An Oasis in the Atlantic

AzoresText and photos by Nuno Sá

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It’s been almost 15 years since my first visit to the Azores. I was studying law then and was on my first diving trip, with all of eight dives written down in my brand new logbook. Six years later, I was living in the Azores. I had traveled and dived in many remote locations by then, Africa, Australia, Asia… but one place never left Friendly dusky grouper, Island; Diver with curios common octopus, ; Blacktail my mind—those nine small islands that comber, São Jorge Island. PREVIOUS PAGE: Wild dolphins corral and hunt prey in a bait ball stood alone in the middle of the Atlantic. So, I hung my law degree diploma at my And it came to pass. After five years of diving islands without discovering all of the secrets parent’s house in and left for the in these nine islands as a professional nature the Azorean seas have to reveal. photographer, I have seen the world’s largest Although whale and dolphin watching Azores with a single goal in mind: to live animal—the majestic blue whale—and dived are the main tourist attractions of these in and discover a place with one of the with orcas, pods of sperm whales, dolphins, nine islands, more and more divers are dis- highest levels of biodiversity in the world, turtles, sharks, devil rays, whale sharks and covering this group of islands by exploring and maybe even become an underwa- many other fascinating creaturs. But I am a myriad of dive sites where the visibility is ter photographer. sure I can spend the rest of my life on these startling and the presence of large pelagic

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fish unique. Located in the middle of the Atlantic organisms feed on the algae, they will soon serve phins, loggerhead turtles, devil rays, whale sharks Ocean, almost half way between the United States as nourishment to giant travelers crossing the and finally, large schools of fish. and Europe, the Azores are a small oasis in the mid- ocean. Blue whales, fin whales, Bryde´s whales, sei dle of a blue desert for many species that annu- whales and minke whales arrive, stopping in these Nine gems—one by one ally venture on Atlantic migrations. Located in the nutrient rich waters, gathering strength to complete The archipelago of the Azores is constituted of nine frontier of cold and nutrient rich currents coming their migration north to the cold Arctic waters. islands and spreads through 500km (311 miles). in from the north and a ramification of the warm Undoubtedly, these large baleen whales will meet These nine islands are the most isolated in the North waters of the Gulf Stream coming in from the south, pods of sperm whales—the Azores’ resident giant Atlantic, situated 1,300km (808 miles) from the the upwelling effect of the only landmass between of the seas, which hunts giant squid in the deep southwestern coast of mainland Portugal. Diving is these two continents creates an explosion of life waters surrounding the archipelago. possible on all of the islands of the archipelago and every year. When the first days of summer arrive, water gets range from shore dives to cave dives and wreck The beginning of this cycle starts with the spring clearer by the day as the food chain develops, the dives as well as diving in distant underwater moun- “bloom” as water starts to get warmer and filled microscopic plankton gives way to large bait balls, tains where dozens of manta rays and big schools with microscopic algae, giving it a greenish hue. and a multitude of predators follow. As the warm of fish are common sights. LEFT TO RIGHT: Free diver surrounded by Almaco jacks, With it come the biggest and smallest of the summer breezes arrive so do the more tropical Divided in three groups (Eastern, Central and , Ambrósio; Pod of Sperm whales. Photo ocean’s beings. As a frenzy of small zooplankton species, such as large pods of Atlantic spotted dol- Western), the islands can be very close to each obtained under a special permit of Azores environment authorities; Friendly Loggerhead turtle, Santa Maria Island

