The European Confederation of and (CELC) is the only European agro-industrial organization federating all the stages of production and transformation for linen & hemp. It oversees the fi ber’s development from plant to fi nished product. Created in 1951, privileged spokesperson for 10 000 European companies, the CELC incites refl ection, market analyses, industry concertation and strategic orientations.

With its CELC MASTERS OF LINEN promotional platforms, the confederation creates an ideal competitive context for industry companies. Its actions stimulate innovation and rely on the value of these natural fi bers with their proven environmental qualities : > through its Pole for fashion, home and lifestyle > through its Technical Pole for new technical opportunities such as eco-construction and high-performing composite products.

The Linen Dream Lab is a showroom dedicated to creativity and to textile or technical innovations. It offers services to innovators in the fashion, lifestyle and design industries > accompaniment in creation & aid in sourcing > publication of trend books and prototype fashion & home fabrics > material, and fabric library > a space for private meetings.

LINEN DREAM LAB PARIS 15, rue du Louvre – 75001 Paris – Tel +33 (0)1 42 21 06 83 LINEN DREAM LAB MILAN Via Orti 2 – 20122 Milano – Tel +39 02 55 18 16 45 trends@mastersofl inen.com

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH THE PARTICIPATION OF THE Linen Directions THEEUROPEAN PARTICIPATION UNION ANDOF THE FRANCE Fall-Winter 2012-13 EUROPEAN UNION AND FRANCE Linen Directions Fall-Winter 2012-13

447 C 19-4305 TC 1815 C 19-1331 TC 729 C 16-1235 TC La forza del lino, fi bra viva e vibrante, sta nella sua capacità di assimilazione e di integrazione! Assorbire l’eredità del passato per 437 C 17-1410 TC 209 C 19-1557 TC 5565 C 16-4408 TC Linen – a living, vibrant fi ber restituirlo oggi con forme innovative, whose strength lies in its capacity grazie alla R&D di tutta la fi liera. for assimilation, even absorption! Assorbire il colore in tutta la sua

Absorbing past heritage and qualità tintoriale. Assimilare la luce 534 C 19-3921 TC 173 C 18-1448 TC 5285 C 17-3917 TC refashioning it in new, innovative fi no a renderla tattile. Integrare forms, backed by the R&D of La force du lin, fi bre vivante et altre fi bre per restituirne l’essenza an entire industry. Absorbing color vibrante, réside dans sa capacité ed il tatto! with its tinctorial qualities. d’assimilation, voire d’absorption ! 497 C 19-1619 TC 200 C 19-1764 TC 466 C 15-1215 TC Absorbing light to the point of Absorber l’héritage du passé Fibra versatile e fl essibile. Il lino making it palpable. Absorbing pour le restituer aujourd’hui sous dà impulso e si adegua al gioco other fi bers to reveal their essence, des formes innovantes grâce del confronto. La sfi da? Rivelare but never losing its hand! à la R&D de toute une fi lière. e collegare, tradurre e dirottare, Absorber la couleur par ses qualités riconoscere un’impronta per meglio Warm Gray 7 C 17-1500 TC 7432 C 17-1818 TC White 11-0104 TC Linen – versatile and functional, tinctoriales. Absorber la lumière scostarsi. it creates an impulsion and readily jusqu’à la rendre tactile. Absorber, submits to these confrontations. enfi n, d’autres fi bres pour en Tra futuro visionario e diffusione The challenge? Reveal and relay, restituer l’essence, tout en gardant del saper fare, esprime il suo gusto Black 7 C 19-0506 TC 7475 C 18-4728 TC 7499 C 11-0205 TC convey and throw off course; la main ! per un dialogo ininterrotto in cui si recognize an impression to better scontrano immaginazione, emozioni stray. Fibre versatile et fusionnelle, le lin e realtà. Un abbinamento che osa

