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Top Tables 2011 2 l Top Tables 2011 contents

Who's in charge? Downtown 6

General Manager James Fuss Senior Tele Sales Associate Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri siam 14 Managing Editor Gr goire Glachant Junior Sales Associate Duangruedee Amnuayweroj Managing Editor, Special Projects Nick victory monument/ari 15 Measures Senior Marketing Executive Wiwat Sub-editor Mrigaa Sethi Patcharinsak Senior Staff Writer Monruedee Jansuttipan Marketing Executive, Creative Services central 16 Web Editor Chanun Poomsawai Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Staff Writers Top Koaysomboon, Web Developer Kasama Sukthong Narisa Pokunchanan lower sukhumvit 19 Junior Writer Vasachol Quadri Finance Manager Thitiya Mintakhat Content Coordinator Sita Srisawat Senior Accountants Supaporn Bangmung, upper sukhumvit 24 Kedsaraporn Suinta Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Accountant Donnapa Umnoursarn Assistant Art Director Dechart Sangsawang khao san 30 Senior Graphic Designers Patsiri Contributor Cole Pennington Santornpasart, Sanit Sangkaew Junior Graphic Designer Wiwan Sirivasaree Interns Sritala Dhanasarnsombut, Rattikorn thong lor/EKkAMAI 32 Suwithayaphan, Pinhathai Chunharas Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Manager Tipkritta Chiraporncharas Cover photography by Gr goire Glachant, riverside 38 Senior Sales Associates Tassanee food by Bo.lan, see page 24 Mahamad, Orajira Sukkasem, Onwara Sittirug, Waranuch Thaneerat, Nattaya naratHiwas 39 Bovornsettanon elsewhere 40 BK Top Tables 2011 is published and distributed on March 25, 2011. It is edited by Kattiya Chan-urai and published by Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2008 Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK Top Tables 2011 are the property of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. The magazine index 45 may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Thai Union Graphic Co. Ltd. 85/14 Soi Watphromrungsri, Moo 4, Rama 2 Rd., Smaedam, Bangkhuntien, Bangkok 10150.

Top Tables 2011 l 3 K Magazine’s reviews are quite simply the most respected in town. A lot of the attention they Bgather comes from how often we give out Lip- harsh one or two star reviews—even to our own advertisers. But that’s what makes the places we love even more exciting. They’ve gone through smacking a tough vetting process (no freebies, no sitting with the chef, no glowing review in return for Good ads) and have managed to put smiles on our grumpy faces. And they’re all here in Top Tables, your complete guide to Bangkok’s most exciting restaurants, the top picks from ten years of dual weekly reviews. Now maybe this second edition of Top Tables is still missing a couple of fancy hotel Ital- ian restaurants (yawn), our favorite street eats (that’s another guide), or your preferred dim sum joint (an endless source of debate), but we can vouch for what did get included, places that may not always be the fanciest, but which are unmistakably a cut above and which often dazzle us with their soul and their lip-smacking good food. You can close your eyes and pick at random: these top tables will all deliver on the simple, but oh-so-elusive, promise of a truly great meal.

Disagree with our selection? Did we miss you favorite place? Email us at [email protected].

Price guide Symbols B Under B400 H Reservations recommended BB B400-700 F Parking available BBB B700-1,000 E Dress requirements BBBB B1,000 and up

Price per person, including one drink, new Restaurants opened within the last 12 months appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax. Pick Restaurants given four or five stars inBK Magazine

4 l Top Tables 2011 Top Tables 2011 l 5 Downtown Silom/Sathorn/Surawong

D’Sens Aubergine

Ae Seafood there are plenty of other great, menu) is the male restroom. The Seafood, Thai. Chulalongkorn Soi 14, comforting dishes. BBBB F urinal is dug into the floor, against a 081-619-1924. Open daily 6-11pm. floor-to-ceiling window, bestowing a Don’t expect stunning riverside views Baan Garagade panoramic view of the city—yes, it’s and air-con comfort. But if you are Thai. 37 Mahaset Rd., 02-631-8808. Open like pissing on Bangkok (as if you’re Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 5-10:30pm; Sat-Sun a politician). In the dimly lit dining looking for good, fresh seafood at 11am-10:30pm. bargain-basement prices, this place room, too, the design in ultra chic. A Before the former Baan Chamnong got does the trick. Short and simple, the meal here is not complete without the a bright, trendy, Thonglor-esque make- menu features only 15 home-style delightful chocolate coulat with lemon over, it was grungier and cheaper. seafood dishes. Our favorite are the flavored caramel, hazelnut biscuit But the white walls, black chandeliers prawns, which are grilled to perfection and yogurt. Who can ask for anything and floral prints haven’t scared off the with the head intact, allowing the fatty more? BBBB H F families and large groups of regulars juices to enhance the prawn’s natural who are addicted to this kitchen’s moisture and sweetness. B-BB H F Eat Me magic touch with seafood. Don’t miss International. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent the signature pla meuk dad diew or Rd., 02-238-0931. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Aubergine hearty classics like the kaeng som. The daily 3pm-1am. French, Italian, Mediterranean. 71/1 Sala menu may be pretty boring but the Daeng Soi 1/1, Silom Rd., 02-234-2226. Nearly a decade on, Eat Me still has a MRT Silom. Open daily 11:30am-11pm. food is just right. BBB F genuine charisma. The décor is a cool, Set in a grand old villa, Aubergine is all yet cozy, mélange of industrial, natural Pick about atmosphere. The building itself, D’Sens and artistic in the form of rotating with its hardwood floors, doors and French. 22/F, Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama exhibits by top artists. The kitchen pulls 4 Rd., 02-200-9000 ext. 2499. MRT off bold combinations like “cranberry bar, high ceilings and “backyard” patio Lumphini. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am- (perfect for smokers), is impressive. 2:30pm, 6:30-10pm. couscous” with roasted duck, Pernod Service is brisk and professional. The on a plate of spaghetti and lamb rump The French-imported eatery by the with cannelloni beans and chorizo. The food is diverse, with nods to Italy and Michelin starred Pourcel brothers has the Mediterranenan. Even though the service is diligent and sweet, and the all the oomph one might expect. What cocktails are perfection. BBBB H pasta is all Bangkok seems to want, we enjoy the most (other than the heartbreakingly delicious set dinner

6 l Top Tables 2011 Top Tables 2011 l 7 Downtown Silom/Sathorn/surawong

La Table de Tee Opus

Indigo baby Iberico pig and black ink risotto. more than a decade. And it has been French. 6 Convent Rd., 02-235-3268. BTS BBBB H F doing this amid a confusing tangle Sala Daeng. Open daily 11:30-1am. of go-go bars and bikini-clad danc- The restaurant is housed inside Pick La Table de Tee ers. Despite the occasional culinary a beautifully restored L-shaped International. 69/5 Soi Sala Daeng, misfire, Le Bouchon is an experience. colonial-style home, and the setting Silom Rd., 02-636-3220. MRT Silom. It’s not just the food, which is fairly Open Tue-Sun 6:30-10:30pm. alone makes it worth a visit. The authentic and occasionally very com- music is modern and mellow, and The Thai chef, Tee, might only be forting, but the whole vibe, which there is a good selection of wines 26 years old but he’s already com- stands in marked contrast with the by the glass (a dozen or so) at very pleted six formative years working city’s fine-dining Gallic standards. reasonable prices. The menu has a at Michelin-starred French restaurant BBB-BBBB E sizable fish section, with traditional Roussillon, in London. Now he’s French offerings like sole and mullet. come home to serve up Thai ingre- Le Café Siam But Indigo has always been better dients cooked French-style, making French, Thai. 4 Soi Chuaphloeng, Sri with meats, and beef in particular. this hard-to-find-shophouse well Aksorn Rd., 02-671-0030. MRT Khlong Toei. Open daily 6-11pm. Just one look at their butcher shop, worth hunting out. The reasonably- Gargantua (02-630-4577), and you priced set menu (no a la carte) The elegant yet homey 1920s can see where their interest and includes a small soup, an appetizer, building, set in an adorable tropical expertise lie. BBBB F a main, two desserts and little treats garden, got a makeover and a to enjoy with your coffee. While new chef. Apart from a few Asian La Scala the menu rotates weekly, you can touches, Chef Paul Anthony Quar- always count on intriguing and bold chioni offers up unpretentious French Italian. The Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. Open daily fusion dishes. BBB H favorites at reasonable prices (thanks noon-3pm, 6:30-10:30pm. to an emphasis on local ingredients) Embellished with dark wood fur- Le Bouchon along with a few creations for the niture, Buddha images and stylish French. 37/17 Patpong Soi 2, more adventurous. There are good lamps, Ed Tuttle’s design is resolutely 02-234-9109. BTS Sala Daeng. Open set dinner options or, if you can’t Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm. contemporary and Asian. The subtle, make up your own mind, try the sur- yet finely-tuned, ambiance is the Now a Bangkok institution, this prise menu where Chef Paul whips ideal backdrop for Chef Maurizio’s eatery has been serving bistro Lyon- up six courses. BBBB F Italian cuisine. Highlights include nais food to hungry gourmands for

8 l Top Tables 2011 Downtown Silom/Sathorn/Surawong

Nadimo’s nam prik of prawns, santol and on wine—there are over 400 Italian Lebanese. Baan Silom, Silom Soi 19, shrimp paste served with mackerel, labels to choose from in the 02-266-9081. BTS Surasak. Open daily sweet pork and crispy cha-om. BBBB impressive walk-in cellar. But that’s 11am-11:30. E H F not to dismiss the food created by In almost every respect, barring the Tuscan chef, Franceso Lenzi, who has tourism posters, this is a fairly el- Pick Niu’s a passion for simple classic dishes egant place with competent service Italian. 1-2/F, Baan Silom, 661 Silom and a real love for seafood. Don’t and a kitchen (and Lebanese chef) Rd., 02-266-5333. BTS Surasak. miss the wonderfully light and to match. Each table is brightened by Open daily 5pm-1am. flavorsome seafood platter as you a bowl overflowing with pickled and Muted tones, crisp white tablecloths soak up the understated but opulent fresh vegetables which are served and large windows flanking two atmosphere. BBBB F with some pleasant dips—yogurt, sides of the room let the food take garlic puree and hot pepper. The center stage. Prepared by chef Marco Ruen Urai mains cover all the usual suspects Cammarata, who works the tables Thai. Rose Hotel, 188 Surawong Rd., like shawarmas, shish kebabs and and makes suggestions to diners, it’s 02-266-8268/-72. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily noon-11pm. the national dish of Lebanon, kib- both inventive and delicious, with beh. Oh, and now there’s a second dishes like the roasted porcini with After walking the gauntlet of branch, on Sukhumvit Soi 24. BB HF goat cheese, veal ravioli with truffle Surawong’s beer bars and massage and cream essence and roasted parlors, it’s a shock to discover this century-old, two-story house which Pick Nahm kingfish on eggplant caponata. Add has been skillfully decorated and Thai. G/F, Metropolitan, Sathorn Rd., in an extensive wine list and top 02-625-3333. Open daily 7-11pm. name jazz acts downstairs, and you outfitted with rare taste and atten- tion to detail. The architecture draws David Thompson’s Nahm serves have an experience that is definitely its share of tourists and the food a fiery, multi-course (we use the worth the hefty price tag. BBBB E F tastes slightly international, but the word course loosely, as this is true ingredients are of high quality and Thai-style dining: communal with the Opus the curry pastes and sauces taste dishes arriving all at once) set menu, Italian. 64 Pan Rd., 02-637-9899. BTS like they are made from scratch. which also offers plenty of choices. Surasak. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BBB H F Try the fresh, tart and unusual Hiro- Owned and managed by Alex masa kingfishyam and the balanced, Morabito, who used to run Vino insanely spicy and delightfully sweet Zanotti, Opus has a similar emphasis

