The South Leon County Heritage Trail

AIN ROADS & M CROSS ROADS * * * * * This publication has been prepared under the auspices of the John G. Riley Center/Museum for African American History & Culture, Tallahassee, Florida – Althemese Barnes, Executive Director. Funding was obtained through a Leon County Board of Commissioners, Certified, Local Government Grant from the Bureau of Historic Preservation, Division of Historical Resources, Florida Department of State. However, the contents and opinions do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of Leon County or the Florida Department of State, nor does the mention of trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation by Leon County or the Florida Department of State.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise for any other purpose without prior written permission from the John G. Riley Center/Museum, the Florida Department of State and Leon County government.

We gratefully acknowledge the support and assistance of Julianne Hare - Rabbit’s Den Productions (author), Don Lanham - Leon County, Dr. Anthony Dixon – Florida A&M University. Ross Morrell - Ross Morrell & Associates, and Woodville historian, Pete Gerrell.

COVER PHOTO – Lewis Ave., Woodville, FL circa 1910. Courtesy of the Florida State Archives Photographic Collection.

INSIDE COVER PHOTO - An unidentified couple paddled a canoe on Lake Bradford in the 1970s. Courtesy of the Florida State Archives Photographic Collection – image donated by the Florida Department of Commerce. Tallahassee Legend S. Monroe St. N Paul Dirac Dr. Levy Ave. Tour 1 Tour 2 19 Grassy

20 S. Adams St. Tour 3 Lake 21 18 Rd. Lake Bradford Rankin Rd. 22 Orange Ave. PLEASE DO NOT Lake Bradford Rd. 24 Gaile Ave. TRESPASS ON Campbell 23 Lake Bradford PRIVATE PROPERTY Pond Park Capital Circle S.W.

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2 Tram Rd. Lake Capital Circle S.E. Munson 3 12 Munson Landing Rd. 13 Six Mile Pond

Woodville Hwy.

4 Apalachicola National

Forest Crawfordville Rd. Old Woodville Rd.

17 5 The Turpentine Trail... 14 Oak Ridge Rd. 16 11 Forbes Purchase Line Woodville Hwy. 6 7 15 Henry Jones Rd. Lawhon Rd. 8 9 Wakulla The Way to the Ol’ Swimming Springs Rd. Woodville Hole...Crawfordville Road Natural Bridge Rd.

From the Past to the Future... 10 WAKULLA COUNTY Lake Bradford Introduction

Of all the Leon County Heritage Trail tours, this one offers the most eclectic array of activities and the broadest view of our collective history. In southern Leon County, you can travel some of the oldest Indian trails and trade routes and get a glimpse of what life was like here when the Spanish explorers colonized our unique peninsula. Drive through old timberlands, learn about geology, and visit a Civil War Battlefield. Not everything is “old” here. The southern portion of the county is also the site of some of America’s most cutting-edge research facilities.

There is something to suit every interest and new discoveries around every corner.

This booklet describes three tours. Each route will take approximately from one to three hours to travel – depending on how many stops you choose to make and how long you linger to explore. Each journey connects to another and we encourage you to discover them all.

1 Tour Information

Sites of interest are each numbered and identified by one of four symbols. Written directions appear throughout the text and a map is included at the end of this publication. A supplement of related oral histories may be obtained from the John G. Riley Center/Museum for African American History & Culture at 419 East Jefferson Street, Tallahassee, FL or by calling 850-681-7881. Visit their web site at www.rileymuseum.org.

Drive Through: Leon County neighborhoods were often named after the plantations that dotted the area during ante bellum times. After the Civil War, newly formed communities adopted names that honored centers of worship or well-known property owners. Residents rarely said they came from Tallahassee or Leon County – they said they came from places like Belair, Four Points, Lake Bradford and Woodville. These “neighborhoods” covered large geographical areas whose borders are not easily defined. Some are included here because the ties to these communities are strong and continue to the present day.

Windshield: These sites are significant, but structures may be in a restricted location or are inaccessible. You may drive past – or pause – at a windshield site, but please remain in your vehicle.

Stop: Feel free to park and take a leisurely walk around the area. Remember to practice good visitor manners.

Gone But Not Forgotten: These sites include places where historical events occurred, or where significant structures once stood. Both played a key role in the development of our county and the memory of them is an important part of our blended history.

