All day, Saturday and Indian culture. 2 p.m., Sandra MacKinnon and Judy Sunday, August 26-27, English Saturday, July 22, English Leclercq will demonstrate Camp. Camp barracks. how complicated and time-consuming dressing All programs are free and open to Northwest Pioneer was for the 19th century the public, except where noted. Folkways Demonstrations woman. 1 p.m., Programs are subject to change. Janet Oakley, education Saturday, August 19, For updates and accessibility coordinator for the Skagit English Camp barracks. information, call San Juan Island County Historical Museum in National Historical Park at LaConner, demonstrates Encampment 2006—Join (360) 378-2902 or (360) 378-2240; pioneer folkways from butter park staff, volunteers and re- mike [email protected]; or churning to Dutch oven enactors from throughout the http://www.nps.gov/sajh. baking and other tasks. Noon to 3 p.m., Saturday, July 29, English Camp parade ground.

Soldier Games—Are your competitive juices bubbling? If so, join park staff and volunteers for the Second Annual “Soldier Games,” an afternoon of competitions featuring the very events in which U.S. Soldiers and Royal Marines competed during the joint occupation. Records will be kept year- to-year. Fun for all ages. 1 p.m., Sunday, July 30, English Camp parade ground.

A Weaving Legacy—Join Cowlitz Nation weaver Judy Bridges and Fort Nisqually interpreter and storyteller Karen Haas for a fun afternoon of weaving with all-natural fibers, including wild reeds. Bridges is a direct descendant of Hudson’s Bay Company pioneers. Noon, Saturday, August 5, English Camp parade ground. Park Guide 2006 9 Archaeology reveals a rich and diverse park heritage

ying as it does at the occupation period. The artifacts were under the site of the and storage facility at North Lcrossroads of three great water- excavated over more than 50 years by Royal Marine commis- Cascades National Park in ways, with sheltered harbors, field schools from the University of sary; or when the Marblemount, Washington. A open prairie and secluded Washington and the University of flagpole was exca- selection of artifacts from the joint woodlands, San Juan Island Idaho. The historical objects were vated at the same site, military occupation are on view in has always been a magnet for unearthed in successive summers revealing not only an the American Camp visitor center. human habitation. People between 1970 and 1979 by students elaborate crib anchoring The cases are arranged by location— have been drawn here from the Laboratory of Anthropol- system, but American and English camps and Old whether it be to stake a ogy, under the direction of Dr. another plank Town Lagoon—and contain buttons, life or find rest and Roderick Sprague. house. Idaho badges, company and regimental relaxation amid an Specific sites included crews also insignia, tableware and even a chamber abundant food source. English Camp, San succeeded in pot. Each object represents an aspect As a result, San Juan Juan Town, Bellevue determining of daily life long vanished. Island National Histori- Farm and the the site of the A display of prehistoric artifacts from cal park has one of the Parade Ground and Laundress’ the park’s Burke collections is scheduled most significant collec- Laundress’ Quarters Quarters and to be installed at American Camp by tions of artifacts in the areas of American found the June 2006. Among these objects are national park system. Camp. All of the sites stub of the projectile points, scrapers, grinding The park’s collection date from the Pig War flagpole, stones and fishhooks. represents more than era, 1859-1872, with the situated in front of 2,500 years of continu- exception of Belle Vue Sheep the Officers’ Quarters ous occupation by Farm, which was established in at American Camp. human beings. 1853 by the Hudson’s Bay American and English Company. The students often Where to see artifacts camps have been cited lived in primitive conditions as winter and summer during the excavations, which Prehistoric artifacts from the UW homes of the Lummi, lasted several weeks. However, they projects are held in the Burke Mu- Saanich, Samish and Songhee peoples, often were richly rewarded, such as seum in Seattle, while the historic as well as the British Royal Marines when they discovered the remains of objects from the UI excavations are and U.S. Army during the joint an ancient Coast Salish plank house being stored at the archival laboratory

University of Idaho Field School conducts a dig at American Camp in the 1970s.

Safeguard your heritage Collecting forbidden Artifacts within the boundaries of San Juan Island National Historical Park, or any known archaeological site, are protected under the Archaeological Resources Protection Act of 1979. It is illegal to disturb, dig, remove or possess archaeological objects. If you encounter archaeological objects on surface areas in the park, please leave them where they are and report the finds and their locations as soon as possible to a park ranger or volunteer. Always remember that each object, no matter how insignificant it may appear, could hold the key to opening a door to the past and further enriching our lives. 10 Park Guide 2006 Prairie restoration underway at American Camp Long-range project to restore native grasses