Nahm Ruen Urai

Top Tables 2011 l 9 Downtown Silom/Sathorn/Surawong

Serina Sambuca Japanese. 9/26 Soi Jim Thompson, Surawong Rd., 02-235-8382. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2pm; daily 5:30-10:30pm. Waitresses in kimonos, the glass tower stocked with Bordeaux Grand Cru and the windowless dining room flanked by two massive tepanyaki grills create a hushed atmosphere. We come often for lunch (great sets) but in the evening, both the sets (Kobe beef, seafood or US beef) and the a la carte menu are on another plane entirely. But it’s also the su- perb food’s supporting cast— the beautiful crockery, the stern wait- resses that never miss a beat—that makes Serina not just a great meal, but a great experience. BBBB

Tsukiji Tsukiji 62/19-20 Soi Thaniya, Silom Rd., 02-233-9698. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 11:30-2am. Named after the famed Tokyo fish market, the specialty here is sashimi and sushi. Dinners can break the bank, but those in the know enjoy the much more affordable sushi sets at lunch. BBB H F

Unkai Japanese. 22/F, Crowne Plaza, 952 Rama 4 Rd., 02-632-9000. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. Formerly called Keyaki, this Japanese outlet really feels like Japan. Not only is the decor reminiscent of Pick Sambuca by a bright and airy glass-covered some 1980s Tokyo hotel, the kaiseki- Italian. 139/3 Sathorn Soi 7, veranda, there are no surprises on ryori also has a real Japanese taste. 02-286-8805. BTS Chong Nonsi. the menu. The beauty is that they Unkai doesn’t try to be stylish or Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, get the simple things right, from the hip—no models’ nights—which is just 5:30-10:30pm. delicious imported meats to the crisp the way we like it. It’s a great busi- This is the little sister to Nicolas Bon- pizzas baked in an authentic pizza ness lunch venue, too, with its solid azza's equally noteworthy Enoteca. oven. Make sure you leave room for sets and bento boxes, downtown Sambuca offers a stylish but informal the desserts. BBB-BBBB H F views and diligent waitresses in location to enjoy a range of classic kimonos. BBB-BBBB dishes. Set in a white house flanked

10 l Top Tables 2011 Top Tables 2011 l 11 Downtown Silom/Sathorn/Surawong

Vertigo Grill and Moon Vertigo Grill and Moon Bar Bar International. 61/F, The Banyan Tree, 21 Sathorn Rd., 02-6791200. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 5pm-1am. One of the city’s first sky-high dining options remains a popular choice for special occasion dining. (It was voted best restaurant for Western food by our readers in 2010.) The focus is on grilled dishes, the mouth-watering smell of which greets you at the top of the (many) stairs. With the twinkling lights of the city stretching out in front of you, the stage is set for romance— Water Library as long as you check the weather forecast first.BBB-BBBB F E

Water Library International. 2/F, Chamchuri Square, Phaya Thai Rd., 02-160-5188/9. MRT Sam Yan. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-9:30pm. This place is really gorgeous, much more like something you’d find in an elegant boutique hotel than a mall. The use of steel, glass and grey wood is striking without being cold, thanks to cozy corners that conjure a library atmosphere. There’s also a long water menu, hence the name. Some dishes, like the pan-seared snowfish with

Top Wine Places Aldo’s Wine Pub 7/F, The Ascott, 187 Sathorn Rd., 02-676-6982. Open daily 11:30am-midnight. In addition to The Reflexions, Aldo’s is the only other restaurant in Bangkok to be repeatedly recognized in Wine Spectator Magazine for its long and broad wine list. If that’s more bewil- dering than impressive to you, Aldo’s also has a fancy wine saver that can store several bottles of wine in top condition as well as dispense it by the half-glass and full-glass, so you don’t have to commit to bottles and you can even get a half-glass to match each course you order. F

12 l Top Tables 2011 Downtown Silom/Sathorn/Surawong braised cabbage a la Parisienne, are Yamagoya simply outstanding. BBB-BBBB F

Yamagoya (Surawong) Japanese. 98-102 Surawong Rd., 02-637-0588. MRT Sam Yan. Open daily 10:30am-midnight. This Japanese chain serves Kyushu- style ramen. The secret is a deliciously thick broth that rivals even the fattiest kha muu (with ten times more salt). Added to that succulent soup, in the signature Yamagoya Ramen, are toothsome noodles, slices of fatty pork, hard-boiled eggs, chopped green onion, tender bamboo, seaweed and pickled ginger. B-BB H Zanotti Pick Zanotti Italian. 1/F, Saladaeng Colonnade Condominium, 21/1 Soi Sala Daeng, Silom Rd., 02-636-0002. MRT Silom. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-midnight. A contender for Bangkok’s favorite Ital- ian restaurant, Zanotti’s dining room certainly has the best buzz. Authentic Piedmontese cuisine is whipped up from top-quality ingredients. A favorite haunt among power brokers and visi- tors from Hong Kong and Singapore. BBBB E H F

The Lake House Wine Pub Wine Connection Deli 18 Soi Prommitr, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 2/F, Pullman Bangkok King Power, Soi and Bistro 02-662-6349. Open Tue-Fri 5pm-midnight; Rangnam, 02-680-9999. Open daily G/F, K. Village, 93-95 Sukhumvit Soi 26, Sat-Sun 11:30-midnight. 6pm-2am. 02-661-3940. Open daily 10-1am While they only do a couple of wines Perhaps one of our favorite, affordable Opened early 2010, Wine Connection by the glass, they have a pretty big hotel eateries, Wine Pub has three was a sort of Prometheus of wine, wine list, with special emphasis on things we love: cold cuts, wine and stealing the hoity-toity drink from great Australian wines (so the price per net prices. They even do affordable heights and bringing it to the tableside bottle won’t be too through-the-roof promotions that change on a daily of the masses. The neat model of picking for the most part). The other big basis, though our favorite would have a wine from their very inexpensive adja- attraction here, particularly for those to be the one on Fridays where you cent wine store and having it served at who believe that the enjoyment of can purchase a booklet of coupons your table, along with pizzas and pastas wine depends on where you are, is and exchange each one for a different has endured the initial hype. With most the beautiful 100-year-old Thai house glass of wine. Pair that with a vast wines (from all parts of the world) going with a lake on premises. array of salamis, saucisson and pickles for well under B1,000, this is a good and you have a winning combo and place to develop your palate before pretty cool date night. F moving on to the expensive stuff. F

Top Tables 2011 l 13 Siam

tktkCafé Chili Sra Bua

Déjà Vu

Café Chili Lim Kwong Meng Pick new Sra Bua Isaan. G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., Chinese, Seafood. 294 Chulalongkorn Thai. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 02-610-9877/8. Siam. Open daily Soi 15, Rama 4 Rd., 02-215-4171, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS 11am-10pm. 02-215-4260. Open daily 11am-2pm, Siam. Open Mon-Fri noon-2pm, 6-10pm; 5-10pm. Sat-Sun 6-10pm. Elegantly decorated in contemporary Northeastern style with a lovely This unassuming two-story shophouse Sra Bua is a sister of Copenhagen’s outdoor seating area, the café serves offers the sort of Chinese food typi- Michelin-starred Thai restaurant Kiin up luxurious Isaan dishes with larb cally created by the well-entrenched Kiin (one of just two Thai restaurants salmon and grilled lamb with jaew Chinese community in Thailand: in the world to have received this sauce as hot favorites. By street heavy on the spices and easy on the distinction). Chef Yde-Andersen whips standards, the servings are small for glutinous muck commonly featured up Thai food with a very contempo- what you’re paying, but the kitchen at more expensive (or Mainland- rary twist: frozen red curry with baby does a solid job, the service is smart authentic) venues. Instead, shoppers lobster, the harvest with green curry and the ambiance is oh-so-cool. BB F exhausted after a wrangle with the (freshly harvested vegetables, covered durian vendor can vie with hungry with edible “soil”) or spicy salad with Chula students for some of the best orchids and sankhaya ice cream. All seafood in town. BBB F this in an atmospheric setting that’s part soaring, glittering palace and part rice field.BBBB H

14 l Top Tables 2011 Victory monument/ARI

Salt Vu makes good use of its generous and no frills seating) has earned it a space and ceiling height by creating reputation among the indie denizens subtle divisions—curtains of thin that populate the area. Besides tasty metal chains, a central platform and dishes, this fresh joint also has an cozier tables in the back under a art gallery out front and DJs spinning lower ceiling. An affordable set menu loungey Brazilian music, house and (a choice of starter, main and dessert) soul. BBB H F features plenty of modern twists and international touches, making this new Salt traditional gastronomy with an edge. International. Ari Soi 4, 02-619-6886. BBBB H F Open Wed-Sun 6pm-midnight; Mon 6pm-midnight. Pla Dib A big wooden house in the back, Fusion. 1/1 Ari Samphan Soi 7, Rama 6 a glass box with exposed concrete Déjà Vu Rd., 02-279-8185. Open Tue-Sun pillars and a small lawn in the front, French. 2/F, Pullman Bangkok King 5pm-midnight. cool, elegant people sitting at the Power Hotel, 8/1-7 Rangnam Rd., Unlike cliched East-West cuisine that tables, and a long, long menu: raw 02-680-9999. BTS Phaya Thai. earned “fusion” the scorn it has fish seasoned to local taste, wood- Open Tue-Sun 6-11pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am- 2:30pm, 7-11pm. garnered over the years, Pla Dib’s fired oven pizzas, classic French fare innovative presentation and emphasis and solid cocktails. Expect to wait for The Pullman’s lofty fine dining res- on “rawness” (as in uncooked food a table. BBB H taurant serves contemporary cuisine as well as sparse concrete walls with a strong Gallic influence. Déjà

