OCR Document

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

OCR Document WOODWORKING PROJECT RECORD Check which unit enrolled in: Unit 1 Unit 2 Unit 3 Unit 4 Unit 5 Check all that apply to your project this year I used the following hand tools: hammer straight screwdriver phillips screw driver chisel coping saw cross-cut saw square sanding block fine sandpaper plane course sandpaper steel wool compass tape measure level clamps miter box nail pull nail set hand brace/drill vise awl files chalk line t-bevel straight edge I used the following power tools: hot glue gun drill screw gun table saw router miter box radial arm saw jig saw scroll saw vibrating sander lathe belt sander drill press jointer power plane band saw shaper power nailer sprayer gun I used the following types of bits (list): I used the following types of saw blades (list): I used the following grades of lumber (list): I used the following in my projects: followed a pattern made a pattern used plywood veneer used a kit used fibercore veneer used solid wood laminates plywood particle board glass treated lumber moldings wood glue dowels screws veneer edging nails drilled pilot holes plugs glued boards together putty/spackle counter-sink screw holes safety glasses push stick feather board used pre-made parts (legs, spindles, dowels, etc.) hand turned my own fancy parts I used the following to finish my projects: paint, what type? stain, what type? seal, what type? varnish, what type? sanding, how? tack cloth I used the following hardware in my projects: butt hinge offset hinge piano hinge other hinge, name: magnetic catch friction catch door/drawer pulls drawer slides I used the following types of joints in my projects: dovetail rabbet butt dado half-lap miter I used the following types of wood in my projects: oak maple pine birch walnut mahogany ash balsa teak What safety precaution(s) did you take when working on your project(s)? (Examples: safety glasses or goggles, protective hearing, apron, mask) Add anything not covered above that you used or did this year. You may enhance your record with story, photos (with captions) and/or news clippings. .
Recommended publications
  • WORKSHOP 6 Bookcase Project II Routing Dadoes and Rabbets
    WORKSHOP 6 Bookcase Project II Routing Dadoes and Rabbets, Curve Cutting, Sanding & Screwed and Plugged Joinery Date/Time: Saturday, Xtember tbd, 9 am to 12 noon Location: Mentor’s Shop Mentors: tbd Content: Follows FineWoodworking.com video “Getting Started in Woodworking” Season 2, Session 4, Rabbets and Dadoes with a Router; Session 5, Cutting Curves; Session 6, Sanding the Bookcase Parts; & Session 7, Joinery with Screws and Plugs. Description: Cutting Rabbets and Dadoes with a Router; Dadoes are square notches cut into the surface of a piece of lumber that hold the end of a joining board. They are perfect when building shelving or cabinetry as a way to join shelves and partitions. For this bookcase project, the dado joinery is reinforced with screws, although that added strength isn't essential to the joint. A simple but foolproof T-Square jig is built to assist in cutting the dadoes. This type of jig is designed to cut exactly 90 degrees to one edge, which is perfect for our shelf dadoes. You will also need a straight router bit. Ours is 3/4-in. diameter because our lumber measures that same thickness. Rabbets are similar to dodoes and groves in that they can go in the direction of the grain or across it. However, Rabbets are notches cut into the edge of a board. A rabbet is used to attach the back panel to the bookcase Laying Out, Cutting and Smoothing Curves; A changing radius curve isn't a section of a circle. This type of curve can be drawn with a variety of drawing tools, including french curves and battens.
