SINAI Sinai Sinai 454 however, a visit to Sinai will be one of the most memorable parts ofyourEgyptianhowever, travels. avisittoSinaiwillbeoneofthemostmemorableparts Bedouin culture andfollowingpilgrims’roadstobiblicalsites. Whatever captures yourfancy, highlights are ordivingamidteeming snorkelling coralreefs, encounters withtraditional close-up cityofPetra,home totherose-red oneoftheNew Seven Wondersof theWorld. Sinaiisalsoaconvenient jumping-offpointforsouthernJordan, laid-back townofDahab. enough placesforsea-and-sandholidays,thoughindependenttravellers prefer theeternally ofwhichthere areel-Sheikh, literally hundreds vying forbeachspace. Mostare amenable of themorningandevening sun.Sinaiaboundswithcontrasts,butnever ceasestocaptivate. interior. plainschangeintomany-huedpanoramasundertherays thedrydesert Headingnorth, the eastandwest.FromRedSeacoasts,rowsofbarren, red-brown mountainsfillthesouthern excellence – sands ofyears. WedgedbetweenAfrica andAsia, itisanintercontinental crossroads Sinai, aregion ofstarkbeauty,hasbeenaplacerefuge, andcuriosityforthou- conflict © LonelyPlanetPublications Of course, the real charm of Sinai is its stunning desert and marine environments – among the andmarineenvironments –amongthe course,therealOf charmofSinaiisitsstunningdesert The majorityofinternational touristsheadtotheglitzyEuropean-style ofSharm resorts Sinai isbordered andtheGulfs bytheMediterranean ofAqaba andSuezto Seatothenorth, heeded them not. foot-hills andplainsofdazzlingsand.Africa andAsia mightwatchwithjealouseyes,I thegreatout andstroke gauntflanksofthemountainfalling awayintobewildering Here, notforthefirsttime,Ifell deeplyinlove withthelandscape…Ilongedtoreach

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

Leave Egypt behind (for afew days) on Followthe footsteps of centuriesofpilgrims Climb Dive everything fromcoralmountainsto Gorge bythe yourselfonbananapancakes Petra an excursiontothe legendarycityof ( p490) on avisitto National Park ghostly shipwrecks in Dahab paradiseofoceanside inthebackpacker tain ofbiblicalproportions (p486) Mt Sinai (p472) prophets,nomads,exilesandconquerorshave alllefttheirfootprintshere. St Katherine’s MonasterySt Katherine’s ( p460) ( p492 ), thelegendarymoun- GW Murray, (London:George Dare MetotheDesert Allen&Unwin, 1967) Ras Mohammed St Katherine's Monastery Mt Sinai; National Park Ras Mohammed Dahab Petra par SINAI 455 (peasant (peasant fellaheen Exodus 19:4-6; 19:18-20:3 Tourism, too, has brought great changes, changes, Tourism, too, has brought great Thou shalt have no other gods before before other gods no shalt have Thou me. In recent years Sinai has become the become the Sinai has years In recent lice force, they have little means to resist all little means to resist lice force, they have this change. Climate on one hand it can is extreme: Sinai’s climate always to carry hot, so remember very get called the Al-Salam Canal, to bring fresh called the Al-Salam Canal, to bring fresh from the Suez Canalwater to various areas for been targeted North Sinai that have of is to be expanded Agriculture resettlement. and being paved dramatically, roads are being installed in desalination plants are coastal towns. Surveys Aqaba. especially around the Gulf of tourist town of that the southern estimate el-Sheikh has seenSharm popula- a tenfold and the in the past 15 years, tion increase Dahab and Nuweiba have of small villages tourist grown into sprawling beachfront towns. The Bedouin, the traditional inhab- in their now a minority Sinai, are itants of by Cairo-based tour land. Marginalised native po- and a suspicious and aggressive operators 6th century, it had been decided that this 6th century, it had been decided that this was the mountain God had spo- on which the peninsula For centuries thereafter, ken. be- later It pilgrimage. became a place of by to Mecca taken the routes came one of the majority recently Muslim pilgrims. Until Bedouin, its inhabitants were of the only surviving of capable in the people who are the peninsula. environment of harsh development and ‘reconstruction’ focus of the same way that the New Valley in much Desertin the Western was during the 1970s and 1980s, when landless Nile Valley from an overcrowded farmers) to the oases. to move encouraged were has built a new pipeline, The government Early in the Christian era, Sinai was a place Early was a place in the Christian era, Sinai Roman to escape Egyptians for Christian Monasticism is thoughtpersecution. to cen- as early as the 3rd here begun have most hermits settlingtury AD, with in the the assumption on Wadi Feiran, of caves that Gebel Serbal, nearby, was in located God’. By the time the fact the ‘Mountain of at a monastery Emperor Justinian founded Mt Sinai (Gebel Musa)the foot of in the SINAI •• History

In Pharaonic times the quarries of Sinai Sinai the quarries of times In Pharaonic

Tell the children of Israel; Ye have have Israel; Ye of the children Tell seen what I did unto the Egyptians… my my voice and keep If ye will obey then ye shall be a peculiar covenant, all people: for unto me above treasure And ye shall be all the earth is mine. a priests, and unto me a kingdom of holy nation. in And Mount Sinai was altogether because the Lord descended smoke, and the whole mount upon it in fire; And the Lord came greatly… quaked down upon Mount Sinai…and called mount… the Moses top of up to the all these words, say-And God spoke ing, I am the Lord thy God, which brought the land of thee out of have bondage. the house of out of Egypt, For many people, Sinai is first and fore- For many people, Sinai is first Some 40 million years ago the African and African and ago the 40 million years Some bush and it was at the summit of Mt Sinai bush and it was at the summit of Commandments his Ten that God delivered to Moses: ‘Children of Israel’ to safely gain access to the to safely Israel’ of ‘Children that God is said Sinai. It was here dry land of to Moses from a burning spoken first to have ebrated parting of the Red Sea parting of ebrated that allowed the Bible, across which the Israelites journeyed the Israelites Bible, across which the Promisedin search Land, of been having army by the cel- from the Egyptian delivered most the ‘great and terrible wilderness’ of the the of wilderness’ and terrible most the ‘great from what is now known as Israel and the as Israel and the from what is now known Palestinian Territories. Asia and Africa, it was of strategic value – value – strategic it was of and Africa, Asia many military along its forces marched to or they travelled northern coastline as of empire builders as well as the setting for as well as the setting builders for empire of Acting as a link between wars. countless ‘Land of Turquoise’ also made it the goal ‘Land Turquoise’ also made it the goal of provided great quantities of turquoise, turquoise, of quantities great provided this The importance of gold and copper. Kenya, and all the way down to Mozambique and all the way down to Mozambique Kenya, southern Africa. in and Jordan, through the Red Sea, Ethiopia, the earth) that extends 6000km from the the 6000km from extends the earth) that Dead Sea, on the border between Israel deep) Gulf of Suez and the much deeper deeper and the much Suez deep) of Gulf Aqaba, The Gulf of Aqaba. of (1800m) Gulf width, 14km to 25km in varies from which in the top layer of a rift (a crack is part of Arabian continental plates began to move Arabian continentalto move began plates (95m shallow the relatively apart, creating History History lonelyplanet.com SINAI 456 (100km) Cairo To (115km) Cairo To 33 SINAI Port Said

Ismailia

Qantara Suez Canal Suez Port Fuad Sukhna SINAI Ain Suez Zafarana Great Bitter Lake 55 At-Tina Bay Ahmed Hamdi Tunnel 3 Port Tawfiq Hammam Moses) (Springs of Ain Musa Sudr Ras Fara'un Mitla Pass Khatmia Pass Giddi Pass Abu Zenima Gharib Bir al- Ras Abu Rudeis Abd Gulf of Suez 66 ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

(Al-Ghardaka; Wadi al-Homur To Hurghada Qalaat al-Gindi Bir Gifgafa 60km)

Bardawil Barakat Sheikh Gebel Mukattab Lake Wadi

44 Maghara Gebel Serbal M EDITRAN Thamada (2070m) Bir ath- Badyat et-Tih

Feiran

al-Khadim Wadi Feiran Wadi Serabit S INA 33 Gemsa Protectorate ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Gebel Foga Zerenike

Gebel Katarina

SEA Al-Tor Straits of Gubal of Straits (2642m) Forest of G eblt-Tih Pillars Ras Mohammed Nakhl National Park Sheikh Awad Ferry to Al-Milga Jeddah Bir Hasana Al-Arish

Gebel St Katherine Protectorate 3 (Gebel Musa) Monument National St Katherine's Mt Sinai (2285m) Taba Monastery el Gunna Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ Na`ama Zuweid Sheikh Rafah Bay Gebel Barga Ras Nasrany Sharira Ain Khudra Pass (1163m) Tamad Gaza City Quseima Ain Umm Huweiyit Ahmed Wadi Protectorate

Gebel Wadi Nasb Sharm el-Sheikh Nabq Nabq Feirani Pass 30miles 50km 0 0 Ferry toHurghada(Al-Ghardaka) Sheikh Wadi Atiya Shark's Bay To TelAviv(82km); Jerusalem (92km) al-Furtega

Straits Protectorate THE PALESTINIAN Coloured Ras Abu Gallum Canyon Ain

of Dahab Tiran Island TERRITORIES Tiran 66 Pharaoh's ISRAEL & The Fjord lonelyplanet.com Ras an-Naqb Island Mayat Malkha

Gulf Nuweiba Mayat el-Wishwashi

of Mahash Bir Sweir Aqaba Heights Taba Taba Ras Shaitan S EA R ED

Ferry Eilat

S A U D I A R A B I A Aqaba JORDAN SINAI

457 de rigueur On a different note, while G-strings and while G-strings and note, On a different It is impossible to offer anything other other anything to offer It is impossible to part of North Sinai, but there are no no are North Sinai, but there to part of passenger services. Getting Around Because landscape, paved Sinai’s rugged of roads link only the permanent settlements, Getting There & Away Getting There & Away air hub is at Sharm Sinai’s international charters regular receives el-Sheikh, which from Europe in addition to local flights. airport in is also an international There only oc- receives though it currently Taba, travel, flights. For overland casional charter to the mainland by the peninsula is linked Tunnel, and by the the Ahmed Hamdi both of Bridge, Suspension Mubarak Peace to Cairo. connect to main arteries which goesThe 1.6km-long tunnel, which under the Suez Canal near Suez, was completed the a martyr of in 1982 and named after are There 24 hours. It is open 1973 war. buses connecting Cairofrequent other and towns on the destinations with all major A railway has been built Sinai Peninsula. ing majority of travellers to Sinai enjoy their travellers of ing majority without incident. visits topless sunbathing seem to be el-Sheikh, in Sharm for some tourist groups is a Egypt that be aware women should conservative country and tourists have been assaulted in Sinai. While rape is rare, it does occur, so do not sunbathe alone in location, and try to choose a an isolated somewhat modest bathing costume (best the string bikini at home!). You to leave in mind that as well as should also keep the local people, topless sunbath- offending ing is illegal in Sinai, as well as in the rest of Egypt. (Spring festival), and were carried out by out by carried and were festival), (Spring BedouinEgyptian The bombers. suicide stated that these later attacks government called an organisation of the work were (Monotheism wal-Jihad al-Tawhid Jama’at and Jihad). a fu- of the possibility regarding tional fear attack With that said, in Sinai. terrorist ture your embassy’s travel it’s worth checking on the situation an update advisory to get making any plans. However, it’s im- before that the overwhelm- portant to remember than blind speculation bordering on irra- speculation bordering than blind SINAI •• Dangers & Annoyances

On 24 April 2006, three bombs exploded bombs exploded On 24 April 2006, three On 23 July 2005 a series of coordinated coordinated On 23 July 2005 a series of In recent years, the region of Sinai has Sinai has of the region years, In recent crowds were celebrating Sham Al-Nasseim Al-Nasseim celebrating Sham crowds were centre of town and one near the Ghazala town and one near the Ghazala of centre killed 23 people – which Supermarket The attacks 75 people. over and injured during a public holiday where occurred in Dahab – two near the bridge in the in the in Dahab – two near the bridge by two other groups calling themselves the the by two other groups calling themselves and and Jihad Group in Egypt’ ‘Tawhid Egypt’. of ‘Holy Warriors was the first to claim responsibility for the for the to claim responsibility was the first made later attacks. Additional claims were ist action in the country’s history. A group Azzam Brigades’ calling itself the ‘Abdullah commemorates Nasser’s 1952 overthrow of of Nasser’scommemorates 1952 overthrow – it was the deadliest terror- King Farouk cided with Egypt’s Revolution Day, which Revolutioncided with Egypt’s Day, which bombings in the tourist market of Sharm Sharm of bombings in the tourist market el-Sheikh killed 88 people and injured closebombing coin- The to 200 people. were were unsuccessful. According to the Egyptian government, the government, According to the Egyptian who had tried to Palestinians were bombers but attacks Israel to carry out there enter of the Taba Hilton and exploded – 10 floors Hilton and exploded – 10 floors the Taba of collapsed the hotel following the blast. of injured over 150 people. The worst attack attack The worst 150 people. over injured into the lobby when a truck drove occurred tacks in the Taba area killed 34 people and area tacks in the Taba been thrust into the international spotlightbeen thrust into the international bomb- high-profile following a string of bomb at- 2004, three ings. On 7 October the country. ous terrain and – in more recent times – its recent and – in more ous terrain tourist masses,traditionally had a Sinai has higher parts of than other security profile between cultures and continents, its occa- between cultures its mountain-sionally tumultuous history, Dangers & Annoyances Dangers & Annoyances Because the peninsula’s unique position of out in winter requires a warm sleeping bag requires out in winter at this – snow is frequent and a good jacket year. of time pared with warm clothing, especially if you’ll clothing, especially with warm pared climbing Mt Sinai. Camping or be trekking gets very cold at night, the mountains and very gets day. Come pre- during the can be freezing ing a T-shirt while snorkelling is advisable), as while snorkelling ing a T-shirt while or scarf. On the other hand, well as a hat it can climb to 50°C, summer temperatures water, use copious amounts of sunblock and sunblock usewater, of copious amounts sunburn (wear- wear sensible to avoid clothes lonelyplanet.com SINAI tobe spots. trouble ers are agoodsourceof informationon particularly around WadiFeiran. Busdriv- and flashfloodsoften washout paved roads, that itrainswith somefrequency inSinai, inwinter, rememberWhen atthewheel mines leftover fromthewars withIsrael. theroad,astherewhen goingoff are still to exercise caution atalltimes.Sticktotracks Egypt. in overbe thecase elsewhere similar distances bargaining andpayingfarmore thanwould by taxi only possibletoarrange aservice ception of route thecoastal toAl-Tor,itis Elsewhere onthepeninsula,withex- andAl-ArishRafah withSuezandCairo). Sinai (primarilyalongtheroute connecting a popularmeansof transportinnorthern are taxis times there isonlyone. Service ple of connectionseach day–and some- therebut inmanycases are onlyacou- major destinations ifyoutravel bybus, elsewhere inEgypt. Youcanget toall and publictransportisnotasregular as 458 If youare drivingyourself, youwillneed the sea–withcare. thoughtfully. Andwherever youvisit,treat Sinai’secosystems –boththoseabove andbelow far more Youshouldcarryoutallyourlitter thantheycancollect. withyou,anddisposeofit organise regular andSharmel-Sheikh clubs located rubbishdives, inDahab andalwaysfind aware ofrubbish,whichhasbecomeanincreasingly seriousthreat toSinai’secosystems. Dive fashion–goonfootorbycamel,withthenecessaryprovisions.do itintheage-old Alsobe Ifyoureallyshow yousomethingthat’soffthebeaten track. wanttoexplore theregion indepth, trynottobepersuadedbyover-eagerto followtherules. guideswantingto Todoyourpart, and whilerangersdopatrolprotectorates, ofthe responsibility alarge isleftwithvisitors part AbuGallumandTaba.of Nabq,Ras Yet enforcementinSinai’svastwildernessareas isdifficult, areas, MohammedNationalPark includingRas going offroadincertain andtheprotected areas uprooting plantsandcontributingtoerosion. (four-wheeled motorcycles)insearchofpristinespots,andsodoing,churningupthesoil, inever-multiplyingseekers numbersare ploughingtheirwaythroughin4WDsandquadbikes recently, theonlypeopletowanderthroughthisregion were Bedouinoncamels. Nowadventure –have comeunderincreasingsurvival threat fromtherapidonslaughtoftourism.Untilrelatively are timesofplenty. and rockhyrax(aswellasforthegoatsherdedbylocalBedouinpeople),theserare occasions seeds thathave laindormantformonthsburstintolife. ForSinai’swildlife, suchasthegazelle of water ontothisparchedlandscape,theentire sceneistransformedintoaseaofgreenery as dunes. Onceevery few years,whenstormcloudsgatherover themountainsanddumpbuckets while asurprisinglyrichvarietyofplantstenuously clingtotheloose,sandyflanksof coastal sliced bydrygravel wadisinwhichsprouttheoddacaciatree orclumpofgnarledtamarisk, itisfulloflife.Although muchofSinaiismadeuphot,drydesert, Craggymountainsare PROTECTING SINAI’SFRAGILEECOSYSTEMS OS • AnMs COAST ••AinMusa In ordertominimisetheenvironmentaldamage,government hasbannedvehicles from Yet thesefragile ecosystems –whichdependonadelicate balanceofconditionsfortheir threw aspecialtree into thesprings,miracu- bitter todrink–tooktheadvice of Godand –ondiscoveringMoses thatthewater wastoo camped after crossingintoSinai, andwhere be theplacewhere andtheIsraelites Moses to orthe‘Springsof issaid Ain Musa Moses’ AIN MUSA culture. Bedouin lated beaches, superbcoralreefs andunique regular pilgrimages tothecoast for itsiso- the majority of international travellers make alter the simplefactthat course, thisdoesn’t the world’smajor monotheistic religions. Of and todaytheregion remains sacred to all have isolated shores, playedoutagainstthese of humanhistory’smostsignificantevents millenniasome thepastseveral ternity. Over the members of theinternational divingfra- for package-tourism destinationandnirvana for theworld’spoliticalleaders, abooming spotofthe SinaiCoastismeeting choice A barren coastlineof extraordinary beauty, COAST lonelyplanet.com SINAI 459 , which 377 4343; www %

( (admission E£20) Moses Bay Hotel , which also happens to be the the also happens to be , which ) Hammam Musa Hammam Musa as 069 About 5km from town are some hot springs 5km from town are About National Bank of Egypt has a branch with has a branch Egypt National Bank of The focal point of wind- and kite-surfing wind- and kite-surfing The focal point of Hammam Fara’un is about 50km south of is about 50km south of Fara’un Hammam .mosesbayeltur.com; 7-night all-inclusive package per person .mosesbayeltur.com; US$200; approximately Located nicest place in the area. Moses on the beach, 3km from town smack dab sand, pleas- of Bay stretch has its own private and a wind- and kite- ant rooms, a restaurant, Althoughit’s not as upscale as surfing centre. office. If you’ve overstayed your welcome welcome your overstayed If you’ve office. your visa at the extend you can in Egypt, building administrative Mogamma, the large town centre. on the main road in the known as the possible been one of tradition holds to have stopping points used by Moses and the Israelites on their journey through Sinai. It’s possible to some paved are bathe in the springs, and there small café. and a area walkways, a changing in Al-Tor is the swimming in anything more daring than leg- swimming in anything more baggy T-shirt. gings and a Ras It’s Arabic. only in Sudr, and signposted transport or with a best to visit with your own ), especially since left tour from Moon Beach ( the springs. is no place to stay near there AL-TOR % Al-Tor, also known as Tur Sinai, has been a significant port since ancient times, though today it primarily serves as the administra- the South Sinai Governorate. capital of tive With stiff and constant similar to breezes those buffeting north the coastline further around Ras Sudr, Al-Tor has been trying in to establish itself years wind- and as a recent kite-surfing destination. the post near in the town centre it’s an ATM; Buses to Cairo (E£25, two to three hours) Buses to Cairo hours) to three (E£25, two A taxi2pm and 4pm. at 7.30am, depart from the bus station in Ras Beach Sudr to Moon to E£30. E£25 costs about FARA’UN HAMMAM Bath, is the or Pharaoh’s Fara’un, Hammam that is com- a hot-springs complex of site monly used by local Bedouin for as a cure from arthritis to various ailments ranging in a cave located are rheumatism. The springs hot for all but too but are beside the beach, fans. Women hot-springs the most dedicated avoid should the waters who decide to brave 581 0088; www % (

Moon Beach ) is where the British magazine the British magazine is where •• Ras COAST Sudr ai tests equipment each year. Located on Located year. equipment each tests

069 One of the most famous places for wind- the One of It’s best to visit with your own vehicle, or own vehicle, It’s best to visit with your The site is about 25km south of the Ahmed south of 25km is about The site