Be A Thoughtful Visitor

Each of the three tours outlined here include burial grounds and sensitive historical sites. Please do not walk through grave sites and take care not to drive over, park on, or disturb grassy areas. Avoid scheduling your visit at times when worship services may be taking place. Stash your trash in receptacles provided or take it with you.

2 The Turpentine Trail ... Woodville Hwy.

Long before cotton was king in Leon County, men came to harvest the pine trees and its sap – both needed for ship building. Early land-owners cut huge swaths through the area’s forests and then transported the materials via wagon, boat and later, rail, to support America’s growing timber industry. Cleared fields were then planted with cotton and other agricultural products. The market for cotton surged and receded like the tide, and – once again – speculators turned to the pine forests to generate cash. The turpentine industry became the lifeblood of more than one town. Locally, Woodville was the center of much of the area’s turpentine production.

Our tour begins on Woodville Hwy. (State Hwy. 363) at Gaile Ave. Travel due south on Woodville Hwy.

HISTORICal FACT: At one time Crawfordville Rd., Adams Street, Monroe Street and Woodville Hwy. all joined. That intersection was called Four Points. The roads have been reconfigured and no longer connect, but the designation still appears on today’s maps. The largest drive-in movie theater in Leon County once stood on the southeast corner – now north of Gaile Ave. The area was also the heart of land once owned by Dr. A. O. Campbell, an African American physician who opened a hospital of considerable size in Tallahassee back in 1947. Gaile (pronounced Gail) Ave. was named after his granddaughter. Neighboring streets bear the first names of other family members. Campbell Pond lies a few blocks to the southeast.

The Drive In Theater at Four Points circa 1970s. Photo courtesy of the Florida State Archives Photographic Collection.

# 1) Missionary Mary Proctor’s Museum and Art Studio (Folk Gallery) started out as – well, basically – an open-air store filled with cast-away items. It was not always a prosperous venture. According to Mary’s web site, one day she was “Told by God that the door is the way”, so she began to paint an old door that was lying in her yard. Her work is now exhibited in art galleries and museums from Tallahassee to New York and she has become an important artist of considerable renown. Mary still calls Tallahassee her home. She welcomes visitors to her personal gallery and workshop, but you may want to call ahead to make certain she is in. Contact her at: 850-656-2879 or check out her web site at: http://www.missionarymary.com/index.htm. 3 # 2) The building where Revel’s Meat Market is located was constructed around 1943. In 1954, the structure was purchased by J.T. and Verice Revels who quickly established their reputation as suppliers of some of the best meats in town. Years later, their son Karlos took over, but he sold it in 2004. The new owners were not as successful as the Revels and today, Karlos is back at the counter. Over the years, the Revels donated hundreds of pounds of hot dogs, chicken and other foodstuffs to local nonprofits for fundraisers and to feed those least able to secure food. Karlos has a lot of fond memories of customers who have traded with the family for years. He remembers one family that used to come to Belair each year – traveling by mule-drawn wagon all the way from Oklahoma!

HISTORICal FACT: Revel’s Market sits on land near the old community of Belair (also seen as Bel-Air). Before the Civil War, several prominent local planters established “summer” homes here – where the sandy soil held less humidity and was home to fewer mosquitoes. After emancipation, African Americans built a community here that thrived during the reconstruction era.

# 3) The Tallahassee - St. Marks Historic Railroad State Trail follows the route of Florida’s first rail line. The project was conceived by local planters who invested huge sums of money in its construction. The railroad was also the first in the nation to receive a federal land grant. The 20-mile route connected the territorial capital of Tallahassee with the Gulf port of St. Marks in an almost perfect due-south path. It was completed in 1837. The original rail cars were flatbed conveyances designed to transport both passengers and timber industry products. There were no noisy engines – these cars were powered by mules! The animals were hitched up heading south, then unhitched, moved to the north end and lead north via the same rails. The railroad was upgraded in the 1850s and used to transport cotton. Early investors lost money, but the railroad proved to be a major catalyst in the economic development of the central, red hills region. In 1984, the Florida Department of Transportation purchased 16 miles of the rail bed and its adjacent right-of-way. Much of the original railroad bed was preserved. The present-day recreational trail – including one paved and one soft-sand surface – was constructed by the state. Allowable activities include biking, walking, jogging, skating, and horseback riding. Users are cautioned to be alert for traffic that crosses the trail at some locations and to signal their approach to others on the path. There is a parking lot and a public restroom at the north end of the trail. The south end connects to the San Marcos de Apalachee State Historic Site in Wakulla County. The property is maintained by the Florida Park Service. Call 850-922-6007 for more information.

