ISSUE Nº3 WINTER 2012 T19 92 TERRONI MAGAZINE

Featured Region EMILIA-ROMAGNA

TWO BROTHERS, AND TERRONI VETERANS, BRING A FRESH TAKE ON NOURISHING FOOD TO QUEEN ST. W.

What's eating Albion Macleod? Who cares: he looks like Johnny Depp

Two Terroni junior executives take a meeting with the Cake Boss.

Plus, belly buttons, Venus and tortelloni. Oh my! Publisher Elena di Maria

Editor-in-Chief Jessica Allen

Design Small

Staff Photographer Stephanie Palmer CONTRIBUTORS Assistant Editors Tara Downs Natalie Urquhart

Copy Editor Elizabeth Pagliacolo

Columnists Giovanna Alonzi Max Stefanelli Natalie Urquhart

Contributors Quinn Danielis Irene Dongas Rick Kang Sandra Kang Per Kristiansen Kio Reid Shawn Ayers Gianna Sami Shawn is a lifestyle journalist from Vancouver with a passion for pop Mark Venturi culture and fashion. He’s done on-camera reporting in Toronto, and dished with celebrities for Life & Style magazine in New York. He can also be found Admin. Managers quipping to customers at Terroni Queen St. where he’s been a server since Patti Shaw 2009. In his spare time, Shawn flexes his comedic muscle at Second City – Karina Watsone when he’s not at the gym, of course. Follow him on Twitter: @Shawn_Ayers Many thanks to Stephen Alexander, Bella Alexander Rick and Sandra Kang Nic Carlino Rick Kang writes ads, draws album covers and makes comics. He’s also sin- Simon Gadke gle—and desperate, apparently. Peep his stuff at kangski.tumblr.com. Sandra Dale Heslip Sol Korngold Kang is the Art Director of V Magazine. She also draws comics and makes Albion Macleod great lunches (cuz how else you gonna compete with the lunch spots in Anna Mammoliti Manhattan?) Cosimo Mammoliti Vince Mammoliti Cosimo Pagliacolo Jacob Sharkey Pearce Per Kristiansen Lucas Sharkey Pearce Per Kristiansen is an advertising and fine arts photographer whose com- Carla Sorbara mercial work appears regularly in print media across North America. A personal project on Lake Ontario's break wall in West Toronto showed T Magazine at last year's Contact Photography Festival, and enjoyed a formidable Headquarters reception. Per continues to expand on the break wall project in Toronto, 720 Queen St. W. were he lives with his wife and daughter. Toronto, M6J 1E8

For inquiries and comments please email: Gianna Sami [email protected] Gianna is one of Terroni's more recent imports from Los Angeles. Starting as a manger at the now relocated Balmoral location, Gianna now works at Follow us on Cavinona, Terroni's exclusive supplier, where she gets to think about Twitter (@terronito) and Facebook wine all day—and get paid for it! When she's not thinking about wine, she's (Terroni and Terroni: probably thinking about food. Los Angeles), and don’t forget to click “like”. Printed in Canada Paper : Rolland Enviro 100 Paper THE TERRONI INDEX 2

