©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Canary Islands

Lanzarote p110

La Palma p200

La Gomera p180 p138 p86 p224 p52

Isabella Noble, Damian Harper PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to the

Canary Islands...... 4 LOVETHIEF PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES © Canary Islands’ Top 17. . . . 8 Need to Know...... 18 Accommodation. . . . . 20 Getting Around...... 22 If You Like ...... 24 Month by Month. . . . . 27 P200 Itineraries ...... 29 Activities...... 34 GRAN CANARIA. . . . 52 Caleta de Fuste...... 95 Travel with Children. . . . 40 de Gran Tarajal...... 96 Gran Canaria...... 54 ...... 97 Eat & Drink Like a Local...... 43 Caldera de Bandama ...... 98 & Santa Brígida ...... 65 El Cotillo ...... 101 Regions at a Glance. . . . 48 ...... 65 Lajares...... 103 Agüimes...... 66 Península de Jandía. . . 104 STIAN KLO/LONELY PLANET © Barranco de La Lajita...... 104 Guayadeque ...... 67 Costa Calma...... 104 Temisas...... 68 La Pared...... 105 ...... 68 Playa de Sotavento Arucas...... 69 de Jandía...... 106 Moya...... 70 Morro Jable...... 106 Santa María de Guía. . . . 70 Cofete...... 108 Gáldar...... 71 & Puerto de las Nieves...... 72 ...... 110 PARQUE NACIONAL DE ...... 73 ...... 112 GARAJONAY P186 ...... 74 Costa ...... 116 San Bartolomé Teguise...... 117 de Tirajana...... 76 San Bartolomé...... 119 ALEKSANDAR TODOROVIC/SHUTTERSTOCK© Fataga...... 77 Tiagua ...... 120 Maspalomas...... 77 Parque Nacional Puerto de Mogán...... 81 de Timanfaya ...... 121 Mogán ...... 82 Arrieta ...... 123 Malpaís de la Corona. . . . 124 FUERTEVENTURA. . 86 Órzola...... 125 Mirador del Río...... 125 . . . . 89 Haría...... 125 ...... 91 La Caleta de . . . . 126 Antigua...... 93 Isla Graciosa...... 127 LA LAGUNA, TENERIFE P149 Pájara...... 94 . . . . 129 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Yaiza...... 132 Alajeró & Around. . . . . 192 The Canary El Golfo...... 133 El Cercado...... 193 Islands Today ...... 242 ...... 134 ...... 193 History...... 244 Punta del Papagayo. . . . 135 Canarian Arts LA PALMA...... 200 & Culture...... 251 TENERIFE ...... 138 Santa Cruz Life on a Volcano. . . . 256 ...... 202 de Tenerife...... 139 ...... 210 La Laguna...... 149 Parque Ecológico SURVIVAL San Andrés...... 152 de Belmaco...... 211 GUIDE Anaga Mountains. . . . . 153 Fuencaliente...... 211 . . . . . 153 Los Cancajos...... 213 Directory A–Z...... 262 ...... 158 El Paso...... 214 ...... 161 Parque Nacional de la Transport...... 268 Caldera de Taburiente. . . 215 Parque Nacional Language...... 272 del Teide...... 162 . . . 218 Index...... 281 Vilaflor...... 165 Puerto Naos ...... 218 Punta de Teno...... 166 San Andrés...... 220 Map Legend...... 287 . . . . . 166 Los Tiles...... 221 Masca...... 166 Barlovento...... 221 Los Gigantes & Parque Cultural Puerto de Santiago. . . . 167 La Zarza...... 221 , Playa de las Américas EL HIERRO...... 224 & Costa ...... 168 Valverde...... 227 Las Galletas ...... 175 Echedo...... 228 El Médano...... 175 El Mocanal...... 229 Candelaria...... 176 Mirador de la Peña. . . . . 229 Güímar...... 177 Tamaduste & La Caleta. . . . 229 Timijiraque & SPECIAL . . . . 180 Las Playas...... 230 FEATURES San Sebastián San Andrés...... 230 Road Trip: de la Gomera...... 183 Isora...... 231 Agüimes to Mogán. . . . 84 Parque Nacional El Pinar...... 232 Lanzarote: de Garajonay...... 186 La Restinga...... 232 Lazy Days ...... 130 ...... 187 El Golfo ...... 233 Southwest Coast & El Cedro...... 189 Tigaday ...... 233 Wine Region ...... 136 ...... 189 La Frontera...... 235 Hiking on Vallehermoso ...... 190 Las Puntas...... 236 La Gomera...... 196 Alojera...... 190 Los Llanillos Hiking on La Palma. . . 222 Los Órganos ...... 190 & Sabinosa ...... 237 Hiking on El Hierro . . . 238 Playa Santiago...... 191 La Dehesa ...... 240 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 29