4 HISTORICal FACT: The Spanish explorer Panfilo de Navaez arrived in the vicinity of St. Marks in 1548. The area offered an exceptional landing spot and access to the St. Marks river where weary travelers found fresh water and a haven from the often rough waters of the Gulf. Over the years, St. Marks was a critical trading center, as well as an operational base for Spanish, French, British, and American Territorial armies. It was also a military outpost during the Civil War. The San Marcos State Historic Site and Museum features reconstructions of old battlements and artifacts that were unearthed nearby, as well as films and other displays that recount the history of the area. The facility is open from 9:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. Thursday through Monday. Closed on major holidays. For more information, visit: http://www.floridastateparks.org/sanmarcos, or call 850-925-6216.

# 4) The Woodville Tract of the Wakulla State Forest has been managed by the Florida Division of Forestry since 1999. The forest is split into two tracts – the main one in Wakulla County and this smaller one in Leon. Both areas are managed using concepts that balance environmental and resource needs while providing recreational opportunities. The preservation of water quality is paramount because conduits in this area of forest land supply the world-famous Wakulla Springs. There are no designated hiking, biking or equestrian trails, but visitor access to the 20 miles of non-vehicle service roads is unrestricted. Picnic areas are available at the Woodville Tract off Hwy. 363 but there are no restrooms. Visitors are cautioned that seasonal hunting is allowed under regulations directed by the Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission. Contact the Commission at 850-488-3831 for applicable dates or visit their web site at: http://myfwc.com for more information.

HISTORICal FACT: Tree saps and oils have been collected for various uses for almost 3,000 years. In America, gum from pine trees has been used to make “pitch” and tar since the early 17th century. Pitch was used for waterproofing and was an essential material in the shipping industry. Eventually, we learned to “cook” pine resin in huge vats in order to extract oils that were previously discarded. Before long, people were discovering dozens of uses for this “oil of turpentine” – including using it for lighting and as a solvent for other materials. By 1850, demand for turpentine was rising and a profitable industry emerged. Pine harvested in the southern U.S. was the source of almost two thirds of the world’s turpentine. New uses for the product were constantly being discovered, including printing ink, a preventative for bleeding, polishes, explosives, and as an ingredient in other products used in medicine and industry.

5 # 5) The J. Lewis Hall Sr. Woodville Park and Recreation Complex was named after a former Leon County Commissioner and long-time Woodville resident. Mr. Hall was also a practicing attorney who served as the President of the Tallahassee Bar Association in 1946. The complex has several sports fields, including: four for Little League, one for the Junior League, two for softball and one multi-purpose area. There are basketball courts, a children’s playground, picnic pavilions, and a concession building. Public restrooms are on site.

HISTORICal FACT: Stories about the origin of the name Page Road abound. Some claim it was named after early settler and land-owner Benjamin Franklin Page, or his son, the beloved Woodville physician and Civil War veteran, Dr. B.F. Page. Other historians believe it was named in honor of the firstA frican American ordained minister in Leon County – ex-slave Rev. James Page.

# 6) Register’s BBQ has been a popular spot for BBQ since they opened in 1956. The building served as the Woodville Post Office until the 1940s. The structure certainly looks its age and has plenty of wear and tear to prove it has been in almost constant use for over 65 years. Stop in for a cold drink, a quick sandwich, or a full meal.

Turn left (east) on Lawhon Rd.

# 7) The White Primitive Baptist Church you see today was built in 1896 and drew its name from the fact it was always painted white. The community of Woodville was once known as White Church because most of the buildings were unpainted and – as a result – this landmark became a prominent feature. The structure was remodeled in 1948 and again in 1965, but it has retained most of its original shape and character. The earliest recorded headstone in the nearby Woodville Cemetery dates back to 1897.

Re-trace your route back to Woodville Road. Turn left (south).