East Delta has a bus station along the main The town centre, which lies just off the lies just off the which The town centre, road about 500m south of the main junction. the main road about 500m south of tact Moon Beach for more information. more tact Moon Beach for surfing centre, as well as a fully licensed school surfing centre, all kinds. Nightly rates of for budding surfers – con- available are packages and shorter-stay all the trimmings. Additionally, there’s a pro- all the trimmings. Additionally, there’s wind- and kite- staffed and stocked fessionally the Gulf of Suez just off the main coastal Suez just off road, the Gulf of Moon Beach bungalows with beachfront has son US$650; Boards .moonbeachretreat.com; 7-night all-inclusive package.moonbeachretreat.com; per per- and kite-surfing, and kite-surfing, shops. Well away from here, to the south and shops. Well away from here, inter- resorts ageing a handful of north, are holiday villas. with blocks of spersed main highway, several boasts small restau- rants, a post office, a bank and various small up coastal time-share villas. However, with up coastal time-share winds blowing at mostly force uninterrupted or six, Sudr does five enjoy a fine reputation among windsurfers. bypassed Sudr, though fami- wealthy Cairene than happy to snatch been more lies have into a resort area. Due to the lack of offshore offshore Due to the lack of area. into a resort community has mostly the international reefs, proximity to Cairo have spurred its transition spurred to Cairo have proximity % Ras de- Sudr (or simply Sudr) was originally Egypt’s as the baseveloped for one of town though its coastline and oil refineries, largest RAS SUDR RAS SUDR on a tour organised through one of the hotels the hotels throughon a tour organised one of ). All buses heading south below in Ras Sudr ( off, and will drop you though it pass by here onward transport. can be difficult to find and a nearby settlement. There’s also no drink- and a nearby settlement. There’s too brackish, is (as the spring water able water special tree). Moses’ with no sign of at the site is possible in theory, but unappealingat the site the roadway of the proximity due to the litter, together with a group of eager guides. Camping eager a group of with together Hamdi Tunnel, just off the main road and the main road and Tunnel, just off Hamdi over It is watched in Arabic. only signposted from the antiquities department,by an officer lously sweetening the water. Unfortunately, Unfortunately, sweeteninglously the water. springs the 12 original however, one of only is now sadlystill exists, and with litter filled palms. date by a standand surrounded of lonelyplanet.com SINAI more than50,000 visitors annually, enticed The parkisinundatedof with theRedSea. ninsula are considered thejewelin thecrown man’s profile. Thewaters surrounding thepe- thatresembles a local fishermenfor acliff per vehicleadditionalUS$5; Mohammed NationalPark road fromAl-Torliestheheadland of About 20kmwestof Sharm onthe el-Sheikh transport directly with the hotel. Hotel, oryoucanarrange Bay to theMoses you canhire apick-upforE£10totake you to E£15,1½hours). Fromthebusstation, thedaytoSharmthroughout (E£12 el-Sheikh departfrom7amonwardsHotel. Buses andabout 700mfromtheDelmon hospital, road atthenorthernedge of townopposite the you’re prepared abiton tosacrifice the glitz. itoffers greatMoon Beach, valueassuming 460 RAS MOHAMMEDNATIONAL PARK The East Delta bus station isalongthemain busstation Delta The East of themostimpressive sites is Sinai’s ruggedexpansesare dotted withtracesofearlysettlements andpilgrimageroutes. One HISTORY’S FOOTPRINTS of mines in1901. andstelae wereof theworkings damagedwhentheBritishunsuccessfullytriedtorevive the 3rd dynasty,give evidenceofancientturquoiseminingactivities. many Unfortunately, further a visit.Here Sinai’slargest ofrockinscriptionsandstelae, collection somedatingbacktothe east throughWadiFeiran via ment ofAbuZenima or,more interestingly, offtheroadrunning fromatrackbranchingnorth is thoughttohave beenabandonedduringthereign VII. ofRamses andTuthmosistemple’s includingHatshepsut(1473–1458BC) benefactors, It III(1479–1425BC). inscriptions listthe Throughout thetemple’sto Sopdu,godoftheEastern manycourts, Desert. the 12thdynastyandisdedicated tothegoddessHathor. shrine BesideitisaNewKingdom tion, turquoisewasminedhere The temple asfarbacktheOldKingdom. itselfdates backto ancient turquoiseminesandstarklybeautifullandscapes. Despite theremoteness oftheloca- to arrange a jeep trip with Moon Beach resort ( to arrangeajeeptripwithMoonBeachresort p459 ), orwithanoutfitin Na’amaBay. phenomenon accessiblewith4WDandcamelviaalongtrack. can negotiate foraguideinthevillageofFeiran. scrambling, butcanbehandledbyanyonewhoisreasonably fit.ComingfromWadiFeiran, you and climbforaboutanhour. The trackupthemountainissteep attimesandinvolves abitof At theendofthisyou’llneedtoparkyourvehicleto thetrailleadingupSerabital-Khadim. closest hotels are inAl-Tor Sudr),andorganise youtheremaining andRas aguidetotake 7km where youcancamp(the Barakat, track toyourleft.After about3kmyou’llcometoSheikh just southofAbuZenima, forabout39km.Whenyouseeawhite the domeonyourright,take trackthatleadsoffintothedesert, Sudr,followthemarked and getaguide:comingfromRas OS • RsMhme ainlPr Mohammed NationalParkCOAST ••Ras Gebel Foga Heading inland from Serabit al-Khadim, another track takes you through the colourful wadis youthroughthecolourful anothertracktakes Heading inlandfromSerabital-Khadim, canbereachedSerabit al-Khadim viaanunsignposted trackjustsouthofthecoastalsettle- If you’re travelling inyourownvehicle, youcanheadintothevillageof All ofthesedestinationsrequire guidesanda4WD.The moststraightforwardwaytovisitis tothecliffs thatedgeGebelet-Tih andthe

h

(admission perpersonUS$5, 8am-5pm) Wadi Mukattab Serabit al-Khadim , namedby Ras (Valley of Inscriptions), which itself is well worth ofInscriptions),whichitselfiswellworth (Valley but since thenhasproved its value inprevent- tion, theparkwas thesubjectof controversy, tional parkin1989. Atthetimeof itsdeclara- in1983andbecameEgypt’s firstreserve na- conditions. climatic andpast levels mation aboutchanging sea are aninvaluablesourceof scientificinfor- tion andstructure topresent-day reefs, they theyare similarincomposi- years. Because are fossilreefs datingbacksometwomillion Mohammed The mostancientcoralsatRas History and whale sharks. rays pelagics, such ashammerheads,manta in thepark’swaters, includingsought-after 1000speciesof fishcanbeseen the RedSea’s and teemingmarinelife. Most,ifnotall,of tems, including aprofusion of coralspecies coral-reefworld’s mostspectacular ecosys- by the prospect of marvelling atsome ofby theprospectof the marvelling , aruinedPharaonic temple surroundedby Ras Mohammed wasdeclaredRas amarine Forest ofPillars , anaturallyoccurring Sheikh Barakat Sheikh lonelyplanet.com

SINAI ,

461 NP Shark 2 km Eel Garden Main Beach 1 mi Aqaba Eel Garden Beaches Observatory Bay Yolanda Lookout

Bay Ras Mohammed Ras Hidden Channel

Mangrove (100km) , excellent for snorkel- 0 0 00 5 km 3 miles Ferry to Hurghada (Al-Ghardaka) (8km); Dahab To Na'ama Bay National Park Ras Mohammed , which gets crowded with crowded with gets , which and a camping area. Yellow Yellow and a camping area. , which border the , which Old Quay Marsa Bareika ὄ ὈὈ ὈὈ Marsa Bareika Marsa Ghoslane Main Beach Sharm el-Sheikh Centre Visitors Aqaba Beaches Khashaba Beach At the park’s laboratory, a pink trail leads At the park’s laboratory, If you arrive at the national park by private park by private at the national If you arrive with colour-coded trails and clearly marked marked and clearly trails with colour-coded offers. site each what of pictograms of offshore reefs – you will need to bring your reefs offshore of own equipment. to and calm arrows lead to the sandy beaches of waters places the best of one but remains day visitors, to see lead coral walls. Brown arrows vertical to garden eels 20m a colony of named after Activities Activities in Ras to dive planning Mohammed, If you’re boat tour or a live- via a you will need to arrive typically depart from which of aboard, both ). For p472 ( ) or Dahab p462 el-Sheikh ( Sharm as well as operators, on dive information more in the national sites the best dive an overview of . p447 see park, wilder- to a variety of car, it’s possible to hike on a variety and go snorkelling beaches ness Blue arrows take for children. ling and safe you to Gate Entrance Camping See Enlargement ὈὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Marsa Bareika Beach Khashaba 10am-sunset Bareika Beaches Main Gate 66 h (

National Park Ras Mohammed NP Mohammed Ras Ras Mohammed (headland), Tiran Island, (headland), Tiran visitors’ centre S t r a i t o f G u b a l ras •• Ras COAST Mohammed National Park with a restaurant is clearly marked to is clearly marked with a restaurant

The entrance to the park is about 20km is about The entrance to the park You’ll need the park. to enter your passport RAS MOHAMMED NATIONAL PARK To Al-Tor (68km) Ras 480 sq occupies a total Mohammed of and the shoreline between Sharm el-Sheikh between Sharm and the shoreline Nabq Protectorate. harbour and here, and you may be able to pick up a booklet and you may be able here, highlighting The park is laid out local fauna. the left of the main access road in an area in an area the main access road the left of shown Videos are Ghoslane. known as Marsa from the reefs. A from the reefs. have any problem on dive boat trips – check boat trips – check on dive any problem have any doubts. you have clubs if with the dive Sharm el-Sheikh boundary, but should not el-Sheikh but should boundary, Sharm Visitors on Sinai-only permits cannot go to Visitors as it is beyond the Ras overland Mohammed

km of land and sea, land km of the desert including in and around the Orientation & Information & Information Orientation has transformed the Sharm el-Sheikh coast. the Sharm has transformed the park only 12% of not permitted, are Hotels applied and limits are to visitors is accessible boats allowed. dive of to the number ing the area’s fragile environment from being from being fragile environment area’s ing the development that sort of by the destroyed lonelyplanet.com

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ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ SINAI not reflect this underwater beauty. bays of andSharm Na’ama Bay al-Maya, does thetwoadjacent whichel-Sheikh, comprises Unfortunately, thebrashresort townof Sharm attracting visitors fromallover theglobe. this asnorkelling andscuba-divingparadise, and outof thecolourfulcoralhave made incredible varietyof exoticfishdartingin waters,tal-clear rare andlovely reefs andan most amazingunderwater scenery.Thecrys- National Park, features someof the world’s Mohammed Tiranbetween IslandandRas The southern coastof theGulfof Aqaba, % SHARM EL-SHEIKH&NA’AMABAY forbidden toleave the official tracks. reasons, it’s of theparkand,forconservation vehicle. Accessisrestricted parts tocertain on the Red Sea. often inbyboat fromtouristcentres brought to payfromE£150.Alternatively, divers are at thebeaches andsnorkelling sites. Expect mostofNa’ama Bay, which willdropyou orbusfromSharmby jeep and el-Sheikh tion istojoinoneof the manydaytours If youdon’tmindcompany,theeasiestop- but expecttopayatleastE£150fortheday. from Sharm tobringyouhere, el-Sheikh If youdon’thave acar,youcanhire ataxi Getting There&Around prosecuted. be and ifyou’re violatingthem,youmay caught rulesarefor long.Camp enforcedbyrangers here underthesand mean thatnothingstays toilet paperorrubbish, astherelentless winds ment andcleanup.Inparticular,don’tbury Ifyoucamp,respectel-Sheikh. theenviron- plies withyou;thenearest shopsare inSharm the entrancegate. tobringallsup- You’ll need with permits(perperson US$5)available from ispermitted indesignatedCamping areas, Sleeping fish andaccessible to snorkellers. Quay the good snorkelling, andgreen arrowsleadto rows leadto Mohammed’s rich offerings.Ras Thered ar- sharksastheyfeed from can sometimessee to down. Justbeyondhere, orange arrowslead 462 To move a aroundtheparkyou’llneed Shark Observatory 069 Mangrove Channel Mangrove , a spectacular vertical, aspectacular reef teeming with OS • SamE-hih&N’m a &Na’amaBay COAST ••SharmEl-Sheikh Yolanda Bay , a cliff-top area where you , acliff-top and , anotherbeach with Hidden Bay Hidden andto Old owed byirresponsible touristdevelopment. overshad-truly exquisite divinghasbeen (p472). Dahab en route tothemore low-key resort townof toskipSharm, onlywise passingthrough anindependenttraveller,yourself you’dbe ifyouconsider However, identity iserased. ter of timebefore of anysemblance Egyptian clave ontheedge of Sinai,andit’sjustamat- is shapinguptobeanexclusive Europeanen- heart’s content, Sharm welcometoparadise. morning anddineonWestern foodtoyour party withforeigners hours intothewee of the it is.Ifyouwanttoindulge inresort living, transform more of the coastline. condos, andtheurbansprawlthreatens to surrounding area aslotsare upfor divvied Even worse isthehavoc onthe beingwrought splash about inpoolsringedwalls. bysecurity wave of primarilyEuropeanholiday-makers other forprimebeach space,whilewave upon huge concrete blocksof hotels jockey witheach with allthecharm of ashoppingmall.Today core divers Vegas–style isnowagated Las strip was onceasmallvillage thatattracted hard- ill-fated transformationinrecent years. What famous resort destinationhasundergone an lers theworldover, Sinai’slargest andmost known as Sharm OldMarket, with aselection centresBay, onalarge, walledmarket area access tothe taxi central area. treats withtheirownpatch of andeasy sand areBay comparatively tranquil upscalere- of theresorts liningthecoastnorthof Na’ama strip yougo,thequieter thingsbecome:most Thefurtherawayfromthiscentral ient base. restaurants and shops –isthemost conven- and apedestrians-onlyarea linedwithhotels, –consistingofBay abeachfront promenade mind thecrushof pedestrians,centralNa’ama being inthecentre of theactionanddon’t Ifyouenjoy from thebeach atNa’amaBay. Most resorts are clustered alongorjustinland Sea, see p439 . For more informationondivingintheRed fromboattripsdepartingDahab. even Park are easilyaccessiblebylive-aboards, or Mohammed National and theadjacentRas offshoreHowever, dive sites inbothSharm Orientation It’s somethingof atragedy thatSharm’s Known simplyasSharm bypackage travel- Sharm al-Maya, about6kmwestof Na’ama It’s easy to criticise Sharm,It’s easytocriticise butitiswhat Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels SINAI C2 B2 C4 C4 D1 C4 D1 B4 D1 C5 To 463 12 6 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Shark’s 14 7 Bay (6km); 16 Dahab (80km) Airport (10km); S E A R E D

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B 3 66 2 19 C4 D2 D1 C5 C5 A5 B3 B3 B3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Sharm Sharm Old Market al-Maya El-Sheikh •• Sharm COAST & Na’ama Bay See Sharm El-Sheikh Map (p464) Middle Garden...... Near Garden...... Temple Reef...... Hospital...... Café...... Speednet Internet 6) Far Garden...... (see Medical Center...... Ras Um Sid Reef...... Sharm Medical Centre...... INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Fiasco Reef...... (see 9) Fiasco Reef...... (see Sharm el-Sheikh Hyperbaric Sharm el-Sheikh International Amphoras Reef...... Mount Sinai Clinic...... (see 14) Mount Sinai Clinic...... (see Bay Sharm el-Sheikh 1 Spread out on a cliff top above Sharm al- Sharm out on a cliff top above Spread To Ras To Mohammed National Park (40km); Cairo (510km) SHARM EL-SHEIKH & NA'AMA BAY NA'AMA & EL-SHEIKH SHARM which is rimmed by a barren network of network of is rimmed by a barren which Maya is the administrative area of Hadaba, Hadaba, of area is the administrative Maya heavily rebuilt. On the southwestern edge of of edge On the southwestern rebuilt. heavily the port. is al-Maya Sharm tragic bombings of July 2005 and has been tragic bombings of of inexpensive eateries. A large section of the section of A large eateries. inexpensive of in the was badly damaged area Old Market lonelyplanet.com SINAI next to Marina toMarina next Sharm Hotel) Na’ama Bay Sam complex. Sharm perhrE£5; Bay rd,Sharmel-Sheikh; h selection ofbooks selection and magazines. bookshop,withareasonable best-stocked el-Sheikh’s rd, Na’amaBay; Speednet Internet Café Speednet Internet Naama Internet Felicita.Net Cafe Al-Awamy Internet internet cafésdotted around town. Many hotels have internet accessandthere are ACCESSINTERNET police Tourist Ambulance EMERGENCY Al-Ahram Bookshop Information 464 Bay; perhrE£20; Market, Sharm el-Sheikh; perhrE£5; Sharmel-Sheikh; Market, BOOKSHOPS Suez (340km) Park (30km);Al-Tor (100km); To RasMohammedNational (Al-Ghardaka) Ferry toHurghada SHARM EL-SHEIKH 24hr) Above the Egyptian American 24hr) AbovetheEgyptianAmerican Bank. El-Masrien...... ot&FryOfc...... A3 Port &FerryOffice...... EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION Tourist Police...... TRANSPORT Sharm Express...... Safsafa Restaurant...... Al-Ahram Beverages...... Abou Hamada...... Youth Hostel...... National BankofEgypt(ATM)... Main PostOffice...... Banque duCaire...... Al-Awamy InternetCafé...... Egypt Air...... Supermarket El-Baraka...... King...... (see 13) Telephone Centrale...... OS • SamE-hih&N’m a &Na’amaBay COAST ••SharmEl-Sheikh (Map (Map p466 ; ( (Map (Map p466 ; Na’ama Bay;perhrE£20; % 15

h Hadaba h 123) (Map (Map p466 ; Na’amaCentre, Na’ama 10am-1.30pm &6-8pm)Sharm noon-3am) (Map (Map p466 ; Sharm-Na’ama Bay % Mp p464 ; (Map (Map (Map p463 ; Sharm-Na’ama 360 0554,3660675;booth (Map (Map p464 ; SharmOld 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 C1 B1 B2 B1 B1 B1 B1 D2 D2 D2 D2 D2 D2 B1 % h h 12 366 0311); 24hr) IntheDelta 24hr) 11 Market al-Maya Sharm Sharm Old 10 13 1 R EDSA Public Beach To Na’amaBay(6km); 8 9 Airport (14km); Dahab (85km) pick Hotel the bus station. Sharm-Na’ama Bayrd,Sharmel-Sheikh; Supermarket. St,Na’amaBay; ofBahrain King Yes BusinessCentre Centre (MapCentre p466 ), as well asATMs inthe inNa’ama including several Na’ama Bay, You willfindATMs few every metres in MONEY Center Sharm Medical Hospital International Sharm el-Sheikh [email protected]; Sharmel-Sheikh; Center Medical Hyberbaric Sharm el-Sheikh Omar &Pharmacy MountSinaiClinic MEDICAL SERVICES el-Sheikh; el-Sheikh; p463; p463; (Map related medicalproblemsaswell ordinary ailments. Coralia Hotel E£15; h % 14 (Map (Map 11am-1am) Between Mall 7andAvis11am-1am) BetweenMall car rental. 366 0893/4/5;Sharm-Na’amaBayrd,Sharm h (Map (Map % 24hr p466 ; 366 0922/3,0122124292;hyper_med p463 ; Na’ama Bay); ( 66 % Na’ama Bay)Specialisesindiving- (Map (Map p466 ; Na’amaBay;perhr (Map (Map p463 ; 012 2189889; 400m 0.2miles 0 0 (Map (Map p466 ; To RasUmSid 6 h 7 (2.5km) Sofitel Sharm el-Sheikh Sofitel Sharmel-Sheikh 24hr) AtShamandura

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Ras Ras and 465 Fiasco Fiasco Near and Temple Temple (Map (Map p463 ), another (Map (Map p463 ). The Near also has a good reef, which is which also has a good reef, (Map p463 ), or the even more ), or the even more p463 (Map (Map p463 ), near the lighthouse at p463 (Map Far Garden Far Amphoras Reef Shark’s Bay (Map p463 ) are within easy swimming ) are p463 (Map It’s possible to get to more distant by sites to more It’s possible to get Another prime spot for snorkelling is snorkelling Another prime spot for Most dive clubs rent out masks, snorkels and out masks, snorkels clubs rent Most dive For an overview of the history of terrorism terrorism of the history overviewFor an of SNORKELLING & DIVING & DIVING SNORKELLING rules apply to snorkellers as to divers. As snor- As as to divers. rules apply to snorkellers their waters, to shallower to stick tend kellers than those to reefs damage do more fins often your distance to keep care so take divers, of on reef-protectionfrom the corals. For more ). p450 ( text see the boxed measures, Um Sid Reef Um Sid Reef is known for its fan el-Sheikh, which Sharm airport, Tickets rays in springtime. by large frequented at the issued usefor beach cost E£15, and are the beach. camps on the left side of at can be arranged boat, which joining a dive clubs; expect to pay US$25 most local dive the clubs of to US$50 for a day trip. Many trips to Ras also do snorkelling Mohammed starting), with prices at p461 ( National Park is some excellent about US$50. While there be that you’ll the park, be sure in snorkelling destina- to a suitable as some dive taken site, and not always ideal for snorkellers, tions are not that are strong currents have some areas the faint-hearted. for fins. Remember that the same reef-protection the Hyatt Regency hotel. All can be reached on All can be reached hotel. the Hyatt Regency by one a boat organised foot, or you can take drinking bring plenty of the diving centres; of sunblock along. and water although fish, the small corals and plethora of is parcelled up between severalbeach resorts Apart from Ras crowded. quite and can get Um Sid Reef, the popular Reefs des- primarily dive distance, and while they’re of a taste can still get tinations, snorkellers Besidetheir flora and fauna. Carlton the Ritz is hotel spot. On the road to the popular snorkelling in Sinai, see p457 . p457 seein Sinai, Activities Snorkelling in the waters some easily accessed are there excellent. While around Sharm is Na’ama Bay, in central make to reefs it’s better impressive the more your way to Middle Gardens beautiful at the northern Garden is around the point hotel, bay just below the Sofitel the end of below are Gardens and the Middle and Far 8.30am- 360 1423; 8.30am-2pm h 6pm-1am) ATM. % h 9am-2pm & h (Map p466 ; Na’ama h (Map p466 ; King of p466 (Map (Map p464 ; Bank St; p464 (Map 364 0466; Rosetta 360 1808; Gafy Mall, % (Map p466 ; % Hadaba

9am-1pm & 6-10pm Sat-Thu, Sat-Thu, 9am-1pm & 6-10pm Na’ama Bay 8.30am-2pm & 6-10pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-2pm & 6-10pm Sat-Thu, (Map p464 ; Bank St, Hadaba; p464 (Map (Map p464 ; Bank St; p464 (Map El-Sheikh •• Sharm COAST & Na’ama Bay h (Map p464 ; Hadaba; h (Map p464 ; Bank St, Hadaba; p464 (Map (Map p466 ; p466 (Map 8.30am-2pm Mon-Thu) American Express 8.30am-2pm Mon-Thu) (Map p466 ; p466 (Map Hadaba

h (Map p466 ; Na’ama Centre; ; Na’ama Centre; p466 (Map 8.30am-2.30pm Sat-Thu) 8.30am-2.30pm 24hr). 8.30am-2pm & 6-9pm Sat-Thu, 9am-1pm & 6-9pm Fri); 8.30am-2pm & 6-9pm Sat-Thu, 10-11am Fri) 3-10pm Fri) Hotel, Na’ama Bay; h Sun-Thu) Sharm-Na’ama Bay rd, Na’ama Bay; Sharm-Na’ama Bay rd, Na’ama Star Hotel. 6-10pm) Just west of Sinai of the attack clearly remain. the attack of was nearly complete, and tourist numbers and tourist numbers was nearly complete, to normal, although the scars returning were to free concerts. At the time of writing, re- concerts. At the time of to free establishments the affected construction of ing to revive tourism to the city with incen- ing to revive flight ranging from discounted prices tives increased security at all Sharm el-Sheikh ho- securityincreased at all Sharm around the and began building a fence tels has also been work- town. The government Ghazala Hotel in Na’ama Bay. In the wake in Na’ama Bay.Ghazala Hotel In the wake government the bombings, the Egyptian of in the Sharm Old Market area and near the area Old Market in the Sharm In July 2005, three terrorist bombs exploded terrorist In July 2005, three el-Sheikh, killing 88 people and in Sharm was damage 200. The worst injuring over Telephone centrale Telephone Dangers & Annoyances you can dial internationally for E£4 to E£7 you can dial internationally per minute. enade. Cardsbut enade. be bought can everywhere, by shopkeepers. out for overcharging watch where also several call centres are There There are several cardphones in Na’ama Bay are There prom- and at least two on the beachfront TELEPHONE TELEPHONE Main post office POST POST Western Union Thomas Cook National Bank of Egypt Egyptian American Bank Commercial International Bank Banque du Caire Banque Misr lobbies of most larger hotels. Otherwise, hotels. all most larger of lobbies Hadaba. in branches have banks the major Bay; Center, Na’ama lonelyplanet.com h h Na’ama Bay Na’ama Bay; Resort. agent; diagonally opposite Cataract 2pm & 5-8pm Sun-Thu); 2pm & 5-8pm Sun-Thu); St) ATM. Bahrain SINAI ie, se p439 . see sites, including recommended operators anddive of publicbeach. there’s However, noreef, and itsregulations apply here. Mohammedpart of NationalPark theRas the beaches andwaters of are Na’amaBay 11pm, andthatdespite allthedevelopment, afterit’s illegaltoswimoff Na’ama Bay Keep thesand. tosee inmindthat difficult it issocrowdedwithrental chairs thatitis Hilton Fayrouz but Village onNa’amaBay, stretch of public beach diagonally opposite viashuttle. Therebe accessed isanarrow andcanonly to 10km)fromthehotel itself beaches of somehotels are (up fairlydistant another resort. Checkwhenbooking,asthe stretch of waterfront, orbyagreement with also have beach access–eithertheirown boats andglass-bottom boats.Mosthotels pedalos,bananawindsurfing, parasailing, lessons,water sports, includingsailing Most major hotels offer arange of other WATER SPORTS 466 NA'AMA BAY (6km) el-Sheikh To Sharm In Sharm al-Maya there isalsoastretch ofFor anoverview divingintheRedSea, Western Union...... INFORMATION Yes BusinessCentre...... Tourist Police...... Thomas Cook...... Omar &Pharmacy...... (see23) National BankofEgypt&ATM..(see4) Naama Internet...... (see4) Na'ama Centre...... Mount SinaiClinic...... Felicita.Net...... (see 2) Egyptian AmericanBank...... Commercial InternationalBank..(see4) A2 Al-Ahram Bookshop...... OS • SamE-hih&N’m a &Na’amaBay COAST ••SharmEl-Sheikh 1 27 20 8 17