COME AND HOW WE MAKE GET IT LASAGNA ALLA BOLOGNESE

Compiled by by Shawn Ayers Jessica Allen & Tara Downs photos by Stephanie Palmer

Percentage of wine vs. other alcoholic Years Berlusconi held political sway over an autumn afternoon, the prep beverages consumed by Italians: the Italian Republic: 17 ONkitchen in the depths of Terroni 73% vs 13% × Adelaide, a former courthouse, feels more § Years Mussolini ruled : 21 like a venerable old Italian home than a Litres of wine Italians § restaurant. Stone walls and low ceilings sur- consume in a year: 98 Year that an Italian company round large stoves laden with simmering + designed a mattress for sex pots where several cooks are preparing the Litres of wine consumed at the rather than sleeping: 2009 family meal for staff. One of them is actually Terroni Halloween fundraiser: 38 ~ singing an Italian love song, seducing me ‡ Number of times a week Berlusconi’s like a scene from a Fellini film. Meanwhile, Number of grape varietals found in Italy: doctor said he’s physically and two chefs — Theva and Valentina — begin 800 + intellectually fit for sex:6 preparing lasagna alla Bolognese. And like × × most great recipes, this one is a labour of Number that have been catalogued by Number of non-confidence love. Terroni has been baking the tradition- Italy’s Ministry of Agriculture & Forestry: votes Berlusconi has survived since al dish from Emilia Romagna for years now. nearly 400 2008’s general election: 51 They begin by making spinach dough ~ ~ specific to the authentic version that are Grape varietals represented on Number of times he’s been rolled into large, thin sheets and boiled with Terroni wine lists: 60 interrogated (his own count): 577 great care, so they don’t fall apart. Next, they ‡ + prepare the Bolognese : fresh ground Countries represented on Nickname of Macintosh’s LC series of desktop and various cuts of , including Terroni wine lists: 1 computers first launched in 1992: Box prosciutto, are added to a sofritto of onions, + ‡ celery and carrots. The ragù is finished Countries represented at this year’s Amount of RAM included in the first LC: off with tomatoes, red wine and a touch of Toronto International Film Festival: 2 MB nutmeg and left to simmer for over five over 60 ~ hours. Then they make the béchamel sauce ~ Amount of RAM included in a 2011 iMac: and after it all cools, the layering begins: the Number of films screened 4096 MB chefs work in tandem like a well-oiled ma- at TIFF this year: over 300 § chine, laying down the pasta sheets in large × Metric tons of extra-virgin olive oil Italy baking trays and then delicately covering Number of tortelloni handmade by Terroni exports in a year: 80,000 them with a coating of the Bolognese and for the Pop-Up Grey Goose Soho House × then the béchamel, plus a dusting of freshly during TIFF: 3,438 Percentage of this that arrives at grated Grana Padano cheese. Béchamel and § Terroni annually: .035 small jewels of the ragù top the fifth and Lives changed after consuming said § final layer. The trays are delivered to the lobster-stuffed tortelloni: Average number of olives that go into other Terroni locations where they’re baked 1 (Gossip maven Lainey Liu) making one liter of Terroni olive oil: 1,375 for about 30 minutes in a 350 degree oven. ‡ ~ Preparing one tray would be a feat in itself, Italy’s vs. Canada’s rank on the World Bank’s list Number of Craig’s List Missed Connections but the team knocks out six to eight of these of “ease of doing banking with”: 87 vs. 13 that have occurred this year at Terroni: 2 at a time, using 12 sheets of pasta per tray, a + × few times a week. It’s a gastronomic sympho- Rank of Namibia: 78 Year that Italy celebrated its ny to watch, and even more exciting to eat. × 150th anniversary: 2011 (I had a piece for lunch!) If it’s on the Terroni’s rank in Now Magazine’s 2011 Best ‡ specials menu next time you’re in, follow Italian Restaurant list: 1 Year that Terroni will celebrate its my lead and sit down with a piece and a big ~ 20th anniversary: 2012 glass of red wine. Be warned though: you Winners of this year’s World Top Restaurant + could very well fall in love. awards that are located in Italy: 3 Number of Terroni § employees in 1992: 3 In Canada: 0 ~ Number today: 400 SOMEONE’S IN THE KITCHEN WITH 4 5 THE SHARKEY PEARCE BROTHERS

