PRSRT STD U.S. POSTAGE P.O. Box 196710 PAID Anchorage, AK 99519-6710 State of NorthtoAlaska.com

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it should be! Cover: GrizzlyBear, Khutzeymateen Grizzly BearSanctuary(KellyFunk, Tourism BC)

is not on your bucket list, F or more route options, side trips, information, photos, Inside Cover: BanffNational Park(PaulZizka, Travel Alberta) Back Cover:(Yukon Government) Table of Contents The Ultimate Road Trip 2

Start Planning 10

Rocky Mountain Route 14

Gold Rush Route 26

Inside Passage Route 38

Planning Resources 49

Glacier Express, Chugach National Forest (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska) Trip Planning Distances MILEAGE CHART Anchorag e Calgar y Fairbanks Haines Homer Prince Rupert Seward Skagway Tok Valdez

Anchorage 2160 515 1608 1975 358 775 226 1605 2435 126 832 328 304 2288 724 Anchorage 2160 1747 552 185 2038 1687 2386 950 738 2286 1544 1832 2086 605 1436 Calgary Dawson City 515 1747 1195 1562 393 578 741 1192 2022 641 435 187 441 1915 327 Dawson City Dawson Creek 1608 552 1195 367 1486 1135 1834 706 827 1734 992 1280 1534 728 884 Dawson Creek Edmonton 1975 185 1562 367 1853 1502 2201 906 923 2101 1359 1647 1901 720 1251 Edmonton Let the good times roll... Alaska) of State Hage, (Matt Center Copper Fairbanks 358 2038 393 1486 1853 653 584 1483 2313 484 710 206 364 2172 602 Fairbanks Haines 775 1687 578 1135 1502 653 1001 1132 1962 901 359 447 701 1650 251 Haines Homer 226 2386 741 1834 2201 584 1001 1831 2661 173 1058 554 530 2509 950 Homer Prince Rupert 1605 950 1192 706 906 1483 1132 1831 1033 1731 989 1277 1531 934 881 Prince Rupert Seattle 2435 738 2022 827 923 2313 1962 2661 1033 2561 1819 2107 2361 141 1904 Seattle Legend Seward 126 2286 641 1734 2101 484 901 173 1731 2561 958 454 430 2415 850 Seward Rocky Mountain Route Skagway 832 1544 435 992 1359 710 359 1058 989 1819 958 504 758 1627 108 Skagway Tok 328 1832 187 1280 1647 206 447 554 1277 2107 454 504 254 1970 396 Tok Valdez 304 2086 441 1534 1901 364 701 530 1531 2361 430 758 254 2237 650 Valdez Gold Rush Route Vancouver 2288 605 1915 728 720 2172 1650 2509 934 141 2415 1627 1970 2237 1587 Vancouver Whitehorse 724 1436 327 884 1251 602 251 950 881 1904 850 108 396 650 1587 Whitehorse

Inside Passage Route © 2013 The MILEPOST/Morris Communications (www.themilepost.com), used with permission. 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers

NorthToAlaska.com | 1 The Ultimate Road Trip

Nothing satisfies the need for freedom and the desire to chart your own course like taking off on a grand adventure, stopping whenever and wherever you want, sharing stories and making new ones while on the road.

In the north, vast expanses of highway unwind to the horizon, surrounded by wilderness so big, so wild it will take your breath away. We call it the Ultimate North American Road Trip, and we think you’ll agree.

In one journey, you will experience some of the most dramatic national, state and provincial parks in the United States and , inhabited by critters you’ve maybe only seen in the media. Moose, caribou, bears, wolves, bald eagles, whales and many other species make their homes in the north country, and you’ll see most – if not all – of them along the way.

This trip is yours for the taking.

Picture PERFECT! " That was the most wonderful Lions Head, (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska) trip we've taken, and we want to do it again." Annette S. – via Facebook Writing on Stone Provincial Park 2 | | The The Ultimate Ultimate Road Road Trip Trip (Sabrina Hill, Travel Alberta) NorthToAlaska.com | 3 " Take your time & do not hurry as then you miss things. Relax."

Gladys S. – via Facebook Homer (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska) of State DeYoung, (Michael Homer

The mighty Yukon!

View of Dawson City from the Dome (R Hartmier, Yukon Government)

Not just places; People

Amidst the millions of acres of wilderness, you’ll find colorful towns and villages populated by hearty souls with the creativity and spunk it takes to carve a life and a living out of the wilderness and the soul to appreciate it. Their artistic endeavors, indigenous cultures and pioneer stories will add depth to your journey and a few belly laughs to your morning pancakes, no doubt. To top it off, your fellow travelers – the people you meet in the campgrounds, roadhouses, lodges and restaurants along the way – will become your co-conspirators, witnessing the natural marvels and cultural oddities and sharing their own stories.

Sharing stories and making new ones. Stone Mountain Provincial Park 4 4 | | The The Ultimate Ultimate Road Road Trip Trip (Albert Normandin, Tourism BC) NorthToAlaska.com | 5 Easy going

The roads are paved and well maintained, suitable for RVs, cars and motorcycles, and facilities and services are ample. Whether you travel by RV and bring your accommodations with you, stop for the night at rustic lodges, hotels, motels or bed-and-breakfast inns, pitch a tent in a public or private campground or some combination of the above, you’ll find plenty of options to meet your needs.

The choice is yours!

Great lunch stop! Government) Yukon Kennedy, (J Park National

"There are many beautiful places along that trip. Went on that road in winter and summer and it is Ridin' incredible in either.” Dorothy W. – via Facebook

Gakona River (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska) Bed-and-breakfast, Haines Junction 6 6 | | The The Ultimate Ultimate Road Road Trip Trip (J Kennedy, Yukon Government) NorthToAlaska.com | 7 "I have done three different routes Find Your Way Although there are countless side trips and and driven it five times and I love them alternate routes to enrich your journey, this book simplifies the planning by describing all. It is such a wonderful experience three main routes – the Gold Rush Route, the Rocky Mountain Route, and the Inside Passage that not everyone gets to do!” Route. Your round-trip adventure can easily Sue E. – via Facebook incorporate elements of all three depending on your interests (you can find many more route options online at NorthtoAlaska.com). Want to follow the trail of hopeful prospectors seeking their fortunes? Experience the rich culture and artistic traditions of the indigenous peoples of the north? Visit as many national and provincial parks as possible?

Whatever your pleasure, now is the time. The lure of the north is as strong today as it was when gold was first discovered in the Klondike in 1896, and there are still plenty of riches left to enjoy.

Join us in Alaska and Canada this year.

A perfect evening...

Cold Lake (Travel Alberta/Roth & Ramberg)

Seward Highway 8 8 | | The The Ultimate Ultimate Road Road Trip Trip (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska) NorthToAlaska.comNorthToAlaska.com | | 9 9 Lake Louise (Paul Zizka, Travel Alberta)

What Time is it? DUI). However, U.S. citizens may secure and Yukon are in the same permission to enter by applying for time zone as the U.S. West Coast (Pacific approval of rehabilitation. Learn time). Alaska is an hour earlier, and Alberta more about admissibility at is an hour later. www.canadainternational.gc.ca.