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ais Shark’s Bay Bedouin Home Ocean Bay Hotel cation is everything, and the Ocean Bay is cation is everything, and the Ocean Bay is Na’ama Bay’s within easy walking distance of Although you might promenade. beachfront grounds for on the hotel not want to linger 400m to the right-hand for Gardenia turn-off Plaza, then turn and continue 2km further to Shark’s Bay. MIDRANGE Sunset Hotel Sunset the three-star hotel, is a able midrange good deal assuming you don’t mind being off spruced rooms are Slightlythe beach. ageing a few addition of up a bit with the careful pool is as well-placed rugs, though the large inviting as it’s ever been. If you start to get you can easily access the a little cabin fever, Um Sid. at Rasbeach US$55; 0942; www.sharksbay.com; sea-view huts s/d/tr US$12/15/18, 0942; www.sharksbay.com; sea-view s/d/tr US$30/40/50; cabin s/d from US$15/20, room This long-standing Bedouin-owned camp, Bay Umbi, has a re- also known as Shark’s simple but clean huts with ambience, laxed cliff, bathrooms up on the and pricier shared and bathroom. huts down below with air-con also the Bedouin-style Shark’s There’s tented Bay Umbi Restaurant (mains E£20 to E£35) the camp, To reach the water. overlooking Bay ‘Shark’s Bedouin’; the taxijust tell driver E£25 from Na’ama Bayexpect to pay about If you’re and E£50 from the port at Sharm. the airport road from town driving, take and to a right-hand for the Savoy turn-off follow this road for Conrad Concorde hotels, available if you book in advance, especially especially book in advance, if you available package. all-inclusive an of as part BUDGET Youth Hostel Hadaba; r from E£60; shabby affair to place cheapest is that it’s the soulless, utterly Rooms are stay area. in the in the won’t put you nightbut at least a here near poorhouse. It’s up on the hill in Hadaba, the police station and mosque and away from microbuses though pass the beach, frequent Bay you to Na’ama by that can take or Ras Um Sid. set.com; Hadaba; r from US$50; concrete box is not exactly one of the most the most one of is not exactly box concrete block. But, in the on the atmospheric hotels lo- rapidly expanding sprawl that is Sharm, •• Sharm El-Sheikh COAST & Na’ama Bay Be advised scene in Sharm that the hotel If you’re travelling on a budget, there’s lit- there’s a budget, on travelling If you’re The Shark’s Bay area, about 6km north- Bay area, The Shark’s The entire coast from Na’ama Bay coast from Na’ama north- The entire If you’re looking for a decent hotel that looking for a decent hotel If you’re noting that cheaper rate are nearly always nearly always are rate noting that cheaper give approximate prices for hotels, it’s worth it’s worth prices for hotels, approximate give parts of the country, and are subject to wild the country, and are parts of fluctuations depending on the number of to tried tourists in town. Although we’ve prices in Sharm are more volatile than other more are prices in Sharm is changing rapidly, which means that the the means that rapidly, which is changing to become following information is likely that in mind quickly. Also keep outdated staying at any of these top-end resorts, your thesestaying top-end resorts, at any of for. catered every whim will be rapidity. Today this stretch of coast is now of rapidity. Today this stretch – if you’re luxury hotels exclusive a row of quiet Bedouin village, though over the past quiet Bedouin though over village, decade has been developed with amazing east of Na’ama Bay, was once home to a Na’ama Bay, was once home to a east of five-star resorts. Flaunting luxury names, all resorts. five-star tours, on all-inclusive to visitors geared are from outside Egypt usually booked and are a package. or as part of wards towards the airport has been the tar- construction boom in recent a massive of get of number and is now home to a large years, set back a bit. set back in Na’ama Bay are generally pricey affairs, generally in Na’ama Bay are choose deal, though one that’s for a better tle buses to take guests to the beach at Rastle buses guests to the beach to take Um Sid or to Na’ama Bay. Beachfront hotels strip – prices are more reasonable than on reasonable more strip – prices are shut- and most places have the waterfront, Hadaba. While lacking ambience – most ho- While lacking Hadaba. along or near a wide concrete spread are tels won’t break the bank, a cluster of midrange midrange of the bank, a cluster won’t break rimming has sprung up in the area hotels if you’re serious about pinching your pennies, serious pinching about if you’re to Dahab. wiseit’s probably to continue on has one of the greatest concentration of ho- concentration of the greatest has one of to have going to though you’re in Egypt, tels is accommodation Budget here. pay to play op- of and the variety virtually nonexistent, not a fan of if you’re better tions isn’t much resort. all-inclusive the in Sharm hostel beyond the youth tle choice Bay. Again, el-Sheikh and a camp in Shark’s unfriendly, so is unashamedly budget Sharm Sharm el-Sheikh and the surrounding area el-Sheikh area and the surrounding Sharm often large. Better, more sensitive trips can be trips sensitive Better, more large. often and Nuweiba. from Dahab arranged Sleeping Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book SINAI side of the main road in Na’ama Bay, several side of several themainroadinNa’amaBay, ais St;rfromUS$95; ofBahrain King [email protected]; centre of theSanafir wasoneof Na’ama Bay, stomach! full of andit’snotgoodtoswimona sand, can take advantage of twonearby stretches don’teattoomuchspot. However, asguests grounds, includingtheobligatory Mexican pool. There are plentyof restaurants onthe the lushgroundsandsculpted infinity-edge are decorated innaturalhues,andsurround this isSharm after all!Well-appointed rooms beachMiddle Eastern holiday?Whynot, flavour inyourLooking foralittleLatin /max_home.htm; Hadaba;rfromUS$85; % tothebeach at service Shark’s Bay. from thebeach, there isafree hourlyshuttle the attractive you’re grounds.Although away colours andnaturaltiling,lookoutonto area. Spacious roomsare decorated inbold andachildren’sviews tothemountains play friendly hotel comescomplete withtwopools, kilometres eastof thecentralstrip,thisfamily- r fromUS$75; Sharm-Na’amaBayrd; 1290/1; www.tropicanahotels.com; Ras Um Sid. shore, guestshave accesstobeach spaceat abitbackfromthe it’sset pool. Although beside thepalm-fringed free-form swimming when sunningthemselves withdrinkinhand tobebotheredseem bythisonebit,especially nowned kitsch factor. guestsdon’t Ofcourse, Nights adorned withbrickornaments,this domes, gracefularches andwhitewashed walls .com; Hadaba;rfromUS$75; you’re lookingforachange of scene. beachto/from GrandOasis neartheairportif And, of there course, are dailyshuttles several not thatfarawayifyoudon’tmindwalking. itisn’tonthebeach, butyou’reNa’ama Bay, backfromtheroadbehind bourhood. Set inanexpensive base neigh- for anaffordable hotelstar isn’tabadchoice ifyou’re looking ais Sharm-Na’amaBayrd;rfromUS$55; .tropicanahotels.com; you want it. too long,thebeach there isright whenever 468 Sanafir Hotel SharmResort Mexicana Creative Amar Sina Sinai StarHotel Tropicana Garden Palms Hotel Tropicana Garden 02-257 7029;www.worldofcreative.com/hotels/maxicana OS • SamE-hih&N’m a &Na’amaBay COAST ••SharmEl-Sheikh –styled hotel upholdsSharm’s re- ) ) This fairlyplainbutwell-runthree- Located smackdab inthenerve ais

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Small, friendly, the town. Small, friendly, culinary hub of the food predominate, local-style restaurants Market in Sharm el-Sheikh functions as the el-Sheikh functions as the in Sharm Market time, the sight of international favourites, in- favourites, international time, the sight of is cluding Italian, Thai, Indian and Japanese, mouth watering. the to get likely tourists on all-inclusive packages never seem packages tourists on all-inclusive it’s certainly worth to stray from their resort, walls. Although hotel outside the venturing by no means cheap, are in Sharm restaurants high, particularly the the quality is extremely local seafood brought straight to your plate from the Red Sea. course,if you’ve of And, any significant amount of for been in Egypt Sharm has literally hundreds of restaurants restaurants of hundreds has literally Sharm Though most spanning the culinary globe. As the unashamed tourist capital of Sinai, Sinai, capital the unashamed tourist of As spend some time here, but it’s difficult but to put spend some time here, indulgence. over-the-top a price on Eating course, you’re going to need a small fortune to course, you’re to the ornate bronze fixtures and richly dyed and richly bronze fixtures to the ornate rugs, the Four Seasons is a model of Persian straight down to the last detail.perfection Of Strait of Tiran. From the towering whitewashed From the towering whitewashed Tiran. Strait of lattice workings geometric walls and intricate Arabesque-style pleasure palace built around palace Arabesque-style pleasure the and overlooking courtyards palm-ringed and sophistication, the Four Seasonsand sophistication, the is an % US$450; time. Although the entire affair Although is decidedly the entire time. it’s difficultun-Egyptian, to complain when luxury. of suckling the bosom you’re are decorated in the finest European furnish- in the finest European decorated are to some forgotten ings, transporting guests with Old World elegance from the moment with Old World elegance rooms and suites Expansive inside. you step ais distinct architecturally its glass of spotless the Ritz brims but decidedly modern exterior, 1919; www.ritzcarlton.com; Ras Um Sid; r from US$245; over the bay. True to its name, the Sofitel the Sofitel the bay. True to its name, over ex- resort sophisticated incredibly an offers enough to the guests privileged perience to staying here. be Eastern–style rooms are decked out in exotic in exotic out decked Eastern–style are rooms views boast stunning and furniture, wooden lonelyplanet.com SINAI on the sand. with afairnumber of revellers passing out andendsatdawn, going aroundmidnight down. Dancing getstake offonce thesungoes happyhoursearly evening toreally andstarts along thepromenade,intensifies duringthe duringtheday club scenes.Drinkingstarts hasoneofel-Sheikh Egypt’s liveliest barand number of relatively wealthytourists,Sharm With ayoungresident populationandalarge Entertainment made dishes. pasta menu featuring thin-crustpizzaandhome- door andoutdoordining,alarge Italian décor,in- ing thewater, Bedouin-influenced cosyalcoves ofbase thelighthouse, overlook- locationatthe boasts anexcellentseafront h spotoverlookingcomfortable the sea. outdoor terrace) are yours toenjoyatthis and pleasingaesthetics(teak décorandan curries anddelicately spicednoodledishes) dishes E£40-120; (below). bar fresh andvaried sushi bar–it’s also aloungy excellent Asian fusioncuisinealongsidea restaurants inSharm, the LittleBuddhaserves E£45-115; and red kidney beans). excellent of dishesincluding aselection andan tandoori many considertobeSharm’s bestIndianfood, in thecourtyardof Hotel haswhat theCamel dishes E£25-100; coffee anda creamy gelato. by intheafternoon andcooloff withanice good varietyof chicken dishes–stop andbeef food dishes, brick-oven roasted pizzas,anda sea- meals,includingItalian-style delectable a of this refined cuisine. thefullbounty good aplaceasanytosample open-air spotoutsidetheSanafirHotel isas gastronomicworld,andthislow-keyEastern istheundisputed kingofLebanese the Middle tion of mezze. rounditoutwithaselec- what youchoose, generous hasn’tbeen –regardlessthe sea of 470 Al-Fanar Sala Thai Little Buddha Tandoori La Rustichella Mashy Café Mashy ) 10am-10.30pm; This Sharm institution serves avarietyof ThisSharm institutionserves OS • SamE-hih&N’m a &Na’amaBay COAST ••SharmEl-Sheikh a dhal makhani

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366 1622, in Cairo 02-290 9017) % ( A few words of caution about the ferry – the ferry caution about of words A few East Delta Travel Company Superjet TO/FROM THE AIRPORT TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Airport is el-Sheikh International Sharm Na’ama Bay at Ras about 10km north of from E£20 charge Nasrany; taxis generally or to E£25 from the airport to Sharm Na’ama Bay. (E£100, nine hours). (E£100, buses to Cairo (E£60 to E£70, six to eight at 7am, 10am, 11am, noon, 1pm, hours) daily are 2.30pm, 4.30pm and 5.30pm. There at hours) buses E£35, five to Suez (E£30 to 7am, 9am and 10am; to Dahab (E£15 to Nuweiba (E£20 to and E£20, 1¼ hours) at 9am, 2.30pm and hours) E£25, three to E£30, 4½ hours) (E£25 5pm; and to Taba departs at at 9am. A bus to St Katherine’s bus to and a direct 7.30am (E£30, 3½ hours), via Hurghada Luxor (E£110, 12 to 15 hours) at 6pm. leaves Getting Around you’re in for a memorable trip. With that in for a memorable you’re a seatsaid, try to get by the window, and on the horizon – this eyes fixed your keep way to beat seasickness. Also note is a great rough, particularly that if the seas the ad- are as long as 1½-hour journey can take vertised three hours. BUS ) is along the p463 The bus station (Map Bay road behind the Mobil Sharm-Na’ama petrol station. Seats on the buses to Cairo should be reserved Buy tickets in advance. from the following bus companies at the bus station. buses to Cairosix hours) (E£60 to E£70, at noon, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm and 11pm, with the 3pm bus continuing on to Alexandria to use for the Sharm ferry ticket. Also note Also note ticket. ferry to use for the Sharm winter during cancelled often is ferry that the is – if the ferry windy conditions because of days, you can a few to be cancelled for likely to to get arrangements alternative then make service taxi. by bus or Sharm the Red Sea so rough, so much very can get that the staff hands out Dramamine on board (an antihistamine that can help with seasick- for more p536 Seeprior to departure. ness) never had the pleasure information. If you’ve people simultane- dozens of witnessing of contents, stomach ously emptying out their . They are . They are 366 1056; Sharm al-Maya; % 260 0190; Marriott Beach Resort, % El-Sheikh •• Sharm COAST & Na’ama Bay (Map p464 ; (Map p466 ; Hilton Fayrouz Village, Na’ama Village, ; Hilton Fayrouz p466 (Map

, though prices tend to fluctuate , though fluctuate to prices tend (Map p466 ; p466 (Map The hub of Sharm’s nightlife, the nightlife, Sharm’s of The hub (Map p466 ; Sanafir Hotel, King; Sanafir Hotel, of Bahrain St, p466 (Map

Egypt Air A cosy, pub-style bar where divers con- divers A cosy, pub-style bar where 9am-9pm) Pirates’ Bar The ferry to Hurghada departs from Sharm departs from Sharm to Hurghada The ferry If you book a package holiday in either holiday in either If you book a package Pacha ficials determines which currency you’ll need currency which ficials determines Egyptian pound and the whim of the ferry of- the ferry pound and the whim of Egyptian Saturday and at 3am on Wednesday (one Saturday and at 3am on Wednesday (one way E£250/US$40, round trip E£450/US$70, the dollar against the of The rate 1½ hours). el-Sheikh at 5pm on Monday, Thursday and el-Sheikh at 5pm on Monday, Thursday from the port west of Sharm al-Maya, and it’s al-Maya, Sharm from the port west of port at least one hour at the ferry best to arrive to departure prior also sold at the ferry office (Map p464 ) at the p464 office (Map also sold at the ferry runs. Boats leave port on days that the ferry Mena Tours inland side of Sharm-Na’ama Bay rd, Na’ama Bay) from Sharm el-Sheikh can be bought from from Sharm in town, including agencies various travel BOAT BOAT for the high-speed to Hurghada ferry Tickets flights to Sharm are often significantly cheaper significantly cheaper often are flights to Sharm to Cairo, and the city than a round-trip airfare is a quick and easy jumping-off point for the Nile Valley. Luxor and the Sinai Peninsula, traveller, it’s worth visiting a few travel agents agents travel it’s worth visiting a few traveller, – charter to Egypt booking your ticket before Sharm for you. Even if you’re an independent if you’re Even for you. Sharm the UK or Europe, it’s likely that your travel travel that your the UK or Europe, it’s likely to flight directly a charter will arrange agent E£1000 during the busy summer and winter E£1000 during the busy summer and winter holiday seasons. times possible to snag a ticket for as little as ticket times possible to snag a E£400, though can climb as high prices as h seasonwildly depending on the and avail- advance, it is some- ability. If you book in Daily flights to Cairo and Luxor are available Daily flights available Cairo to Luxor are and with AIR AIR Happy hour is from 5.30pm to 7.30pm. hour is from 5.30pm Happy Getting There & Away gregate for an early evening or bar meal. drink gregate what’s playing. ences of thousands under the stars – watch thousands – watch under the stars ences of around town to see advertising for Pacha’s on Fridays during the highon Fridays season (E£145), to audi- to play singers bringing big-name Pacha goes wild pretty much every night of the every night much of goes wild pretty Pacha also holds Echo week. Adli Mestakawi Owner Concerts in the desert outside Sharm Temple Na’ama Bay) Na’ama lonelyplanet.com Bay) SINAI el-Sheikh past the airport and Ras Nasrany. pasttheairportandRas el-Sheikh the Middle East’s largestthe Middle East’s of stands dunes of Wadi Kid,which are home tooneof Just inlandfromthe mangrove forest are the forbirdsand fish. habitat ing animportant shorelines, whilealsoprovid-help tostabilise tems water, filter and mostof fromsea thesalt grove intheworld.Mangrove stand rootsys- of WadiKid,andisthemostnortherlyman- est and designated camping areas. ing trails,clearlymarked snorkelling spots hik- you’llfindseveral Within theparkitself, 5pm) of mass tourism. Sinaiasitwasbefore thearrival place tosee Mohammed, Nabqvisited isagood thanRas itislessfrequentlyTiran andDahab.Because theStraitof between 600 sqkmof landandsea that lieswithinitsboundaries,Nabqstraddles ate onthe Gulf of Aqaba. Namedafter anoasis Sheikh isNabq, thelargest protector- coastal Thirty-five kilometres northof Sharm el- NABQ and womenshouldavoid it completely. shuttles to Na’ama Bay. of thehotels above UmSidhave theirown Ras Many andfromE£5withinNa’amaBay. Bay, centres, Hadaba and between andNa’ama charge aminimumof thetwo E£10between foreignersthough are often charged E£5.Taxis and Sharm Thegoingfare el-Sheikh. isE£2, ply thestretch centralNa’amaBay between regularly pick-upsandmicrobuses Toyota MICROBUS &TAXI mum three- to four-day rental. metre arrangements generally require amini- and upforaroomier4WD.Unlimited kilo- andUS$120 about US$80forabasicsaloon, p466; % rd, Na’amaBay) Avis Car-rental include agencies inNa’amaBay CAR fromE£25 Na’ama Bay per day. rented alongthepromenadein fromstands andcross-countrybicyclescanbe Standard BICYCLE 472 Nabq’s mainattractionisits There isa The usualwarningsabouthitching apply, , which isalongtheshoreline atthemouth 366 2299;BankSt,Hadaba) Mp p466; (Map located off theroadleadingfromSharm % OS • Nb COAST ••Nabq 360 0137; Hilton Fayrouz360 0137;Hilton Village) , justwestof Mall 7; % visitors’ centre 360 2400,0979;Sharm-Na’amaBay and (admission US$5;

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stream consumption, Dahabisaplacewhere of Sinaiisbeingpackaged and soldformain- whilethevastmajorityfamilies. However, boutique hotels andholidayingEuropean withupscalerestaurants,they nowcoexist hardcore backpackers stillremain, though and The bananapancakes, spliffs moonlight fusion of hippiemellownessandresort chic. humble origins,andnowboastsasmooth recent years Dahabhasexpandedbeyondits beaches backdrop.In andrugged mountain end –withitscheap ocean-sidecamps,golden lers on –andtrappingthemfordaysorweeks DahabhasalonghistoryofEast, luringtravel- Long hailedastheKoh Samuiof theMiddle % DAHAB are strictlyforbiddentoleave the tracks. water. Ifyoudrive, remember thatvehicles offer bothonthelandandin safaris, and resorts inSharm andDahab el-Sheikh have tojoinanorganised tour. Mosthotels of from cause sediment the mangroves. visibilitycanbepoorbe- easy access,although Mizena tribe. Offshore there are rich reefs with ate, fromthe aswelltwovillages of Bedouin intheprotector-Nubian ibexes canbeseen to cleanteeth). Gazelles,rockhyraxes and (arak twigswere byBedouin traditionallyused the beachfront area of Assalah, and thehard Egypt. True,apaved boardwalk nowlines one of themore authentic touristtownsin ance isn’talways easy,butDahabremains ist dollaranditsfishing traditions.The bal- the lure between compromise of thetour- its humbleroots,determined tofind a Dahabisstilltryingtomaintain el-Sheikh, of nearbyMt Sinai ( p492 ). aswelltotheloftyinterior deserts, heights fororganisingbase guidedexcursions intothe clave atitsheart,Dahabisalsothepreferred Park ( p460 en- ). Predominantly aBedouin Mohammad National class reefs innearbyRas ofyou withineasystrikingdistance theworld- memorable dive sites, andaboatcanbring most will bringyoutosomeof theRedSea’s cameltrek rideoreven king. Ashortwalk,jeep of Egypt’s divingandtrek- mostspectacular area’s coastline,Dahabalsoboastssome sandy than the exception. individual travellers are stilltherulerather Unlike itsair-brushed neighbour of Sharm To visit Nabq, you’ll need avehicleTo visitNabq, you’llneed orwill Meaning goldinArabic, areference tothe 069 lonelyplanet.com SINAI 473 9am- h ( (Blue Hole (Blue Hole 24hr) 10am-3pm & 8.30am-2.30pm) h h (just north of Shark Dahab City h Assalah Swiss Inn Golden Beach Resort Swiss Inn Golden