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other in a group (just four miles from connections to various chambers. what make the Azores a unique div- Pico to Faial in the central group), The typical sea life includes large ing destination. but up to over a hundred miles dusky groupers, curious trigger fishes, away from the next group. Each of several species of little nudibranchs, these islands is so different from the morays and octopi in amongst the Of the nine islands of the Azores, other that it is hard to describe them rocks. Colorful red hogfish are nor- Flores and Corvo are the most as a whole. What they do have mally more common at a greater distant and secluded, also being in common is peace and quiet, depth—20 meters or more—where the westernmost point of Europe. breathtaking volcanic landscapes the black coral (Antipathella wol- Only ten miles separate these two and cows everywhere—roads lastoni) branches are also quite islands, however, they are 130 miles included! common. Many small and colorful away from the nearest island group. Underwater, these islands are as species can be sighted, such as With less than 4,000 inhabitants— different as on the surface, with peacock wrasse, parrotfish, Azores and with blue sharks on one island and whale chromis (Chromis limbata) and 400—the so-called “Western Group” sharks on another, or a World War Mediterranean rainbow wrasse. still offers the closest we can get to II shipwreck on one island and Large schools of pelagic fish such nature in its purest state, with waters 15th and 16th century wrecks on as guelly jack, almaco jack, yellow- that are pristine, unpolluted and another. Coastal dives are, however mouth barracuda, Atlantic bonito almost untouched by humankind. rather similar throughout the archi- or—for the lucky few—a majestic But visiting these two islands is not pelago. Being islands of volcanic ori- devil ray, a turtle or an ocean sunfish just a unique experience underwa- gin, underwater rock formations can are occasionally sighted on coastal ter, as these islands have breath- be very impressive, with large arches dives, but the offshore underwater taking landscapes and are off the originated by ancient lava flows seamounts are definitely the place beaten track of the more touristic and deep caves with numerous to visit for the big pelagics and are islands. Flores, in Flores Island, liter- CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Group of devil rays at offshore underwater seamount; Cows on the road, peace and quiet. View of Faial Island from Pico, Central group; View of Corvo Island from Flores, Western group 27 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Azores

ally means flowers in Portuguese, and the meadows filled with flowers, as the outer fish, an abundance of red hogfish, blacktail island can best be described as “Hawaii in ridge of the crater falls steeply into the blue combers, various types of morays and so the Atlantic”. Beautiful waterfalls cut through sea. UNESCO has recently recognized the many other typical species of the Azores. On the green landscape and lagoons, and there uniqueness of this natural heritage nominat- the boat crossing from Flores to Corvo many are flowers everywhere. Corvo, on the other ing it a Biosphere Reserve. species of whales, dolphins, sea turtles and hand, is only one-eighth the size of Flores with The only village on the island is the small sea birds are usually sighted. a total area of 17 sq km, thus being the small- village of , a picturesque town Corvo’s highlight is undoubtedly the dive est in the archipelago. with white houses and cobblestone streets. with the big dusky groupers at the Caneiro Although small, Corvo Island offers its visi- Due to its geographical isolation from dos Meros dive site, located just 300m from tors, without a doubt, one of the world’s most islands with more developed fishing indus- the harbor. This is a natural reserve (amazingly unique and beautiful landscapes. The giant tries, the islands of Flores and Corvo still have it was voluntarily created by the island’s fish- crater of the extinct volcano that occupies a diverse and abundant marine life. Large ermen) where you can dive with up to eight almost the totality of the island is composed schools of yellowmouth barracuda can be or ten large and friendly dusky groupers. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Corvo Island’s crater—a Unesco natural heritage; of several small lagoons surrounded by green found here as well as almaco jack and jack Flores, on the other hand, also has many Sperm whale fluke; Atlantic spotted dolphins; The “Triangle Islands”, São Jorge Island with Pico and Faial in the horizon 28 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Azores

LEFT TO RIGHT: Diver explores Shrimp Cave, Faial Island; Rock goby (Gobius paganellus); Diver and red scorpion fish (Scorpaena scrofa)

diving spots on its extensive coast, Central Group nection by boat can be more historic buildings are reminis- one of the most famous ones is Five islands stand relatively close difficult. Graciosa has excellent cent of its historic importance Gruta do Galo—a dive in a mag- by in the central group of the coastal dives, cave dives and in the 15th and 16th centuries nificent cave that ends under a Azores. Amongst them Pico and a very good wreck dive—the as the main shelter harbor for artifacts and wrecks that evoke 19th century steamship that sunk freshwater waterfall in the sea. Faial are the most visited by div- Terceirense shipwreck—located ships crossing the Atlantic, with ancient times. just 50m from the coast when Most divers who visit the Azores ers and are only four miles apart. just a few hundred meters from many stories of pirate ships and One of the most interesting crossing from Portugal to Brazil, “Western Group” take advantage Together with São Jorge Island, the coast. also naval battles to be told. The his- dives is the “anchor graveyard” marks its presence in the bay—its of the proximity of the two islands they form the islands of the has excellent coastal dives but is toric importance of this city is pre- where you can dive amongst shadow visible from the surface to visit and dive on both of them. “Triangle” with daily boat con- mostly known for its archeological sent above and under the water, over 40 large anchors, which on days of calm sea. After all, it is just a one-and-a-half- nections between them. dives. with several archeological diving range from the 16th to the 20th Faial Island is well known as hour boat ride between the two The islands of Terceira and Terceira’s capital, Angra do sites. Although time has taken its century, left by ships in distress, one of the world’s most famous islands. Graciosa are relatively isolated Heroísmo, is a UNESCO world heri- toll over most of the fragile woo- some of them over three meters marinas, where sailors crossing from the rest of the group, so con- tage site. Monuments and colorful den ships, there are still many long. The lidador shipwreck, a the Atlantic usually stop for a few