Crossing the Border To enter Canada, agents may All travelers must have a passport, ask you how much money you are carrying. passport card, enhanced driver’s The amount of money you will need can license/identification card or trusted vary with the circumstances of the visit, traveler program card (Global Entry, how long you will stay and whether you will NEXUS, SENTRI or FAST) when crossing stay in a hotel or with friends or relatives. the U.S./Canada borders. Children under If you are entering or leaving Canada with age 16 can show an original or copy of a more than $10,000 cash, you must report it birth certificate, a Consular Report of Birth to customs. Abroad, a Naturalization Certificate or a Canadian Citizenship Card. Check these Firearms websites before traveling: American adults (18+) may take non- www.cbp.gov and www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca. prohibited firearms (rifles and shotguns) into Canada for lawful purposes. Firearms Start Planning! Here are the Basics Persons under 18 who are not accompanied must be declared on a special form and a by both parents must carry a notarized fee of $25 Canadian is charged. Depending What to Expect on the Road it will take you to travel from one to the letter from their legal guardian and/or the on the model, handguns are either banned Whichever route you take, you will next. If you prefer to sleep under the stars, absent parent granting permission for the or require additional paperwork. For more eventually end up on the , there are camping areas at both private and child to travel into Canada. information, call 1-800-731-4000 or visit once known as the “Alcan.” All major public locations, many of which offer full- www.cfc-cafc.gc.ca. Declaration forms may highways through Alaska and Canada are service RV sites. Reservations are accepted Be prepared to show proof of insurance and be downloaded online, and it is a good idea well maintained. However, some sections at most and are recommended. vehicle registration or rental papers. to fill them out before you reach the border. are narrow and winding, particularly those U.S. customs officials will want to see traversing high mountain passes. The best What to Pack Dogs and cats may be transported through that paperwork on the way back into the time to travel is from mid-May to early Dressing appropriately can be a challenge Canada as long as you have proof of current U.S. More information can be found at the September because more facilities are in this region because the weather changes rabies vaccination. A health certificate is Customs and Border Patrol website, open for business, more wildlife is out and quickly. In addition, average temperatures also recommended. help.cbp.gov. there is less chance of inclement weather. vary widely. Generally, expect warm days and cool nights during spring and summer. You may not be able to enter Canada if The Customs site also has information for Are We There Yet? But when you’re on the move, it is possible you have a criminal record (this includes Canadians wishing to bring guns into the How long it will take to complete the trip to encounter temperatures as high as depends on you. While it’s possible to 95°F (35°C) and as low as 35°F (2°C) within make the drive in five days we recommend the same 24 hours. The solution? Layering. scheduling a week to 10 days each way. Wear clothes that can be removed or With all there is to see and do, you could added as required. And don’t forget to easily take longer. bring rain gear!

Services Conversions There are plenty of gas stations, In Canada, fuel is sold by the liter; multiply restaurants and accommodations along the the cost by a little less than four (3.785) to way, approximately 25-50 miles (40-80 km) get the price per U.S. Gallon. apart. While the majority are open year- round, some do close during the winter, so Canada also has its own currency which it is important to plan accordingly. has been close to par with the U.S. dollar in recent years. A quick Internet search Places to Stay will give you the latest exchange rate. Keep There are many hotels, motels and lodges, in mind that Canadian money includes particularly in larger cities and towns. But not only paper bank notes but also coins, if you are paying for your accommodations, known as “loonies” and “toonies,” worth it is advisable to make reservations and to $1 and $2 respectively. know exactly where each is and how long Whistler Village (JF Bergeron, Tourism BC)

10 | The Ultimate Road Trip NorthToAlaska.com | 11 Island Lake (Sabrina Hill, Travel Alberta)

A bit of history! St. Andrews Church, Bennett Lake (D Crowe, Yukon Government)

U.S. to go hunting. They must fill out a form Cell Service Road condition updates and information about the ahead of time and get a hunting license for Cell service can be nonexistent or Alaska Highway are available at the following sources: the state where they are going. intermittent in many remote areas through which the routes pass, although Yukon: www.yukon511.ca 1-877-456-7623 In Alaska, firearms may be carried for in population centers, you can expect B.C.: www.drivebc.ca 1-800-550-4997 personal protection and for hunting with good service. Before you travel, check Alberta: www.511.alberta.ca dial 511 (from within Alberta) or the appropriate state license and tags. with your phone company about roaming 1-855-391-9743 (from outside Alberta) A good resource is the Alaska Department or international data plans to avoid Alaska: http://511.alaska.gov dial 511 (from within Alaska only) of Fish and Game website, unexpected overages. www.adfg.alaska.gov. Rules of the Road Unloaded rifles and shotguns may be sent Buckle up. Seat belts are required by law in Online via USPS with a federal firearms license. both Alaska and Canada. Check with your local post office for details. Get more great tips, stories, photos and maps online! Handguns can be sent via a contract carrier In Alaska, all children under the age of 4, to a licensed dealer. The Bureau of Alcohol, regardless of weight, must be in a federally The North to Alaska Facebook page, at Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives has more approved child safety seat. In Canada, all Facebook.com/travelnorthtoAlaska, information at www.atf.gov. At the home children under the age of 8 or children features photos and current information from page, search for “shipping handguns FAQ.” weighing less than 80 lbs. (36 kg) must be the road and communities along the way, plus in safety seats. the comments and feedback of fellow travelers. Traveling Safe As with any kind of travel, being prepared Check rules regarding use of cell phones is important. Make sure you have a general while driving – each province/state has its emergency kit with you, and check your own regulations. car jack, jumper cables and other auto- repair supplies to make sure everything is Drivers must carry a valid driver’s license At NorthtoAlaska.com, you’ll find expanded functioning properly. and proof of insurance. route information, maps and links to resources like Parks Canada, the , state and If you decide to travel in early spring or Many areas require headlights to be on at provincial parks and regional tourism organizations. late fall, a set of snow tires is not a bad all times. Regardless, when driving on the idea. Snow during these seasons is not highway, it’s a very good idea to keep your uncommon and can make for challenging headlights on day and night. road conditions.

12 | The Ultimate Road Trip NorthToAlaska.com | 13 Rocky Mountain Route

"That was the most wonderful trip we’ve ever taken. Want to do it again.” Annette — Tampa, FL

The Rocky Mountain Route from Alberta to Alaska via Must See Yukon and the Alaska Highway offers visitors a stretch of road that travels through some of the world’s most wildly beautiful areas, filled with jaw- Rockies National Parks 17 dropping scenery, wildlife sightings galore and historic communities that Mile 0 Alaska Highway 18 hold proudly to their frontier roots.

Liard River Hot Springs 20 The route follows an extension of the Rocky Mountains known as the 22 North American Cordillera, which sets the stage for what drivers will see and experience the entire way from Coutts, Alberta to Homer, Alaska. Matanuska Glacier 23 While the Rockies officially end at the in British Columbia, Homer Spit 25 the cordillera continues all the way through Yukon and Alaska. The natural wealth and dramatic landscapes of this region led to its protection in a series of national, provincial and state parks through which you Lake Louise, Banff National Park (Paul Zizka, Travel Alberta) will travel.

14 | Rocky Mountain Route NorthToAlaska.com | 15 Royal Tyrrell Museum, Drumheller (Travel Alberta) Athabasca Glacier, Jasper National Park (Brewster Travel Canada)

Time Travel From , head west on the capped peaks, ancient glaciers, dense Upon crossing the Montana-Alberta , then north on the forests, waterfalls spilling down the border at the small town of Coutts, you Cowboy Trail (Highway 22) through the DETOUR mountainsides, rushing rivers and are immediately surrounded by Alberta’s high ranch country of the foothills. Save turquoise glacial lakes. And wildlife galore version of the Great Plains. Visit Writing- your appetite for this leg of the journey – watch for moose, elk, caribou, mule and On-Stone Provincial Park in the Milk River – the Cowboy Trail is so named for the Cowboy up in Calgary white-tailed deer, mountain goats, bighorn Valley to see ’s largest western ranch lifestyle of the region, If you’re coming through Alberta sheep, black and grizzly bear and the concentration of aboriginal rock art – and there’s plenty of good eating in the in July, you’ll want to plan a side elusive mountain lions and wolverines. petroglyphs and pictographs – in a place towns along the way. In Longview, grab trip to Calgary, international sacred to the Blackfoot for 8,000 years. a slice of pie at Canadian country music gateway city and home to the There are literally thousands of hiking trails To commemorate your stop in Milk River, legend Ian Tyson’s Navajo Mug restaurant famed Calgary Stampede, an – good for walking, cycling, and horseback take a photo with one of Canada’s 10 and pick up jerky at the Longview Jerky annual 10-day whoop-up that’s riding – and waterways for canoeing, strangest attractions (at least according shop. In Black Diamond, tour the art been celebrating Alberta’s fishing and whitewater rafting. There to MSN Travel Canada) in front of the 36- galleries and enjoy lunch in an authentic western heritage for more than are thousands of campsites as well, but foot Tyrannosaurus Rex outside the Milk 1950s-style diner complete with a retro 100 years. While in town, take in advance reservations are recommended, River Travel Information Centre. Jump candy store. In Cochrane, be sure to grab Heritage Park Historical Village, given the popularity of both parks. back millions of years at the Devil’s Coulee a cone at MacKay’s Ice Cream and enjoy it Fort Calgary and the Glenbow Dinosaur & Heritage Museum in the town while walking the footpaths that line the Museum, all of which capture In the midst of this pristine beauty are the of Warner and take a tour to hunt for Bow River as it passes through town. At the area’s storied past. Immerse townsites of Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper, dinosaur eggs. Cochrane, head west toward Canmore and yourself in the history of the Wild where you will find all the amenities, with Banff National Park. West, from buffalo hunting to much to see and do including natural hot The Wild West bootlegging and beyond. springs, gondola rides, historic sites and From Warner head north to , museums, iconic hotels and mountain the first major city you will encounter en lodges, fine dining and plenty of shopping route – a great place to refuel and relax in National Parks for local treasures. All are hubs for year any of the many parks along the banks of Banff and Jasper national parks are part round outdoor adventures with gear for the serpentine Old Man River. Then swing of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks rent and guided tours at hand. west to the town of Fort Macleod, home UNESCO World Heritage Site. Banff is of the Fort Museum of the North West the birthplace of Canada’s national parks The Icefields Parkway Mounted Police, who founded a post here to system, established in 1885. Covering 2,564 Billed by National Geographic as one of establish law and order, taming the riotous square miles (6,641 square km), it is one the most scenic drives in the world, the whiskey and gun trade. Just 11 miles (18 of the most well known parks in the world. Icefields Parkway connects both parks from km) north and west, Head-Smashed-In It shares its northern border with Jasper, Lake Louise to the town of Jasper. Along Buffalo Jump is a UNESCO World Heritage the largest of Canada’s mountain parks at its 144-mile (230-km) length, you will see Site that interprets 6,000 years of buffalo- a staggering 4,335 square miles (11,228 more than 100 glaciers from the road and hunting practices of the Plains People. The square km). some of the tallest peaks in the Rockies. site is one of the oldest, largest and best There are many places where you can pull preserved of its kind in the world. Both parks showcase the unparalleled over and follow a hiking trail for even more Bring it on! spectacular views. Stampede Grounds, Calgary (Canadian Tourism Commission) Tourism (Canadian Calgary Grounds, Stampede beauty of the Rockies – towering snow-

