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$2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 17 APRIL 26–MAY 2, 2019 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 74 YEARS Manufacturer Three Dots Closes Doors

By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor After nearly 25 years in business, Three Dots, a con- temporary knit tops and womenswear company launched in 1995 by Sharon Lebon, has ceased operations. Calls to Lebon, the company’s chief executive and presi- dent, and to Bruno Lebon, the company’s vice president, were not answered, and emails to sales representatives bounced back as undeliverable. Sources said the company, based in Garden Grove, Calif., shut its doors on April 18, right before the Easter weekend, while sales reps were out on the road selling the label’s knit tops and collection. “They were desperate for cash to go forward,” one source said. As recently as mid-April, a sales representative was selling the label’s collection at the Fashion Market Northern Cali- fornia trade show, held five times a year in San Mateo, Calif. It was unclear how many employees were laid off. As of this week, the company’s owners were selling the venture’s manufacturing equipment, one source said. Three Dots started out small, but by 2006 its revenues had ➥ Three Dots page 3 Traditional Retailers Have a Change of Heart Regarding the Value of Resale By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor

What is old is becoming new again for traditional retailers looking for added revenue streams. That’s because the sec- ondhand clothing, and market has been gaining an unprecedented amount of traction with store owners. According to the “2019 ThredUp Resale Report,” the re- sale market in the last three years has grown 21 times faster than the traditional retail-apparel market. In 2018, 12 million more women bought secondhand products than in 2017, an increase from 44 million to 56 million. “The resale customer is no longer somebody else’s cus- tomer. They are everybody’s customer,” James Reinhart, the co-founder and chief executive of ThredUp, wrote in the report. “Mass market or luxury, if people can find a high- quality product for much less, they’ll choose used. As the line between new and used apparel blurs for consumers, a ➥ Luxury Resale page 3

INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business SM COURTESY OF JOHNNY WAS

4 6 AS THE WORLD TURNS Second Generation sold ... p. 2 Women’s denim sales up ... p. 2 The designers for the Johnny Was brand traveled the world for inspiration for Marine Layer using old T- ... p. 8 their Fall ’19 collection with lots of ethnic influences. For more looks, see page 7.

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01,3.cover.indd 1 4/25/19 5:58 PM NEWS Second Generation Sells Its Juniors Labels to L.A. Company Second Generation, a ju- started by Weisberg; his father, been very proud of,” said Michael Weisberg, niorswear company founded in Shelly Weisberg; and his broth- an attorney who put his law ambitions on Los Angeles in 1996, has sold er Gregg Weisberg as a small hold to help out his father and brother run the its three juniorswear labels to a juniorswear company whose apparel company. “I thought I would go back Los Angeles company associ- main clients are Macy’s, Stage, to practicing law, but that never happened.” ated with Star Fabrics. Belk and T.J. Maxx, among Last August, Weisberg did start practicing The three labels sold on others. law again with the law firm Brutzkus Gub- March 20 were BeBop, Fish- Over the years, Second Gen- ner Rozansky Seror and Weber, located in bowl and Gypsies & Moon- eration grew and eventually Woodland Hills, Calif., but he still remains dust, said Michael Weisberg, moved into a 40,000-square- a partner in Wild Horses Apparel, a Los the company’s chief executive, foot building the company Angeles company that owns the juniorswear who did not disclose the price bought in Vernon, Calif., where label Emerald Sundae. paid by Adir Haroni, who owns the venture’s warehouse is lo- Secret Charm, whose chief executive is Secret Charm, Star Fabrics cated. Last year, the company’s Adir Haroni, plans to run the recently ac- and City Triangles. Haroni revenues were $24 million. quired juniorswear labels as fairly autono- formed a new company, called “It was kind of the right mous brands, Weisberg said, with all the Second Generation LLC, to thing to do at the right time, but same employees moving to Secret Charm’s buy the labels. it has been very difficult to let headquarters near downtown Los Angeles. Second Generation was go of something the family has —Deborah Belgum BeBop clothing