Itineraries

É •#Las Palmas de •# É Gran Canaria Puerto de •# las Nieves Arucas

Gran Canaria Puerto de •# la Aldea •#Tejeda

É Barranco de Guayadeque •#

•# Agüimes

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Puerto de Mogán •# AT L A N T I C O C E A N É •# Maspalomas

1 WEEK The Best of Gran Canaria

A week on Gran Canaria gives you enough time to explore the capital’s museums and restaurants, dine on seafood along the coast, admire the mountains and even squeeze in some beach time. Start in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria with a gentle stroll on Playa de las Canteras or a dip in the ultracalm ocean – perfect for snorkelling. Spend the second day wan- dering the cobbles of historic Vegueta with its stellar museums. Day three head to the lovely town of Arucas before hitting the north coast to sample seafood in Puerto de las Nieves. Day four tackle the spectacular winding west-coast road, grabbing lunch in quiet Puerto de la Aldea, then continue the magnificent drive to pretty Puerto de Mogán, with its Mediterranean-style yachting harbour. Day five, swing southeast to the shimmering sands of for a stroll or a swim, then take the GC60 north to Tejeda for lunch with a view. Spend day six on a mountain hike or drive, drinking in the jaw- dropping scenery. To finish, meander your way down to Agüimes with its lovely pastel- painted buildings and historic charm, then veer back inland to the lush Barranco de Guayadeque for lunch in a cave. DOMINIC DÄHNCKE/GETTY IMAGES © ), ), La 67 215 Top: Parque Nacional Nacional Parque Top: de Caldera la de (p Taburiente Palma in Dining Bottom: de Barranco the (p Guayadeque Canaria Gran

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Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 30 31

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10 Tenerife & 1 La Gomera & DAYS La Palma WEEK El Hierro

It’s all perfectly preserved architecture and Simple pleasures reign on these two small, impressive mountain backdrops on this western islands: traditional cuisine, forest island-hopping adventure. hikes, ocean swims and plenty of winding On Tenerife, stay two nights in Puerto roads. de la Cruz, enjoying the shops, bars and Spend your first day on La Gomera ex- beaches. Day three visit La Orotava, with ploring the historical backstreets in San its grand 17th-century mansions. Still in his- Sebastián de la Gomera. The next day torical mode, continue on to La Laguna’s recover from all that urban exhaustion with traditional quarter for an overnight stay. a dip and lunch at Playa Santiago. Day Next day, retrace your steps to contrasting three head to the verdant north, stopping Garachico and its simple fisher’s cottages. at traditional Hermigua and sparkling Day five head to extraordinary El Teide for volcanic Playa de la Caleta. Next day a day of walking and gawping. Day six high- continue south for a hike through the tail it to Los Cristianos and catch the daily Parque Nacional de Garajonay’s ethereal ferry to La Palma. laurisilva forest. Drive down the stunning Spend a couple of nights in the capital Valle Gran Rey gorge until it reaches the Santa Cruz de la Palma, exploring the sea. Stay overnight before hopping over to old town, kicking back on the beach and El Hierro, via Tenerife, by ferry or plane. taking a pilgrimage to the Santuario de Check out the low-key capital of Val- la Virgen de las Nieves. Continue north to verde, before heading south to majestic explore the hilly, cobbled streets of San El Golfo and perhapsg hiking the cliff- Andrés. Day eight visit the lush rainforest hugging Camino de Jinama. Dine on of Los Tiles before cooling off at the salt- superb Canarian food in down-to-earth water pools at Charco Azul. Day nine hike La Frontera and stay overnight. Next day through the stunning Parque Nacional head for the natural pools at La Maceta, de la Caldera de Taburiente. Continue before seeking out the lush pines of El south to lively Puerto Naos before visiting Pinar and the offshore scuba diving at La the handicraft museum at Villa de Mazo. Restinga. 32 OffMissing the B image:eate n../../../_images/06-otbt-cni7. Trac

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27°N 15°W 14°W PLAYA DE CETE ETEETA P ED GA CAAA C T •# ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 279

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS Damian Harper Many thanks to Isabella Noble for all her Many thanks to the travellers who used support and good humour, gratitude to the the last edition and wrote to us with help- ever-helpful Li Jiani and Arman, cheers also ful hints, useful advice and interesting to Juan de la Vega, Damien, Carlos Brito, Olga anecdotes: Aresté, Ellen, Ling, Michele, Tim and Emma and Andrew Lelechenko, Charles Citroen, Chris- everyone else along the way who made this trip tian Naenny, David Muir, David Smallwood, such a fascinating journey of discovery.