16 | Rocky Mountain Route NorthToAlaska.com | 17 Construction began in March of 1942 “Drunken Forest,” which consists of small, and the 1,700-mile (2,720-km) highway gnarled black spruce growing at odd angles was completed in October of the same in unstable, clay-based soil. This section of year. Over the years, improvements and road is also prime moose-spotting territory straightening projects have shortened it – the giant ungulates enjoy slurping tender to 1,387 miles (2,219 km), but either way, grasses out of the many bogs and lakes. covering that distance in just 10 months is one of the most stunning construction feats If you don’t spot a moose on the road, ever. The highway opened to civilians in you’ll surely want to snap a picture with the 1948, and was then known as the Alcan, or albino moose on display at the Fort Nelson Alaska-Canada Highway. This history, along Heritage Museum on your way through with the scenery, combine to make the town. This museum is a must-stop for its Alaska Highway one of the highlights of the unusual and eclectic collections. In addition Ultimate North American Road Trip. to the taxidermy, the museum features a mannequin in a moose-hide bikini and an Dawson Creek marked the northern end of impressive collection of antique cars and Jones Beach, Lake Isle (George Simhoni, Travel Alberta) the railroad back in the 1940s, which made highway construction equipment. it a perfect headquarters for the southern end of the massive project, and since then You’ll crest Sunwapta Pass, the highest the town has been inextricably linked to the point on the Parkway, before descending Alaska Highway. For a quick look at original DETOUR into Jasper National Park at the toe of highway construction, consider making the the Athabasca Glacier. Learn about the 11-mile (18-km) jaunt west on Highway 97 vast Columbia Icefield at the visitor center to the Bridge, the only and then book a guided tour in a giant Ice EDMONTON, original timber bridge that remains on the Explorer that will take you up onto the If you’re interested in a quicker highway today. route to Grande Prairie and on Athabasca Glacier. to Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway, North of the 58th Parallel The famed Mile 0 – consider heading north from The 58th parallel, an invisible latitudinal Start of the Alaska Highway Calgary to Grande Prairie via line on the globe, has come to denote the The trek from Jasper to Dawson Creek will Edmonton. Check out the world- far north in countries and regions around take about a day, but once you’re there, famous West Edmonton Mall, the globe. As you venture north of Dawson you’ve arrived! Dawson Creek is the historic the largest in North America, Creek, you will cross this invisible line Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway, and the or join in on one of the many and truly find yourself in the north. In the town rolls out the red carpet for travelers events happening year-round in coming miles, you’ll start getting glimpses preparing for the journey. It’s a great place “Canada’s Festival City.” of what will become familiar scenery as to spend the night, visit the local museums The Famous Mile 0 you continue north, including the famous and familiarize yourself with the journey ahead – particularly at the Alaska Highway Mile 0, Dawson Creek (Tourism BC) House. Located right next to the Mile 0 signpost in downtown Dawson Creek, the Alaska Highway House tells the story of the highway’s construction through interpretive models, maps, photographs and film.

So just what is that story, anyway? In many ways it’s a very short story: when the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor in December of 1941, the Alaska Highway went from an idea being considered by the Canadian and U.S. governments to an immediate necessity. The U.S. was intent on finding a way to move military equipment and personnel overland to Alaska’s strategic location on the Pacific A day at the mall Ocean to prevent future invasions or

attacks like the one at Pearl Harbor. West Edmonton Mall (Travel Alberta) (Travel Mall Edmonton West Moraine Lake, Banff National Park (Paul Zizka, Travel Alberta)

18 | Rocky Mountain Route NorthToAlaska.com | 19 open wilderness populated by far more caribou, moose, bears, sheep and wolves than humans; fascinating and gold rush history; natural phenomena like the northern lights and the summer’s midnight sun; and countless mountains still waiting for their first ascents.

Just a short drive beyond Watson Lake, you’ll cross the Continental Divide, which divides two of the largest drainage systems in North America, the and Mackenzie River watersheds. Here, they can be observed flowing in different directions. Interesting towns Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park (BC Parks) From the Alaska Highway, you’ll soon start seeing the numerous lakes and rivers that

form the headwaters of the Yukon River. Whitehorse (JF Bergeron, Yukon Government) Continue to keep your eyes peeled for particularly after a long day on the road. In Teslin, be sure to check out the Teslin wildlife as you mosey up the road. Stone Get there early if you want to camp in any Heritage Centre, which tells the skeleton and other artifacts, while the Mountain and the nearby provincial park of the park’s 53 campsites, though – spots story of the Teslin Tlingit people through Kwanlin Dün Cultural Centre offers visitors offer a good chance of spotting Stone sheep fill up early in the day. A boardwalk leads carved totem poles, ornamental clan an opportunity to experience the cultural picking their way among the tiny ledges through a muskeg forest to changing regalia and other interpretive displays. and artistic traditions of the local Kwanlin and outcroppings. Just north of Stone houses and the outdoor pools. The area has Dün First Nations. Whitehorse’s accessible Mountain, Provincial Park been called the “Tropical Valley” because Whitehorse: Yukon’s capital city wilderness also makes it the perfect base offers excellent fishing and a breathtaking of the way the temperature of the springs The city of Whitehorse was born during for a half- or full-day excursion. You’ll be public camping spot along the long, jade- influences the local ecology, and some 14 the , and although the charmed by the surprising sophistication green lake. species of orchids grow near the springs. site had long been a First Nations fishing of such an isolated little city and by the site, its modern character is unmistakably warmth and humor of the locals. Be sure to The hot springs at Liard River are without Watson Lake and the Signpost Forest linked to its role as a transportation hub grab a beer at the Yukon Brewing Co. and a question one of the most popular stops on You’ve already seen the “Drunken Forest,” and supply center during the gold rush. snack at one of the excellent local bakeries the Alaska Highway, and for good reason. but what the heck is a signpost forest? There’s a lot more to Whitehorse than and restaurants. On the way out of town, Soaking in one of the two natural outdoor After thoroughly soaking your bones at its past, though: the Yukon Beringia consider a stop at Takhini Hot Springs for a pools under a starlit sky is magical, Liard River Hot Springs, you’ll soon reach Interpretive Centre tells the story of the last soak in the outdoor pool. the border with Yukon and the town of ice age with a full-size woolly mammoth Watson Lake, which was an important construction camp for the Alaska Highway. A U.S. Army soldier started the Watson Lake Signpost Forest in 1942, and ever since, travelers have been adding signs from their hometowns to the sprawling outdoor “forest.” Today, nearly 61,000 signs from all over the world are on display. The adjacent Alaska Highway Interpretive Centre features photos of highway construction. Travel counselors at the visitor information center will help you make the most of your time in the Yukon and provide the latest information and interesting tips.