Top Tables 2011 l 15 Central Ratchadamri/Lang Suan/Ploenchit/Wireless

Gaggan Boqueria

Biscotti that you never tire of the offerings. recreate the delights of Barcelona. Italian. G/F, Four Seasons Hotel Biscotti may no longer be the flavor The authentic, quality ingredients Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., of the day, but, where it matters, it and the size of the portions make up 02-251-6127. Open daily 11:30am- still epitomizes good taste. BBBB F for the lack of atmosphere though, 2:30pm,6-10:30pm. with a highlight having to be the With a chic but comfortable ambi- Boqueria wonderfully moist and flakey black ance, varied menu, well-rounded European. G/F, CRC Tower, All Season cod on a bed of summer vegetables. wine list and “we aim to please” Place, 87/2 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., Our tip: take advantage of the staff, the place works to make sure 02-685-3930/1. BTS Phloen Chit. Open midweek lunch deals with a main every diner feels like the restaurant daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. course and buffet, and savor some is created especially with them in It can come as a surprise to learn impressive cuisine. BBBB E H F mind. The menu changes its mains, that a secluded corner of an office pizzas and pastas frequently enough block would be the ideal location to

Top DINGY EATS Great Food Sometimes Comes in Ugly Packages Baan Pa Jazz Jok Kitchen Thai. 103 Rachawithee Soi 7, 02-245-1006. Open daily 10am-11pm At these lowly prices, the sight of Pa Jazz herself standing impeccably coiffed, with makeup fit for a beauty queen competition, as she handles two pans simultaneously is worth a visit alone. But when these affordable dishes also display perfect timing and sauces bursting with flavor, then a visit becomes a must. Don’t miss the addictive sauce on the plaa goong or the herbal, peppery delight that is the gaeng om neua. This place can get super busy, but trust us, it really is worth the wait.

16 l Top Tables 2011 Central Ratchadamri/Lang Suan/Ploenchit/Wireless

Erawan Tea Room foaming, sous-vide, dehydrating and by famed Australian Guy Grossi and his Thai. 2/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, more alongside your traditional curries. commitment to earthy Italian cuisine. 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Our tip: splurge on the slightly pricy This is no hotel restaurant—thanks Open daily 10am-10pm. degustation and put yourself in the to its street entrance and soaring Good food (all the recognizable chef’s able hands. BBBB H F three-story tall ceilings and lively favorites), Asian ambiance (a little Thai but elegant trattoria touches. High silk and a lot of air-con) and friendly Pick Gianni Ristorante quality ingredients, distinct flavors and service are some of the virtues of this Italian. 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd., intriguing dishes make this place a real cute eatery in the very swanky Grand 02-252-1619, 02-652-2922. BTS Chit Lom. stand-out. BBBB E H F Hyatt Erawan. More than just a tea Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. room, they also have delicious main “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, Hyde and Seek courses worth trying. The comfy seats, has earned this affection with con- International. Athenee Residence, 65/1 tranquil atmosphere and free board sistently oustanding food, an elegant Soi Ruam Rudee, 02-168-5152-3. BTS games are just a few of the details opera-house atmosphere and polished Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. that make this tea room stand apart service. The fritto misto, with baby Former interior designer turned cocktail from others. BBB F squid, tiny shrimp and fish fillets on a connoisseur and the man behind Flow, bed of polenta is head-and-shoulders Chanond Purananda, and Chef Ian new Gaggan above the mundane deep-fried Kittichai, of New York City’s Kittichai 68/1 Soi Lang Suan, 02-652-1700. starters served elsewhere, and the fame, came together to share their BTS Chit Lom. 6pm-midnight. slow-cooked Wagyu beef cheeks love of food, drink and detail at Hyde We can guarantee that you’ve never served with an Amarone wine are also and Seek, a chic gastro bar with a had Indian food like this before. After wonderful. The ever-changing specials playful edge. The beveled windows, a solid foundation in Indian and Italian frequently knock it out of the ballpark. dark woodwork and leather couches cooking from his hotel restaurant days, BBBB H F make this a spot worthy of a Mad Men Chef Gaggan Anand upped the ante, cocktail meeting. The menu features did a brief stint at the research facility Grossi Trattoria lovingly-made traditional pub food of El Bulli, the modern gastro capital of Italian. G/F, Intercontinental Hotel, 973 with a high-end twist, like baby back the world, and developed this exciting Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0444. BTS Chit Lom. ribs in a chili and chocolate glaze. But Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6:30-10:45pm. menu interpreting regional Indian we go mostly for the cocktails, which dishes with solid, traditional flavors Start up chef Jesse Barnes might have are quite simply the best in town. and wow-worthy construction. Expect departed, but this place is still backed BBB-BBBB F

Top DINGY EATS Great Food Sometimes Comes in Ugly Packages Jok Kitchen Royal India Yim Yim Chinese, Thai. 23 Soi Isara Nuphap, Phlab Phla Indian. 392/1 Chakkaphet Rd., 02-221-6565. Chinese. 2/F, 89 Yaowaphanit Rd., Chai Rd., 02-221-4075, 081-919-9468. Open Open daily 10am-10pm. 02-224-2203/5. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-10pm. daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm. Tucked away in a back alley in Pahurat, Around for some 80 years, this is now Don’t be discouraged by the rats and Royal India’s cramped tables and a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s cockroaches in the alleyway where harsh lighting are hardly inviting to the rich dining scene, which is to say it’s this small, menu-less establishment uninitiated. Yet for years the restaurant some of the best Chinese food you’ll lurks. The real challenge is that it may has been serving some of the most con- take months after you make your sistently delicious Northern Indian food get in Bangkok. The decrepit décor, reservation before you actually get to in Bangkok. Looking for a light meal? despite kitsch touches, is messy and dine here. But Jok will astonish you Turn on your heels, because here they almost gloomy, with its low ceiling with his Chinese-Thai cooking prepared cook in true grandmother style—plenty and small, dark windows. But the best with fresh seafood, in particular his of cream and ghee. For roughly a third ingredients and impeccably traditional stunning crabs. H less of what it’ll cost you in the city, you execution make Yim Yim a superbly get true homemade lip-smacking good reliable kitchen. Let’s hope the next Punjabi recipes. Their chicken makhani generation keeps it that way. with garlic naan is a killer combination.

Top Tables 2011 l 17 Central Ratchadamri/Lang Suan/Ploenchit/Wireless

Madison Shintaro La Monita

Pick La Monita Taqueria Reflexions Shintaro Mexican. Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloen French. 3/F, Plaza Athénée, 61 Witthayu Japanese. G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, Chit Rd., 02-650-9581. BTS Phloen Chit. (Wireless) Rd., 02-650-8800. 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-251-6127. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm. Hands-down the best place to get Elegant but edgy, with its raw black a super flavorful quesadilla or fish and white photography of Bangkok, Its location in one corner of the Four taco and cozy up with a date or a Reflexions is authentic French food Seasons Hotel makes this cozy and large party of friends. Burritos and without the stuffiness. One look at somewhat dim Japanese restaurant the steak torta are also excellent the young Thibault Chiumenti will tell a draw for the glam crowd who thanks to well-flavored meat, onions, you this is not stodgy French fare. come to pose on weekend nights. cilantro and a squeeze of lime. You Still, Chiumenti cooks with an eye for The food is trendy-Japanese, with might also want to try the Cuban rice tradition and bold flavors, without dishes like sushi-pizza and California topped with fried egg and the amaz- making sacrifices to any fads or rolls that you wouldn’t find in a more ing choriqueso, a spicy dish made shortcuts. BBBB E H F traditional restaurant. Attentive but with Mexican chorizo and cheese. unobtrusive service makes it an ideal The decor isn’t much, but you won’t Sa-Nguan Sri place for media-types to sit around care after your third michilada­—a Thai. 59/1 Witthayu (Wireless) Rd., and gossip. BBBB EHF concoction of beer, lime juice, salt and 02-252-7637, 02-251-9378. BTS Phloen Chit. Open Mon-Sat 10am-3pm. chili. BB F Pick Xinn Tien Di Sometimes you just want some Chinese. 3/F, Gaysorn, 999 Ploenchit Pick Madison old-fashioned comfort food like your Rd., 02-656-2114-5. BTS Chit Lom. gran used to make: simple, traditional Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10pm. Steak. G/F, Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-250-1000, dishes that are full of flavor. Sa-Nguan Xinn Tien Di’s food is blessed with 02-251-6127. BTS Ratchadamri. Sri does just that; and to really make fresh ingredients, subtle sauces and Open Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily you feel nostalgic, it does so in an discreet twists. In fact, we think this 6-10:30pm; Sun 11:30am-3pm. old-school setting. Still, you could is one of the best Peking ducks in Bright and open, Madison has been be excused for missing the place town—and the seafood is just as tastefully designed by the famous altogether. Sa-Nguan Sri is never stunning. It’s all the more extraor- Tony Chi. This contemporary, high-end going to win any style awards but dinary a find as it is situated on the steakhouse foregoes the traditional as the hordes of office workers that uppermost floor of a mall, Gaysorn, steakhouse feel, unless you book one descend each lunchtime can testify, and the prices are very reasonable. of the booths. A meat-eater’s para- if you want good, affordable home- Were Xinn Tien Di at a nicer location, dise, the extensive menu features style Thai food then it’s hard to beat we might be more inclined to visit imported beef from Australia and this classic oasis, hidden amid the in the evening, but then again, we Japan and comes with exceptional modernity of Wireless Road. B F would probably have to pay a whole service. BBBB E H F lot more for the privilege. BBB F

18 l Top Tables 2011 lower sukhumvit Sukhumvit Soi 1 – Soi 19

Bed Supperclub Arirang

Bei Otto

Arirang Bed Supperclub Bei Otto Korean. 1/F, Sukhumvit Plaza, International. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, German. 1 Sukhumvit Soi 20, Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-653-0177, 02-651-3537. BTS Nana. Open Tue-Sun 02-260-0869. BTS Asok. Open daily 02-653-0179. BTS Asok. Open Mon-Fri 7:30pm-2am. 11am-midnight. 11am-2pm, 5-10pm; Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. This all-white, loft-like, futuristic What could be a medieval German hangar maintains its status as the tavern stands at the end of a small 199/1 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-4772. grande dame of clubbing and trendy courtyard on Soi 20, where they offer We’ve been to a lot of Korean barbe- dining despite the years. The menu a remarkable selection of sausages, cue restaurants, and most are smoky, always surfs the latest trends, from sauerkraut and other homemade greasy, cacophonous affairs, often sourcing local products to comfort delicacies with little grace but with badly-lit and badly-serviced, with all food. With those decadent white an efficiency and authenticity that is the charm of an auction in a barn. beds you’re dining on, and a crowd unmatched in Thailand. It’s a great Arirang is the exact opposite: pleas- of moneyed visitors and jet-set place for friends and family to gather ant, clean, bright and stylish. It also Bangkokians sprawled all over them, over sumptuous grilled platters offers delicious and beautifully pre- the joy of dining here is also to see washed down with plenty of German sented cuisine made with top quality and be seen. Enjoy the innovative beer. BBBB F ingredients and five-star service from shows and then head to the bar well trained servers. BBBB F section next door to party later on. BBBB H F