donne l’impulsion et se plie au jeu dar vita a sfi de creative e stimola il 5275 C 19-3926 TC 8321 C 18-6216 TC 5803 C 14-6308 TC Linen – between visionary future de ces confrontations. L’enjeu ? designer a innovare e a trasmettere. and traditional know-how, it exposes Révéler et relayer, traduire et its preference for an uninterrupted dérouter ; reconnaître une Emerge allora una nuova energia. dialogue, where imagination, empreinte pour mieux s’en éloigner. Armature in MUTAZIONE tra ombra 7497 C 18-0312 TC 1255 C 17-0843 TC 7520 C 13-1405 TC emotion and reality collide. e luce o effetti 3D; emozioni An exalted combination daring Entre futur visionnaire et diffusion sensoriali in piena CON-FUSIONE; to invoke creative duels, disturbing des savoir-faire, il affi che son goût trasparenze cristalline in costante and inciting the designer to pour un dialogue ininterrompu EVOLUZIONE; lini d’inverno tattili innovate and transmit. où s’entrechoquent imaginaires, e sorprendenti come fonte 5195 C 19-3410 TC 445 C 19-4906 TC Cool Gray 5 C 15-4101 TC émotions et réalités. Une combinai- d’ispirazione per le vostre collezioni So emerges a new energy. son qui ose mettre en place Autunno-Inverno 2012-13! Textures in MUTATION between des duels créatifs et bouscule light and shadow or fl irting with le designer pour l’inciter à innover Pantone®, Pantone Textile Colour System® PUBLISHING DIRECTOR WITH LINEN DIRECTIONS TEAM and Pantone formula guide coated/ CELC MASTERS OF LINEN TRENDS: ELEMENTI MODA 3D effects; sensorial mixes in total et à transmettre. uncoated are trademarks of Pantone, Inc. Marie-Emmanuelle Belzung Ornella Bignami CON-FUSION; crystalline transpa- ©Pantone Inc., 1984-1992. LINEN DIRECTIONS COORDINATOR : rency in perpetual EVOLUTION. Emerge alors une énergie nouvelle. The Pantone reference numbers shown CELC MASTERS OF LINEN Daniele Aliverti herein represent the Pantone Colours most Surprising, tactile winter – Textures en MUTATION entre ombre Marie Demaegdt Daniel Henry pure inspirational sourcing for your et lumière ou effet 3D ; télescopages closely related to the colours displayed. Colour reproduction may not match Fall/Winter 2012/13 collections! sensoriels en pleine CON-FUSION ; TEXTS Pantone®-identifi ed textile and coated Catherine Dauriac transparences cristallines en colours standards. Refer to curent EVOLUTION perpétuelle ; des Pantone® publications for accurate colour DESIGN DIRECTION lins d’hiver tactiles et surprenants standards. Frédéric Rey comme sourcing d’inspiration PRINTING All rights reserved. Any reproduction even Utim, Imprim’Vert® pour vos collections Automne/Hiver partial, is strictly forbidden in all countries. 2012/13 ! AGENCY Villadalésia & Co Linen Directions Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13 MUTATION Linen Directions Essential Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13 Protection Compact 6

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Textured “Art-eology” Memory

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Contrast 14 Decorative

Interlaced

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Traces, interlacing and fi bers: — smooth/textured contrasts Empreintes, entrelacs de fi ls et — aspects froissés, lavés, sur Impronte, intrecci di fi li e di fi bre, — contrasti liscio/rilievo contemporary winter linens — crinkled, washed aspects for de fi bres, les lins d’hiver contempo- tissés-teints d’esprit japonais i lini d’inverno contemporanei — aspetti stropicciati, lavati su tinti metamorphose light and shade Japanese style yarn-dyes rains métamorphosent l’ombre trasformano l’ombra e la luce fi lo di stile giapponese into tactile, living material. et la lumière en matière tactile. Décoratifs in materia tattile. The emotional palette plays on Decorative La gamme, émotionnelle, joue — double-faces rebrodés et La gamma emotiva gioca una Decorativi a cold partition of colored shadows — embroidered and overdyed une partition froide d’ombres colori- surimprimés, effets graphiques proposta di ombre fredde, dai toni — double-face ricamati e sovra- blurring into the mists. double-faces, random graphic sées fondues dans le brouillard. et aléatoires sfumati nella nebbia. stampati, effetti grafi ci irregolari effects — jerseys double-face jacquard — double-face jacquard Essential — double-face Jacquard jerseys Essentiels — tissus et mailles tubulaires Essenziali — tessuti e maglie tubolari — compact, heavy fabrics with — woven or knit tubular Jacquard — tissus compacts, lourds, aux jacquard pour effets matelassés — tessuti compatti pesanti, jacquard per effetti matelassé classic textures in linen// for quilted effects textures classiques en mélanges — mélanges lin-laine, bouillis con armature classiche in mischie — mélange lino-lana, bolliti o PA blends — boiled or felted linen/wool Lin-Laine-PA. ou feutrés lino-lana-PA infeltriti — Jacquard jerseys with regular blends — jerseys jacquard réguliers, — jerseys jacquard regolari, textures, marled/solid double-faces double-face chiné/uni Des volumes amples, forcément double-face chiné/unito Volumi ampi, avvolgenti; — marled linens for shirting weights Full, enveloping volumes; — lins chinés poids chemise enveloppants ; des matières — lini mélange peso camiceria materie a memoria di forma, — eco-friendly & protective materials with a memory form — lins enduits éco & protecteurs à mémoire, pour incarner la — lini spalmati ecologici per interpretare la silhouette di coated linens a silhouette embodying archaic silhouette d’un néo-dandysme e protettivi un neo-dandismo arcaico. neo-dandyism. Texturés archaïque. Textured — textures “rough”, reliefs 3D Strutturati — rough textures, 3D relief in linen en lin chenille — armature “irregolari”, rilievi 3D chenille — contrastes lisses/reliéfés in ciniglia di lino