Yukon ho! The Yukon has inspired more than a few Yukon River Steamer Government) (Yukon Whitehorse Klondike, S.S. writers and poets over the years to sing its praises, and you’ll soon see why: wide- Frantic Follies, Whitehorse (Yukon Government)

20 | Rocky Mountain Route NorthToAlaska.com | 21 Kluane National Park (Paddy Palin/Nathan Hendry, Yukon Government)

Kluane National Park and Reserve Before leaving town, commemorate your Mountains. If you like to fish, consider the Wrangell Mountains as you traverse Heading west, the next major destination visit with a photo in front of the Haines stopping at one of the several lakeside the northern border of the largest national is Kluane National Park and Reserve, Junction Village Monument, or “the campgrounds in the park. Here, trout reach park in the United States – Wrangell-St. just west of Haines Junction. The Kluane muffin,” as Yukoners jokingly call it due epic proportions while bison graze nearby. Elias National Park. The park is accessible National Park and Haines Junction visitor to its unusual shape. The monument sits via the Nabesna Road near the small town centers are open daily and offer information at the corner where the Alaska Highway Beaver Creek is the last stop before you of Slana. At Glennallen, fuel up and about camping, hiking, boating and other intersects with the main village road and reach the Canada-U.S. border and your prepare for a stunning trek across recreation. In the same building, the Da Ku features sculptures of ultimate destination: Alaska! Southcentral Alaska. Cultural Centre provides information on local wildlife. the Champagne and First Nations. Alaska: The Last Frontier A landscape carved by glaciers Once you’re geared up, get ready to be You made it! Crossing the border into Heading southwest along the Glenn dumbstruck as you approach Kluane Lake, Alaska may in some ways feel like the Highway, the black-spruce forest, tundra the largest lake in the Yukon. Ringed by end of the journey, but tons of excitement and lake country near Glennallen give rugged, windswept mountains and tinged still lies ahead. The first community you’ll way to the jagged peaks of the Chugach a deep blue, the lake is a great spot for encounter is Tok, which is the highway Mountains to the south. Several scenic fishing and boating. Camping is available gateway to the rest of the state. Be sure viewpoints along the highway provide along the park, and many visitors take to stop in at the Tok Mainstreet Visitor’s stunning photo opportunities, but perhaps advantage of flightseeing tours to get a Center and browse the selection of the most scenic area on the highway is at bird’s-eye view of Canada’s highest peak, brochures and pamphlets from all over the Matanuska Glacier, which tumbles out of Mount Logan, as well as the largest state and begin plotting all the adventures the mountains just shy of the highway. As non-polar ice field in the world. The you’ll have in the coming days. While you’re you approach the glacier, Sheep Mountain communities of and at the visitor’s center, be sure to pick up juts skyward, its sharp, colorful peak dotted are located along the a copy of the brochure called “Fishing in with bright white Dall sheep. You will then highway, which traces the lake’s southern the Upper ” for a guide to the come face-to-face with the imposing Lions edge. The small but fascinating Kluane best places to drop a line in the area. Tok is Head Mountain, a formerly volcanic cone Museum of Natural History in Burwash known for its excellent fishing. that sits right alongside the highway. Landing is definitely worth a stop. About 30 miles (48 km) past Burwash, a viewpoint of From Tok, you’ll head west toward A few miles farther is a turnoff where Plenty to see the Icefields Ranges provides an excellent Glennallen via what’s known as the “Tok visitors can walk right up to the Matanuska Beringia Centre, Whitehorse (Yukon Government) (Yukon Whitehorse Centre, Beringia vantage on nine of the 16 highest peaks Cutoff.” Between Tok and Glennallen, Glacier, and guided treks are available on in Canada, which are part of the St. Elias you’ll be treated to spectacular views of the ice itself. Camping is available at nearby

22 | Rocky Mountain Route NorthToAlaska.com | 23 Arm, which is characterized by the jagged coastal mountains and extreme tides that reveal wide swaths of tidal flats. The highway was carved out of the mountains on the eastern side of the arm, and on the high cliff walls directly above the highway, mountain goats are frequently spotted picking their way along impossibly narrow cliffs. In late summer, beluga whales can be seen chasing silver salmon in the waters of Turnagain Arm. For one of the best views of the Arm, turn off the highway at the relaxed little ski town of Girdwood, and take the tram to the top of Mount Alyeska at Alaska’s largest alpine ski resort. The road continues south and curves Charming moments around the end of Turnagain Arm before climbing into the Kenai Mountains. Continue west at the intersection with Kachemak Bay, Kenai Peninsula (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska) the Sterling Highway to the famous Kenai Peninsula, Alaska’s fishing and outdoors mecca and a favorite place for locals to other species, leading to Homer’s tongue- Matanuska Glacier (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska) spend summer weekends. in-cheek designation as “a drinking town with a fishing problem.” Homer is one of trees and brush by hand. Today many of Welcome to the Kenai Alaska’s most artistic communities, and those same families are still in the area In summer, the Kenai Peninsula hums several local galleries line Homer’s main and many farms remain, providing an with activity. The legendary annual sockeye drag, Pioneer Avenue. For a truly unique unusual visual juxtaposition of hay fields, and king salmon runs bring thousands experience, consider taking a ferry ride farmland and bright red barns backing up of anglers to the area. Dozens of guides across the bay to nearby Halibut Cove for to towering mountains. The local Colony and charter operators are available to dinner and a visit to the community that has House Museum is a great place to get a help visitors land monstrous fish – no fish no roads. Houses are built onto the slopes taste for life in the colony. Speaking of tales required! Communities like Cooper of a small island in the bay and connected tastes, be sure to stop at a local farmer’s Landing, Sterling, Kenai and Soldotna are by boardwalks. The locals get around market or look for locally grown produce on all great places to connect with a guide, in their boats – there’s even a boat-in restaurant menus – Alaska’s near-constant spend the night and eat freshly prepared espresso stand! summer daylight produces ideal growing local seafood. If fishing isn’t your bag, One Serious cabbage! the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge offers

Alaska State Fair, Palmer (Matt Hage, State of Alaska) of State Hage, (Matt Palmer Fair, State Alaska conditions and delicious veggies. camping and hiking options. The peninsula Heading south, you’ll soon reach the narrows as you approach the town of Matanuska Glacier State Recreation Site. outskirts of Anchorage, Alaska’s largest Homer, a charming little town on the As you continue down the road, you’ll be city. For more on Anchorage, see page 37. shores of Kachemak Bay. following the powerful Matanuska River, which flows from the glacier between the Turnagain Arm Homer – Land’s End Chugach and Talkeetna mountains. Heading out of Anchorage, you’ll pass Homer is the western terminus of the through the Anchorage Coastal Wildlife U.S. road system and, at least as far as Palmer and the colonists Refuge. Keep an eye out for beautiful automobiles are concerned, land’s end is As you continue west toward Alaska’s most white tundra swans and other migratory at the tip of the Homer Spit, a four-mile populated region, you’ll reach the town of birds, beaver, moose and fish in the waters (6-km) stretch of land that reaches into Palmer, which has one of the most unique of the marsh. As you head south along Kachemak Bay. The gravel beaches of the founding stories in Alaska. In the aftermath Turnagain Arm, you’ll be treated to what spit are a great place to pitch a tent or park of the as farmers in may be the most beautiful stretch of road an RV, and at the end of the spit, dozens of the Midwest were struggling, President in Alaska. Designated an All-American local businesses and restaurants that cater Roosevelt’s New Deal established the Road by the National Scenic Byways to visitors are clustered along boardwalks. Matanuska Colony at Palmer and relocated program for its spectacular scenery, the In all directions, the ocean, mountains 203 families to Alaska to farm the area. Seward Highway links Anchorage to the and glaciers dominate the horizon. Local Kayaking buddies!

fishermen can be seen headed out for a Families were given 40-acre tracts and Kenai Peninsula. Along the drive south, Alaska) of State , DeYoung (Michael Peninsula Kenai Cove, Halibut had to carve farms out of the soil, clearing you’ll wind along the coast of Turnagain day’s work catching halibut, salmon and

24 | Rocky Mountain Route NorthToAlaska.com | 25 Gold Rush Route

"Love every mile of the trip. I've taken it several times & will do so again." Ruthanne T. – via Facebook

Must See Vancouver's Chinatown 28 The Gold Rush Route will take you from one of Canada’s Barkerville Historic Town 29 largest cities to some of the least populated places in North America, all Yukon River 32 while enjoying views of mountains, glaciers and wildlife. After traversing Pioneer Park 35 through central British Columbia along the Cassiar Highway, you will follow the trail of hopeful prospectors to the epicenter of the Klondike Mount McKinley 35 Gold Rush in Dawson City, Yukon, before crossing into Alaska and heading north to Fairbanks and on to Denali National Park and Anchorage.