Top Tables 2011 l 19 lower sukhumvit Sukhumvit Soi 1 – Soi 19

Greenhouse Minibar Royale Le Beaulieu

Crepes & Co. Kuppa ingredients money can buy. At the helm is Chef (and co-owner) Herve French, Greek. • 18 Sukhumvit Soi 12., International. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-653-3990/1. Open Mon-Sat 02-663-0495, 02-663-8806. Frerard, a talented perfectionist who 9am-midnight; Sun 8am-midnight Open daily 10am-10:30pm. puts a lot of work into creating food • G/F, 8 Thonglor, 88 Thong Lor Soi 8, Kuppa is better-known as a lunch which is complex and always tastes 02-726-9398/9. Open daily 9am-11pm. venue—consistency is key when wonderful. BBBB F Despite the new, more contemporary you’re meeting with clients or fellow branch on Thong Lor, this original expat wives. The menu has changed Limoncello location retains its colonial charm and very little over the years: home-style Italian. 17 Sukhumvit Soi 11, appeal, with loads of wicker and a sandwiches served on cutting boards, 02-651-0707. BTS Nana. tropical, overgrown garden outside. salads in tall wooden bowls, soups Open daily noon-2pm, 6-11pm. Great service adds to the positive of the day, pizzas, pastas, tarted-up Located in bustling Soi 11, this is a vibe. When it comes to the food, in Thai favorites, solid desserts and hot spot for pizza. As the sister of addition to the array of sweet and underappreciated coffee made from well-regarded Zanotti, Limoncello savory crepes, the frequent Greek beans roasted on premises. Throw in offers tasty pizza as well as other and Moroccan promotions do not comfy couches, cool, polished cement authentic Italian dishes. The decor disappoint. BBB H F and floor-to-ceiling windows bathing is home-style simple and the open everything in natural light, and you’ve ovens make the whole place smell Greenhouse got one chill spot to lounge on the delicious. BBB-BBBB H F International. The Landmark Hotel, 138 weekends. BBB-BBBB Sukhumvit Rd., 02-254-0404. BTS Nana. Minibar Royale Open daily 24hrs. Le Beaulieu International, Western. Citadines Located on the Landmark’s ground French. Asoke Residence Grand Mercure Bangkok, 37/7 Sukhumvit Soi 23, floor, Greenhouse specializes in Building, 50 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-261-5533. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 6:30am-midnight. everything from sandwiches to 02-204-2004. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 6:30-10:30pm, 11:30am-2:30pm, Welcome to hipsterville, where media Chinese breakfast (thier pork congee 6:30-10:30pm. is arguably the best in town). Fans execs and fashion designers nosh on The venue itself, with its cathedral- of “fresh” air can choose to sit along solid, standard bistro food. Pretentious like foyer/wine room/bar and inti- their terrace section opened everyday and overpriced or buzzing and fresh? mate sky blue-ceilinged dining room, till midnight, when they move you One thing is sure, Minibar has struck a is small but grand and surely cost a inside. A favorite of hungry nightowls nerve. The décor is cool, with hints of small fortune. The menu is similarly and late-night revellers. BB-BBB F New York, Paris and Greyhound and ambitious, featuring four pages of the dishes go for safety and comfort, French dishes with a Mediterranean not groundbreaking thrills. Go for slant made with the finest imported

20 l Top Tables 2011 New York Steak-House Rang Mahal

brunch (the eggs Benedict with salmon are a good call) or on Friday night, when you can down cocktails from their impressive (if expensive) drinks list. BBB F

New York Steakhouse Steak. 2/F, JW Marriott Bangkok, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-7700. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 6-11pm. The competition is fierce among Bangkok’s steakhouses, and to be honest we don’t find them all that different: Sinatra, martinis, gorgeous waitresses, meat from at least four countries, and sides you pay extra for that are inevitably disappointing. But for an over-the-top experience, there’s nothing quite like NY, with its huge handlebar platters and knives, oversized chairs at tables that are so close you can’t help pause when the couple next to you starts talking, and a stuffiness that’s more Monaco than Manhattan. The steaks are pretty darn good, too. BBBB F E

Rang Mahal Indian. 26/F, Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7532. BTS Asok. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am- 2:30pm; daily 6:30-11pm; Sun 11am-2:30pm. Known as one of the best Indian places in town, Rang Mahal serves royal Indian cuisine amid maharaja decor (gigantic artifacts and gold, gold and more gold). If the lengthy offerings require too much effort to peruse, opt for a set menu. A traditional Indian band keeps you entertained throughout the meal. Don’t miss the mouth- watering butter-chicken. BBBB H F

Top Tables 2011 l 21 lower sukhumvit Sukhumvit Soi 1 – Soi 19

in striking traditional dress. The bad Zeist news is that the prices at Ten-Sui put it beyond the means of most of us, making it more of a special occa- sions kind of place than your regular sushi-ya or izakaya. BBBB H F

Tsu & Nami Japanese. JW Marriott Hotel, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-7709. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily Tsu & Nami Tapas Cafe 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. The design boasts clever lighting and custom artwork—a wave of bamboo flowing between Tsu and Nami. Clos- est to Sukhumvit is Tsu, the sushi-ya, in the middle is a bar serving stiff saketinis and at the far is Nami, where melt-in-your-mouth kobe beef is grilled at your own private tepanyaki counter. Despite it attract- ing few Japanese, the sushi bar is Rib Room & Bar to be consumed with alcohol, so one of Bangkok’s most elegant, with order a pitcher of sangria or a bottle Steak. 31/F, The Landmark Bangkok, its unusual interior design and softly 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-254-0404. of sherry and plunge into the bold lit private rooms. Make sure you’re MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 6-11pm. flavors of the super garlicky shrimps on an expense count—or that your The bird’s-eye-view of Bangkok’s and the eggplant “caviar” with boss is paying. BBB-BBBB H F E skyline is sure to impress, as is the goat cheese. The restaurant attracts discreet, dimly-lit dining room on the a regular and mixed clientele of 31st floor of the hotel. Bigger parties mostly farang expats plus a fair Zeist can book the glass-encased private number of Thais and Japanese, with European. Methawattana Bldg., 27 Thursday and Friday nights getting Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-651-0372. room, which nestles between the MRT Sukhumvit. Open Mon-Sat open cooking station and the meat pretty busy. BBB-BBBB H F 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm. room. For an interesting meal, order Chef Art Supapipat turns out food the Australian beef tasting plate, Ten-Sui with an almost macho regard for where you can sample the same cut Japanese. 33 Sukhumvit Soi 16, size and flavor—no delicate Alain of beef at different stages of aging. 02-663-2281. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, Ducassian frills here. That means BBBB H F E 5:30-10pm. dishes that can withstand the ham- Ten-Sui is one of the city’s most mering shine brightest. Soups are Tapas Cafe attractive Japanese eateries. Its good enough to bring tears to the Spanish, Tapas. 1/25 Sukhumvit Soi magnificent grounds and hand- eyes (but if we had to choose just 11, 02-651-2947. BTS Nana. Open daily some patios and interiors alone one, maybe it would be the roasted 11:30am-midnight. make it worth a visit. Then there’s garlic cream). Meats are among the Spanish on Four, Silom Soi 4, the wide array of food—fried, best in Bangkok. The star is on the 02-632-9955. Open Sun-Thu 11-1am, grilled, hot stone, sukiyaki, shabu Fri-Sat 11-2am. specials menu, a fatty slice of beef shabu, sashimi, sushi, noodles and belly called, somewhat unappetiz- Tapas Café fills a void in the local rice dishes—which is consistently ingly, a “short plate” and braised in a dining scene, offering authentic excellent, made from top quality rich, unctuous sauce. BBB F Spanish food in a comfortable and imported ingredients, expertly pre- lively setting. The food is designed pared and served up by waitresses

22 l Top Tables 2011 bed Ads upper sukhumvit Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

Bacco Chesa

Bacco–Osteria da courses include Spanish fried rice, roti the southern U.S. are the specialties, Sergio with red chicken curry and fried long such as blackened steaks, jambalaya BBB F Italian. 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, beans with crispy pork. and boiled crawfish. Tuesday night is 02-662-4538. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri Tex Mex buffet night. BBB H F 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight; Sat-Sun Bo.Lan 11:30am-midnight. Thai. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Chesa This relaxed, slightly rustic and always Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm- midnight Swiss. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 20, noisy eatery, created by owner Sergio Chefs and couple Bo and Dylan have 02-261-6650. Open daily 11am-11pm. Forte, already seems like an institution. brought what they learnt working at This humble restaurant has consis- It packs in the diners nightly, thanks to David Thompson’s Michelin-starred tently good food, a menu filled with its extensive menu of specialties from Thai restaurant, Nahm, in the UK, traditional European dishes that all over Italy. We highly recommend back to Thailand. This is a traditional delight with their attention to detail, the piadas (flat Italian sandwiches approach to Thai food, presented in a a team of well-trained and amiable with different stuffings) and the deli- contemporary style. The chefs strong- servers and a cozy, comfortable cious homemade pastas, like the ravi- ly recommend opting for the Bo.lan atmosphere. The menu features oli with truffle cream and papardelle balance, a degustation menu that pungent melted raclette eaten with with duck ragu sauce. BBB-BBBB F regularly changes to reflect seasonal pickles and new potatoes, fondues of products that are bought fresh from cheese or oil, but also (somewhat) Bharani the market daily. It’s all served in a lighter fare including trout, pastas, International, Thai. 96/14 Sukhumvit Soi stylish house-turned-restaurant that salads and salmon tartare. BBBB F 23, 02-664-4454. MRT Sukhumvit. prominently features dark wood and Open daily 10am-10pm. has a ceiling covered with kradong Demi The homey décor of the original has (flat baskets).BBBB HF Chinese. 21/15 Sukhumvit Soi 49, been replaced with a contemporary 02-662-6485/-6. Open daily 11am-10pm. family vibe. One thing that does Bourbon Street The restaurant’s describes itself remain is the menu, and those tasty American. 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22, as a Taiwanese and, specifically, dishes of old are still as good. Tacos 02-259-0328/9. Open daily 7-1am. vegetarian restaurant. Despite tasty pizza (ask for half chicken and half meatless dishes, such as bitter mus- pork) has always been a must for an American food is the order of the tard greens paired with toothsome appetizer, together with Vienna sau- evening in this nearly two-decade-old milky bean curd skin, vegetarian sage (a.k.a. Saigrog Bharani). The main restaurant deep in Washington Square. Cajun food and other delicacies from cuisine is by no means the focus, as

