Issue No. 203 Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 ORDER DELIVERY TO Serbian film Resonate Homemade YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 industry needs celebrates [email protected] - th ISSN 1820-8339 1 resources to 5 anniversary BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 grow with spectacular lineup Page 6 Page 10 Page 11 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough Benefits EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser Jihadists ‘target - - -

of Serbia’sNEWS young, marginalised lavish investorNEWS

subsidies “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: Serbian Muslims’ party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. Anti-Muslim queried sentiment and page 10 Serbia saw the rift between increased rates Serbia’s Islamic

of FDI in 2015 - hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - affairs institutions a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in , Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. which may reflect W have allowed the generous June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, violent jihadi packages on offer - extremists but experts worry page 5 to exploit about the long-term disadvantaged consequences for conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the the budget and After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party Roma and E Bosniak for free market competition. communities, Friday • June 13 2008 warn experts. Saša DRAGOJLO

Marija RISTIĆ erbia’s government last THIS ISSUE OF

Zoran MAKSIMOVIĆ September agreed to Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED Saša DRAGOJLO spend some €27,000 on on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic every new worker that the which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T y husband Chinese company Meita explained Europe doo hired in their According to Serbian intelligence records, Islamic extremists, said to be linked to Wahhabi communities in Photo: BIRN some things Sandžak with strong links to groups in Bosnia, are operating through ‘unofficial’ mosques. newS factory producing automotive about Islam parts, which is due to be built in Barič, to me and I were women from Zagreb and Bel- Serbs were joining pro-Russian forces All of Kasumović’s co-defendants a small municipality on the edge of Bel- decided to grade, but most of the women there in , the government passed new were leaders of the Islamic youth grade. “Membrace it. In the beginning, everything were Bosnian,” she says. laws in October 2014 criminalising par- organisation Furkan, based in the The government also pledged to give was fine. It was a change but it was OK… “I barely understood what was hap- ticipation in, or organising and recruit- Sandžak city of Novi Pazar. the firm a 14-acre site for free, a tax waiv- But when we went to , everything pening around me…except that I was ing others to take part in, foreign wars. Prosecutors allege all five were part er, to renounce its share of ownership changed. He was telling me fairy tales. I scared all the time,” she recalls. “I feared Aleksandra Đurović, a Serbian Pro- of “a network of Islamic extremists in the company and exempt it for three believed him, so I went,” says Makfirete for myself but even more for my child.” gressive Party MP, said during a parlia- that targeted marginalised groups” and years from all utility costs. Šaćiri. Her brother was killed fighting in Syr- mentary debate held in December the used the Furkan premises from 2012 to This was not the end of the list of In her first media interview, Šaćiri ia, at which point Šaćiri claims to have number of nationals leaving to fight in 2014 as a meeting place and base from perks on offer. The government also told the Balkan Investigative Reporting “come to my senses”. She and her child overseas conflicts had declined sharp- which to send an unknown number of agreed to build infrastructure connec- Network, BIRN, she travelled to Syria returned to Serbia in February 2014 be- ly since the new laws were introduced. fighters to Syria and . tions for the company and financially in late 2013 to join her husband, Ferat cause, Šaćiri says, “my husband got the In addition, the prosecution claims support the training of potential em- Kasumović, and brother, Fahredin order to do so”. ‘NETWORK the accused organised recruitment and ployees. Šaćiri. According to security service esti- OF EXTREMISTS’ preparatory meetings across Serbia and Milan Kovačević, an expert in for- Taking her child with her, Šaćiri mates, 50 Serbian Muslims, including arranged visits to the north-eastern Bos- eign investment and a member of the crossed into Syria from and women and children, travelled to Syria Šaćiri’s husband, Kasumović, is now nian town of Gornja Maoča, hosted by Scientific Association of Economists of spent several months in Raqqa, consid- and Iraq between early 2012 and Janu- on trial with four others at the Higher its former imam, Nusret Imamović. ISIS Serbia, says this was typical of the way ered the ‘capital’ of Islamic State, ISIS. ary 2016. Many are, like Šaćiri, from Ser- Court in Belgrade. They are all ac- flags have been spotted in the town and, that Serbia uses contracts as bait to lure Šaćiri, an ethnic Roma in her late 20s, bia’s highly marginalised Roma com- cused of committing and training oth- according to the Bosnian security ser- big investors, but adds that they are es- says she was placed in “an apartment munity. Others have been recruited ers to commit terrorism offences in vices, Imamović is now fighting in Syria. sentially harmful for the country. for women and kids”. from the Bosniak Muslim population. Syria. Two, Abid Podbićanin and Tefik “There were women from , As it became clear Muslims were Mujović, are believed to be in Syria and , [and] Switzerland… There leaving to fight in the Middle East and are being tried in absentia. Continued on page 3 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Šešelj’s acquittal - a gift for Jihadists ‘target young, Serbian right-wingers? marginalised Serbian Muslims’

