PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

!H" 2017 Plus Awards RECOGNIZING OUTSTANDING

ACHIEVEMENT IN DESIGN AND RETAIL.

march 2018 • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

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and we have a global leadership team that will never compromise the brand,” Kahan says, adding, “We think in terms of a 240-year-old company, which is far different from weekly sell-throughs.” Another key factor driving Birkenstock’s success is its sneaker business model approach, according to Kahan. Just as Nike and have elevated the fashion cred of to haute heights, Birkenstock has been following a similar product- and brand-building strategy. “We’re mixing in limited-edition launches that create consumer urgency to purchase, insuring a demand that culminates in a regular-price sale,” he says. “Either you buy it now or it won’t be available in 60 days. This is the energy that, by and large, has been missing in the comfort business.” Kahan adds that the model creates a greater follow- BRAND OF THE YEAR; ing among younger consumers who are familiar with this approach. “Athletic SANDALS brands focus far more product differentiation, innovation and continually exciting the consumer,” he says. “The 18-year-old who goes into a Foot Locker expects to be entertained every 30 days with new concepts and products.” BIRKENSTOCK Indeed, Birkenstock has helped put the cool in comfort with its growing catalog of stylish collabs. It includes limited-edition collections with influ- THE BEAT WENT on for Birkenstock in 2017, marking the brand’s fifth ential retailers such as Concepts, Corso Como, Colette, Barney’s and Kirna straight year of explosive growth. It’s impressive for any brand, and especially Zabéte. The have blown out of the stores, buoyed Birkenstock’s image one long criticized for failing to capitalize on the many times it cycled back into and raised the bar on what a comfort brand can be, which is a far cry from fashion. No longer, as David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, reports the stuffy, staid stereotype. “Most of the broad comfort brands, quite frankly, the brand met all its targets financially and operationally, “far exceeded” are transactional shoes,” Kahan says. “Sure, they are comfortable, but there’s expectations on the new initiatives introduced last year and is positioned for no emotional relevance from the brand to the consumer. We’re one of the few continued growth in 2018 and beyond. brands that is generating consumer demand through a distinct positioning “This past year was the first season our closed-toe shoes and boots sold out in that they understand, and that is good for our retail partners.” every key retailer by the holiday season, our EVA sport sandals sold out almost The brand is also pushing forward on new product innovations across the 100 percent, our success in youth-oriented retail doors showed tremendous line to stay ahead and relevant. “We’re making Birkenstock a 365-day retail stickiness with a demographic that can be volatile, and the consumer buzz presence and, within two to three years, 25 percent of our business will be in generated by our higher brand visibility was exceptional,” Kahan says. All shoes. That’s a guarantee. And it will be purely incremental to our sandals that, plus its much-publicized push back against Amazon’s merchandising business,” Kahan says. He cites last year’s debut of its first shop-in-shop in and pricing policies (the brand ceased selling direct on the site at the start of Dillard’s as a key step going forward in this brand extension effort. “Dillard’s last year) and the celebrated debut of the Birkenstock Box, a mobile pop-up is the first to create a dedicated area with our fixturing to highlight the brand,” trailer that’s customized by each retailer, added to the brand’s snowballing he says. “The initial door saw explosive growth and far exceeded their pen- momentum. “This started five years ago as a nice trend, but anyone can etration level within the chain, so we’ll be executing more dedicated areas in experience that,” he adds. “Very few brands have been able to take the trend Dillard’s doors this spring.” and turn it into a true brand revolution.” Kahan says none of Birkenstock’s success would have been possible What’s more, Birkenstock has achieved success in a difficult retail land- without its talented team. Over the past 18 months, the division has added scape that, outside of a few sneaker brands, has stagnated sales overall. veterans Peter Moore as CFO, who joined from Warnaco; Jacqueline Kahan chalks part of that up to being one of the few brands—in any consumer Van Dine, a longtime product category—willing to embrace its DNA. Birkenstock has continued to do what executive from Deckers Brands it does best: be Birkenstock. “We’re not trying to reinvent who we are. We’re and Keen; Sandra Colon as proud of what Birkenstock represents and we’re doubling down on what makes of sales and most recently with us unique,” he says. That starts with the brand’s hallmark contoured footbed ; Marketing Director Scott and unique last shape. “Comfort is the DNA in all we do,” he says. “We won’t Radcliffe; and promoted Stephanie change based on the winds of fashion. We have no need to pivot. Consumers Militello to manage department are embracing brands that are real. In a world of fake news, it’s the few real store strategic accounts. Dedicated things that people can trust and gravitate towards.” design positions based in the U.S. Kahan believes consumers, faced with an abundance of choice, are seeking have also been added. “We have the brands that they love. Price isn’t the only determining factor. Authenticity, team in place to manage our brand quality and exclusivity are key attributes for a growing number of consumers across all functions for continued who want to purchase something genuine rather than just more stuff. “Are you growth and retailer support,” Kahan more satisfied when you buy something you like or would you rather spend says, acknowledging Birkenstock a little more but get something you love?” Kahan asks. He uses the analogy Co-CEOs Oliver Reichert and of luxury handbags: A woman who covets a Chanel bag won’t get the same Markus Bensberg for providing satisfaction from purchasing a lesser-name bag. Same goes for shoes: “If guidance and support in helping she wants the Gucci slide, there may be dozens of -alike silhouettes, but build a “world-class” team. Kahan there’s only one Gucci bit slide,” he says. Similarly, Kahan believes the truer believes the best is yet to come Birkenstock stays to a high level of brand discipline in terms of positioning and from this team. “Last year set the product, the more consumers will value the brand and the more demand will foundation for what will be con- The Birkenstock Box x Barneys, a version grow that isn’t as dependent on overall market conditions. “We’re managing tinued growth in the years ahead,” of its mobile pop-up concept making customized stops around the world. the brand with a degree of distribution discipline that was never done before, he says. —Greg Dutter

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

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NATIONAL CHAIN SHOE CARNIVAL