24 l Top Tables 2011 upper sukhumvit Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53 a quick glance around at other tables are well rewarded. BB F perhaps the most welcome surprise. will reveal mouthwatering plates of Sure, there is a very traditional, very tender beef or mutton, crispy duck, Extra Virgin classic Italian spine, but there are succulent shellfish, and fattymoo International, Thai. 63 Sukhumvit Soi also plenty of less obvious dishes to sam chan (pork belly). For such a 53, 02-259-7898/9. BTS Thong Lo. Open spark the interest, particularly dishes small place, Demi’s menu really is Tue-Sun 5pm-1am. using the signature truffle base, like huge. Still, we’ve yet to find a dish The white brick walls, cream sofas the delicious tortellini tartufo. But it’s we didn’t like or felt wasn’t worth and mish-mash of retro furniture not just the truffles that impress. It’s the money. B-BB F give this spot a relaxed but sophis- the generally high standards of all ticated atmosphere that is distinct the imported ingredients and how Enoteca Italiana for Bangkok. While service can be a they are used. It all helps to make Il Italian. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27, touch erratic, the small but diverse Tartufo a very pleasant, very homely 02-258-4386. MRT Sukhumvit. Open menu is well-executed and has a neighborhood trattoria with a menu daily 5:30pm-midnight. good mix of starters, pastas and that will ensure you keep coming This enoteca (tavern) is cut from mains that includes international back for more. BBB-BBBB H F a traditional cloth, with its wall of and Thai inspired options. If you like wines and a bar groaning under sweet drinks, make sure you take Indus the weight of various dried meats, advantage of the extensive cocktail Indian. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily cheese wheels and platters of an- list to go with your meal. BB-BBB F 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm (last tipasti. It’s a charming little place, es- order) pecially at night as there are tables Giusto Those who see Indian as a freaky set inside overlooking a brightly-lit Italian. 16 Sukhumvit Soi 23, culinary adventure could find a front yard, through a wall of arched 02-258-4321. MRT Sukhumvit. Open reassuring guide in Indus. Not only is windows. Bold dishes like the risotto daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-10:30pm. it an ambient spot where beautiful with licorice and saffron or oxtail Giusto is one of the most renowned people flock to be seen, the kitchen in tomato and red wine sauce with Italian kitchens in town. Set in a does a good job serving up much celery and raisin are testament to lovely house with light chocolate lighter versions of the usual favorites Enoteca’s ambitions to be more than walls, the place has the warmth and like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas and just another Italian joint in Bangkok. coziness of a modern home. The seafood. They also have a beautiful BBBB F food is lip-smacking, whipped up backyard where you can enjoy your with top-quality ingredients. Its appetizers with cocktails. BBBB H F Exhibit Café comprehensive wine list comprises

International, Thai. 235/28-31 shipments from Italy, France and Indus Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-3636. Open Spain that are on offer by the glass daily 11am-10pm. so that you can match a different Despite the venue’s name, art only wine with each course. BBBB H F plays a secondary role to the actual dining, but it is clearly the inspira- Il Tartufo tion for the gallery-like décor: bare Italian. 64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, concrete floors, plain white walls 02-259-3569. Open daily 11am-11pm. and lots of spotlights pointed at the Nestled at the end of Soi 51 in its artwork. The menu is equally no- charming house with an equally nonsense, if extensive, focusing on delightful garden area, there’s those twin favorites: pasta and Thai actually quite a lot that’s both dishes with good quality ingredients. surprising and contemporary about Il Like the art featured on its walls, Tartufo. For a start, it has a light and Exhibit Cafe might not use the most breezy atmosphere thanks to the thrilling palettes, but apart from the bright and airy interior with its occasional missed stroke, the decent stonework floors and vibrant yellow food and warm service mean visits walls. But it’s the menu that is

Top Tables 2011 l 25 upper sukhumvit Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

La Bottega Di Luca Koi Italian. Terrace 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-204-1731. Open daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, 5:30pm-midnight. The latest project of well-traveled chef Luca Appino, this deli cum restaurant sticks to traditional recipes but stands out thanks to its distinct emphasis on fresh and, when pos- sible, homemade ingredients. A range of authentic dishes takes you on a tour of different cities in Italy as indicated on the menu. BBBB F

Le Dalat Vietnamese. 57 Sukhumvit Soi 23, Le Bottega Di Luca 02-664-0670. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. We must admit to being slightly dis- appointed when we discovered that Le Dalat had swapped its beautiful wooden home and moved up the road to a purpose-built venue. Still, the new entrance does manage to evokes shades of Hanoi temples and they did at least keep the beautiful antiques and frankly bizarre collec- tion of sexual imagery in the toilets. Even more importantly they also retained their commitment to quality ingredients and royal Vietnamese cuisine to produce dishes that you Khua Kling Pak Sod Koi won’t find anywhere else. If you are Thai. 98/1 Thong Lor Soi 5 (Sukhumvit Fusion, Japanese. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 20, a novice, don’t worry: just let the Soi 55), 02-185-3977. Open daily 02-663-4990. Open Mon-Sat 11am-2pm, 5:30-9pm (last order). 6pm-midnight. team of impeccable waiters guide you through the comprehensive This eatery is unapologetically A favorite of Thai and international menu, which includes plenty of clas- Southern, hitting every spicy note, celebrities alike, this place has a sics like pho, bánh cuon and chao which genuine home cooking from minimalist yet lively vibe. The food tom. BBB F those parts is all about. Under the is fusion, more LA Japantown than rule of a matriarch chef hailing from Japan: delicate yellowtail carpaccio- Chumpon, the single-room restau- style dressed with grape seed oil; Le Vendome rant is family-run. She’ll point you to ponzu sauce and wasabi-marinated French. 267/2 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-0530-1. Open Mon-Sat the signature dish, a Southern classic roe; hamachi-scented with truffle oil, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. of course, khua kling, which they among others. The prices may be This two-story house has a purpose- recommend with diced pork. It can high, but you will be too intoxicated built kitchen, shaded garden, its own be hazardous if you don’t watch out by the sexy candlelit surroundings to pool, and posh private rooms for for the chilis, but that’s just the way really care. BBBB H F big-spending VIPs. From langoustines it’s meant to be. BB H and Canadian lobster to foie gras and baby lamb chops, this classic French

26 l Top Tables 2011 upper sukhumvit Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

menu is packed with intricately Le Vendome Ma Du Zi Restaurant by Yuya designed recipes that let the true flavors of the premium ingredients shine through. BBBB F

Ma du zi Restaurant by Yuya French, Japanese. Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-615-6400. BTS Asok. Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. Japanese Chef Yuya Okuda’s food is very recognizably French, only very light, very subtle and with seamless exotic touches. For example, you’d never really notice the thin strips of puffer fish brightening your wagyu tartar, or that the scallops with caviar France and a stint at a Joel Robuchon are on a bed of pureed roots, not restaurant in Japan. Best of all, Ma a boring (or comforting as people Du Zi, despite its no walk-ins policy, like to call it) mash. Yuya has some is finally priced within reach of serious cred, too, with two years in a mortals. BBBB F Relais & Chateaux hotel restaurant in

Top Tables 2011 l 27 upper sukhumvit Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

less delicious Nashville or Oh My God Spring Summer Rolls sound too bizarre, try one their 12 varieties of pasta—more traditional but equally memorable. BBB H

Spring Summer International. 199 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-392-2747/8. Open daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, 6-11pm. Set in a pleasantly peaceful, grassy compound this actor-owned restau- rant dishes out Thai fusion recipes like spicy peanut calamari or spring pad Thai with sea prawn. The spa- cious all-white house charms with its modern minimalist décor. On a cool day, snag a seat out on its large Philippe Sonie’s green lawn. Don’t forget to drop by Summer next door (open noon-mid- French. 20/15-17 Sukhumvit Soi 39, Fusion, Italian, Japanese. 9/2 Sukhumvit 02-259-4577/8. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Soi 31, 02-260-8386-7. MRT Sukhumvit. night) for their particularly tempting Mon-Sat 11:30am-2pm; daily 6-10pm. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2pm, desserts like the decadent chocolate 5:30-10:30pm. Enjoy classic French fare and good treat named Better than Sex. BBB wine while rubbing shoulders with Don’t be put off by the sound of the the local bigwigs. The food is just as odd mix of cuisines—Japanese and The Cup Restaurant and classic as the stately decor: foie gras, Italian. Sonie’s does both with flair Tea Room escargots and plenty of truffles. Its and panache. The irresistible, forever- British. 3/F, Lake Rajada Office Complex, affordable three-course set lunch with famous Sonie’s Sushi Pizza comes as Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-264-0247. Open its menu changing weekly is another thick blocks of seaweed laden with Mon-Sat 11:30am-6pm. reason to pay a visit to the knowl- sticky rice, crunchy shrimp, avocado, This magnet for hi-so ladies and edgeable, friendly staff. BBBB H F crabstick and roe—finger-licking good. young executives whips up British If the weird sounding but nonethe- classics like roast lamb drenched in

Top chains sometimes multiplicity rhymes with Quality

Crystal Jade Crystal Jade Chinese, Cantonese. G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-9363, 02-129-4343. Siam. Open Mon-Sat 11am-3pm, 5:30-10pm; Sun 11am-10pm. This classy Chinese bistro from Singapore is a bit more upscale than its sister branch at Erawan but features a selection of familiar Cantonese specialties, like la mian and xiao long bao. More venues at www.crystaljade.com. HF

28 l Top Tables 2011 upper sukhumvit Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

The Seafood Bar

rich gravy and some mean desserts proper kitchen to cook up the mod- and authentic Laotian dining in a like their apple pie a la mode. BBB ern American cuisine. Work up an classic setting. The traditional musi- appetite looking at the painted fish cians play dreamy wavering notes The Seafood Bar on the walls before selecting from round the base of the magnificent American, Seafood. Somerset Lake 20 different types of oysters and a tree that stands at the center of Place, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, range of perfectly grilled fish dishes the restaurant. Clad in traditional 02-663-8863. Open Tue-Sat 6-11pm; that changes daily. BBBB F Vientiane wear, the friendly wait Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm. staff is more than willing to arrange The Seafood Bar is the bigger, more Vientiane Kitchen less spicy somtam for your foreign centrally-located sister of the Oyster Laotian. 8 Sukhumvit Soi 36, friends before engaging in mock Bar, also owned by oyster importer 02-258-6171. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily swordfights for added entertainment. Bill Marinelli. While it retains the noon-midnight. BB H F emphasis on seafood, duh, more A good place to take your visiting space means more choice and a friends, this restaurant boasts fun