The three in custody while on trial - Middle East, agrees key drivers for radi- The acquittal of Kasumović, Sead Plojović and Izudin calisation include poverty, poor educa- ‘NOT GUILTY’ Crnovšanin - admit to being in Syria but tion, limited interaction within wider Vojislav Šešelj he ICTY judge Jean-Claude deny committing terrorist acts. society and alienation. Antonetti said that the The trial, which is expected to contin- “The state needs to change its atti- was celebrated prosecution failed to show ue for several more months, is the first tude towards Muslims and work more Ta concrete link between Serbian prosecution related to suspect- on eliminating discriminatory prac- by his hardline Šešelj’s nationalist speeches and ed jihadists fighting in Syria and Iraq. tices… it needs to create a social climate the crimes committed in Bosnia Adem Demirović, a Vienna-based where Muslims feel fully equal as citi- supporters but and Herzegovina, and Serbia. Muslim religious leader, has given ser- zens with the rest of the population,” he mons at the Furkan building in Novi says. it could also “The propaganda of nationalist Pazar and was considered one of its Noting Roma communities “face ideologies is not criminal,” he said. senior authorities. He denies links to very bad economic conditions and are boost support violent extremism and told BIRN he not integrated enough within society”, The court acquitted Šešelj of crimes has never advocated fighting for ISIS, Kostić warns this kind of alienation can against humanity, saying there for right-wing insisting Furkan simply “nurtures origi- lead to a “jihadist ideology that has ab- was “no crucial legal evidence” to convict him. nal Islam”. solutely nothing to do with Islam”. nationalist parties He claims only two Muslims who As to criticisms both Islamic Com- Antonetti said the prosecution “visited Furkan” went to Syria and Iraq munity bodies should tackle the issue, at the upcoming failed to prove that there was a and says others, even if they “came Kostić acknowledges they have a role widespread and systematic attack here once” are “just attributed to us”. to play but dismisses the notion they parliamentary on non-Serb civilians during the “I personally supported the fight [in can prevent radicalisation and violent indictment period. Syria and Iraq] in the sense of protect- extremism alone. elections, He said the trial chamber couldn’t ing the innocent who were being killed “More and more you hear that the dismiss the defendant’s argument there and helping them, but when con- main responsibility [for tackling radi- analysts that civilians fled combat zones to flicts appeared within the Islamic op- calisation] lies with the Islamic com- take refuge and that buses taking position [in Syria], I immediately said it munity but this is not true… primarily, suggested. away Croats were doing it out of was not permitted. Under Sharia [law] it is a matter for the state security agen- humanitarian motives, not forcibly it is forbidden to take part in… conflicts cies and the police. They must carefully removing them. between Muslims,” he says. follow what is happening and react if Marija RISTIĆ The court also cleared Šešelj of According to police sources Furkan needed,” he says. Saša DRAGOJLO murder, torture, plunder, wanton has “downscaled activities” in recent Bekir Makić, a religious leader, teach- Filip AVRAMOVIĆ destruction and causing devasta- months in response to “increased mon- er and former Islamic Community of tion in several places in Bosnia and itoring” by security services and the Serbia official, also cautions violent he decision by the Croatia, saying there was “insuffi- prosecution indictment. Islamic extremism is a global phenom- Hague Tribunal to ac- cient evidence” to convict him. Serbian Interior Minister Nebojša enon and that youths “are following quit Šešelj on all nine Stefanović said there are no direct ter- events in Syria via the media and social It said his project to create a ‘Greater counts in the indict- Serbia’ was a political plan, not a rorism threats to the country but un- networks, which is where most… are be- ment including crimes criminal one and that there were derlined Belgrade is cooperating with ing recruited”. against humanity was “reasonable grounds” to say that his national, regional and international se- Makić says young jihadists “have warmly welcomed by his supporters deployment of paramilitary volun- curity services. been presented with a picture of Syria T Bekir Makić, former Islamic Community of Serbia official, believes vulnerable Muslims should be Photo: Facebook at his Serbian Radical Party headquar- teers was to “protect civilians”. “We are taking this issue seriously. ‘taught the correct values of faith’ to combat violent extremism. that differs from reality, so they be- ters in the Belgrade neighbourhood of The police are cooperating with the lieve they are fighting for real values… “The chamber is not satisfied that Zemun on March 31st. state security agency and the prosecu- paradžemati or ‘para-mosques’. Muslim leaders in Zemun and Sme- Policy think tank, believes regulat- [despite there being] no justification the recruitment/deployment of vol- Packed with journalists and party unteers implies that Vojislav Šešelj tion, and we are closely monitoring the Islamist recruiters have been, claim derevo deny any links to sponsoring or ing paradžemati is an essential part of for their actions… no religious, human, members, the press room of the par- knew of the crimes committed on situation in the field,” he said. Serbian prosecutors, most active in the supporting terrorist acts or recruiting tackling radicalisation but warns more moral justification for leaving to join ty’s office was too small to accommo- the ground, nor [that he] instructed Police and state officials confirmed majority Bosniak Muslim Sandžak re- and sending fighters to Syria and Iraq. needs to be done to prevent people the so-called Islamic State”. date everyone who wanted to hear or ordered crimes,” the judge said. seven nationals known to have re- gion in south-western Serbia that strad- Adem Morina, imam of the Sme- fighting in foreign wars. Aside from tackling poverty and what his supporters described as his turned to Serbia from the Middle East dles the border with and derevo mosque, describes the allega- He says the new laws allow the au- social-exclusion, Makić believes young “victory speech”. The Hague Tribunal prosecution are being closely monitored. areas with sizable Roma populations, tions as “false”, insisting: “This is just thorities to punish offenders but does Serbian Muslims “need to be taught the has said it will review the word- Half hour later than scheduled, such as the town of Smederevo in cen- a place to pray and serves as nothing not combat extremism or provide correct values of faith… and be given an ing of the verdict acquitting Šešelj Šešelj arrived at what he himself before deciding whether or not to MUSLIMS ‘RADICALISED IN tral Serbia and the Belgrade suburb of more than that… there are no deals “mechanisms that would prevent peo- opportunity to live a decent life”. described as a “regular press confer- launch an appeal. IMPROVISED MOSQUES’ Zemun. and no meetings to discuss going there ple” going in the first place. Makfirete Šaćiri, who is now separat- ence”. Police records obtained by BIRN [Syria].” ed from Kasumović, would agree. “Look how many of you are here, we “We fully understand that many According to Serbian intelligence state at least 10 people from Roma com- Representatives of the Muslim com- ‘INEQUALITY, ALIENATION She remains an observant Muslim should have sold tickets,” he said in his victims and communities will be records, Islamic extremists, said to be munities have gone to Syria – including munity in Zemun declined to comment BREED EXTREMISM’ but regrets going to Syria, saying her first public comment an hour after the disappointed by the trial chamber’s linked to Wahhabi communities in the former imam of the Zemun ‘para- beyond denying involvement of any husband and other jihadi fighters judgment,” the prosecution said in judge in his 13-year-long case acquit- Sandžak with strong links to groups mosque’ Goran Pavlović. The docu- kind with fighting in Syria and Iraq. Ivan Ejub Kostić, author of Persecut- abused Islam for their own purposes. a statement. ted him. in Bosnia, are operating through ‘un- ments state all other Serbian nationals Marko Milošević, a researcher ed Islam and managing director of the “At this point, I feel sorry for the peo- The Hague Tribunal ruled that Šešelj official’ mosques, known locally as in Syria and Iraq are Bosniak Muslims. at the Belgrade Centre for Security Belgrade-based Balkan Centre for the ple there,” she says. Šešelj during the March 24th rally. Photo: Beta was not guilty of crimes against hu- manity including murder, persecution “On one hand, they won’t bother us POLITICAL CONSEQUENCES the rise of their popularity,” he said. told BIRN that the acquittal verdict will and expulsions in Bosnia and Herze- by saying that no Serb has been ac- According to Ilić, this is also a win-win secure more voters for Šešelj and most govina, Croatia and Serbia during the quitted, but on the other hand it’s an Experts have warned that the acquit- situation for Prime Minister Aleksandar likely guarantee his party some parlia- early 1990s. absolute catastrophe, because all the tal could reignite nationalist settlement Vučić, another former ally of Šešelj’s who mentary seats. The nationalist leader was defiant, war criminals should be convicted,” in Serbia. now leads the ruling Progressive Party. “This doesn’t mean he will get some revelling in his ‘triumph’ and insisting said 23-year-old Tea. Dejan Ilić, a transitional justice expert “Firstly, his notorious biography as significant result, but he will for sure that the idea of a ‘Greater Serbia’ was “He should have been freed ear- and author at the Peščanik website, told Šešelj’s little helper is clean since Šešelj is pass the threshold [of five per cent “immortal”. lier. He’s the only man who was tell- BIRN that the verdict undermines ef- not guilty. Secondly, he will get a perfect necessary to enter parliament] which He showed no remorse for his ac- ing the truth,” said 60-year-old Zoran forts in Serbia to confront the country’s opposition [at the elections], because is more than enough for Šešelj at this tions during the war years: “I don’t feel Tricković. role in the 1990s wars. he can always say, ‘Well, you don’t want point,” Klačar said. guilty about anything that happened “Of course Šešelj’s defense did a “This verdict substantially changes Šešelj instead of me, right?’” Ilić said. According to Klačar, the acquittal also in the 1990s,” he said. wonderful job. This is a great moment things in Serbia… Any suggestion of the Since he was granted temporary re- made it easier for Šešelj to campaign as He also said he still saw the Hague for Serbia and its citizens,” said 80 criminal role of the Serbian state or the lease for cancer treatment by the Hague he will be perceived as a winner in The Tribunal as biased: “My stance to- year-old Božidar. collective responsibility of Serbian elites Tribunal in 2014, Šešelj has been holding Hague. wards the ICTY as an anti-Serb court Serbian President Tomislav Nikolić, and the warmongering media during rallies aimed at ensuring his party will Klačar said that the Karadžić ver- hasn’t changed at all,” he declared. who was once Šešelj’s right-hand man the war has been delegitimised with this get back into parliament after losing its dict, the recent commemoration of the On the streets of the capital, ordi- but left the Radical Party in 2008 to verdict,” Ilić said. seats in the 2012 elections while he was anniversary of the NATO bombing of nary Belgraders had mixed views form the now-ruling Progressive Party, Ilić suggested that it could also give in the detention. Serbia and the refugee crisis, as well as about the acquittal, but some said is now seen by his old ally as an enemy. right-wing parties like Šešelj’s more The most recent opinion poll by the Šešelj’s acquittal, will draw support for they agreed that the Hague Tribunal is Nikolić had no warm words to say credibility ahead of parliamentary elec- Faktor Plus agency suggested that his right-wing parties at the ballot box next a political court. about Šešelj’s acquittal. tions next month. Radicals are now only preferred by 6.1 month. “I heard that he’s been acquitted and I “I feel indifferent towards the ver- “The Serbian Radical Party and other per cent of Serbia’s voters, just enough to “Right-wing parties are now using the can only say that this is a great decision dict on Vojislav Šešelj; I don’t have any extreme rightists can now relativize eve- scrape into the legislature at April’s vote. momentum created from outside, and I because they have nothing to convict feelings for him,” he briefly told jour- rything that happened during the war, Bojan Klačar, director of the Centre for expect to see at least two of them in the him of,” 25 year-old Dušan told BIRN. nalists. which will definitely have an effect on Free Elections and Democracy, CESID, next parliament,” he said. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Belgrade through the eyes of a Gen Y

Belgrade’s plethora of independent shops offer up a wealth of sweets and other hidden delights.