On a recent Friday night, the boys, who cut their restaurant chops at Terroni, cooked CHEF JACOB SHARKEY PEARCE up a four course feast for a dozen wise– HAS RISEN THROUGH THE RANKS cracking eaters, including Cumbrae owner Stephen Alexander and his wife, Bella. The OF TORONTO KITCHENS AND setting? Cosimo’s kitchen, of course. SINCE 2006 HE AND HIS << Jess >> (to Lucas) I need to talk with. What BROTHER, LUCAS, HAVE RUN the hell’s going on? There’s a restaurant THEIR OWN FOOD CONSULTING opening up where Bar One used to be, and you and your brother are behind it, correct? BUSINESS, TWO BROTHERS INC. << Cosi >> And tonight we are deciding the name of the place. << Jess >> (to Lucas) Are you comfortable with that? << Lucas >> I’m fine with it. I like the name Bear Cub. It’s actually not a great restaurant name but it’s the nickname of the chef. << Cosi >> You have to tell everybody at the table tonight as much as you can what the place is about and then at the end of the night we’re going to all write a name from your shortlist on a piece of paper. And if we don’t come up with something, I’m going to call it Casa della Mamma. << Lucas >> I wanted to call it Mother Bear or Bear Cub. Those are all “idea” names. But the short list is partly historical — names that have meaning for whatever reason, and are connected to us or the place. And there can take something to? How long can we ① “When you meet our << Cosi >> First of all, thank you guys. Thanks << Jess >> How long has this restaurant been are names that are connected with the food cook it? So we’re picking our techniques general manager, Kosta Ket- everybody to a great future together. Cheers! in the works? but I don’t want it to be something you have and processes very carefully and then trying silis, you’ll be so happy with << Jess >> So Cosimo, what are your earliest << Cosi >> Every year, the boys call me up to “get”. I just want it to be a word. to provide as much nutrient-dense foods as him. He loves people. He’s memories of Jacob and Lucas? and we have a meeting and I find out where a real master of servants. << Cosi >> I like the sound of a one-syllable possible. He’s been doing this for 16 << Cosi >> Well, Lucas started working for us they’re at and they’ve got their hands in a name, like Ter–ron–i. Just one syllable. Nice << Cosi >> All right. Is everybody in the years. He worked at Centro in 1997. million little things and they’re trying to and simple. house? with Jacob in 2003 and << Lucas >> October 1997. I was just turning develop themselves. And this year, final- << Jess >> laughing << Jacob >> I’ve already had five glasses of he’s worked for Marc Thuet 18 years old. I was 17 actually and turned 18 ly — because I wasn’t doing much — << Lucas >> I like simple. You don’t have to wine. That was not a good idea. I would like for five years. Every time, there. << Ele >> Yeah! That’s right, he was looking get what it means to say it and remember to welcome everybody to what should be he gets promoted to head << Cosi >> Now I remember. He was a poet, for something to occupy his time. waiter by default because it. We were going to put a constellation of a delightful dinner. It’s a bit of an expres- he takes care of everything. okay? A po-et! That’s all he did. You know << Cosi >> So I said to them, You know what Ursa Minor on the front wall and not have sion of what we’re going to be doing at the He’s that guy. He loves ev- what? He wrote me a poem once that was guys? Enough is enough. I always knew that any name. You know Jacob’s nickname is restaurant in three to seven to nine weeks erybody and knows every- really beautiful and I put it in a book and un- they needed to open up a restaurant but Bear Cub. But that image might be there re- from now (to laughter). Although we’re not body. And all the big owners fortunately I don’t look at books very often they’re into this nutrition stuff and being gardless of the name. What we do know is talking about it, unless people ask, part of in the city have known this and I don’t know where it is. It was for my chefs for these athletes like, Chris Bosh, and that what we’re putting on the plate is not the philosophy of the restaurant is going to guy since he was in grade 8. birthday. I was like whatever. So I said I would try to He’s a natural.” LUCAS exactly normal, but it’s very classic. have a really conscious focus on nutrition. << Elena >> And when Matteo was born he help, but beware: If I open up another res- << Jess >> What is it that’s not exactly So we’ll have 10 to 14 items on the menu made a mobile out of Japanese papers and taurant my wife will fucking cut my balls off. normal? that will change seasonally. But the tast- ② The shortlist of restau- every piece of paper had a poem about Mat- No, no: you can keep your balls. I rant names included ones << Ele >> << Lucas >> We want to share what we’ve ing menu, which would otherwise be called with profound meaning teo. The poems are so beautiful. It’s almost would just leave you. Go ahead and have fun learned over the last five years. We’ve been “your specials,” will be focused: something for from Jacob and Lucas, like Lucas knew him before he was born. with your balls. working with professional athletes, patients green and probiotic, something live and including: Ursa, Ursa << Cosi >> And then he left us and when he << Cosi >> So a property came up and people in hospitals, very poor people, very, very rich raw, some controlled protein portions. Ev- Minora, Ursa Minor, came back he’d started wearing a turban on approached me about it but I couldn’t do it. people and mostly we found that they’re in erything is done with a lot of intention and Stonebow, Tablelands, Car- his head and cutting down trees for a living. So I sat them down and said, Guys, I think the same situation: that there are dietary artistry. It’s going to be beautiful, but still a bon, Balsam, Balsam Fir, His brother Jacob was working for us then. this is the perfect opportunity and the perfect Bear Cub, Little Bear and factors that you can’t control. We feed them little bit soulful, accessible. I think you will Apis. But dinner guests << Ele >> But Lucas was the first one of the time to take over this space. It has a liquor li- things that are right for their needs but enjoy it, once you sit down to eat it. threw a few suggestions of kids to work for us. cense, you can do your renovations and you without stepping on their practical or emo- their own into the mix, in- can open up a lot easier than starting from tional concerns. We don’t want to come up First Course: soup with five varieties cluding: Birkenstock, Oye, Second course: a root vegetable salad scratch. And they needed to be convinced a with a diet plan for you. But technically in of wild mushrooms, kombucha (fer- Bros’ Hardware Store, and dressed two ways — in a walnut vinai- little bit. They had all kinds of people pull- the kitchen the methods are very reduced: this goldie: Sol’s Jewish ing them to do different things and, you mented tea), chestnut agnolotti del Deli and Knish Emporium. grette plus kefir dressing, with pick- what’s the maximum temperature that we plin and shavings of black truffle. led walnuts know, I just wanted to quietly help them do SOMEONE’S IN THE KITCHEN WITH 6 7 THE SHARKEY PEARCE BROTHERS