What Kinds of Blue Are Women Buying? Bebe Stores Blue jeans never fade away, but they the previous year. More than half of those discounting means marketers need to find come and go in popularity. In recent years, jeans bought during that 12-month period new ways to inspire the women’s-jeans con- Names New blue jeans have faced increasing competition were purchased on sale, according to The sumer and deliver product that compels them from activewear and athleisure pants that NPD Group, a market-research company to take their purchase to the next level.” have more stretch and are extremely com- based in Port Washington, N.Y. In-store sales still account for an over- Board Member fortable as well as versatile. Off-price jeans now make up 17 percent whelming number of blue-jean purchases— But the return of the blue jean in the of blue-jeans sales and are driving the major- some 80 percent in the last year. But these Bebe Stores Inc. has named a new mem- United States is being seen by the space ity of growth in women’s jeans. “The recent purchases are on the decline with online ber to its board of directors. New to the board these cotton-denim pants are occupying in growth in women’s jeans is good news for sales driving growth in the market. There is Perry Mandarino, who became a member women’s closets. the industry. Women want to wear more than was a 32 percent increase in online sales of on April 22. He replaces Kenneth Young, a For the 12 months ended February 2019, just and ,” said Marshal women’s jeans over the 12-month period director who joined the board last year. women bought 364 million pairs of jeans, Cohen, chief industry adviser, The NPD compared to the previous year. Mandarino is the senior managing direc- which amounts to 22 million more pairs than Group. “But the emphasis on quantity and Women shopping online tend to purchase tor, co-head of investment banking and head more and purchase more frequently. The of corporate restructuring at B. Riley FBR average online annual spend per buyer on Inc. He has advised more than 400 compa- women’s jeans was 4 percent higher than nies during his career as a financial adviser. last year, and women purchased women’s “We are excited to welcome Perry to jeans through online sites twice a year on Bebe’s board of directors. Perry brings deep Sun Dragon Import, Inc. average. knowledge of our industry and has served as “The denim consumer has changed,” Co- a trusted adviser to us throughout the suc- hen said. “Manufacturers and retailers are cessful completion of our business transfor- SUSTAINABLE AND ECO-FRIENDLY now faced with the challenge of strengthen- mation,” said Manny Mashouf, the brand’s ing the consumer’s passion for jeans to en- founder and chief executive. “In addition, we YARNS AND IMPORT SPECIALTY FABRICS sure they are more than a commodity in their truly appreciate the service Kenny has pro- eyes.”—D.B. vided to the board during his tenure and wish him all the best in his future endeavors.” In 2017, Bebe announced it would lay off 700 employees and close its entire retail chain, which consisted of 134 stores and 34 outlet stores. The strategy was part of the remake of Bebe, a once fashion-centric retail chain started in San Francisco in 1976 by Mashouf. We have been introducing sustainable and ECO-friendly yarns since The shuttering of stores and closing of we started in 2005. the company’s design studio and offices in Los Angeles helped the retail chain avoid We believe ECO system stays with what we breathe, eat, and wear. bankruptcy. Earlier, it sold half its brand for Also, what we wear reflects our appreciation to mother earth. $35 million to Bluestar Alliance, a New York brand-management company that over We continue developing novelty, intimate, textured yarns with the years has acquired several labels includ- Tencel A100, Modal, Linen, Supima Cotton, Hemp, RPET, recycled ing English Laundry, Nanette Lepore and cotton, organic cotton, bamboo, silk, cashmere, and blends. Catherine Malandrino. Bluestar Alliance came out with a new Our concentrations are misses and menswear but also fashion collection of sexy with new sizes and oriented toward the junior fast trend market. new categories, which have been sold online. Last year, Bebe pulled the wraps off its first We customize special yarns for each customer for their special lifestyle store in New York City, located near needs. No customer is too small or too big. the Empire State Building at 1 W. 34th St. The outpost is a new concept store that in- Custom work available and all size cludes a beauty bar organized through a part- companies are welcome. nership with beGlammed, an on-demand beauty service where shoppers can have their Sun Dragon Import, Inc. hair and makeup done on site. There is also a 3742 E. 26th St. personalization bar where shoppers can cus- Vernon, CA 90058 tomize clothing items—from jeans to jack- Tel: (323) 362-5505 ets—using Swarovski crystals, patches and Fax: (323) 980-5021 embroidery. On-site stylists help customers define Email: [email protected] their personal style and wardrobe with the sundragonimport.com possibility of ordering from the Bebe website Indigo Rein jean using in-store iPads.—D.B.

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 26–MAY 2, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

02.news.indd 2 4/25/19 6:15 PM NEWS

David Bitton. owner/designer, and therein lies a significant issue. It is in- Continued from page 1 Three Dots Sequential Brands Group, also in New York, has bought cumbent upon that person’s vision to keep the brand moving a stable of California labels including Joe’s Jeans, Jessica forward. Brands that have a ‘team of people with a transition reached $26 million, according to published reports, but last Simpson and William Rast as well as Ellen Tracy, Martha strategy’ to keep pace ahead of the fashion trends have a year revenues were down to $12 million, sources said. Stewart and Caribbean Joe. chance for a longer life cycle.” By the middle of the week, Three Dots had not filed any “All brands have life cycles of their own. A few brands Sharon Lebon and her now-former business partner, John documents with the U.S. Bankruptcy Court Ward, founded Three Dots in the mid-’90s but was planning to meet with an investor with the idea of making fabulously fitted who might be interested in buying the trade- T-shirts and contemporary tops with qual- mark. ity fabric and great design. For many years, The company has been trying to sell its the company’s collection of tops was made venture over the past few years. Earlier this at the company’s headquarters, located in a year, sources said Three Dots’ owners met 70,000-square-foot building in an industrial with Chinese investors to try to sell the com- park in Garden Grove. Later, some of that pany, but the deal fell through after the Chi- production was contracted to sewing facto- nese company pulled out. ries in the Los Angeles area as Three Dots “It has been harder for contemporary branched out into dresses and other lifestyle clothing companies to stay in business be- items. cause there are fewer multi-line stores to At one time, the company’s collection sell to and there is not a lot of floor space was selling at 2,000 specialty boutiques and in the bigger department stores,” said Mark in stores in Europe, Asia, Canada and Aus- Brutzkus, a bankruptcy attorney at Brutzkus tralia. Gubner Rozansky Seror Weber, who often The company also had a handful of its works with apparel-industry clients. “So un- own stores in areas such as Newport Beach, less you are doing a lot of direct-to-consumer Calif., and in Tokyo. Those have been business, it is tough to make it as a contem- closed. Three Dots is still a popular seller porary brand.” can last a lifetime or more such as Levi’s, but most have a at high-end department stores including Bloomingdale’s, It is hard to keep a brand alive, which is why there are limited life,” said Rob Greenspan, the president of Green- where a ribbed turtleneck is listed online for $66, a long- so many labels-management companies out there snapping span Consult, which works with a number of apparel com- sleeved crew-neck T- is going for $48, and a striped- up faded labels. Iconix Brand Group in New York has panies. “Most contemporary brands fall into the category of gauze tie-front is selling for $134. acquired several veteran California labels, including OP, a limited life span due to the nature of rapidly changing fash- In 2016, the company launched its first plus-size collec- Bongo, Ed Hardy, Mossimo and Rampage as well as na- ion trends and the ability to stay ahead of the fashion curve. tion, which initially was being sold at Nordstrom as it tried tional labels including London Fog, Fieldcrest and Buffalo Oftentimes the brand is led by a single person, usually the to generate new revenue streams.

