SOAVE

Soave: why producer is key Northeast ’s classic dry white has come on in leaps and bounds in the past few decades. Michael Apstein gets to the heart of this hilly region, highlighting six of his favourite producers and selecting 12 of the best to try

SOAVE HAS NEVER been better. Ian D’Agata, Classico zone (delineated in 1927) well before ‘The DOCG a world authority on Italian , says flatly: the DOC was established. The DOCG Soave ‘It’s rare to get a bad Soave today.’ I’d go even Superiore, created in 2002, included this designation further – it’s easy to get a very good one, and at Classico area – and here’s where the a price that won’t break your budget. But that controversy started – as well as other hillside fails to certainly hasn’t always been the case. areas, named Colli Scaligeri after the Lords of If your memory of Soave is the watery, bland who owned much of the area in the identify all liquid that Bolla marketed so successfully 14th century. decades ago (many consumers assumed the Classico producers felt the inclusion of of Soave’s Above: Dario Pieropan is cellarmaster at his family name of the region was actually Bolla Soave) these other, less well-situated hillside , the fourth generation to run it along with TRENTINO- Soave then it’s time to try it again – even Bolla’s diluted the reputation of the ALTO ADIGE FRIULI- 1 Pieropan 4 Inama N his manager brother, Andrea best wines VENEZIA (see p48). And Soave’s renaissance is a double Classico area, and have opted to continue to Trento GIULIA 2 Prà 5 Coffele 3 Gini 6 I Stefanini boon for consumers, because the prices have label their wines as Soave Classico DOC Lake Young Soave has a subtle peachy stone-fruit because Garda failed to keep up with the quality. instead of Soave Superiore DOCG. Hence, the Soave Classico character buttressed by lively acidity and a Soave Superiore So how can you take advantage of the DOCG designation fails to identify all of many top Vicenza Soave hint of almond-like bitterness on the finish. bargains that abound? Since the usual Italian Soave’s best wines because many of the top Verona Venice Typically, cru wines are more concentrated SOAVE Limit of Soave hierarchical DOC/DOCG classification is producers have decided not to use it. wine region and fuller in body and require two or three producers River Adriatic San Giovanni flawed in Soave and the newly adopted cru Enter the ‘cru’ system. Using soil analysis Po Sea Ilarione years of bottle age for full expression and – system is confusing and imperfect, my advice and micro-vinification tests, Soave’s consorzio have decided EMILIA-ROMAGNA Alpone here’s the surprise – can develop beautifully is the same as when choosing Burgundy: has mapped vineyards to identify the best over a decade or so. Montecchia producer, producer, producer. ones, which they refer to as cru. This makes Cazzano di di Crosara Consumers are lucky to have examples from not to use it’ Mezzane Tramigna On the following pages are six producers enormous sense in a place like Soave where the 2015 and 2016 in the market at Ronca who make outstanding Soaves and dispel the the volcanic soil and exposure of the vineyards d’ the moment. Both are excellent years, though misconception that they are all simple wines varies dramatically over small distances. Illasi different in character, with the 2015s being 5 SP17 to be drunk within a year or so of release. But Soave’s cru system is problematic and 6 richer and riper, while the 2016s are generally But first, the reasons why the DOCG and cru confusing for consumers. Regulations SP16 SOAVE racier. The 2017s, just appearing, resemble the Limit of Colognola categorisations don’t help the consumer. governing yields or minimal ripeness levels, Soave 2015s more than the 2016s. Ai-Colli Normally, wines from areas awarded DOCG for instance, are no more stringent for the crus wine region 4 11 Monteforte status are better and more distinctive than than for other Soave vineyards. Furthermore, Soave 1 3 d’Alpone Pieropan San Martino 2 11 wines from DOC areas – at least that’s the producers can still use non-geographic names Buon Albergo A4 In 1971, decades before the Soave consorzio theory. It’s not, however, the case in Soave. on their labels, so consumers don’t know began to study the concept of crus, Pieropan A4 0 1 2 3 4 5 The best hillsides, with their limestone-rich whether the name on the label refers to a cru San Bonifacio started to bottle its now iconic Calvarino. Still kilometres and volcanic rock-laden poor soil, defined the or the producer’s grandmother. a family business, fourth-generation ➢