# 8) The Woodville Elementary School proudly declares it is the “home of the mustangs”. Its forerunner was named the Hickory Grove Academy and was established in 1856. The academy’s 1860 Constitution also allowed for its use as “ … a place of divine of worship.” All denominations were welcomed. The 10-acre “campus” was purchased from John Beard for the sum

6 of $12.50. At that time, the town had no real name. It was known by its primary employer – Hodson’s (turpentine) Distillery. After the business closed, both the town and the school were referred to as White Church. In 1888, a group of school children decided Woodville would be a better name for the community and local officials agreed – though it was never incorporated, nor were any official boundaries established. The community grew and in 1899 a new two-room school was constructed. In 1906, the local chapter of the Woodmen of the World offered to build a two-story building and pay for one third the expense – providing the school would occupy the ground floor and the Woodmen would occupy the second and the organization would retain one third of the ownership. The offer was accepted. By 1924, Woodville was already boasting about the resident who owned the town’s first horseless carriage. There was a railroad depot, several stores, and a post office. A 1929 fire consumed much of Woodville, but the school building survived. Several additions were made to the school, but it was still overcrowded. It was torn down in 1941 to make way for the structure you see today.

HISTORICal FACT: F.A. Rhodes spoke at the 100th reunion of Woodville School in May of 1956 and described the first building as follows: “The building was of frame construction, the weather boarding being placed vertically. The two gable ends of the roof were to the north and to the south. There were wide double doors opening on the west side, which was the main entrance, and also double doors in the same position on the east side of the building. The exterior of the building was kept whitewashed. The interior was unceiled. The rostrum, with a high pulpit which was painted white, occupied the north side of the room, while a large fireplace was located just opposite on the south side.” He went on to report that “long tables” ran “from the south side of each doorway.”

Turn left (east) on Natural Bridge Rd. The next tour location is on your right.

# 9) The history of the founding of St. Stephen the Protomartyr Mission (Catholic) Church is a testament to one man’s vision – and perseverance. In 1937, Mr. F.A. Rhodes was appointed Superintendent of the Leon County School District. He served until 1942 when he enlisted in the U.S. military. At some point, he converted to Catholicism. He was determined to establish a church in Woodville, but the presiding Bishop refused his request. Rhodes bought the necessary land and offered it to the church. His plea was still turned down. In the meantime, the local Baptist church was building a new, larger building. Mr. Rhodes purchased their old church and had it

7 moved to its current location. Under his direction, Leon County Vo-Tech students built the second building as a volunteer project. Amazingly, the Diocese was still unwilling to support the little congregation. In spite of these setbacks, Rhodes and his local supporters opened the church. Soon the Bishop recognized the needs of the small congregation and today it is one of over 60 parishes under the direction of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Pensacola and Tallahassee. The interior of the main church was kept intact and contains all the original woodwork and some of the furnishings of the original Baptist church.

Continue east on Natural Bridge Road. It is a relatively long 6-mile drive to your next stop, but your route will take you through beautiful farm lands and is well worth the effort. Make certain you have enough fuel to get there and back as there are no gas stations along this road. There is a minimal cost to enter the park, but it is well worth the fee.

# 10) The Natural Bridge Battle Site has an impressive monument as a centerpiece, but is remarkably primitive in its general surroundings. On March 12, 1865 the second largest Civil War battle to be fought in Florida took place here. In the waning days of the war, word reached Tallahassee that a contingent of Union soldiers – including the 2nd and 99th Colored Infantry - had landed in Apalachicola Bay and were planning to capture the fort at St. Marks and launch an attack on the capital city. An unlikely group of students from the boy’s academy and a few men who had been too aged or physically unable to go off to war, joined some soldiers from the 5th Florida Calvary and headed off to confront the attackers. By will, determination, and knowledge of the local terrain, the southerners prevailed. The Union troops were forced back to the coast. The North lost 174 men and 26 fell dead on the Confederate side. For the last 30 years, reenactors have gathered every March to commemorate the battle and honor those that fought and died at Natural Bridge. The park is open daily from 8:00 a.m. until sunset. Admission is $2.00 per car or $1.00 per person on foot or bike. Picnic areas and restroom facilities are available.

Return to town via Natural Bridge Rd. Turn right (north) at Woodville Hwy. Make a left (west) turn on to Oak Ridge Road. The exact location of the next tour reference is unclear, but one local resident says the school was “ … about a mile or so down the road, probably on the right”.