f current trends continue, American I Camp’s prairie may become only a memory. Native grasses and wildflowers are being crowded out by exotics (nonnative plants), and woody species are slowly replacing the grasslands. These changes are occurring because fire is no longer used as a way to regularly restore the prairie, and because Europeans who arrived in the 1850s introduced NPS fire crews prepared the dark area (above), just down from the Redoubt, for replanting, which is ongoing by Friday livestock and invasive, nonnative plants Harbor home-school students (below right) and other volunteer groups. that continue to alter the habitat. mats so dense they won’t support any to the visitor center contain the native A nonnative species brought to the Why restore the prairie? The prairie other plants.” bunchgrass, Roemer’s fescue, which is island in the late 1800s, they are in its original state is integral to the being transplanted in designated sites destroying the prairie by digging history of the park, which was Initial studies: Last year preparation on the prairie. Newly planted plugs are extensive burrow systems. Fencing originally established to interpret the began, which included inventory and taking hold in the area west of and constructed in recent years prevents story of the Pig War. Also, this type of monitoring of plants, small mammals below the Redoubt. This year them from entering certain areas landscape is becoming increasingly rare and birds; mapping remaining additional grasses and wildflowers will targeted for restoration, and additional in the Pacific Northwest. “Nearly 95 concentrations of native plants; and be cultivated as well. ways to control them are currently percent of lowland Puget Sound prairie observing the life cycle and ecology of under discussion. habitat has been destroyed or heavily the rare Island Marble butterfly. NPS • Burning designated areas: Using altered,” said Peter fire crews prepared the dark fire as a way to encourage growth of How you can help: You can Dederich, super- area (above), just down valuable plants is a time-honored contribute to prairie restoration in the intendent of San Juan from the Redoubt, for method that was practiced by the park! Many groups and individuals are Island National Historical replanting by Friday Harbor Indians. “Many native plants evolved in helping by: Park. “We are trying to home-school students the presence of fire and need it in restore the native plant (below right) and other order to thrive,” Dederich said. “For • Growing native grasses and community not only to volunteer groups. Planting instance, chocolate lilies are wildflowers at home. maintain one of the last will continue in this area for one of the first plants that come back remaining prairies for two more years. after a burn. There’s no real substitute • Transplanting plugs on the prairie. future generations, but for fire. You can mow or cut back also to preserve the Encouraging results: woody growth, but it never really • Pulling invasive plants such as tansy habitat for many species “Here at American Camp, completely duplicates the role of fire in ragwort, thistle and blackberry. that are rare and we have one of the largest restoring the ecosystem.” becoming rarer.” remaining pieces of prairie If you would like to participate, call Bill in Puget Sound at 600 acres,” What about the rabbits? Have you Gleason, chief of resource manage- What would happen with no Dederich said. “When we mapped the noticed the barren “moonscape” along ment, at (360) 378-2240. restoration? “Initially the nonnative patches of native prairie, Pickett’s Lane, the stretch with no plants would force out the natives,” we were pleasantly surprised at how grasses or Superintendent available Dederich said. “The long-term much was left, considering the heavy wildflowers in sight? for tours: prediction is that the prairie would all pressure it has endured for 150 years.” This is an Still have questions? become forested. If you walk to the example of how Dederich would be Redoubt, continue down the steps and Findings include three destructive the happy to arrange look to the left, you’ll see where methods of restoration: European rabbit a tour of the Douglas firs are coming in strongly. can be. prairie. Call That area has been prairie for 3,000 • Removing invasive plants: (360) 378-2240 years, but is slowly changing.” Methods to control invasive, nonnative to make an plants include pulling them by hand appointment. How do native and nonnative and selective treatment with herbicides communities differ? “There’s a huge to eliminate the most resistant grass difference,” Dederich said. “Native species. Among the targets are Canada plants include wildflowers like thistle, Himalayan blackberry and camas, chocolate lilies, lupines, blue- tansy ragwort. eyed Marys and shooting stars, plus lots of native grasses. It’s like a little • Planting native plugs: Last year garden. If you go to altered areas, National Park Service biologists you’ll see thistle and three or four gathered seeds from the prairie for species of nonnative grasses that form cultivation. The tubes you see adjacent Park Guide 2006 11 American Camp eagles’ nest marks decade at center

