On the Tosca Trail

WHERE NOW | OPERA On the Tosca Trail

Book tickets to see the Teatro dell’Opera’s new production of Tosca, then take a Tosca-inspired tour of Rome. Tiffany Parks leads the way.

16 WHERE ROME I MARCH 2015 If you had been in Rome on the night of Act I: Jealousy in Church 14 January 1900, you could have witnessed With as many eye-popping churches as Rome the world premiere of Puccini’s masterpiece has, it’s really no surprise that Sant’Andrea della Tosca at the Teatro Costanzi (p53). Over a cen- Valle (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) (right) is not tury later, Tosca is one of the most frequently on most tourist agendas. Ironically, it would performed operas in the classical canon, and probably be considered the most important undoubtedly the most thoroughly Roman church in town, were it in any other city. But one ever written. In an exciting new produc- opera lovers have a special place in their tion, the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma is using hearts for this underrated baroque church. the original sketches and notes from the The first time we hear Tosca’s voice is when 1900 premiere to recreate, as authentically she calls to her lover Cavaradossi while he is as possible, what that very first performance painting inside the church. In this scene, we must have been like. And as the new produc- encounter Tosca’s irrational jealousy, as well as tion will be performed at Teatro Costanzi as her intense passion for Cavaradossi. If jealousy well, the principal theater of Rome’s opera is Act I’s theme, the backdrop of art found company still today, attending it will almost in the church couldn’t be more appropriate. be like traveling back in time. The dome—at the time of completion the third largest in the city after St. Peter’s and the But to truly appreciate Tosca’s timeless Pantheon—provided an excellent opportunity appeal, to immerse yourself in the passion to showcase an artist’s talent, so naturally the and intrigue of the dramatic story, what bet- commission was one of the most prestigious ter way than to visit the Roman landmarks of its day. The artists in contention were two where each of the acts takes place? Set in baroque painters, Giovanni Lanfranco and Rome in 1800, during the French domination Domenichino. Lanfranco was the original pick, of the city, the opera tells the story of the im- but was passed over for Domenichino, who petuous singer Floria Tosca, and her mission had more influential connections. But after to save the man she loves from persecution Domenichino had completed the frescoes in by the corrupt government. Along the way, the apse half-dome and spandrels, the patron Tosca experiences jealousy, obsession, and changed his mind again, this time in favor of betrayal, all culminating with the dramatic Lanfranco, a crushing blow to Domenichino’s final act, when she throws herself to her ambitions. Although the result is a spectacular death off the ramparts of Castel Sant’Angelo. monument to baroque art, the jealousy-induc- Act III: Suicide from the Castle Walk across the city in the footsteps of the ing conditions, as well as working in such close To conclude your Tosca tour, cross town to heroine, and get to know this incredible proximity to one another, sparked an artistic Castel Sant’Angelo (p55), the striking me- opera from the inside out. rivalry that would last their entire careers. dieval fortress built out of the 2nd-century mausoleum of Emperor Hadrian. It is dawn, and the day of Cavaradossi’s execution has Act II: Murder at the Palace arrived. As he prepares to meet his death on The second act of Puccini’s masterpiece takes the castle’s battlements, Tosca assures him place at imposing Palazzo Farnese, an enor- that Scarpia has promised to simulate the mous brick of a building that dominates the execution only. The guns are loaded with eponymous piazza, just a few blocks from the blanks, and Cavaradossi must simply pretend church of Act I. The High Renaissance palace took to die. But once the guns have fired, Tosca several decades to complete, and was designed realizes only too quickly that Scarpia has by architects such as Antonio da Sangallo the betrayed her. The execution was, in fact, real, Younger, Giacomo della Porta, and Michelangelo, and her lover is dead. Moments before being with rooms and galleries frescoed by the Carracci arrested herself for Scarpia’s murder, Tosca brothers. The drama continues as Tosca visits the throws herself to her death from the battle- private office of Baron Scarpia, the corrupt chief ments of the castle. As grisly as the final of police, to plead for her now-imprisoned lover’s scene of Tosca certainly is, Castel Sant’Angelo release. As she tries in vain to have Cavaradossi has, in reality, witnessed even more grue- spared from execution for aiding enemies of some horrors throughout its long history. state, she soon realizes that Scarpia has other, The castle’s dungeons housed and tortured more nefarious intentions. Faced with the choice enemies of the church until as recently as between sending her lover to his death and the late-19th century. Philosopher Gior- submitting to Scarpia's lewd advances, a desper- dano Bruno, painter Bevenuto Cellini, and ate Tosca chooses the latter, only to kill Scarpia as astronomer Galileo were all confined within soon as he has signed the couple’s document of its grimy walls. Countless more prisoners safe passage. Today the palace is the site of the met their deaths either on the battlements French Embassy, and it’s not the easiest place to like Cavaradossi, or on the bridge directly visit; in fact, not long ago, it was nearly impossible in front of the castle. One of these was the for non-VIPs to gain entrance. Luckily for us Tosca- tragic young Beatrice Cenci, beheaded for lovers, with a little bit of advanced planning, it’s plotting the murder of her abusive father. A no longer quite so off-limits. Guided tours are visit to the sinister castle, now a museum, is organized by the Inventerrome cultural associa- an absolute must for any opera fanatic, and it tion, and must be booked at least one week in also provides one of the most breath-taking advance at www.inventerrome.com. views of the city.