Gordon Parfitt , Jan Drenth, Jonathan O’

Mahony, Joshua Lumsden , Kim Dorin , Lesley Bradnam, Louis Gempp, Marilú Paz, Neil ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Milner, Peter Rivers, Phillipa Tinant Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated AUTHOR THANKS World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Isabella Noble Sciences, 11, 1633–44. A huge gracias to everyone who made this Cover photograph: Dragon tree and Teide, Canarias update such a joy to work on. In Lan- Cameris/Getty Images ©. zarote, thanks to Tila, Michelle, Richard, Caro- line, María, Gaspare, José and team, Faye, An- drew and all the other helpful conejeros. For La Gomera, thanks to Barbara, Christa, Thomas, Sandra, Adelaida, Isabel and, especially, Papi (for the great hikes). In El Hierro, muchísimas gracias to Idaira, Eva, Raico, Ida Inés, Carmelo and the Turismo El Hierro team. Finally, special thanks to my brilliant co-writer Damian Harper. 280 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Destination Editor Assisting Editors THIS BOOK Tom Stainer Janet Austin, Daniel Bolger, This 7th edition of Lonely Plan- Senior Product Editors Nigel Chin, Gabrielle Innes, et’s Canary Islands guidebook Genna Patterson, Jessica Ryan Kate James, Lou McGregor, was researched and written Fergus O’Shea, Gabrielle Product Editor by Isabella Noble and Damian Stefanos, Sam Wheeler Amy Lynch Harper. The previous edition Cover Researcher Regional Senior was researched and written Naomi Parker by Lucy Corne and Josephine Cartographer Thanks to Quintero. This guidebook was Anthony Phelan Gwen Cotter, Sandie Kestell, produced by the following: Book Designer Claire Rourke, Angela Tinson Jessica Rose ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 281