Je Ngor Greyhound Cafe Honmono Sushi Chinese, Seafood. 68/2 Sukhumvit Soi 20, International. G/F, J Avenue, Thong Lor Soi 15, Japanese. 19 Thong Lor Soi 23, 02-185-1447. 02-258-8008/9. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 02-712-6547. Open Sun-Thu 11am-10pm; Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 5:30-10pm. Fri-Sat 11am-11pm 11:30am-2pm. There are now 13 branches of this Like its sisters, this branch of Grey- Sushi is all about the raw materials. well-regarded seafood establishment, hound Cafe combines urban cool Honmono Sushi is an authentic Japa- though the two-building original on and comforting dishes. Most of all, nese restaurant that prides itself on the Siphraya Road is still the best. The Greyhound is reliable: same menu, freshness of its ingredients. With its decor is a bit aged, but you don’t go to same attentive staff, same reasonable creative sushi menus like the dragon Je Ngor for the atmosphere. Go instead prices and same touches of creativity avocado, the roasted matzusaka, and for fresh, well-prepared seafood. More that don’t you take you out of your the yummy salmon skin roll, the place venues at www.jengor-seafoods.com. comfort zone. This being Greyhound, is busting with sushi lovers. You don’t HF and this being Thong Lor, this is also have to fly all the way to Japan to a particularly fun spot for people well experience a typical Japanese restau- rewarded. More venues at www. rant anymore. More venues at www. greyhoundcafe.co.th. HF facebook.com/Honmono. F

Top Tables 2011 l 29 khao san

Chote Chitr ShambaraMisterpas

Chote Chitr good, maybe we should think about stone floors, concrete walls and the Thai. 146 Praeng Phuton Rd., moving closer to them. B-BB odd piece of funky art to catch the 02-221-4082. Open Mon-Sat eye. Aside from five small tables, the 11am-9pm. May Kaidee 2 remaining space is occupied by an The auntie/server/cook at Chote Vegetarian or Organic. 33 Samsen Soi 1, open kitchen. The menu is impres- Chitr has some of the best (and most 02-281-7699. Open daily 8am-10pm. sive with a huge all- day breakfast authentic) Thai food in town—and at Located just a short walk from Khao menu, pastas and daily specials. The amazingly low prices. The mee krob San Road, this shophouse restaurant spaghetti with crispy bacon, chili and yum thua phuu (wing bean sal- is a tourist destination in its own right. and basil and the pistachio crusted ad) are nothing short of miraculous. Listed in travel guides, like Lonely snapper fillet on nero spaghetti are Just don’t forget to bring a map, and Planet and Frommer’s, it has been pro- stand-outs. BB H watch out for the resident dogs! BB viding backpackers reliable, meat-free meals for almost two decades. Just Shambara Krua Apsorn make sure you skip farang favorites International, Thai. 138 Khao San Rd., Thai. Samsen Rd., 02-668-8788. Open and order what May does best—un- 02-282-7968. Open Tue-Sun 5-11:30pm. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm. pretentious homely Thai dishes. The This small eatery is hidden in a soi Despite the slightly grubby ambience cooking might not be that consistent off Khao San. It’s only 500 meters and the out-of-the-way location, but the eatery makes up for it with from the busy road but is it like be- the dishes here are special, in fast and friendly service, generous por- ing suddenly transported to a peace- part because they’re made the tions and pocket-friendly prices. B ful northern province. In a beautiful “old-fashioned” way and have been and serene house, the restaurant fine-tuned over decades. The awe- MisterPas serves both Thai and farang food. some mussels fried pad cha style, International. 140 Phra Athit Rd., Despite misfires, the kitchen delivers with basil, yellow chili, krachai (wild 02-629-3207. Open Tue-Sun 1-10:30pm. some surprisingly authentic Thai ginger) and green peppercorns are With its fresh ingredients, warm wel- dishes, some passable fusion and so plump and sweet that chefs from come and honest cooking, Misterpas decent Western comfort food. B other restaurants have inquired is well worth a visit. The décor, like about their source. With food this the menu, is simple but inventive:

30 l Top Tables 2011 what to eat today? what’s happening in town? where are the happy hours right now? what’s new and fantastic?

YOUR ANSWER is bkmagazine.com

dining events nightlife travel

Top Tables 2011 l 31 thong lor/ekkamai

Although cooked by a Thai doctor, Fuzio Harvey this is classic French fare, such as Italian. 6/F, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Burgundy escargots with garlic and Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily parsley and their in-house pate de 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. campagne. Mains are hearty affairs, Here, classic Italian recipes are mixed involving dishes like duck confit with with just enough modern touches to mustard sauce mashed potatoes and suit the locale and clientele. Its loca- the big-seller tender ox tail stew. tion atop the Mini Cooper gallery and A great alternative to many of the the modern lofted ceilings all make stuffy, expensive French restaurants in for a special experience. The recent town. BBBB H F renovation has made this place a lot lighter, with a very long white table 4 Garcons Al Majlis in the center of the room for cooking 83/8 Ekkamai Soi 12 (Soi Charoen Chai), demonstrations and some tableside 02-392-2345. Open Mon-Fri 4pm- cooking. BBB F 12:30am, Sat-Sun 2:30pm-12:30am. Located adjacent to Praduu Spa at the Harvey back of this small soi, Al Majlis is a American, International. 129 Thong Lor gem of a restaurant where elegance Soi 9, 02-712-9911. Open daily meets comfort. The spacious tea 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm. room transports guests to Morocco The upstairs private rooms at Harvey with its white draperies hanging are often fully booked by the rich and from the ceiling and the staff clad in 6th Fratello famous, and the downstairs dining kaftan shirts. Snug sofas and plump room and bar are usually buzzing Italian. 40/25 Ekamai Soi 12, pillows complete this ideal spot for 02-391-9946. Open Tue-Sun 11am- with beautiful people and bossa nova. 2:30pm, 5:30-10pm a lingering tea-sipping session. The The trained staff glide between tables menu is concise, featuring a variety of The food shows imagination and in the slightly minimalist glass and teas, a few light dishes, some Middle a dedication to fresh ingredients. concrete dining room. As for the food, Eastern inspired offerings and some The kitchen’s pride in their work billed Californian, it encompasses homemade cakes. They also have an transfers to the knowledgeable staff interpretations of American, French impressive selection of wines. BBB who are quick to offer intelligent and Italian, including clam chowder, H F recommendations. Appetizers include beef cheeks and double chicken mouthwatering soups like the blue consomme. BBBB E H F crab bisque. The risotto prawns with Bonjour mushrooms are light and zesty, French. 1217/2 Sukhumvit Soi 59, Hazara and the duck breast is spot on with 02-714-2112. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-1am. Indian. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, crispy skin and tender meat. Despite 02-713-6049. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily the less-than-full dining room, 6th We actually think the departure of 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm. Fratello is definitely a restaurant that Bonjour’s French chef was a good Hazara is the more popular part of thing. The young Thai guy now at the deserves our support. BBB F The Face’s elegant compound that kitchen’s helm is ready to experiment also houses Lan Na Thai and Face and has a very sure hand—and he’s new 4 Garcons Bar, plus a spa and bakery. The been in France long enough to have north Indian food here is definitely French. 1/F, Oakwood Residence, 113 all the basics covered. He’s also much Thong Lor 13, 02-713-9547. Open daily excellent (though pricy), the space is 11:30am-10:30pm. (Note they will be better at using local products which, always packed and the decor is stun- closed for one month in April 2011.) along with the introduction of set ning—hardwood carpentry and exotic Four men with respectable day jobs in menus, have brought the prices down crafts. Great for special occasions or to more realistic levels. BBBB H F the high flying fields of law, medicine entertaining foreign visitors. BBBB F and finance decided to partner up and open a restaurant on Thong Lor.

32 l Top Tables 2011 thong lor/ekkamai

Al Majlis Crepes & Co.

Bonjour

Fuzio

Top Tables 2011 l 33 thong lor/ekkamai

Iron Fairies Khun Churn

Kubpo Hanako

new Iron Fairies with wooden paneling, cushioned Pick new Phuket Town 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lor), banquettes and intricate bamboo Southern Thai. 160/8 Soi Thong Lor 084-520-2301. Open daily 6pm-2am. lanterns adorning the ceiling. The (corner of soi 6), 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm Fashioned after a Dickensian factory, menu is down-to-earth and straight- with blackened walls, antique (and forward—delicious meat-free meals The cute, bright shophouse welcomes functional) machines and a narrow, prepared using tofu, mushrooms and people in with its huge windows and metal staircase that curls up through rare, indigenous veggies as the core cute wooden front door that trans- the middle of the room, Iron Fairies ingredients. B-BB F ports you to the old quarter of the fa- is a popular nighttime hangout mous Southern town. But the food is among celebrities and laymen alike. Pick Kubpo Hanako the real star of the places, with classic The menu highlights an exciting list Japanese. 113/1 Thong Lor Soi 13, Phuket dishes like kai thod kamin of absinthe-based cocktails and giant 02-712-6371/-2. Open daily (fried chicken with turmeric), kanom 5pm-midnight. Australian beef burgers. Don’t forget jeen nam ya poo (rice vermicelli with to order the Old Man Jap Wedges to The main reason we like this restau- crab curry) and stir fried sataw with go with yours. BB-BBB H rant with adjoining karaoke bar so shrimp. B-BB H much, next to the cool ambience and Khun Churn flirtatious service, is that we can pop Red in for a snack, or a luxurious meal, at Thai, Vegetarian or Organic. G/F, Indian. 124 Thong Lor Soi 9, Bangkok Mediplex Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 10pm. In addition to table seating, 02-259-7590. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 42, 02-713-6599. BTS Ekkamai. Open Hanako also has a teppanyaki bar 5:30-11pm. daily 10am-8:30pm. and some nifty private tatami rooms. A chic, contemporary spot with Originally from Chiang Mai, this fami- The food is good, too: steamed cool gray walls and some red ac- ly-run eatery is tucked away in the clams, broiled eggplants, sashimi, cents. The kitchen claims a fusion relatively quiet Bangkok Mediplex. and fried stuff like tempura and of India-meets-the-West creations, The atmosphere is classy yet casual, breaded Hiroshima oysters. BB F though the menu is largely Indian