Fairbanks (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska)

26 | Gold Rush Route NorthToAlaska.com | 27 Bowron Lake Provincial Park (Chris Harris, Tourism BC)

Vancouver As you’re absorbing all the gold rush Your journey begins in one of the most history that lies along this route, you diverse, vibrant and exciting cities in the won’t want to overlook an equally world – Vancouver. Don’t take our word fascinating and much older history that for it: Numerous magazines and business sits side-by-side with the pickaxes and organizations have given the city high sluice boxes – that of the First Nations marks over the years for its quality of cultures of the area. Located about 25 life, access to green spaces and other miles (40 km) north of Hope as you enter urban amenities. Visitors will get a taste Fraser Canyon, Tuckkwiowhum Heritage A river of ice... for what makes Vancouver so well liked Interpretive Village features guided tours at places like Granville Island – an urban of a traditional village site customary to oasis with a legendary public market, the Nlaka’pamux culture. The interpretive Salmon Glacier near Stewart (JF Bergeron, Tourism BC) restaurants, art galleries and family village features summer lodges, a smoke friendly attractions – and Stanley Park, house, food caches, a sweat lodge, earth time for a side trip to Barkerville Historic ovens and traditional storytelling in a Town to experience British Columbia the nearly 1,000-acre rain forest park Vancouver (Albert Normandin, Tourism BC) overlooking Vancouver's harbor and the pit house. during the gold rush era of the late Strait of Georgia. You’ll quickly notice the 1800s. Barkerville is British Columbia’s city’s diversity as you stroll downtown, and, Fraser Canyon north to Barkerville As you continue north, the communities largest historic site and features dozens after hearing multiple languages spoken As you drive out of Vancouver, you’ll you’ll encounter each display their gold of buildings and attractions maintained around you, probably won’t be surprised pass through the and then rush past through a variety of museums to represent the town’s heyday during the to learn that more than 50 percent of head north. You’ll be passing through and interpretive sites, and for those with an Gold Rush. Go back in time at the the city’s residents aren’t native English communities like Yale, Lytton, Lillooet, interest in how the West was explored and old-time saloon or go back to school in the speakers. In fact, Vancouver has one of the Cache Creek, Clinton, 100 Mile House, 150 settled, this is rich territory. Get a flavor at renovated schoolhouse. The Theatre Royal largest Chinese populations outside China, Mile House, Williams Lake and Quesnel, Historic Hat Creek Ranch, which catered to presents live theater multiple times per day and the city’s Chinatown neighborhood which all played a central role in the miners, pack-train operators, stagecoaches that depicts life and history in Barkerville. is a wonderful place to explore stores, in the mid-1800s. and wagon trains heading north. One of the more unusual and interesting restaurants and apothecaries. Round out Originally established as roadhouses on exhibits features the Chinese immigrants the cultural experience by visiting the the Cariboo Wagon Road, the communities If you’re passing through in late June, that came to Barkerville to work in the University of British Columbia’s Museum retain their gold rush character while be sure to experience the Williams Lake mines and run businesses. On the way east of Anthropology, which specializes in First offering modern visitors plenty of Stampede in Williams Lake, a legendary of Quesnel, stop in at Knott’s Crafts and Nations culture. recreation options and opportunities to rodeo event that spans several days during Candy – a dizzying emporium of treats that relive the historic past. Canada Day weekend. Make sure to leave is a favorite of highway travelers.

28 | Gold Rush Route NorthToAlaska.com | 29 Two-nation vacation: or canoe in the area. For those in cars or Stewart, B.C. and Hyder, Alaska on motorcycles, consider a side trip on the As you revel in the gorgeous scenery along gravel road that follows the Cassiar Highway, keep an eye out for to the "Grand Canyon" of the the turnoff to Stewart, B.C. and Hyder, for exceptional views. (Steep grades on the Alaska. It’s a short side trip and well worth road make the trip prohibitive for RVs.) the time. Situated at the head of Portland Canal, one of the largest fjords in the is your last stop in British world, the two communities straddle the Columbia before crossing the border international border and are essentially into Yukon, where the Cassiar intersects one town. Although both are tiny and with the Alaska Highway just west of isolated, they remain extremely popular Watson Lake. For more on the section of with visitors for several reasons, including the highway between Watson Lake and the remarkably accessible and beautiful Whitehorse see pages 20-21. ice field and glaciers in the area and the Barkerville Historic Town (Leif Grandell, Tourism BC) opportunity to watch black and grizzly On the trail of the Klondike Gold Rush bears feasting on salmon at Fish Creek. From Whitehorse, you’ll be following the The turnoff for Stewart/Hyder is just north trail of the thousands of prospectors who of Meziadin Lake Provincial Park, itself a Prince George Welcome to the beautiful great place to spot bears and a favorite Heading north from Quesnel, your next Cassiar Highway camping area along the highway. stop is Prince George, the largest city The Cassiar Highway, also known in northern British Columbia and a as Highway 37, branches north from After heading back to the Cassiar, you’ll be great place to refuel and restock before Highway 16 about 70 miles (112 km) west entering what’s known as the /Tatogga continuing on toward the Cassiar Highway. of Smithers. Sometimes known as the area and the gateway to Stikine Country, As you enter town, you’ll be greeted by Stewart-Cassiar Highway, it stretches 450 Spatsizi Plateau Wilderness Provincial “Mr. PG,” a giant, smiling log statue that miles (720 km) to southern Yukon Territory. Park, Provincial Park, the represents the welcoming nature of this Along the way, travelers will enjoy up-close "Grand Canyon" of the Stikine and the Dease lake timber town. Here, you’ll begin heading viewing opportunities for black and grizzly Upper Stikine River en route to Dease Lake. west back toward the bears, moose and dozens of other wildlife through lake-studded country heavily species. The highway was built section by Dease Lake and the "Grand Canyon" populated by moose and deer. The lakes section throughout the 1900s to connect of the Stikine and waterways in the area provide ample resource-rich northern B.C. to markets The small town of Dease Lake sits astride opportunity to fish and boat, or are just for various commodities. The highway has a pass separating the basins of the Dease a great place for a midday picnic lunch. been continuously upgraded and today it is River and the Tanzilla, a tributary of the Along the way, consider a side trip to Fort fully paved. Stikine River, at the Continental Divide. St. James to see one of Canada’s National From Dease Lake, visitors can fish, hike Eureka! Historic Sites, a former Hudson’s Bay

Gold, Dawson City (George Fischer, Yukon Government) Company trading post and one of the oldest remaining original European settlements in British Columbia. Fort St. James is located DETOUR on the shores of Stuart Lake and can be reached from Vanderhoof. Prince Rupert Further down the road, the charming Right where the Cassiar Highway Alpine-themed town of Smithers is a great begins, a tempting diversion place to stop for an afternoon or overnight. beckons: the drive to Prince The nature-loving local residents, who Rupert, B.C. is a 150-mile (240- refer to themselves as "Smithereens," km) detour north along Highway enjoy nearby Babine Mountains Provincial 16, which offers stunning coastal Park for hiking, wildlife viewing and winter scenery en route to convenient sports. The downtown area offers dozens connections to the Alaska and of restaurants and a few hotels while the B.C. ferry systems. beautiful, mountainous setting makes Smithers a delightful find en route to the start of the Cassiar Highway.