in many other European capitals, where countless small businesses have already been chased out by bigger ones. Yes, Belgrade has malls, many of them in New Belgrade like Ušće, Delta City and Mercator, but these modern shopping meccas haven’t overrun the eastern side of the Sava yet. Novel little shops from bygone eras can still be readily found here. Emma KRSTIĆ Topčider. Photo: Belgrade Raw / Nemanja Knežević Not so many candy stores, however. Walking down Gavrila Principa, Bombondžija Bosiljčić is now an it’s easy to miss one of Belgrade’s anomaly in a city where estimates little gems. Tucked inconspicu- put the number of sweet shops at 120 ously between gritty storefronts, at their peak, so the store’s survival is Bombondžija Bosiljčić (at number something to be celebrated. 14) made me stop for a second look when a rainbow-coloured lollipop Bombondžija Bosiljčić is not the only caught my eye under the red-and- bastion of traditional Belgrade still white gingham curtains in the standing. There is also a family-run window. perfumery, a place called Parfimerija Sava (Kralja Petra 75). It was first It wasn’t until I stepped through the opened in 1954 by members of little red doorway and started talking the Jovanov clan. And Kapa Rade to Silvana, the wife of Živorad, who is (Balkanska Street 34) is one of three the third generation of Bosiljčić men remaining family-run hat shops in to run this traditional sweet shop, the city, according to a proud store that I realised I’d come across an- assistant. It has been in operation other of Belgrade’s surprising treats since the early 1950s when Radoslav (pardon the pun). Stefanović, who learned the craft of hat-making from his father and uncle, First opening its doors in 1936, opened a shop on one of Belgrade’s Bombondžija Bosiljčić is said to be steepest streets. the last remaining family-run sweet It seems that on every Belgrade shop in Belgrade. Now celebrating its A sight-seeing tour is the best way to explore the city. Photo: bstours.rs 80th year in operation, its popularity street holds little treasures like these. is clearly not waning; in the 15 min- On Gospodar Jovanova, I recently utes I was there, five people popped noticed a small window from which their heads in the door to buy boxes a woman, roughly in her 60s, was of ratluk, the Serbian term for Turkish placing packets of homemade pasta delight. on the ledge just below. She proudly told me that she cooks “all kinds of Open bus tours Silvana tells me that this is by far the pasta – long, short, red, green” every shop’s most popular sweet – and day in her little kitchen. it comes in a number of flavours, including traditional nut varieties Just the other day I found myself in a kick off in the capital as well as more unusual combina- charming bookstore and cafe called tions like rum and plum. But it all Apropo (Nikole Spasića 10), which started for Bombondžija Bosiljčić I soon realised was particularly Ivana NIKOLIĆ lasts about 70 minutes and can be en- animal-friendly, with well-fed cats As Belgrade’s with handmade caramels, which are joyed in Serbian, English, French and Photo: Belgrade Raw /Dušan Rajić still made using the original family running around the shelves. While Lekino brdo. recipe passed down by Živorad’s the hipster trend of cat cafes has sight-seeing he Tourist Organisation of German. grandfather. taken off in London and Amsterdam, Belgrade, TOB, said on March Among the tour’s highlights are the this unexpected Belgrade version season 30th that it will distribute as National Assembly, the Kalemegdan, Through the curtain leading into the doesn’t appear to be following the many as 40 free passes on embassies on Kneza Miloša Street, the kitchen, you can glimpse more of fad. The owners clearly like cats, T st the family’s sweet-making traditions. that’s all. begins, the Friday, April 1 , for Belgraders and tour- Museum of Yugoslav History, the Bel- Old-fashioned cauldrons boil and ists who wish to enjoy a unique look at grade Zoo, Student Park, several muse- And when’s the last time you saw a bubble with thick sugary syrups. capital’s tourist the Serbian capital. ums and other important parts of the This tangible sense of nostalgia is broom shop? You can still find a few White City in focus strengthened by the historic location: in Belgrade, and they sell just about organization The tour starts at 11am at Nikola Pašić capital. Despite its popularity, the store still any type of broom or brush you like. Square in downtown Belgrade. Tickets for adults cost 600 dinars One young group of street photog- It’s not just the subjects that make beyond the city’s insular artistic cir- aspire to plant the seeds of creativity in maintains a shop-front of no more You can even get your old broom After the free tour on April st1 , TOB (around €4.8), while children under Street photogra- raphers is working to present a more a Belgrade Raw photo. The collective cles. young minds. repaired if you’re attached to it. announces a free than three metres. will operate regular tours every day at 12 ride for 450 dinars (around €3.6). phy collective authentic, visceral and holistic view has an uncompromising, head-on gaze, But their reputation quickly grew be- “We are trying to make them feel This fact also demonstrates that Belgrade is full of hidden treasures. open bus tour for 11am and 1pm. In prior years the agen- Tickets can be purchased on the bus, of Belgrade as an antidote to the facile without embellishment or idealisation yond the website and attracted interna- good and relaxed about what they are Just slow down and open your eyes gentrification is happening at a st cy has run 5pm tours also, and repre- at the TOB Centre at Knez Mihailova Belgrade Raw is imagery of tourism and marketing. The towards their subjects. The best of the tional attention. In 2013, the collective doing,” says Knežević. “One of the main much slower pace in Belgrade than as you wander the city’s meandering sentatives say they will probably offer Street or from BS Tours’ office at Savs- street photography collective Belgrade photos present exactly the same view published a photo book of their work, obstacles for most of us, and for me streets. April 1 . evening tours against this year. A tour ki Trg 1a. taking an un- Raw “looks at the streets, ordinary you’d see if you were walking through edited by famed Canadian photojour- specifically because I do photography and extraordinary people, places and the streets yourself. nalist Donald Weber. Their work has for a living, is putting yourself in these flinching look at events that, in our belief, reflect the true “We were trying to present it how we been featured in international exhibi- frames of ‘how it should be done.’ When ORDER DELIVERY TO look and feel of our city” according to see it. Not just how we see it, but how tions throughout Europe. you’re younger, you’re not self-confi- Belgrade and its its website. The group has built an on- people around us see it,” says Knežević. Not everyone likes their naked gaze dent. We’re trying to tell them that it is YOUR DOOR line archive of daily life in Belgrade that It’s a mission they’ve had from the on the more unseemly, less attractive important to work constantly on your Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] people. feels more vital, more honest than any- start. Belgrade Raw was founded in aspects of the city. own ideas.” Belgrade Insight here: http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/ thing produced by marketers. 2009 by a group of five young, self- “In my opinion, people usually don't Every year, Belgrade Raw exhibits a page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight “Somehow people had it in their taught photographers. They started the like to see those types of scenes. They collection of work in Belgrade taken by Drew ADAMEK minds that they should present the group out of a mutual interest in street are avoiding them,” says Rajic. “Like on the young participants and produces a city better than it is,” says Belgrade photography and the emerging presen- the street, most people just turn their companion publication. uch of what the Raw photographer Nemanja Knežević. tation possibilities of the Internet. Sever- heads. They don't see the beggar, they Belgrade Raw’s work also has an SUPERMARKET CONCEPT STORE HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL JUMP INN TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL outside world “For me, the city is different because of al years later they added five more pho- just move on.” unintended benefit that the founders Address: Višnjićeva 10 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Koče Popovića 2a Address: Čika Ljubina 8 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE knows about Bel- how raw it is. It is a chaotic city in every tographers, and there are now 10. Only Belgrade Raw is also fostering a never imagined at the beginning: Their Address: Smetanina 12 grade comes from possible way and because of that it is one, co-founder Darko Stanimirović, has photography community and em- photo archives are becoming a histori- MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FAOUNDATION images: Glossy unique and shouldn't be presented dif- a university degree in photography. powering creativity in Serbia with a cal record of life in the city, especially Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE RADISSON BLU OLD photos of Kal- ferently.” Throughout its history, Belgrade Raw youth-centred workshop programme as parts of the city gentrify and shift to- Address: Kolarčeva 3 MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE Mamegdan sunsets on tourism websites. Belgrade Raw’s work is an unflinch- has always acted as a collective, the called “Serbia Raw.” Several times a wards a more Western orientation. HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA FORCED2THINK Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 Splashy magazine layouts of glamor- ing look at the chaos, beauty, banal- members working together to curate year, a group of Belgrade Raw photog- “The city is non-stop changing and it Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 Address: Požeška 42 RESTAURANT BIZU www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade ous trendsetters drinking cocktails on ity and struggles of everyday street life. and improve their work. raphers travel throughout the coun- won’t be recognizable in 10 or 20 years,” Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 splavs. Blurred footage from the battle- Their images, collected and continu- “This working together is bringing out try to hold three-day photography says Rajić. “What is interesting for me is HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL VOZAREV INTERGALACTIC DINNER fields of the 1990s. ally updated on their website, www. the best in us,” says Belgrade Raw mem- seminars. how we will look back on our archive Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 CAFE CAFFELOUNGE Do a Google image search of Bel- belgraderaw.com, are snapshots of life ber Dušan Rajić. “It’s not something that “We don’t have a strict age limit. It’s with what is happening on the Internet. Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Vase Pelagića 48 grade and the first 50 results are tourist- so woven into the fabric of the city that we discussed. We were just reacting to anywhere from kids to 18-20 some- It will make accessing the archive of the CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF Mihajla Pupina 85A friendly, well-composed panoramas of they are often overlooked: A woman the situation that was in front of us and thing. We are not trying to teach them city much easier.” Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE the riverfronts, Knez Mihailova and the sweeping the sidewalk. Laundry hang- it grew from there.” about photography because we are “It occurred to me recently that is Address: Skadarska 34 MIXER HOUSE Address: Temišvarska 19 nighttime skyline. But as anyone who ing in a courtyard. Cab drivers arguing From the beginning they’ve post- mostly self-taught,” says Rajić. useful for young people to see what it KOLARAC Address: Karađorđeva 46 has spent more than a day here knows, on Slavija. Muddy boots on a crowded ed their work on the Internet, both to Rather than repeating the dry techni- was like,” says Knežević. “It’s useful but Address: Kolarčeva 7 Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL MERIOT KNJIŽARA APROPO there is much more to the city than the bus. A man dancing by himself at a explore new curatorial possibilities cal and stylistic instructions typical of it’s not a responsibility for us. We are Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 Address: Cara Lazara 10 Sava River at night. backyard party. and to reach a much larger audience artistic workshops, Rajić and Knežević just doing what we love.” 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS

Continued from page 1 Bids open for Slavija Square FREE ZONES reconstruction 'DAMAGE FREE Serbian film MARKET ' A tender for reconstruction of the Slavija Square, Serbia has set up 14 so-called continuing towards Benefits “free zones” in municipalities in Autokomanda, has been which companies can access announced on the Internet in brief Belgrade industry needs special privileges to start pro- site of the European Bank duction and create new jobs. for Reconstruction and Companies here can operate of Serbia’s without paying the full cost of Development. The criteria for selection of bidders is resources to grow production, whose costs are that the contractor has an substantially transferred to the average annual turnover state. INTERNATIONAL Import into and export from of at least €35 million Award-winning lavish RECOGNITION these zones is free of VAT, for the past five years. customs and clearance. If goods Bidders are required to Serbian film Ljuca’s painstaking efforts paid off produced within the zone use have experience as prime director Nikola in recognition, both for himself and a minimum of 50 per cent of contractors in at least three Serbia. Before its Serbian premiere, ‘Hu- investor domestic components, they are projects worth at least €15 midity’ debuted in February at the 66th considered “of Serbian origin” million. The projects must Ljuca argues Annual Berlin International Film Fes- and are thus eligible to be im- be finished and similar to tival, Berlinale, one of the world’s most ported into Serbia or exported the Slavija reconstruction. that filmmakers prestigious film events. without customs, pursuant to He recalls how the entire film crew subsidies free trade agreements. Belgrade in Serbia are ‘was screaming’ when they heard the However, Milan Kovačević to protect children working hindered film was chosen to participate at Berli- said offering subsidies in “free and living in the nale and they tried to keep it a secret for zones” undermines free market street a while but it eventually leaked. competition. by financial “You come to Berlin, everything is queried “Someone who gets that type Belgrade Siniša hardship so huge, and there are people who of benefits corrupts the free Mali, Interior Minister simply came to see your film. There market, since particular inves- Nebojša Stefanović, and and a lack of you realize that you actually make his is one of the In April 2015, parliament approved a tors gain an advantage over their Ahmed Pjano, Director of films for the people entirely,” the di- worst contracts Special Law for the expropriation of pri- competitors,” Kovačević said. rector says. I saw - subsi- vate land specifically for the purpose of Milenko Srećković, author the "Save the Children" systematic Ljuca’s film, along with a documenta- dies as a kind the Belgrade Waterfront. of the research work “Corpora- programme for the ry called ‘Depth II’ by Ognjen Glavonić, of bribe for for- Defending the Special Law in parlia- tive Imperialism: The Zones of northwestern Balkans, support. was one of two Serbian films featured eign companies. ment, Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić Exploitation in Serbia”, told BIRN signed a cooperation at this year’s Berlinale. Ljuca argues this Subsidies are often given too easily, said the project was in the highest na- that all countries in the region th “T agreement on March 29 . was a huge success for Serbia and its without a proper cost-benefit analysis,” tional interest, arguing that the Water- are competing to attract foreign The agreement is intended film scene. Kovačević told BIRN. front would create many new jobs and companies by offering more and to address the support and Ivana NIKOLIĆ While Ljuca sees Berlin as a true “Some of those huge subsidies are boost tourism and service providers. more incentives, which is lead- protection of children who ‘springboard’ for his future and the fu- not precisely defined. They are also The project drew strong criticism, ing to a “race to the bottom”. are working and living in ikola Ljuca’s debut fea- ture of his film, he doesn’t downplay not limited to financial assistance,” he however, while many legal experts He also said that some com- the street. “This is very ture film ‘Humidity’- the significance of premiering the film added. claimed that the deal with Eagle Hills, a panies condition their arrival Ljuca is Serbia’s award-winning film director. important for us because ‘Vlažnost’ in Serbian in front of domestic audiences at FEST. He notes that Serbia often offers for- company in the , in Serbia on working in a “free the wealth of a society and - was a critical smash. CHALLENGING that he had to work several ‘gigs’ while “[While] those things, Berlinale and eign investors free land and assistance was unconstitutional because it sus- zone” and some that have been a city is measured by the The film, a dramatic ECONOMICS writing his own ‘Humidity’ script. FEST, cannot be compared, they are in clearing the land for construction. pended Serbian laws on the Belgrade operating in Serbia for years help it provides to those in mystery about the dis- Another major fundraising challenge equally important. Those two are the Serbia has been using subsidies to Waterfront territory. subsequently arrange to work in need,” Mali told Serbian Nappearance of a young, successful busi- Ljuca took a laborious, slow route for filmmakers is RTS, the Serbian na- best we could get of two worlds [inter- lure foreign investors since 2006, but “free zones”. media. nessman’s wife, won four prizes at this to get ‘Humidity’ produced, partly be- tional public broadcaster, and commer- national and domestic film scene],” many economic experts think they do SUBSIDIES ABOLISHED AND Kovačević argues offering subsidies in “free zones” Photo: Media Centre Belgrade “We have some companies year’s 44th International Film Festival cause of the challenging financial situ- cial television stations' reluctance to help Ljuca explains. more damage than good, since the state THEN RESTORED undermines free market competition. that have their own private ‘free Belgrade’s in Belgrade, FEST: Best Film, Best Direc- ation for filmmakers in Serbia. filmmakers with money or equipment. But there are lots of differences be- ends up giving the investors more mon- the first year in which they report tax- euro a month, according to the analysis zone’. We even had a case of a photography tion, Best Actor and Best Director. “In Serbia there is not so much mon- Filmmakers are left on their own tween the two ‘worlds,’ Ljuca notes. ey than they bring in. Serbia began using subsidies to at- able profit if they invest at least some by Anadolu news agency conducted foreign company in one of the month to last “These prizes are actually a seal of ap- ey and with the budget you do have it is without access to the production and While in Berlin talking to the audiences Experts also say the law gives the tract investors in 2006 when the Fi- nine million euros in fixed assets, and at the end of 2015. The highest average free zones leasing its site to an- until the end of proval. The reactions of the people [jury] not possible to make nothing else apart financial infrastructure that could sup- after the screening is a normal thing, government too much arbitrary power, nance Ministry under Mlađan Dinkić employ at least 100 additional employ- salary in 2015 in the Yugoslavia, €1,004, other company for its business,” Apri ‘hey this is good and what you are doing from low-budget films,” Ljuca said. port a nascent film industry. But that’s a it is only appearing now in Serbia. He creating space for corruption and po- decided to lure investors with offers to ees throughout the investment period. was in Slovenia. Srećković recalled. is good’ is important, and important for It took Ljuca years to raise enough situation that does not look to change experienced the difference firsthand litical abuse, since most such contracts pay €2,000 to €10,000 for each work- About 25 per cent of Serbs live in pov- April 2016 has been the future as well,” Ljuca told BIRN. money to produce ‘Humidity’. He start- any time soon. while traveling across Serbia showing are not transparent. place they created. IMPACT ON LIVING STAND- erty, while the rate of people who are designated “Belgrade’s Winning prizes and international ed co-writing the script in 2010 and be- “In Serbia TVs really very seldom ac- the film. The government made the contract The investor had to fulfil certain con- ARDS QUERIED at risk of poverty or social exclusion Photo Month”, an recognition are a source of pride for gan fundraising shortly thereafter. He cept that idea and become co-produc- He recalls that when they were with Meita Europe public only after the ditions regarding the level of investment hovers at around 43 per cent in 2014, ac- international photography directors but they don’t solve chronic stitched funding together from co-pro- ers,” Ljuca says. showing the film throughout Serbia, media portal Istinomer demanded this and a minimum number of employees. The Development Agency of Serbia, cording to Serbia’s Statistical Office. festival featuring work problems at home. ducers in and the Netherlands Changing that could pay off in pres- people told him that no one would for months, with the help of the com- The practice was abolished in late RAS, says Serbia has attracted over “Subsidies need to be time-bounded. from both domestic and While Ljuca has garnered accolades as well Eurimages – the European Cin- tige—and profit—for Serbia. stay after the screening and talk to the missioner for freedom of information. 2013 when Saša Radulović, Minister of €25 billion of foreign direct investment After an investor takes all the money DUTCH foreign photographers. for his work, it was a long, daunting ema Support Fund over the years but it A new financial incentive could help filmmakers and actors. But it was not The contract showed that the com- Economy, said it was the wrong way to since 2000. and after the mandatory number of TOP THE LIST OF Visitors to 20 locations journey to get the film made: a chronic was never quite enough to get the film change the filmmaking here. Serbia’s like that. pany was not obliged to create 1,400 stimulate economic development. Although the subsidies have thus years they have to stay expires, nobody INVESTORS throughout the city will shortfall of money and a lack of con- off the ground. Film Centre will start awarding compet- “People actually stayed and the con- new jobs, as Belgrade city officials had The ministry revealed that of the shown some results, experts doubt can force them to remain,” Đogović be able to see exhibitions, sistent support prolonged the process It wasn’t until 2013 when he received itive development grants to filmmakers versations lasted for around 45 min- claimed, but only 770, by 2021. 55,000 jobs agreed with investors, only they have had much of an effect on liv- said. In terms of the country struc- participate in workshops for several years. The stress of it was so funding from Serbia’s Film Centre, a that this year will give winning scripts utes to one hour, until the organisers “There was no calculation of what 16,097 people had been hired. ing standards. Research done in 2010 by the Nation- ture, as of 2005, investors from and lectures, watch agonizing that he ended up with severe state institution supporting the film in- €3,500 – ‘money that can make your life threw us out of the theatre,” he says, would Serbia gain, what the value of the The ministry also noted that while Some believe that paying companies al Alliance for Economic Development, the top the list. films and have their own stomach problems by the time the film dustry, that he was able to finally start easier,’ Ljuca adds. happily. gain would be, while at the same time SIEPA, Export and Foreign Investment “big money’ is a poor development NALED, showed that 38 per cent of the The leading country on the list photographic portfolios was finished. filming in 2014. “Art has to be financed. We are not a “[In Berlin] that is the most normal there was a lot of space for possible Promotion Agency, had reviewed de- model in the long run and needs to be 130 interviewed investors in Serbia is The Netherlands, followed reviewed by renowned It’s a path he hopes will get easier for Ljuca explains directors in Serbia big market, not so many people speak thing, that it [conversation with the pub- corruption,” Kovačević said, urging the tails of many of the investments, their replaced by robust business regula- evaluated the importance of subsidies by Austria, Greece, and domestic and foreign future Serbian filmmakers but it will need ‘a system where they will have our language and our film industry can- lic] lasts a lot, as that is part of culture. state to draw up detailed cost-benefit reports had been largely ignored. tions, judicial stability and independ- as a maximum rate of ten, which means Luxembourg. photographers. require the considerable investment of time and money to write the scripts not live without the help of state funds,” But here that is not happening yet,” he analyses for such projects in future. In its 2013 report, the Ministry of ent state institutions. it was “a factor of crucial importance”. Other major investors include resources. and to work on them,’ while recalling Ljuca says. concludes. Economy said that in 78 cases, con- Serbia registered €1.8 billion of FDI Jelena Bojović, director for regula- Germany, , Slovenia and INCENTIVES CONCEALED tracts with investors were expanded in 2015. This was €300 million higher tory reform in NALED, told BIRN that . The actual amount of FROM PUBLIC through annexes without the use of than 2014, according to the National subsidies can be effective if decisions US investment is significantly any criteria or standards. Deadlines to Bank of Serbia, but still much less than are made on the basis of a prepared higher than the official figures Lack of transparency is perceived as meet obligations had been prolonged the peak year of 2011, when it reached analysis of costs and benefits. suggest because US companies ucked away in one of Belgrade’s oratory where the Dervish order gathered, lived and one of the biggest problems concerning and details of payments of some of the €3.5 billion, the best FDI year since the She thinks they can be useful “if the invest primarily through Euro- oldest and most charming neighbor- performed religious rituals. This cultural monument the incentives for investors. incentives had been changed. crisis started in 2008. effects of incentives are clearly calcu- pean affiliates. This also holds hoods is a building that perfectly was abandoned for a long time, but was reconstructed Nemanja Nenadić, programme di- However, in October 2015, the gov- Saša Đogović, from the Institute for lated”. for Belgium, Denmark, and evokes the city’s historic connection in 2013 thanks to a donation from the Turkish agency rector of the watchdog Transparency ernment passed a new Law on Invest- Market Research, told BIRN that relying She stresses that there is ambiva- other countries. to the Orient. The turbe of Sheikh for international cooperation and development (TIKA). Serbia, told BIRN that the government ments, which restored the system of on big subsidies as a model cannot put lence over subsidies everywhere in the Over the past ten years, Mustafa is a mausoleum located on An inscription on the plaque above the entrance iden- hides behind claims of “investments of subsidizing jobs. the economy on healthy foundations. world, noting the importance of trans- service sectors have proven VišnjićevaT Street in Belgrade. tifies the turbe as the resting place of Sheikh Mustafa strategic importance” to avoid regula- According to the law, users of grants “If subsidies were a good economic parency in the process. the most attractive to interna- Turbe is the Turkish word for "tomb". It is often used Bagdađanin from the Dervish order. Also entombed tions. are required to provide at least 25 per strategy, we would have seen some im- The European Bank for Reconstruc- tional investors. Banking and to describe the characteristic mausoleums, often sur- in the turbe are dervishes Orsan Mehmed-Baba and He cites the Belgrade Waterfront pro- cent of the eligible costs from their own pact on living standards,” he said. tion and Development, EBRD, in Feb- insurance recorded the largest prisingly modest, of Ottoman royalty and notables. Hatenceli chief Haji Omerbaba. ject as a striking example of arbitrari- resources or from other sources that do “Subsidies are like a vitamin injection ruary said Serbia made significant FDI inflow, of five billion euros. The mausoleum is close to the Studentski Trg and The shape of the turbe resembles a tent from pre- ness and non-transparency in which not contain state grants. - they cannot cure Serbian economy,” economic progress last year, but said Manufacturing industries held Kalemegdan. It is one of many Ottoman buildings that Islamic times. The stone building is a regular hexagon “procedures were completely hidden Depending on the development of Đogović added, noting that there are no many more investments were needed the second spot with €4.8 billion, shape about 5 meters on each side. The interior is can be discovered by visitors who keep their eyes from the public. the municipality and the scope of in- guarantees that investors will not leave to secure sustainable growth. followed by wholesale, retail and decorated with writings from the Koran, while in the open. “Strategically important investments vestment, the company can get from Serbia when they get better financial “A fair, transparent and predictable repair of motor vehicles and real The turbe was built in 1784 by the Hasni Efendi middle of the room is a covered sarcophagus that

Hidden Belgrade should be exception from the rule, but €3,000 to €7,000 per created job. terms elsewhere. environment is critical for attracting in- estate activities. (deputy vizier), and it was a part of a "tekija", an Islamic marks the grave. in Serbia exceptions have become the Companies are exempt from corpo- Serbia meanwhile has the lowest av- vestors,” the head of the EBRD office in rule,” Nenadić said. rate profit tax for ten years starting from erage salaries in the region of only 361 Serbia, Daniel Berg, said. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 9 REGION OUT AND ABOUT

Kayak Hate speech adventures with Wild ‘thriving’ in Serbia Bulgarian Whether you’re interested in Serbian history, media wildlife and ecology, or history Hate speech targeting the Roma and architecture, minority, refugees and migrants Wild Serbia has significantly increased in the offers a kayaking Bulgarian media and on social experience unlike networks over the past year, a new any other in the capital. study says.