CLIFF SIFFORD, PRESIDENT and CEO of Shoe Carnival, a 400 or so While not necessarily a new tactic, Sifford believes the add-on sales effort store chain based in Evansville, IN, says it’s a good time of late to be a fam- is particularly of interest to Millennials as is Shoe Carnival’s overall vibe. “The ily shoe format—particularly one not heavily based in malls. As those white Millennial consumer is always looking for an experience, and we give them elephants continue to bleed traffic amid department store closings that are that,” he says. “Our music is upbeat, we run targeted promotions while they’re dragging down many interior-based formats with them, consumers increas- in the store and we have pop-a-shot hoops in all of our stores to ingly have been shopping elsewhere. take a break from shopping or entertain kids. It’s an experience; there aren’t “The guys that operate off the mall, which is primarily the family many shoe stores like ours.” Nor are competitors of similar size. Shoe Carnival channel, all enjoyed a better year, especially back-to-school compared to the stores average about 11,000 square feet, while the nearest competitor averag- competition in malls,” Sifford says. “The family shoe store is the channel of es around 6,000 square feet. “That extra square footage allows us to include choice today, whether that’s us, Famous Footwear, Rack Room, DSW…We’ve Nike shop-in-shops in many of our stores, workwear shops in blue collar loca- all done well of late.” tions and accessory shops,” Sifford says. In the case of Shoe Carnival, which has a mere 22 mall-based outlets, the Despite significant retail headwinds, Sifford remains bullish on Shoe chain’s business picked up as 2017 wore on. The first Carnival’s prospects, not to mention brick-and-mortar half of the year was flat on comps—the new up amid retailing in general, going forward. It starts with simple the retail upheaval—and the chain followed that with math as only 8 to 10 percent of footwear purchases are solid growth in its all-important back-to-school third currently made online. “Even if total ecommerce sales quarter. Net sales increased 4.7 percent and compa- spiked to a 20-percent share, which would be explosive rable store sales were up a healthy 4.4 percent in that growth, that still leaves 80 percent of the business in tra- period. Sifford credits much of the success to the buy- ditional stores,” he says, adding, “I don’t believe online ing team’s ability to identify key categories and items sales have affected brick-and-mortar shoe stores as it and then owning them. “Our customers already recog- has apparel, electronics and commodity items. Shoes nize us as a place for value, so when you have the best have to fit and feel good, because it they don’t it just categories and items of the season in-depth, they’re not ruins the rest of your day. Our customers like to try on going to be disappointed when they come into one of the shoes and make a purchase in a store.” our stores,” he says. As for key categories, athletic was That said, Sifford still cites Amazon as Shoe Carnival’s tops and running silhouettes set the pace. “Back-to- No. 1 competitor. “They sell just about everything we school was driven by athletic, and Nike, Adidas and do and their bots can determine the best price in the Puma were the key brands that our buyers zeroed in market. They aren’t going to be undersold.” It means, on,” Sifford says. for starters, Shoe Carnival can’t rest on any laurels. Another key aspect to Shoe Carnival’s success last year Cli! Si!ord, president Sifford says the chain must meet consumers’ chang- wasn’t necessarily about being the lowest priced. “We and CEO, Shoe Carnival ing shopping habits and desires. “We have to offer the look at value as mostly convenience,” Sifford says. “We customer a faster, seamless, easier shopping experi- know that when the customer comes into one of our stores, she doesn’t have ence,” he says. “We have to, for example, find ways to effectively reach cus- a lot of time.” (Picture a working Millennial mom with kids in tow looking to tomers through their mobile devices.” shop fast for the family.) “She just wants to get her shoe shopping done,” he Such efforts are part of Shoe Carnival’s “holistic approach” to customer rela- says. “Value to her is finding exactly what she wants, getting the sale rung up tionships that it introduced this year that makes them the center of attention. and getting out, and I think we do a tremendous job at that.” The goal is that when a customer walks into a store, all shopping frictions have Such shopping efficiency and reliability, Sifford believes, stacks up against been eliminated, Sifford says. “She doesn’t get a hassle if she has to return shopping online. The return hassles alone are enough to make that more of something and happens to not have a receipt,” he adds. “No one is question- a chore than a pleasure. “You have to deal with the UPS store and you’ve got ing her because we’re able to look up her information and get that refund to to pick out new shoes, wait for those to be delivered and hope those fit okay,” her quickly and seamlessly. Little things like that are what you have to do as he says. “I believe customers like to come into a nice store, touch and try on you move into this new retail environment.” the shoes, and walk out with a purchase. And with Shoe Carnival, they like Sifford also believes fewer, better stores is a part of Shoe Carnival’s holistic, to do it with their family.” customer-centric approach. Over the past two years, the chain has opened 38 Another factor contributing to the success of Shoe Carnival last year stores and closed 35 underperforming ones, and the plan this year is to open involves the chain’s long-term effort to generate add-on sales. It’s helped by approximately three outlets and close between 30 and 35 stores. “We decid- the fact that most Shoe Carnival customers are buyers, not browsers, Sifford ed to take a year off and let this so-called Retail Apocalypse settle down,” he says. Employees, via headset, communicate directly to the corporate office says. “We don’t want to sign long-term leases if the co-tenants might go away.” and learn what specials they can run on the fly. “If an employee sees a cus- Besides, less has been more profitable. “As we move out of stores that aren’t tomer in the women’s department, they can run a promotion specific to that driving comps, it’s helped us transfer more business to our stores within the category to them to buy a second or third pair,” he says. “We’ve been doing market and eliminate that loss,” he says. “It’s also made those stores bigger that for 35 years.” destinations.” —G.D.

26 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

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SNEAKER BOUTIQUE CONCEPTS

WHILE MANY RETAILERS in 2017 downsized store counts, whittled down pop-ups, but nothing that’s been co-sponsored and curated this way,” he says. selections and played it safe to weather the storm, Concepts continued to do “To be able to partner with a brand of that magnitude is an exciting venture what it has done for more than 20 years: take chances, create memorable for us, and we hope to do more stores like this in the future.” moments and score a few firsts. The Cambridge, MA-based chain celebrated Concepts remains a believer in brick-and-mortar retailing, according to the successful one-year anniversary of its Dubai outpost in the Middle East, Point. It already does a healthy online business and there are plans to expand opened the first-of-its-kind Adidas x Concepts boutique in in the that channel, but the physical level represents the chain’s roots. “Our brick- summer, revealed news of its Shanghai store opening for this summer and, and-mortar stores define who we are and give us our character,” he says. “We’re as usual, delivered an array of exclusive col- destination shops, and we’re not turning our laborations throughout the year that legions back on that format by any means.” of voracious sneakerhead fans snapped up in Last year, that commitment involved seconds. What Retail Apocalypse? efforts to draw more customers into its stores Perhaps most reflective of Concepts’ dynamic beyond the weekend-based sneaker drops. approach to retailing was its collaboration While those events continue to draw huge with Mephisto in July. It’s not exactly the crowds of diehards who love touching the first brand that jumps to mind as a partner merchandise and being part of the scene, for one of the world’s top sneaker boutiques. the challenge has been to generate traffic But Creative Director Deon Point says this in between the drops. “Whether it’s custom was exactly the type of forward-thinking packaging, build-outs, aligning with some approach Concepts and its founder, Tarek brands or celebrity and athlete appearances, Hassan, have built their reputations on. it’s up to us to create those moments,” Point “It was one of the moments last year that says. “We can’t rely on the brands as much to showcased our creative freedom, whereas do that because they seem to increasingly have some of our competitors played it a little their own agenda with direct-to-consumer safe,” Point says. “It’s our responsibility to efforts.” Part of the effort to drive weekday do different than our competitors.” traffic involves making sure the selection The Mephisto x Concepts “Match”—the meets the needs of the entire customer base, brand’s top-selling walking shoe—came in which extends well beyond sneakerheads. “We two vibrant colorways: mint and magenta. have guys in their late 30s and 40s looking “We did a really summer vibe,” Point says. for premium and exclusive product,” Point “It wasn’t for the faint of heart.” The release says. “It’s up to Concepts to make sure all of enjoyed similar success to its other collabs. our customers feel welcome in our stores and More importantly, it enabled Concepts to that we have merchandise that meets their introduce a new brand to core customers and needs.” Last but not least, Point says Concepts to extend its offerings to consumers who are must better understand why consumers shop not seeking the usual athletic shoes—just as online. “Is it convenience? Is it just laziness? it did when it partnered with Birkenstock Is it that people don’t have time to shop the on its Boston clog in orange felt a couple of marketplace like they once used to?” he asks. years ago. Point believes Concepts’ powerful “We’ll continue to research and do our best cool factor has helped to fuel that brand’s to figure out what our niche is.” subsequent success. “Our view of Concepts In the meantime, Point says Concepts will as a brand is luxury sport, and Birkenstock Top to bottom: The Mephisto x Concepts “Match”; inside the continue to push the envelope and stay at first-of-its-kind Adidas x Concepts boutique in Boston. and Mephisto are luxury in their own rights,” least one step ahead of the competition. That’s he says. “There’s a lot of heritage in both the Concepts difference in a nutshell: Rather brands, and when you look at the big scheme of things, it makes sense for than react to market conditions, the chain has stayed ahead of the curve and Concepts.” Point adds, “We’re always planting seeds for what we foresee to be created new markets—just like it did nearly a decade ago when it was the first bigger moments down the line, and this will help cement our partnerships to merchandise luxury brands like Gucci and Balenciaga alongside the likes of with Birkenstock and Mephisto going forward.” and Nike. That has become the norm across retail—as has the sneaker A partnership already firmly cemented with Adidas got stronger in 2017 with boutique format Concepts is credited with inventing. Beyond that, how many the opening of the first-ever, co-curated Adidas x Concepts store on Boston’s retailers can report expanding their footprint, introducing groundbreaking famed Newbury Street. The 1,200-square-foot gallery space has quickly become concepts and significantly growing sales over the past two years—and expecting a destination for streetwear fans to experience Adidas’s pinnacle product, to do it again in 2018? Concepts can. “We’re always planning ahead, trying to including an array of its coveted sneaker and apparel collaborations—among figure out where the market is going, to what extent we play in it and finding them, Yeezy, Stella McCartney, Rick Owens and Raf Simmons. Point says the ways that make sense for customers to come shop with us” Point says. “At the response has been “amazing.” What’s more, the opening represents another same time, we also have a game plan that doesn’t need to conform to anything example of Concepts breaking new ground. “Before, it was shop-in-shops and that is going on currently in fashion or otherwise.” —G.D.

