Narragansett Chapter Beginner Rock Course

Welcome

Welcome to the AMC’s Narragansett Chapter Climbing Committee’s Beginner course. The AMC has had a very active climbing community dating back to the 1930’s as documented in a 1935 Appalachia article entitled Rhode Island, the Rock Climbers' Paradise. Some may argue about the “climber’s paradise” but there is a large number of climbers in this little state. There are 175 climbers who subscribe to the ClimbRI email group (www.climbri.com). The rock climbing classes have been offered every year for over 25 years turning out hundreds of climbers.

Who We Are

Everyone involved in teaching these classes is an unpaid volunteer attempting to give back to the larger climbing community. Without them we could not offer these classes. All of the instructors have gone through these classes at some time and have many years of experience. Many recent graduates of the course return to help out as assistant instructors.

Course Costs

AMC Member $60, Non-member $100. Student Discount--AMC Member $40, Non- Member $80.

(NOTE: It is a better deal if you join the AMC. An individual AMC Membership is $50, a family membership is $75, and under 30 membership cost $25. There are many savings that an AMC membership gives you: 20% off at EMS two times a year and discounts on lodging at AMC facilities and activities, priority if we have to limit participants on a trip, etc. The $50 membership with the $60 class fee equals $110; only ten bucks more than if you take the classes as a non-member so essentially you are getting AMC membership for ten bucks. If you have a couple of family members it is even a better deal and you are getting AMC membership for less than the class cost a non-member. For AMC membership information go to the Narragansett Chapter web site. (http://www.amcnarragansett.org/our_chapter/join/join_amc.shtml ) We do not make a profit on these courses. Most of the money goes toward buying equipment such as the new ropes we buy every year.

Please send in a check for the class fee so we don't have to take time to bother with finances at the first class. You should send them made out to: Joe Vaglio, 2 Fink Road, Milbury, MA 01527.

Feedback

We hope you enjoy the classes. If you have any suggestions or comments to improve the instruction please let us know.

Course Overview The goal of the Beginner course is to give students a foundation in climbing that can be used to go on to independently top-rope outside and to continue on to multi- traditional or . Rock climbing involves certain inherent risks. These are minimized where possible, but climbing requires vigilance from all class participants. Each participant is responsible for his/her own safety and for the safety of those around them. Understand the risks involved. Course participants are required to sign an AMC waiver acknowledging these risks. Course participants are required to wear a helmet. Listen to what your instructors say. If you are confused or not sure of something, speak up! Check the gear and the knots of your climbing partner, and make sure she or he checks yours. Never approach the edge of a cliff unless you are tied in.

Class Times Classes run from 8:30AM until about 4:00 PM. We LEAVE the car pool locations at 8:00 AM sharp so arrive in plenty of time to check in and arrange car-pooling and gear. Car pool locations are located at: http://www.climbri.com/AMC/DirectionsClasses.htm

Weather We teach rain or shine. We expect you to show up for the day you signed up for. In some cases of torrential downpour we may ask students if they want to switch to the next day (Sunday) and if we get a consensus we may switch.

Course Material There are course hand-outs located on the web at: http://www.climbri.com/AMC/Instruction/AMC-Class-Handouts.htm Please study these materials online or print them out yourselves. Get a small length of rope and practice the knots until they are wired in your brain.

AMC Gear Harnesses, helmets, ropes, and belay devices will be provided for use. We have some used rock shoes in various sizes that you can try if they fit. If you have your own climbing equipment then please bring it. Or you can rent rock shoes at Rock Spot Climbing gym in Lincoln or Peace Dale.

Personal Gear It is early spring, so the weather can change dramatically. Dress appropriately for the conditions. Everyone should bring a rain jacket, rain or wind pants, hat, gloves, a couple quarts of water, lunch, and snacks, all contained in a small pack.