③ “I started in 1998 and I remember one of my earliest memories of Lucas was of him leaning up against the dish pit. Back then, you washed the dishes right beside the machine, and it was one position: you washed dishes and made the coffee. And you were leaning up against the dish pit and you were reading Plato’s Republic. I remember thinking, Who the f—k is this asshole with Plato’s Republic washing dishes? And then, within five minutes, I knew you were the real deal. It wasn’t just a show for the ladies or anything. You were earnest about it.” JESS this. You know what? This salad is great! wanted to really push the boundaries of << Stephen >> This belly is sick. It’s some of [Carla and Sol, two of the wise-cracking << Bella >> You know what I think is crazy? cuisine. Between us we’ve done molecular ④ “Everything we do is the best I’ve ever had. regulars around Cosimo and Elena’s dining That this stuff is all so nutricious but it can gastronomy, traditional cuisines— with purpose: from making << Jess >> Cosi, have you been blow away at room table.] taste this good. It’s unbelievable. This can- << Jess >> Who did the molecular gastrono- our own mustard from their level of maturity? These are not the died beet? Unbelievable. my? bullberries, the last berries Jacob and Lucas of yesteryear. Dessert: sweet whole milk ricotta of the season, that we’ve << Stephen >> But I hope you guys have << Jacob >> Robbie. And Jay has worked with foraged, to dehydrating the << Cosi >> Let me tell you something I love with Rosewood Estate honeycomb, some fat coming later. Kaji for quite a few years now. He’s the only kefir probiotic yogurt ele- these guys from years ago and I know some Leatherwood honey, quince, a wild << Cosi >> Oh, it’s coming baby. white person to have ever worked with him. ment of the root vegetable of their techniques and stuff and I’ve heard rice cracker, served with a shot of << Stephen >> I mean, don’t get me wrong: I He’s super. His knife work is just incredible. salad to give different them talk but to be honest with you, I’m not warm lavender-scented whey. love this stuff, and my wife is thrilled, but I Our first menu meeting, we went out to the textures.” JACOB really that knowledgeable about what is go- need a little fat. Still, this is the best salad farm where we’re growing a lot of our pro- ing to go on their plates. I’m more going on << Stephen >> Beautiful, so good. That honey I’ve ever had, by far. duce, out in Meaford, and we sat down over ⑤ “It’s the right time and instinct: by how I feel about them and how is crazy. << Cosi >> Bravo, guys. two days and what came out was kind of the right place. And you my relationship is with them. Tonight is the << Sol >> I can say in all honesty that there’s << Jacob >> It’s all just roots: celeriac, pars- scary. Because we thought, Can we hold onto know what? It’s hard to first time I’ve tried their food, other than no place I’d rather be right now. Grazie. nip, carrot, candied beet, raw beet, radish, this? Can we attain this? Our forth chef has get an opportunity to do them catering Terroni Christmas parties. << Elena >> Stephen, what about you? something. When I started burdock root. And some are dehydrated, also been cooking everywhere. His name is off it was a different way. I’m very happy. And very excited. << Stephen >> Ditto to Sol. You boys are off some are compressed and some of them are John Lucas… the Viking… Big John. He’s six And I’m not comparing the << Lucas >> It’s a relationship based on trust to a flying start. raw. It’s all really simple. foot five. And now we’re trying to find some two. They have a lot more and intuition. There’s nobody in the city we’d Visit Jacob and Lucas at Ursa, << Jess >> I love that everyone has finished female counterparts in the kitchen. training than I had, techni- rather work with. We turned down a lot of 924 Queen St. West. their salad course — look at everyone’s << Jess >> Why’s that? To balance things out? cally. They’ve done their lucrative opportunities because the level of plates. They’re spotless. So, Jacob, this has << Jacob >> 100 per cent. They’re calmer un- homework.” COSI intuition wasn’t there. You can’t create a re- by Jessica Allen been a long time coming, right? der stress and they bring different sensibili- lationship. It has to be lived. There’s nobody photos by Dale Heslip << Jacob >> You bet. It’s the right time. I’m ties to the plate. We need to balance all that ⑥ Sarah Sharkey Pearce, in the city who could have showed us an ad- much happier, I’ve had a little time to ma- testosterone. Jacob and Lucas’s older dress and said ‘now is the time’. We were try- ture. It’s an opportunity to bring together sister, also put in her time ing to dodge it for a long time. Restaurants my experiences, my techniques and all Main course: wild boar four ways at Terroni as a coffee maker. are expensive. Restaurants mean long days. Now, she’s a filmmaker. I’ve learned. My two chefs [Jay Moore and (sous vide of shoulder, loin and bel- Robbie Hojilla] have just incredible cred- ly, plus chicharrones: dehydrated Intermezzo of nutraceutical ibility — two of the most talented chefs I’ve and fried skin) with sautéed kale, cranberry sorbet. ever witnessed and the fact that we’ve all bull berry mustard, cipollini onions, come together is just amazing. We all have Jerusalem artichokes, plus a polenta << Bella >> Karla is going to leave Sol to- different strengths and weaknesses and we of amaranth, quinoa and corn. morrow for Jacob and I’m leaving Stephen. TASTING EMILIA-ROMAGNA 8 9 TASTING EMILIA-ROMAGNA