28 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

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ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE; BEST SNEAKER COLLAB ADIDAS

ADIDAS WAS FEELING mighty “Happy” again by the end of 2017. The tion with a campaign that encouraged the world to let their voices be heard powerhouse brand continued to plow ahead on growth and overall brand by delivering personal messages that inspire change through love,” Naderi- awareness, Retail Apocalypse be damned. In fact, since the relaunch of the Nejad says, adding, “Pharrell is an influential creator in so many ways, and Stan Smith in 2014, the brand’s broad lifestyle mix has been at the forefront his ideas and inspirations permeate the culture, resulting in true connection of the athleisure movement with a range of spot-on casual athletic styles, with consumers.” While not a huge contributor to Adidas’ overall bottom line, exclusive collaborations and more rebirths of its classic silhouettes that have Powell concurs that collaborations like Williams’ delivers on increased brand landed onto the feet of influencers, celebrities and millions of followers and awareness. “Pharrell brings fresh point of view, use of color, sense of humor fans worldwide. and compassion in what he does,” he says. The Stan Smith—first launched in 1971—con- While music has been a part of Adidas’ ethos since tinued to be a key silhouette in 2017, according its partnership with Run DMC, Naderi-Nejad believes to Pascha Naderi-Nejad, senior brand director of sport style and music go hand-in-hand today. “These Adidas Originals North America. Additional top artists bring their creative vision to the brand in an sellers in 2017 included the Superstar, Crazy, EQT organic, relatable way resulting in exciting projects and Campus—franchises that reference the brand’s that continue to shape the industry,” he says, adding history. Newcomers like the Prophere and I-5923, that partnerships with musicians Kanye West and which feature a mélange of basketball, Pusha T also continued to fuel Adidas’ street cred and soccer influences incorporated into futuristic last year. Toss in the collaborations with fashion designs, were also popular items. “While Adidas designers Raf Simons, Stella McCartney and Rick Originals is comprised of lifestyle collections and Owens, and it’s easy to see how the brand is expand- products, everything we do and design is rooted in ing its demographic at both ends of the spectrum sport and ultimately inspired it,” Naderi-Nejad says. and with both genders. “With these two elements in mind, we continuously Indeed, putting the customer first was the core of challenge ourselves to examine our heritage and Adidas’ marketing in 2017. The company not only our storied place in sport culture and how we can aims to create great product, but to always introduce best translate that in modern ways.” new experiences to the consumer. “We’re always Adidas decision to zero in on the as reimagining innovative ways for consumers to shop fashion and not necessarily performance has reso- and engage with us, so we can continue to develop nated with consumers, according to Matt Powell, and deepen our connection with them,” Naderi-Nejad vice president and senior industry advisor for The says. It’s a focus that, Powell says, goes well beyond NPD Group. “We’re in a cycle where performance A-listers and trendsetters. “Adidas woke up to how footwear is not driving the market, and it’s more important midmarket is to the industry,” he says. about sportswear products that draw their aesthetic “They’re one of the few brands that finally figured from performance,” he says. “For stylish shoes that Top to bottom: The classic Superstar and out that the more moderate consumer has taste and feel and look like sneakers, Adidas is on top of the Tennis Hu x Pharrell Williams. sophistication as well, and it’s working. They’re the the game.” In fact, Powell says 2017 was the first one hot brand that’s moved the needle for retailers.” time in memory that Adidas had two shoes (Superstar and Tubular Shadow) Adidas expects to pick up where it left off this year, despite the uncertainty of ranked in the retail tracking agency’s Top 10 selling styles for the year. What’s the retail marketplace. CEO Kasper Rorsted recently predicted another strong more, Powell reports the brand overtook Jordan Brand as the No. 2 brand year of growth in the U.S. for this year across all retail channels, especially for sports footwear. online. Digital sales in the U.S. during the first nine months of 2017 spiked Keeping Adidas at the top of the sneaker game is the brand’s numerous more than 60 percent, and the exec reiterated the company’s goal of reaching collaborations last year, with Adidas Originals = Pharrell Williams a standout. a 20-percent market share here. Powell, for one, believes that Adidas has more Perfectly mixing sport and lifestyle, Williams raised his game by centering upside, especially if it sticks with its winning formula. “If you go back a couple on the importance of positivity, even naming the signature style the Hu, of years, that’s when Adidas decided to focus on what U.S. consumer wanted based on the first syllable of “human.” In the age of emotional marketing to buy,” he says. “They moved a couple hundred employees from Germany campaigns, the “Happy” songwriter’s thoughtful approach to design with a to its Portland offices, changed their business practices to leverage that and, big picture message resonated with consumers. “He merged the worlds of after years of having European-centric model, their focus on this market is sport, culture and lifestyle together by creating an Adidas Tennis Hu collec- showing great dividends.” —Aleda Johnson

30 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

FW_03_18_Profiles_06.indd 30 3/1/18 3:13 PM INSOLES afterthought in footwear is becoming a centerpiece of the selling equation. Consumers are learning more of the huge difference the right (often customized)