(Dahab City; 9am-10pm); (Dahab City; 9am-1pm) The Dahab9am-1pm) The City and Assalah h h (Masbat; per min E£7; The police patrol their drug-sniffing dogs It’s worth mentioning briefly that Dahab’s For an overview of the history of terrorism terrorism the history of For an overview of branches each have an ATM. branches each have Plaza) About 1.5km northeastPlaza) About of the Hilton Dahab Resort, and Mashraba. between the resort strip being caught with drugs in Egypt is stiffbeing caught with drugs in Egypt (to say the attitude that the least), most tourists have it’s not. hashish is legal – known to up and down the boardwalk, and are Please for smoking dope. heed bust travellers April 2006, suicide bombers killed 23 peopleApril 2006, suicide bombers dozens. Although the government and injured on the seeds down Islamic fun- has cracked of to be seendamentalism since then, it remains beenwhether or not their efforts effective. have However, it is important to emphasise that the to Dahab and visitors of majority overwhelming time immensely, Sinai enjoy their the greater problem. of and never experience any sort . p457 in Sinai, see atmos- hippie roots and backpacker-friendly drug use. go hand in hand with You phere hashish (and possibly harder will be offered stuff) you go, and you will see wherever people around you openly using drugs. Although it should go without saying that the penalty for Main post office TELEPHONE centrale and card- In addition to the telephone call centres phones, you will find numerous you can where in Assalah along the beachfront pounds a minute. for a few dial internationally sold at the Ghazala Supermarket are Phonecards small shops. and at most in Masbat Call centre 3-9pm Fri) 6-9pm Sat-Thu, centrale Telephone Dangers & Annoyances relaxed the most Although of Dahab is one is be advised that there destinations in Egypt, attack. In terrorist for a future the potential Commercial International Bank ATM InternationalCommercial Bank ATM of EgyptNational Bank Sun-Thu); 2.30pm & 6-8pm (Resort Strip; POST post office, well as the main post boxes As and also outside Ghazala Supermarket are Restaurant, next to Red Sea Terrace Relax in Masbat. both Club Restaurant;

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Masbat (Sharia Al-Mashraba, just 24hr) (per hr E£5); h 364 0208; Dahab City) 012 220 8484) Local doctor recom- Mashraba 364 0188; Dahab City) •• Dahab COAST (Sharia Al-Mashraba, Mashraba; % % ( ( % (Sharia Al-Mashraba, Mashraba; per hr (

364 0213/5; Masbat) Near Ghazala 24hr)

% ( h 10am-midnight); 9am-2pm & 6-9pm Sat-Thu, 9-11am & 6-9pm Fri) 9am-2pm & 6-9pm Sat-Thu, Information Information h (100m south of police station on beachside promenade; Resort; north of Nesima Supermarket. mended by most hotels; office at the Hilton Dahab Resort. mended by most hotels; office at the Hilton Dahab E£4; h Divers Home. Near Inmo Banque du Caire MONEY MONEY Dr Sherif Salah MEDICAL SERVICES MEDICAL SERVICES Dahab Hospital Felopater InternetFelopater Cafe Download.Net INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS Tourist police EMERGENCY EMERGENCY Police is a small pedestrian bridge, which makes makes which is a small pedestrian bridge, landmark and is a good place a convenient find taxis. to the freshwater springs that apparently exist exist springs that apparently the freshwater Masbat of In the centre around the beach. rently off limits as an excavation site), is the is the site), off limits as an excavation rently named after staid Mashraba, slightly more trees, as well as a busy little bazaar. To the To the as well as a busy little bazaar. trees, south, starting roughly(cur- at the ruins and laid-back restaurants among the palm among the palm restaurants and laid-back the major tourist stretch. Assalah is further is further Assalah tourist stretch. the major Masbat and Mashraba. divided into Masbat and Assalah starts end of at the southern ‘camps’, hotels of a stretch is made up of newer area of Dahab City, with a smattering Dahab City, with a smattering of newer area the bus station, post and hotels, resort of bank; and Assalah, and a phone offices, and is runs north along the beach which There are two parts to Dahab: the small and the small and two parts to Dahab: are There cancel the rest of your itinerary. your of cancel the rest Orientation ocean-side dinners and countless and countless dinners ocean-side to going to want probably sessions, you’re is in your sights, be forewarned – after a few a few after – is in your sights, be forewarned crystal-clear diving, desertdays of trekking, the unrelenting heat of the desert. the If Dahab heat of the unrelenting sell for pricey dinners by pushy restaurateurs restaurateurs by pushy sell pricey dinners for nerves. your test can quickly However, been, what it has always Dahab remains from ocean-side refuge namely a tranquil lonelyplanet.com SINAI and diving are the mostpopularactivities in Other than justloungingaround,snorkelling SNORKELLING & DIVING Activities side of an Egyptian prison. discreetly. thein- Youreally don’t wanttosee our advice–ifyou’re goingtoindulge, do it 474 DAHAB 10 11 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Commercial InternationalBank Desert Divers...... Accor CoraliaClubDahab...... (see20) Felopater InternetCafé...... Felopater InternetCafé...... Dr SherifSalah...... (see25) Fish &Friends...... Fantasea DiveCentre...... Western Union...... (see22) Tourist Police...... Telephone Centrale...... Police...... National BankofEgypt(ATM)..... National BankofEgypt(ATM)..... National BankofEgypt...... (see33) A4 Main PostOffice...... Download.Net...... (see 28) Dahab Hospital...... Call Centre...... (see22) Banque duCaire...... Eel Garden...... Blue BeachClub...... ATM...... OS • Dhb COAST ••Dahab 6 Enlargement 200m 0.1miles 0 0 23 8 41 Dahab City To Sharmel-Sheikh(85km); 40 37 Monastery (125km) 26 33 Nuweiba (87km); 1 29 32 St Katherine’s 42 24 27 25 36 3 Mosque 11 10 16 15 14 13 12 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 D1 D2 D1 A4 A4 D2 A4 D2 D2 D2 A3 C3 A5 D2 D2 Telecommunications 20 Swiss InnGoldenBeachResort.. Nesima Resort...... Swiss InnGoldenBeachResort..(see33) SLEEPING Sunsplash DiveCentre...... (see32) Sphinx Hotel...... Seven HeavenHotel...... Penguin Village...... Inmo Hotel...... Hilton DahabResort...... Christina Residence...... (see24) Bishibishi VillageGardenCamp.. Bamboo HouseHotel...... Alaska Camp...... Accor CoraliaClubDahab...... Ruins...... Penguin Divers...... (see29) Nesima DiveCentre...... (see28) Lighthouse Reef...... Hilton DahabResort...... (see25) Red SeaRelax...... Jasmine Pension...... Christina BeachPalace...... Sunsplash DiveCentre...... Inmo DiversHome...... (see26) 46 Tower Lagoon Assalah; andthepopular just before thelagoon; are thereefs the off als andimpressive fishlife. Alsoworthwhile at thenorthernendof Mashraba cor- hastable with litter, butifyoucanignore this,thereef Dahab. Thereefs Assalah off are often strewn tered snorkelling site atthenortherntipof 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 A4 A5 D2 D2 A5 D3 A5 A5 A4 A5 A5 D2 D2 B4 D3 D2 D2 To BedouinVillage (20m); The Canyon&BlueHole 2 Dive Sites(6km) ahaia...... A5 A5 Lakhbatita...... Kushari House...... TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING Max CarRental...... (see25) East DeltaBusCoStation...... Tota DanceBar...... Crazy House...... Tota Restaurant...... (see45) Penguin Restaurant...... (see29) Nirvana IndianRestaurant...... King Chicken...... Jay's Restaurant...... Ghazala Supermarket...... Gado Restaurant...... Carm Inn...... Shipwreck Bar...... (see28) Funny Mummy...... Al-Hussein...... S haria Mashraba Al-M ash southern endof Mashraba, rab a See Enlargement 34 Lighthouse Reef 19 22 21 400m 0.2miles 0 0 38 30 Eel Garden Eel Masbat 28 16 18 5 Assalah 9 7 31 lonelyplanet.com 44 35 45 13 4 Gulf ofAqaba 39 43 Dahab , justnorth Bay 15 , ashel- 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 12 B3 D2 D2 D2 A5 D2 D2 A5 A5 D2 D2 17 14 SINAI 475 364 0310; www 364 0310; www 364 1091; www www 364 1091; % % (

Swiss Inn Golden Beach Swiss Inn Golden Beach (MATE; (MATE;

, between St Katherine , between St Katherine and is an environmental education is an environmental education 364 0054; www.swissinn.net/dahab; Resort Hilton Dahab Resort % Coloured Canyon (

have good windsurfing centres. The The good windsurfing centres. have Windsurfing is another popular pastime, Windsurfing is another popular pastime, it- in Assalah to speak of no beach There’s One of the most popular jeep the most popular safaris is a One of the Environment Dahabthe Environment self the rocky coastline leads straight – instead golden sands For the after out onto the reef. Dahab was named, you’ll needwhich to head the resorts where down to the lagoon area are clustered. hills of Saudi Arabia in the distance Saudi Arabia seem hills of an excellent destination, trust for to make us – you don’t want to try to cross. At least man- we know of backpacker one Japanese Saudi soil, only to be rounded to touch aged by some rather unhappy up and arrested border guards. and the .hilton.com; Resort Strip) Resort Strip) winds the bay boasts the steadiest of centre in Dahab, though strong gusts occasionally sweep across the northern end. Kite-surfing is also starting in Dahab, although off to take it can where winds limit the areas offshore be done. yon has become overtouristed in recent years, years, in recent yon has become overtouristed also begun offering have and many operators the rock formations where trips to other sites, and the sense wilder- of equally impressive are centres dive the hotels, intact. All of more ness jeep safaris, offer though agencies and travel depending on the prices vary considerably your destination and the size of year, time of around your party – don’t be afraid to shop hard. bargain and SPORTS WATER at kayaks and jet skis can be rented Pedalos, and at the holiday Masbat the northern end of on the lagoon. Although golden the villages .mate-dahab.com) with Bedouin treks arrange group that helps guides. Contact via tel- both organisations tours in order to arrange ephone or email around Sinai. trip to its name canyon derives The and Nuweiba. bright,multicoloured of from the layers on its steep, paintings stones that resemble beautiful. narrow walls, and is magnificently from the wind, is sheltered the canyon As with there you aren’t the silence – assuming its most – is one of other visitors crowds of the can- Unfortunately, features. impressive

Canyon Man & 364 0702; www.centre4sinai 364 0702; www.centre4sinai % (

•• Dahab COAST dive sites. Despite their intimi- Despite sites. dive is one organisation that tries to pro- is one organisation Blue Hole For an overview of diving in the Red Sea,For an overview of About 6km further north are the the 6km further north are About Centre for Sinai You can hire snorkelling gear from all from all gear snorkelling You can hire mote knowledge of the local culture. the local culture. of knowledge mote .com.eg) evening trip into the mountains with dinner evening trip into the mountains with dinner at a Bedouin E£300 and from about camp, per day for a safari including all per person and water. food you return to the village. Itineraries – and as a – and as a Itineraries to the village. you return custom designed, generally prices – are result for an but expect to pay from E£70 per person Register with the police before beginning the beginning the with the police before Register until safari, and don’t pay the camel driver good place to look is the waterfront in the vil- good place to look is the waterfront to congregate. tend camel drivers where lage, the tourist industry, which tends to be domi- tends the tourist industry, which A Nile Valley. by migrants from the nated that works with the Bedouin. Unfortunately, been excluded from local communities have ( p479 ). When choosing who to go with, try who to go with, try ). When choosing p479 ( to find a Bedouin – or at least an operator CAMEL & JEEP SAFARIS & JEEP SAFARIS CAMEL the best places in Sinai to Dahab is one of camel safaris into the dramatic arrange mountains lining the coast, especially the Gallum Protectorate spectacular Ras Abu including recommended operators and dive and dive operators including recommended sites, see p439 . the drinking and drugging if you’re going to the drinking and drugging if you’re open seas. be in in Dahab – so keep your wits about you. And, you. And, your wits about in Dahab – so keep although go without saying, this should off lay in mind that some of the reefs have unex- have the reefs in mind that some of occurred – drownings have currents pected the dive centres and many other places in other places in and many centres the dive Keep E£25 to E£40 per day. for about Masbat as well as overnights to Ras Mohammad to Ras Mohammad as well as overnights ). p461 ( Park National to the nearby Ras Abu Gallum and Nabq Gallum and Nabq respectively), to the nearby Ras Abu p472 and p479 ( Protectorates around the Blue Hole. Many dive centres centres dive Many around the Blue Hole. safaris and dive snorkelling also organise hidden ‘extras’, such as overpriced drinks drinks as overpriced hidden ‘extras’, such the cafés at some of fees and gear-minding half-day tours to both sites, but watch for half-day for but watch sites, to both tours divers, the tops of the reefs are teeming with teeming with are the reefs tops of the divers, destina- them fine snorkelling making life, the seations when It’s easy to find is calm. and zones for careless as danger dating reputation of Assalah, where a colony of eels lives on the eels lives colony of a where Assalah, of sea bed. sandy lonelyplanet.com SINAI 0411; [email protected]; Assalah) 0411; [email protected]; Accor CoraliaClubDahab in thepalm-fringed restaurant, complete with allguestsultimatelyyou choose, congregate wooden balconies. Regardlessof which room cooled concrete boxes toair-con roomswith rooms tosuitallbudgets –fromno-frills fan- ing backpacker favourite offers avarietyof rE£20-80; divers.com; Mashraba; o BUDGET available for guests. yourhotelthrough asdiscountsare readily to arrange anyactivities,it’sbesttoinquire only existinnameEgypt. Ifyou’re looking andfixed prices ably duringthelowseason, value –mostplacesdroptheirpricesconsider- mind thatpricesare nottobetaken atface ments are beingknocked down.Alsokeep in going upallthetime,whileolderestablish- ofsampling whatisavailable –newplacesare City. Dahab sorts intown,particularlyonthebeach near a numberof swishboutique hotels and re- more surroundings,there comfortable are you wanttoenjoytheDahabvibeinslightly commodation inAssalah. And,of course, if range hotels scattered amongthebudget ac- the constructionof agoodnumberof mid- the priceof adecentmeal back home. there are someexcellentroomstobehadfor thebarinDahab,and competition hasraised grubby tented campsonthebeach. Increased speaking,longgoneareGenerally thedaysof shaded bypalmgroves.cushioned seating floor toattractive backpacker palaceswith or reed hutswithamattress onthe tossed stone,cementconsiderably, fromSpartan forthecampsofstraight Assalah, which vary commodation. Mostbudget travellers head Dahab hasanincredibly diverse range of ac- For asmallvillage perched onthetipof Sinai, Sleeping excursions. horse-riding Strip) tel.com; Resort ask aroundthecamps. at aboutE£20toE£40perhour. Youcanalso up anddownwithhorses forhire. start Rates in Mashraba whowalk foroneof theBedouin If you wanttogoriding,justwaitonthebeach HORSE RIDING 476 Be advised thatthefollowinglistisasmall advised Be Dahab’s upwardpush hasalsoresulted in OS • Dhb COAST ••Dahab Penguin Village canalsoarrange organised

( ( % % Blue BeachClub ai 364 1047;www.penguin 364 0301; www.accorho 364 0301;www.accorho ) This endur- andthe (

% 364 place to meet otherbackpackers,place tomeet particularly the property.And,of course, thisisagreat therethe sea, isanappealing airof privacyto waterfront. you’re Although notdirectly on onthestreet paralleltothe back fromthesea Bishbishi campthatisset isalong-standing southern endof Mashraba, Sunsplashoffers a diveGerman-run centre onitsownatthe set r£40-120; -divers.com; Mashraba; atthestarry while staring Sinai sky. rant isagoodchoice forsippingacoldStella suited forquietreflection. Theon-site restau- and comecomplete withbalconiesperfectly antly decorated roomsoverlook thebeach, spot.Ninepleas- an intimate butaffordable sion isagoodchoice fortravellers lookingfor southern endof Mashraba, thislow-key pen- rE£35-120; .com; Mashraba; dive schedule in no time. Backpackers, which canhelpyousortoutyour of isalsothebase SinaiDiversAlaska Camp con suites are yours forabitmore anight. hutstoair-of roomsrangingfromBedouin veniences asaroof and fourwalls,avariety Ofcourse, ifyou’renight. afanof such con- stringing upahammockformere E£15a True backpackers cansave afew poundsby cheapest accommodationoptionsintown. hammockE£15,rE£30-90; Masbat; price. backpacker-friendly can arrange whatever takes yourfancyata day orapilgrimage upSinai,thehelpfulstaff andsurf.Whetheryoudesiresea adive holi- pillowlounges overlookingBedouin-style the crowds will come. it’shardto keep Of course, modern amenities andoceanviews,the a simpleformula: offer sparklingrooms with popular hotels inDahab, the Sphinxfollows rE£85-165; Mashraba; surrounding a fire pit. lounge areawhile sittingintheBedouin-style 150; rE£50- Mashraba; Al-Mashraba, www.bishbishi.com; Sharia area. lounge favourites, aswelltheobligatorybeachside rant thatoffers ahealthymixof Deutschland tion isenjoyedbyall.There’s agoodrestau- offer here, thequietbeachfront though loca- able rooms.Divingisthemainattractionon variety of bungalowsandsimplebutcomfort- Sunsplash Dive Centre Sunsplash Dive Camp Alaska Bishbishi Village Garden Camp Garden Bishbishi Village Jasmine Pension Sphinx Hotel

ai ) Anotherclassicbackpacker spot,

( ( % % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( % ai 364 1004; www.dahabescape.com; 364 1004;www.dahabescape.com; 548 8708; www.sphinxdahab.com; 548 8708;www.sphinxdahab.com; 364 0852; www.jasminepension 364 0852;www.jasminepension (

ai % ) Oneof the most 364 0932;www.sunsplash ai ai ) Located atthe

( ) Afriendly Oneof the ) % 364 0727; SINAI ) 477 One of One of ) ais 364 0054; www ) The five-star The five-star %

( ) Overlooking the 364 0301; www.accorho ais 364 0310; www.hilton.com; %

( ais % (

364 0320; www.nesima-resort.com; ais %

( Swiss Inn Golden Beach Resort Hilton Dahab Resort Accor Coralia Club Dahab Nesima Resort Resort Strip; r from US$115; Though in the Dahab area. the swankiest hotel its flashier of subdued than some it’s more cousins around the world, the whitewashed, .swissinn.net/dahab; Resort Strip; r from US$85; has well- resort four-star This family-friendly rooms and a pleasantlyappointed unpreten- days can be spent Entire tious ambience. pool lounging around the flower-fringed golden sand, though of and stunning stretch and windsurf- dive always the on-site there’s The Swiss active. if you want to get ing centre recommendable Inn is home to a number of including a pleasant poolside café restaurants, bistro. European-inspired and a town. With pleasing stone and wood over- town. With pleasing stone rooms at Nesima tones and soaring domes, for all who stay feelings induce calm, relaxed is its features the most attractive of One here. over- pool, which infinity-edge palm-fringed boardwalk. the and looks the beach TOP END offer occasionally following hotels the All of advance via if you book in rates discounted the internet. tel.com; Resort Strip; r from US$75; views. varying sizes, shapes and 140 rooms of Set sandy the Club Dahab beach, on 650m of you in town where hotels the few is one of to your heart’s can lie out on a sandy beach the hotel moniker, True to its resort content. is brimming with amenities, including a dive and a whole slew pool complex, spa, centre, and restaurants. bars of These small Swiss-run hotels offer a degree a degree offer These hotels small Swiss-run that is matched sophistication European of hotels in Dahab. Both hotels other by few with just a designed rooms – classically offer – that accents Arabic architectural of touch bath- amenities and luxurious boast modern the on your preference, rooms. Depending while is on the beach, Christina Beach Palace just inland. Residence is the Christina Mashraba; r US$55-105; is a this modest resort in Mashraba, beach living compromise for those want resort who from the isolated as if you’re without feeling Hilton is the big boy on the block and easily the most affordable in Dahab, top-end hotels offers the Accor Coralia chain of this branch ) of ) Centrally sheesha, ais This pleasant This pleasant ai ) •• Dahab COAST Located near the Located ) 364 0263; bamboohouseho 364 0080; www.7heavenhotel 364 0080; www.7heavenhotel ai % 364 1309; www.red-sea-relax ( With colourful rooms, ai ) % ( % ( 364 0370; www.inmodivers.de; Mashraba;364 0370; www.inmodivers.de; % ( ais Beach Palace 364 0390, Residence 364 0406; www Beach Palace Bamboo House Hotel Christina & Christina Beach Palace Residence Inmo Hotel Red Sea Relax % .christinahotels.com; Mashraba; r US$50-75; ( Bedouin for some makes community, which desert trips. memorable custom-tailored recommended dive shop. Guests can also take can also take Guests shop. dive recommended the of knowledge the owners’ of advantage With a presence in Dahab dating back over 20 in Dahab dating back over With a presence Inmo has a well-established reputation years, in town, especially when it comes to its highly to people on diving packages from Europe. from Europe. to people on diving packages r US$25-65; this furniture, domed ceilings and attractive mainly caters hotel well-run, family-friendly the on-site centre. on-site the a cold beer and a game of pool. Or escape the a cold beer and a game of through by booking a dive altogether hotel colours. Easecolours. your mind with a fruit smoothie your body with or relax terrace, on the rooftop suite rooms decked out in soft blues to vibrant out in soft rooms decked suite awash in bright, suites tropical ocean-facing .com; Masbat; r US$25-45; Although it’s lacking the community feeling it’s a good spot if you found at other hotels, own room. want to unwind in your tively lighten up when the sun is shining, and lighten up when the sun is shining, tively needless on the bamboo. to say, heavy are, themed hotel is styled in cool, crisp lines and themed hotel rooms posi- The largish colours. pastel soft, [email protected]; Masbat; r US$25-40; this Asian- Masbat, in near the bridge located if you’re looking for a bit of privacy with- privacy of looking for a bit if you’re ‘Divers the bank. The on-site out breaking can help you get centre Down Under’ dive arrival. of wet within hours rooms. Although not as upscale as other rooms. Although not as upscale as other options, it’s a good place to be midrange family-run hotel consists of bright and airy bright and airy of consists family-run hotel modern and tiled bath- rooms with private Seven Heaven Hotel .com; Masbat; r US$25-35; MIDRANGE MIDRANGE good reviews, as doesgood reviews, but profes- the small centre. massage sional Funny Mummy ( p478 ), which is the per- is the which ), p478 ( Funny Mummy ( for a sundown smoke spot fect gets also centre dive course!). on-site The people away when you’re attached to one attached to one you’re away when people namely the around, best restaurants the of Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotel your stay Book bridge in Masbat, this intimate hotel offers a offers hotel this intimate in Masbat, bridge rooms ranging from subdued en- variety of SINAI of Assalah also serves decent Italian cuisine, decent Italian of Assalah alsoserves boat-shapedmissable bar( right ) intheheart welcome change fromthe usual offerings. coconut riceand curried vegetables make a menu changes anddishes such weekly, as Western fare atvery reasonable prices–the amixture of Egyptian and institution serving waterfront atone-third the price. offers cuisine you’llfindalongthe thesame without payingtouristprices,this local spot Dahab’slegendarywant tosample seafood penny-pinching backpackers in the know. be yours atthislocalfavourite, which lures in a chicken withriceandallthetrimmingscan worth pound. every Egyptian fare atGadoisdamngood,and prices, butwedoknowthatthetraditional generous portionsof heartycuisineatthese such We don’tknowhowit’spossibletoserve reminiscent of mum’s leftovers. kushari, thatwhollyuniqueEgyptian creation back streets where youcanget alarge bowlof For thecheapest mealintown,headtothe Masbat. of near themainjunctionatsouthernend ing the permarkets dotted aroundAssalah, includ- following your nose. it’s nottoohardtofindagoodspotbysimply any specificplacestoeatintheAssalah area, wehaven’tmagic onyou.Although listed for chilling outandlettingDahabworksits requisite apple the dishes. And,of allplacesserve course, of meatandvegetarianselection pizza,pasta, is onalmostallmenus,together withagood sparkling waters of theGulfof Aqaba. Seafood relax oncushions whilegazingoutover the areasstyle beachfront seating where youcan themajoritytaurants, of which are Bedouin- The waterfront inAssalah islined withres- Eating centre. dive professionalwater sports,includingahighly a playarea forchildren andafullrange of On offer are twopools,animmaculate beach, domed two-storey villasare stillaclassact. 478 Jay’s Restaurant Al-Hussein Chicken King House Kushari Tota Restaurant Restaurant Gado thereFor self-caterers, are numeroussu- OS • Dhb COAST ••Dahab Ghazala Supermarket Ghazala Supermarket