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Terceira Island’s Anchor Graveyard has over 40 anchors, some over 3m long, from the 16th-20th centuries left by ships in distress

days, giving the small town of a from the sea floor from over 500m These two islands are also one of the mystical look, with colorful sails filling its deep up to around 35 meters. few places in the world where you can bay. Just across the strait channel, Pico Offshore dives in high seas are com- dive with one of the seas most beauti- Island seems to still be erupting from pletely unpredictable, but big groups ful predators—the blue shark. Diving the sea floor into a volcanic mountain of curios devil rays and big schools with blue sharks is done “in the blue”, over 2,000m high. of up to thousands of large pelagic either snorkelling or scuba diving, and Both of these islands are the main fish, such as yellowmouth barracudas, is definitely an unforgettable experi- access points to two of the Azores’ jacks, and especially Atlantic boni- ence. Just minutes after a container most famous diving experiences: the tos, are among the main attractions. with bait hits the pristine water, subtle Princesa Alice offshore seamount and Several species of sharks, ocean sunfish shadows can be seen shooting from diving with blue sharks in high seas. or manta rays can also be sighted. Of hundreds of meters deep, straight to Diving in offshore seamounts are course, being the Azores home to over the surface. Cautious and elusive at amongst the best dives these islands 20 different species of whales and dol- first, as confidence is gained, these have to offer, and the Princesa Alice phins, the trip to Princes Alice always predators of the deep are extremely dive site is definitely second to none. includes some ocean travellers such curious, approaching and inspecting Located about 45 miles off Faial island dolphins, sperm whales or loggerhead every diver, sometimes even slightly (a three-hour trip) this seamount erupts turtles. brushing divers, receiving a tactile test Terceira Island lidador shipwreck—a 19th century steamship 30 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Curios grey triggerfish (Balistes capriscus), (left); Blue Shark (Prionace glauca], Pico Azores travel and Faial Islands (below)

are about 50 miles from each other and over 70 miles from the cen- tral group. The largest island—São Miguel—is the capital of the Azores, and is known for its natural beauties, with amazing landscapes marked by green mountains and blue lagoons. It is, however, also the most developed island. Coastal dives can be less thrill- ing due to a larger fishing industry. However, the presence of a World War II shipwreck just five minutes from the marina makes this the most visited diving spot in the Azores. Built in the United States in 1943, the Liberty Ship took part in the world’s

from its sensitive lateral line. On a normal dive you can have between three to five blue sharks around you. If you are lucky, you can also see the open ocean’s top predator and fast- est fish—the mako shark. Pico is also the birthplace of what has become the tourist symbol of the Azores—whale watching. The Azores is one of the world’s top whale watch- ing destinations, with the chance to spot 23 different species, and with large pods of sperm whales all year long. Along the mountainous coast of Pico and Faial islands several small looking points are daily occupied by “Vigias” (look outs), armed with binoc- ulars and a radio tracking the horizon for whales and dolphins, and giving directions to the fast zodiacs. On a typical summer day it is nor- mal to sight up to four or five different species of whales and dolphins as well as several species of sea birds, turtles and who knows what else. Swimming with dolphins in high seas is an unfor- dive—Ponta dos Rosais. This is an largest military operation—operation gettable experience. Swimming with excellent dive with many schools of Overlord off the coast of Normandy. whales, however, is not allowed. pelagic fish, however the typical sea- Originally called Edwin L Drake, it São Jorge Island—the third island mount groups of devil rays are rarely would find its resting place 21 years of the “Triangle”—is less known for its seen here. later off the coast of São Miguel with diving than for its breathtaking land- the name, Dori. Today, this 130-meter- scape and offers excellent coastal Eastern Group long wreck is visited by hundreds of dives as well as a well-known offshore The two Islands of the eastern group divers every year. Located on a sandy Peacock wrasse, Islets (offshore dive 25 miles from Santa Maria Island) 31 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Azores