    [Show full text]
  • Tips & Tricks for Project Boards
    Tips & Tricks for Project Boards What are project boards? Project boards are pre-finished, smaller, easy-to-transport, easy-to-store, easy-to-handle craft and hobby boards, available in a variety of styles and colors, excellent for a wide range of DIY home projects. Understanding project board finishes Charred – Our method of charring wood uses the Japanese technique of shou-sugi-ban to create artfully burned boards intended to create unique home décor projects, accent walls, crafts, hobbies and more. Rustic – These project boards are perfect for your next reclaimed-wood project. It's new lumber that has been distressed, primed and painted to have the authentic look and texture of vintage, rough-sawn, rustic barn wood. Getting a clean edge when sawing project boards Don’t own a saw? Ask a sales associate if complementary cutting is available. Most stores will cut as many pieces as you’d like to any dimensions you need. Feel free to bring your project instructions along so you’re ready to take advantage of this service when and where it’s offered. The professionals are there to help! All the cuts you need to make on your project boards can be made with a circular saw. A miter saw and table saw work too – and can save time on large jobs – but the circular saw is your Swiss army knife of cutting. Whichever saw you choose, make sure you’re using one with sharp carbide teeth. A high number of sharp teeth – at least 80 – will ensure clean cuts, while dull blades are more likely to chew up the edges of your wood.
    [Show full text]
  • Sanding Block Plan.Pdf
    Project: Sanding block plan Page 1 of 25 Sanding blocks plan Sanding the surfaces is one of the most important operations that needs to be done on wooden parts before the finishing. At the same time, sanding is time-consuming and one of the less interesting parts of woodworking. Besides that, during sanding you should keep in mind that any scar or scratch, regardless of its size, can show up after finishing coats of stain or varnish are applied. The importance of sanding is that this procedure removes hand tool or machine tool marks and smooths the surface of wood. This allows the reflective properties of the finishing materials to equalize and bring out the full beauty of the wood grain. By taking the time and care, using correct procedures and good selected grades of abrasives, the outcome will be finish of perfect quality and appearance. In professional workshops, sanding is done with power sanders (belt sander, pad sander or drum sander) or with sanding machines. In small and less equipped workshops, sanding is still done mainly by hand. Hand sanding also must be done on parts with complicated or complex curved surface as well as on small surfaces. Most woodworkers even after sanding with sanding machines and power sanders do the final sanding by hand. For the hand sanding, one of the irreplaceable tools is sanding block. A sanding block makes it easier to hold the sandpaper, maintain flatness of the surface and prolonges life of the sandpaper. Surface on the sanding block that sits on the sandpaper should be slightly resilient.
    [Show full text]
  • Equipment: This Includes, but Is Not Limited To: • Scroll Saw – Very Important, If You Want to Go the Cheaper Route, Get a Coping Saw
    To start, thank you all for your kind comments concerning my work, I really appreciate it. In this document I will try to show you all the “secrets” to making a custom razor handle, including how I do inlays. I will detail the step-by-step process and even reveal my favorite suppliers and equipment. If you ever thought, “I’d like to make MY own custom handle and not buy one from Mike”, then here is your chance. I’m not concerned about creating competition, if someone else wants to take up the torch and do this for a living then by all means knock yourself out. I enjoy handle making as a hobby, granted I promote it like a business, but that is only because it is such a small niche market that if I didn’t I would only be making handles for myself and would run out of projects pretty quick. -Mike- Equipment: This includes, but is not limited to: • Scroll saw – very important, if you want to go the cheaper route, get a coping saw. You need something that can handle curves. Dremel, Delta, Rigid, and Hawk are all excellent choices. Mine is a Rigid ($180). $80 - $400 • Band saw – not necessary, but nice. A 10” is sufficient. $59 - $150 • Dremel tool – get one! Besides the scroll saw this is the most important tool you will own. Dremel now has a cordless that is variable speed up to 30,000 RPM. It is awesome. I think it is called the Ion, or something, it has a Lithium Ion battery.