Course Specifics and Locations

1st class Ross Pond, CT-- Basics (see additional info below: Instructors explains equipment what it is used for. Example, Kernmantle rope, types of belay devices, harnesses, etc. Instruction is geared to experience level of instructor’s group. Instructors go through basic knots starting with tie-in. Students tie knots. Instructors go through proper technique using the AMGA approved hands-down method. Knots (Figure–Eight and Eight-on-a-Bight, Fisherman’s (Back-up for Tie–in), Water (tape) Knot), show equalized top-rope , belaying, climbing. Use of climbing commands (belay on, belay off, take, slack, lower). Show how to set-up equalized top-rope anchor.

2nd class – Ross Pond, CT -- Top-Rope Set: Students set up top-rope anchor (with instructor checking), various climbing techniques (cracks - parking lot wall, roofs – party wall, face – left of party wall, etc.) Rappelling with autoblock

General Information

Knots (See course hand-out) Both belayer and climbers need to know how to tie some basic types of knots/hitches for safety to start with. These three knots will not slip or untie if tied properly, holding a climber during a fall. Rethreaded Figure–Eight Figure–Eight on a Bight Fisherman’s (for tie-in backup) (AKA tape knot) Overhand (AKA Euro Death knot to tie two ropes together to rappel) Autoblock No…Butterfly knots, bowlines, etc. No “tucked-back” Figure of Eight for tie-in as it is difficult to tell if the Figure Eight is tied correctly.

Belaying (See course hand-out) Most important thing to learn! Belaying is a rope handling skill to ensure safety as a climber ascends the rock. The rope, which is attached to the climber with a knot and threaded through the anchor point may be taken in or payed out through the attached to the belayer depending on the progress of the climber. Belayer must attach in to anchor system with a locking biner and stand at length of anchor…so there is no slack in anchor. Stance needs to be wide and steady. Belayer must use dominant hand as brake hand….never letting go of the brake. Hand switches need to be completed below the belay device, so that the braking position is maintained. We teach AMGA hands down method. With any new belayer have a back-up belayer. This person stands behind the belayer taking in the rope, stacking it and always maintaining a hand on the brake behind the belay device.

Equipment Needed for Safe Belaying

Harnesses Type of harness: to choose depends on type of climbing that you plan on doing most often i.e., Alpine or , Competition …but they are all basically the same sit harness used for adults and full body harnesses for children under 50 lbs. Proper fit – snug around waist/and leg loops, but not too snug to restrict movements. Buckling up and tying in: a climber risk death if buckles are not secured properly using the manufacturers recommended instructions. ALWAYS double back all webbing straps through your harness buckles. At least 2 inches should be left over after doubling back leg loops and waist buckle. (Some harnesses are doubled back by design.) Discuss briefly about harness care – (inspect harness before you climb observing for frayed stitching or other cuts. Stressing that harnesses wear out with repeated usage. If you climb every weekend, your harness should last only a couple of years. Avoid direct sunlight for storage. Avoid harsh chemicals like bleach, gasoline, battery acid etc. Show proper Belay Loop – discuss how other loops on the harness can fail i.e. Gear loops – which can fail under minimal weight.

Belay devices Show devices … The friction device which helps a belayer hold the climber from falling and ensure a safe and controlled ascent and lowering of the climber. It may also be used for rappelling depending on device. Many types of belay devices available in the marketplace: Tube type, Gri-Gri, Reverso each has pro’s and cons specific for that device and the type of climbing it’s used for. Positioning: Determine if person to brake with left or right hand…should be dominant hand. Stance is on correct side of anchor. Orientation of Locking Biner in Harness: Ensure that device is clipped into a locking carabineer vs. a non locker. Talk about cross loading biners.