Filip AVRAMOVIĆ Maria CHERESHEVA said Orlin Spassov, the executive direc- tor of Media Democracy. Wild Serbia’s tour around the War here has been an up- The two NGOs interviewed 30 jour- Island in Belgrade is a great way for surge of hate speech in nalists and experts and monitored the visitors to experience Belgrade’s the Bulgarian media, Bulgarian media for hate speech in local wildlife and to see some of the mainly targeting the 2015 and at the beginning of 2016 for 200 species of birds that make their Roma minority, refu- their study, entitled ‘Hate Speech in home here. gees and migrants, says Bulgaria: Risk Zones and Vulnerable Ta study by the Sofia-based Media De- Objects’. The company’s kayaking tours offer mocracy and the Centre for Political Among television stations, the main a getaway from the streets and out Modernisation, published on March conduits for discriminatory language into the wild, all without straying 28th. are the two party-run channels, Alpha too far from the city centre. According to the study, the use of ag- and SKAT, where hate speech is used gressively discriminatory language has even during the news programmes, it Bulgarians campaigning against hate speech in Sofia. Photo: Fickr/No Hate Movement Wild Serbia’s Ivan Nastić says that become even more commonplace in says. this is an innovative alternative online and tabloid media than on two But hate speech is also penetrating in the study, followed by refugees (73 and politicians have also been guilty, He argued that anti-liberal commen- way for visitors to be introduced Bulgarian TV stations which are owned the studios of the national television per cent), LGBT men and people from the study says. tators were responsible because “anti- to a European capital city. "This is by the far-right political parties Alpha stations, mostly via guests on morning the Middle East in general (70 per cent Georgi Lozanov, the former president liberalism believes that hate speech is a totally unique way for people to and SKAT and are known for their ideo- talk-shows, it claims. each). of the State Council for Electronic Me- something fair”. get familiar with Belgrade," he says. logical bias. “The problem is that the hosts make Also targeted are human rights activ- dia, also expressed concern that hate In order to combat the trend, the two "Our customers are able to experi- From mid-April to late May, 20 kayakers from across Europe will paddle along 16 threatened rivers in six Balkan countries. Photo: balkanrivers.net The study suggests that website own- discriminatory remarks without any ists, with their work campaigning for speech was on the rise in the country. NGOs have launched an informal coali- ence a bit of nature in the wild while ers see hate speech as a tool to increase reaction,” it says. minorities’ rights attracting derision. “There is a trend towards the normal- tion of organisations called Anti Hate, remaining in the heart of a major traffic. The most common victims of hate The main purveyors of hate speech isation of hate speech. My feeling is that aimed at increasing public sensitivity city. " “This type of language has been speech are the Bulgarian Roma, men- are commenters on social networks the situation is out of control,” Lozanov to the spread of aggressive discrimina- turned into a commercial practice,” tioned in 93 per cent of the cases cited and football hooligans, but journalists said. tion. The company offers a variety of tours, so finding a kayaking excur- Kayakers front sion to your liking is not difficult. "Besides the War Island tour, there is a Danube eco tour and a Sava Romania to identify River bridges tour," says Nastić. "The eco tour lets customers experi- campaign to save ence nature close-up. We go from the War Island to Ada Huja, where pre-paid simcard buyers visitors can try some of the organic food we offer. " In a move aimed Marian CHIRIAC clear connection between them and re- Balkan rivers cent attacks in Paris and Brussels. On other tours, people can experi- omanian telecommuni- The SRI is a supporter of the pro- ence architecture and get familiar at boosting cations minister Marius posed law aimed at identifying the us- Katarina PANIĆ along 16 threatened rivers in six Balkan “The small hydropower plant at Med- with the city’s geography while Bostan said on March ers of pre-paid cards; it has often asked Environmen- countries from the Sava in Slovenia to na is on our black list and its environ- touring the Sava River. The Six security amid th 28 that draft legisla - for more instruments to allow it to more talist groups ourt cases, evidence of the Vjosa in Albania. ment assessment study is being ana- Bridges tour offers a lot of informa- fears about tion to compel all pre- closely monitor the security situation. flawed or false construc- The activists say that some 2,700 hy- lysed,” a WWF official told BIRN. tion to those who wish to learn paid simcard purchas- Romania has tried to impose a simi- are preparing a tion permits, poorly dropower plants are due to be built in The Coalition for Sana, a network of more about Belgrade’s building Rers to reveal their identities will be sent lar law twice in the past. compiled or non-existent the coming years from Slovenia to Al- 23 citizens associations, plus the local style over the years. terrorism, to parliament soon. The first time was in 2012, following a unique paddling environmental impact bania without any apparent regard for municipality of Ribnik, has been cam- Romania is to “It says that people purchasing pre- terrorist attack in Burgas in neighbour- assessment studies and a protected areas, endangered species or paigning against the plant for the last "People who are not nature enthusi- paid cards will have to submit their per- ing Bulgaria, but the law was rejected Crange of other problems have failed to halt for local communities. seven years. Marking World Water Day asts can go on a kayak tour and take sonal data to the authorities,” Bostan by parliament. tour of threat- the construction of a series of small hydro- In a drive to preserve Europe’s last 2016 on March 22nd, the Coalition for a closer look at the bridges on the adopt a law said. In 2014, a new law was proposed by power plants across the Western Balkans. clean rivers, the organizations are pre- Sana reiterated that the hydropower Sava River," Nastić says. "They can “We have to regulate this, as there are country’s Supreme Defence Council, ened Balkan While these plants are mainly seen paring several events that will be organ- plant is bad news for both people and get familiar with local architecture preventing a large number of crime which have using the argument that a large number through a positive prism as offering a ized on 11 different rivers in the region in nature. and will also pass near Savamala, been committed with the use of pre- of financial crimes have been commit- rivers, to raise quick financial benefit as well as a long- a month’s time. As a result, the network has joined the culture centre of the city." people who buy paid cards,” he added. ted with the use of pre-paid cards. term solution to Europe’s growing need The Europe-wide campaign, dubbed the coalition of international NGOs, On March 27th Prime Minister Dacian The bill was approved by both par- awareness about for renewable energy, their negative im- “Save the Blue Heart of Europe”, in- calling on civil society groups across Prices range from €20 to €30 per pre-paid mobile- Ciolos said in a television interview liamentary chambers but later rejected pact on local ecological systems is often cludes some of the leading interna- the region to engage in the issue. person. that pre-paid cards from Romania have by the Constitutional Court. the dangers in ignored. tional environmentalist organizations, “We would like to invite you to a phone simcards been used in “the preparation of some Critics say that a law identifying peo- This is especially so in the Balkans, such as EuroNatur, RiverWatch, Lee- very unusual protest action led by the Anyone can participate, the terrorist attacks in Europe”. ple holding pre-paid cards will violate the mass con- home to some of Europe’s last clean riv- way Collective and WWF. former Slovenian Olympic athlete Rok company says, even those with no from remaining Ciolos did not offer any further de- people's fundamental right to privacy ers in pristine surroundings. One of the rivers included in this pro- Rozman,” the press release from River- boating experience. Every tour has tails. but will not curb crime. struction of hy- Now, a group of environmental as- gram is the Sana in Bosnia Herzegovina, Watch, published last week, said. professional guides and equipment, anonymous. However, the Romanian Intelligence “The government should explain fur- sociations from across the region and where the Austrian-German energy “The so-called 'Balkan Rivers Tour' and the company notes that kayaks Service, SRI, confirmed on March 28th ther why such a law is necessary. There is dropower plants. elsewhere in Europe has launched an company KELAG is building a dam is an activity against the dam tsunami, are pretty hard to capsize anyway. that such simcards are often used in no clear evidence that retaining the per- awareness campaign, to bring this issue even though a number of related legal which is threatening to destroy the Syria and Iraq. sonal data of pre-paid card holders will into focus. cases are pending and although NGOs unique river landscape of the Balkan Wild Serbia’s kayak season lasts The SRI said that several people were diminish criminal activity in Romania,” From mid-April to late May, 20 kay- as well as local communities oppose Peninsula,” the press release conclud- until the second half of October. under surveillance but so far there is no military analyst Cornel Codita has said. akers from across Europe will paddle the project. ed. Photo: gadget.ro 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 11 ARTS DINING OUT