8 # 11) The Old Woodville School (Oak Ridge) served the African American children of the town from the early 1900s until at least 1950. It was a one-room, no-indoor-plumbing school – staffed by one teacher who was responsible for handling grades one through eight. Mrs. Suwannee Lewis was one of those educators. One year she had 21 children at school. Of those, 7 selected teaching as their chosen profession and 5 pursued nursing.

HISTORICal FACT: This area of Woodville has been predominantly populated by African Americans dating back to the days when local turpentine production was at its peak. Small family farms dotted the area, as well as a defined community containing a school, churches, and social centers. Henry Jones Rd. marks land once owned by an African American who distinguished himself as a Leon County Sheriff’s officer.

To return to Tallahassee, turn around at Henry Jones Rd. and retrace your route (east) back to Woodville Hwy. and turn left (north). Or, you can connect to Tour #2 by proceeding west on Oak Ridge approximately 2.5 miles to Wakulla Springs Rd.

9 The Way to the Ol’ Swimming Hole ... Crawfordville Road

Apalachicola is an Apalachee Indian word – said to refer to “people living on the other side”. Most of the early settlement in this area of the county was limited to land that was adjacent to the three main rivers – the Apalachicola, Wakulla and Ochlockonee. As the turpentine industry developed, communities expanded, or developed, in Woodville, Gopher Ridge, and Crawfordville. This area of Leon County is defined by its once huge stands of pine and spectacular waterways and lakes.

Tour # 2 begins on U.S. Hwy. 319 (Crawfordville Rd.) at the intersection of Capital Circle S.W. Proceed south. Make a left (west) turn on to Munson Landing Rd.

HISTORICAL FACT: The Lake Munson drainage basin handles roughly 40% of the storm water run-off from urban Tallahassee. In the 1950s, treated wastewater was also dumped directly into the lake. The results were disastrous. By the early 1970s, Lake Munson had earned the sad distinction of being the most polluted lake in all of the southeastern U.S. The city took the finding seriously and embarked on an ambitious plan to reverse the damage. Nonetheless, it took almost a decade before the City of Tallahassee could construct a pipeline to divert treated effluent water to a distant spray field. In 1999, an additional project - that included restructuring associated wetlands and bottom dredging - helped to restore natural water flow patterns. Today, Lake Munson is an urban haven for wildlife and is open again for fishing. Further efforts to protect the waters of the Munson Basin and other downstream features are planned.

# 12) Munson Landing is tucked away at the end of a residential neighborhood. It is a great spot for bird watchers and you can easily launch a canoe or small row boat from the bank. The lake is shallow, but quite navigable. Parking is very limited. Still, it offers an up-close and personal view of the most serene part of the lake. Please drive slowly. Children play in this neighborhood.

Return to Crawfordville Rd. and turn right (south). Make a right turn at the sign for Lake Munson Reserve.

10 # 13) The Lake Munson Reserve offers visitors another opportunity to launch their small boats in the 260+ acre lake. In 2007, game and fish officers recorded numerous large mouth bass at Munson. The reserve also offers public restrooms, boardwalks, picnic areas, and designated places to grill.

Return to Crawfordville Rd. once again and turn right (south). You will be traveling through the Apalachicloa National Forest lands.

# 14) The Apalachicola National Forest was established in 1936. Its 564,961 acres provide a safe habitat for many species of wildlife, including deer, black bear, wild boar, turkey, and numerous varieties of birds. It is one of the largest blocks of public land east of the Mississippi River. There are few paved roads in the forest. It is well known for its unusual longleaf pine, wiregrass, savannah, bay, and swamp ecosystems. Some sections of the forest are virtually impenetrable because the area is swampy and rugged. Other sections – such as Trout Pond (located off State Rd. 373, 10 miles southwest of Tallahassee) – have been specially modified to encourage use by physically challenged individuals. A few trails are wheelchair accessible. Some of Florida’s longest wilderness hiking trails are located within the forest. Hikers can travel an uninterrupted distance of 127 miles by combining the two Apalachicola trails with the St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge and Aucilla River Extension. An estimated 500,000 people visit the Apalachicola National Forest annually. Visitors can enjoy camping, swimming, boating, picnicking, fishing, hiking, horseback, and bicycle riding. Disbursed hunt camps are set up with porta-potties during deer season. Some areas have user fees and some do not. For more information, visit http://www.fs.fed.us/r8/florida/recreation/index_apa.shtml on the web or call 850-523-8500 for more information.