Luxury Resale Continued from page 1 With growth over 50 percent year over year, Fashionphile experienced powerful transformation in retail will unfold.” great success as a pioneer of luxury Compared with shopper priorities from five years ago, San resale, allowing the online reseller to Francisco–based ThredUp, a fashion resale website, found open four storefronts over 10 years. the number of consumers who think about the resale value of Beginning with the launch of its the products before buying has increased nearly twofold, to Beverly Hills location in 2008, fol- 40 percent, which shows a greater interest in reselling from lowed by San Francisco, San Diego the initial point of purchase. and a Manhattan storefront in 2018, While 51 percent of consumers surveyed are moving to- Fashionphile created an opportu- ward more secondhand shopping within the next five years, nity for resellers to easily sell their the luxury resale market is showing extraordinary growth goods. Through the partnership with with a 16 percent projected increase. Neiman Marcus, “The luxury-consumer mindset has Fashionphile should changed. We’ve seen that consumers soon have two pi- shopping retail want to know the resale lot locations within value of designers and items before they the retailer’s stores make a purchase,” explained The Real- and five additional Real’s chief merchant, Rati Levesque, shops by the end of whose San Francisco company has con- the year. signment locations in New York City, “We don’t sell Chicago, Dallas, Miami, San Francisco bags at our stores— and Washington, D.C., and sites that also we buy your bag sell goods in Manhattan’s SoHo neigh- and we sell online,” Data: ThredUp borhood and in Los Angeles. “They Davis said. “You make purchases now knowing they will can bring your bag to our Beverly Hills invest in quality pieces with the intent of eventually resell- eventually consign it and make a signifi- store; you walk out with a check and we ship ing to another shopper, they will need to replace those items cant portion back on the original cost— your bag to Amsterdam [for example]. That with new premium goods and bring their business to luxury it’s an investment.” is the strategy.” retailers. This shift toward consumer demand As a reseller that has enjoyed its own “The more people are able to participate in this, the more and recognition of the secondhand, pop-up partnerships with retailers such as they are able to get the money out of their investment pieces high-end-goods market as an important Stage, Bealls, Goody’s, Palais Royal and and they’ll spend more in the primary market,” Davis ex- segment was noticed by Dallas-based Peebles, ThredUp is reporting that second- plained. “In Japan, they have a sophisticated, decades-old luxury retailer Neiman Marcus. It re- hand shoppers are increasingly moving away secondary market. That country is the No. 1 consumer of cently announced it was investing in from shopping exclusively at traditional re- luxury goods in the world—their secondary market helps Fashionphile, a luxury reseller in Carls- tailers for new products, with 72 percent of fuel that.” bad, Calif. consumers revealing that they shifted their As more executives of traditional retailers recognize the “Our investment in Fashionphile is Data: ThredUp spending toward previously owned goods. opportunity that lies in embracing the resale market, they an exciting step in a five-year increase The ThredUp report found that 22 percent will generate revenue streams for their companies. Within of Neiman Marcus Group’s transforma- of value-chain customers who shop stores the resale report it was revealed that 96 percent of senior tion into a luxury-customer platform as we work to better such as Walmart, Target and Old Navy are also purchas- retail executives want to fortify circular-fashion initiatives serve our customers, continue to shape the future of luxury, ing secondhand goods, and 25 percent of department-store by 2020. and position Neiman Marcus for long-term and sustainable customers engage in buying preowned items. At 26 percent, “Primary market brands have started to realize that con- growth,” said Geoffroy van Raemdonck, chief executive of- a higher number of premium-brand shoppers who buy brands signment players are helping extend the discovery, reach and ficer of the Neiman Marcus Group, in a statement. such as Gucci, Chanel and Prada are in the market for sec- ‘covet-ability’ of their brands,” Levesque said. “An item with Specializing in the online resale of luxury and ondhand pieces. a strong resale value can strengthen the brand as a whole.” accessories, Fashionphile executives saw Neiman Marcus’s “The last few years of growth in the resale market have Beyond increasing revenue, retailers can also build their minority-stake investment as the perfect way to celebrate the been driven by the early adopters (the same ones who first sustainability efforts through contributing to a circular econ- 20-year anniversary of the reseller’s launch. adopted Airbnb or Lyft or DoorDash), but now the skeptics omy that decreases waste when goods enter the resale mar- “A company like Neiman Marcus partnering with a com- are starting to come around,” Reinhart said in the report. “At ket. The move towards tapping into the resale market could pany like ours is really a dream,” Fashionphile founder and ThredUp, we’re seeing first-time thrifters coming to plat- prove an extraordinary, unexpected win for retailers. President Sarah Davis said. “We’ve been working on this forms like ours in droves.” “This is a legitimate sector. There is a lot of good it’s do- for so long and trying to build the company in a way where By reselling previously owned items, retailers are able to ing,” Davis said. “There is money to be made and it’s such an we are focusing on our brand so we would be thought of in generate more opportunities to sell their new goods, which in economically and eco-friendly, green way to shop that every- circles like that.” turn will build a stronger retail economy. When consumers one should be involved in it.”