1 Dario Cogliati 10, 11 Pietre Sonore, Pinuccio Sciola 2 « Light-dark » by Daan-Amsterdam 12 Double face, created by Elementi Moda 3 Lanvin 13 Felted overprinted linen blend by Inseta 4 Eco-bonded linen weave+jersey 14 Cristiano Ravalli by Seidra + Eurofi niss 15 Kenzo 5, 6 Frédéric Rey 16, recto Arnaldo Pomodoro 447 C 19-4305 TC 534 C 19-3921 TC Warm Gray 7 C 17-1500 TC 5275 C 19-3926 TC 5195 C 19-3410 TC 7 Eco-coated linen Una battaglia: per i partigiani, 1971 by Larusmiani + Lacote bronze and steel (detail) 8 America © Arnaldo Pomodoro Studio 9 Levi van Veluw Veneer II 2009 17 Jil Sander www.levivanveluw.com

437 C 17-1410 TC 497 C 19-1619 TC Black 7 C 19-0506 TC 7497 C 18-0312 TC Linen Directions Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13 CON-FUSION Linen Directions Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13 Collision Ornamental Fancy

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Combinaison Confrontation Double

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Felted Shadows Gradated

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Collision of colors, ideas and — bonded jersey + woven Libre collision d’idées, de — contrecollage jersey+ Libero scontro di idee, colori — maglia doppia, maglia garzata materials for a con-fusion to be — double knits, knits brushed on couleurs et de matières pour une chaîne-et-trame e materiali per una con-fusione a rovescio taken literally: mixing and fusing the inside con-fusion à prendre au pied — mailles doubles, mailles da prendere alla lettera: mescolare, to create “the Unexpected”. de la lettre : mélanger, fusionner, grattées envers fondere, per creare “Linatteso”. Ombre A “croma-lin(en)” palette Shadows pour créer ‘Linattendu ‘ Una gamma “chroma-lino” — agugliati in alpaca o confronting warm tones with — needle-punched alpaca Une gamme « chroma-lin », Ombres confronto di toni caldi e di naturali su base di lino, effetto ombra cold naturals. or mohair on linen weaves for confrontation de tons chaleureux — aiguilletés Alpaga ou Mohair sur freddi. in dégradé a gradated, shaded effect et naturels froids base Lin, effet ombré en dégradé — maglie strutturate, righe dégradé Fancy — textured knits, gradated stripes — mailles texturées, rayures Fantasia in mischia di lino con fi lati pelosi — decorative gradated Jacquards alternating linen and hairy yarns Fantaisie dégradées en mélange Lin - — jacquards decorativi in dégradé — maglie lino-lana da infeltrire in linen/wool/ blends — linen/wool knits to be felted — jacquards ornementaux fi ls poilus lino-lana-seta — tessuti e maglie rigonfi ati, — heavy yarn-dyed , — blistered knits and weaves, en dégradé Lin-Laine-Soie — mailles Lin-Laine à feutrer — tele corpose tinto fi lo, tessuti tipo parzialmente infeltriti “Chanel” type weaves in yarn mixes partially felted — lourdes en fi l-teint, tissus — tissus et mailles cloqués, Chanel in mix di fi lati — multicolored stripes “Chanel” en mélanges de fi ls partiellement feutrés — righe multicolori La silhouette si afferma attraverso — marled effects The silhouette dominates — rayures multicolores — chinés un faccia-a-faccia di materie – in a disconcertingly elegant — chinés La silhouette s’impose dans di un’eleganza sconcertante – dove Double confrontation of materials, un face-à-face des matières – Doubles il doppio gioco è la regola. — colorful coatings, waterproof where playing the double-game Doubles d’une élégance déconcertante – — spalmati colorati e impermeabili coatings is the rule. — enductions colorées, enductions où le double-jeu est la règle. — tessuti accoppiati jersey+navetta imperméables