Vineyards descend into the sea on Santa Maria Island (left); Portugal’s high- est mountain, Pico Island (above)

bottom just 16m deep, this is probably the occasional whale shark. Around 25 miles south from Santa the best and easiest accessible wreck Up to three years ago, whale sharks Maria (or about 45 miles north of São dive in the Azores, with many parts of were a very rare sight and mostly Miguel) are two of the Azores most the ship still intact and the typical spe- described by tuna fisherman after known offshore dives—Formigas and cies of the Azores sea bottom present encounters in high seas. However, since . Formigas has a series of in great numbers. 2008, the biggest fish of seas has cho- small rocky islets in the middle of the Santa Maria is probably the Azores sen the island of Santa Maria to spend ocean, where a small, uninhabited “best kept secret”—a small island with the summer. Nonetheless, spotting this lighthouse was constructed to pre- varp / wikipedia / public domain white sandy beaches and completely colossus of the seas is not for the faint vent ships from colliding (unfortunately off the beaten track, with whale sharks of heart, as they usually appear about there where many before it was built). Location of the Azores and groups of dozens of devil rays just six miles from the coast, so it typically Dollabarat is an underwater seamount archipelago on glo- 30 minutes from the harbor! Although involves taking a whole day specifically just three miles from Formigas, so mak- bal map (left); Map big groups of devil rays are typically to search for them and being prepared ing the trip usually involves diving both of island groups in the seen on offshore seamounts, Santa for many hours out at sea. But when sights. What both dives have in com- Azores archipelago (above) Maria is the only island of the Azores you do get lucky, the experience is mon is amazing visibility (up to 40m where you can see dozens of these priceless: pristine blue waters several and more) and a chance to see oce- majestic fish slowly gliding around div- hundred meters deep, shades of sun- anic pelagic fish such as big schools ers, on a daily basis and just three miles light descending beneath you, and a of wahoos, yellowmouth barracudas, from the coast. This happens in a place massive whale shark followed by hun- jacks, and Atlantic bonitos, as well as called Ambrósio, and you can literally dreds or thousands of tunas hitching a curious devil rays, hammerhead sharks see over 50 devil rays on a single dive, ride through the Atlantic—simply amaz- and the occasional manta ray or as well as large schools of pelagics and ing. whale shark.

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Free diver surrounded by devil rays at the amazing dive site, Ambrósio, off Santa Maria Island (above); Black coral, Terceira Island (left)

of peace and quiet. With reasonable small and hugely influenced by the mass connections. However, moving between coastal dives and the chance to have of water around them. any other islands can sometimes be very some unique experiences in offshore time consuming and well worth the flight. dives, the Azores has dives for every taste Getting there and around: There are air- However, if you don’t mind taking a day and level of experience. However, think- ports and daily connections between all off for the trip, it can be very nice (and ing you can visit all of the Azores’ “high- the islands, as well as regular boat con- cheaper) to take a trip along the islands. lights” in just one trip is simply an illusion. nections during the summer. TAP and Other than that, just relax and get into The distance between islands makes SATA have direct flights to the Azores the Azores’ easygoing ambiance. After some of the more isolated ones a desti- from and several other European your first visit, I’m sure you will feel you nation of their own. However, it is possible capitals as well as Boston, Oakland, have discovered a small paradise in the to dive two or three islands in a one to Montreal and Toronto. Atlantic. two week trip and still have time for some There are two official boat opera- whale watching and sightseeing. tors in the Azores as well as plenty of Nuno Sá is a Portuguese underwater Between dozens of devil rays at enough to live these experiences like to When to go: July to September are the private taxi services. Transmaçor (www. photographer and author who resides Ambrósio, going out for the whale sharks, keep this island a secret. months with the warmest water, best transmacor.pt) only operates in the cen- in the Azores. A regular conttibutor for taking a trip to Formigas and Dollabarat weather, best visibility and best chances tral group, while Atlanticoline (www. several magazines, including National (including a few species of whales, dol- Visiting the Azores to sight pelagic species. Water can get atlanticoline.pt) connects all the Islands. Geographic, Sá is co-author of The phins and sea turtles that will probably These nine islands definitely offer some as cold as 16-17Cº in the winter, and an Boat connections work very well in the Azores Diving Guide—Portugal’s first pub- be seen on the way there), and a few world-class dives and a unique experi- easy 25Cº in the summer. Air temperature Western Group (Flores and Corvo) and lished diving guide. For more information, sunsets at Praia Formosa beach, it is no ence of diving in a less touristic destina- is not surprisingly pretty much the same also between the Triangle Islands (Faial, visit: www.photonunosa.com ■ surprise that the divers that are lucky tion with amazing landscapes and a lot as the water, since these islands are very Pico and São Jorge) with several daily

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