Anchoring Belayer What to look for while choosing an anchor site? Natural protection or artificial protection? Examples of Natural Protection, Trees – Rocks –Horns, Natural Protection is preferred…stronger/ faster usually more accessible. Direction of Pull; Need for anchor area to be inline with anchor and route yet out of climber’s fall zone and falling rock zone. Positioning: Footing should be level so that stance can be wide and steady Reasons for belaying off an anchor (direct) as opposed to off your harness (indirect). Recommended for beginners. Weight difference Fall transferred to anchor not climber. Ability to escape Belay and get help if needed. Anchor must be bombproof!

Ropes Kernmantle – Specially designed and weight tested for climbing use and breaking strengths by UIAA (multiple strands wrapped around a core) Construction of the core determines type of rope either Dynamic or Static. Two types - teach difference between dynamic vs. static rope. Dynamic is used for climbing. This type rope absorbs some of the energy created by a fall or a load. Static ropes are generally used for anchor set-up and hauling on big walls. Butterfly Coil – Show how to coil rope.

Climber’s Checklist  Have all Harnesses and Helmets and Shoes are properly buckled –double backed and fitting properly.  Check that hair is tied up, jewelry removed e.g. rings and clothing tucked in.  Tie proper figure-eight knot (making sure that knots have a 4”tail ) knots need to be neatly dressed with back-up knots fitting snuggly to top of figure-eight knot.  Check that knots are tied through appropriate loops on Harness.  Double check that buckles are doubled back.  Belay carabineer is LOCKED. Belay device is attached correctly to harness belay loop.  System is closed by either the belayer being tied in or a knot in the end of the rope.

Climbing Commands On belay…belay on….off belay…belay off…climbing…climb on…take…slack…lower… Say each others name when using commands. Helps reduce miscommunications. Speak clearly and wait for response. Climber begins this conversation. Belayer always has the last word. Yell “ROCK” really loudly if you should dislodge a rock. People at bottom get close to cliff to avoid rock and don’t look up.

Technique: - Strength (especially core) equals good balance equals good climber. - Attitude: is half mental. - Use your eyes: to look for foot placements, Scope out your upcoming route to be climbed. Helps you plan ahead – route finding. Being able to read the route prior or ascending - Body Position: hold the body with the weight over the feet (critical). This will help keep your center of gravity above your feet, so that your feet can press firmly onto foot holds. Constantly changing your body position to best find and use the foot and hand holds. So that they are placed firmly allowing you to always maintain three points of contact with the rock. Arms are used for balance. Try not to overextend your arms or your body. This inhibits movement. Try to hold handholds with straight arm at shoulder length. So that you are hanging on bone not muscle. Move up using your leg muscles. - Balance: in climbing it is the continual shifting of body position to allow progress to be made in the most efficient manner. Balancing may be on one foot or two. Allow arms to rest. Weight and center of gravity feels distributed evenly over feet.

Types of Climbing

Bouldering- climbing with out a rope near the ground on boulders or at the base of a cliff. Helps build strength and footwork. Free Soloing: You are climbing alone without gear (and are nuts). Soloing: You are climbing alone with gear. Top Roping: a climbing rope runs through an anchor at the top of the cliff, to the climber. Cliffs must be less than half the rope length or belay from top. – Big wall climbing- used when you commit your body weight direct to an anchor in order to rest or ascend. - you ascend without use of direct aid. Two types: Trad (traditional) climbing – place and remove your own protection. Sport climbing – clip pre-placed bolts.

North American Climb Ratings Yosemite Decimal System – rated for their degree of commitment and technical difficulty. Class 1 = walking Class 2 = Scrambling using hands Class 3 = Climbing using hands Class 4 = Difficult or exposed enough to rope up and belay. Class 5 = Difficult enough to require protection between belays. This is where technical rock climbing comes in. 5.0 – 5.15 based on Yosemite Decimal System. Climbs 5.10 and above may get additional letter rating a-d (e.g. 5.10b). Commitment Level I = A couple of Hours II = Half a day III = Most of a day IV = A long day, perhaps more. V = More than one day. VI = More than two days – Serious climb!