BUCKLE UP: OUR VERY OWN GIANNA SAMI MAX STEFANELLI RAISES A GLASS TO A VINEYARD TAKES US ON A LAP AROUND THE REGION THAT NOT ONLY PRODUCES TOP NOTCH THAT GAVE US ITALIAN CLASSICS; FROM BUT ALSO MAKES A DIFFERENCE IN THE FOOD TO FELLINI TO FERRARIS. LIVES OF THOSE WHO CRAFT THEM.

Patrignano is one of Italy’s largest rehabili- Former residents Federico, Simona and Piero now run SANtation centres for recovering addicts. It wel- the wine program at Sanpa’ (which is what the residents comes young men and women who have serious drug of San Patrignano call their temporary home) and Co- abuse problems, regardless of ideology, social back- simo and I meet with them once a year at Vinitaly and ground, or religion, and puts them to work. The resi- we go to eat at l’Oste Scuro in Verona, one of the area’s dents do everything from graphic design to carpentry to best fish restaurants. To us, they are like family: we talk winemaking. What’s more, it’s completely free of charge. about everything, including life, love, business, food While San Patrignano may represent one of the and, of course, wine. They are not shy about sharing most unusual ventures in the world, wine- their past experiences with us, especially now that it’s making was among the organization’s earliest initia- over. These are passionate people and, not surprisingly, tives and has become this rehabilitative community’s they make passionate wines. best-known and most successful endeavour.

Emilia – Romagna: even the name draws Like everything else in the region, white you in. And if it doesn’t, the wine, food and grape varieties flourish beautifully. Head ① Aulente, Bianco Rubicone, IGT ④ Avi, DOC, Superiore Riserva Ferraris certainly will. The delicacies of this over to Romagna and you’ll get Italy’s first (chardonnay, sauvignon blanc) (sangiovese di Romagna) north-eastern region is legendary: think white DOCG classification: albana di Ro- This white is pale, straw-yellow in the glass and the nose The wine wishes to represent the highest expression fresh , Bolognese, creamy magna, a dry gem with almond undertones. opens with subtle, pleasurable hints, which change ac- of the indigenous Romagna grape variety, sangiovese. polenta, handmade tortelloni, prosciutto di Emilia, on the other hand, has a more aro- cording to the vintage’s particular personality. Some- Its elegance and expressivity do not hinder, but rather Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano and gnocco matic cast of characters, like malvasia bian- times there are the nuances typical of sauvignon blanc increase the appeal of this wine with its richness and fritto — a fried dough so light and billowy ca (look for Tasto di Seta on the Terroni list) with its delicate grassy notes, or the vintage may be soft, pleasant taste and fruity bouquet. The name is a that it could float out of your hand. Consid- from Colli Piacentini; a hill known for its distinguished by chardonnay’s rounded, flavourful per- nod to tradition, and more importantly to the commu- ered to be Italy’s centre of gastronomy, Bo- production of pleasantly perfumed wines. fumes and its overtones of green apple, grapefruit peel nity’s founder. Avi, in fact, means “A Vincenzo,” that logna, the capital, is endearingly called La For those with a worldly wine cellar, you’ll be and elderberry. It’s aged in steel for about four months. is “To Vincenzo,” the founder of San Patrignano. Long Grassa, or the fat. And it boasts one of the happy to know that chardonnay and sauvi- It’s excellent with maltagliati and artichokes, gnocchi or months in the cellar, plus being bottled-aged for at least highest qualities of life in all of Italy. gnon blanc do well in Romagna, as we found grilled fish. 18 months, enhance its qualities. It’s