Dance Festival rolls ground. He has been an innovator in elec- on with German tronic music and beyond for more than “Primate Trilogy” two decades.” Known for an incredibly dizzy and Vlad's plum One of the more interesting dense form of music that combines drum upcoming performances of the and bass with acid jazz and other genres dumplings at breakneck speed, Jenkinson is one of ongoing Belgrade Dance Festival Arts in brief is “The Primate Trilogy” by the true innovators and legends at the heart of Britain’s groundbreaking Warp Germany’s Forsythe Company. INGREDIENTS Records. An exceptional bass player and The dance aims to highlight the musical visionary, Squarepusher is treat- 1 kg white potatoes complex relationship between ing the Resonate crowd to an extensive DJ 1 tablespoon margarine movement and perception. It will set that will combine his relentlessly awe- 2 eggs be performed at Sava Centre inspiring music with cutting-edge visuals. 700g flour st 500g plums, pitted April 1 at 8pm. Tickets cost €15 The second headline artist to be fea- to €18. Bread crumbs, oil tured at Resonate will be Omar Souley- Sugar and cinnamon as needed man, a Syrian keyboardist and musician th 4 International who combines ancient traditions with DIRECTIONS Accordion Festival contemporary technology. His incred- at Guarnerius ibly complex music is full of polyrhythms 1. Peel the potatoes. Boil in salted and oriental modes, yet remains irresist- water until cooked and mash. Belgrade’s popular accordion ibly danceable. Souleyman has garnered 2. Add margarine and stir, then festival, MehFest, will be held Resonate celebrates rave reviews for a creative take on Middle add eggs and stir until well mixed. April 2nd and 3rd at Guarnerius th Eastern music that takes listeners to an Hall. MehFest features more than unfamiliar world of sound. 3. Add flour. Turn out the mixture 100 accordion players compet- 5 anniversary “Serbians who enjoy ethnic wedding onto a floured surface and knead ing in 15 categories. Awards will music in the streets every summer will it thoroughly. be presented by professors from recognize a kindred spirit in Souleyman,” Serbia’s most prestigious musical Garčević says. “He could almost play at 4. Use a rolling pin to roll the with spectacular dough 1 cm thick. institutions to the best players to Guca. When he burst onto the scene two years ago he made quite a splash, attract- perform on Saturday and Sunday. ing collaborators like Bjork who couldn’t 5. Cut the dough into squares and wrap each one around a plum. lineup wait to work with him.” 38th annual Daniel Miller, a Resonate featured performer. Photo: Flickr/IntangibleArts It's not all dancing, however. The or- 6. Boil the dumplings one by one Architecture Salon ganisers of Resonate don’t allow the mu- kicks off in lightly salted water. The dump- This Belgrade-based festival as machine learning and open develop- sic festival to stray too far from the edu- lings are done when they float to ment frameworks to tips and practical cational programme. That’s why Hans the surface. The Belgrade Museum of Applied demonstrations for building your own Joachim Roedelius, a pioneer of ambient th combines lectures on tech topics Art will be the venue for the 38 synthesizer using cheap analogue elec- music, will combine the two. Before he 7. Fry breadcrumbs in oil until annual Architecture Salon. The with a full programme of avant-garde tronic components. launches into his performance of genre- toasted. Add the dumplings to the exhibition includes submissions Cutting-edge in every sense, Reso- bending ‘Krautrock”, Roedelius will de- frying pan and roll them around until they are coated. from the brightest and most inno- electronic music. nate has become an invaluable meeting liver a lecture on the introduction and vative architectural minds in the ground for people interested in mod- expansion of electronics in the world of 8. Arrange the dumplings on a region. Architects submitted their David GALIĆ arts presentations complement the tech- ern technology, music, visuals, and the pop music. plate and sprinkle with sugar and works for inclusion in March, with nology workshops in a unique way.” emerging worldwide digital culture. Ac- Another artist who straddles the cinnamon. selected projects being presented clectic acid jazz, ground- Resonate is the first of eight 2016 arts cording to Garčević, even the first year’s worlds of technology and music is Ra- during the event. It’s all on display breaking DJ performances festivals to be supported by We Are Eu- festival drew attendees from , shad Becker, who has worked as a record- 9. Allow to cool to room tempera- at the Museum of Applied Art, and polyrhythmic music rope, an association that is intended to South America, Russia, western Europe, ing engineer and vinyl cutter at the famed ture before serving. Vuka Karadžića 18, until April 30th. mixing ancient Syrian tra- mobilise the energy of European events, the , and Asia. Berlin Dubplates & Mastering company ditions with cutting-edge both festivals and forums, supporting The festival is expertly curated every since 1995. th electronic instruments will European culture, high artistic standards, year. Resonate books not just big names “It’s always good energy,” Garčević says. 17 International th highlightE Resonate 2016 starting 12 April cultural innovation and creation. The as- in the world of underground music, but “People from all over the world meet at Cooking is a family affair at Vladimir Gurbaj's Serbian Traditional Cooking School. Photo: Vladimir Gurbaj Archaeological Film Festival begins at film at multiple Belgrade locations. sociation hopes to develop a distinctly also lesser-known musicians who are the lectures and on the dance floor. The Launched five years ago as Belgrade’s European vision of electronic and digital pushing the boundaries and limits of their energy exchange is what makes Reso- archive entry on the global tech-event map, Reso- cultures, cultural entrepreneurship, inno- genres. “Our goal is to be creative first, not nate special.” nate 2016 will include presentations at vation and new technology. necessarily commercial,” Garčević says. Tickets for Resonate Live cover admis- Crazy for archaeology? Then the Ilija M. Korarac Endowment, Dom Resonate Live, the musical pro- “Our role is to introduce the audience to sion to many of the debates, discussions you won’t want to miss the Omladine, the Parabrod cultural centre, gramme, perfectly reflects the festival’s new sounds, to be eastern Europe’s larg- and workshops of the conference and International Archaeological Film and the Yugoslav Film Archive. mixed technology-and-music identity. est and most important event for avant- vice versa. Single-night tickets are also th Homemade Serbia Festival, running until April 7 at Technology festivals have blossomed Rather than including music as a respite garde popular music.” available. The nonmusical part of the the Yugoslav Film Archive. Organ- all over the globe in recent years. Reso- from high-technology seminars and Squarepusher is one of the headliners conference features guest speakers from izers say this year’s special guest nate is unique because of its location and workshops, the artists performing at at this year’s Resonate Live. Squarepush- around the world delivering more than “I like to explain all the foreign influ- with a veal or pork cutlet that is stuffed Pomar prefers to teach in students’ book’s Belgrade Foreign Visitors Club country will be Cyprus. There will because the tech programme is paired Resonate represent the same spirit of in- er (real name Tom Jenkinson) has been 20 lectures and a dozen workshops. For Cooking classes ences on Serbian food,” Pomar says. “For with kajmak. The dish was created by own kitchens when possible. “I have group. be 20 films shown, coming from with a full-blown music festival. “Our novation on which the entire conference releasing music professionally since the a full list of presentations, visit the Reso- example, in northern regions of Vojvo- Marshal Tito's chef to honour a visiting found it more productive,” she says. “Cooking with a local friend is a great ten different countries, including concept is to combine electronic music is built. mid-1990s. “Squarepusher is a perfect nate website: www.resonate.io. offer a taste of dina, where I come from, there is a Ger- Soviet official in 1959, and it has become “People learn better if they are in the way to learn,” Gurbaj says, “not just Italy, , Cyprus, Turkey, Greece, with emerging technology,” says Reso- Resonate speakers cover a wide range match for Resonate,” Garčević says. “He’s But hurry up, because both the confer- man influence. People like to add a bit a classic part of Serbian cuisine.” comfort of their own environment.” about food, but about culture, about life Belgium and more. nate communications director Barbara of topics in contemporary technology. Di- old-school but he’s still innovating. He ence and festival sell out every year, and Balkan culture, of sugar or fruit with meat. In southern Students also cook pasulj (baked She recommends individual and small- in the spot you’re visiting.” Garčević. “The music programme and verse workshops cover topics as diverse has somehow managed to remain under- 2016 should be no different. Serbia, people would be appalled at the beans), a selection of Serbian salads, group classes. “Any more than that, cuisine. idea of mixing sweet and salty flavours and plum dumplings or apple cake for and somebody doesn’t get to knead the in the same dish.” dessert. “When the meal is done we all dough!” she says. SERBIAN TRADITIONAL Pomar likes to include regional cui- eat together and talk about the recipes Like Gurbaj, Pomar starts with a trip COOKING SCHOOL J.D. HILDEBRAND sine tastings for students in her classes. and Serbian culture,” Gurbaj says. “We to the market. “I explain about ingredi- “Pršut from Užice, Montenegro and Dal- charge €30 per participant, with dis- ents and help foreigners figure out what Vladimir Gurbaj here’s no bet- matia vary a lot in flavour and texture, counts for groups.” substitutions they can make so they can +381 65 8487 225 ter way to learn and they are all different from the šunka The Serbian Traditional Cooking prepare the same dishes when they re- serbiancookingexperience@ about a country served in Vojvodina. It’s all smoked ham, School has an indoor alternative class- turn home from Serbia.” gmail.com and its culture but every locale has a distinct flavour.” room for bad weather, but Gurbaj pre- Pomar draws upon her experience as €30 per 3-4 hour lesson than to experi- Gurbaj and Pomar both offer cooking fers the garden. For that reason, classes a language instructor and translator to Bregovita 19, Zemun ence its cuisine,” classes to individuals and small groups. are held from mid-April to early October, teach cooking students some Serbian “Tsays Vladimir Gurbaj, proprietor of Gurbaj’s Serbian Traditional Cooking with a break during the winter. along the way. Lily Pomar Serbian Traditional Cooking School in School convenes at an outdoor grill in a Lily Pomar is happy to recommend Pomar charges €12 per hour for les- [email protected] Zemun. It is a philosophy he’s put into Zemun garden. a traditional menu, but she finds that sons, but offers a discount rate of 10€ €12per hour, discount practice in both his professional and “My goal is for classes to be informal, many students come to her with specif- to students who are members of Face- for BGFVC members personal life. relaxed, and fun,” Gurbaj says. “We meet ic requests. “Often they’ve had a meal in “I’ve travelled extensively,” Gurbaj in Zemun and visit the shops together a restaurant or at a dinner party,” Pomar says, “and I always try to squeeze in a lo- so students can experience the farmer's says, “and they want to learn to cook ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ cal cooking class if I can.” On a recent trip market. Then class begins. It's not like that particular meal.” ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” to Bangkok, he says, he devoted three a school - it's more like cooking with a For that reason, Pomar customises RESTURANT KOVAČ days to purchasing, discussing, cooking, friend. We cook a good meal and eat it the menu for each student, accommo- modern ethno restaurant and eating traditional Thai dishes with together. Every student leaves with a dating vegetarian diets, food allergies, a local teacher. “It was a revelation,” he booklet of recipes.” and so on. She is happy to arrange single remembers. The Serbian Traditional Cooking sessions or multiple-day courses that Experiences like that have inspired School’s primary offering is a four-hour cover a wide range of dishes. “Some stu- Gurbaj and a handful of other entrepre- class in which foreigners cook and eat dents just want to learn to make sarma neurs to offer classes in Serbian cooking traditional Serbian foods. or pasulj,” she says, “while others want to English-speaking foreigners. “No matter what else we cook, we a 20-day full course in Serbia cuisine. Belgrade-based cooking teacher Lily always make ćevapi,” Gurbaj says. “We I’m happy to brainstorm with them and Pomar says food can help newcomers also make Karađorđeva šnicla, which is come up with a set of recipes to meet Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com to acquire a sense of place. a variation on chicken Kiev that is made their needs.” 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT

Serbia’s CLUBBING female AND LIVE MUSIC band breaks record erbian basketball star Nataša st nd th th th FRIDAY APRIL 1 SATURDAY APRIL 2 THURSDAY APRIL 7 TUESDAY APRIL 12 THURSDAY APRIL 14 Kovačević attended a March 30th awards ceremony where girl • V!bes, Grad Cultural Centre, • Sirup Takeover – Miss • R&B Thursday Delight, • Diesel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, • R&B Thursday Delight, band Frajle was recognized as Braće Krsmanović 4, 10pm Sunshine, Arsen Pavešić, Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm S a top-selling artist for its 2015 album, “B • Art Department, Oxia, Filip Xavi, Drugstore, Bulevar • For Old Times Sake, Tranzit • Frank Turner and The • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Side of Love”. Kovačević was seriously Belgrade Fairgrounds, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Bar, Braće Krsmanović 8, 10pm Sleeping Souls, Ducking Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, injured in a deadly car accident in 2013 Vojvode Mišića 14, 11pm • Techno Drive vol. 2 – Billy • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Punches, Magacin Depo, 11pm but has resumed playing basketball • Berlin Wall – Underground Nasty and Nikola Gala, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Travnička 3, 9pm • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, after having her leg amputated below Techno, Magacin Depo, Magacin Depo, Travnička 3, 11pm Karađorđeva 23, 10pm the knee. Frajle has contributed to the th Travnička 3, 11pm 11pm • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, WEDNESDAY APRIL 13 • Let There Be Rock, KST, Fondacija Nataša Kovačević, a founda- • Smoking Beats, Elektropionir, • Kišobran Party, Dom Karađorđeva 23, 10pm Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, tion Kovačević launched to aid young Cetinjska 15, 11pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, • Bunt, KST, Bulevar Kralja • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr Stefan 11pm athletes. • Raze de Soire, Drugstore, 11pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 10pm Photo: Facebook Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, • Where House? Sunday Beat, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm FRIDAY APRIL 8th • Popi Divine and Soft 85, • Hana V. and the Soulfunk Šećer, Svetogorska 17, 11pm Division, Soul Society, • John Digweed, Guy J, Hangar, Famed • Jackie D, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, Drinčićeva 1, 11pm Belgrade Port, 11pm TRA T T O R I A 9pm • Schwabe All Night Long, • Marco Bailey, Monsun, theatre gets • Italo Disco Special with Lule, 2044 boat on Sava, 11pm Travnička 3, 11pm PIZZER I A Nixon Bar, Mišarska 7, 10pm • X Dream, Sioux, Skadarska 40, • Disco Not Disco present five comedy • Body and Balls/Trole and 11pm Faze Action, 2044 boat on Vlada Rus and Wolfgang, • Cheers to the Weekend, Sava, 11pm awards 2044 boat on Sava, 11pm Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • 90s, Plastic, Takovska 36, Nebojsina 8 • 90s, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm • It’s All About Music, 11pm 011/3863-999 • 1 on 1, Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Drugstore Play boat on Sava • 1 on 1, Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm [email protected] he Broken Jug” by Belgrade-based Yugo- • Flashback 90s and 2000s, river, 11pm • Flashback 90s and 2000s, www.restoranamici.rs Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, • DJ George and DJ Bole, Mr Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, slav Drama Theatre 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm won five prizes on “Tth th • Drugstore Play 2nd Bday 11pm • R&B and House Night, Beton, March 27 at the 45 “Comedy Days” Party, Drugstore Play, boat on • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm festival in the central city of Jago- Sava river, 11pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • DJ Marko Radosavljević dina. Nebojša Glogovac and Vladica • R&B and House Night, Beton, • Disco House, Beton, and DJ Boško Pešić, Mr KOLARAC Milosavljević were named best actors, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Igor Vuk Torbica was named best di- • DJ Marko Radosavljević and • Dooshan and Lady Dee, 11pm rector, while Jelisaveta Tatić Čuturilo DJ Boško Pešić, Mr Stefan Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, PROGRAMME and Branko Hojnik were named best Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Nineties, KST, Bulevar Kralja Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, costume designer and production • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Aleksandra 73, 10pm 10pm Nebojša Glogovac. Photo: Nenad Petrović designer. Vladica Milosavljević. Photo: Nenad Petrović Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, • Wolfram, Brigand, Grate, Pop • Chris Eckman and The 10pm Star, Božidarac, Radoslava Frictions, Elektropionir, FIRDAY, APRIL 1st Programme: R. Strauss: Don • Brkovi, Hala Sportova, Pariske Grujića 3, 8pm Cetinjska 15, 9pm Concert Hall, 8pm Juan Dance Komune 20, 8pm • Miško Plavi, Ilija M. Kolarac • Urban&4, And The Kid, Dom National Music Bruch: Violin Concerto No. 1 • Kralj Čačka, Mikser House, Endowment, Studentski Trg Omladine, Makedonska 22, P. I. Tchaikovsky: Symphony No. festival nd Karađorđeva 46, 9pm 5, 8pm 9pm SATURDAY, APRIL 2 6 (Pathetique) Concert Hall, 8pm Production: Belgrade attracts • Delta Moon, Cotton Pickers, • Nipple People, OUR Bar, First five years – Miško Plavi Trio Philharmonic orchestra th Dom Omladine, Makedonska Beogradska 71, 9pm SATURDAY APRIL 9 Vasil Hadžimanov, Džoni celebrities 22, 9pm • Lira Vega, Elektropionir, Dunkić SUNDAY, APRIL 10th • The Best Beat, Božidarac, Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Azax Syndrome Live, Imago Special guest: Slobodan Concert Hall, 11am Radoslava Grujića 3, 8pm • Vampiri, VIS Limunada, CUK, Dečanska 14, 11pm Trkulja America and Russia on the elgrade Dance Festival, Mikser House, Karađorđeva • Xperiment and Intellect Ticket Price: 800, 1000 rsd concert stage which kicked off on Boban Bjelić, accordion March 19th and is still 46, 9pm present Transient, Magacin rd SUNDAY, APRIL 3 Marija Đukić, piano ongoing, has been Depo, Travnička 3, 11pm Concert Hall, 11am Production: Music Centre rd B attracting lots of dance-lovers SUNDAY APRIL 3 • Multimadeira Party, 20/44 Piano duo Tamara Koročkin Admission free boat on Sava, 11pm and Andreas Schonhage from across Belgrade. While the • Viktor Savić and Guests, Mr. • Cheers to the Weekend, Programme: Moritz TUESDAY, APRIL 12th dance companies are filling the Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm Moszkowski, Fanny Hensel- Music Gallery, 6pm theatres with audiences, the 11pm • DJ George and DJ Bole, Mr Mendelssohn, Ervín Schulhoff, Biljana Valčić Bulatović, opening night gala attracted George Gershwin soprano • RnB Night, Cinema, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Serbian culture minister Ivan Production: Music Centre Ljiljana Božić, piano Tasovac, parliament president Gračanička 18, 11pm 11pm Admission free Programme: Gabriel Faure, • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, Henri Duparc, Maurice Ravel, Maja Gojković and Princess th th Jelisaveta Karađorđević. MONDAY APRIL 4 Karađorđeva 2, 11pm WEDNESDAY, APRIL 6 Francis Poulenc, Aja Jung, BDF director, and Tasovac. Maja Gojković and Princess Photo: Courtesy of BDF FREE COPY • Disco House, Beton, Music Gallery, 6pm Production: Music Centre Jelisaveta Karađorđević. • DJ George and Dalibor Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Katarina and Ljubica Duo Admission free Production: Music Centre Uhrik, Mr. Stefan Braun, • Dooshan and Lady Dee, th Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Admission free THURSDAY, APRIL 14 Nemanjina 4, 11pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • Ladies’ Night and RTS Symphonic Orchestra TUESDAY th , KST, Bulevar th Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 APRIL 5 Brit’n’Bass THURSDAY, APRIL 7 Young and Successful Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm Soloist: Milena Vilke, violin Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić • Diesel Party, Mr. Stefan • Bitipatibi, Kimekai, Belgrade Philharmonic Conductor: Stanko Jovanović BIRN editorial team: Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, Orchestra Programme: Tošić, Mozart, Conductor: Eiji Oue Mendelsohn Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, • Death DTA and Obscura, 9pm CITY GUIDE Available at: Soloist: Nemanja Production: RTS Dom Omladine, Makedonska Radulović, violin [email protected] 22, 9pm SUNDAY th Tourist Organisation of Belgrade APRIL 10 Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović • Hexvessel, Elektropionir, Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Viktor Savić and Guests, Mr. Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 Phone: +381 11 4030 302 Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, [email protected] APROPO WEDNESDAY APRIL 6th 11pm Hotel Moskva Bookstore and tearoom Subscription & Distribution: FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRADE Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 Cara Lazara 10 • RnB Night, Cinema, +381 11 2625839 Goran Knezevic • DJ Marko Radosavljević, Gračanička 18, 11pm FREE SIM CARD Hotel Excelsior Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • Despite Everything, Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 At the Belgrade Airport +381 11 4030 303 Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS 10pm Gnarlwolves, Fest, Gradski Supermarket concept store SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Hudson news odlasci / departures [email protected] • Local Music, KST, Bulevar Park 1, Zemun, 9pm Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 Hudson news dolasci / arrivals GUIDED TOURS THROUGH BELGRADE Hudson news čekiranje / check in Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm Hotel Townhouse 27 Hudson news transit zona / transit • Big Band RTS, Ilija M. Kolarac MONDAY APRIL 11th WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight Order online: Endowment, Studentski Trg RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Booking Rooms Hostel COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 5, 8pm • DJ George and Dalibor Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/ ENTERTAINMENT VALUE www.bookingrooms.rs Circulation: 4,000 • Jaguwar, Supermagic, The Uhrik, Mr. Stefan Braun, belgrade-city-guide Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs Phonerings, MKC Kombinat, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade Glavna 29, Zemun, 9pm Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 15 GOING OUT SPORT