FACT: Adventurous visitors can explore the Apalachicola National Forest by taking the Munson Hills Off-road Bicycle Trail. The entrance is located on a spur that connects to the St. Marks Bike Trail, approximately 2.5 miles miles south of the Woodville Hwy. trailhead. Riders can traverse sand hills, rolling terrain and shady hammocks that are scenic, but physically challenging. Cyclists are warned not to ride alone and to be alert to the wildlife that populates the area.

11 # 15) The Leon Sinks Geological Area features boardwalks and trails that offer views of sinkholes and other significant geological features. Interpretive signs inform and educate visitors. Sinks are fragile – and dangerous – due to their steep slopes and fluctuating depths. Swimming and diving are prohibited. Vehicles are limited to designated areas and no mountain bikes, ATVs, or horses are allowed. Specific areas have been provided for picnicking. Interpretive signs, a kiosk, water fountains and a public restroom are available for your convenience. A day use fee of $3.00 per vehicle is collected.

FACT: The 3-day Wakulla Wildlife Festival is held in April of each year. Events include bird walks, boat trips, arts and crafts demonstrations and sales, as well as numerous educational presentations. Most activities take place in neighboring Wakulla County, but the Leon Sinks Geological Area is usually included. For more information, visit the official, festival web site at: www.wakullawildlifefestival.org or call the Wakulla Springs Lodge at 850-224-5950.

Turn left (north) as you leave Leon Sinks. Drive approximately 1 mile to Oak Ridge Rd. and turn right (east).

# 16) It is hard to pin down just when and where St. Peter’s Primitive Baptist Church was established, but it was a thriving congregation when Lacy Hudson joined in 1937. The Rev. Lee Vaughn had just left and Rev. James Burgess assumed the pastorate. The land where today’s church stands was donated by Emeline Franklin, the Grandmother of Deacon Freddie Franklin who is the Chief Administrator of the 60-bed Miracle Hill Nursing Home in Tallahassee. Emeline and her husband John owned substantial farm lands in the area.

# 17) St. Peter’s Community Cemetery covers several acres on both sides of Wakulla Springs Road. The property is owned and maintained by St. Peter’s Primitive Baptist Church and has been in use since the early 1900s. Several members of the Franklin family are buried here

12 To return to town, head north on Wakula Springs Rd. It will connect with the Crawfordville Rd. Turn right (north). If you wish to connect with Tour # 3, head north on Crawfordville Rd. and turn left (west) on Orange Ave. Orange Ave. will become Lake Bradford Road.

13 From the Past to the Future ... Lake Bradford

From the air, Lake Bradford appears to be almost perfectly round – as if it was a water-filled crater made millennia ago. It is certainly at the center of Tallahassee’s current-day cutting edge industries and is the home territory of one of Tallahassee’s finest historical museums. Your tour will take you past places dedicated to recreation, education, and technology.

Tour # 3 begins at the intersection of Lake Bradford Rd. and Orange Ave. Head west on Orange Ave. and make a right turn on Paul Dirac Drive.

# 18) Innovation Park was established over 25 years ago to encourage research and development activities in a university-related setting. The campus covers 208 acres and every effort has been made to preserve the area’s original, natural beauty. Technology firms and scientists are able to work side-by-side here with both Florida A&M and Florida State Universities. The park’s tenants include government entities working to preserve Florida’s aquaculture and beaches, private, American and foreign firms working on new power technologies; and several firms designing and managing digital library systems.

Continue driving on Paul Dirac Drive.

# 19) Leon County was fortunate to be selected as the site of the National High Magnetic Field Laboratory. Founded in 1990, the lab has already been the site of several amazing discoveries and intensive research into the properties of magnets. The original proposal for the lab was written by Jack Crow of Florida State University, Don Parkin of the National Laboratory in Los Alamos, New Mexico and Neil Sullivan of the University of Florida in Gainesville. The three men envisioned a facility that would be based near Florida State, but would be operated collaboratively by the three entities. The proposal was backed by Florida officials and the National Science Foundation. The plan featured a state-federal partnership, linked to private industry that would support magnet research as it applied to all areas of science. The new “Mag Lab” was approved. A large, never-before- occupied building was available at an office park south of the FSU campus. The building was modified to suit the unique needs of the lab and two wings were added at either end to house needed equipment. Sensitive tools needed to be protected from outside vibration and magnetic fields. Power and cooling systems had to meet exacting standards. In June of 1994, the lab passed its first technical test. Today, the facility is considered to be the best of its kind in the world. Several Nobel Prize laureates have been employed, along with other 14 notable scientists and engineers. The facility attracts over 900 visiting scientists annually from all over the world. Visitors can enjoy guided tours almost daily. For more information, visit their web site at: http://www.magnet.fsu.edu. To inquire about tours, call 850-645-0034.