a powerful ruby red The region begins at the coast of the out with our producer, San Patrignano’s Au- with a garnet rim and the well-developed nose has over- Mediterranean Sea and sweeps inland, cov- lente bianco, a lovely crisp blend of the two ② Aulente, Rosso Rubicone, IGT (sangiovese) tones of violet, plum, clove, nutmeg and cedar wood. ering a hefty belt of land. The area’s richness varietals. An intense ruby red colour gives way to fruity and flo- The palate reveals the wine’s elegance, succulent ex- wasn’t lost on the Etruscans, Gauls, Romans Now for that glorious red — the crown- ral notes in the Aulente Rosso. It’s approachable and tracts and a full structure of smooth tannins. A vibrant or Byzantines, who all made this region a ing jewel of the region — otherwise known has character, but also demonstrates how delicate a richness of flavour leads to a finish with attractive hints base at some point in history. As the name as sangiovese di Romagna. The varietal sangiovese can be. It’s pleasant and smooth, without a of wild berries and sweet spices. Perfect with T-bone suggests, it’s comprised of two sub regions: sangiovese might have actually originated trace of aggressiveness. The nose reveals hints of rose, steaks or hare with truffles. Emilia to the west of and Romagna in the Romagna region, where it’s known cherry and sweet spices. The palate is fresh, medium- to the east. Although they like to flaunt their for being plumper, softer and juicier than bodied with rounded tannins and a remarkably long ① ② ③ ④ differences, they share a cultish passion for its other incarnations, rather than in Tus- finish. The wine ages for a short period of three months two things: wine and food. cany, which lays claim to it. Regardless of in tonneau already used once or twice. Pair this one The only thing that could possibly its origins, this is seriously good wine that with fresh egg pasta and , eggplant parmi- eclipse Emilia-Romagna’s cuisine is its varies across the region: as you travel from giana or grilled meat. wine. From bubbly to big bold reds, they’ve the lower lying marine plains you’ll find a got it all, but Lambrusco reigns supreme as more fruit-forward style. But as you climb up ③ Ora, DOC, Superiore (sangiovese di Romagna) their sparkling contender. It can be either to the hillier northern sites, the sangiovese The soft ruby hue of the Ora is typical of sangiovese. slightly sweet or dry, though the locals pre- grows bigger and more tannic. Look for the The nose is ample and intense, with notes of red currant, fer the latter. The light frizziness and dried Avi on the Terroni list, once again from pro- raspberry, plum and aromas of leather, liquorice and un- cherry notes go perfectly with a plate of ducer San Patrignano. It’s a red so elegant dergrowth. The palate reveals freshness and elegance, thinly sliced prosciutto di Parma. And, while and memorable that you may be tempted to and well-balanced tannins. The grapes are handpicked you may have put Lambrusco onto a “do not book a flight to the motherland. But if that’s at their perfect ripeness, usually in the middle of Sep- imbibe” list after its sweet version exploded not in the cards, visit us instead. tember, and are aged in large oak barrels for the right in North America in the 70s, have no fear: time to its appropriate maturation. Further bottle ageing the new Lambrusco has come a long way by Gianna Sami before sale. Ora can be paired with various courses of from that sticky sweet stuff you remember. Romagna’s traditional cuisine, like tagliatelle with ragù, Trust me, it will be the wine you toast with sheep and goat cheeses, roasted and grilled . at your next holiday party. by Max Stefanelli TASTING EMILIA-ROMAGNA 10 11 TASTING EMILIA-ROMAGNA