Index

A area codes 19 Playa de Triana 79 C accessible travel 262 Arrecife 112-16, 113 Playa del Castillo 95 Cala de Tacorón 233 accommodation 20-1 Arrieta 123-4 Playa del Matorral 106-7 Caldera de Bandama 65 language 272-3 art 25 Playa del Papagayo 135 Caldera de Taburiente 11, activities 27-8, 34-9, see Artenara 14, 73-4, 14 Playa del Pozo 89 215-17, 10, 30 also individual activities arts 251-3 Playa del Reducto 114 Caleta de Fuste 95-6 Agaete 72-3 Arucas 69-70 Playa del Risco 126 camping 20 Agüimes 66-7 astronomy 68, 92, 150, 164, Playa del Verodal 240 Canarian pines 218 Agulo 189-90 217, 242-3 Playa Las Galletas 175 canaries 257 air travel ATMs 265 Playa Martiánez 156 Candelaria 176-7 to/from Canary Islands Playa Mujeres 135 casas rurales 20 268 Playa Puerto Naos 219 car travel 22-3, 270-1, see within Canary Islands B also road trips, scenic Barlovento 221 Playa Quemada 129 23, 269 drives Barranco de Guayadeque 16, Playa San Sebastián 184 Ajuy 96 car hire 22-3, 271 67, 16, 30 Playa Santiago 191 Alajeró 192-3 language 276 bathrooms 266-7 Playas Caletones 125 Aldea de San Nicolás 72, 83 road rules 23, 271 beaches 24, 41 Tenerife 138, 173 Alojera 190 Carnaval 9, 27, 59, 145, El Charco Verde 219 Valle Gran Rey 194 9 altitude sickness 264 castles & palaces El Médano 175-6 beer 46 amusement parks, Castillo de la Virgen 205 Fuencaliente 212 Betancuria 91-2 see theme parks Castillo de San Felipe 156 Isla Graciosa 128 bicycle travel, see cycling Anaga Mountains 153, 21, Castillo de San Gabriel La Caleta de Famara 126 birdwatching 25, 178-9 114 La Palma 200 Isla de Lobos 102 animals 257-8 Castillo de San Miguel 161 Lanzarote 110, 130 La Palma 212 Antigua 93-4 Castillo de Santa Bárbara boat travel apartments 20 Maspalomas 78 118 to/from Canary Islands archaeological sites 26 Parque Natural de Castillo de Santa Catalina 268-9 Corralejo 99 206 Cenobio de Valerón 71, 25 within Canary Islands 22, Playa Blanca 134, 131 Castillo de Tostón 102 Cuatro Puertas 66 23, 269-70 Playa de Alojera 190 cathedrals, see churches & Cueva Pintada Museum & boat trips 39 Playa de Carpinteras 79 cathedrals Archaeological Park 71 Caleta de Fuste 96 Playa de Cofete 108-9 caves Fortaleza de Ansite 74 Costa Adeje 169 Playa de Janubio 133 Cueva Bermejas 67 Parque Arqueológico de El Los Gigantes 168 Tendal 220 Playa de la Arena 167 Cueva de los Verdes Puerto de Los Cristianos Playa de la Caleta 188 124-5, 42 Parque Cultural de El 169 Julan 232 Playa de la Cantería 125 Jameos del Agua 124 Valle Gran Rey 194 Parque Cultural La Zarza Playa de la Garita 123 cell phones 18, 266 booking services 21 221 Playa de las Teresitas 152, chapels Parque Ecológico de books 242 178-9 hiking 36, 163 Ermita de Guará 193 Belmaco 211 Playa de Melenara 66 history 248-50 Ermita de la Virgen de Poblado de La Playa de Montaña la Concepción de la natural history 257, 259 Atalayita 99 Arenas 79 Bonanza 214 budget 19, 20, 46 architecture 25, 251-2 Playa de Santa Cruz de La Ermita de la Virgen de los Palma 204 bus travel 23, 270 Dolores 177 Playa de Sotavento de business hours 19, 265 Ermita de Nuestra Señora Map Pages 000 Jandía 106 de la Luz 205 Photo Pages 000 282 Ermita de Nuestra Iglesia de Nuestra language 59, 145, 156, E Señora de los Reyes Señora de la 264 Echedo 228-9 240 Concepción (La crafts 253 economy 242, 243 Ermita de San José 203 Laguna) 150 credit cards 265 El Cedro 189 Ermita de San Pedro de Iglesia de Nuestra Cruz de Tejeda 75-6 El Cercado 193 Alcántara 94 Señora de la Concepción (Santa culture 253-5 El Cotillo 101-3 INDEX INDEX Ermita de San Sebastián Cumbre Vieja 257 204 Cruz de Tenerife) 144 El Golfo (El Hierro) 233-40 currency 18 Ermita del Santo 194 Iglesia de Nuestra El Golfo (Lanzarote) 133-4 Señora de la customs regulations 263 cheese 26, 44-5, 93 El Hierro 13, 50, 224-40, C Concepción (Valverde) cycling 23, 34, 39, 269 225, 13, 38 F children, travel with 40-2-  227 Caleta de Fuste 96 accommodation 235  El Hierro 229 Iglesia de Nuestra Corralejo 99, 100 children, travel with 229 Gran Canaria 68 Señora de la Peña de language 276 La Gomera 183 Francia 155-6 climate 224 Los Llanos de Aridane Iglesia de Nuestra food 224, 231 La Palma 219 218 Señora de Regla 95 highlights 225 Lanzarote 119 Maspalomas 79 Iglesia de San Andrés 220 hiking 238-9, 238 Tenerife 162 Morro Jable 107 Chillida, Eduardo 98 Iglesia de San Francisco itineraries 31, 227, 31 (Santa Cruz de la Playa Santiago 192 Chirino, Martín 252 history 226 Palma) 203 Puerto Naos 219 churches & cathedrals travel to/from 226 Iglesia de San Francisco Valle Gran Rey 194 247, see also chapels travel within 226 (Telde) 65 Basílica de Nuestra wineries 236 Iglesia de San Ginés 114 Señora de Candelaria D El Médano 175-6 Iglesia de San Juan 176-7 disabilities, travellers Bautista 69-70 El Mocanal 229 Basílica de San Juan with 262 El Paso 214-15 Bautista 65 Iglesia de San Matías 74 diving & snorkelling 34, El Pinar 232 Basílica Nuestra Señora Iglesia de San Sebastián 38-9 66 El Remo 219 del Pino 68-9 Caleta de Fuste 95 Iglesia de Santa Ana 161 El Teide 9, 162-5, 256-7, 8-9 Catedral (La Laguna) 150 Candelaria 177 Iglesia de Santa María electricity 263 Catedral de Santa Ana Corralejo 100 92 embassies 263 56-7 Costa Adeje 169 Iglesia de Santo emergencies 19 Convento de Santo Costa Calma 105 Domingo 188 Domingo 204-5 language 275 117 Ermita de Nuestra Iglesia del Salvador environmental issues 237, Isla Graciosa 128 Señora de Lourdes 189 (Alajeró) 193 243, 259-60 La Restinga 232-3 Ermita de San Iglesia del Salvador etiquette 19 (Santa Cruz de la Fernando 81 Las Galletas 175 events, see festivals & Palma) 203 Ermita de San Sebastián Las Palmas de Gran events Iglesia y ex-convento de 184-5 Canaria 59 exchange rates 19 San Agustín 150 Ermita Nuestra Señora Los Cancajos 213 de las Nieves 72 Santuario de la Cuevita Los Gigantes 167 74, Iglesia de la Candelaria 14 Maspalomas 78 F 235 Santuario de la Virgen de Morro Jable 107 Faro de la Entallada 97 las Nieves 205-6 Iglesia de la Concepción Playa Blanca 134 Fataga 77 Santuario del Cristo 150 159-60 Puerto de Mogán 81 Femés 132 Templo de San Blas 210 Iglesia de la Encarnación Puerto del Carmen 129 ferry travel 22, 23, 268-9 205 cinema 242 Puerto Naos 219 festivals & events 27-8 Iglesia de la Virgen de la climate 18, 27-8 de la Virgen de dolphin-watching 17, 39, 17 Asunción 184 Cofete 108-9 Guadalupe 185 Costa Adeje 169 Iglesia de Nuestra coffee 45, 73 Bajada de la Virgen de Fuertventura 96 Señora de Antigua 93 Columbus, Christopher los Reyes 240 Gran Canaria 68 Iglesia de Nuestra 184, 248-50 Carnaval 9, 27, 59, 145, 9 Señora de consulates 263 Los Cristianos 169 Corpus Christi 150, 160 Guadalupe 118 Corralejo 98-101 Los Gigantes 168 Día de San Ginés 115 Iglesia de Nuestra Valle Gran Rey 194 Costa Adeje 168-75, Festival de Música de Señora de la 174 dragon trees 259 Canarias 27 Concepción (Agaete) Costa Calma 104-5 drinks 45-6 72 Costa Teguise 116-17 Festival Internacional de language 273-5 costs 19, 20, 46 Música de Canarias driving, see car travel 145 courses Fiesta de la Rama 72-3 Map Pages 000 diving & snorkelling 59 Photo Pages 000 283 Fiesta de la Virgen del markets 14, 67, 14 Costa Adeje 169 beaches 200 Pino 69 travel to/from 54 Maspalomas 79 children, travel with Fiesta de la Virgen del travel within 54 hostales 20 40, 219 Rosario 90 Gran Tarajal 96-7 hostels 20 climate 200 Fiesta de los Cacharros 245-50, 252 hotels 20 festivals & events 208 156-7 123, 5 food 200, 216