"To build this stadium now means ruining the economy,” Kovačević said. “How are people supposed to watch the Belgrade’s Stadium game if they cannot afford a ticket and if their purchasing power decreases?" Kovačević believes that instead of next big construction spending €150 million on a football stadi- um for a national team that has not played in UEFA or FIFA competitions since the World Cup in 2010, Serbia should invest thing? plans hit by the amount into lowering taxes. around the central parking of Cetinjska "By lowering taxes, we can revive in- A huge new 15, Kenozoik is the most difficult of the dustry and the standard of living will three to find. To get in, you’ll need to criticism grow," Kovačević said. nightclub strip slide through several dark cavernous "[The government] boasts that we hallways and tunnels before you get have some of the lowest taxes in the re- that caters to a there. Serbian Prime "The stadium will have a capacity gion. That may be true, but we still have It's obvious that this address is going of 50,000 and will cost €150 million," a high number of taxes that add up to a younger crowd to be huge for party-goers this spring Minister Alek- Vladimir Kravčuk, adviser for strategic large amount," Kovačević added. and summer, so it's bizarre no one has projects, told the Belgrade-based news- The Football Association of Serbia is shaping up done anything about the lighting yet. It sandar Vučić paper Blic on March 26th. has not yet submitted an official pro- could be treacherous ground for club- "Near the stadium will be hotels and posal for the stadium project so far. to be one of the bers, especially those wearing heals, if announced the business objects that will be self-suffi- Both the Football Association and the the illumination is not improved upon. cient. We are only waiting for the con- ministry for youth and sports decline summer’s hottest Hopefully, we're going to get more light- construction of a struction permit," Kravčuk added. to comment on the stadium proposal ing in and around the parking lot, be- After the Serbian national football until a detailed project plan is present- spots. cause there's a lot of dark to traverse in national stadium team won against Albania in Elbasan ed. All that has happened so far is a se- order to get to Kenozoik. in 2015, Prime Minister Aleksander ries of announcements from the prime David GALIĆ Once inside, the first thing you'll notice in 2015, but not ev- Vučić said that the government will minister. is that Kenozoik is big. The room is huge invest €150 million in the construc- "The ministry for youth and sports he end of winter has by most Belgrade club standards even eryone agrees that tion of the stadium and surrounding does not comment on media labels be- been incredibly excit- though it's the smaller of two rooms in developments such as hotels and res- cause we have not received a concrete ing for Belgrade night- Kenozoik. What you'll take away visual- this is a good idea. taurants. project," the ministry’s public relations Vučić announced building of the national stadium back in 2014. Photo: Beta life thanks to a new ly from Kenozoik is that it truly is a club. "I am waiting for a project to be pre- service told BIRN. hub on Cetinjska Street Very industrial and dark, there aren't sented by the football association of argue that the money could be more measures that have been announced Some have argued that the money where clubs and bars many design details to notice. Filip AVRAMOVIĆ Serbia, and in a few years we will build useful if spent elsewhere. by the government. could better be spent on hospitals and Tare opening one after another. Perhaps The first room has a small bar in it and Kenozoik has the look and feel of a true nightclub. Photo: Facebook a national stadium that is supposed Economist Milan Kovačević says that "I do not see any austerity meas- schools, but Vučić said that nobody the biggest, and most impressive, so far you can leave your jackets at the end of he state-of-the-art sta- to repay itself. We will get the money he does not see logic behind this deci- ures. It was only announced. The should worry. is Kenozoik, the first true nightclub in the hall. In this room, you'll mostly hear really see anything other than a couple Belgrade Djs a billion times. If you are tions and film screenings. Drink prices dium – broadly sup- back by selling shirts and shorts from sion. "The stadium is not of high prior- Government is squandering money "We will invest money in the na- the area. electronic music. However, the main of disco balls hanging from the ceiling over 25-years-old you're probably sick are decent and there's usually no en- ported by Serbia’s gov- our sport stars, since I suppose we will ity because Serbia does not have that and just spending it more intensively," tional stadium, although I was already Regular readers of this column know area of the club has a different vibe. The and a large mass of people. There's very of these songs. trance fee. So if you're looking to check ernment - is intended to have valuable players in the future," the much money,” Kovačević told BIRN. Kovačević said. warned by wicked people that the that this area of the city centre is quick- bigger room is located on a lower level, little seating. If you get there early, you And although the clientele is mixed, out something new that could turn out be the largest and best Serbian Prime Minister told Jagodina- “We should invest in something else, An underperforming economy and money could be spent on hospitals and ly becoming Belgrade’s hippest new a basement area of sorts. You can get might be able to catch a free table, but most of the crowd is pretty young. You to be one of the hottest clubs in Bel- equipped in the region. based television Palma Plus in Decem- like industry. I do not know what will be high unemployment will surely affect schools. We will invest in both hospitals district. Five new spots have opened up there by going through a door and then don't count on it. might feel a bit old here if in your thir- grade this summer, give Kenozoik a try. TAccording to the latest details, officials ber last year. accomplished by this. We will not profit the profit the stadium is supposed to and schools, but we will invest it in the over the last several months in aban- taking a flight of metallic, very industri- There are bars on both sides of the ties. But what's cool is that there are If you don't like it, there's tons of other are waiting only for a construction per- Football players and fans look for- from this project." make, critics say, and investing €150 stadium as well, so we have an avenue doned buildings once owned by Bel- al-looking stairs down. room and servers walking around now four other clubs within 30 meters options to check out in this cool new mit to start building it in the Belgrade ward to seeing this grand plan trans- Kovačević argues that the stadium million will put a major dent in the for playing world and European com- grade beer makers. It’s a good idea to grab a drink in the taking drink orders, but as previously and you can head over to Polet or Za- section of the city centre. neighbourhood of Zemun. formed into reality, but some experts project is inconsistent with austerity state's budget. petitions for years to come," Vučić said. We've already talked about Zaokret first room before you head downstairs, mentioned, the service really was not okret if the crowd doesn’t suit you. and Polet, which are both very hip where the crowd is usually bigger and that great in either case. You are usually If you want to check it out, the club Kenozoik locales, but Kenozoik is truly a night- the staff is definitely a little slow and -un going to hear pop and rock music in the is open on Thursday, Friday and Sat- Address: Cetinjska 15a club in every sense of the word. While receptive. This basement area is truly large club. We are talking very commer- urday. During the week, Kenozoik will Contact: all of these clubs and bars are located massive. It's pretty dark, so you won't cial music that you've heard played by sometimes be open for cultural promo- [email protected] Serbian U17 team qualifies for Simply Red Atlanta’s Delta announced as Moon promoting new the European Championship second Belgrade album at Dom Filip AVRAMOVIĆ Under-17 Championship in 2013. Stefan Ilić put his name on the the last decade. After the Serbian The young national team secured scoresheet again in a 2:1 win against Serbia hosted the U17 European Calling headliner Omladine U20 national football erbia’s under-17 national a spot in the elite round by winning Poland on March 30th, with Armin Championship in 2011, but failed to team qualified for the their first two qualifying games Đerlek also putting one in the back of capitalize on the home field advan- wo hours of new and classic hits from famed tlanta blues band Delta Moon is coming to Belgrade team won the World European Champion- against Poland and Ireland. Serbia the net for the Serbian team. tage. British pop group Simply Red are on tap for to give Serbian listeners a taste of “Low Down,” one of ship held in will play its last qualifying game Head coach Ilija Stolica has taken Current World Cup U17 holders attendees at the Belgrade Calling music fest on the most critically acclaimed blues records of 2015. Cup in 2015 in New in May. Serbia joins ten against Montenegro on April 2nd, but advantage of domestic talent, add- France won after beating Germany in June 23rd. Organizers say the band will draw The band’s founders, Tom Gray and Mark Johnson, Zealand, another teams already qualified the game’s result will not affect their ing only a few foreign players to the 2015 with the score of 4:1. from decades of iconic pop hits as it plays a full met at an Atlanta music shop in the late 1990s when forS the Elite round with the final four move to the Elite round. team’s roster. The Spanish and German teams are Tset for local fans. GrayA tried to sell a Dobro guitar to Johnson in the parking lot. They qualifiers to be determined by mid- The Serbian team, popularly called Most of the players rose out of the heavily favoured in the tournament, youth team sets Simply Red recently re-formed after taking a hiatus from 2010 have been setting stages on fire together ever since with their hard- April. “Orlići“ (little eagles) started the quali- top youth academies in Serbia, and but the Serbian team is counting on to 2015. The Belgrade set will include songs from the new album, nosed but very melodic, sorrowful style of modern Delta blues. sights on a major Serbia’s youth team was knocked fications round with a 2:0 win against from clubs like Partizan, Red Star and their homegrown talent to follow in “Big Love” in addition to popular songs drawn from the band’s Opening the show will be Belgrade’s best blues band, The Cotton out of the Elite group phase the last Ireland on March 28th, with Stefan Ilić OFK Beograd, teams famous for pro- the U20 World Cup- winning foot- 30-year history, which saw it sell more than 55 million records. Pickers. The show is April 1st at Dom Omladine. Tickets are six euros international title. time it played in the UEFA European and Dejan Joveljić scoring. ducing top-notch youth players over steps of their compatriots. Tickets are €25 to €35. at the door.

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A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO Death to All pays OUR PREMIUM tribute to metal icon NEWS AND ANALYSIS CONTENT Death to All is an all-star band assem- IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE bled to pay tribute to the legendary for in-depth analysis, Chuck Schuldiner, one of the founding investigative reports, fathers and most innovative guitar- Finnish psych rock in Elektropionir features, interviews, ists and songwriters in the history of commentary and profiles metal. Schuldiner’s band, Death, was Looking for a reason to check out the Crust punk on the latest business and one of the most influential bands in the brand new rock club, Elektropionir? Frank Turner icons in Zemun Psychedelic trance political headlines. death metal genre. The Death for All Then head over to Cetinjska 15 on and Band at Magacin Depo from Israel at Imago band includes musicians that played April 5th to check out Hexvessel. This If you like a little crust punk to get the in Death during various points of critically acclaimed Finnish band plays British singer-songwriter Frank Turner, blood pounding, don’t miss Doom, one Premier psychedelic trance DJ Azax Schuldiner’s career. Opening the show a style of psychedelic rock that draws known for his energetic “acoustic punk” of the most influential crust punkers Syndrome, of Nutek Records fame, will will be German technical death metal direct influences from the 60s and 70s style, will be playing with his band the of all time. The group is playing at Klub play a live event at Imago CUK on April OTHER SERVICES: band Obscura. but still manages to carve a niche of its Sleeping Souls at Magacin Depo on Fest in Zemun Park on April 3rd at 9 pm. 9th. Opening the party will be local DJs own. Ticket prices are hilariously low; April 12th. Opening the show will be Supporting Doom will be local punk Milosh RELOAD and Daki and Kuzma The show is at Dom Omladine on April you can check out the show for just Ducking Punches from Norwich. Tick- and hardcore bands. Tickets cost 500 from the Digital Chemistry Collective. 5th and tickets are €25. four euros. ets at the door will cost €20. dinars [around €4]. Tickets are eight euros at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 01 - Thursday, April 14, 2016 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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