Canadian Mountie, Prince George (JF Bergeron, Tourism BC)

30 | Gold Rush Route NorthToAlaska.com | 31 Dawson City (George Fischer, Yukon Government) Tombstone Territorial Park (F Mueller, Yukon Government)

streamed north to Dawson City back in Immediately after joining the North wonderfully recreate this chapter in U.S. 1897-98. Of course, those early explorers en route to Dawson and Canadian history. Or, chat with the didn’t have the benefit of a highway and had City, keep an eye out for the turnoff to locals and embark on a modern day tour to DETOUR to heft their loads overland and by river, Takhini Hot Springs for a fun and relaxing find out why Dawson still attracts residents but the modern North Klondike Highway stop. As you continue north, communities with an adventurous spirit. A trip to the roughly traces the same route. The name like Carmacks and Pelly Crossing have gold fields is a must, to understand history of the first major destination along the way their own boom-and-bust stories, and and get a glimpse of modern day mining in Adventurous travelers seeking may sound familiar: Lake Laberge was local historical and cultural sites giving the area, as well as a drive to the top of the some of the most beautiful and made famous in the legendary poem of travelers the opportunity to explore those Dome Road to take in the view of Dawson remote wilderness in North those early gold rush days, “The Cremation communities. Be sure to get a photo at City and the coming together of the Yukon America can find it along the of Sam McGee” by Robert Service. Five Finger Rapids en route to Dawson and Klondike rivers. Dempster Highway, Canada’s City, where the Yukon River is split into five first all-weather road to cross the channels by four large rock spires. From Dawson City, you’ll take a short, Arctic Circle. The 457-mile (731- free car ferry across the Yukon River and km), two-lane gravel road begins There are strange things done About 40 miles (64 km) before Dawson continue on the just east of Dawson City, Yukon, in the midnight sun City, watch for the turnoff to Tombstone about 70 miles (112 km) before crossing and ends at Inuvik, Northwest Territorial Park, one of Yukon’s most into Alaska. The highway runs across ridge Territories. The trip includes two By the men who moil spectacular wilderness areas. tops and provides spectacular views of ferry crossings. for gold; rolling hills and distant mountain ranges. The Arctic trails have Dawson City and the Bring a sense of adventure and their secret tales Klondike Gold Rush Alaska’s Fortymile Country an extra spare tire for this trip! For a short time right after the first gold Shortly after crossing the border, you will The only gas stations along the That would make your strike in the Klondike, Dawson City was reach the , a narrow gravel road are at the Eagle Plain Hotel, blood run cold; a town of 40,000 people – the largest road that is maintained only in summer. located about half way through city north of and west of the trip, and at Fort McPherson The Northern Lights have Winnipeg. Its boom days are still evident in Taking the Taylor Highway south will and Inuvik. Before heading up the seen queer sights, the elaborate, false-fronted buildings that lead you to the small town of Chicken in highway, drop by the Dempster line its streets and the wooden boardwalks what’s known as the Fortymile Country, a Delta Visitor Information Centre But the queerest they that serve as sidewalks. Its 2,000 residents mining district that played a central role in on Front Street in Dawson City ever did see still include placer miners, dog mushers Alaska’s gold era. Legend has it that the for the latest road conditions and and other frontier characters, and its local town is called Chicken because the miners Was that night on the marge help in planning your trip. attractions are a great way to immerse who settled it wanted to name it after the of Lake Lebarge yourself in the gold rush days. Saloons like plentiful Ptarmigan in the area, but none of I cremated Sam McGee. Diamond Tooth Gertie’s Gambling Hall and them knew how to spell it. The community museums like the Jack London Museum Brian Adams (State of Alaska)

32 | Gold Rush Route NorthToAlaska.com | 33 Fairbanks, and soon prospectors poured into the area. Today, Fairbanks’ Pioneer Park preserves much of this history as DETOUR well as displaying information on modern gold mining, as the industry is still alive and well in the area. Visitors also enjoy Dalton Highway a visit to Gold Dredge No. 8, a National Want to cross the Arctic Circle Engineering Landmark that once extracted and see the Brooks Range? View of Dawson City from The Dome (R Hartmier, Yukon Government) millions of ounces of gold from the frozen The drive up the Dalton ground. Other fun things to do in Fairbanks Highway, also known as the include soaking at nearby Chena Hot “Haul Road,” is one of the Springs, a stern-wheeler ride on the Chena most rugged and remote in River as it winds through town, golfing at North America, and takes midnight under the summer sun or dining you from Fairbanks all the out on the deck of one of several riverfront way to Alaska’s northern restaurants. You also won't want to miss coastline, through millions the Museum of the North on the campus of acres of wilderness lands. of the University of Alaska Fairbanks, and But be prepared: the 414- mile (662-km) road is mostly Riverboat Discovery, Fairbanks (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska) the Morris Thompson Cultural Center in downtown Fairbanks. Spending several gravel, with very limited days is well warranted, and hotels, public facilities. And remember: the Delta Junction: and private camping, bed and breakfasts “Ice Road Truckers” have the The End of the Alaska Highway and other options are plentiful. right of way! The Bureau of You may be surprised to learn that the town Land Management has more of Delta Junction is the end of the Alaska From Fairbanks, you’ll head south toward details at www.blm.gov. At the Highway. Delta Junction was chosen as one of Alaska’s most popular visitor home page, search for “Dalton the terminus due to its proximity to several destinations – Denali National Park Highway." nearby military airfields, including Fort and Preserve. Greely, a short distance from town. Not unlike Dawson Creek, B.C., Delta Junction “The High One,” Mount McKinley features a monument celebrating its In the local Athabascan language, Mount location as the end of the highway. Be sure McKinley is called Denali, which means to get a photo here. “The High One,” and it is! At 20,320 feet, it is the tallest mountain in North America.

Fun times! Alaska) of State DeYoung, (Michael Fairbanks Between Delta Junction and Fairbanks, The mountain sits in the midst of 6 million you’ll pass several small fishing holes along the road, with signage visible indicating stocked lakes. Before entering still doesn’t take itself too seriously, and a Fairbanks, Alaska’s second-largest city, stop is well worth the time. Check out the be sure to take some time in North Pole, Pedro Gold Dredge and get a bite to eat where it’s Christmas all year. Santa Claus before getting back on the road. Lane, Kris Kringle Road and candy-striped light poles are just the beginning. The At Tetlin Junction, you’ll reach the Alaska Santa Claus House, a toy store and local Highway and head north toward Interior institution, and its 42-foot fiberglass Santa Alaska’s gold-rush epicenter, Fairbanks. statue are must-sees. The landscape of eastern Interior Alaska is much like that in neighboring Yukon – Alaska’s “Golden Heart” boreal forest and rolling hills, rivers, lakes Fairbanks is known as the Golden Heart and bogs where moose lazily chew on City, and the slogan holds multiple grasses. Keep an eye out for bison grazing meanings. It refers both to the city’s gold along the roadway as you approach Delta rush history and its warm and welcoming Junction. These prehistoric-looking beasts residents. An Italian immigrant named were once native to the area and a herd was Felix Pedro discovered gold in Fairbanks in later successfully reintroduced. 1902. Business interests in the area sent runners to Dawson City to spread the word that new claims were available around Dalton Highway (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska)

34 | Gold Rush Route NorthToAlaska.com | 35 Moose. Peek-a-boo! "If you haven't done Alaska - you haven't lived.” Maria L.– via Facebook

Mount McKinley (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska)

acres of unspoiled wilderness where bears, About 40 minutes north of Anchorage you Anchorage wolves, caribou, Dall sheep, moose, fox, will reach Wasilla, the commercial center Anchorage, Alaska’s largest city, is home bald eagles and many other species reside. of Alaska's fastest growing region. Take a to nearly 300,000 people. For those who No trip to Denali is complete without taking quick detour down Knik-Goose Bay road to live here, the city combines the best of both one of the daily wilderness bus tours run visit the headquarters of the famed Iditarod worlds – urban amenities and easy access by the National Park Service. Other options Trail Sled Dog Race, which offers dog cart to unparalleled wilderness. Located on include rafting the Nenana River, hiking, rides daily during the summer months. the shores of Cook Inlet and at the head of ranger-led tours or a visit to the park’s Turnagain Arm, the city is flanked to the

sled-dog kennel. east by the Chugach Mountains, Chugach Anchorage (Matt Hage, State of Alaska) of State Hage, (Matt Anchorage State Park and Chugach National Forest, World - class! To truly appreciate the beauty and scale the second-largest national forest in the of the mountain, though, you may need country. Hundreds of miles of pedestrian to see it from the air. Head south to the and biking trails network the city, including quirky little town of Talkeetna, the primary the popular Tony Knowles Coastal Trail. The jumping-off point for mountain climbers Anchorage Museum at Rasmuson Center preparing to scale Mount McKinley. Said to and the Alaska Native Heritage Center are be the inspiration for the fictional town of world-class facilities showcasing historical Cicely in the popular TV series “Northern and cultural artifacts from around the Exposure,” the town has a long aviation state. Downtown Anchorage offers upscale history, and several companies offer flights dining that leans heavily on Alaska’s fresh, over and around the mountain for an wild seafood bounty, while brewpubs and up-close and humbling view of its outdoor stands selling reindeer hot dogs immense size. round out the culinary scene.