Fiesta de Nuestra Señora highlights 201 INDEX de las Nieves 206-7 Güímar 177 I hiking 35, 222-3, 222 Fiesta de San Juan 61 insurance 264 history 202 Fiestas de la Concepción health 263

H  F-L itineraries 31, 203, 31 228 Haría 125-6 vehicle 271 travel to/from 202, 209 Gay Pride 28 health 263-4 internet access 264 travel within 202 International Jazz heat exhaustion 264 internet resources 19, 21 La Pared 105-6 Festival 28 Hermigua 187-8 Isla de Lobos 102 International Kite La Restinga 232-3 hiking 24-5, 34-6 Isla Graciosa 17, 127-8, Festival 100 Lajares 103-4 Anaga Mountains 153, 17, 130 La Palma 208 language 18, 272-6 178-9 Isora 231 Romería de San Benito language courses 59, 145, Barranco de Masca 166 itineraries 29-33, 29, 31, Abad 150 156, 264 Barranco del Infierno 32-3 film 242 169 Lanzarote 49, 110-37, 111, food 43-7 , , Corralejo 100 5 15 130-1 language 273-5 accommodation 124 Costa Teguise 117 K Fuencaliente 211-13 kayaking beaches 110, 130 Dehesa de Majona 185 Fuerteventura 11, 49, 86- Corralejo 99 children, travel with El Hierro 35-6, 238-9, 109, 87 Maspalomas 78 40, 119 238 accommodation 94 kitesurfing 37-8 climate 110 Fuerteventura 36 activities 91 El Médano 176 food 110, 127, 130 Gran Canaria 36 La Caleta de Famara highlights 111 beaches 86, 11 La Gomera 35, 180, 126-7 history 112 children, travel with 196-7, 196 40, 88 Lajares 104 markets 134 La Palma 35, 222-3, 222 climate 86, 105 travel to/from 112 Lanzarote 36 cycling 91 travel within 112 Las Puntas 236 L food 86, 93 Los Tiles 221 La Atalaya 65 wineries 14, 120-1, 15 highlights 87 Maspalomas 77 La Caleta 229-30 Las Galletas 175 history 88 northern Lanzarote 123 La Caleta de Famara Las Palmas de Gran travel to/from 88 Canaria 54-65, 56, 60 Pared de Agulo 190 126-7, 131 travel within 89 accommodation 58 Parque Nacional de La Dehesa 240 activities 59 Garajonay 13, 186-7, 2, La Frontera 235-6 courses 59 G 13, 198 La Gomera 50, 180-97, 181, Gáldar 71-2 Parque Nacional de la 198-9 drinking 62-3 galleries, see museums & Caldera de Taburiente accommodation 189 entertainment 63 galleries 11, 215-17, 10, 30 children, travel with 183 festivals & events 59-61 Garachico 161-2 Parque Nacional de climate 180 food 61-2 gardens, see parks & Timanfaya 16, 122, 16 food 180, 190 history 55 gardens Parque Nacional del highlights 181 markets 63 gay travellers 265 Teide 19, 162-5, 8-9, hiking 180, 196-7 nightlife 62-3 Gran Canaria 80 260 history 182 shopping 63-4 Parque Rural de Teno geology 256-7 itineraries 31, 182, sights 55-9 166-7 31 golf 39 travel to/from 182 tourist information 64 Playa Blanca 134 Fuerteventura 91 travel within 182-3 travel to/from 64 Playa Santiago 192 Gran Canaria 11, 48, 52-85, travel within 64-5 Ruta de los Volcanes 214 La Laguna 12, 149-52, 12 53, 10 Las Puntas 236-7 Santa Cruz de la Palma La Lajita 104 beaches 52 206 La Matilla 97 legal matters 264-5 children, travel with Tenerife 34 La Oliva 97-8 LGBT+ travellers 265 40, 68 Valle Gran Rey 194 La Orotava 158-61, 159 Gran Canaria 80 climate 52 history 25-6, 244-50 La Palma 50, 200-23, 201, lizards 234, 258 food 52, 78 hitching 271 2, 35 Los Canarios 213 highlights 53 holidays 265-6 accommodation 215 Los Cancajos 213-14 history 54 horse riding activities 210 Los Cristianos 168-75, 172 itineraries 29, 84-5, 29 Los Gigantes 167-8 284 Los Llanillos 237, 240 money 18, 19, 265 Convento de Santa Museo Internacional de Los Llanos de Aridane 218 Monumento Natural Los Clara 150 Arte Contemporáneo Los Molinos 97 Ajaches 135 Ecomuseo de Guinea & 113-14 Los Órganos 190-1 Morales, Tomás 70 Lagartario 236 Museo León y Castillo 66 Los Tiles 221 Morro Jable 106-7 Ecomuseo la Alcogida 97 Museo Naval 205 motorcycle travel, see car Escuela Insular de Museum of the Basílica