(Sharia Al-Mashraba; mealsE£15-30) Al-Mashraba; (Sharia (Sharia Al-Mashraba; mealsE£10-15) Al-Mashraba; (Sharia

sheesha

(Sharia Al-Mashraba; mealsE£3-5) Al-Mashraba; (Sharia (Masbat; dishesE£25-60) (Masbat; (Masbat; dishesE£25-40) (Masbat;

(Sharia Al-Mashraba; mealsE£5-15) Al-Mashraba; (Sharia andminttea, perfect (Masbat;

h ADahab Thisun- 8am-2am) Ifyou Half Half ,

the mostpopularrestaurants ontheboard- daily happy-hour specials. which attractsasophisticated crowdwithits lar rooftop barwithgreat viewsover thesea, life in Dahab,thisnauticallythemeddrink- and influences. Continental drawing onEgyptian, Asian MiddleEastern, gourmetfood Egyptian furniture, andserves ern endof Mashraba isdecorated withold centric beachfront atthesouth- establishment dishesin pasta Italian the evening. fry-ups inthemorningtoThaicurriesand ranging frombananapancakes andEnglish aneclecticmenu this backpacker hotel serves traveller favourite, theocean-siderestaurant at delicacies. Egyptian and Asian dishesalongsidetraditional spot offers allof yourfavourite Western walk, thispalm-fringed andpillow-decked ings withahintof the South Pacific. inmellowsurround- Indonesian dishesserved with avariedmenuof Western, Indianand place isafavourite of localdive instructors, and rice pilaffs flaky naan. pecially ifyou’re afanof spicycurries,fluffy vegetariansplease andcarnivores alike, es- dishes E£25-65) as arange of othermeals and desserts. including large dishes,aswell pizzasandpasta is a good place to watch the sunset whilesip- is agood placetowatch thesunset –thetopdeck on FridayandSaturday nights Thursday, andturns intoanimpromptudisco ing spothasfree movies fromSundayto –whatmoretable do you need? cheap andthere’s beer, abilliard even serves two-storey woodenbuilding,theCrazyHouse few cold Stellas. Dahab’s waterfront restaurants andnursing a lers are content withsprawlingoutinanyof exploration,mosttravel-diving anddesert phere after Ofcourse, alongdayof isright. some of which turnintodiscosiftheatmos- but there of isagoodselection lively bars, and,Dahabisfairlyquietatnight, el-Sheikh In comparisonwithHurghada andSharm Entertainment Tota DanceBar Lakhbatita Penguin Restaurant Inn Carm IndianRestaurant Nirvana Crazy House Funny Mummy Shipwreck Bar Shipwreck (Masbat; dishesE£25-65) (Masbat; Dahab’sbestIndianfoodwill

(Mashraba; dishesE£30-100) (Mashraba;

(Masbat)

(Nesima Resort, Mashraba) Mashraba) (Nesima Resort,

(Mashraba; dishesE£35-85) (Mashraba; (Masbat) (Masbat)

(Mashraba; dishesE£35-85) (Mashraba; Housed inahistoric Housed The centre of night-

( % Thiswaterfront lonelyplanet.com 364 1261; Masbat; 364 1261;Masbat; Thisec- A popu- Oneof A SINAI 479 . Otherwise, , a water source at the, a water Wadi Rasasah , a now-deserted Bedouin Bir Sugheir Bir el-Oghda 069 As in nearby Nabq, Bedouin in nearby Nabq, the Mizena As of Yet the lack of crowds gives Nuweiba its own crowds gives the lack of Yet Dive centres and travel agencies in Nuweiba in Nuweiba agencies and travel centres Dive the coast, or to catch the Aqaba-bound ferry en ferry the Aqaba-bound the coast, or to catch in Jordan. to Petra route stop a reasonable appeal, and the town makes working your way up or down the if you’re coast. Nuweiba is also a good place to organise reached by hiking in from north of the Blue north of by hiking in from reached near Dahab. Hole NUWEIBA % by fine, sandy beaches edged Turquoise waters rugged and rimmed on both sides by barren, the most Nuweiba one of give mountain chains towns. settings among Sinai’s resort attractive about 15km, however, randomly over Stretched and a cohesive Nuweiba lacks a defined centre ambience, and functions primarily as a port a re- As retreat. town rather than a travellers’ to attract thesult, Nuweiba has never managed nearby Dahab or the massive cult following of el-Sheikh. Indeed, most Sharm development of pass through Nuweiba either on their travellers further up way to the scenic camps and resorts tectorate). There is a designated camping area area camping is a designated There tectorate). and several and you can hire walking trails, Bedouin camels through guides and ranger the house of at the edge and village, the protectorate. of edge to camel and jeep excursions and Dahab offer a diving safari. as part of Gallum, often Abu con- ) is also a good p481 ( Travel Abanoub driving, tact If you are for arranging a visit. should stick to the that all vehicles remember tracks. The entry track off the main highway can also be The protectorate is unsignposted. mountains, valleys, sand narrow and fine dunes several with beaches diving and excellent gravel as the area Scientists describe sites. snorkelling Mediterranean in which a ‘floristic frontier’, climate. influenced by a tropical conditions are (in- with its 165 plant species This, together else in Sinai) found nowhere are cluding 44 that it gives and reptiles, mammals of and wealth environmental it importance and makes great visit. to a fascinating place confines, within the protectorate tribe live done for centuries as they have fishing here by the pro- (although regulated this is now there are no facilities and no visitors’ centre. centre. visitors’ no facilities and no are there the protectorate Popular destinations within include

East Delta Travel has buses to Sharm 364 0310; [email protected]) % (

•• Ras COAST Abu Gallum Protectorate

364 1808; Dahab City)

% (

Max Car Rental

RAS ABU GALLUM PROTECTORATE RAS ABU GALLUM PROTECTORATE tween Dahab and Nuweiba, mixing coastal The starkly beautiful Ras Abu Gallum Pro- The starkly Ras beautiful Abu coastline be- sq km of 400 covers tectorate station and goes up to Assalah. Departing Departing station and goes up to Assalah. on taxis to you’ll need to rely from Assalah, to E£10). to the bus station (E£5 get a minibus usually meets incoming buses at the East Company’s Dahab City Delta Travel doing the entire stretch between Assalah and between Assalah stretch doing the entire taxis, Dahab City. In addition to a handful of around the resort strip. The usual fare is E£1 strip. The usual fare around the resort for around town, and E£3 if you find one Pick-ups and minibuses go up and down the and, less frequently, in Assalah main street Getting Around Getting Around about E£30 to St Katherine, Nuweiba or Nuweiba or about E£30 to St Katherine, Sharm el-Sheikh. market, there’s usually not much room for usually not much there’s market, these (multiply rates negotiation. Per-person taxi) average an entire by seven to charter Service expensive more generally taxis are a captive are than buses, and as travellers SERVICE TAXI SERVICE TAXI 15 to 18 hours) departing at 4pm, which, while at 4pm, which, departing 15 to 18 hours) option than and less expensive long, is a faster bus of on a combination going via Hurghada and camps can arrange Most hotels and ferry. to the for you, plus transport your bus tickets E£15 extra. bus station,E£10 to for about E£450, 6½ hours) depart at 8am and 4pm. depart E£450, 6½ hours) bus to Luxor (E£120, is also a daily direct There 2½ hours). Buses to Cairo heading 2½ hours). (E£67 to at 8.30am, 12.30pm, depart E£80, nine hours) 2.30pm and 7.30pm. Buses for Suez (E£45 to continuing on to Taba (E£20, two hours). There (E£20, two hours). continuing on to Taba (E£20 to E£25,is a 9.30am bus to St Katherine to Nuweiba (E£10 to E£15, one hour) leave at one hour) leave to Nuweiba (E£10 to E£15, the 10.30am bus8.30am and 10.30am, with ing at 8am, 8.30am, 10am, 11.30am, 12.30pm,ing at 8am, 8.30am, 10am, and 10pm. Buses2.30pm, 4pm, 5.30pm, 8.30pm Company depart- el-SheikhE£20, 1½ hours) (E£15 to With its new station well south- in Dahab City, the action, of the centre west of BUS BUS ping a cold beer,ping a 5pm to during the especially happy hour. 7pm & Away Getting There lonelyplanet.com has a branch at the Hilton Dahab Resort. at the Hilton Dahab has a branch SINAI enough placetospend a enough few days. friendly campsmake Nuweibaapleasant a numberof low-key resorts andbackpacker- it’s perhaps notatouristdestinationin itself, reefs are comparatively uncrowded.Although modest divingscenemeansthatits offshore intotheinterior, andcamelsafaris andits jeep 480 ask questions. owned businesses,alwaysbuylocally, stayinformedofprevalent issuesandnever beafraidto tinies ofcommunities. As frequent an informedtraveller, Bedouin- you,too,candoyourpart: environmentisprotected. desert the greater communitysustainedeconomicindependence,andto ensure thattheirtraditional ever been.This isevidentintheirrecent formationofcooperatives whoseaimsare togrant bad –onthecontrary,Bedouinare arguably more organised andunifiedthantheyhave however, Sinai.Fortunately, thenewsisn’tall inNorthern ofBedouins,particularly convictions viduals were bombings,thegovernment involved inthe2006Dahab hasrelentlessly pursued perceived involvement interrorist cellsthroughouttheSinai.Althougha few misguidedindi- marginalised intheirownland. dinners,theBedouinhave become increasingly camelridesanddesert caricature ofpackaged ing groundspolluted byuncontrolleddevelopment and theirnomadicpastoften turnedintoa be exploited. Withtheircoastallandholdingssoldoutfromunderthem bythestate, theirfish- given shriftbyNileValley short dwellers,many ofwhomtreat thepeninsulaasagoldmineto and theirstrongtraditions,respect fortheirenvironment andproudnomadicpastare often of theirtiestotribesinneighbouringcountries,especiallyIsrael&thePalestinian Territories, left behindintheracetobuildupcoast.They are sometimesviewedwithdistrustbecause their longhistoryandimmenseknowledgeofthepeninsula,Sinai’soriginal inhabitantsare often elaborately embroidered, withred signifyingthattheyare married,andblueunmarried.Despite of woven goathair,sometimesmixed withsheepwool.Women’sblackveils androbesare often paramount. Tea inrounds ofthree, istraditionallytaken andtraditionaldwellingsare tents made –are inthedesert (leaders),andloyaltyhospitality–essentialforsurviving their sheikhs asoul’.Local life atree killing centres islike in theBedouinadage,‘killing aroundclansand precious resources. Water useiscloselyregulated andvegetation carefully asrevealed conserved, sophisticated lawsandtraditionsgovern understandingoftheirenvironment.Strict theuseof in the6thcentury. descendants ofMacedonianssentbytheEmperorJustiniantobuildandprotect themonastery Nuweiba. are MembersofthetinyJabaliyyatribe,centred inthemountainsaroundStKatherine, southern tribeistheMizena, whoare and concentrated alongthecoastbetweenSharmel-Sheikh Aleiqat andtheSuwalha,whoarrived soonafter theMuslimconquestofEgypt. The largest of Al-Tor’, thesesouthernBedouin,thefirsttosettleinSinaiwere theprovincial capital.Of the area southeastofSuez,andoriginally fromtheHejazinSaudiArabia. who, togetherwiththeTarabin, tracetheirrootstoPalestine; and theHaweitat,centred inan inthecentre ofthepeninsulahave andsouthernSinai;theTyaha territory inbothnorthern coastnearAl-Arish,are thelargestalong thenorthern tribe.includetheTarabin, Others who SaudiArabia,andeachwiththeirowncustomsculture. wholivenorthern The Sukwarka, tribes,mostwithtiestoBedouinintheNegev,Jordanandand 300,000–belongto14distinct of thepeninsula. The Bedouin–whosenumbersare variouslyestimated tobebetween80,000 dwellers),mostofwhomlive are Sinai’s ruggedtracts inthenorth hometotheBedouin(desert THE BEDOUINOFSINAI OS • Nwia COAST ••Nuweiba Throughout theworld–andespeciallyin Egypt –tourismhasthepower toshapethedes- In recent inlightoftheir yearspersecutionoftheBedouinhassadly increased, particularly Thanks tocenturiesoflivingintheharshconditionsSinai,Bedouinhave developed a The seven BedouintribesinsouthernSinaiare knowncollectively astheTowaraor‘Arabs tourist trade, butthevagaries of theregional In the1990sIsraelis formedthebulkof the a residence forEgyptian government officials. convertedment), which hassincebeen into the site of alarge During theIsraelioccupation,Nuweiba was History moshav (farmingsettle- lonelyplanet.com SINAI , a 481 Stone House Ain al-Furtega , a palm grove fed by fed , a palm grove , a large cistern hidden cistern , a large Mayat Malkha just south of town. Divers sometimes sometimes Divers town. just south of Mayat el-Wishwashi Register with the police before beginning with the police before Register jeep also offer camps and shops the All of For an overview of diving in the Red Sea, diving in For an overview of In addition to trips to the popular Coloured In addition to trips to the popular Coloured other resorts on the Gulf of Aqaba, the dive the dive Aqaba, of the Gulf on resorts other busy, with an impressive to be less tend sites shallow reefs are There marine life. variety of places to snor- reasonable that are offshore is the but the best snorkelling kel, other popular destinations are other popular destinations are Nuweiba; oasis 16km northwest of palm-filled and floods. except after water, only a trickle of Nearby is the routes. until the safari, and don’t pay the camel driver Itineraries – and as a to the village. you return custom designed, generally prices – are result for an but expect to pay from E£70 per person evening trip into the mountains with dinner at a Bedouin E£300 camp, and from about per day for a safari including all per person and water. food safaris, though de- prices vary considerably year, your destination pending on the time of your party – don’t be afraid to and the size of hard. bargain shop around and information), for more p475 Canyon (see CAMEL & JEEP SAFARIS & JEEP SAFARIS CAMEL Dahab, Nuweiba is the the exception of With camel safaris into best place in Sinai to arrange in your trip, keep When planning the interior. a slower and – if budget mind that camels are travelling. way of expensive is a worry – more places that However, they allow you to reach the best and are inaccessible to vehicles, are Almost every camp and way to see the area. these care trips, but take offers shop in Tarabin that whoever Bedouin you pick is a local – by tour opera- they marginalised not only are need and therefore from the Nile Valley tors been some instances have the work, but there lost in the desert without water travellers of because their so-called guides didn’t know Reef Ras), p479 ( Gallum Rashead to nearby Abu or other ) p461 ( Park National Mohammed are which – many of destinations offshore – though most diving also fine for snorkellers based. shore is here and dive operators including recommended sites, see p439 . between two boulders in a canyon – it usedbetween two boulders in Sinai, but now has cistern to be the largest 8.30am-2pm 24hr) 350 0401) 350 8.30am-2.30pm h ( 9am-2pm Sun- 8.30am-2.30pm h % h ( 350 0090; Nuweiba City; h 8.30am-2pm Sun-Thu) 8.30am-2pm Sun-Thu) h 350 0231; near Nuweiba % ( h 9am-1pm & 7-9pm Sat-Thu, 9am-1pm & 7-9pm Sat-Thu, % ( Nuweiba Port 350 0302; Nuweiba City; h ( Nuweiba Port (Nuweiba City; % ( (Nuweiba Port; •• Nuweiba COAST (Nuweiba Port; (Nuweiba City; 24hr); Nuweiba City

9am-3am) (Nuweiba Port; h h

; Nuweiba Village

24hr) Just off the Main East Coast Highway to Dahab. 24hr) Just off the Main Highway East Coast

Nuweiba is divided into three parts: to the three is divided into Nuweiba Thu) Has an ATM. Thu) Has h Sun-Thu) of Nuweiba, and while not as dramatic as at of SNORKELLING & DIVING SNORKELLING & DIVING attraction the feature delights are Underwater TELEPHONE TELEPHONE centrale Telephone Activities Main post office Branch post office POST POST National Bank of Egypt Banque Misr Neither of the banks at the port will handle the banks at the port Neither of dinars. Jordanian Banque du Caire MONEY MONEY Nuweiba Hospital MEDICAL SERVICES MEDICAL SERVICES Al-Mostakbal Internet Café per hr E£6; INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS Tourist police Information Information EMERGENCY north along the beach is Tarabin, Nuweiba’s is Tarabin, north along the beach area. Assalah Dahab’s equivalent of options, a small bazaar and several cheap and severaloptions, a small bazaar cheap walk a 10-minute places to eat; and about north is Nuweiba City, a small but spread-out small but spread-out north is Nuweiba City, a accommodation settlement with a variety of south is the port, with a bus station,south is the port, with a bus banks and scruffy further 8km about a couple of hotels; half-built resorts. Orientation many new tourism projects to a halt. Today to a halt. Today projects many new tourism and the coastline Nuweiba of the outskirts of with the shells is littered north to Taba political situation over the past decade and the past decade over situation political forced have the Iraq war from the fallout lonelyplanet.com Village hotel; Has an ATM. Has Sun-Thu) Sun-Thu) 9-11am Fri) Both branches have an ATM. 9-11am Fri) Both branches have SINAI 482 NUWEIBA Inset Travel (1km) (1km); Abanoub To Mizena OS • Nwia COAST ••Nuweiba 0.1miles 200m 0 0 Dahab (87km);StKatherine’s Nuweiba Main East Coast Hwy To RasAbuGallum(45km); Port Monastery (120km) 7 Ras haitan(11km);Mahash Sweir (35km);Taba (70km) (20km); Basata(23km);Bir To MaaganaBeach(8km); Tarabin 4 23 (0.7km); HiltonNuweibaCoral Resort (4km);NuweibaCity 24 13 To MainEastCoastHwy (8km, seemainmap) 2 Dune 3 15 17 14 10 Beach 25 Entrance Nuweiba City Port 8 19 1 5 Resort (2.5km);Tropicana NuweibaHotel (3.5km); HiltonNuweibaCoral Resort Gulf ofAqaba (5.7km); Emperor Divers(5.7km); Nuweiba Port(7.5km, seeinset) Sultana Village (1km);LaSiréne To StoneHouseReef (1km); 400m 0.2miles 0 0 12 a ag...... C5 Han Kang...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Service Taxis...... Ferry TicketOffice...... Swiss Market...... Dr Shishkebab...... Cleopatra Restaurant...... Saraya BeachResort...... Nuweiba Village...... New SoftBeachCamp...... Nakhil Inn...... Moonland Camp...... Fayrouza Village...... Diving CampNuweiba...... Tourist Police...... Telephone Centrale...... Nuweiba Hospital...... National BankofEgypt(ATM)..... Main PostOffice...... Branch PostOffice...... Banque Misr&ATM...... Banque duCaire&ATM...... Al-Mostakbal InternetCafé...... East DeltaBusCoStation...... Habiba Camp...... Tourist Police...... 22 21 18 lonelyplanet.com 9 20 6 16 11 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 Beach 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B5 C4 B5 B6 A5 C5 D6 C4 C5 B1 D5 B2 B1 B2 C5 D5 B4 D6 B4 A4 D5 C4 A5 B5 SINAI

) i 483 ) The ais 350 1230; huts from E£20, 350 1230; huts from E£20, Located at the quieter at the quieter Located ) 010 364 7586; www.softbeach % 350 1133; fayrouza@sinai4you ( 350 1229; huts from E£20;