    [Show full text]
  • Myriad Systems
    Myriad Systems Installation Instructions and Details Contents Page General Notes 2 Typical System Perspective 3 Panel, Hardware & Trim Details 4-6 Hardware & Trim Fabrication Details 7-9 Installation Procedures 10-12 Installation with lights Procedures 13-15 For technical assistance, or if you have questions concerning your order, contact; Marlite 202 Harger St. Dover, Ohio 44622 330-343-6621 800-377-1221 [email protected] www.marlite.com Form # DC33-05081 Effective Date: 7/07 Page 1 of 15 Myriad Systems General Notes HIGH-HUMIDITY AREAS ; Many Myriad Panels are subject to the effects of moisture. DO NOT USE IN KITCHEN, REST ROOM OR OTHER HIGH-HUMIDITY AREAS. TOOLS REQUIRED ; Regular carpentry tools, such as a level, block plane, sanding block, drill, table saw or circular saw with fine-toothed carbide blade, chalk line, hack saw, tape measure, file, miter box, square, 4’-6’ or laser alignment tool and flat screwdrivers. CAUTION ; Be sure to use the proper safety guards required when cutting panels and trim. Also, wear safety glasses or face shields and hand protection. NOTE - Metal veneer products may produce sparks when cutting. Take proper precautions for dust removal. WALL PREPARATION ; Structural walls should be finished with building completely closed. Walls must be thoroughly dry before panels are applied. Panels must be applied over a smooth, solid, flat backing such as plaster, drywall or plywood. A vapor barrier should be use between backer and studs to discourage warping. Protect existing surfaces with drop cloths. PREPARATION/HANDLING TIPS ; Open cartons and carefully inspect all panels. Due to texture and manufacturing techniques, some panels may vary in color, consistency and pattern.
    [Show full text]
  • Handplane Essentials
    lending a Hand to low-angle block plane Power tools shoulder plane The four most useful handplanes for the modern power-tool woodshop. smoothing plane t’s easy to get labeled by your fellow wood- workers as a power-tool junkie (a Normite) or Ia hand-tool Luddite (a Neanderthal). The truth is that most woodworkers fall somewhere between those two extremes. And with good reason. Using a combination of hand and power tools jointer plane can be an effective one-two punch of quickness and accuracy. Power tools excel at converting rough stock to usable lumber, which is exhausting and tedious if done by hand. And hand tools provide the started. In fact, after much historical research and fine detailing and perfectly fit joints that can be a work at the bench, I’ve found that most woodwork- challenge to achieve with power tools. ers need only four handplanes to complement their So where do you start? Most of us begin power tools. woodworking with power tools, which allow us to accomplish great feats of furniture-building when LOW-ANGLE BLOCK PLANE our woodworking skills are in their infancy. As our The first plane you should buy is a low-angle skills develop it’s natural to become interested in block plane with an adjustable mouth. They are the hand tools. But many early attempts with planes simplest plane to sharpen and set up. They will open and chisels are usually stymied by one missing your eyes to what other planes can do. And they skill: sharpening. begin tuning your fine motor skills (such as where A keen edge is the secret to success with hand to apply pressure and sensing when you are cutting tools.
    [Show full text]
  • Assembly Instructions Updated February 2021
    BALLAD HARP KIT Assembly Instructions Updated February 2021 E WOOD PARTS A. Soundboard, Aircraft Birch B D H C F B. Back Panel A C. (2) Sides G D. (4) Long Trim Strips, Sides E. Short Trim Strip, Back F. Short Trim Strip, Front (Drilled) G. Inner Reinforcement Bar H. Pillar I. Pre-drilled Neck J. (2) Feet K. Top Block J L. Arched Cap Block I M. Inner Brace N. Base Reinforcement K M O. Base Block N O L HARDWARE Scrap Soundboard Piece (3) Wood Screw, 2” (34) Threaded Harp Tuning Pins Wood Dowel, 3/8” x 2” Brass Driver for Tuning Pins (2) Maple Wood Plugs, 3/8” dia. (10) Threaded Bridge Pins, Large Maple Wood Plug, 1/2” dia. Allen wrench, 3/32” Harp Medallion, 3/4” dia. (24) Threaded Bridge Pins, medium (3) Drill bits (1/8”, 7/64”, 3/16”) Allen Wrench, 5/64” (2 oz) Wire Nails, 17 guage, 3/4” long (24) Medium Brass Eyelets, 1/8” (4) Rubber Bumpers (10) Jumbo Brass Eyelets, 3/16” (4) Screws for Bumpers, #6 x 3/4” (2) #14 X 2” Wood Screws, Square Drive Tuning Wrench #3 Square Drive Bit Set of 34 Harp Strings (8) Wood Screws, 1-1/4” Spacing Guide for Bridge Pins (14) Wood Screws, 1-5/8” Assembly Instructions Musicmakers 14525 61st ST CT N Stillwater, MN 55082 TIPS TO MAKE THIS A SUCCESSFUL PROJECT _____A. Inventory and inspect all your parts carefully. If anything is missing or defective, please call or email us right away. 651-439-9120 _____B.