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winemaker brothers – Andrea, who looks after the vineyards, and Dario, who runs the cellar – are in charge. Apstein’s pick of the region All 46ha of its Soave vineyards, which were certified organic in 2015, are in the Classico Gini, La Froscà, Soave metres apart. Denser, but not zone. As befits a viticulturist, Andrea insists: Classico 2014 94 heavier, it maintains the bright racy ‘The vineyard name is more important than £13 (ib)-£19.85 Hailsham character of top Soave. It also has a the appellation,’ which explains why Calvarino Cellars, Justerini & Brooks, seemingly neverending finish. is proudly displayed on the front label, while Tannico, Winedirect Drink 2018-2023 Alc 12.5% Soave Classico is relegated to the back label. La Froscà ranks with Pieropan bottles wine from another cru, La Calvarino, Monte Grande Ca’ Rugate, Monte Rocca, which has more clay in the soil and and a few others as Fiorentine, Soave translates into a more robust wine compared Soave’s grand cru sites. Classico 2016 91 to the racier Calvarino. Above: Sandro (left) and Claudio Gini in vineyards Wines from vineyards of £15.12-£18.73 Corking Pieropan consistently makes great wines, planted by their forebears more than 50 years ago this nature, regardless of Wines, Exel, GP Brands, from its Soave Classico to its cru, that have country, need time. This 2014, rich Hallgarten, Wineman precision, reflect their origins and develop without sulphites at this stage. The new with nutty undertones, has started This cru delivers a marvellously with a decade or more of bottle vaulted, gravity-flow, temperature-controlled to show development while slightly waxy texture age. When I visited Pieropan last September, cellar dug into the volcanic rock gives them maintaining the freshness that underpins its stony Andrea poured a 1995 Soave Classico that – it’s so clean, you could eat off the floor. characteristic of the . essence. From dark Superiore that he had opened three days Gini’s iconic wine comes from the Froscà Drink 2018-2023 Alcohol 12.5% volcanic soil, it’s a earlier (prior to the DOCG, ‘Superiore’ was Above: all of Pieropan’s vineyard, a cru. A vertical tasting of Froscà in concentrated wine that, like many used to indicate a wine with additional 46ha of vineyards were 2009 of wines dating back to 1990 was Pieropan, Calvarino, youthful Soaves from top sites, ripeness). It was magnificent, with a - certified organic in 2015 eye-opening: tasted blind, the wines could Soave Classico 2015 94 needs time in the glass for its like nose and a waxy, creamy texture. easily be mistaken for white Burgundy. £17.50-£23 widely available raciness to show. Drink 2018-2023 Right: Graziano Prà via UK agent Liberty Wines Alc 12.5% Prà believes his name, not Inama A blend of Garganaga and Graziano Prà sums up his impression of Soave’s DOCG system, Stefano Inama is emphatic as we stand on di Soave, this Prà, Staforte, Soave Classico Soave’s DOCG system when he says matter-of- is the only guarantee of Monte Foscarino, the major hill of Soave delivers more stone fruit 2016 91 factly, and without a trace of arrogance: ‘Mi quality his wines need Classico: ‘Soave is not a winemaker’s wine. and less spice than the £22 Ann et Vin, D Byrne & Co, Highbury chiamo Prà,’ (my name is Prà) explaining that This is the winemaker,’ as he points to the regular Soave Classico Vintners, Taurus Wine, The Clifton Cellars that’s enough of a guarantee. He was the one vineyard. He continues: ‘The less interference (see p48). Nonetheless, it Not a cru, but rather made from a who, in 1983, decided to bottle wines under in the cellar the better.’ still has gossamer selection of Prà’s best Garganaga the family name instead of selling his grapes The lava soil – the Classico area is a series of elegance and invigorating grapes, this is fermented and aged to the local cooperative. ancient volcanic cones – makes the wines floral freshness. A substantial wine that in stainless steel tanks with six Prà makes an amazing line of Soave and minerally, rather than fruity, says Inama. cries out for chicken in a creamy months of lees contact to add Classico, starting with Otto, named after a He explains that is well adjusted to sauce. Drink 2018-2023 Alc 12.5% complexity. With a seductively Below: Inama’s Soave favourite (but sadly deceased) border collie. Gini the volcanic soil and, when it is planted creamy texture, it delivers an extra Classico 2016 Made entirely from Garganega, it represents The Gini family is one of the oldest, most elsewhere, it produces a very different, far less Inama, Vigneto du Lot, Soave dimension without sacrificing 80% of the winery’s production, roughly established wine producers in Soave. Located in distinctive wine. Garganega has very little Classico 2016 93 energy and verve. Wonderfully 20,000 cases. Next up the ladder is Staforte, Monteforte d’Alpone, the heart of the Classico varietal flavour itself, which means it transmits £22.87 Bernabei elegant, the acidity prolongs its made from a selection of grapes, fermented region, the family has been growing grapes the unique flavours of tufa-volcanic soil This bottling comes from a ‘modern’ finish. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 12.5% and aged in stainless steel tanks with since the 17th century. Documents from the beautifully. Hence, it will never be a variety 2ha trellised vineyard, in contrast occasional batonnage and six months of lees mid-19th century confirm that Giuseppe Gini that is planted all over the world. to the usual pergola planting Coffele, Castel Cerino, contact to add complexity. purchased vineyards there. Soave’s problem in the past, Inama explains, traditional to the area. Weightier Soave Classico 2016 90 The flagship wine comes from the Monte Today, brothers Sandro and Claudio Gini is that, in response to its popularity, growers and more complex, with floral as £9.50 FortyFive10°, Grande cru and is made from a blend of about are at the helm. They proudly proclaim they’ve planted Garganega in the plains around Soave, well as stone fruit notes, it maintains The Wine Society 70% Garganega with Trebbiano di Soave (also done no plantings – all their vines were put in where it produced a characterless wine. With Inama’s signature vivacity, despite With the 2014 vintage, known as ). Prà says proudly: by their grandfather and great grandfather, Inama’s focus on place, it is not surprising that coming from a riper vintage. Coffele’s vineyards were ‘Monte Grande gives you an idea of what Soave which means that, by their estimate, their its Soaves come only from the Classico area: a Drink 2018-2023 Alc 13% the first in the Classico is all about. Not the watery wines of the past.’ youngest vines are about 50 years old. Soave Classico plus two wines from different zone certified organic. Prà’s unique and Gini vinifies its Soave cru in barrels, areas of the Monte Foscarino cru: Vigneti di I Stefanini, Monte di Fice, Soave This current Castel technique is to cut the canes carrying the most of which are old, and without suphites Foscarino and Vigneto du Lot. Classico 2016 92 Cerino bottling, a cru, Garganega grapes and then leave them on the (they add a small amount just before bottling). N/A UK www.istefanini.it balances subtle stone vine for another three to five weeks. He then They believe indigenous yeasts result in fewer Coffele Reminiscent of Burgundy, this fruit and mineral-like flavours. harvests these partially dried grapes and stuck and better fermentations and, in the One important reason Coffele excels is simply bottling is vastly different from the Lively, with a hint of bitterness on combines them with normally harvested absence of sulphites, this results in more its willingness to experiment and admit when Monte de Toni, despite the close the finish adding to its appeal. Trebbiano di Soave to make his Monte Grande refined wines. They emphasise the importance it has made a mistake. Thirty years ago, proximity of the sites, just 10 Drink 2018-2020 Alc 12.5% ➢ cru. Prà’s wines dazzle at every level. of impeccable hygiene in the cellar to work Giuseppe Coffele added to ➢

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Apstein’s pick of the region (cont’d)