INDEX INDEX travel Artesanía 210 Nuestra Señora del M mountains, see also Fundación César Pino 69 Malpaís de la Corona 124-5 volcanoes Manrique 114 Parque Etnográfico Los Manrique, César 12, 114, Anaga Mountains 153, Fundación Cristino de Telares 188 L-P 116, 125, 251, 12 21, 25, 178-9 Vera 150 San Martín Centro de Cultura maps 35 Montaña Blanca 165 Los Molinos Centro de Interpretación 94 Contemporánea 57 markets Mount Tindaya 98 Municipal Museum 70 Tenerife Espacio de las El Paso 214 Pico del Teide 162-3 Museo Agrícola El Patio Artes (TEA) 144 Gran Canaria 14, 67, 14 Pico Viejo 163-4 120 music 253, 254 Haría 125 Pozo de las Nieves 76 Museo Arqueológico La Oliva 97 movies 242 (Puerto de la Cruz) Lanzarote 134 Moya 70 155 N national parks & reserves Las Palmas de Gran multiculturalism 255 Museo Arqueológico de Canaria 63 museums & galleries Betancuria 92 Parque Nacional de Garajonay 13, 186-7, 2, Puerto del Rosario 90 CAAM San Antonio Museo Arqueológico de , Abad 57 La Gomera 184 13 198 Parque Nacional de la 144 Casa de Colón 184 Museo Arqueológico de Caldera de Taburiente Teguise 118 Casa de las Quintera 227 Lanzarote 114 11, 215-17, 10, 30 Masca 166-7 Museo Canario 57 Casa de los Coroneles Parque Nacional de Maspalomas 77-81 97-8 Museo Casa Roja 210 Timanfaya 16, 121-2, measures 262 Casa de los Patronos de Museo de Arte 16 la Virgen 69 Contemporáneo 155 miradors Parque Nacional del Cruz de San Antonio 82 Casa del Timple 118 Museo de Artesanía Teide 9, 162-5, 8-9, Iberoamericana 160 Degollada de la Yegua 77 Casa Museo Antonio 260 Fuente de los Padrón 71 Museo de Bellas Artes Parque Rural de Teno Azulejos 83 Casa-Museo César 144 166-7 Mirador Astronómico de Manrique 125, 12 Museo de Historia de newspapers 262 Sicasumbre 92 Casa-Museo de Colón Agüimes 66 Mirador de Abrante 189- 55-6 Museo de Historia de 90, 198 Casa-Museo del Arrecife 114 O Mirador de Isora 231 Campesino 119 Museo de la Ciencia y el observatories 68, 164, 217 Cosmos 150 Mirador de Jinama 231 Casa Museo del Vino 65 opening hours 19, 265 Museo de la Historia de Mirador de la Atalaya 74 Casa-Museo de Pérez Órzola 125 Tenerife 149-50 Mirador de la Llanía Galdós 58 Museo de la Naturaleza y 230-1 Casa Museo Unamuno 89 el Hombre 143-4 P Mirador de la Peña 229 Padrón, Antonio 71 Casa Santa María 92 Museo de la Pesca Mirador de Las Playas Tradicional 102 painting 252-3 232 Centro Alfarero de Museo de la Piratería 118 Pájara 94-5 Mirador de Morro Candelaria 177 Museo de la Sal 95 palaces, see castles & Velosa 93 Centro Atlántico de Arte Museo de la Seda 214 palaces Mirador de Unamuno 74 Moderno 57 Museo de las paradores 20 Mirador Degollada de la Centro de Arte Canario - Tradiciones 75 paragliding 210, 219, 234 Cruz Grande 76 Casa Mané 98 Museo del Queso parks & gardens, see Mirador del Río 125 Centro de Interpretación de La Bajada 205 Majorero 93 also national parks & Mirador Roque de Centro de Interpretación Museo del Tanit 119 reserves Agando 191, 199 de la Reserva de la Museo Diocesano de Centro de Plantas Mirador Topo de las Biosfera 231 Arte Sacro 56-7 Medicinales 75 Barandas 221 Centro de Interpretación Museo Elder de la Huerto de las Flores 72 mobile phones 18, 266 del Casco Histórico 66 Ciencia y la Tecnología Jardín Botánico (Puerto Mogán 82-3 Centro de Interpretación 59 de la Cruz) 156 del Geoparque 232 Museo Etnográfico Jardín Botánico Canario Centro de Interpretación Casas Cuevas 74 Viera y Clavijo 59 Las Loceras 193 Map Pages 000 Museo Etnográfico de La Jardín de Cactus 123, 5 Cerámica el Molino 210 Gomera 188 Photo Pages 000 Jardín de la Marquesa 70 Museo Insular 203 285 Jardínes del Marquesado Presa de las Cuevas de las sights 203-6 Teguise 117-19 de la Quinta Roja Niñas 82 tourist information 209 Tejeda 74-5 158-9, 178 public holidays 265-6 travel to/from 209 Telde 65-6 Palmetum 145 Puerto de la Cruz 153-8, travel within 209 telephone services 18, 266 Parque de la Puerta de 154 Santa Cruz de Tenerife 139, Temisas 68 Tierra 161 Puerto de la Peña 96 142-9, 142 Tenerife 49, 138-77, 140-1,