ORTHOLITE pairs of insoles can make. It can be the difference between pain and misery and being able to walk around all day without any discomfort. Retailers are also recognizing the add-on sales potential over- the-counter insoles offer. As margins on shoes get tighter, sales of insoles can be the difference-maker to coming out on the right side of the weekly ledger. “With step-in comfort being so important today at retail, it’s vital to understand that the comfort attributes as well as the fit delivered by OrthoLite will remain for the lifetime of the shoe,” Barrett FITTINGLY, THE FIRST-EVER Plus Award for says, noting that the insole is the most important design excellence in the Insoles category was won comfort component of a shoe. “This drives value, by the industry’s leading supplier, OrthoLite. The sell through and consumer loyalty to the brands company’s insoles, led by its exclusive cell foam we work closely with,” he adds. technology, are found in more than 500 million Barrett cites OrthoLite’s focus on sustainability shoes across all categories each year. Brand partners in both manufacturing and technology as another include Nike, Adidas, Clarks, , , attractive selling point, especially for Millennials. Kenneth Cole, New Balance, Timberland, Tory Burch, Since the company was founded 20 years ago, every Johnstone & Murphy, Wolverine, Rockport, Ecco formulation OrthoLite develops has included at and Vans. In addition, OrthoLite produces its own least five percent recycled rubber, which also pro- collection of over-the-counter insoles as consumers vides its signature speckled look. That percentage increasingly understand the value of customized adds up to more than 300 metric tons of recycled inserts for wellness and comfort. OrthoLite is rubber annually, helping to reduce OrthoLite’s even the official insole of the New York Yankees carbon footprint. and its partnerships with Girls on the Run and the As for notable product introduction in 2017, American Trail Running Association further push OrthoLite launched the XSeries, an expansion the importance of support and cushioning as well of its X40 high-rebound technology featuring 40 as OrthoLite’s brand awareness. percent elasticity. In addition, the X25 and X35 CEO Glenn Barrett reports 2017 saw strong high-rebound solutions enable brand partners gains in both OrthoLite’s licensed and branded to tier their performance story while providing divisions. “Overall, 2017 was amazing and another consumers with high-rebound options across growth year for our company,” he says. “Our more multiple categories and price points. Also new in than 250 brand partners are an integral part of our 2017 was the EcoLT collection, which combines success is a stamp of approval that we cherish.” six percent bio-oil content made from OrthoLite’s BOB CAMPBELL As a vertically integrated manufacturer and chemi- proprietary castor oil formulation in addition to Lifetime Achievement cal systems-house, Barrett notes OrthoLite’s ability the existing five percent recycled rubber content Plus Award Recipient to tailor each of its innovations to meet the specific in every insole. An added bonus of these product needs of both brand partners and consumer-driven breakthroughs was OrthoLite’s ability to seamlessly We’re in awe of your trends is a key to its success. Barrett adds that the integrate them in its existing stable of product accomplishments and your broad range of partnerships across all categories also offerings. “These new innovations were rolled out dedication to service. insulates the company from market share swings at cost neutral to our partners, enabling them Thank you for all you’ve done! that can negatively impact niche-oriented insole to expand their sustainability story into new suppliers. “As an integral part of the comfort and prices or categories,” Barrett says, adding that performance DNA of each shoe, we’re able to help it’s another example of how the company leads our brand partners navigate shifts in consumer by example. “OrthoLite has stood out as both a XOXO, needs or demand,” he says. “OrthoLite also has the category creator and a premium leader, and our unique ability to customize formulations so brand brand is recognized for both quality and perfor- partners can create their own comfort stories that mance,” he says. “Our goal is to over-deliver on are unique to their brand and/or category.” our promise to provide the most comfortable and Barrett credits the growing awareness among best-performing insoles in the world, providing consumers for helping increase sales of OrthoLite a cooler, drier, healthier and more comfortable insoles of late, as well. What used to be viewed an interior of the shoe.” —A.J. PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

COMFORT SPECIALTY FOOTWEAR ETC.

IN A YEAR where flat was the new up across retail, Footwear Etc. was one Monarch says a similar change-in-pitchers scenario played out with its of the few fortunate enough to be flat. The company’s ability to sustain sales head buyer last year. After a solid six-year run that brought in many new comes on the heels of four straight years of solid comp store gains (upwards brands—at lower and higher price points—as well as chasing items success- of 19 percent) and overall growth that saw expansion of the California-based fully at times (and getting stuck with inventory at other times), he believed chain from seven doors to 14 by the end of 2017. President and CEO Andrew a change in overall philosophy was needed. Specifically, a less-is-more, less Monarch says the tough slog last year prompted the chain to refocus, retrench risky approach was in order. “During those years we were growing rapidly, and renew—and rediscover much of what fueled its success in the preceding we had added a lot of brands to our assortment based on the belief that it few years. would make us fun and fresh,” he says. “But we found that in getting away “Staying true to our core has become extremely from our core, we couldn’t be in stock in important in this fluid retail environment,” everything and we also strayed from our roots.” Monarch says. “We’re focusing on being in Instead of trying to build new brands, they stock with our best brands and continuing to decided to go deeper with more established provide a full-service sales experience at the brands. “We’re not in the brand-building fitting stool. We’re also constantly monitoring business,” Monarch says. “We do better when our inventory, selection, turn and margin—every our customers may have already heard of decision is critical, and we don’t have room to the brand. There’s a cache to a Vionic or an make mistakes.” Ecco, and then it’s up to us to take them to Efforts included plenty of behind-the-scenes the next level.” upgrades, led by the decision to decentralize Another area that received plenty of tinkering shipping and receiving. That was a big deal, in 2017 was Footwear Etc.’s online strategy. It according to Monarch. For the past 30-plus continues to be about finding the right bal- years, it had been done through a centralized ance between bricks and clicks, Monarch says. warehouse. “The change enables our stores to Back in 2009, the sales split was about even receive merchandise directly from vendors and the shift since has been more in favor of and, in turn, customers can get shoes faster,” stores. “When it got to 50-50, on the one hand he says, noting it’s cut out a day or two on overall numbers looked great, but we had to delivery times. “Now if we get an order at scale back because we weren’t really making The Footwear Etc. merchandise mix in 2017 went narrower and 3:15 in the afternoon, it can go out within 10 deeper on established premium comfort brands. much of a profit online,” he says. “Now we’re minutes directly to the customer,” he adds. almost two-thirds stores. We like that ratio, Additional backroom upgrades at Footwear which is better for our bottom line.” Etc. last year included installation of a new software system with integrated The fact is plenty of Footwear Etc. customers still like to touch and feel POS, CRM and inventory management that is cloud-based and on iPads; before buying. “Our customers will pay full price for brands like Naot, segmenting customer database and marketing to deliver a relevant message to Pikolinos and Mephisto if they are serviced well and if it’s in stock—that’s customers that is in line with what they buy, at which store and when they like a strong value proposition,” Monarch says. “They want someone to provide to shop; and participation in cause-related marketing events, like donations service, educate and engage. You can’t just be transactional; that’s when online in partnership with Naot to victims of the state’s devastating wildfires last fall. plays well.” This also goes for an increasing number of Millennials who are Several key management changes were also made, including the replace- shopping Footwear Etc., Monarch reports. “We’re seeing twentysomethings ment of Footwear Etc.’s head buyer and a store manager. While such person- sitting down, getting measured and buying brands like Birkenstocks and nel changes are never easy, Monarch says sometimes it’s just necessary. The Ugg,” he says. “On one hand, it’s a new experience for younger customers manager change, for example, came after sales at that store had been down for and it’s renaissance retail for older ones.” about six months. Monarch studied everything—selection, location, staffing, Tough overall market conditions aside, Monarch remains a firm believer traffic—and finally looked at the culture. “Maybe the traffic was down because in brick-and-mortar retailing and in the continued success of Footwear of the service we had been giving,” he says, likening it to the seventh inning Etc. He chalks last year up as a good learning experience. “Even after all when a change in pitchers is needed. “We needed to change the energy in the these years, we’re always learning,” he says, adding that expansion is on the store.” It turned out to be the right call. Within 30 days, the store’s sales began agenda. Last year, the company acquired Walkabout Footwear in Walnut trending up. Monarch, however, saw the potential on day two. That’s when Creek, and the plan is to add a couple of stores to go with the chain’s recent he witnessed the new manager, a transfer from one of Footwear Etc.’s newer expansion into the San Diego market. “We like to have three- or four-store locations, fitting a customer in his minivan! “That’s when the customer’s wife pods so we can share labor and inventory,” Monarch says. “Next year, we’ll decided to buy a pair, also,” Monarch says, adding, “I believe the service we probably add second and third locations because we think there’s growth give will perpetuate the traffic we get.” potential in Southern California.” —G.D.