By Susan Vernon a family nearly every year. The bald ald Eagles are prominent members eagle’s nest has been there a long time. Bof the San Juan Islands wildlife It is anchored in an old, broken-topped community. They soar over the island Douglas fir. The nest tree stands amidst scape on broad, dark wings, and perch a band of conifers that form a wind atop the conifers, often along the break upland of Haro Strait. The aerie is south-facing slopes of the rocky a massive structure of branches, sticks shoreline. Their gleaming white heads and vegetation nearly nine feet across are an unmistakable field mark, giving and three feet deep—not a big nest the birds an authoritative air. compared to some others in the Long before European settlement islands, but impressive nonetheless. of the islands, bald eagles held forth The nest is ideally situated to give here. They were totem animals to the the eagles a panoramic view of their First People of the Northwest Coast. domain. To the west, the inland sea is Images and stories of eagles figured rich with salmon and other fish, prominently in their culture. In 1792, seabirds and waterfowl; and to the Captain George Vancouver explored A bald eagle hovers over her young in the nest at the American Camp visitor south, the prairie hosts rabbits, voles the archipelago during his Voyage of center. All three eaglets fledged. and snakes to feed upon. Griffin Bay, Discovery. The ship’s naturalist, Dr. 2003 photograph by Russ Illig. to the northeast, offers more Archibald Menzies, wrote of “white- opportunities for prey. Among the headed eagles” perched in the trees even dined on bald eagle. Now, nearly many bald eagles are migratory, there conifers, snags provide excellent along both sides of the shore and 150 years later, the majestic birds still is a resident population, too. More perching sites for the big birds. hovering over “the Arms.” When claim the islands as their domain. than one pair of balds reside in the Eight eaglets have survived to fledge American Camp was established in The San Juans have one of the vicinity of American Camp. from the nest in recent times. The life 1859, the presence of bald eagles was highest densities of breeding bald An active nest close to the visitor history of the pair using the site is cited in post reports. During the eagles in the lower 48 states. There are center provides a rare opportunity for unknown, for neither bird is banded. boundary survey of that era, the team over 100 nesting pairs here. While the public to watch the big birds raise But as eagles mate for life and defend their territory year-round, it is relatively easy to monitor their activities.

BALD EAGLE FACTS

* The scientific name Haliaeetus leucocephalus means white-headed sea eagle.

* Eagles mate for life; if one member of the pair dies, the survivor may take a new mate.

* Female bald eagles are larger than males. They weigh up to 14 pounds and have a wingspan of seven feet.

* Balds, surviving to maturity, may live 15 to 20 years or more in the wild.

* Eaglets fledge in approximately 10 to 12 weeks.

* Eagles are opportunistic feeders. They prey upon fish and other marine life, birds, frogs, snakes and small mammals. They also scavenge along the beach.

All eagles are protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act and the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act. PossessionA PROTECTED of an eagle SPECIES feather, or other body parts, is a felony with a fine of up to $10,000 and/or imprisonment. 12 Park Guide 2006 Where the wild things are One of the most remarkable things about San Juan Island is its easy access to wildlife. Here is a sampling of what you may see at American and English camps. Stop by the visitor centers for maps and books.

Dall’s porpoises Intertidal creatures horned Don’t mistake these for the much Tide pools are especially rich with owls and larger Orca whale. They have sea anemones, pink, purple and, 18 varieties similar markings, but are only orange sea stars, sea urchins, crabs, of raptors, from merlins about six feet long and have a periwinkles, dogwinkles, great to peregrine falcons to northern smaller dorsal fin. When surfacing, tangles of kelp and the largest harriers. In spring, you’ll also see they create rooster tails of spray. chiton in the world: the gumboot. Savannah sparrows and vesper sparrows. On rocky shorelines, Pacific Harbor seals listen for the piping calls of oystercatchers, and look for surf Hike to the overlook above scoters in protected bays and rafts Grandma’s Cove in American Camp Land mammals of seabirds on the open water. Pick and look down. You may see a seal up a checklist at the visitor centers. or two on the rocks or in the water, Red fox heads up like periscopes. If you Because the red fox can be orange, have a powerful scope, you’ll see Butterflies silver, black or any combination that their whiskers are beaded like A 2004 survey reported 32 species thereof, look for its distinguishing strings of pearls. of butterflies on San Juan Island. mark: a bushy, white-tipped tail. First to arrive are sky blue River otters Island Birds Spring Azures, then Pale Tiger Columbian blacktail deer If you think you see a sea otter Swallowtails, Purplish Coppers, This is the largest land mammal in foraging in the intertidal areas, With over 200 species and a varied Silvery Blues, Brown Elfins, the San Juans, and native to the look again. It’s most likely a river habitat, many birders consider Two-Banded Checkered Skippers…. islands. They can be spotted almost otter. Look for them all along the American Camp to be one of the This is also home to the rare Island anywhere in the park and on American Camp best birdwatching areas in the Marble butterfly, thought to be roadsides. Note their large, bluff state. In the woodlands, you’ll find extinct but recently discovered on sensitive ears and tails—black on winter wrens, chestnut-backed the island in 1998. top and white underneath. chickadees and rufous hummingbirds. On the More Sea and shore prairie, look for American information goldfinches, Orca whales For more information on wildlife in trail, great As you walk the bluffs of American at the park, please ask a park ranger Camp between April and Jakle’s or uniformed volunteer. They’ll be September, listen for the soft Lagoon and happy to help. Also, visit our spouting of an Orca. You can’t in Garrison Bay website at www.nps.gov/sajh. miss them: a male’s dorsal fin can at English Camp. On the homepage, click on the be as tall as a man. “Nature and Science” link.