APPARELNEWS.NET APRIL 26–MAY 2, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01,3.cover.indd 3 4/25/19 5:59 PM RETAIL

Developer to Start Update on Playa Vista Retail Center

The seaside neighborhood of Playa Vista, Invesco Real Estate purchased Runway not far from Los Angeles International Air- for $475 million in 2016, according to the port, is the new home of tech giants Google Los Angeles Times. In 2018, DJM assumed and Facebook, which recently opened big the jobs of property development, construc- offices there. tion, leasing, marketing and branding for the Now, DJM Capital Partners, Inc. wants development. A coworking space that in- to make sure that high-end retail is there for cludes the child-care center Brella is sched- the tech crowd. uled to open by fall. The developer of such mixed-use retail Montreal-headquartered activewear re- centers including Bella Terra and Pacific tailer Lolë Apparel opened a boutique at City in Huntington Beach, Calif., as well as Lido Ma- rina Village in Newport Beach, Calif., will embark on a $9.1 million redevelop- ment of mostly around one acre of the Runway Playa Vista, which is a mixed-use center described as Playa Vista’s living room. Groundbreaking is scheduled for May 9, and the project will up by the end of this year, said Stenn Parton, DJM’s chief retail officer. The 14-acre mixed-use TPC Spring Networking Event! development currently fea- tures neighborhood-style tenants, including Runway earlier this month. Steakhouse Join us for an exciting evening of arcade games, a Cinemark movie house, a CVS Pharma- restaurant Bull & Butterfly is scheduled cy, a Whole Foods grocery store, a Chase to open this fall, and in November the new virtual reality, carnival snacks and cocktails! bank, 30,000 square feet of medical offices concept Free Market is scheduled to take and an urgent care run by Cedars-Sinai. a bow. DJM will redevelop the area into a more pe- The 20,000-square-foot anchor will offer Thu., May 30, 5:30 - 8:30 p.m. destrian-friendly atmosphere with more than pop-up shops for direct-to-consumer brands 50 shops and restaurants, Parton said. and environments for established retailers as “The question is, How do you make it well as food carts and events spaces. Two Bit Circus feel more intimate? How do you make a Free Market was co-founded by Raan community-focused space that will be the Parton and his wife, Lindsay Parton. Raan 634 Mateo St, Los Angeles, CA 90021 living room of Playa Vista?” Parton asked. A Parton co-founded the Los Angeles cloth- Los Angeles architecture firm, with the hu- ing brand Apolis. In 2013 Raan and Lindsay morous name Design, Bitches, got the job Parton co-founded Alchemy Works, which $95 Early Bird available until 5/27*, of making the plans for the redesign, which sells home décor, accessories and clothing at will include bringing more public art and one location in the Arts District of Los An- $125 at the door* improving signage. geles and another location at Lido Marina The redevelopment will emphasize pe- Village. destrian walkways and parklike public Stenn Parton said his brother and sister- www.theprofessionalclub.com spaces. Auto traffic will be diverted from the in-law’s anchor space will enhance the Run- development’s Town Center Drive to sur- way project. “There are common threads rounding streets such as McConnell Avenue, between lessons learned with Apolis and Al- Big Thanks to Our 2019 Sponsors West Jefferson Boulevard and Village Drive. chemy Works,” he said.—Andrew Asch Calendar

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progressive-can.indd 1 3/28/19 2:57 PM DENIM Spirit Lace E-Commerce Brand Naked Wardrobe Enterprise Launches Denim Capsule at First Pop-up Shop By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor and suiting in denim for women. “Over Your best fabric With a successful family business that the next six months, we’re launching much launched in 2012, the Kaviani sisters—Shi- more denim. Anything you can think of and resource for Bridal deh, Shida and Shirin—are further expanding dream of in denim, we’ve got you covered.” and Haute their affordably priced e-commerce apparel Made in Los Angeles, with denim from a company, Naked Wardrobe. local source, the capsule is elevating Naked Couture On April 23, the Kavianis opened their Wardrobe to the next level. The brand already first pop-up shop, a nearly 1,500-square- provides an array of garments, including foot space at the intersection of Los Angeles’ body-hugging dresses, leggings, Featured at the Oscar and Melrose Avenue and La Cienega Boulevard and crop tops; on-trend , , in West Hollywood. slacks, and Emmy Awards red carpet “In October it ; maternity events, celebrity weddings will be our 7-year pieces; outerwear; anniversary, and swimwear; and performances our customers have and accessories. always asked us to The sisters’ goal open up a store,” has been—and • Lace Shideh said. “Once remains—creat- they come into the ing reasonably • Embroidery store, they get to priced quality • Appliqué and more experience it for pieces for clients themselves.” of every size to en- Opening this hance their bodies, first store experi- whether they are Innovative designs ence in Los Angeles petite or curvy, and In-house customization was important for the women, who grew up feel good about how they look. and started their business in Northridge, Ca- “A size small isn’t a traditional size small lif. This first shop experience is a way for Na- as it used to be. Women are more empowered ked Wardrobe to provide greater access to its to embrace their curves and their height,” Shi- (213) 689-1999 brand, which has been available exclusively deh said. “We try to incorporate those things www.spiritlace.com online. and think about those things throughout the “We’re quality driven at an affordable price design process.” point,” Shideh said. “We want to show people In addition to the new denim collection, the difference between our product and our the pop-up shop will include the 2019 swim competitors’. Seeing a black online line, which features string , two-piece can look the same whether it’s $10 or $400.” designs and one-piece suits—which vary The expansion of Naked Wardrobe isn’t from a traditional style to others with cut- Michael Costello Couture