32 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

FW_03_18_Profiles_06.indd 32 3/1/18 3:14 PM OUTDOOR TIMBERLAND

THAT ICONIC YELLOW boot, style 10061, has been the cornerstone of Timberland’s footwear business, and last year was no exception. The waterproof style was the focus of its “We Built It. You Made It” multi-media campaign, celebrating the people who helped build it, according to Tracy Smith, vice president and general manager of Timberland North America. It also continued to get fun makeovers to keep the silhouette fresh, like the women’s luxurious velvet details in seasonal holiday colors. Timberland was also inspired to relaunch its 1978 Hiker and original World Hiker styles last year. The company collaborated with influential brands such as Supreme, Off-White and OVO, resulting in “some of the most sought-after boots of the year,” Smith declares. Another unique part- nership in 2017 revolved around its eco-friendly “Earthkeepers” collection. Together with Thread, a Certified B Corporation that transforms plastic bottles from the streets of Haiti into fabric, Timberland introduced a col- lection of footwear, apparel and accessories. But 2017 was not just about retro styling or being green. “Key technologies like SensorFlex showcased a creative approach to flexibility,” Smith says, adding that the design team integrated across the line. “From sport-inspired styles with athletic white outsoles to rugged boots and casual footwear, SensorFlex provides the ultimate in versatility,” he adds. Timberland produced a series of videos with professional dancers to showcase the lightweight flexibility of the select styles. “The national campaign created dramatic and powerful imagery that came to life in [magazines such as] GQ, on trains and buses, and through robust digital media activations, including interactive mobile ads that invited consumers to test the flexibility of the technology on their smartphone,” Smith says. Last spring, Timberland also debuted a revolutionary lightweight outsole technology called the Aerocore energy system. “Crafted with boot tough- ness, this aerodynamic system blends athletic-inspired design that cushions and energizes so you can be lighter and faster on your feet,” Smith says. The FlyRoam collection with Aerocore resonated among men’s, women’s and kids’ for its rugged appeal blended with a casual, street style, he adds. “Consumers also loved the statement-making men’s Britton Hill collection with SensorFlex and its timeless leather uppers and incredible comfort,” Smith adds. Last year was also the year of the woman for Timberland. The brand continued to introduce more feminine silhouettes that are beauti- ful, timeless and distinctively Timberland, yet with a modern, classic and season-less look, according to Smith. Overall, Smith says 2017 was a year that saw Timberland give customers what they want and need. “In a shaky retail climate, consumers value brands of substance and look to brands they can trust,” he says. “We’re fortunate that Timberland’s heritage of authenticity and innovation delivers on just swims.com that.” —Michele Silver

FW_03_18_Profiles_06.indd 33 2/28/18 2:00 PM PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

BOOTS ONLINE UGG ZAPPOS

ZAPPOS, THE ONLY digital dealer to ever win the Plus Award in this category, did so once again put their own spin on our as the industry took note of its unparalleled selec- iconic Classic boot. Jeremy tion and legendary service. “We view everything applied a custom flame design through the eye of a vendor,” says Joanna Hass, inspired by old Hollywood public relations director for Zappos. “They might hot rods and Phillip featured not be our frontline customers, but we work hard a functional zipper on some to treat them like one. Every interaction we have styles, which was taken directly with vendors is an opportunity for us to reinforce from his ready-to-wear col- our commitment to service.” lection. For our women’s core In 2017, Zappos evolved its customer-centric collection, we introduced our site with the introduction of two new features, Classic Waterproof Collection. The Ones for customers’ favorite sneakers such Consumers’ favorite silhouette as iconic styles from Adidas, Converse and ; offers a new level of function- and Running, which breaks down the category ality. We’re always finding into four subsections of Stability, Neutral, Cross ways to reinvent and innovate Training and Best Sellers. “We’re always trying to UGG, A DIVISION of Deckers Brands, got its through design in our Classic boot and slipper create the best customer experience possible and mojo back as 2017 wore on. Coming off a bit of categories. We’ll continue to create beautiful one thing we found in the last year was our ability a lull, the brand experienced a 4.3 percent net styles that are distinctively Ugg. to talk to customers through various pages on our sales gain in the third quarter (ended Dec. 31, In men’s, boot category highlights were our site,” Hass says. “We thought about those verticals 2017). CEO Dave Powers cited “refined product Neumel sheepskin chukka boot and Harkley, through the eyes of the customer and created a categories, enhanced consumer messaging the hi-top iteration of the Neumel. Combined, destination that offered content, expert advice and wholesale account optimization in much these two styles contributed a 44-percent sales and other things that spoke to our customer as stronger full-price selling across the portfolio increase in our men’s line. We also introduced a whole person.” The strategy will be a key com- during the holiday season” for contributing to waterproof iterations of both styles, which ponent going forward. “When you start bringing the success. Plus, it got cold early across much contributed a 16-percent increase to overall the customer into every decision you make, it of the United States this past winter, and that sales. These styles are an opportunity to grow pays off,” she says. “No matter what’s happening helped the sheepskin-based brand. What’s more, our business domestically and internationally. in the industry, we’ve always viewed ourselves as wool as a material statement is trending strong. Younger male consumers are responding on a customer service company that just happens to Think Allbirds and think Ugg, the brand that their own to Ugg of late. The styles performing sell shoes, , handbags and accessories.” made the material a footwear staple. best have been in the line for years, and the Beth Bartholomew, senior director of Independent Favorable macro trends and weather aside, consumer is discovering and making them Sales at Earth Brands, gives a thumbs up to the Ugg pushed the envelope last year with exciting their own in a very cool way. We see unlim- customer-friendly upgrades. “Zappos has been collaborations, product upgrades, a new spring ited potential in our men’s classic and slipper a really good partner and our brand shows well marketing campaign and a store opening at categories, as well. on their site,” she says. Scott Home, president of The Oculus in the World Trade Center. “It was Fashion Major Brands, makers of Coolway and a great year for Ugg,” says Andrea O’Donnell, What were some other hot items that debuted Musse & Cloud, praises Zappos for being an ideal president, Fashion Lifestyle Brands for Deckers. last year? Our Gita boot, an iteration of the e-tail partner. “We worked really well together on “We grew our business across all genders and Classic adorned with Toscana fur pompoms a launch of a new brand (Freestyle by Coolway) in many footwear categories outside of boots. that targeted a younger consumer, performed exclusively on Zappos last year,” he says, adding, Sales of our lifestyle product—apparel, outer- very well. Also, our core sheepskin slippers “They are quick to fill in and easy to work with.” wear, handbags and socks—also increased 50 Tasman and Coquette in dark olive and gar- In addition to mastering the online shoe retail- percent on the year. Our boot business really net, respectively, did exceptionally well. The ing basics, Zappos continues to think outside the kicked in toward the tail end of 2017, when indoor-outdoor slipper trend is very big, and (shoe) box. The company installed a 25-foot-long the weather got colder and contributed to our these styles thrive because of it. Additionally, aquarium in its employee nap room and CEO best third quarter sales ever.” our tried-and-true Butte cold-weather boot Tony Hsieh’s vision (began in 2012) to create a Here, O’Donnell discusses further why Ugg was a standout last season. community-focused city built around its down- clicked with consumers in 2017. —M.S. town Las Vegas headquarters is becoming a real- Despite a tough year industry-wide, why did ity. Zappos also just entered a partnership with What were product highlights last year? Ugg rise above it? Our point of difference is Caesars Entertainment to open the Zappos Theater Last fall, we launched designer collaborations that there isn’t another brand like Ugg. Our at Planet Hollywood Resort & Casino. The aim is with Jeremy Scott in women’s, men’s and kids’ heritage and quality make us one-of-a-kind. to connect with consumers on a deeper level while and 3.1 Phillip Lim for men. Both designers Ugg is a staple of consumers’ wardrobes. staging A-list entertainment. —M.S.