Parque Municipal de Aru- INDEX Puerto de las Nieves 72-3 activities 143-5 178-9 cas de las Flores 70 Puerto de Mogán 81-2 courses 145 accommodation 165 Parque San Telmo 58 Puerto de Santiago 167-8 drinking 147-8 activities 175 Risco Belle Aquatic Puerto del Carmen 129-32  P-V Gardens 156 entertainment 148 beaches 138, 173 Puerto del Rosario 89-91 Taurito 68 festivals & events 145 children, travel with 162 Puerto Naos 218-20 Parque Cultural La Zarza food 145-7 climate 138 221 Punta de Jandía 107-8 history 143 food 138, 152, 153 Parque Ecológico de Punta de Teno 166 nightlife 147-8 highlights 140-1 Belmaco 211 Punta del Papagayo 135 shopping 148 history 139 Parque Nacional de sights 143-5 itineraries 31, 31 Garajonay 13, 186-7, 2, R tourist information 148 maps 163 13, 198 radio 262 travel to/from 148-9 travel to/from 139 Parque Nacional de la religion 255 travel within 149 travel within 139 Caldera de Taburiente reserves, see national walking tour 146, 146 Teror 68-9 11, 215-17, 10, 30 parks & reserves Santa María de Guía 70-1 Tetir 97 Parque Nacional de rip tides 266 Santiago del Teide 166 thalassotherapy 76, 95 Timanfaya 16, 121-2, 16 road rules 23, 271 scenic drives, see also Parque Nacional del Teide theme parks 41 road trips, see also scenic road trips 9, 162-5, 8-9, 260 Acua Water Park 99 drives Fuerteventura 95 passports 268 Aqualand 68 Agüimes to Mogán 84-5, Gran Canaria 79 Península de Jandía 95, Mundo Aborigen 79 84-5 104-9 La Palma 211, 212 Oasis Park 104 Lanzarote 136-7, pensiones 20 136-7 Lanzarote 132 Siam Park 169 Romería de San Roque Pico del Teide 162-3 Tenerife 167 Tiagua 120 161-2 Pico Viejo 163-4 sculpture 252-3 Tigaday 233-5 Roque Bentayga 76 pine trees 218 Silbo 191 time 266 Roque Nublo 76 planning smoking 262 Timijiraque 230 Roques de 177 accommodation 20-1 snorkelling, see diving & tipping 265 rum 46, 77 snorkelling budgeting 19, 20, 46 toilets 266-7 Ruta de los Volcanes 122 sport 254-5 calendar of events 27-8 tourism 242 stargazing 68, 92, 150, 164, Canary Islands basics tourist information 267 217, 242-3 18-19 S travel to/from the Canary surfing 34, 37 Canary Islands’ regions Sabinosa 237, 240 Islands 268-9 Corralejo 99 48-50 safe travel 266 travel within Canary El Cotillo 103 children, travel with 40-2 San Andrés (El Hierro) 230-1 Islands 22-3, 269-71 La Caleta de Famara internet resources 19 San Andrés (La Palma) trekking, see hiking 126-7, 131 itineraries 29-33, 29, 220-1 turtles 106 La Pared 105 31, 32-3 San Andrés (Tenerife) 152 TV 262 Las Palmas de Gran travel seasons 18, 27-8 San Bartolomé 119-20 Canaria 59 plants 258 San Bartolomé de Tirajana 76-7 Maspalomas 78 V Playa Blanca 134-5, 131 vaccinations 263 San Nicolás de Tolentino 72 Morro Jable 107 Playa de las Américas Valle de Santa Inés 93 San Sebastián de la Playa Blanca 134 168-75, 170 Valle Gran Rey 193-5 Gomera 183-6, 198 Playa de las Américas Playa de Sotavento de 169-70 Vallehermoso 190 Jandía 106 Santa Brígida 65 Puerto del Carmen 129 Valverde 227-8 Playa Santiago 191-2 Santa Cruz de la Palma swimming 38, 266 Vega de Río Palmas 93 politics 243, 250 202-9, 204 Puerto del la Cruz 156 Vilaflor 165-6 population 243 drinking 208 Santa Cruz de Tenerife Villa de Mazo 210-11 Porís de Abona 177 entertainment 208 145 Villa Winter 108 postal services 265 festivals & events 206-7 villas 20 Pozo de las Calcosas 229 food 207-8 visas 18, 267 Pozo de las Nieves 76 history 202 T Tamaduste 229-30 volcanoes 256-7, see Pozo Izquierdo 81, 37 nightlife 208 taxes 268 also mountains Pozo Negro 99 shopping 209 286 Caldera de Bandama 65 Costa Adeje 169 Bodega Elysar 232 women travellers 267 Cumbre Vieja 257 Fuerteventura 96 Bodega La Geria 120, 15 work 267 El Teide 9, 162-5, 256-7, Los Cristianos 169 Bodega Las Tirajanas 76 8-9 Los Gigantes 168 Bodega Los Bermejos Volcán San Antonio 212 121 Y Valle Gran Rey 194 132-3 Volcán Teneguía 212 whistling 191 Bodega Rubicón 120