limited to this new, temporary storefront, outs—in trendy animal and snakeskin prints, which will remain open until May 30. bright neon colors and black. The sisters also released a Los Angeles– With some pieces available to purchase as Print + made capsule collection of Naked Wardrobe separates for the first time to accommodate denim, a line that includes jeans in embel- different tops and bottoms sizes, swimwear lished styles featuring rhinestones and Cuban is priced from $20 to $58. The line launched Online + link chains in addition to a basic design. This nearly two weeks ago while a second swim- is a complete collection as opposed to the few wear drop will take place in June. denim pieces that Naked Wardrobe offered in “Before, we used to sell our swimwear Archives the past. in sets. We are listening to our customers “We’ll be rolling out a few more styles around the world, who want us to start sell- over the next couple of weeks. The styles we ing our swim as separates,” Shida said. “Just = Total are launching now are very intricate,” Shida because someone is a medium on top, they explained. “They’re a little over the top, and might be a different size on the bottom—the there is one basic style, but this is such a mo- sizes for sets might not be cohesive.” Access ment of diamonds and crystals and being as While the Kavianis have no current plans flashy as possible. We incorporated that to to shift into wholesale with retail partners, make our denim a little more fun.” they are planning to launch additional pop- Available in sizes 24 through 40, the jeans up experiences in different cities around the Get Yours in the capsule collection are offered with two country and are open to considering a future different inseams that measure 30" and 35" that includes a permanent bricks-and-mortar Today and and three different bodies. Denim shorts will presence. also be released within the next few weeks, Next up on their pop-up-shop map is New Save 50%! and tops, such as corsets, will range from York and Miami, but this week the proud An- call toll-free sizes XS to XL. By Fall 2019, they hope to gelenos were excited about unveiling a Na- expand sizing up to 4X. Retail pricing for the ked Wardrobe experience in their hometown. (866) 207-1448 denim capsule ranges from $79 to $99. “Growing up, we used to grab our girl- “In our new pop-up, we created a beautiful friends and go shopping on Melrose, so denim wall that is the focal point of the space we’ve come full circle” Shida said. “Those and it’s just a little taste,” Shida said, adding girlfriends, whom we shopped with on Mel- ANTHONY EVANS that by the end of the year Naked Wardrobe rose, they’re coming to celebrate with us as Kevan Hall will feature menswear-inspired shirts, jump- well. It’s surreal.”

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 26–MAY 2, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

06.denim.indd 6 4/25/19 6:18 PM FASHION Global Travels Inspire Johnny Was Collection for Fall ’19 Johnny Was has always been a leader when it comes to infusing its beauty,” she explained. ethnic flair into its collection. This year, the designers experimented with different materials and For Fall 2019, the designers for the Los Angeles label continued that fabrications as seen in the label’s reversible , kimono silhouettes tradition by traveling to exotic places for inspiration. Vice President of and flowing tops. Comfort is key and colors are vibrant. “I like to think Design Theresa McAllen said she visited Peru, where she toured Lima of it as activewear with a feminine twist,” Ramar said. and the Incan ruins of Machu Picchu. “It’s a country with such a rich Styles are infused with utilitarian details and silhouettes, such as history, lush landscapes and the most incredible handicrafts,” she re- puffer-style . Coats and have a tailored line. “We also counted. “I was floored by the artisanry and understanding of color.” took some of our classic pieces and gave them a fresh update,” Ramar Biya Ramar, the other vice president of design, has traveled in the last noted. year to China, Thailand and Mexico, where she said even a sidewalk’s That is seen in an updated bomber kimono, which is a bomber silhou- pattern could inspire her. “At Johnny Was, we’re always thinking glo- ette with floral fabric. This season, velvet plays a predominant role in bally even though we’re still deeply rooted in Southern California and tops which, are richly embroidered.—Deborah Belgum COURTESY OF JOHNNY WAS

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APPARELNEWS.NET APRIL 26–MAY 2, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

07.JohnnyWas.indd 7 4/25/19 6:22 PM SUSTAINABILITY Marine Layer Uses Old T-shirts for

Get Inspired! New Collection By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor chemical or water-based cleaner,” Naten- Hundreds of Stocked shon explained. “We don’t dye the shirts. Novelty Knits, To combat the scourge of apparel-man- We sort all the blues, sort all the reds, sort all Wovens, Linings ufacturing waste, San Francisco brand Ma- the light colors. Then we break them down and More! rine Layer is working with consumers to at the color level so all the fibers are re-spun produce a new collection of shirts produced together and don’t need to be dyed again.” completely from recycled Following the sanitiz- One Roll Minimum. T-shirts. ing process, the reclaimed Marine Layer’s founder shirts are transformed into www.cinergytextiles.com and chief executive offi- new textiles by a mill in Tel: 213-748-4400 cer, Michael Natenshon, Spain, and new shirts are [email protected] said this is the first line of manufactured in Los An- T-shirts, tank tops, polos geles. This process pro- and raglans that is pro- vides an apparel-waste duced using 100 percent solution by extending the recycled tees from post- life of the original gar- STUDIO 93,LLC consumer sources. ments, which otherwise “There are a lot of could end up in a landfill. Regular & Deadstock people trying to solve the “It’s a unique program. Wholesale Fabric Supplier sustainability issues in the The only trick is that you fashion world and they’re need a lot of shirts for it End to End Apparel doing a lot of interesting to work. That is the reason Manufacturing Services things,” Natenshon said. it’s so cool to have our cus- “What is unique about this tomers be so supportive. S T U D I O 9 3 program is we’re keeping As long as the shirts keep the shirts from landfills coming, we’ll keep taking and working on what I them,” Natenshon said. think is the biggest prob- Natenshon is extreme- Wide range of fabrication lem in the fashion indus- ly grateful for the com- and colors to choose from! try, which is apparel waste munity’s support, which due to fast fashion.” includes a large number Affordable prices and flexible The company started of donations provided by quantities! out in 2010 with T-shirts consumers who aren’t made from a blend of even customers of the Pima cotton and Modal. brand as well as donated Now, Natenshon sources products from other la- 213-277-9988 www.studio93.info [email protected] old T-shirts from con- bels. sumers, who receive a $5 To begin working on credit for each piece do- the Re-Spun line, Ma- nated—up to $25—result- rine Layer had to collect Go Beyond the News and Behind the Scenes ing in a blend that typical- 10,000 shirts to start the ly comprises cotton and program. It collected 5,000 polyester. Customers can the first day and more than send unwanted T-shirts to 25,000 the first month. To we’re blogging the company via a kit that date, the program has col- Marine Layer provides or simply drop off lected 75,000 in nearly five months. the garments at one of the brand’s 41 retail “Producing Re-Spun wouldn’t be possible locations within the United States. without the knitting and technology that we “The RealReal and ThredUp are doing developed but also the participation from our The editors and writers of cool things with reselling goods, but there is customers,” Natenshon said. California Apparel News only a percentage of your closet that is actu- The program will launch on April 28, but ally resellable. People wear through clothes. Marine Layer is not stopping with this first are blogging at It will get holes, and Goodwill will just step. By fall, the company would like to of- ApparelNews.net/news/blogs throw it away,” Natenshon said. “This is the fer Re-Spun fleece, growing the line from solution for clothes that are beyond repair.” its initial eight SKUs to an additional 25. The only guideline is that the shirts being Within two years, the brand hopes to pro- duce 50 percent of its goods through the Re-Spun initiative. Despite Marine Layer’s commitment to selling its goods exclusively through its own branded online and bricks-and- mortar stores, Natenshon said the com- pany is considering collaborating with