i %

( % 350 0401; www.nuweibaresort.com; ( %

( Yet another popular camp, the Yet % (

Located north of Moonland in north of Located ) a Saraya Beach Resort Moonland Camp Fayrouza Village Fayrouza are subject to bargaining, especially if there if there especially to bargaining, subject are also tourists in town. If you too many aren’t inquire activities, it’s best to want to arrange readily as discounts are throughyour hotel guests. for available Nuweiba Village s/d huts from US$15/20, r from US$40; for most choice is a good Nuweiba Village a consists of area – the main hotel budgets attached bungalow-style rooms collection of while a central garden area, overlooking camp consists of simple but spotless huts over- huts simple but spotless camp consists of communal bathrooms and looking the water, servinga small restaurant filling, tasty meals. arriving in Nuweiba by bus, ask to be If you’re it’s a dropped off at the hospital, from where to Fayrouza. walk down 10-minute Still, its fancy name. camp despite backpacker looking for camp ambience and the if you’re rooms room, its air-con a hotel privacy of Although the Saraya isn’t good value. offer Beach as the New Soft as scenically located right in the centre and the Moonland, you’re here. action the of MIDRANGE & TOP END taurant on the premises where you can sample taurant where on the premises Bedouin favourites. some local spot, the Moonland A popular backpacker Soft walk north of Camp minutes’ few is a Like Beach Tarabin. end of at the southern Beach,Soft accommodation is in a collection and huts built around communal showers of Though the compound a small restaurant. is somewhat closed in and set back from the works hard the friendly management beach, communal atmosphere. a relaxed, to create .com; huts from E£20) stands out with its location Village Fayrouza Nuweiba City and of at the edge on the beach the competition, the Like a reef. in front of BUDGET BUDGET New Soft Beach Camp E£20; camp.com; huts from dunes, the New Soft near the Tarabin end of Beach the best settings in Nuweiba. has one of rustic but picturesque The camp consists of and showers huts with communal outdoor is also a good res- gardens. There attractive the heart of Tarabin, this resort is more of a of is more this resort Tarabin, the heart of r from E£150; is named (Green Spring) Spring) (Green (the Palestinian (the Palestinian •• Nuweiba COAST is the largest oasis is the largest Ain Hudra intifada Wadi Sheikh Atiya is an impressive sandstone is an impressive Ain Umm Ahmed Ain Umm Ahmed is a mountain that is difficult to Be advised that the following list is a small Most backpackers and independent trav- Most backpackers Further afield, Wadi Huweiyit not to be taken at face value – most rooms at face value – most not to be taken have weathered the storm in light of decreas- the storm in light of weathered have in mind that prices are ing tourism. Also keep ments listed are well-established that spots are ments listed sampling of what is available – the establish- what is available sampling of the original camps have either closed or gone the original camps have upscale, it’s still possible to find a number of interesting spots. uprising against Israeli authorities). Today quiet, although it continues is very Tarabin While many of visitors. to attract a trickle of the resurgence of the of the resurgence mian scene that rivalled Dahab in popularity. however, has been Nuweiba Unfortunately, since Israeli tourists badly hit by the lack of gone by, Tarabin hosted a laid-back bohe- a laid-back hosted gone by, Tarabin ellers prefer Tarabin, which is essentially which a Tarabin, prefer ellers pedestrian-only boardwalk that stretches for 1.5km. In years along the waterfront the following day. the there are a few decent accommodation op- a few are there place to spend and it’s a convenient tions here, to Jordan the ferry catching the night if you’re taxi and choose a camp instead of going door taxi of and choose instead a camp However, to door looking for the best price. and decidedly lacking in character – getting – getting and decidedly lacking in character a around can be a pain, so it’s best to grab backpackers’ camps. Since Nuweiba primarily backpackers’ serves is sprawling as a port city, this area lation centre, and home to a collection of and home to a collection of lation centre, low-key a few plus hotels mostly midrange Nuweiba City is the area’s principal popu- is the area’s Nuweiba City climb, yet affords stunning views over the the climb, yet affords stunning views over Sinai. eastern mountains of Sleeping est tribe in the area – who lies buried here – who lies buried here est tribe in the area oasis here is an There dome. under a white and Bedouin come on pilgrimage. frequently Gebel Barga after the father of the Tarabin tribe – the larg- tribe – the Tarabin the father of after is where Miriam was supposed to have been was supposed Miriam to have is where for criticising Moses.struck by leprosy The picturesque canyon with lookouts giving panoramic views lookouts giving panoramic canyon with Saudi Arabia. to over the waters of Mayat el-Wishwashi and set el-Wishwashi Mayat of the waters colourful sandstone. amid palms, Bedouin with lots of Sinai, in eastern that becomes an houses and a famous stream months. winter in the icy river Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book SINAI US$40; your meals atyourcamp or hotel –mostof out inTarabin, you’llprobably take mostof eateries orthehotel restaurants. Ifyou’re City, where youhave achoice of small several tion ismuch better inandaroundNuweiba more thanaquickbite, theselec- however, forAqabaoffice ferries. Ifyou’dprefer abit ofNational Bank Egypt andbefore theticket ta’amiyya At theportthere isacluster of Eating via roadfromthe port area. 2.5km southof theTropicana,andabout4km interiors. It’slocatedwith Bedouin-style about style furnishings towhitewashed bungalows ing fromcontemporary designswithWestern- Accommodation isinavarietyof roomsrang- andalltheusualfive-star amenities.sand restaurants andbars, aprivate stretch of soft lush gardens,afree-form infinitypool,posh hotel isthisimmaculate resort, which boasts ais rfromUS$100; NuweibaPort; .hiltonworldresorts.com; Tropicana’s invitingrestaurants and bars. can alsounwindbythepool,orinanyof the the deep-blueGuests huesof theRedSea. attractive whitewashed building,andoverlook of varyingshapes andsizesare inan housed it’s welllandscapedwithlushgreenery. Rooms fronts asuperbstretch of beach, sandy and cellent value,especiallyconsideringthatit road,thisfour-starthe coastal hotel offers ex- rfromUS$60; nahotels.com; relaxing ambience of Nuweiba. moodtoenjoythe will putyouintheright advantage of theon-site yogastudio,which beachfronts inEgypt. Guestscanalsotake tive tomuch of theconcrete thatlinesthe and naturaltiles,are alterna- apleasant Rooms are asoothingmixof woods stained wooden bungalowsfrontingalarge patioarea. this charming inn,which consistsof attached off themain road. coastal is located atthesouthernendof NuweibaCity well-stocked water-sports centre. TheVillage amenities, includinganattractive poolanda guests cantake advantage of thethree-star Regardless of which all roomyouchoose, spaced woodenhutswithshared facilities. nearby onthebeach isacollectionof closely 484 Hilton Nuweiba Coral Resort NuweibaCoralResort Hilton Tropicana NuweibaHotel Nakhil Inn Nakhil OS • Nwia COAST ••Nuweiba a ) Atthenorthernendof Tarabin is ) placesinthearea behind the Nuweiba’smostsophisticated

( % 350 0879; www.nakhil-inn.com; rfrom 350 0879;www.nakhil-inn.com;

ais (

% 352 1056;www.tropica ( % ) Located along 352 0320;www fuul and want valueforyourmoney,looknofurther you’re alongwayfromtheFar thissur- East, on the beach). onatreking themoff (orsimplylazingabout calories andthenspendtheafternoon burn- lunchan especiallygoodbuffet –packinthe than thisall-you-can-eatspot,which offers favourites. fast-food platters, wood-fired pizzasandafew Western Lebanese-inspired mezze bounty of thesea, Nuweiba City,thiseclecticspotoffers upthe One of themore populartouristrestaurants in sandwich. falafel for awhileandcan’tbeartolookatanother spot, especiallyifyou’ve ontheroad been restaurantprisingly goodChinese hitsthe sauce). tomato delectable andhummusto from heartyfriedeggplant with generous spreads of Egyptian favourites This placeisjustwhatthedoctorordered, of localproduceandfresh cuts of meat. ofselection thebasics,aswelladecentstock this popularlocalmarket, which hasagood ( day of departure only atthe onthein Nuweiba)and canbepurchased arethat these notalwaysavailable atthebanks and take the fast ferry. itistoshellcomfortable out theextraUS$10 wecan’tstressdaily, though howmuch more child US$49/29,2½hours) leaving at noon ferry terminal building. shambolic departure formalitiesinthemain hours before departure toget the through three to12years. Youmustbeattheporttwo US$59 foradultsandUS$39children aged from Aqaba at11am.One-waytickets cost Heading back toNuweiba,fastferries depart conditions. to twohours dependingonsea onehouring Nuweibaat3pmandtaking Nuweiba inEgypt andAqaba inJordan,leav- between There’s anexcellentfast-ferry service BOAT Getting There&Away h you’re cookingyour own grub. facilitiesif the campsalsohave self-catering Swiss Market Tickets must bepaidforinUSdollars (note Habiba Cleopatra Restaurant Han Kang Dr Shishkebab Note thatthere’s alsoaslowferry (adult/ 9am) , inasmall buildingnear theport.

Camp daoud basha

(Nuweiba City;dishesE£20-40)

(Nuweiba City)

(Nuweiba City;buffet fromE£50)

(Bazaar NuweibaCity;dishesE£10-30) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotel

(Nuweiba City;dishesE£20-50) (meatballsinarich Self-caterers cantry Self-caterers ferry ticket office ferry ticket Although Although If you

SINAI

485 Taba Heights development Heights Taba , one of the lynchpins in in the lynchpins , one of 069 The closest places to change money, or to The closest places to change If you’re debating whether or not to stop debating whether If you’re Business, which traditionally has come traditionally has come which Business, NUWEIBA TO TABA TO TABA NUWEIBA much of the area is still under construction, is still under construction, area the of much open. are resorts although a few stock up if you want to self-cater, (unsur- are and Nuweiba. prisingly) Taba to seriously slow things down, and spend to seriously slow things down, and spend cast of some quality time with an interesting coastline will the Nuweiba–Taba characters, appeal immensely. Orientation & Information coastal well-paved 50km of Approximately highway connects Nuweiba with its northerly Taba 20km south of About Taba. of neighbour new is the massive (www.tabaheights.com) a ‘Red Sea effortsEgyptian to create Riviera’. it will houseWhen it’s finally complete, sev- numerous shops, a casino, eral luxury hotels, a medical clinic and and restaurants, bars facilities. For now, water-sports extensive the local Bedouin their land to forced off were development, and resort hotel way for make since grown into what the Ministry and have ‘clusters’. terms Tourism of Israelis, has suffered primarily from visiting recent with the political turmoil of greatly the of much have and you’ll frequently years, places at most a result, As coastline to yourself. other than relax to do nothing much there’s on the sands out at the turquoise while gazing or – if you’re you, before panoramas stretching camel and jeep – organise energetic feeling the interior. safaris to it’s worth ask- here, places listed the at any of If you are. traveller ing yourself what kind of likely you need constant stimulation, you’re However, if you want to go a bit stir-crazy. If you’re arriving in Nuweiba by bus, you can bus, you can by arriving in Nuweiba If you’re hospital, at the ask to be dropped usually from and Village walk to Fayrouza you can where nearby camps/hotels. % coastline betweenThe stunning and Nuweiba by and rimmed by aqua waters is fringed Taba mountains. there While low, barren of chains is lined it of much pristine spots left, a few are in various stages ‘tourist villages’ by a string of with simple beach completion, interspersed of huts and an eating reed camps consisting of these camps sprung up when of Many area. has buses 352 0371; Nuweiba Port) •• Nuweiba to Taba COAST (pilgrimage to Mecca) when when to Mecca) (pilgrimage % (

hajj

Free Jordanian visasFree can be obtained on To find the ticket office, right turn when youTo find the ticket

pensive. Expect to pay E£10 to E£20 for a taxi pensive. from the port/bus station to Nuweiba City, depending on your destination and negoti- kilo- and from E£5 for the few ating powers, and Nuweiba City. between Tarabin metres Getting Around Getting Around ex- taxis out, are Since Nuweiba is so spread E£60 to Cairo (usually changing vehicles in E£60 to Cairo vehicles (usually changing Suez). It’s also possible to find service taxis you will take that Tarabin at the outskirts of out on the road north towards Taba directly Monastery or south to Dahab, St Katherine’s el-Sheikh. Sharm or E£30 to Sharm el-Sheikh, E£15 to Dahab and E£30 to Sharm from Aqaba, you’ll have to wait a long time you’ll have from Aqaba, (multi- fares for the car to fill up. Per-person about car) average ply by seven for the entire There is a service-taxiThere station by the port, but has arrived when the ferry there unless you get SERVICE TAXI SERVICE TAXI four hours) at 6.30am, and an inconvenient at 6.30am, and an inconvenient four hours) via connection from Nuweiba to St Katherine 8.30am (E£22). Dahab departing at and 4pm going via Dahab (E£10 to E£15, one is a bus to Suez (E£45 to E£50, hour). There E£20, one hour); and to Sharm el-Sheikh (E£20E£20, one hour); and to Sharm 6.30am, 8.30am, 10am at hours) to E£25, three to Cairo to E£80, seven (E£70 to eight hours) (E£15 to at 9am, 11am and 3pm going via Taba BUS BUS East Delta Bus Co presto – you can collect your passport and presto visa when you pass through Jordanian im- Other nationalities will migration at Aqaba. in advance. a visaorganise need to port to the immigration officers and – hey officers port to the immigration the ferry if you have an EU, US, Canadian, if you have the ferry Australian or New Zealand passport. Fill out it and your pass- form on board, give a green the sand-coloured ticket office building ahead office ticket the sand-coloured ap- to your left. The office selling stops tickets leaves. ferry the before one hour proximately and turn right Bank the National again after of and you’ll see along one block, Continue Egypt. exit the bus station, the water, walking towards boats are booked weeks prior to departure. weeks prior to departure. booked boats are period, it’s necessaryDuring this to buy your possible. as as far in advance ticket Note that the only exception to this rule is this rule is to the only exception that Note the during lonelyplanet.com SINAI restored of Castle Salahad-Din. Thecastle waters,turquoise dominated bythe much- adult/child E£20/10; Egyptian coastis About 7kmsouthof Taba and 250moff the Sights 486 6.30am-5pm Oct-Apr) the cliffface,are the impressive burialplacesknowncollectively asthe seats, withthree separated horizontalsections bytwocorridors. theatre and colloquiallyknownasthe Hollywood classic especially sincethebuildingisprecise locationoftheHolyGrail–atleastaccordingto of first-time visitors. Standingbefore theTreasury isamagical totheancientcity, introduction thebreath enoughtotake away sophistication, symmetry,scaleandgrandeurofthecarving fall inlove withPetra. The Hellenisticexterior isanastonishingpieceofcraftsmanship,withthe you lookaroundeachcornerforyourfirstglimpseoftheTreasury, Petra’s mostfamousmonument. side matchestheother. The Siqcanseemtocontinueforever, andthesenseofanticipationbuildsas by tectonicbeen rentforces–atvariouspointsyoucanseewhere apart thegrainofrockonone The ancientcityisapproachedviathe Sights &Activities rants andshopslocated about3kmfromthe The basetownforexploringPetra ofMoses),apatchymasshotels, restau- is WadiMusa(Valley Orientation &Information itsdailypassageover rangeofcoloursthatblendasthesunmakes to theextraordinary thesite. Petraswirls formedintherock. City’,buteven isoften thishardlydoesjustice calledthe‘Rose-Red cities. asthemonumentsthemselves Almostasspectacular are thecountlessshadesandNeapolitan East’smostremarkable concealed fromtheoutsideworld,andfashioneditintooneofMiddle Nabataeans –Arabswhodominated theregion times–choseastheircapitalaplace inpre-Roman and tombsare tribeswhosculpted anenduringtestament them.The tothevisionofdesert Hewn fromtoweringrockwallsofmulticoloured sandstone,theimposingfaçadesofitsgreat temples PETRA Here’s aquickguidetooneofthe‘NewSeven WondersoftheWorld’. Planning abriefexcursiontoJordan?WishingyouhadbitofinfoontheancientcityPetra? LONELY PLANETJORDAN(ABRIDGED) of publication, one Jordanian Dinar (JD) wasapproximatelyof publication,oneJordanianDinar(JD) equaltoUS$1.42andE£7.83. one-hour uphillslogfromthe one-hour been discovered isthattheNabataeans lived intents, someBedouindotoday. muchlike assumed thatthecitywasjustonevastnecropolis. The simplereason whysofew dwellingshave more tombsdotted aroundPetra thananyothertypeofstructure, and for yearsarchaeologists heavy Hellenisticinfluences. has toweringcolumnsandalarge theTreasury bytwohalf-pediments,and like urnflanked has inside walls,suggestingthatthebuilding wasusedasachurchinByzantinetimes. The building onits3rd centuryBCasaNabataeantomb,the Monastery getsitsnamefromthecrossescarved Treasury, theimposingMonastery –50m wideand45mhigh–isjustasimpressive. Builtinthe OS • Nwiat aa COAST ••NuweibatoTaba The WadiMusa river into bedwidensoutafter carved thetheatre –totheright(ornorth), Heading towardstheancientcitycentre are over 40tombsandhousesbuiltbytheNabataeans Tucked awayinsuchaconfinedspace, One ofPetra’s mostmagnificentsightsis , whichwasbuiltover 2000 years agoandhasacapacityofabout3000in45rows h Pharaoh’s Island Pharaoh’s . Entryfees passes. Note are thatatthetime JD21/26/31forone-/two-/three-day Indiana JonesandtheLast Crusade 9am-5pm) , atinyisletin Petra byNight Street ofFaçades Colonnaded Street (Gezirat Fara’un;(Gezirat

Siq , a canyon-like passage that is actually a single block that has asingleblockthathas passagethatisactually , acanyon-like Al-Khazneh visitors’ centre

(admission JD12; Al-Deir . Continuingalongyou’llreach aRoman-style feared attempt thattheymight tohead for itwas of successes, At theheight Crusader penetrationsouthfromPalestine.Crusader Saladin in1170as abulwarkagainstfeared in 1115,butcaptured and expandedby is actuallyafortress builtbytheCrusaders . (Cardo Maximus).Similarindesigntothe , ortheMonastery, whichisreached via a , ortheTreasury, iswhere mostvisitors h

( % 8.30-10.30pm Mon&Thu) 3-215 6020; Royal Tombs h 6am-5.30pm May-Sep, 6am-5.30pm May-Sep, lonelyplanet.com isamagical . There are SINAI

. ) 487 is Conveniently Conveniently ) is Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade and the Last Indiana Jones The only boat to the island runs from the the island’s southern end. There is also a café is also a café the island’s southern end. There and snacks. serving drinks soft on the coast just oppo- Salah ad-Din Hotel, the service Unfortunately, site. is unreliable, ticket though if the boat is running, a return Located in the centre of Wadi Musa, this popular Musa, this popular of Wadi in the centre Located ) A simple and friendly place located off the Shaheed located A simple and friendly place i Near the centre of town, this tourist restaurant special- of town, this tourist restaurant Near the centre (meals from JD1) If you’ve never been to a bar in a 2000-year-old Nabataean rock Nabataean rock been to a bar in a 2000-year-old never If you’ve

3-215 7070; www.amrapalace.com; s/d JD23/35, half board JD25/40; s/d JD23/35, 3-215 7070; www.amrapalace.com; (mains from JD6)

3-215 7111; www.moevenpick-petra.com; s/d JD92/112; 3-215 7111; www.moevenpick-petra.com; % (

% 3-215 7090; s/d JD10/14; 3-215 7090; s/d ( % (

•• Nuweiba to Taba COAST (drinks from JD2.5)

Cave Bar Cave Mövenpick Hotel Mövenpick Amra Palace Hotel Amra Palace From the ferry terminal in Aqaba, share taxis meet arriving ships in order to shuttle tourists to arriving ships in order to shuttle tourists to taxis meet in Aqaba, share terminal From the ferry shuttle service a though a free to and from the visitors’ centre, offer In Wadi Musa, most hotels Sandstone Restaurant ises in Jordanian dishes, including spit-roasted lamb and whole chickens, which are served up served and whole chickens, lamb up which are ises in Jordanian dishes, including spit-roasted outdoor beer garden. to hungry diners in an attractive located just 100m from the entrance to Petra, this is the most luxurious place in town, and as and as this is the most luxurious place in town, to Petra, just 100m from the entrance located stylings, chain. Heavy on the Mediterranean hotel posh as you’d expect from the renowned with a beautiful swimming pool, guests, and then holds their attention in lures the Mövenpick bars and restaurants. library, and a whole slew of on-site rooftop gardens, a Middle Eastern Located in Wadi Musa, this midrange hotel offers bright and modern rooms without breaking bright and modern rooms without breaking offers hotel in Wadi Musa, this midrange Located TV, the bank. Choice amenities include satellite outdoor pool, Jacuzzi, summer terrace a heated bath (JD15 per person). and an excellent Turkish Rooms with private bathrooms are fairly simple aside from a few Jordanian textiles strewn about, about, strewn textiles Jordanian from a few fairly simple aside bathrooms are Rooms with private makes this place a winner. atmosphere though the communal backpacker spot offers the obligatory nightly screening of of nightly screening the obligatory backpacker spot offers Getting There & Away & Away There Getting Jordan, in Aqaba, (one way US$59) depart at 3pm and arrive ferries from Nuweiba, Egypt, Fast fast Heading back to Egypt, on sea conditions. depending one to two hours later approximately at least two hours terminal departat the ferry ferries from Aqaba for Nuweiba at 11am. Arrive and banks in not accepted, are pounds US dollars with you. Egyptian to have early, and be sure if you be obtained on the ferry Jordanian visas can Free US dollars available. have town rarely passport, or New Zealand though other nationalities will Australian an EU, US, Canadian, have . p484 crossing, see information on the ferry For more a visa in advance. need to organise it helps to be a good negotia- dealing with taxi drivers, When in Wadi Musa. hotel their desired Generally speaking, you to bring down the price. a lot of friends with you can tor – and to have ride takes approximately The Wadi Musa. US$15 per person to reach expect to pay approximately of open desert. stretches two hours, and winds through some attractive than JD1 or JD2. Although shouldn’t cost you more in Wadi Musa to Petra taxi ride from anywhere available sights, donkeys accompanied with guides are little difficulty exploring Petra’s hikers have value, though their for the novelty more rides are Camel prices. for negotiable all around Petra Arabia. of wrap yourself up likephotogenic appeal is undeniable, especially if you Lawrence Eating & Drinking Eating & Drinking Quick Restaurant Al-Afandi Sleeping Sleeping Cleopetra Hotel way to see the old city, taking you along the Siq (lined with hundreds of candles) in silence as city, taking see the old way to as candles) in silence of hundreds (lined with along the Siq you is served.and mint tea is played music traditional Bedouin where Treasury, far as the tomb (and we’re guessing you haven’t!), then this memorable spot near the visitors’ centre is an centre then this memorable spot near the visitors’ guessing you haven’t!), tomb (and we’re must. absolute roundabout, Al-Afandi caters primarily to locals, and offers hummus, felafel and shwarma at and shwarma at hummus, felafel locals, and offers primarily to caters roundabout, Al-Afandi prices. rock-bottom of the modern restoration is incongruous is incongruous the modern restoration of was not a prime building material (concrete in Saladin’s time), but the island is a pleas- ant place for a half-day trip, with limpid and at and coral for snorkelling enticing waters the holy cities of Mecca and Medina. Some Some and Medina. Mecca the holy cities of lonelyplanet.com SINAI Accommodation isinsimplehutsthatlack conveniently located justnorthof Nuweiba. tothewind,thisstretchexposed of is sand and recycles itsrubbish. There are simplehuts hotel, organically which uses grownproduce vironment isreflected inthe philosophyof the owner Sherif Ghamrawy’s concernfortheen- travellers’ thatlives settlement byitsname– an ecologicallymindedandhugely popular Mahash (‘simplicity’inArabic), area isBasata Twenty kilometres northof Nuweibainthe per personUS$7,hutsfromUS$12,3-personchalet fromUS$60) the mostof the local seafood. deliciousmealsthatmake rant, which serves herestaying beachside isthedelightful restau- Head’.named ‘Satan’s Oneof theperksof that boastdramaticviewsof the frighteningly bungalows Accommodation isincomfortable range campsalongthisstretch of coastline. isoneof thefew Beach mid- land), Castle Just northof nearthe AyyashCamp with shared facilities, and no electricity. stretch of canvastents sand, andsimplehuts onawide Ayyashhasaplacidsetting Bedouin, the Nuweiba–Taba strip.Ownedbyalocal it’s oneof themostpopular beach areas on the paceof life hasreturned tonormal, and 2004 Taba p489).Sincethen bombings(see this stripof coastlinewasalsoattacked inthe Head)(Satan’s about3kmnorthof Maagana, Located Shaitan on therockypointof Ras far fromtown,thisisa good choice. Taba coastline,butdon’twanttoventure too together. Ifyouwanttoexplore theNuweiba– really bringthisplace staff helpful Bedouin much individualpersonality, the though from E£20) diving safaris Sinai. throughout the optionslisted canalsoarrange and desert bring theirownfoodandself-cater. Allof agoodnumberofthough visitors prefer to available atallof thepropertieswe’ve listed, orbus.Note taxi alsothatmealsare by service own transport,theonlywaytoreach themis from southtonorth–unlessyouhave your Note thataccommodationoptionsare listed Sleeping are available on landing. the hotel reception, andtickets fortheisland costs onlyUS$4.Tickets are available from 488 o Ayyash Camp BeachCamp Maagana Castle Beach Castle OS • Tb COAST ••Taba Although it’s close totheroadand it’sclose Although Basata

(

%

( ( % % 012 7398495;hutsfromE£80; 350 0480; www.basata.com; camping 350 0480;www.basata.com; camping 012 7604668;hutsfromE£20) ( % 012 7952402;huts ras (head- a