Proceed east on Paul Dirac Drive to view some of the other interesting buildings in this unique office complex. Turn left (south) on to Pottsdammer Street.

# 20) The Don Veller Seminole Golf Course and Club is owned and operated by Florida State University. Fifty years ago this area was pastureland, but today the Seminole Golf Club is a championship 18-hole course with a pro shop, restaurant, and state of the art amenities. Seminole is also the home of FSU’s Professional Golf Management Program. Membership is open to the general public, as well as students and faculty, but the facility only accepts 100 new memberships per year. Previous year members are allowed to renew. The club is named in honor of FSU’s first paid football coach. Veller later coached golf at FSU. He passed away in 2006, just 11 days after the death of his beloved wife. For additional information, call the General Manager at 850-644-5328.

# 21) The College of Engineering is jointly operated by the Florida A&M and Florida State Universities and sits just across the street from the golf course. The facility is the heart of the Mechanical Engineering B.A. and graduate studies programs offered by the two institutions. It was established in 1983 and has grown from a staff of one to 19 full-time faculty positions. In addition to classroom activities, the College of Engineering conducts research activities - involving fluid mechanics, heat transfer, structural mechanics, material science and dynamic systems and controls - in partnership with the National High Magnetic Field Laboratory, the Center for Advanced Power Systems, the Center for Materials Research and Technology and the School of Computational Science and Information Technology. Cutting edge studies include examinations of power and energy conservation.

Turn right (west) on Lake Bradford Road. Retrace your route to Orange Ave. Turn left (south) on Rankin Rd. Rankin will dead-end at Museum Rd.

15 # 22a) The Tallahassee Museum of History and Natural Science offers a unique blend of history and nature in the heart of a busy city, along the banks of Lake Bradford. Visitors can take a walk through time as they explore an 1880s farm complex, or learn about the natural wonders of the Big Bend area at the Natural Habitat Zoo. Booklets and interpretive signs guide visitors through 52 acres of reconstructed buildings, nature trails, science centers, bridges and a fascinating open-air bird sanctuary. Many of the buildings are accessible. Snacks are available for purchase and the availability of picnic tables, benches and public restrooms encourage visitors to spend a considerable amount of time on site. Guided tours can be arranged through the museum’s education department or you can explore on your own. Museum hours are 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 12:30 to 5:00 p.m. on Sunday. Admission is free for members and children under 3. Adults are charged $8.00, senior citizens and college students with valid IDs pay $7.50. Children aged 4-15 are charged $5.50. Some facilities are available for rent. Visit their web site at: http://www.tallahasseemuseum.org/index.cfm for more information or call 850-576-1636.

The next two tour locations are on the grounds of the Museum of History and Natural Science.

# 22b) The Bethlehem Missionary Baptist Church represents one of the oldest African American congregations in the state. As a slave, James Page was allowed to travel around the area and conduct worship services and perform baptisms. With the support and encouragement of his “owner”, Col. John H. Parkhill, Rev. Page was formally ordained in 1851. Parkhill donated land for Page to establish a permanent church in the Belair community south of Tallahassee. During Reconstruction, Page developed an interest in politics. In 1867, he was elected as a delegate to the Republican Convention. He served as a Leon County Commissioner for two years, but was unsuccessful in an 1870 bid for the State Senate. That year, some of his congregation left to build a new church in town (Today’s Bethel Missionary Baptist Church). Another group splintered off and built the New Bethlehem Baptist Church on Dantzler Drive. Page continued to pastor, but accepted an appointment to serve as Leon County’s Justice of the Peace in 1872. James died eleven years later and was buried in Tallahassee’s Old City Cemetery. His remaining congregation built a new church in 1937, but how long they continued to meet can not be documented with certainty.