Apparel News Group CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR FINANCE retailers to promote the Re-Spun initia- LOUISE DAMBERG DAVID MARTINEZ tive. DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING CREDIT MANAGER TERRY MARTINEZ RITA O’CONNOR “We want to work with our manu- SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE facturing partners and are open to retail 741945-2019 AMY VALENCIA PUBLISHED BY partners. This program is going to be Seventy-four years of news, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE TLM PUBLISHING INC. fashion and information LYNNE KASCH APPAREL NEWS GROUP more successful the more people who Publishers of: CEO/PUBLISHER BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT participate in it,” he said. “We are in MOLLY RHODES California Apparel News TERRY MARTINEZ Waterwear talks to offer the Re-Spun line to whole- SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST Decorated SERGIO ESPELETA GUILLEN sale retail partners. This is an important EXECUTIVE OFFICE EXECUTIVE EDITOR ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS used for this new material contain at least message that we want out in the market- DEBORAH BELGUM ASHLEY KOHUT California Market Center RETAIL EDITOR CHRIS MARTIN 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 40 percent cotton. Stained, worn, torn and place.” ANDREW ASCH RACHEL MARTINEZ Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 embellished pieces are usable. However, The Re-Spun collection is available for (213) 627-3737 ASSOCIATE EDITOR SALES ASSISTANT PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY Fax (213) 623-5707 any embellishments must be removed by the women in sizes XS–XL and men’s S–XL, DOROTHY CROUCH Classified Advertising Fax workers who produce the Re-Spun line. with the company’s exclusive in-between CONTRIBUTORS CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE (213) 623-1515 ALYSON BENDER JEFFERY YOUNGER www.apparelnews.net Donated pieces that are not usable for re- sizing of Marge—a medium/large—and VOLKER CORELL PROFESSIONAL SERVICES [email protected] JOHN ECKMIER & RESOURCE SECTION spinning are repurposed into insulation. In Larger. Starting April 28, the line will be JOHN McCURRY JUNE ESPINO addition to recycling T-shirts, the cleaning available through Marine Layer’s retail lo- ESTEVAN RAMOS PRODUCTION MANAGER PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. TIM REGAS KENDALL IN and sanitizing process for the garments is cations, online at www.marinelayer.com N. JAYNE SEWARD HOPE WINSBOROUGH EDITORIAL DESIGNER waterless and free of toxic chemicals. and on the road with the brand’s first mo- NATALIE ZFAT JOHN FREEMAN FISH “The whole process is waterless—it’s bile store, which will travel throughout the WEB PRODUCTION MORGAN WESSLER pretty cool. The fibers are cleaned using United States for six months. Retail prices an ultraviolet technology as opposed to a range from $52 to $92.

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 26–MAY 2, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

08.marineLayer.indd 8 4/25/19 6:26 PM SUSTAINABILITY Eco Collaboration Promoted During First Sustainable Apparel Coalition Event in L.A. By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor also get to understand the clothing items people keep—the rate sustainability for Guess. bodies, styles and colors. What are the things that become The discussion addressed concerns of apparel-industry Bringing together experts and apparel-industry veterans, loved clothes that last?” professionals who want to implement sustainable practices the Sustainable Apparel Coalition hosted its first Los An- During the event, the Sustainable Apparel Coalition also but feel overwhelmed by the seemingly insurmountable task geles event at the California Market Center on April 24. showed how its sustainability-measurement tool—The Higg of becoming an eco-friendly and ethical brand while still re- The organization works within the apparel industry to lead Index—can be used to ensure brands are progressing toward maining profitable. Lincoln outlined the path toward reach- sustainable, ethical initiatives by limiting environmental im- more ethical and ecologically sound practices. The Higg In- ing this sustainable-apparel goal by referring to the steps she pact and promoting social welfare for garment workers. dex has become a benchmark for companies at every stage took to develop her Spring 2020 swimwear line using all re- During “The Future of Design” workshop, the organiza- along the supply chain to monitor and remain accountable cycled materials. tion introduced tools for a better apparel industry and invited for their contributions to a sustainable industry. “First we did all of our solids, then recycled polys, then speakers from companies implementing sustainability ef- While Miller emphasizes the urgency for the apparel in- nylons and baby-stepped our way into it. We could afford forts. After learning about the Los Angeles apparel-man- dustry to adopt more beneficial practices, he recognizes that the 1 percent margin degradation here—and we funded it by ufacturing industry by working at his family’s business, Scott Miller is now the director of business development for SAC. Following the event, he reported that his organization was successful in showing attendees that collaboration is key to an improved, cleaner apparel industry. “We brought together brands, retailers, service provid- ers and academics in the same room to sit next to each oth- er—perhaps even competitors,” he said. “We drive them to design sustainable fashion on-site and show them that we are all together living on this planet. If we don’t come to- gether on the concepts related to sustainable design in the precompetitive space, we will all suffer the consequences.” Setting the tone for a shared mission, Ricardo Vazquez, who is the economic-policy manager for the City of Los Angeles, provided opening remarks. He felt his presence at the event was important to show the apparel industry that the city is interested in working with manufacturers and designers for a cleaner city. Susanna Schick From left Julie Brown, Rachel Lincoln, Elena Egorova and Jaclyn He said Mayor Eric Garcetti on April 29 will relaunch Allen the L.A. Sustainability Plan. “By 2050, our goal is to have zero waste to landfills. We are here to partner with the indus- try to plan how we can help get there,” he said. “We want this small steps can mean greater progress over time. moving more inventory—maybe earning the 1 percent over to be a partnership. That is going to be the first step. We’re “It’s possible to adopt incremental change and have the there,” she said. “It’s not about compromising the business. in the early stages of what our action plan will be with the ability to make sustainability decisions within the design It’s what are we going to leverage to support this area of our industry.” phase without conceivably increasing cost,” he explained. business?” Susanna Schick, a speaker and product development con- “It is absolutely a business and planetary imperative that our For Miller, the event’s presence in Los Angeles was im- sultant at Sustainable Fashion Los Angeles, encouraged industry embrace circular and regenerative production con- portant due to the city’s history and continued role as an guests to consider working with consumers to develop resale cepts immediately.” apparel-manufacturing capital. While he recognizes that initiatives such as the model followed by reseller The Re- The breakthrough regarding how to start small was some brands have been slow to adopt sustainable practices, alReal and buyback programs similar to the apparel brand reached during a panel discussion covering “Embedding he noted that the shift is inevitable. Patagonia. She outlined how a resale program could benefit Sustainability, Case Studies and Best Practices.” Moder- “It’s time to wake up to the call of the scientific commu- both the environment and business. ated by Julie Brown, SAC’s director of The Higg Index, the nity in particular to boldly address the sustainability impacts “Manufacturers who don’t have a takeback program are panel included Rachel Lincoln, director of sustainability and of our industry,” he said. “There are some companies that are missing out tremendously,” she said. “Not only do you get product operations for Prana; Elena Egorova, environmental truly stepping it up. I would not be shocked if these are the to resell your clothing and make money on it again but you researcher at Patagonia; and Jaclyn Allen, director of corpo- companies that come out of this ahead of others that are sitting