34 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

FW_03_18_Profiles_06.indd 34 2/28/18 2:01 PM RAIN BOOTS JOULES

THE LATEST BRITISH invasion isn’t rock stars or royalty, but rain boots. Since landing ashore in Fall ’16, Joules has made quite the splash. The lifestyle brand known for its colorful and patterned wellies are catching on nationwide. “Having launched the brand in the U.S. with rain boots, we’re thrilled to be recognized in this category,” says David Wood, the brand’s general manager for the Americas. “It’s been great to see how this market has responded to our unique prints and colorful designs.” While Joules has since expanded its offering to include outerwear, cloth- ing and accessories, rain boots remain its bread and butter. “Rain boot sales have grown significantly worldwide as people learn more about us,” says Bil Waring, senior footwear buyer, adding that the outlook for growth remains strong for this year. “We’ve already had a tremendous response to the start of 2018 and look forward to the next steps in expanding our footprint here,” he adds. Joules has garnered a following with its English country designs and prints, which are all hand drawn at its headquarters in Market Harborough, England. Standouts for 2017 included signature florals, dog prints, bees, dragonflies, spots, stripes and horses. Rain boots came in short and tall versions and a range of bold colors. Last year, Joules also introduced new silhouettes like the Rockingham Chelsea boot with a translucent upper to show prints drawn on the lining on a slimmer silhouette for a modern alternative; the Faux Fur Cuff rain boot; Downton Wellies featuring a high- quality rubber that’s soft yet durable, padded footbed and new super grip wedge sole; and the black Biker rain boot with strap and buckle detailing and a back zipper for ease of entry. “The mid-height boot looks just like a leather biker boot but keeps your feet dry,” Waring says. In addition, Joules launched mini-me versions of its women’s Wellibob and Chelsea rain boot for girls. Both styles feature Joules’ exclusive hand-drawn prints. Waring also singles out the Back Adjusta Welly with its extendable gusset in the back with a strap that enables quick and easy adjustment, and the Pop On Clog rain boot as popular items last year. “These all carry our hand-drawn prints and differ from others in the market as they incorporate a Neoprene Heel counter cuff for comfort and keep secured on the foot,” he says. “They’re great for the outdoors, gardening or dog walking.” Joules’ extensive product range is a big draw for consumers as well as the quality at affordable price points, according to Waring. He adds that 800.962.0030 | the success also stems from strong customer engagement that begins in the www.springfootwear.com U.K. “We’re highly engaged with our customer and listen to them because facebook.com/SpringStepShoes | instagram.com/SpringStepShoes they will tell us what they want,” he says. “When we launch a collection in twitter.com/MySpringStep | pinterest.com/SpringStepShoes | youtube.com/SpringFootwear the U.S., it’s tried, trusted and fit for purpose.” Adds Wood, “Our range of rain boots make our customers smile. They are subtle in their way but are based on our true heritage as an outerwear brand.” —A.J.

FW_03_18_Profiles_06.indd 35 2/28/18 2:05 PM PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

BEST COLLAB with legendary designer Karl Lagerfeld that hit the market in September. Few members of the fashion hierarchy are as well-known for their creativity, VANS X KARL LAGERFELD chicness and ability to stretch the limits as Lagerfeld. And while the Chanel creative director’s penchant for white hair, black sunglasses and high starched collars may seem counterpoint to Vans’ laidback Southern California surfer/ skateboarder aesthetic, it was Lagerfeld’s team that approached Vans. The partnership just made sense, according to Angie Dita, head designer of Vans Classics Footwear. “We decided to work together because both Vans and Karl Lagerfeld’s brand ethos revolves around creating products that are both timeless and iconic,” she says, adding, “It works because couture has taken a different approach to its influence on fashion, especially with a designer like Karl Lagerfeld. He’s known to combine the classics with what’s modern.” Dita says, “The collaboration didn’t seem out of place. Sneaker culture reaches beyond streetwear and has always been connected with fashion.” The Vans x Karl Lagerfeld collection ($40 to $300 SRP) featured 12 apparel items and six shoe styles, including the debut of the SK8-Hi Laceless and the Old Skool Laceless platforms, both outfitted in luxe leather with K-quilted stitching atop white soles. Rounding out the collection was a black leather Classic Slip-on finished with K-quilted details, the Old Skool and Sk8-Hi Reissues in premium leather and outfitted with bouclé fabric quarter-panels atop a black outsole, and the legendary Checkerboard Classic Slip-on remas- IT’S FITTING THAT the winner of the best collab category for 2017 went to tered with a Vans x Karl Lagerfeld cameo print. “We incorporated some of a couture/streetwear blend—a sure sign of the times. Athleisure dominated Karl’s timeless design elements, like boucle fabric and K-quilted stitching, both sidewalks and catwalks last year, and Vans’ array of trendy collabs with onto the shoes while the apparel sticks to his famous black-and-white palette,” many of its classic styles was at the tip of this spear. Notable drops included Dita says, adding that the response was fantastic. “The collection did incred- Peanuts, Brain Dead, Alyx, Barneys and Opening Ceremony, to cite a few, but ibly well! Most styles sold out within minutes on Vans.com, and we had great the one that stood out the most and caused the biggest stir was its partnership sell-through at select retailers.” —A.J.