As you continue south toward Anchorage, From Anchorage, you can reach virtually the boreal forest and wide valleys of New adventures await anywhere in the state. Many of Alaska's Interior Alaska give way to dramatic communities are reachable only by air, Great trails coastal mountains and towering and Anchorage is the state's main air hub.

spruce trees. Denali National Park (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska) From here, the possibilities are endless!

Tony Knowles Coastal Trail (Chris Arend, State of Alaska)

36 | Gold Rush Route NorthToAlaska.com | 37 Inside Passage Route

"The scenery is beautiful between here and there, if you take your time and enjoy it. We had to hurry once and I won't do that again. Six weeks is not long enough.” Mary D. – via Facebook

Must See Parliament Buildings 40 The Inside Passage Route glides quietly past the dense Creek Street 41 spruce forests of the British Columbia coastline, and along the shores of Mendenhall Glacier 42 Alaska’s Inside Passage, a fleet of ferries carries passengers and vehicles

White Pass and 44 along what is known as a marine highway – an interconnected network of Yukon Route Railroad communities accessible by sea.

Chilkoot Trail 44 If you like the idea of getting on and off when you please, staying for Prince William Sound 47 a few hours or several days in each port of call, taking your RV, car or motorcycle with you, and meeting and sharing stories with your fellow travelers, read on to learn how you can incorporate this unique route into your Ultimate North American Road Trip.

Carmanah Walbran Provincial Park, (JF Bergeron, Tourism BC)

38 | Inside Passage Route NorthToAlaska.com | 39 Victoria Harbour, Vancouver Island (James O'Mara, Tourism BC)

British Columbia’s island Qualicum Beach and Hornby Island are excursions. A lucky few will spot one of the the opportunity to watch Tlingit artisans and coast culture wonderful beachcombing, hiking and region’s rare Kermode bears, which are at work carving totem poles, among black bears with a genetic mutation that other cultural attractions. The wild and Your journey along the coasts of British kayaking destinations along the way, and renders them completely white, although raucous Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show Columbia and Alaska begins in Vancouver, towns like and Courtenay offer they are not albinos. Known as “spirit showcases acrobatic skills and athleticism one of Canada’s largest and most diverse lots of quaint shops and restaurants. The bears” to the local First Nations people, the and gives audiences a chance to take part. cities, steeped in maritime and First Quw’utsun’ Cultural and Conference Centre bears are thought to have survived due to In the mountains and along the coasts, Nations culture. (To read more about in Duncan and the U’mista Cultural Centre the indigenous peoples’ reverence for them. hiking trails abound, and opportunities to Vancouver, see page 28.) From the city of in Alert Bay offer a glimpse into Aboriginal fish for salmon and other species are also Vancouver, you’ll take a short ferry trip culture. Stop in Telegraph Cove for whale From Prince Rupert, the sailing to plentiful. Ketchikan has both public and across the Strait of Georgia to Victoria on watching and bear viewing. As you venture Ketchikan is just six hours aboard an private campgrounds and plenty of hotels Vancouver Island. The Tsawwassen ferry farther north on the island, you get a sense Alaska Marine Highway System ferry. and other accommodations and could easily terminal for BC Ferries is located just south of what the entire island must have once hold your interest for several days. of Richmond, a suburb of Vancouver. looked like – dense forests, lakes, streams and waterfalls. Alaska’s First City – Ketchikan Welcome to Alaska’s First City! Based on Victoria is British Columbia’s capital city your mode of transportation, this name is and one of the oldest cities in the Pacific Port Hardy to Prince Rupert easy to understand – Ketchikan is the first Northwest. Named for Great Britain’s In Port Hardy, you’ll board BC Ferries for place you reach in Alaska when traveling Queen Victoria, evidence of the British the voyage to Prince Rupert, a 15-hour by ferry (or cruise ship). This former era and role in the city’s founding is easily sailing that typically leaves early in the gold camp and logging town embraces seen in its buildings, famous gardens and morning and reaches Prince Rupert in the its history and heritage in a number of pedestrian amenities. Two of the most evening. Prince Rupert is situated along the visitor-friendly sites. Among the must-sees notable architectural landmarks are the Inside Passage, and its landscape is typical are Creek Street, a boardwalk pedestrian British Columbia Parliament Buildings, of the region – tall coastal mountains, “street” situated on pilings above Ketchikan completed in 1897, and the Empress Hotel, islands, ocean, rain forest, and a charming Creek. Creek Street is lined with art built in 1908 and still serving high tea small boat harbor and downtown. Check galleries, restaurants and shops along each afternoon. out the shops in the Cow Bay district and visit any of several excellent local with Dolly’s House Museum, which pays homage to the “gold rush girls” who From Victoria, spend a day or two enjoying museums, including the Museum of earned their livings at the former brothel the drive north to catch your ferry in Port Northern British Columbia, the Kwinitsa during the late 1800s. Totem Bight State Hardy, at the island’s northern tip. Along Railway Museum and the North Pacific Park features 14 large totem poles and the way, you’ll encounter rocky beaches, Cannery, a Parks Canada-designated an intricately decorated Tlingit clan house Orca dreams... moss-laden spruce trees towering National Historic Site. Prince Rupert is also

situated along the coast, and Saxman Vancouver Island (Tourism BC) overhead, jagged coastal mountains and a popular place to take a bear-viewing tour; Native Village south of town offers visitors the crisp, clean ocean air. Places like several local tour companies offer these

40 | Inside Passage Route NorthToAlaska.com | 41 One of the most accessible glaciers in last of a handful of military bases built in Alaska, the Mendenhall Glacier spills out Alaska during the gold rush, and is now of the and into iceberg- a national historic site. Haines’ historic studded Mendenhall Lake. For a taste cemetery offers an interesting perspective of Juneau’s history, stop by the Alaskan on the town’s first non-Native residents. Brewing Company’s tasting room to sample Headstones dating to the late 1800s tell its iconic Alaskan Amber, which was the story of young men who lived hard and developed based on a recipe from early died young. Also not to be missed is the gold prospectors. Hammer Museum, a quirky little tribute to one of man’s most useful tools. The As the only capital city in the country proprietor has more than 1,500 hammers not accessible by highway, your arrival on display, dating from ancient to modern by ferry makes you just like one of the times, and even a Tlingit war hammer locals. During the school year, kids in found in the building’s crawl space as Inside Passage schools travel by ferry to he was shoring up the foundation before play sports against other communities, opening in 2002. and people in smaller towns take the Creek Street, Ketchikan (Mark Kelley, State of Alaska) ferry to Juneau for shopping, doctor’s At this point it’s shorter to drive north appointments and to visit family. You’ll find on the to the Alaska a wide range of accommodation options, Highway, but you’ll miss historic Skagway Stikine River Country Little Norway including RV parks, spread throughout and Yukon’s capital, Whitehorse. Instead, Famed American naturalist and the father On a standard northbound itinerary, your Juneau and nearby Douglas Island. consider getting back on the ferry and be of the National Park Service next stop will be Petersburg, Alaska’s prepared to relive the heady days of the first set foot in Alaska during a visit to “Little Norway.” Located on Mitkof Island Sitka Kondike Gold Rush! Wrangell in 1879. At the time, the town and home to many commercial fishing From Juneau, consider a side trip by ferry wasn’t much to speak of – a former fur families of Norwegian descent, you’ll see or air to Sitka, the town where the U.S. took trade center that had been abandoned and signs of the local culture all over town, with possession of Alaska from Russia in 1867. was, at the time, a gateway for prospectors Norwegian flags hanging from light poles Other attractions include Sitka National to the gold that lay up the nearby Stikine and the traditional Norwegian decorative Park and close-up views of eagles and River. Nonetheless, Muir was enchanted by painting, rosmaling, visible on signs. other birds at the Alaska Raptor Center. characteristics that still exist today – lush Petersburg is an excellent place to connect forests, coastal mountains and beaches with a guide for a charter fishing adventure Haines strewn with garnets and decorated with or to go whale watching. Hiking, kayaking From Juneau, it’s just a short ride up Tlingit-carved petroglyphs. One of the most and beachcombing are also popular. Lynn Canal to Haines, known for its huge popular options for visitors is to take a fall concentrations of bald eagles, which jet-boat ride up the Stikine River to Anan Alaska’s Capital City gather to feast on a late run of salmon Wildlife Observatory, where black and From Petersburg, your next stop is Alaska’s in the Chilkat River. Haines is one of brown bears can be seen together feasting capital city, Juneau. Juneau is a well- the Inside Passage’s sunnier spots, and on salmon in the streams. Tlingit heritage developed destination and there are tons of offers great hiking, boating, camping and is also on display at Chief Shakes Island, things to do here, from outdoor adventures fishing. Its small, charming downtown ?? which features a replica Tlingit clan house to cultural facilities, restaurants, theater and historic Fort Seward offer a taste of and several totem poles. and shopping. Downtown Juneau, with the town’s history. Fort Seward was the its colorfully painted Victorian homes For those really