) from US$115; Nuweiba, and set ona2km-longstretchNuweiba, andset of in Sharm. Nestled beside the mountains close in Sharm. close Nestledbesidethemountains and elegancetypicalof thefive-star resorts Graves toreplicate andseeks theopulence American designerandarchitect Michael pastel hotel wasdesignedbythefamous small beach bar and restaurant. tering of simplebeach hutssurroundinga (huts fromUS$35),which consistsof asmat- also operates thenearbyAquasunGhazaly prefer abitmore intimacy,themanagement you wanttotake advantage of thegroundsbut ortwodefinitelynight won’tbreak thebank.If tion of facilitiesandamenitiesonoffer, anda going upinTaba Heights, there isagoodselec- notasswishthehotels andresortsAlthough anyone lookingforasplashof low-key luxury. room domedresort spotfor isanaffordable reef, completesand withitsownhouse this75- r fromUS$55; and loudmusicare thankfully prohibited. family friendlywithaNewAge twist,andTVs are available, theambienceisvery laid-back and blocks. Anycookingingredients youcouldwant to have prepared meals),abakery andshower orarrange a kitchen (where youcanself-cater ity andprivate bathroom,alarge campingarea, chaletssharing facilities,pleasant withelectric- tion between the two countries for nearly a the twocountries fornearlya tion between Treaty. aminorpointof Ithasbeen conten- under theterms of the 1979Israel–Egypt Peace last portionof Sinaitobereturned toEgypt Taba holdsthedubious distinctionof beingthe % TABA help youhailabusfrom the road. Whenyou’reCairo). ready will toleave, staff full Nuweiba–Taba fare (E£12, or E£70from you’llprobably haveously, although topaythe you atanyof theplacesmentioned previ- fromeitherTabaBuses orNuweibawilldrop Getting There&Away was lostinthe p489). 2004 bombings(see to recapture asliceof thetouristindustrythat Taba Heights project, development andaims Hyatt Regency isoneof theshowpiecesof the expanding listof gourmetrestaurants. The centre, extensive water sportsandarapidly pools,alargeing lushgardens,several health to thebeach, ithasexcellentfacilities,includ- Club Aquasun Hyatt Regency 069 nais as

(

% Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ( % ) Located 30kmnorthof 350 1208;www.clubaquasun.com; 358 0234;www.taba.hyatt.com; r ) Thistasteful desert- SINAI

) s 489 ) has its bus The Hilton from 10am; 353 0140; www.hilton h

353 0250) %

( ais % (

350 1234, 012 214 0591; www % (

Castle Zaman Taba Hilton Village Nelson Taba hour) leave at 7am, 9am and 3pm, with the at 7am, 9am and 3pm, with hour) leave (E£25 7am bus continuing to St Katherine also a bus from There’s to E£30, four hours). about noon. Cairo that passes to Nuweiba Taba to Cairo to seven (E£70 to E£80, six Departures and 4.30pm, at 10.30am, 12.30pm are hours) Getting There & Away Getting There & Away is open 24 hours border, which The Taba–Eilat crossing be- and reliable daily, is the only safe information, and Israel. For more tween Egypt see p524 . AIR Air has suspended its domestic flights Egypt although it still maintains an to/from Taba, The airport is at Hilton. office near the Taba town. Taba Ras an-Naqb, 38km from BUS East Delta Travel Company station along the main road about 800m south Buses (E£15, one to Nuweiba the border. of lush grounds overlooking the turquoise waters the turquoise waters lush grounds overlooking of Although the scars Aqaba. the Gulf of of Hilton still evident,the attack Taba the are to resolve stands to Egypt’s as a testament domestic terrorism. fight .castlezaman.com; meals from E£110; beach also a bar, a pool, a small private There’s per night rooms (available and a couple of from US$1000 to only those who want to rent It’s a good idea to the castle out in its entirety). call in advance to confirm opening times, as for weddings the castle is sometimes booked other events. or 2004. Although a handful of tourists stop here here tourists stop 2004. Although a handful of town to little in the is Israel, there to en route in the hotels and today most of warrant a visit, closed simply shut and their doors have Taba in the years change things will down. Perhaps will the damage to come, though it’s unlikely undone. entirely ever be from US$100; Beach; r .com; Taba and sympathy in gained worldwide attention a ter- it was destroyed in of 2004 when much rorist attack. it has been Since then, rapidly a good selection of offers and now rebuilding, compound, setrooms in its Nelson Village in This atmospheric stone castle on a cliffThis atmospheric stone with has the best cuisine along the gulf views over portions huge featuring coast, of this stretch grilled lamb. a full rack of as such items of in the 24hr) h

( •• Taba COAST post & telephone office

For an overview of the history of terrorism terrorism the history of For an overview of As part of this agreement, Israeli travel- this agreement, part of As

stroyed following the despicable attacks of stroyed following the despicable attacks of Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating was de- Taba of Sadly, the tourist potential in Sinai, see p457 . p457 in Sinai, see of the country. Though the country. the Israeli–Egyptian of and relatively safe perfectly border remains to cross, it’s still worth paying at- hassle-free to warnings. tention virtually ceased to exist, which means that there virtually ceased means that there to exist, which in other parts targets likely perhaps more are Taba is still possible. However, it’s worth men- is still possible. Taba tioning that tourism in the town has since then attacks in Sinai have targeted tourists in Sharm tourists in Sharm targeted attacks in Sinai have another attack inel-Sheikh, the possibility of when a truck bomb brought down several Hilton. Although subsequent the Taba of floors Taba area killed 34 people and injured over 150 over injured killed 34 people and area Taba these attacks of occurred people – the worst On 7 October 2004, three bomb attacks bomb in the 2004, three On 7 October booths. Cash and travellers cheques can also cheques Cash and travellers booths. Hilton. Taba at the be exchanged Dangers & Annoyances are currently no flights). Just inside the border currently are and several foreign-exchange an ATM are hospital, a bakery and an Egypt Air office Air office and an Egypt hospital, a bakery closed there and Hilton; it’s often (near Taba There is a There Centre Emergency town, along with the Taba Orientation & Information Orientation & Information lers heading between Egypt and Israel & the heading between Egypt lers Palestinian Territories. of Israeli travellers, tourism has unfortunately tourism has unfortunately Israeli travellers, of primarily Today Taba virtually ceased in Taba. serves travel- as a border crossing for overland following a series of deadly bomb attacks deadly bomb following a series in of number a large 2004 that killed and injured velopment throughout the town. However, velopment lers were permitted to visit Taba visa-free for visa-free to visit Taba permitted were lers tourism de- sparked which up to 48 hours, a decade, the issue was submitted in 1988 to in 1988 issue was submitted a decade, the ruled in which commission, an international to Egypt Taba returned – Israel favour Egypt’s that year. later therefore the lines drawn in 1949 and 1979 drawn in 1949 and 1979 the lines therefore lasting nearly a dispute After in error. were decade. Egypt argued that Taba was on the was on the that Taba argued Egypt decade. to agreed line the armistice of side Egyptian on that it was Israel contended in 1949, while between border agreed a side of the Ottoman and in 1906, Egypt and British the Ottomans Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book SINAI Although at times it can be difficult topry attimes itcanbedifficult Although declaredbeen aUnescoWorld Heritage site. and thecore partaroundthe monastery has world’s three main monotheisticreligions, tects awealthof historicalsites sacred tothe ecosystem, itpro- desert unique high-altitude adjacent MtSinai.Inadditionto the area’s ism onStKatherine’s Monastery andthe of effects rimental rapidlyincreasing tour- was created in1996tocounteract thedet- The 4350-sq-km StKatherine Protectorate % ST KATHERINEPROTECTORATE Christianity and Islam. theSinaiinannalsof Judaism, mortalised im- tory tookplace,which hasconsequently most sacred inrecorded events humanhis- Against thisdesolate backdropsomeof the much of theterrain fora4WD. toorockyeven and camelsare thebestwaytotravel, with thewilderness, stillwanderthrough Bedouin appears togrowmagicallyoutof therock. and falls,whatlittlevegetation there is of pink,ochre andvelvet black as thesunrises landscapesturnshades The rocksanddesert that burst intolife theshortest witheven rains. wind-sculptedmountains, canyonsandwadis Sinai’s rugged interior ispopulated bybarren INTERIOR the busisnottoo far off. to Cairo. Yourbargaining powerincreases if Sharm orStKatherine’s, el-Sheikh andE£55 E£15 toNuweiba,E£30Dahab,E£45 leave immediately. Per-person fares are about can paytheequivalentof fares allseven and a longwaitforthevehicle tofillup–oryou passengers. Ifbusinessisslack,youmayhave Taxis waitbytheborderfor andminibuses TAXISERVICE Taba Hilton. ated justbefore theborderpost,opposite the 0333; [email protected]; rental isavailableCar at CAR Getting Around 3pm (bothcontinuingto Sharm el-Sheikh). leave at7am(terminating inDahab),9amand Sharm (E£25toE£30,3½hours) el-Sheikh toDahab(E£20,2½hours)7.15am. Buses and and toSuez(E£45E£50,fourhours) at 490 069 NEIR • tKteiePoetrt Protectorate INTERIOR ••StKatherine Max Car Rental Car Max

h 6am-8pm) (

, situ- % 353 only. lcl guides. local Sinai, thisisthebestplacetoinquire about rived onanorganised tourfromelsewhere in guide.hire Ifyouhaven’t alocalBedouin ar- from tourism,visitors are alsorequested to of historicaland religious significance. trail, explainingfloraandfaunaaswellsites each bookletstake youthrough Sinai. These in the area,established includingoneforMt informative guidestofour‘interpretive trails’ the entrancetoAl-Milga. Here, you’llalsofind admission US$3) Office Protectorate Entry fees are payable atthe Information Bedouin. Jabaliyya and isknownasthe‘Meeting Place’bylocal town of Al-Milga,which isalsocalledKatreen, Approximately 3.5kmfromhere isthesmall is theancientStKatherine’s Monastery. into abarren valleyatthefootof MtSinai is thetowering2285mMtSinai.Tucked the otherpeakssurroundingmonastery Rising upoutof and juttingabove thedesert Orientation missed. be to theStKatherine Protectorate isnotto awayfromSinai’sbeaches,yourself avisit noon Mon-Wed, Fri &Sun, exceptreligious holidays) noon Mon-Wed, Fri 02-482 8513; [email protected]; admission free; ancient The ST KATHERINE’S MONASTERY Sights independently. everything confines of theprotectorate, andtoorganise However, p481). it’s bothcheap withinthe andeasytosleep Nuweiba or (p475) Dahab departing fromeitherSharm ( el-Sheikh p466 ), Katherine Protectorate onanorganised tour The majority of visitors arrive atthe St Tours Telephone centrale Hospital St Katherine Police Banque Misr town of Al-Milga. 5-8pm Sat-Thu) CashadvancesonVisaand MasterCard. ate Office) To allowthelocalpopulationtobenefit The followinglistingsare located inthe ( % 347 0046; beside the St Katherine Protector- 347 0046;besidetheStKatherine (besidepetrolstation; , located atthetouristvillage near St Katherine’s Monastery St Katherine’s

( (beside the bakery; (beside thebakery; % ( % 347 0032;www.stkparks.gov.eg; 347 0263)Very basic care h lonelyplanet.com 10am-1pm & h St Katherine St Katherine

( 24hr) % h traces in Cairo 9am- SINAI 21 491 (300m); Mt Sinai Church Church To Steps of Repentance Mt Sinai 20 To Camel A2 A2 A2 Trail (50m); 15 17 D 25 26 27 14 8 5 Ὀ 6 7 , with its nave flanked by by flanked , with its nave 10

Wadi 3 0 100 m 13 18 16 Entrance 22 19 SLEEPING EATING SHOPPING Monastery Guesthouse...... Café...... Shop...... Well of Moses...... (see 16) 4 24 D2 C1 D2 C1 C2 D2 D1 C2 23 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 1 Although much of the monastery is is the monastery of Although much Today a paved access road has removed road has removed access Today a paved 2 of the Transfiguration lookers) and onto the slopes of Egypt’s highest Egypt’s and onto the slopes of lookers) mountain lies about peak. The peak, which Mt Sinai, subsequently became 6km south of body Katherine’s known as Gebel Katarina. was subsequently later 300 years ‘found’ about in a state of by monks from the monastery perfect preservation. the hazards that used to accompany a trip and both the monastery to the monastery, with routinely packed and the mountain are tour buses It is especially full and people. early in the morning, although somehow the to manages tranquillity interior monastery’s the crowds. When you despite itself felt make that this is still a function- visit, remember conserva- necessitates which ing monastery, is permitted – no one with shorts dress tive to cover be sure and women must to enter, their shoulders. by angels away from the torture device (which away from the torture by angels pagan on- control and killed the spun out of closed to the public, it is possible to enter closed to the public, it is possible to enter 6th-century decorated the ornately 12 11 B St Stephen's Well...... Subterranean Cistern...... C2 C1 Library...... Monastery Museum...... Monks' Quarters...... Monks' Quarters...... Mosque...... Old Refectory...... Round Tower...... St Stephen's Chapel...... D2 C1 C2 C2 D1 D1 D2 D1 A2 C2 B2 B2 C2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 9 Gardens INTERIOR •• St Katherine Protectorate 25 AC 26 Church of St Katherine...... Courtyard...... Entrance to Courtyard...... Hospice...... Ikon Gallery...... Archives...... Burning Bush...... Central Tower...... Chapel of St Antonius...... Chapel of the Burning Bush...... Charnel House...... Ancient Bishop's Gate...... Archbishop's Quarters...... Ancient Gate...... C2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES To Main Road (2km); Al-Milga (3.5km); St Katherine Hospital (3.5km) 27 The monastery – which, together with with together – which, The monastery ST KATHERINE'S MONASTERY ST KATHERINE'S 2 3 1 Tradition holds that her body was transported Tradition holds that her body was transported after St Katherine, the legendary martyr of martyr of the legendary St Katherine, after on a spiked Alexandria, who was tortured wheel for her faith. and then beheaded the surrounding area, has been declared a a has been declared the surrounding area, – is named site Unesco World Heritage early Christianity’s only surviving churches. early Christianity’s only oldest continually functioning monastic com- is one of munities in the world, and its chapel journeys to reach the remote and isolated site. site. and isolated the remote journeys to reach the one of is considered Today St Katherine’s from throughout the world, many of whom whom from throughout the world, many of difficult extraordinarily dangerous and braved for the Christians of southern Sinai. Since then for the Christians of has been by pilgrims the monastery visited together with a basilica and a monastery, to to with a basilica and a monastery, together home for the monastic com- a secure provide and as a refuge munity that had grown here, century Emperor Justinian ordered a fortress a fortress century Emperor Justinian ordered original chapel, around the to be constructed empress Helena had a small chapel and a for- had a small chapel Helena empress for local hermits built beside tified refuge what was believed to be the burning bush to Moses. In the 6th God spoke from which its founding to about AD 330 when the Roman its founding to about

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ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ SINAI mountain region. visiting as partofmountain For those of themagnificence of southernSinai’shigh with crowdsof othervisitors, itoffers ataste you’ll invariablybeoverwhelmedalthough iseasyandbeautifultoclimb, mountain atitssummit.The Commandments toMoses of thatGoddelivered whombelieve hisTen revered byChristians,MuslimsandJews, all MtSinaiis Musa, Known locallyasGebel tend tobethe most crowded. and Wednesday,whileSaturdayMonday visiting themonastery are generally Tuesday drinks andsnacks.Theleastcrowdeddaysfor entrance), andacaféwithanarrayof cold side themonastery compoundjustnearthe items andin- (with branches inthemuseum replicasselling of iconsandotherreligious monastery’s manuscripts andilluminated Biblesfromthe andapricelesscollection ofcrosses, ancient merous precious chalices andgoldsilver icons fromitsworld-famous collection,nu- cluding someof Byzantine-era thespectacular many of themonastery’s artistictreasures, in- displays (labelled in Arabic andEnglish) of recently magnificentlyrestored. been Ithas also knownastheSacred Sacristy,which has Museum from it.Above thewellissuperb whodrink to give happinesstothose marital Well ofMoses centuries later. Neartheburningbush isthe in the10thcentury,andcontinuestothrive bush wastransplanted fromthenearbychapel compound. Accordingtothemonks,this of theoriginal tobeadescendant whatisthought sible tosee Burning Bush monastery’s holiestarea, the iconostasis. the pastthechandeliers tosee and can bedifficult of thetransfigurationof it Christ,although ofa 6th-centurymosaic thebiblicalaccount monastery’s moststunningartistictreasures, above intheapse High is one of thealtar the mains are interred limitstomostvisitors). (off wheretuary andtheapse, StKatherine’s re- thenave separates iconostasis fromthesanc- church’s eastern end,agilded17th-century in richly gildediconsandpaintings.Atthe massive marblecolumnsandwallscovered 492 M SINAI MT To theleftof isthe andbelowthealtar Outside themonastery wallsisagiftshop NEIR • tKteiePoetrt Protectorate INTERIOR ••StKatherine (adult/child under12yr/studentE£25/free/10) , a natural spring that is supposed , anaturalspringthatissupposed . Accessisrestricted, butit’spos- library burning bush . inthemonastery Chapel ofthe Monastery Monastery , into the distance, andit’susuallypossibleto into thedistance, leys andof chains jagged mountain rollingoff offer viewsof spectacular nearbyplungingval- kept locked). Boththeclimbandsummit itisusually ings andornaments(although where there isasmallchapel paint- containing of steps 750rockyanduneven tothetop, Here,Basin. musttake everyone series asteep the summitataplateau knownasElijah’s Repentance the summit– into biblical times. a pilgrimage, italsooffers amoving glimpse the chill atthesummit. Trustus– bothare (E£5) andmattresses (E£10)tohelpwardoff soft drinks,and vendors renting outblankets down. than if you’re rather male)torideupthemountain, a camel,it’seasierontheanatomy(especially thesteps.camel trailmeets Ifyoudecide totry to take youallorpartof thewayto where the camel atthebase, people walkup,butit’salsopossible tohire a that canbeslipperyonthedescent. Most times fiercewinds–beinggravelly patches –apartfromsome- only potential difficulty as itmoves of upaseries switchbacks, withthe pace. Thetrailiswide,clearandgently sloping about twohours toascend,moving atasteady when themonastery opens for visitors. and thenarrive before backatthebase 9am, of thesunrisingover thesurroundingpeaks, in thepre-dawn themagnificence hours tosee Mostpeoplemakein thedistance. theclimb summitof higher Katarina theeven Gebel see There are twowell-definedroutes upto The cameltrailistheeasierroute, andtakes En route tea and are kiosksselling several anything butfun. And, ofcourse,decompression sicknessis end upconfinedinahyperbaricchamber. us –you’llbedelayedalotlongerifyou this maycomplicate yourtravel plans,trust if you’ve beenonmultipledives. Although tain for12hoursafter onedive, or18hours As ageneralrule,avoidclimbingthemoun- enough toinducedecompression sickness. ing recently, beadvisedthatMtSinaiishigh full ofresidual nitrogen.Ifyou’ve beendiv- ifyourbodyis particularly Altitude cankill, CAUTION CLIMBING &DIVING:AWORDOF – which meet about300mbelow –which meet just behindthemonastery, camel trail andthe lonelyplanet.com Steps of Steps SINAI

, 493 Galt al- (Valley (Valley (Gate of of (Gate Farsh Farsh Asara Wadi Shagg , through Gebel Abbas before heading before and the ruins of a and the ruins of Wadi Gibal and goes through Wadi Zuweitin . The walk then goes Bab ad-Dunya Ain Nagila (Blue Pools) and takes three three and takes (Blue Pools) (bustans) Gebel Abu Gasba . Many hikers then climb either hikers . Many Abu Giffa Pass Abu Giffa Pass or , taking a detour around . A one-hour hike up a fairly easy but . A one-hour hike plants and animals. cal importance and the local Bedouin and traditions. culture and burn your toilet paper. bodily waste sources. , a deep, dramatic pool in the rock, before , a deep, dramatic pool in the rock, before Galt al-Azraq Farsh Arnab Farsh any object, including rocks, Removing Disturbing or harming animals or birds. or uprooting plants. Cutting Writing, painting or carving graffiti. and histori- religious Respect the area’s bury your out with you, your litter Carry water or overuse Do not contaminate One of the most common circuits goes the most common to One of „ „ „ „ TREADING LIGHTLY IN THE IN THE TREADING LIGHTLY PROTECTORATE In order to limit the impact of tourists upon this special place, the following code is now in force: „ „ „

illegal: following acts are The nation for anyone with a rugged and adven- and with a rugged for anyone nation day to from half a range Treks turous bent. either on and can be done a week more, or to walk, if you decide foot. Even camel or on you’ll need your food at least one camel for and luggage. the via the Al-Milga The trail leaves to four days. to the spring of to the spring of of the Olives), with ancient olive trees said trees with ancient olive the Olives), of by local Bedouin been the by planted to have night The first tribe. the Jebaliyya founder of is a small stone and there spent here, is often can sometimes sleep. The hikers hut in which through continues hike high passes and along the valleys of and Ras Abu Alda at Byzantine monastery the World). On the third day the trail leads the of to the crystal-clear, icy waters Azraq continuing on the fourth day through more dramatic wadis to a camel pass on Basha man-made Wadi Tubug holes and lush, springs, water are there where walled gardens through the picturesque start of the camel start of INTERIOR •• St Katherine Protectorate As late as mid-May, be prepared to share the to share be prepared as mid-May, late As Due to the sanctity of the area, and the tre- and the area, Due to the sanctity of During summer try to avoid the heat by avoid During summer try to St Katherine’s Monastery lies in the heart of lies in the heart of Monastery St Katherine’s and the South Sinai’s high mountain region, desti- is an ideal trekking surrounding area TREKKING TREKKING before it joins the Steps of Repentance. of it joins the Steps before Activities small hours before sunrise. For more tranquil- sunrise. For more before small hours from as impressive just lity, the dawn views are shortly the camel path, of the upper reaches people nudging each other for space, it can for space, it can other people nudging each be difficult to actually sleep, especially in the tors, some carrying stereos, others Bibles and others some carrying stereos, tors, hymn books. With the music and singing, and summit with up to several hundred other visi- summit with up to several hundred old cypress tree, marking the spot where the where marking the spot tree, old cypress God. Bring prophet Elijah heard the voice of sufficient warm clothes and food and water, a is no space to pitch a sleeping bag, as there even cold and windy, in summer, It gets tent. common. are light snows and in winter are asked to sleep below the summit at the asked are you’ll find Here small Elijah’s Basin plateau. several composting toilets and a 500-year- Office has instituted various regulations. If Office various regulations. has instituted you spend the night on the mountain,you mendous pressure that large groups place on that large mendous pressure National Parks the environment, the Egyptian the southeastern corner of the compound. corner of the southeastern wall of the monastery past the end of the com- past the end of the monastery wall of Repentance outside begin of pound. The Steps (flashlight) is essential. The by walking along the northern trail is reached beginning your hike by 3am. Although stone beginning your hike been placed on the trail as guides, signs have it can be a bit difficult a torch in parts, and concentration in placing your feet. If you want your feet. concentration in placing the path to take it’s best to try both routes, afford – which steps on the way up and the – on the the monastery views of impressive back down. way roughly hewn rock, and are steep and uneven roughly hewn rock, and are strong knees and in many places, requiring The steps – 3000 up to Elijah’s basin and then up to Elijah’s basin and – 3000 The steps of made to the summit – are the final 750 summit, the taxing 3750 Steps of Repentance, of taxingsummit, the 3750 Steps penance. one monk as a form of was laid by rocks, and the blankets (even though they the blankets rocks, and you from the camels) will protect smell like to the path The alternative howling winds. worthy investments as the mattresses will pro- as the mattresses investments worthy the ice-cold from protection layer of vide a lonelyplanet.com SINAI with a Sheikh’s tomb and Bedouin settle- with aSheikh’s tombandBedouin local Bedouin Solimanand Farag local Bedouin al-Gebaly campingperpersonE£5,dm/dE£15/40) yahoo.com; Camp oftheDesert Fox BUDGET Sinai aspartof acheap, organised tour. and thensimplyaccessStKatherine’s andMt in eitherDahab( p472 ) orNuweiba( p479 monastery. It’salsopossibletospendthenight ) (Katreen), approximately 3.5kmfrom the inthevillage ofand guesthouses Al-Milga monastery, there are hotels alsoseveral which isinfactlocatedGuesthouse, atthe In additiontotheaptlydubbedMonastery Sleeping snow,arefrost, andeven common in winter. Keep inmindthat itcanget very – coldatnight jacket, bagandtoiletpaper. agoodsleeping sunblock,awarm boots, ahatandsunglasses, walking comfortable springs. You’llalsoneed lets, unlessyouwanttorely onthemountain register withthepoliceprior to leaving. yougowith,besure Whoever to mountains. discourage destructionof thefew trees inthe should alsobuyfirewood here inorderto E£50 perdayforfoodandequipment.You to E£100perday,withanadditionalE£30 below ). Guidedtreks typicallycostaboutE£50 or anyof thecampsandhotels we’ve listed (see Mountain ToursOffice and mostare arranged eitherthe through another popular day trip. painted therockshere bluesomeyears ago,is Blue Valley ofmountains SaudiArabia onaclearday.The includethe ing, andthepanoramacaneven trail. Theviewsfromthetopare breathtak- buttaxing summit alongastraightforward top of inscriptions. Ashorter tripisthehike tothe Nugra reached awindingcanyoncalled through rain-fed which is cascadeabout20mhigh, ment; the and retraces itsway to Al-Milga. backtoWadiZuweitin The trailthengoes stunning viewsfromthesummit(2304m). the 19th-centuryviceroyAbbas HilmiI,with steep pathleadstoaruinedpalacebuiltby 494 2642m. Ittakes aboutfive hours toreach the Make sure youbringwater-purification tab- guide All treks mustbedonewithaBedouin Other destinationsinclude NEIR • tKteiePoetrt Protectorate INTERIOR ••StKatherine ; and Gebel Katarina Katarina Gebel , given its name after a Belgian artist , given itsnameafter aBelgian Nugra Waterfall Nugra Waterfall Naqb al- Faria (