    [Show full text]
  • PROJECT PLAN Skill Level: Beginner Project Plans: 3D Wood Houses
    3D Wood Houses Nicole Francis | 1776FauxFarmhouse PROJECT PLAN Skill Level: Beginner Project Plans: 3D Wood Houses Materials Item Qty 1" x 8" x 8' Unfinished Whitewood Board 3 Finishing Nails 1 box Sanding Block: 40-Grit 1 Orbital Sanding Pad: 320-Grit 1 Chalk Paint 1 qt. Foam Roller 1 Paint Tray 1 Spray Paint 2 cans * Board Dimensions are "nominal". Actual dimensions are smaller due to lumber industry standards. Cuts are actual length. ** Starting grit will depend on board surface condition, a rough surface will require starting with a coarse grit first. Grit is measured in the coarseness of the particles on the sandpaper. The lower the grit number, the coarser the paper. Heavy sanding would require 60 to 80 grit, medium sanding would require 120 to 220 grit, and finish sanding would require 320 to 400 grit. Super fine sanding would be 600 grit and higher. A select/premium board or plywood comes with a smoother surface finish. It is clear or has very few tight knots, and it will have straight and sharp edges. This grade of wood pairs well with other boards or panels better and requires less time to sand and finish. Tools Used 10" Miter Saw 20V Circular Saw 1/2" Drill/Driver Orbital Sander Jigsaw Also Need: Finishing Nailer Permanent Marker 20V 1.5Ah Battery 20V Fast Charger Tape Measure Battery Tip: A 4.0 Ah battery is recommended to be paired with high amp draw tools for maximum efficiency. 2 Project Plans: 3D Wood Houses Lumber Cut List Board* Description Cut To Qty 1" x 8" Large House Triangle Point 18" 2 1" x 8" Large House Sides 14-15/16" 2 1" x 8" Medium House Triangle Point 13" 2 1" x 8" Medium House Sides 10" 2 1" x 8" Small House Triangle Point 9" 2 1" x 8" Small House Sides 6" 2 1" x 8" Top A 10-3/4" x 6-3/8" 2 * Board dimensions are “nominal.” Actual dimensions are smaller due to lumber industry standards.
    [Show full text]
  • Wood Surface Preparation
    HF-LRA.054 WOOD SURFACE PREPARATION The key to a successful refinishing job is the preparation of the surface. The wood surface must be smooth and clean; since any scratches will be more noticeable after the finish is applied than they are in the bare wood. Never use sandpaper on an antique. The surface preparation procedure you follow depends on the characteristics of the wood piece and the stripping (if any) procedure you followed. Sanding The majority of the surface preparation should be performed with steel wool. There will be cases, however, when it will be necessary to use sandpaper. If you are working with new wood which has never been finished, it is necessary to sand the wood to get a smooth, even surface. Sanding will also be necessary if the grain of the wood has been raised during stripping. If you must use sandpaper, read this section carefully. Sandpaper is defined by the type of abrasive used and also the size (or grit) of the abrasive particles. The major types of abrasives include: 1. Aluminum Oxide - very hard and durable abrasive grains good for sanding metals and hard woods. 2. Garnet - abrasive grains have very sharp edges, but they are not as tough as aluminum oxide grains. Good for all woodworking operations. 3. Flint - least expensive sandpaper. Flint has sharp edges but dulls fast because of low toughness and durability. Good for woodworking operations. 4. Emery - hard but dull particles that cut slowly resulting in a polishing action. Generally not recommended for use on wood but can be used for final smoothing operation.