for our business. We’re covering the inside and the outside of the building.” The second major area that led to Timberland Pro’s success last year was meeting the demand of greater numbers of women getting into labor fields. Instead of the “shrink and pink” strategy, however, Timberland Pro hired a female designer to create a last expressly for women. The HighTower women’s collection launched last fall. These 6-inch work boots feature anti-fatigue technology and polyurethane footbeds with dynamic arches, premium full- grain waterproof leather uppers, an alloy safety toe, cast-metal hardware and fiberglass shank, and antimicrobial linings. “The eight SKUs are a phenomenal success and far exceeded our expectations,” Ammon says. Director of Marketing Cassie Heppner says the company capitalized on the burgeoning female trade worker by creating the campaign, “Made For the Women Who Make,” which highlighted the product as well as different WORK BOOTS opportunities for women to get into the trades. Timberland Pro also partnered with the documentary, Hard Hatted Woman, that focuses on the unionized TIMBERLAND PRO construction trade. “The young woman worker is only first starting to fill this skills gap,” Sineni says. “We’re committed to her, and when she gets there, TIMBERLAND PRO IS workin’ it—literally. The brand had a banner year we’re going to be waiting for her.” in 2017 and scored its third consecutive Plus Award. Led by its “benchmark” Timberland Pro also targeted casual Millennial males, many of who may anti-fatigue underfoot technology and targeting promising demographics of ride skateboards to work. The Powertrain Sport, an athleisure style, was a both younger consumers and women entering the trades, Timberland Pro has big success in 2017 as was the Helix HD. “The Disruptor series has all of the zeroed in on what works. “We’re a research and development company that safety elements that these guys need for their work in a silhouette that is makes boots,” says General Manager Bob Sineni. “We truly care about our comfortable for going to the bar with their friends after work,” Ammon says. worker. We know if we make their life better, they’re coming back.” Lastly, Timberland Pro took pride in its ongoing efforts to give back to Also making a rebound of late is job growth across several industries, like communities in need. The brand planned its 2017 regional sales meeting in warehouses. The opportunities for selling new hires a trusted name in work Puerto Rico so that the 50 employees could fix up an orphanage damaged by boots is growing alongside that growth, according to Design Director Steve Hurricane Maria on the side. For two, 10-hour days, they installed and painted Ammon. “We did benefit from economic tailwinds,” he says. “Manufacturing a fence as well as bought the kids a trampoline. Sineni, for one, is excited for has returned to a level that we haven’t seen since 2008. Everybody is migrat- Timberland Pro to continue to put its best foot forward, because once they ing into the digital space and opening distribution centers, which is very good wear a pair, “We’ve got them for life.” —M.S.

36 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018

FW_03_18_Profiles_06.indd 36 2/28/18 2:06 PM CHILDREN’S NEW BALANCE

MEN’S COMFORT ROCKPORT

GUIDING CONSUMERS TO make “thought- shades and show off hand-finished leath- NEW BALANCE HAS proven time and again that ful” purchases during these economically ers that take their cue from bench-crafted, consumers of all ages and sizes can trust their quality, challenging times was a major component high-end Italian design. For less dressy fit, peformance and comfort aspects. So when it comes of Rockport’s strategy and success in 2017, looks, Rockport’s versatile Colle collection to finding comfortable kicks for kids, parents go for the according to John Daher, senior vice presi- was noteworthy, with simple designs that same brand they trust on their own feet. dent of product. “Consumers look for brands are tailored yet casual, modern yet athletic. Sales in 2017 reflected that trust as New Balance Kids they trust and product that offers versatility “Premium uppers with flexible comfort and experienced double-digit growth within its takedown across seasons and wearing occasions,” he truTECH cushioning technology makes these performance category, says Dean Orfanos, business unit says. “Our consistent dedication to design and easy-to-wear styles with cross-generational manager for New Balance Kids. Growth was strongly comfort and functionality earned that trust.” appeal,” Daher says. fueled by the New Balance Cruz, Coast, Urge and Arishi Rockport made a concerted effort to go As for technology breakthroughs, Daher models. On the lifestyle side, classics like the 574, 990 back to its roots and reemphasize its focus cites the truFLEX engineered spine. Embedded and 4040 did well, especially in ecommerce, which saw on technology and the athletic influences of in the midsole, it provides dynamic motion a significant boost in sales. “Key franchise models and its heritage last year. “Dedication to the art control and energy return during a natural kids-only executions allowed the brand to stand out at of shoemaking across every category and stride that reduces fatigue. Performance knit- retail and gain interest,” Orfanos says. both genders has led to amazing strides ted materials for lightweight breathability Melissa Gerbereux, senior buyer for DNA Footwear in our product development,” Daher says. complete the sporty package. “These more in New York. reports similar success with those styles. “This allows us to better serve the consumer contemporary hybrid styles with elegant Kids’ running was a popular vertical for New Balance, wherever they find us.” silhouettes can be worn to the office and even though the store didn’t carry the adult equiva- There were four standout collections, well into an active evening,” he says. “It’s a lents. “Parents know and wear New Balances, so they according to Daher. The men’s line was true performance story.” trust in it,” she says, adding that anything with Velcro led by Total Motion Fusion/Classic Dress, To get the word out, Rockport played straps and alternate closures sold best in kids’ as well which is an everyday business shoe that in the micro-influencing space to attract as classics like 574. delivers mobility with premium comfort younger consumers on Instagram. There Helping drive sales growth and brand awareness in and looks spot-on with jeans or khakis and were three campaigns: “Travel In Style” kids’ was the company’s #NBGivesBack initiatives ben- a sports jacket. The collection solves the featuring fall boots, “Fall Activities” with efiting children. “We were successful as we continued choice between lightweight and stability, casual/active shoes and “Joy Is Rockport” to implement stories around key franchise models and dispersing the bumps (shocks) in the road featuring dress shoes with a focus on its Total establish new models with kids-only executions to drive over a full-length engineered plate. Next up Motion collection. Additionally, the company excitement,” Orfanos says. One such initiative was the was the DresSports 2 Lite collection, which executed a cross-channel holiday campaign, “1 for You, 1 for Youth” program that donated a pair of offers sports shoe comfort and weight with “Joy Is,” where Instagram followers posted running shoes to New York Road Runners, a public everyday functionality as well as modern, comments on what brings them joy during charity youth program, for every pair of athletic shoes classic dress patterns and finished leathers the holiday season and tagged a friend with purchased at the NYRR Runcenter, which featured the that transition from day to night. Daher says whom they would like to share it. A winner NB Run Hub in New York. the collection proved particularly popular was randomly selected and gifted a free pair Retailers continue to carry New Balance because among younger consumers who grew up of shoes along with their friend. of the wide size range available, vertical product wearing athletic shoes. The shoes feature Chalk it up as another example of Rockport’s stories and exciting collaborations. “New Balance is a lightweight EVA sole with an embedded relentless efforts that delivered, as men’s sales tried-and-true, and they can reach a whole plethora of shank for midfoot support and walkability, surpassed projections for 2017, according to customers, whether they’re in grade school, their early performance linings that wick moisture and Daher. “Our passion has always been build- 20s or someone more mature,” Gerbereux says, noting provide anti-microbial support even during ing great product that invites consumers to many other athletic brands focus only on the trendier “no sock days” in summer. The Style Purpose wear it,” he says. “As I walk airport terminals lifestyle crowd and don’t make shoes with specific kids’ collection proved perfect for consumers or take a seat on a train, if I mention that I needs in mind. “Their assortment speaks to everyone rediscovering tailored dress options, from work for ‘Rockport,’ I’m nearly always treated because anyone can find a pair of comfortable sneakers, modern suiting to stylish jeans. The all-weather to a passionate story about their experience whether they’re looking for performance or lifestyle,” rubber soles come in a variety of translucent wearing our brand.” —M.S. Gerbereux adds. —A.J.

march 2018 • footwearplusmagazine.com 37 PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