In the 1970s, Jerry Chance, a professor of philosophy and religion from Florida A&M University, discovered the circa 1937 church building was being used as a storage facility. He was determined to

16 save the structure. It was moved to the museum grounds as a FAMU Bicentennial Project in 1976. With additional support from the Museum of Florida History, Tallahassee designer Peter Bigalow, and a grant supplied by the National Endowment for the Humanities, the old church has since been lovingly restored and interpreted.

# 22c) The Concord School was built in Miccosukee in the 1870s for the children of former slaves. It was in use until 1968 – 14 years after the Federal courts ordered public schools to be desegregated. The structure was moved – in pieces – and re-built on the museum grounds. You can learn more about this building in the East Leon County Heritage Tour booklet.

FACT: Lakes Bradford, Hiawatha, Cascade, and Grassy form the Bradford Brooks chain of lakes. Numerous cypress trees grow in, and around, these waters. The tannic acid they release often colors the water a deep brown. Boardwalks at the Museum of History and Natural Science have been constructed along the shore and over the water where visitors can get an up-close view of some lake residents.

Exit the museum grounds by turning right on to Museum Rd. Follow the curves as the road becomes Pioneer Drive and then Lakeview. Turn right on Lake Bradford Road. Make another right at Flastacowo.

# 23) Florida State University’s Seminole Reservation was founded in 1920 by Mrs. S.L. Cawthon, then the social director of the Florida State College for Women. She christened the facility Flastacowo – an amalgam of the institution’s name. In 1954, the women’s college became Florida State University and the 73-acre Flastacowo was renamed the F.S.U. Seminole Reservation. Today, the recreational area is known simply as The “Rez”. Features include a swimming beach, a recreational building with game tables, a climbing wall, and beach volleyball. While the Rez is maintained primarily for use by F.S.U. students and faculty, some areas are open to the public. Occasional tours – sometimes featuring lectures about the ecology of Lake Bradford – are conducted for a reasonable fee. There is a boat ramp that is not generally considered to be public, but arrangements can be made to launch non jet-powered watercraft such as canoes, kayaks, row boats, and small sailboats. Fees range from $5.00 for students to $10.00 for others. No pets are allowed on the Rez and alcohol is strictly prohibited. Contact the boathouse at 850-644-6892 for more information.

17 # 24) The Lake Bradford Dance Hall was one place in town where young people could shake a leg “back in the days”. When Mr. Levy first built the place in 1922, it was called the Levy Dance Hall and Pavilion. In addition to band concerts, the facility also offered boating, swimming, speedboat racing, and skeet shooting. Some referred to it as Tallahassee’s first country club. In accordance with state law and common practice, the facility was restricted to whites only into the 1960s. The 40 acre spot is still owned by James Levy – the original owner’s grandson – but the dance hall is no longer in use.

18 Notes

19 “Main Roads & Cross Roads” Sites

The Turpentine Trail ... Woodville Hwy.

# 1 – Stop - Mary Proctor’s Museum and Art Studio # 2 – Stop - Revell’s Meats # 3 – Stop - Historic St. Marks Bike Trail # 4 – Stop - Woodville State Forest # 5 – Stop - J. Lewis Hall Recreation Area # 6 – Stop - Register’s BBQ # 7 – Windshield - White Primitive Baptist Church and Woodville Cemetery # 8 – Windshield - Woodville Elementary School # 9 – Windshield - St. Stephen’s Catholic Church # 10 – Stop - Natural Bridge Battle Site # 11 – Gone But Not Forgotten - Old Woodville School (Oak Ridge)

The Way to the Ol’ Swimming Hole ... Crawfordville Road

# 12 – Stop - Munson Landing # 13 – Stop - Munson Preserve # 14 – Stop - Apalachee National Forest # 15 – Stop - Leon Sinks # 16 – Windshield - St. Peter’s Church # 17 – Stop - St. Peter’s Cemetery

From the Past to the Future ... Lake Bradford

# 18 – Drive Through - Innovation Park # 19 – Stop - National High Magnetic Field Laboratory # 20 – Windshield - Don Veller Seminole Golf Course and Club # 21 – Windshield - College of Engineering # 22a – Stop - Tallahassee Museum of History and Natural Science # 22b – Stop - Bethlehem Missionary Baptist Church # 22c – Stop - Concord School # 23 – Stop - Florida State University Seminole Reservation (FLASTACOWO) Recreation Area # 24 – Gone But Not Forgotten - Lake Bradford Dance Club

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