Types of Climbs

Slab Climbs – friction climbing- using smearing –demo - One may use the inner and outer edges of the shoe. (edging), requires balance. May also smear on face climbs. Show types of hand holds – pinches/jugs/ crimps/side pulls/palming/under-clings. - Requires balance –good technique. May want to tape hands if it is a long multi-pitch crack system with abrasive rock. Requires jamming- can jam your hands/ toes / feet / fingers/body/ arm or elbow knee into the crack . Depends on the width and type of the crack determines for which techniques you use. Finger cracks – accepts tips usually insert as much as you can, up to the first knuckle, without risking injury to get best purchase. Off hand Cracks - These cracks are too big for the fingers yet two small to get the whole hand into. Usually uncomfortable. Hand Cracks – (Demo) how the whole hand can fit in the crack. By placing thumb down and tucked into the palm of hand. Improving your holding power. Fist Cracks – (Demo) make a fist with thumb tucked across palm. Can torque fist for better jamming. Off Width Cracks – are greater than the fist width but two narrow to fit your whole body in. Chimneys - A crack wide enough to fit your entire body in.

Holds and Technique

Barn Door - The tendency of the body to swing outward away from the wall on steep terrain when the center of gravity is not centered between points of contact. Bump -To use an intermediate handhold to transition to a higher hold without shifting body position. Campus - To climb using only the arms. A method of training grip, contact and upper body strength. Crimp - A grip in which the 1st knuckle is extended allowing the fingertips to rest on a small ledge while the second knuckle is flexed. Cross-Over - Bring one arm across the other as you reach for a new hold. Dyno - A dynamic movement to reach a distant hold where momentum is required to propel the body. Lock Off - Grip a single hand hold with enough strength to allow the other hand to transition to a new hand hold. Lay Back - To support the body by creating opposition between pulling arms and pushing feet. Mantle - A hand-foot match in which the body rocks on to a ledge similar to the motion you would use to get out of a swimming pool. Match - Bring both hands/feet to the same hand/foot hold. Side Pull - A hold that is oriented to the side of the body and cannot be pulled in a downward direction. Under-cling - A hold which is oriented in a downward direction. Opposition can be created by pulling upward and maintaining body tension through the feet. Flag - An extended leg that counterbalances the body and prevents the center of mass from “barn-dooring.” Hand-Foot Match - To place a foot on the same hold as a hand. Heel Hook - Rest the heel on a hold thereby taking some weight off of the arms, usually employed on steep or overhanging terrain. Knee Bar - A resting position achieved by camming the top of the knee and a foot between two holds. Smear - Placing the foot directly on the rock where there are no obvious holds and gaining purchase solely from the friction between the shoe and rock. Swap Feet - To exchange feet on the same hold. Stem - To support the body using opposition created by pressing the hands and or feet outward in opposite directions.

Recommended Books : The Freedom of the Hills. catalog (free at climbing shops). Yankee Rock and Ice: A History of Climbing in the Northeastern United States by Laura Waterman, Guy Waterman and S. Peter Lewis.

Where Do you Go from Here?

Students are invited to go on to the Intermediate class which is held the three weekends following the Beginner Course. The goal of the Intermediate course is to produce "seconds" who can safely belay and follow an experienced leader on a traditional-style multi-pitch climb.

Minimum that all Beginner students must know to go on to Intermediate Course: How to SAFELY belay How to communicate: climber/belayer commands and pre-climb checklist How to tie basic knots: a retied figure-8 (harness tie-in knot) and a figure-8-on-a- bight How to rappel using an auto-block How to set up a top-rope anchor using fixed anchors (trees, bolts, rocks)

Weekend Climbing

Just about every weekend during the climbing season climbers meet locally to climb. These are not AMC sponsored events but ad hoc meetings organized through the ClimbRI email group. (www.climbri.com).

AMC Trips

Graduates of the Intermediate class are invited to go on AMC rock climbing trips that are held every month June through October.