34 l Top Tables 2011 thong lor/ekkamai

Red Soul Food Mahanakorn

classics like tandoori chicken, tikka neighborhood restaurants. But look here is on small plates to be enjoyed and red mutton curry with garlic closely and there are also homey, with lots of drinks. The menu does naan. There’s also a rich, legitimate old-fashioned recipes which might dishes like grilled longan, feta and vegetarian selection. The desserts remind you of your grandmother’s cucumber salad and layered red do have some fun, fusion flair, with cooking, such as kaeng khua hoy and black beans and fromage blanc the layman’s deep-fried sweet jalebi khom (cockles curry) and “boneless” topped with gruyere. Among the coming with an apple flavor, and the sundried tapian fish, which is fried non-veg options, don’t miss the pork rasmalai, cottage cheese dumplings to such a crisp you can even eat the belly with pickled radicchio. BB-BBB in sweet cream sauce, spiked at Red bones. B with caramel. BBB-BBBB Pick new Soul Food Pick new Serenade Mahanakorn Pick Ruea Thong Western. Grass Complex, 264/1 Soi Thai. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thai. 351/2 Thong Lor Soi 17, Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55), Thong Lor), 085-904-2691, 02-714-7708. 02-185-2610. Open Mon-Sat 02-713-8409. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 6pm-mid- 11:30am-2pm; daily 5-11pm. Closed Sun-Thu 5:30-11:30pm, Fri-Sat night. every 2nd and 4th Sun of the month. 5:30pm-1am One of the most significant new res- Despite its tatty appearance, the It is tragic that Serenade hasn’t yet taurants to open in 2010, Soul Food two-story shophouse makes you been adopted by hip and devoted is strong on both fronts: it dishes out feel comfortably at home, as does restaurant goers the way Soul Food very strong (double pours, actually) the family-style service from veteran Mahanakorn and Iron Fairies have original signature cocktails like the staff. The décor is nothing to write been. The shared small plates and Bun Bang Fai (a mix of tequila, lime, home about, but the food certainly cocktails concept, as well as the chilli, almond syrup and egg white) is. At first glance, the menu might regularly changing menu of exciting as well as a brief menu of perfectly not look that exciting as it lists a few dishes make this a pretty unique executed Thai regional dishes like dozen standards you can find at most option in our fair city. The emphasis khao mok kai, tamarind ribs and pad

Top Tables 2011 l 35 thong lor/ekkamai

Triplets

The Garret To Die For krapao made with Australian lamb. The combo has a heady, infectious effect on the hip and beautiful as the place is packed almost every night of the week. BBB H

new The Garret Rooftop, Mini Showroom, 99/99 Ekkamai Soi 7, 02-711-6999. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight. Instead of monopolizing that entire, gorgeous rooftop space with just one restaurant, the folks at Fuzio now have a second eatery, one of the first to serve what it calls New American cuisine, a big trend in foodie cities in

Top Exotic Eats Himalaya La Cuchara Nepalese. 235/5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-4489. Open daily 11am-10:30pm. When we come across a tiny restaurant that does Himalayan cuisine (focusing on dishes from Nepal, Bhutan and Kashmir) with loads of vegetarian options, we can’t help but commend the place just for existing. But Himalaya has a few more things going for it. The room is filled with floor seating, mountain photos and prayer flags, the food is humble and uncool, and we like them for it. It’s not Indian fine dining, and it’s not a South Indian vegetarian lunch. It’s a whole other, albeit related, cuisine, one sorely lacking in town.

36 l Top Tables 2011 thong lor/ekkamai

affordable results—all made to order Xuan Mai by Chicago-returned Royal Projects enthusiast Chef Nate, at the homey open kitchen that dominates one side of the space. BBB F

Pick Xuan Mai Vietnamese. 351/3 Thong Lor Soi 17, 02-185-2619. Open Tue-Sun 11am- 2:30pm, 6-11pm. This is the second location for what may well be the best Vietnamese food in Bangkok. Chef Me Yung is an expert at sourcing the best ingredients, either from local markets America. In a high ceilinged, Boardwalk slant and occasional nods to local or directly from Vietnam, and cook- Empire-esque vintage setting, they do tastes: baked clams with garlic but- ing them perfectly. Her mastery of meat-heavy dishes done simple, like ter, Thai-style spicy pasta, beef stew. textures, colors and flavors make a lamb skewers, enormous burgers and It’s also a sexy lounge with plump heady mix that redefines addictive. some hearty salads. BBB-BBBB F sofas and a sizeable bar. BBBB H F Many dishes here are unlikely to find their way onto the menus of To Die For new Triplets French. 6/F, Parnjit Tower, Sukhumvit other Vietnamese restaurants in International. 988 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Soi 55 (Thong Lor), 02-712-8066. Open Bangkok including the banh mi thit, Thong Lor), 02-381-4714. Open Sun-Thu Wed-Sun 6-10pm. 4pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-1am. or Vietnamese sandwich, and the hu It may be on the sixth floor of an tieu my tho, its southern-style coun- Located in hipster enclave H1’s court- office building, but not only does terpart. Don’t miss the cha ca Hanoi, yard, To Die For ticks all the right Triplets boast lovely views in the or grilled catfish, which arrives in its boxes to excite trendy Thonglorites: evening, it’s maybe the restau- own wok, with handfuls of fresh dill modern furnishings, rough brick rant most seriously dedicated to and homemade fermented shrimp wall, intricate light fixtures and artsy locally-sourced products. The food is paste, representing another unique details. The menu is comforting Eu- interesting, French-style cooking with foray into Hanoi cuisine. BBB ropean dishes with a Mediterranean

Habesha La Cuchara Pardis Ethiopian. G/F, Royal Garden Home Hotel, 63/1 Colombian. 2/38 Rama 4 Soi 1 (Sathorn), Iranian. 894-8 Rama 4 Rd., 02-637-1008. Open Sukhumvit Soi 3 (Soi Nana), 02-253-5458, 02-679-9910 Open daily noon-10:30pm. daily 12-11pm. 086-012-5490. Open daily 10am-10pm. Where else can you go on an authentic You might be surprised to learn that this Possibly the only Ethiopian place in culinary adventure surveying the best in 200-seat, two-story restaurant is actually Bangkok, we Habesha credit for its Columbian, Cuban and Latin American serving up such a specialist cuisine, but novelty value, even if the food can be hit- cuisine? The décor matches the cuisine they do it in some style. Bathed in white or-miss. It arrives as it should, on a giant with a riot of colors from vibrant reds to light and decked out with chic fittings it’s platter lined with traditional sourdough shocking greens while a host of crucifixes a pleasantly minimalist setting to enjoy enjera (teff flour) bread. The presence watch over the small dining space (it’s so traditional dishes like the bagali polo of Ethiopian uncles lends authenticity, as small the kitchen is next door). The food and manicheh (a platter of rice and lima does the little set up on the floor, where (like the La Cuchara Chicken) is homely, beans with a leg of lamb) as well as a they roast their own coffee beans. So if also carb and protein heavy. If nothing range of kebabs. even if you might not always like the else, the cocktails, ambition and atmo- food, you should go anyway, because it’s sphere of La Cuchara are enough reason cheap and cozy and worth experiencing for a return visit. at least once.

Top Tables 2011 l 37 riverside

China House Le Normandie

Mei Jiang

China House Pick Le Normandie Mei Jiang Chinese. Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental French. The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Chinese. The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Ave. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open Charoen Nakhon Rd., 02-861-2888. BTS 6:30-10:30pm. Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm; daily Saphan Taksin. Open daily 11:30am- 7-10:30pm. 2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. China House is one sexy place: the tiny aquamarine bar, the deep red The Mandarin Oriental’s showcase This elegant establishment overlook- and black lacquers, the films playing restaurant needs little introduction. ing the Chao Phraya River offers in the toilets. While there are cheap- For years it has set the standard for one of the best dim sum experi- er places with greater reputations, service and cuisine—and the ences in town. The food is authentic we still think China House is a win- breathtaking river views aren’t bad. Cantonese fare, while the service ning blend of style and substance. Dinner can easily break the bank, but is knowledgeable and courteous. Classics like the sweet and sour pork if you’ve ever wondered what There’s even a cool display of tea can be truly masterful, while the bourgeois French families have for on the counter and specially-trained shrimps in a creamy wasabi sauce their dejeuner, order yourself their staff so you can have your very own never fail to elicit oohs from us. Our three-course set menu. A sample mini tea ceremony. BBBB E H F tip: go for the Sunday brunch and try set: homemade meat pie, duck and to snag one of the cozy, two-person pork belly casserole with garlic confit window booths. BBBB E H F and creme brulee. Le Normandie is ideal for any occasion. Then you can gleefully throw your empty wallet into the Chao Phraya. BBBB E H F

38 l Top Tables 2011 narathiwas

The Oyster Bar

Pick Kuan Ah Pick Pen Pick The Oyster Bar Chinese. 884/9 Rama 3 Rd., Chinese, seafood. 2068/4 Chan Rd., Seafood. 395 Narathiwas-Ratchanakarin 02-682-7747/-8. Open daily 02-286-2344/3058. Open daily Soi 24, 02-212-4809. Open Tue-Sat 10am-10pm. 11am-2pm, 5-11pm. 6-11pm; Sun noon-3pm, 6-10pm.

After over a half-century serving Wall-hangings made with bits of Set up by oyster importer Bill khao man gai and a handful of other glass in different colors and gold leaf, Marinelli as a space where he could Hainanese staples, Kuan Ah mirrored walls, heavy teak chairs and wine and dine potential customers expanded their menu and moved to tables, plastic flowers—it’s as though this place quickly developed a life of this purpose-built “complex” on a this restaurant was frozen in the its own, pulling in people from all quiet stretch of the Chao Phraya 1970s (although it’s been around over town keen to sample the range River. But, frankly, the venue itself is much longer). Most importantly, Pen of fresh oysters flown in twice a about as stylish as a cafeteria. The is still committed to sourcing the best week from Canada and the USA focus here is obviously on the food, ingredients—seafood, in particular— and, rare for Bangkok, a modern which is terrific, the kind of and cooking in a manner that brings American seafood menu. Don’t miss confident, presentation-be-damned out the true flavors of those the good value Sunday brunch. cuisine you can only get in places ingredients. Everything is wonderful BBBB H F that have been in business this long. here but you’re really in luck if the Must-orders are the famous chicken aging owner is around to pick what and “sukiyaki,” which is ideally really stands out that day. BB F enjoyed at one of the 40 or so outdoor tables. BB F

Top Tables 2011 l 39 Review Policy

Anotai

• pays for its meal. • does not call ahead or sit with the chef. • does its reviews anonymously. • waits 4-6 months before

reviewing new restaurants. Pick Anotai Vegetarian or Organic. 976/17 Soi Rama 9, Rim Klong Sam • does not hesitate to give Sen Rd., 02-641-5366-7. Open Thu-Sun 10am-9:30pm; Mon 1-2 star reviews—even to 10am-9:30pm; Tue 10am-9:30pm. This small, friendly health-conscious eatery and advertisers. adjoining yoga studio offers a menu that lists several Thai dishes (healthy food in its own right) along with green salads, pastas and Japanese tofu and tempeh In this guide, we’ve selected creations. Rice dishes are served with clear broth, and only our strongest three-star there is a mouth-watering selection of homemade desserts to warm the heart if not trim the waistline. restaurants and, of course, BBB H F four-to-five star restaurants. The latter are labeled Pick Pick Janhom Thai. 273/4 Ramkhamhaeng Soi 21, 02-319-1128/9. Open Tue-Sun 11am-9:30pm. Janhom is one of the top restaurants for authentic Southern cuisine in the capital. Here, there is no sugar to accommodate Bangkokians and only solid tongues can take the heat. Janhom’s matriarch hails from Surat Thani and her reputation reaches all the way to Chiang Mai, Disagree with our reviews? where she has another branch. Despite uncompromis- ingly hot dishes, an increasing number of patrons are Post your own comments at coming to this distant, non-descript soi in Ramkham- www.bkmagazine.com/dining haeng that’s always busy, especially at dinner. B-BB F