1 Photo par Éole, www.eole.me 8 Roberto La Forgia 2 Winter linen blend panama by Inseta 9 D&G 3, recto Erwin Wurm, House attack, 2006 10 Brushed , by Italtessil Photo: Mumok © VBK Wien, 2011/ 11 Missoni Erwin Wurm 12 © Massimo Listri, Corbis 4 Stuart Haygarth 13 Yohji Yamamoto 1815 C 19-1331 TC 173 C 18-1448 TC 7432 C 17-1818 TC 8321 C 18-6216 TC 445 C 19-4906 TC 5 Eco-bonded weave+jersey by Seidra + Eurofi niss 6 Olivier Gerval 7 Dreamstime.com

209 C 19-1557 TC 200 C 19-1764 TC 7475 C 18-4728 TC 1255 C 17-0843 TC Linen Directions Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13 EVOLUTION

evolution Linen Directions Transition Fall-Winter 2012-13 Pure Solid Abstract

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Crystalline 7 Fragile Cellular

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Kinetic Movement Optical

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Setting free the imagination — evanescent prints inspired Libérer l’imaginaire entre — imprimés évanescents inspirés Liberare la fantasia attraverso — stampe evanescenti ispirate between innovation and abstrac- by micro-cells innovation et abstraction, pour de micro-cellules innovazione e astrazione, da micro cellule tion for surface plays constantly — linen/Pa knits des jeux de surfaces toujours — maille dentelle Lin-Pa per giochi di superfi ci sempre — maglia pizzo lino-PA in movement. en mouvement. in movimento. A palette of pale tones and neutral Kinetic Une gamme de tons pâles et Cinétique Una gamma di toni tenui e Cinetico pastels lit up by a light glimmer — pleated effects in movement de pastels neutres, illuminés par — effets plissés en mouvement di pastelli neutri, illuminati da un — effetti plissé in movimento of winter sun. — gradated stripes and un de soleil d’hiver. — rayures dégradées et raggio di sole invernale. — righe degradé e geometrie con geometric optical effects géométriques à effets d’optique effetto ottico Solid Solidité Solidità — compact weaves in shiny or Between fl uidity and crystalline — tissus compacts, Lin-Soie, Superposition des transparences — tessuti compatti in lino-seta, Sovrapposizioni di trasparenze matte linen/silk, linen/wool hardness, a futurist silhouette Lin-Laine, brillants ou mats et géométries variables lino-lana, lucidi od opachi e geometrie mutevoli creano una is constructed from a play of construisent une silhouette silhouette futurista tra fl uidità Fragile layered transparency and variable Fragilité futuriste, entre fl uidité et dureté Fragilità e consistenza cristallina. — delicate cut yarns, plays of geometries. — délicats fi ls coupés, jeux de trans- cristalline. — delicati fi l coupé, giochi transparency & compact opacity parences & opacités compactes di trasparenze e opacità compatte. — burn-out weaves — dévorés — devorati

1 Gabriele Colangelo 10 Dreamstime.com 2 © Heide Benser/Corbis 11 Anna Sui 3 Rick Owens 12 Marc Jacobs 4 Bright linen blend, by Tessiture di Nosate 13 Fan jacquard by Anna Regos” for Pannonfl ax, 5 Isidoros Prinos coll. Art In Factory 6, 8 Frédéric Rey 14 Oda Pausma, « 29.10.2010 » 729 C 16-1235 TC 5285 C 17-3917 TC White 11-0104 TC 5803 C 14-6308 TC Cool Gray 5 C 15-4101 TC 7 Gianni Pettena, Ice House / Minneapolis, 15 3D linen by Michele Solbiati courtesy galerie Mercier&Associés 16 Multi-ply linen panama by Enrico Sironi 9 Foamy linen blend knit by Hungaro-Len + Safi lin + Cousy

5565 C 16-4408 TC 466 C 15-1215 TC 7499 C 11-0205 TC 7520 C 13-1405 TC