MEN’S COLLECTION CLARKS ORIGINALS

WOMEN’S COLLECTION STUART WEITZMAN

FEW BRANDS ARE as synonymous with classic women’s fashion than Stuart Weitzman. Since the label’s acquisition by Tapestry (formerly Coach) from Sycamore Partners in 2015 and the retirement of its legendary namesake officially mid last year, collections haven’t missed a beat. The designs are spot-on trend-wise; the quality remains exquisite; it’s the CLARKS ORIGINALS NABBED its leathers. “There’s been a saturation point choice of leading ladies such as Taylor Swift, Kate Middleton second straight Plus Award in this cat- for collaborations, but we’ve been so and Gigi Hadid; and its flagship stores remain ladies-love- egory. Company executives attribute the strategic,” she says. “We’re not dependent shoes destinations on some of the world’s hottest retail strips, win in 2017 to a few key factors: intense upon [collaborations] to sell. They’re the including Rodeo Drive, Michigan Avenue and Madison Avenue. planning that began back in 2016, which icing on the cake in terms of bringing in It’s a testament to the team, led by CEO and Brand President in part entailed a soft relaunch of the new customers.” Wendy Kahn, who took the helm in the fall of 2016. brand, a design team that continues to Also of note in 2017 was the opening of Tapestry CEO Victor Luis singled out Stuart Weitzman’s wow and leadership in the form of CEO the Clark’s Originals pop-up shop inside “solid growth” in its fourth quarter (sales ending July 1, Mike Shearwood and Gary , iconic Philadelphia streetwear boutique, 2017) that helped the company post a double-digit increase president of Clarks America’s, as well as UBIQ. It ran for three months last fall and in net income for the year. The brand’s sales totaled $88 other key members who have returned to served as an ideal platform to showcase million, up 15 percent. “We invested in the brand, both in the U.S. divison for a fresh approach to the breadth of the brand, McRae says. The stores and most significantly in people, bringing in the key future business. It also doesn’t hurt that space hosted several in-store activities, like leadership and design talent to drive performance in both Manolo Blahnik and Anthony Bourdain the monthly “The World Needs Originals” growing the global footwear category and in their nascent are fans of the 200-year-old brand’s iconic panel series that featured photographers, accessories business,” Luis stated. The label followed that Wallabees and Desert Boots. musicians and artists, who spoke on the up with second quarter net sales (period ending Dec. 30, A key story in 2017 was the full rebrand- importance of originality. Guests also 2017) of $121 million—up 2 percent. Luis gave a shout out ing of Clarks Originals, according to Tara had exclusive access to the first drop in a to Giovanni Morelli’s creative direction. McRae, senior vice president of marketing series of collabs with UBIQ and the life- Sandi Lanier, manager at Monkee’s of the Village in and ecommerce. “We had a new strategic style accessories brand, Pintrill. McRrae Winston-Salem, NC, reports Stuart Weitzman is a cornerstone. approach, including a new logo treatment adds that the shop was an ideal setting “We’ve had them for 17 years,” she says, citing the trust factor and new product,” she says. “It’s been a to witness sell-through of the Trigenic in the label’s quality. “They do terrific in our stores because very exciting year for us.” Evo. “Being able to introduce a style into their shoes fit true to size,” she adds. Stuart Weitzman gives Product has been divided into three the marketplace [and not being] one of women what they want, agrees Amanda Astor, vice president pillars: Dress, Sport and Casual Icon. A the big guys within sneaker culture was of stores for The Shoe Box, a six-store chain in New York, top seller last year was the Trigenic Evo, fantastic,” she says. Florida and Georgia. The clientele is a mix of women who part of the Sport pillar. It features a three- Despite a tough year for the industry seek the latest trends and classic styles. “Stuart Weitzman piece outsole construction that replicates overall, Clarks Originals had a “fantastic covers both,” she says. natural foot motion. The brand also kept ’17,” McRae reports. The company surpassed Stuart Weitzman’s 5050 and Highland boots were standouts pace with the collab movement, including its targets. “I’m proud of the product and in 2017. Both were top sellers for Lanier, along with the black the OVO x Clarks Originals Desert Boot design team and what they have accom- Tessa and kitten heel Poco pump—perfect for more mature in partnership with Drake. It sold out plished,” she says. “They continue to consumers, she says. The 5050 also sold well at The Shoe Box. in a matter of minutes, McRae reports. innovate and design and that, combined “The 5050 has grown so much in popularity. It passes between Another notable collab was a partnership with some amazing marketing, has enabled family members because everyone knows it’s a reliable style,” with Barneys for limited-edition men’s us to perform well. We truly are a global Astor says, adding that the Highland and Lowland boots and and kids’ Wallabees in ultra-premium team working on a global brand.” —M.S. anything with pearl detailing also sold well. —AJ.

38 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2018 on and have a relationship with the people servicing them remains of value, WOMEN’S COMFORT he notes. “They find out what fits, looks good and leave the store content and happy,” Barad says. “We’ve chosen to support brick-and-mortar retailers, and TAOS that we think it’s the right thing to do. It’s working very well for us.” Classic sneaker silhouettes, in particular, worked well for Taos last year, according to Barad. The launch of the Taos Active collection blew out of stores. Led by its Curves and Pods comfort footbed that offers heel, arch and metatarsal support combined with “curves” that hug the contours of the foot and shock-absorbent “pods,” the collection delivered on a sneaker’s expected comfort premise. While the palette of rich earth tones and artisan finishes raised the bar on “sneaker” style. Taos Active has “taken on its own personal- ity” and has become a stand-alone brand, Barad adds. While Barad says all Taos shoes are comfortable, the look and quality are what drives sales. In fact, he describes Taos’ positioning as a lifestyle brand that just happens to be comfortable. “We build with better components—our sandals last longer than most—and the consumer is recognizing it,” he says. “She keeps coming back, and bringing her friends.” Barad adds, “Everyone is worried about margin, margin, margin and we’re worried about product, WELCOME TO THE winner’s circle! Taos marks its first Plus Award led by product, product. We make sure something is trend-right, looks good and, its classic approach: recognize a trend, create great product and support retail whenever we can, we make the product adjustable. That’s a big part of our partners to the fullest. Taos, a self-proclaimed David in the world of footwear success.” Goliaths, has stealthily evolved into a solid, year-round women’s comfort lifestyle Another factor contributing to the success of Taos is its commitment to shoe resource. The winning formula is working so well that President Glen putting the needs of its customers first—both retailers and consumers. For Barad doesn’t relate to what many others are saying about 2017 being a tough example, Taos has one of the most stringent MAP policies in the industry. “We environment. Taos’ sales are up double digits, which marks several years in a are 100-percent clean and have no issues in the marketplace,” Barad says. “It’s row of such growth for the 13-year-old company. The good fortune extends sad that we have to allocate funds to do this, but you have to because it allows to many of its retail partners as well. “It’s been a healthy year,” he says. “The our retailers to feel confident about investing in our brand.” Happy retailers majority of our retailers are having the best year they’ve ever had.” are repeat customers. Same goes for consumers. “The most important thing Barad is a firm believer that quality brick-and-mortar stores remain a vital is to make sure the consumer is taken care of and wants to come back to you,” channel in the industry. The ability for a consumer to walk into a store, try shoes he says. “Without her, you don’t have longevity. “ —M.S.

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