    [Show full text]
  • Making Medieval Style Arrows
    The construction of medieval “style” arrows By Karsten von Meissen (mka Karsten Shein) As in the medieval world, archery in the are, however hundreds of depictions of SCA is commonplace. However, the limited archers shooting arrows, from the 8th time and money of many SCA participants Century up to the 17th (see figs 1-5). These leads them to purchase archery equipment arrows by and large appear to be of a fairly that may not be as “authentically medieval” uniform composition. They are all under a as they would like. It is therefore the yard long (given by the average draw length purpose of this paper to provide some of a typical archer of the day) and have three background on what constitutes a medieval feathers fletched to the base of the arrow. (circa 650 – 1650 AD) European arrow and The shape of the fletching varies but does how arrows of sturdy construction can be fall into three primary shapes, delta, shield, made by almost anyone for around the cost and parabolic. The arrow was fit to the of a set of ready-made modern arrows. bowstring by means of a nock, or groove, cut into the base of the arrow. The points, Part 1 - The medieval arrow many of which do survive, vary widely based, it is assumed, on their purpose. What did it look like? What was it made of? How big was it? These are not the easiest of As arrowheads are the most commonly questions to answer as there are no complete surviving pieces of medieval arrows (tens of surviving medieval arrows.
    [Show full text]
  • Frame-And-Panel Bed a Project Plan for Building a Classic Bed
    WTAUNTON’S Frame-and-Panel Bed A project plan for building a classic bed For more FREE ©2009 The Taunton Press project plans from Build an Oak Bookcase S m i pS eu lt, dr yW o kr b e n c h From Getting Started in Woodworking, Season 2 Simple,From Sturdy Getting Started inWorkbench Woodworking, Season 2 o u c a n t h a n k M i k e P e k o v i c hBY , AS Fine Woodworking Fine Woodworking’s art direc A CHRISTI Ytor, for designing this simple but From Getting Startedstylish bookcase. in Woodworking, He took a straightfor Season 2 A ward form--an oak bookcase with dado N A BYA CHRISTI-AS and rabbet joints--and added nice pro- A N A BYportions ASA and CHRISTI elegant curves. A N A - We agreed that screws would reinforce his workbench is easy and the joints nicely, and that gave us a de- inexpensive to build, yet is sturdy and sign option on the sides. Choose oak T LUMBER, HAR versatileplugs, and align the grain carefully, andDWARE D ANSUPP enough for any woodworker. 4 LIESLIS T his workbench is easy and inexpensiveThe basethe plugs isLU disappear.MBER, HAR MakeDWARE 8-ft.-longthem from AN Da2x4s, SUPP kiln-driedLIES LIST construction lumber (4x contrasting wood, like walnut,2 and the Tto build, yet is sturdy and versatile4s and 2x4s), joined4 8-ft.-long 2x4s,8-ft.-long kiln-dried 4x4s, kiln-dried rows of plugs add a nice design feature simply with long bolts and s 1 4x8 sheet of MDF Enjoy our entire site enough for any woodworker.
    [Show full text]
  • Review by Kurt Hertzog, Woodturning Design Magazine, June 2012 The
    Review by Kurt Hertzog, Woodturning Design Magazine, June 2012 The sanding block is pretty straightforward to use. Insert the proper-sized punch or dowel under the screw with sufficient extension to support the brass tube, but not be contacted by the sanding media. Clamp the sanding block to the cross slide of your disk or belt sander after you’ve ensured that it is square to the sanding face. Check to make sure the platen is perpendicular to the sanding media as well. The glued-up block is slid on the punch and the face of the block is sanded to the brass. Aligned properly, a sanded face that is perpendicular to the ID of the brass tube will be achieved. I’ve found that the sanding fixture also makes a great cutoff jig. You can use the pilot punch to support pen blanks when using the bandsaw to trim the excess stock away. The punch supports the blank nicely, and the cut is with respect to the ID of the tube, rather than the flat edge of the blank. Obviously, the flat edge of the blank may not be parallel to the ID of the tube. If the blank is already rounded, cutting this way can be done safely without searching for a V-block to support the blank during the cut. Though there are many drill- ing vises in my shop, having purchased some for myself as well as reviewing others as they became available, I can vouch for this sanding fixture. It does what it promises and is available at a very reasonable price.
    [Show full text]