% , Egypt’s peakat highest

( % , acamelpathwithrock 010 641 3575) , a difficult toreach,, adifficult 347 0344;faragfox2003@ Sheikh Awad Sheikh in Al-Milga, in Al-Milga, Run by Wadi , ris.org/alkarm; Sheikh Awaad;camping/rperpersonE£25/75) Sheikh ris.org/alkarm; can arrange you. forsomeonetomeet hotel-camp islocated justupfromFox of the i .sheikmousa.com; campingpertentE£10,dm/dE£15/40; can helpyouorganise treks toSinaiand area are on offer here. other camps,treks andtours the throughout room.Asabout choosing theright withthe bathrooms, thisisagoodchoice ifyou’re fussy private roomswithbothshared andprivate avarietyof Offering dormand Camp. Desert E£25/50/60) dmE£15,s/d/trfrom 658 9550;[email protected]; the bus stand. in Al-Milga,andisaneasy500mwalkfrom located trekking nexttothemountain office Thecampis upinthemountains. chilly night bathrooms withhotwater –ablessingafter a ful of matsandshared roomswithsleeping hewn single-storey structure offering ahand- is abackpacker favourite. El-Malga isarock- around theprotectorate, thispopularcamp the main round. PlazaHotel aboutthe Catherine 200mfrom The campisinAl-Milga,ontheroadbehind fromaboutsafaris E£75perperson perday. the real treat istheircustom-tailored desert The owners offer theobligatorytreks, though budget campwithsimplebutcleanfacilities. (also knownastheFox), thisisarelaxed fast. Afavourite of pilgrimstheworld over, to themonastery before having yourbreak- so youcanliterally rollout of bedandwalk next toStKatherine’sIt’s right Monastery, can’tbebeat. thing, theMonastery Guesthouse room &halfboardUS$35/55/70) Monastery; dmperpersonhalfboardUS$25,s/d/tr withbath- Guesthouse Monastery MIDRANGE ( Office you aren’t withalocal,calltheProtectorate from StKatherine ontheWadiFeiran road–if follow thetrackfromTarfa village, about20km kitchen and endlesstranquillity.Toget here, simple rooms,solar-heated shared showers, a ofsmall settlement Sheikh Awaad.Itoffers side Al-Milga,isinaremote wadinearthe Al-Karm EcolodgeBedouin-owned wellout- yourself inthebeautyof southernSinai,the forimmersingA fine,albeitrugged, base El-Malga BedouinCamp El-Malga Al-Karm Ecolodge Al-Karm &Camp Safary MoonlandHotel ) Run by the affable Sheikh Musa, who Sheikh Musa, Runbytheaffable % This friendly,Jabaliyya-run budget 347 0032) for directions and staff 347 0032)fordirections andstaff Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( %

( 347 0032;ecolodges.saharasafa %

Iflocationisyour ( 347 0353; St Katherine’s 347 0353;StKatherine’s % 010 6413575;www ( % 347 0085,010

SINAI 495 . Those has its has its and the , (believed 347 0250)

% ( Gebel Serbal Sikket ar-Reshshah East Delta TravelEast Delta Company Feiran also has biblical significance – it is Feiran The valley is also an ideal spot from which The valley is also an ideal spot from which Many hotels and camps in Dahab, Nuweiba and camps hotels Many to trek into the surrounding mountains. into the surrounding To to trek the south, the 2070m Mt been the real by early Christians to have along a six-hour hike Sinai) is a challenging track also known as with fantastic rewarded are who persevere into the Gulf of Suez. Sinai’s largest oasis, it Suez. Sinai’s largest into the Gulf of beautiful, containing more and very is lush well as Bedouin palms, as than 12,000 date Sinai’s tribes. all of communities representing palms Stone walls surround the date the wadi side of rocky mountains on each that stand out colours subtly different have at sunrise and sunset, making the landscape dramatic. more even Moses struck a believed to be the place where rock with his staff, and bringing forth water, Christian stronghold in became the first later early Christian rebuilt Sinai. An extensively from this time, although remains convent you need from St Katherine’s permission to visit. if you want Monastery and Sharm el-Sheikh, as well as travel agencies agencies el-Sheikh, as travel as well and Sharm in Cairo, monastery trips to the organise also Mt Sinai. and SERVICE TAXI Service taxis monastery usually wait at the from Mt Sinai in for people coming down again around noon the morning, and then A lift to the village end. when visiting hours on paying about costs E£10 to E£15. Plan el- to Dahab/Sharm E£30/45 per person To Cairo,Sheikh. E£400 expect to pay about per vehicle. WADI FEIRAN servesThis long valley as the main drainage high mountain region for the entire route bus station and ticket office on the main road on the main office bus station ticket and to is a daily bus There office. near the post Cairo (E£37, six to seven at 6am, via hours) Suez (E£35, four hours), and Wadi Feiran to E£25, to Dahab at 1pm (E£20 and another con- onward you can get where two hours), For Sharm Nuweiba and Taba. nections to it’s necessary and Luxor, el-Sheikh, Hurghada buses in Dahab. Eastto change Delta buses from depart from Cairo to St Katherine’s at 10.30am (and about Garage Turgoman from Al-Maza). noon This popu- 347 0333; s/d half % This simple and Feiran INTERIOR •• Wadi

( 748 2671; s/d half board from board from 748 2671; s/d half ) (dishes E£2-15) This four-star establish- This four-star

% a ( (dishes E£5-15)

One of the nicest midrange hotels hotels the nicest midrange One of ) a

Kafeteria Ikhlas Katrien Rest House St Catherine’s Tourist Village Daniela Village

St Katherine’s Monastery is about 3.5km from is about 3.5km Monastery St Katherine’s buses is where Al-Milga (which of the village el-Sheikh and Cairofrom Dahab, Sharm will rounda- drop you), and 2km from the large the two. bout on the road between Getting There & Away Getting There & Away BUS under palm fronds, and serves hearty break- meals. vegetable rice and fasts and chicken, friendly restaurant has carpets and low tables friendly restaurant chicken, rice and vegetable meals either inside vegetable rice and chicken, a veranda. or on lar Bedouin-owned serves restaurant filling trails. Just behind the bakery are a few sim- a few are the bakery trails. Just behind though either most tourists ple restaurants, self-cater their meals at at the camps or take their hotel. mosque and several well-stocked supermar- mosque and several well-stocked for in the shopping arcade – perfect kets hitting the stocking up on supplies before Eating Eating the opposite a bakery In Al-Milga, there’s 2km from the bus station. 2km from the hotel, about 500m past the hospital hotel, and about protectorate’s rugged treks, you’ll be glad you treks, rugged protectorate’s It’s lo- dished out the extra cash to stay here. along the same as Daniela Village road cated landscape. If you want to sprawl out in com- landscape. the on any of punishing your body fort after option, with pleasant stone bungalow-style the surrounding rooms that blend in with board from US$85/100; accommodation ment is Al-Milga’s plushest diagonally opposite the hospitaldiagonally opposite and about bus station. 1.5km from the in Al-Milga, this reasonably priced three-star priced three-star in Al-Milga, this reasonably huts affair stone-clad prefab is comprised of grounds. around attractive scattered that are is a popular bar and restaurant The on-site in need if you’re tourist hang-out, especially It’s an all-night (or four) after trek. a Stella of US$55/80; the Monastery Guesthouse offers well-kept well-kept Guesthousethe Monastery offers out to keep and blankets with heaters rooms and a pleasantthe mountain patio area chill, at the mountains.with views towards Meals filling and tasty, and are cafeteria the on-site dol- extra for a few arranged can be lunches per person. lars Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotel your stay Book SINAI you must turn off at Ras Sudrandfollow you mustturnoff atRas visited. Fromthecoast,track andseldom lieve that theinfantJesuslieve along alsopassed and Arab Muslims.Infact,theCopts be- the Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Crusaders times astheWay of by Horus,itwasused ry’s oldestmarch routes. Knowninancient followswhatmust beoneofhighway histo- Asiaroad between andAfrica,thecoastal sculpted intolowdunes.Assands across- Mediterranean coastbacked bysoft white off limitstoforeigners, andapalm-fringed a barren interior, much desert of which is visitedRarely bytourists,Northern Sinaihas NORTHERN SINAI eigners are forbiddento it. use leads northfromhere toAl-Arish, butfor- stocked supermarket andabakery. Aroad asurprisinglywell- It boastsapetrolstation, Peninsula, surroundedbyavastwilderness. munity sitsalmostinthecentre of theSinai another60km east.Thislittlecom- Nakhl, for about 20kmyou’ll reach for theturn-off have yourownvehicle orhire a taxi. toeither is nopublictransport,you’llneed the unsignposted roadfromthere. As there tion of his fortress. beforefrom theHolyCityeven thecomple- theCrusadersout, Saladinmanaged toevict advanced asfarJerusalem. As itturned ontheCrusaders,launch whohad attacks still largely fromwhich to asabase intact, He the fort,which is alsoplannedtouse to protect thepilgrimsmakingtheirhajj. prompting Saladintobuildafortress here followed allconverged atQalaatal-Gindi, way toMecca. Thethree caravan routes they Mediterranean streamed acrossSinaiontheir 12th centuryMuslimsfromAfricaandthe ofSaladin Fortress al-Gindi, which features the800-year-old east of theAhmedHamdi Tunnel,isQalaat In thecentre of Sinai,about 80kmsouth- QALAAT AL-GINDI&NAKHL Monastery. Katherine’s is mosteasilyarranged inAl-Milga,nearSt guideforallhikes, this though by aBedouin panoramic views.Youmustbeaccompanied 496 Continuing northfromQalaatal-Gindi Qalaat al-Gindiiswelloff thebeaten OTENSNI • lAih SINAI••Al-Arish NORTHERN (Salahad-Din).Inthe 2.30pm Sun-Thu) 2pm &6-8pm Sun-Thu) Governorate Bldg, Rafah Governorate Bldg,Rafah Rd; to themain market area. changing nametoSharia Tahrir ontheway– which runsacoupleof kilometres south– forms aT-junction with Sharia 23rdof July, Orientation erly neighbour of Sharm ( el-Sheikh p462 ). more upscale(andunashamedlybrash)south- hotels, Al-Arish isapopularalternative tothe smattering of holidayvillages andbeachfront ing Cairenes arrive Withamodest enmasse. coastline of Al-Arish comes alive whenholiday- traders fromaround Bedouin the peninsula. tling centralmarket of thatdrawsinthousands town formuch of theyear,asidefrombus- Unsurprisingly, Al-Arish resembles aghost ofdefault thecapital NorthSinaiGovernorate. is theonlymajor city intheregion, andby sult of geography, thisinhospitable Al-Arish Mediterranean byalimestoneridge. As are- fromthe separated lagoon of Bardawil, Lake Fuad andAl-Arish isdominated bytheswampy Much of thenorthcoastof Port Sinaibetween % AL-ARISH flight into Egypt. this route withhisparents duringtheir 2.30pm Sun-Thu) National BankofEgypt Banque Misr Banque duCaire Bank ofAlexandria MONEY h Public Hospital Hospital Military Mubarak MEDICAL SERVICES El Basha.Net ACCESSINTERNET police Tourist Ambulance EMERGENCY Information 6-8pm Sun-Thu) road,ShariaThe maincoastal FuadZikry, In summer, however, thelong,palm-fringedIn summer,however, 24hr) Tobeavoidedexceptinthedirest emergencies. 068 /pop50,000 ( % (off Sharia Tahrir; (offSharia (perhrE£2; ( % ( 123) % (Sharia 23rdofJuly; (Sharia 336 1016; Sharia Fuad336 1016;Sharia Zikry; (Sharia 23rdofJuly; (Sharia 336 0010; Sharia Fuad336 0010;Sharia Zikry; (Sharia Tahrir; (Sharia h h ( 11am-3am) % 24hr) h 332 4018;near 9am-2.30pm & lonelyplanet.com h h h 8.30am- 9am- 8.30am- h 24hr) SINAI , 497 (300m, . For . For Inset (3km) see inset) 5 To Mosque Taxi Stations Main Map 010 544 2641; 010 544 2641; 1

(Coast Rd; ad- Same Scale as 9am-5pm Sat- To Bus & Service 7 D

% ( h (

9.30am-2pm Sat-Thu) 3 Mosque 2 12 (per person US$5)

h To Public Hospital (500m); Airport (8km); Rafah (48km) Airport (8km); Rafah Tahrir Sinai Heritage Museum (3km); Sinai Heritage Museum dormitory

of July 6 Mubarak Military Hospital (1.5km); Mubarak Military Hospital 15 23rd 14 Midan Mosque camping Al-Gamma 4 visitors’ centre 11 (500m, see main map) To Banque du Caire 00 500 m 0.3 miles and Sinai Heritage Museum To Bedouin Market (300m) ὈὈ ὈὈ As-Salam A2 D4 D4 D2 D1 C4 D4 D3 D3 B1 B1 A2 C1 D3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 , with a cafeteria and information about and information about , with a cafeteria 10 11 12 13 14 15 The small and drink with you as there is no restaurant, is no restaurant, and drink with you as there available though basic cooking facilities are on site. mission E£1, camera/video E£5/25; along the coastal Al-Arish on the outskirts of destination for nature lovers. The entrance The entrance lovers. destination for nature was established by which to the protectorate, Office in 1985, Parks National the Egyptian Inside the Al-Arish. 35km east of is about is a there gates is also a simple There per person US$10) both options, you will need to bring all food some of the species of birds that stop here birds that stop here the species of some of betweenas they migrate Europe and Africa. Thu) Mosque

sunrise- Fuad Zikry Fuad h B 24hr) 9 8.30am-2.30pm 8 h Banque Misr...... D4 INFORMATION SLEEPING EATING TRANSPORT Taxi Rank & Microbus Stand...... Tourist Police...... El-Arish Resort...... Hotel Sinai Sun...... Safa Hotel...... Semiramis Hotel...... Aziz Restaurant...... El-Arish Resort Restaurant...... (see 10) Bank of Alexandria...... Banque du Caire...... El-Basha.Net...... Main Post Office...... National Bank of Egypt (ATM)...... Telephone Centrale...... Tourist Office...... h (admission US$3;

Beach (off Sharia Tahrir; (off Sharia Tahrir; 336 3743; Sharia Fuad Zikry; 336 3743; Sharia Fuad NORTHERN SINAI •• Al-Arish (off Sharia Tahrir; (off Sharia Tahrir; % (

AC M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A E S N A E N A R R E T I D E M 13 , a haven for migrating birds and a good for migrating birds and a good , a haven

9am-2pm Sat-Thu) 9am-2pm

10 AL-ARISH 2 3 1 4 To Zerenike Protectorate (25km); Qantara (160km); Ismailia (200km) h Sat-Thu) sunset) about 25km east of Al-Arish is the 220-sq-km is the 220-sq-km Al-Arish about 25km east of Zerenike Protectorate Stretched along the Mediterranean coast coast along the Mediterranean Stretched Lake Bardawil of until edge from the eastern Sights & Activities Sights & Activities TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION Tourist office Telephone centrale Telephone TELEPHONE TELEPHONE Main post office POST POST

lonelyplanet.com

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ὄὄὄὄ

ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ SINAI small andrun-down,thelackof air-con theleast.RoomsatSafaareis thintosay budgetthat thelinebetween andbare-bones near thetowncentre, keep inmind though is themainbudget choice ifyouwanttobe the SinaiSunisoneof themore respectable ageing hotel are toshow theiryears, starting which makes iteven better value. it’s possibletobargain thepricesdownabit, management. Ifyou’re here inthelowseason, initely countoncleanlinen andno-nonsense nothing towrite homeabout, butyoucandef- budget spotsintown.Sure, theroomsare from E£75/85/90; correctly. chosen localflavour,looking forsomeserious you’ve viewofhas adistant theocean,andifyou’re rooftop thepleasant However, terracenight. means you’re the goingtosweatthrough Safa Hotel Sleeping &Eating enforced. sporadically is abeach curfew after itisonly dark,though in theconfinesof theEl-Arish Resort.There swimminghereuncomfortable unless they’re Note thatwomenmayfeel the lowseason. spots inEgypt, andwonderfullypeacefulin wave, itisoneof thebetter Mediterranean cleanwatersand, andtheoccasionalsmall months. Withitsparadeof palms,finewhite which packsinthecrowdshotsummer buying for shops. Cairo usually save theirbestwares formiddlemen women bargain asthesavvy hardtoget these, the craftsare to of quality,you’llneed high ing soldtheirownhandiwork.Whilesomeof thewomenbuyinggoldafter hav- you cansee Sometimes camelsaddles. while themensell silver, beadworkandembroidered dresses, ally oncamels,withtheveiled womentrading inpick-uptrucksoroccasion- from thedesert comein It’s fascinatingtowatch asBedouin Arabic andinEnglish astheSouqal-Hamis. the mainmarket –note thatit’ssignposted in 2pm Thu) explanation. English and traditionalmedicines,withtheodd tools,handicrafts, clude Bedouin clothing ditional nomadiclife inSinai.Displaysin- inform visitors tothepeninsulaabout tra- inorderto wasestablished road toRafah, 498 Hotel SinaiSun Hotel Al-Arish’s otherattractionisitslong Much livelier isthe OTENSNI • lAih SINAI••Al-Arish NORTHERN , heldatthesouthernedge of townnear

( % 335 3798; Sharia Tahrir;335 3798;Sharia s/dE£25/35) a

( % ) Although therooms at this Although 336 1855; Sharia 23rdof July;s/d/tr 336 1855;Sharia Bedouin market (

h Safa beach 9am- , lcl specialities. local pare multicourse mealsforyoufeaturing with advancenoticetheownercanpre- as grilledchicken, kofta, – riceandspaghetti filling mealsof restaurant offersexcellent andaffordable innerroom,this an invitingBedouin-style are onlyfilled during summer. these swimming poolsonthegrounds,though surf. There’s alsoarestaurant andtwolarge tothesoundsofenabling youtofallasleep the all of theroomshave viewsandbalconies, sea understated compared totheresorts inSharm, of white-sand beach. it’sincredibly Although is perfectly located onalong,breezy stretch five-star establishment this fadedbutpleasant US$65/85; across thestreet aren’t worth considering. near thewater astheonesincompound of sure low-key toaskforaroom luxury.Be spending afew extradollars toindulge inabit by lounge chairs andleafypalms,it’sworth With aninvitingswimmingpoolsurrounded still asignificantstep upfromthecompetition. placetotheEl-Arishsecond it’s Resort,though takes adistant spots intown,theSemiramis from US$35/45; around E£20 to E£25 per person. Service taxis taxis around E£20 toE£25perperson. Service fromAl-Arish taxis cost toCairo Service TAXISERVICE 3pm and4pm.For Suez,change inIsmailia. hours) at7am,10.30am,11.30am, 1pm,2pm, departures toIsmailia(E£10,three tofour to E£25)departingat8am,4pmand 5pm,and Company 8am and4pm.Similarlypriced, E£28, five hours) departing ineach direction at (E£23to toandfromCairo hasbuses Superjet BUS the towncentre (aboutE£2in a taxi). next toeach other,about 3kmsoutheastof are stations The mainbusandservice-taxi Getting There&Away setting. relaxed inspired dishesamidasophisticated but anappealingrange of Continental- serves town, therestaurant attheEl-Arish Resort E£25-75; El-Arish Resort El-Arish Semiramis El-Arish Resort Restaurant Restaurant Resort El-Arish Restaurant Aziz a

as ( % ) One of thechoicest eateries in

as 332 5931) Hotel ) (

Formerly theOberoiHotel, Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % fuul

( (Sharia Tahrir;(Sharia dishesE£5-25)

% ) Oneof themore upscale 335 1321; Sharia Fuad335 1321;Sharia Zikry;s/dfrom has buses to Cairo (E£18 toCairo hasbuses and 336 4167/8; Sharia Fuad336 4167/8;Sharia Zikry;s/d (Sharia Fuad(Sharia Zikry;dishes ta’amiyya, East Delta Travel East DeltaTravel aswell With SINAI 499 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © tive peace and calm of Sinai. Since it’s been Sinai. Since calm of peace and tive anyone (or foreigners time since some quite to cross the permitted were for that matter) easeborder with into Gaza, Rafah little is of E£10. For border-crossing details and warn- E£10. For border-crossing ings, see p524 . interest to anyone except for the odd journal- to anyone interest With that to Gaza. heading ist or aid worker Gaza spilling the volatility of of said, fears policed heavily Sinai has led to a into over your of all so unless you have border crossing, documentation clear in order, it’s best to steer a press- If you do have Rafahof altogether. the border, however, to head for ing reason several service taxis between run daily Al- Arish and the Rafah for about border crossing NORTHERN SINAI •• Rafah

068

the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. marks the border with the Gaza Strip, the the Gaza Strip, the marks the border with that is territory Israeli-occupied Palestinian (to say away from the rela- the least) a world % Al-Arish, This coastal town, 48km north of RAFAH RAFAH southern end of town. Microbuses shuttle reg- Microbuses town. shuttle of southern end 25pt. for and the beach ularly between here Getting Around Getting Around The main taxi stand rank and microbus is at the near the market at Midan Al-Gamma, to Qantara E£12 to Ismailia E£10 to E£15, cost for vice versa) border (or and to the to E£17, to E£20. E£10 from anywhere lonelyplanet.com