INDEX INDEX wi-fi 264 Bodega Soterana 237 wildlife 257-8 Bodega Uwe Urbach 236 Z W zoos walking, see hiking windsurfing 34, 37-8 Bodegas Teneguía 212 V-Z Corralejo 99, 100 Bodegas Vega de Yuco Camel Safari Park La water 264 Baranda 79 Costa Calma 105 121 water sports 15, 26, 37-9, Cocodrilo Park 68 41, see also individual Costa Teguise 117 Consejo Regulador Denominación de Maroparque 206 activities Playa de Sotavento de Origen El Hierro 235 weather 18, 27-8 Jandía 106 El Grifo 120-1 websites 19, 21 Pozo Izquierdo 81, 37 El Hierro 236 weights 262 wine 26, 46 La Palma 209 whale-watching 17, 39, Lanzarote 14, 120-1, 15 Lanzarote 120-1 257-8 wineries

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 287

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Isabella Noble Lanzarote, El Hierro, La Gomera, Canary Islands Plan Chapters English- Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella has been wandering the globe since her first round-the-world trip as a one-year-old. Having grown up in a whitewashed Andalucian village, she is a specialist travel journalist, but also writes extensively about India, Thailand, the UK and beyond for Lonely Planet, the Daily Telegraph and others. Isabella has co-written Lonely Planet guides to Spain and Andalucía, and is a Daily Telegraph Spain expert. She has also contributed to Lonely Planet India, South India, Thailand, Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and Great Britain, and authored Pocket Phuket. Find Isabella on Twitter and Insta- gram (@isabellamnoble).

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