ATHLEISURE Sene Studio Takes Custom-made Suits in a New Direction Athleisure apparel has been at the forefront of a trend that pany’s products are made in China and another 20 percent in has swept across the country for the past several years. the United States. “Everything is custom made from scratch. People have long been talking about the goal of wearing We don’t produce inventory unless we have an order.” clothing that transitions from work to workout and vice versa. The company has been making a number of custom-made Now a Los Angeles company is making that more of a items since it launched. Products include men’s shirts, men’s reality. Sene Studio, founded three years ago by Ray Li, has and women’s suits, , outerwear jackets, coats, pants, come out with custom-made suits for men and women made jogger pants, tuxedos, and dresses. The FlexTech is the entirely of a performance fabric that comes from the same latest addition to the company’s lineup. Japanese mill used by Lululemon. Li decided to start a custom-apparel company because he The FlexTech suit is made of a synthetic fabric composed had a hard time finding clothes that fit his 5-foot, 10-inch of recycled polyester and polyester that has four-way stretch frame but proportionately short arms. Two years ago, he and is machine washable. Recently introduced as a limited opened a 1,700-square-foot store on La Brea Avenue where collection, Sene Studio is launching a Kickstarter campaign customers could walk in and get fitted or have alterations on May 1 to raise more money to buy a larger quantity of done by a tailor. fabric to lower the cost of the suit. But that is closing as the company sets up new fitting Currently, the FlexTech suit sells for $695, but the com- outposts at the Pacific Design Center and OneCulver via pany would like to lower that price by at least $100. “The WeWork. mill we are using has minimum fabric buys of 50 yards per But customers don’t have to drop by a physical location color. So, with economies of scale, we can purchase more to be custom fitted. The company has a smart-fit algorithm at a lower cost and pass on that savings to the customer,” on its website that extrapolates body data based on a few said Mark Zheng, who is Ray Li’s cousin and a partner in questions, such as what is your size for women and the company. what is your shirt size for men. The price of the suit includes a custom fit as well as al- Customers can input their body measurements, but Zheng terations once the suit is delivered in one to three weeks. said men tend to shy away from doing this while women During the two-week-long Kickstarter campaign, a suit understand that exact body measurements mean a better- bought in the first 24 hours can be acquired for $415. During fitting garment. “Women understand the process and why it the second day of the campaign, the price goes up to $425 is needed,” Zheng said. and then up to $475. Most of the company’s customers tend to range in age from “The core idea of the company is that clothing should be the mid-30s to mid-50s, and the company’s bestselling cat- Men’s FlexTech Suit Women’s FlexTech Suit made for every individual person,” Zheng said, noting the de- egory is men’s shirts, which go for $125 to $145. For more sign comes from Los Angeles while 80 percent of the com- information, go to www.senestudio.com.—Deborah Belgum