40 l Top Tables 2011 elsewhere

new Wine 33 Wine 33 Crystal Design Center, Zone E, 1420/1 Praditmanoontham Rd., 02-102-2233. Open daily 5pm-1am. Nothern Bangkok’s answer to Wine Connection (minus the actual wine store), this atmospheric glass house is a partnership between Singha (owners also of PB Valley in Khao Yai) and Pla Dib, those extraordinary servers of raw fish. The wine list is divided into Good, Suan Thip Better and Best, to help you choose, Suan Thip and the food menu is pretty seafood Thai. Chaeng Watthana Rd., 02-583-3748. heavy with some modern gastro Open daily 11am-10pm. touches like sous-vide and foaming. With unlimited alfresco dining options Try the raw tuna with lime foam for from a leafy garden under the stars something fatty and zesty. F and graceful pavilions to the open-air terrace overlooking the river, outdoor- loving diners have it good at this spacious restaurant. Its lip-smacking Thai food is a big bonus. Don’t forget the mosquito repellent. BBB H F

Top Tables 2011 l 41 Advertorial Dining essentials

Aldo’s Ambassador Hotel Bed Supperclub 7/F, The Ascott, Sathorn Rd., 02-676-6982. 171 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-254-0444. Open 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537. Open daily 11:30am-10pm daily 11am–2pm, 6pm–10:30pm Open Tue-Sun 7:30pm-1am Upstairs from the very cool Cascade A great option for those wanting to Eating at Bed Supperclub is an Club and Gym, Aldo’s offers not only enjoy dishes from around the world experience unlike any other in the poolside city views in a rustic, copper- in sophisticated surroundings without city. As you lounge on your gleaming tinged space, but also one of only two breaking the bank, the Am Cafe’s white bed, order a stiff cocktail and wine lists recognized in Bangkok by international brunches and dinners are get ready for a world class show that Wine Spectator Magazine. As for the hard to beat. Alternatively just stick to blends cutting edge choreography, a food, there’s a brief menu of French and China, with the variety of Cantonese certain oddball humor and some ir- Italian-tinged Mediterranean dishes like and regional specialties, including resistible sex appeal. The food comes grilled hake, pastas, salads and steaks. traditional dim sum, served up at with an exciting modern presentation They also do a very affordable set lunch Hong Teh on the second floor. worthy of the club’s futuristic allure, for the business types in the area. but the flavors are also comforting and solid.

Fuzio Isao Ma Du Zi Rooftop, Mini Showroom, Ekkamai Soi 7 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645. 9/1 Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-615-6400. (Sukhumvit Soi 63), 02-711-6999. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm; Open daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10pm Sat-Sun 11am-10pm Chef Yuya Okuda worked at presti- Fine dining is hard to come by in The owner and head chef learned her gious Relais & Chateaux hotels in Ekkamai, so we’re excited that, after trade in Chicago and there are cer- France and at the multi-Michelin-star a several-month renovation, the new tainly plenty of American influences chef Joel Robuchon’s restaurant in and improved Fuzio is back and a in the wonderfully inventive sushi Japan. By blending discrete touches lot more cheerful, almost Mediter- and sashimi dishes on offer at this of Japanese techniques and ingredi- ranean, thanks to its blue and white unpretentious, but always popular, ents into his French food, Chef Yuya tones. The menu remains heavy on little restaurant. Must-tries include the concocts dishes that are both more the Italian, and while they may have volcano, a meaty scallop covered in personal and much lighter—and are lost the rooftop to The Garrett, the a spicy sauce and served in its shell guaranteed to renew your excitement two restaurants are under the same and the addictive and unusual sushi for French food. ownership, so you can still head there sandwiches. for a drink.

42 l Top Tables 2011 Advertorial

Patara Ruen Urai Sha Raku 375 Thong Lor Soi 19 (Sukhumvit Soi 118 Surawong Rd., 02-662-8268/-72. 14 Sukhumvit Soi 23. 02-664-0348. 55), 02-185-2960. Open daily Open daily noon-11pm Open daily 5pm-midnight 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm This gorgeous wood pavilion is This well established chain in Kyoto With servers in traditional Thai packed to the rafters with antiques, makes it first foray into Bangkok attire, an elegant oriental décor, and creating an enchanting mood of with this restaurant, located in a contemporary Thai cuisine, Patara has aristocracy and the charm of a bygone lavishly renovated former home, a long attracted hi-sos from old families era. But not only is this century-old few steps from Sukhumvit Road. Not and up-and-coming power players. home one of the most exquisite places surprisingly, the emphasis is firmly on The class surrounds you as soon as you to have dinner in Bangkok, the Thai classic Japanese dishes but there are enter and are seated among the vibrant food served here is of the highest a staggering 200 plus to choose from silk pillows, in the lounge for pre-dinner standards: delicately presented and and an equally impressive 300-odd cocktails. As for the food, expect great prepared with the utmost authenticity. drinks from sake to cocktails to wash attention to detail with Thai classic them all down with. dishes, and a few Westernized platters, like tacos, thrown in.

Shanghai Mansion Torajiro 479-481 Yaowaraj Rd., 2/1 Soi Athakavi 1, Sukhumvit Soi 02-221-2121. Open daily 26, 02-259-6075-6. Open daily 6.30am-10.30pm 5pm-midnight The cozy boutique hotel is a This beloved Japanese chain has throwback to 1920s Hong Kong now expanded to include three or Shanghai, with lots of wood branches. Their success is down and silk upholstery in bright to keeping things simple and solid colors. The dining outlet here, Cotton, doubles as a jazz focusing on classic Japanese dishes, covering everything from venue at night and offers a mix of Chinese and Thai dishes with sashimi to tonkatsu at very affordable prices. Favorites include a few American wild cards, like sweet barbeque ribs thrown in the okonomi yaki (Japanese pizza) and the extensive range of for good measure. noodle dishes from ramen to soba treats.

Wine Pub Vatel 2/F, Pullman Bangkok King 2/4 Borommarachachonnani Rd., Power. 8-2 Rangnam Rd., Talingchan, 02-880-9684/-6. 02-680-9999. Open daily Open Mon-Sat 11am-2pm, 6pm-2am 6-10pm. The pub that finally took wine Vatel takes an unlikely location off of its pedestal in Bangkok for a French restaurant—the has now become an institution Talingchan strip on the outskirts of sorts: rarely do Western restaurants so ably bridge nightlife of Bangkok—and made it a homey alternative for unfussy diners (Wine Pub regularly welcomes top international DJs and live looking for an affordable French meal. Run by Silpakorn Uni- acts) and dining. It may be better known for its casual fare, from versity International College and Vatel Institut to prepare hotel tapas to burgers, but Wine Pub also has a full-on a la carte menu management students, service is always attentive. Plus, there are with plenty of great meat and fish options to go with their incred- some great set menu options, making Vatel a great spot to sample ibly inexpensive wine. French fare without a bank breaking.

Top Tables 2011 l 43 where to eat today?

what visiting chef is in town?

where are the best dining deals right now?

what new place just opened?

YOUR ANSWER is bkmagazine.com

dining events nightlife travel

Top Tables 2011 l 44 index

# Chesa 24 H China House 38 4 Garcons 32 Chote Chitr 30 Habesha 37 6th Fratello 32 Crepes & Co. 20 Harvey 32 Crystal Jade 28 Hazara 32 La Cuchara 37 Himalaya 36 A Cup Restaurant (The) 28 Honmono Sushi 29 Ae Seafood 6 Hyde and Seek 17 Al Majlis 32 D Aldo's 12 I Anotai 40 Dalat (Le) 26 Indigo 8 Arirang 19 Déjà Vu 15 Indus 25 Aubergine 6 Demi 24 D’Sens 6 Iron Fairies 34 B J E Baan Garagade 6 Janhom 40 Eat Me 6 Baan Pa Jazz 16 Je Ngor 29 Enoteca Italiana 25 Bacco 24 Jok Kitchen 17 Erawan Tea Room 17 Banyan (Le) 0 Exhibit Café 25 Beaulieu (Le) 20 Extra Virgin 25 Bed Supperclub 19 K Bei Otto 19 Khua Kling Pak Sod 26 Bharani 24 Khun Churn 34 Biscotti 16 F Koi 26 Bo.lan 24 Fuzio 32 Krua Apsorn 30 Bonjour 32 Kuan Ah 39 Boqueria 16 G Kubpo Hanako 34 Bottega di Luca (La) 26 Gaggan 17 Kuppa 20 Bouchon (Le) 8 Garret (The) 36 Bourbon Street 24 Gianni Ristorante 17 Giusto 25 L Greenhouse 20 Lake House (The) 13 C Greyhound Café 29 Normandie (Le) 38 Café Chilli 14 Grossi Trattoria 17 Lim Kwong Meng 14 Café Siam (Le) 8 Limoncello 20

Top Tables 2011 l 45 index

M Reflexions 18 U Rib Room & Bar 22 Madison 18 Royal India 17 Unkai 10 Ma Du Zi 27 Ruea Thong 35 May Kaidee 2 30 Ruen Urai 9 Mei Jiang 38 V Minibar Royale 20 Misterpas 30 Vendome (Le) 26 Monita (La) 18 S Vertigo & Moon Bar 12 Sambuca 10 Vientiane Kitchen 29 Sa-Nguan Sri 18 N Salt 15 W Nadimo’s 9 Scala (La) 8 Water Library 12 Nahm 9 Seafood Bar (The) 29 Wine 33 41 New York Steakhouse 21 Serenade 35 Wine Connection 13 Niu’s 9 Serina 10 Wine Pub 13 Shambara 30 Shintaro 18 O Sonie’s 28 Soul Food Mahanakorn 35 X Opus 9 Spring Summer 28 Xinn Tien Di 18 The Oyster Bar 39 Sra Bua 14 Xuan Mai 37 Suan Thip 41 P Y Pardis 37 T Yamagoya 13 Pen 39 Table de Tee (La) 8 Yim Yim 17 Phuket Town 34 Tapas Café 22 Philippe 28 Tartufo (Il) 25 Pla Dib 15 Ten-Sui 22 Z To Die For 37 Zanotti 13 R Triplets 37 Zeist 22 Tsu & Nami 22 Rang Mahal 21 Tsukiji 10 Red 34

Top Tables 2011 l 46