Pieropan, Soave Classico 2017 90 clean and bright, delivering subtle £12-£17.50 widely available via UK stone fruit characters intertwined agent Liberty Wines with mineral-like notes. Tightly Garganega with 15% Trebbiano di wound, it opens beautifully in the Soave, this is floral and lacy yet its glass. Bracing acidity keeps it lively persistence belies its delicacy and throughout a meal. Drink 2018- a hint of white pepper enhances its 2020 Alc 12% appeal. A fresh and vibrant wine that would go well with shellfish or Bolla, Tufaie, Soave other simple seafood. Pieropan’s Classico 2016 87 wines have all been certified £11.99 Bucktrout & Co, organic since the 2015 vintage. Conviviality Group, LA Drinks Drink 2018-2020 Alc 12% Co, Ocado, Venus Wine & Spiri Above: Chiara Coffele manages the family Soave You’re not likely to find estate with her winemaker brother Alberto Inama, Soave Classico 2016 89 this Bolla Soave on £14.99-£16.99 (2015) Connolly’s, supermarket shelves. Garganega – a practice still allowed by the Direct Wine Shipments Tufaie is proprietary regulations – in an effort to bolster its Soave Fermented and aged in stainless name, not a cru, and Classico. But he abandoned the project quickly steel tanks to capture its fruity reminds customers of the because it destroyed the character of the wine. essence, this is quintessential tufa-volcanic soil of Soave Classico. Coffele achieved better results by reducing Soave Classico. Inama selects Shining acidity complements its yields of Garganega, delaying the until grapes from a variety of its apricot character. It shows how far it was fully ripe but not overly so, and blending vineyards in the Classico zone to the entire Soave category has it with Trebbiano di Soave, which, he is quick produce this fresh and lively wine. come. Drink 2018-2023 Alc 12.5% to note, is distinct from Trebbiano Toscano, a Delicate stone fruit character, with grape that is no longer allowed in the blend. vibrancy in the finish to amplify its I Stefanini, Il Selese, Soave 2016 87 Coffele’s Soave Classico, Castel Cerino, appeal. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 12% £8.93 (2015) Oddbins named after the hill of the same name, is From vineyards outside the made entirely from Garganega grown in Prà, Otto, Soave Classico 2016 89 Classico zone, this shows why vineyards with both light (limestone) and £11.95-£14.49 Amps Fine Wines, Field consumers should not rely on the dark soils. Its cru, Ca’ Visco, from a limestone- & Fawcett, James Nicholson, Palmers official DOC/DOCG categorisation. rich area on the same hill, contains 20% to Wine Store, Purple Foot Wine, Raffles, Less concentrated than I Stefanini’s 25% Trebbiano di Soave. Experience has T Wright, Talking Wines, Vin Neuf other Soaves, it nonetheless has an shown that the wines from the limestone are Otto, which takes its name from a appealing zesty raciness and more more refined, elegant and need time to evolve, much-missed pet border collie, character than many Soave whereas those from the darker soils are comprises 80% of Prà’s production. Classicos from less-talented more exuberant and ready sooner. Made entirely from Garganaga, it is producers. Drink 2018 Alc 12.5% Coffele’s Ca’ Visco develops beautifully with five or more years of bottle age, while its Castel Cerino is consistently making distinctive wines at all levels, even a Michael Apstein is an delightful at an early age. notable DOC Soave. The pair prefer to rely only awarded US-based on Garganega, which they vinify and age in wine writer, educator I Stefanini stainless steel tanks, with five or six months of and judge Though founded only in 2003, the lees ageing, giving an exhilarating raciness Tessari family, owners of I Stefanini, with density and length. have been grape-growers since the I Stefanini is one of the few Classico-based 19th century. (The name comes producers to have opted to use the DOCG from a nickname of an ancestor, designation for one of its crus, Monte di Fice, a Stefano, by which the family has vineyard sited directly behind the winery. always been known locally.) Another cru, Monte di Toni – a blend from Francesco Tessari, the their oldest vineyards, though located on the winemaker, works with his father same hill as Monte di Fice – is very different Valentino, who runs the vineyards. on the palate and shows the incredible I Stefanini has quickly become a uniqueness and diversity of Soave even within leading producer in the region, a small area. It’s reminiscent of Burgundy. D

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