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THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR TRADE SHOW REPORT 74 YEARS Small Apparel Boutiques THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR Even as Trends Shift, FINANCE Stay in the Game With LA Majors Market Activewear and Athleisure THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR Late Tax Refunds Hands-On Owners Makes Some Changes Remain Relevant to Fashion Affect Retailers Counting By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor By Andrew Asch Retail Editor By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor , which caters to ju- on a Shopping Boost The secret sauce for store owners to be successful is often LA Majors Market California As utilitarian looks and retro-style streetwear gain momen- This season, the very simple—all they have to do is be on-site to give a sense tum, some in the fashion industry are declaring the end of ac- By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor of personality to the outpost and provide personalized service niors and, underwent department-store a few changes. buyers at the tivewear and athleisure. Looking back through activewear’s , a Market Center history, from the bodysuit–and–leg warmer days of the The U.S. economy is expected to cruise along at a moder- to make clients feel special. Fashion Link Part of the front lobby was turned into a cozy living-room to the baggy basketball shorts of the 1990s and the track suits ate speed this year after whizzing past the speed limit last “When the owner is present, it makes a difference for their year. sales,” said Peter Jacobson, president of space surrounded by wooden walls and faux greenery to give it of the early 2000s, it’s clear that activewear doesn’t leave fash- a lived-in look. A coffee bar was open and free boxed lunches ion—it simply evolves over time. One major change this year are income taxes and whether distributor of European, the luxury company’s women’s sales fashion branch, brands, headquar- and . He has noticed that were served to buyers who could enjoy their food at high tables Examining the evolution of activewear andAdidas its athleisure, who re- people are paying more or less under the Trump adminis- Creative Concepts The New Mart tration’s revised tax code, implemented under the Tax Code tered in Los Angeles’ with stools. sibling, it is apparent that this category of apparel has become Re- There was also a handful of buyer lounges where electronic and Jobs Act of 2017. This bill eliminated personal exemp- as businesses expand and store owners aren’t on-site, sales a mainstay of fashion. Just ask Beyoncé and devices could be recharged, and there were private buyer meet- cently announced they were partnering to relaunch Knowles- tions and certain itemized deductions but doubled the stan- decline. Ivy Park brand of athleisure apparel. dard deduction and adjusted tax brackets. State and local tax Paula Rosenblum, managing in Miami, partner grew upand watching co-founder her offather ing areas to make doing business more intimate and convenient. Carter’s For this edition of LA Majors Market, which ran April 1–3, deductions were capped at $10,000 a year. tail Systems Research This is the first year the full effect of the revision is be- Sam’s, the family’s apparel store, on New York’s Long all temporary showrooms were concentrated on the 13th floor manage Trend-to-lifestyle transition ing felt by individuals, who were wondering whether they Island. “When something new comes in, you can let yourpage cus- 3 to make it easier for buyers to connect with vendors. CMC of- ➥ Retailers For the latter half of 2019, forecasters note that fashions are would be receiving a bigger refund or paying more in taxes tomer know, even if it’s just with a postcard or an email.” ficials said there were 101 vendors exhibiting➥ LA in Majors the temporary page 9 ➥ Athleisure page 3 Tax Policy Center pre- space, which was about even with last year’s show. Vendors comfortable but stylish in a fun way. Many of the characteristics than before. So far, the results are mixed. The dicted that 82 percent of➥ middle-class Quarterly Economic workers (describedReport page as 3 A Squad of Female INDUSTRY FOCUS: FINANCE Byer California Cited for Executives Takes Over Evading Customs Duties by Aloha Brand Reyn http://www.apparelnews.net/classifieds/print-preview/8231/ How Apparel Companies 1/1 Undervaluing Garments at Manhattan Beachwear has agreed to Spooner Charts New Can Deal With a Slowing By Deborah Belgum Executive EditorByer California By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor After years of litigation, Waters in Los Angeles Inside the two-story industrial office building that houses Economy pay $325,000 in a civil fraud lawsuit that alleges the de- Manhattan Beachwear operations in Cypress, Cal- cades-old San Francisco clothing company for five years the vast By Andrew Asch Retail Editor brand aimed to if., a mini revolution is going on. By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor undervalued the cost of its merchandise coming through Reyn Spooner In the last few months, the executive suites of one of the customs, paying lower duties than normal. The formula for doing business is slowly changing this year. The case came to light when a whistle-blower, identi-Queen Since the late 1950s, the largest swimwear manufacturers in the United States have While interest rates were rising at a steady pace last year, it’s fied as Michael Krigstein, told federal officials that Byer be an Aloha shirt that defied stereotypes. been occupied by a phalanx of female managers and direc- It wasn’t entirely about luaus and bonfires at the beach. tors who are running the swimwear company after it was a different story this year. The Federal Reserve hasn’t raised California reportedly on had a DDP, been or receiving delivered goods duty-paid from basis, benchmark interest rates in 2019 and may even lower them, Apparel NY Inc. Rather, it was the Aloha shirt of the downtown Honolulu helmed for years by men. businessman. Reyn Spooner represented a sense of ease and In the top spot is Lindsay Shumlas, who became the com- which is good news for apparel manufacturers and retailers. meaning that Queen Apparel took care of filing the customs Meanwhile, the U.S. economy is expected to cool off this sophistication. pany’s chief executive officer last September after holding forms and delivering the goods to Byer California. But federal prosecutors maintained in a lawsuit filed The brand’s Hawaii-based artists made prints of the is- the dual positions of chief financial officer and chief operat- year and in 2020 as economies around the world slow down Max- and a trade dispute with China is still in the works. in the Southern District of New York that Byer knew that lands’ unique plants and ocean scenes, which were repro- ing officer. The Lab, duced on Spooner cloth, a reverse-print fabric that gave the The company has moreLa than Blanca a dozen, labels, which in- With this scenario, we asked financial experts this ques- Queen Apparel was undervaluing Byer’s garments in cus- as well as licensed , tion: With U.S. interest rates remaining stable amidst a slowing toms forms submitted between 2009 and 2013 to Customs shirt a unique, gently faded look. clude proprietary labels and 24th & Ocean , Nanette Lepore For decades, Reyn Spooner cultivated the reputation as ine of Hollywood economy, what financial advice do you have for apparel manu- and Border Patrol inspectors but Byer continued to do busi- Lauren Ralph Lauren ➥ Byer page 3 the go-to company for the AlohaNordstrom shirt. ,It and, was until sold recently, at the it labels including ➥ Manhattan Beachwear page 8 facturers when it comes to borrowing money➥ and Finance planning page for3 ness with Queen anyway. the future? “Byer chose to continue sending work orders to Queen high-end department store made shirts for Trader Joe’s➥ employees. Reyn Spooner page 6 Reyn Spooner shirts have also appeared in the film “The

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