As you head north from Wrangell toward and historic storefronts, is a popular BIG jobs! The Hammer Museum, Haines (Brian Adams, State of Alaska) your next port of call, Petersburg, you’ll place for visitors to wander, checking transit the Wrangell Narrows, a unique out museums, art galleries and other experience for ferry passengers in the shops. Overhead, the Mount Roberts Tram Inside Passage. The 22-mile (35-km) climbs to the top of Mount Roberts for narrows separates Mitkof and Kupreanof spectacular views. Fishing guides, whale- islands and is marked with more than watching excursions, kayak rentals and 60 navigational aids. The passage is too all manner of other tours can be arranged narrow to accommodate large cruise ships. through vendors in the downtown area. It’s an excellent place to look for wildlife No visit to Juneau is complete without a onshore as the ferry charts its careful trip to Mendenhall Glacier, which can be course through the narrows. reached by private vehicle or on a tour and is just 13 miles (21 km) from downtown.

White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad, Skagway (Brian Adams, State of Alaska)

42 | Inside Passage Route NorthToAlaska.com | 43 Mendenhall Glacier, Juneau (Mark Kelley, State of Alaska)

Skagway museums and facilities offer historical From Whitehorse, you’ll head west on the Skagway was the point where ships insight through photos, films and artifacts. Alaska Highway toward Alaska and the carrying eager prospectors from Seattle Take a ride on the narrow-gauge White communities of Tok and Glennallen. For DETOUR landed and made final provisions for their Pass & Yukon Route railroad, built in 1898 more on Whitehorse and this section of the trek north into Canada’s Yukon and the and now designated as an International drive, please see pages 21-23. Klondike gold fields. Skagway ballooned Historic Civil Engineering Landmark due to McCarthy/Kennecott into a giant boomtown and home to the improbably narrow and steep route its Scenic Byway To experience Wrangell-St. Elias plenty of crime, graft and vice. The entire builders carved out of the mountainside in From Glennallen, this route leads you back National Park and Preserve, turn downtown area is part of the Klondike their quest for gold. The head of the famous toward the sea via the Richardson Highway, off on the Edgerton Highway and Gold Rush National Historical Park, and , which miners hiked into the a National Scenic Byway and a stunner head east, passing through the several National Park Service-managed Yukon before the railroad was built, is at in all directions. Leaving Glennallen, farming community of Kenny nearby Dyea. Formerly a rival community you will immediately notice 12,000-foot Lake until you reach the historic and just as boisterous, Dyea is now a ghost Mount Drum and 16,000-foot Mount railroad tour of Chitina. Cross the town some say is haunted by the souls of Sanford on the horizon – both harbingers Copper River Bridge to reach the those killed in an April 3, 1898 avalanche of the scenery to come. The Richardson gravel McCarthy Road. Continue on the trail. All 52 of the Slide Cemetery’s Highway is Alaska’s oldest highway, and down the roughly 60 slow-going grave markers chillingly bear the same was originally nothing more than a wagon miles (96 km) to the road’s end, at date of death. route connecting Valdez at its south end to the Kennicott River. A pedestrian Eagle, near the Canadian border in Interior bridge provides access to the Your ferry travel ends (for now) in Skagway, Alaska. The trail was established to provide funky little hamlet of McCarthy. from which you’ll take the Klondike an “All-American” route to the gold fields The town is five miles (8 km) from Highway into the Yukon. Along the way, of the Klondike, and it later became the the former Kennecott Copper you’ll be treated to dramatic scenery as chosen path for a telegraph line to Interior Mine, where guides will lead you you climb through the mountains and Alaska as well. Today, it’s well maintained through the restored mill building over White Pass. After crossing the U.S.- with wide shoulders and passing lanes and to learn about the amazing effort Canadian border, you’ll pass briefly through is paralleled much of the way by the Trans- undertaken in the early 1900s British Columbia before reaching Yukon Alaska Oil Pipeline, which you will see to extract the area’s rich copper and the picturesque village of . occasionally from the road as it makes its resources. Shuttles from the Spend some time visiting its numerous way to the shipping terminal across Valdez bridge to McCarthy and the mine At our leisure attractions and enjoy the beautiful scenery Bay from town. are available.

before heading on to Whitehorse. Carcross (Yukon Government) Government) (Yukon Carcross

44 | Inside Passage Route NorthToAlaska.com | 45 Valdez Valdez is known as Alaska’s Little Switzerland. Snow-capped mountains, glaciers, verdant hillsides and Valdez Bay surround this small town that sees an average of more than 300 inches of snow each winter. Valdez is the terminus of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. It is also the gateway to Prince William Sound, and local tour boat operators take visitors out for day cruises in the sound to spot wildlife like orcas, humpback whales, seals, sea lions, otters and sea birds along with tidewater glaciers calving into the ocean. Kayaking and sport fishing for salmon and halibut are also popular pursuits, and guides and tour The scenery never quits! Alaska) of State DeYoung, (Michael Valdez near Falls Veil Bridal companies are readily available, particularly near the town’s small boat harbor. While you’re in Valdez, be sure to visit the recently another great spot to stop for photos or updated Valdez Museum and Historical even spend the night. At the bottom of Archive and its Remembering Old Valdez the pass, you’ll find yourself in Keystone Exhibit, which features a painstakingly Canyon. The highway parallels the Lowe rendered scale model of the former Valdez River, which thunders through the narrow town site, which was completely destroyed canyon’s 300-foot, moss-covered walls. by the tsunami that followed the 1964 Good Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls spill Friday Earthquake. over the canyon walls and further feed the river, offering spectacular photos, rain Valdez is a port of call on the Alaska ferry or shine. (Rafting excursions through the system. Ferries connect Valdez to Prince canyon can be booked in town.) Beyond William Sound communities including the canyon, the landscape opens up and Cordova and Whittier, just 60 miles (96 km) the river fans out over a wide gravel bed south of Anchorage. dominated by gigantic spruce trees. Alternate Route

Kennecott Mine, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park (Matt Hage, State of Alaska) All Aboard! The Alaska Marine Highway As an alternative, you can begin your trip Just south of Glennallen, the Wrangell- Edgerton Highway, which branches off the at the southern terminus of Alaska’s St. Elias National Park and Preserve Richardson Highway about 30 miles (48 km) state-run ferry system in Bellingham, Visitor Center invites you to experience south of Glennallen. located in the far northwest corner the nation’s largest national park. At 13.2 of Washington state not far from the million acres, the park is larger than the A landscape formed by rivers and ice Canadian border. The route is so country of Switzerland, and together with One of the most striking spots on the spectacular that it has been designated three other U.S. and Canadian parks – Richardson Highway is at Worthington a National Scenic Byway and Kluane National Park, Tatshenshini-Alsek Glacier State Recreation Site. Near the top All-American Road. The sailing Provincial Park and Glacier Bay National of Thompson Pass, Worthington Glacier from Bellingham to Ketchikan Park – it is part of a UNESCO World spills out of the mountains and nearly takes about a day and a half. Heritage Site that makes up the largest reaches the roadway. Parking and picnic chunk of protected land in the world. The areas make this an absolutely breathtaking visitor center will help get you acquainted backdrop for photos or a lunch break. A relaxing way to travel should you choose to adventure into the Just after cresting the pass and beginning park, which sits to the east of the highway. your descent toward Valdez, you’ll pass

Alaska Marine Highway, Prince William Sound (Michael DeYoung, State of Alaska) The easiest access to the park is via the Blueberry Lake State Recreation Site,

46 | Inside Passage Route NorthToAlaska.com | 47 Dakka’ Kwa’an dancers, Carcross (Derek Crowe, Yukon Government)

48 | The Ultimate Road Trip NorthToAlaska.com | 48