TERRONI CHEF GIOVANNA THEY’RE AN UNLIKELY DUO, ALONZI PROFILES TWO OF HER BUT WHEN THEY COOK KITCHEN COLLEAGUES. TOGETHER MAGIC HAPPENS.

any given day, you are likely to front of an old house sitting at the heart ON find in Bar Centrale’s tiny kitchen of a peach orchard. There I found two old ① Many speculate as to its two chefs, Fabio Moro and Davide Della farmers sitting down to lunch in the shade why the people of this Bella, hard at work creating dishes that re- of a gorgeous grape vine. Exhausted and dual-region are so tem- flect the rich flavours of their home, Emilia- barely able to speak I managed to mumble peramentally different. Romagna. This, after all, is the land where that I desperately needed a glass of water. The sun in Romagna is warm and ever-present, Parmigiano Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, They looked at me as if I was crazy but were thus Romagnoli are mortadella, culatello and balsamic vinegar quick to say, “Acqua? Ma scherzi? Prenditi considered warm and come from. Fabio and Davide have worked un bicchiere di vino!” I felt like I was dream- extroverted. Also, many together for nearly a year but they move ing. I was sweating profusely and could earn their living working with the security and ease of an old couple. barely stand so they did give me a glass in beach areas on the Out of their kitchen come delectable little of water. Still, they insisted I have some coast, which makes them passionate and forward. lasagne, tortelloni, passatelli, cappelletti, wine. I needed to regain my strength, they Emiliani come from the succulent porchette, braised meats, tartars said. I drenched myself with their garden interior and have been and elegant fish compositions. Fabio is old- hose and after having sipped the wine, they characterized as more er, serious and concentrated. He has a pas- even offered to drive me back! I was baffled FABIO reserved. Sort of like sion for tradition and dedication to detail; by their kindness. When I returned to the Fabio, the Emiliano and he has two children and (full disclaimer) is restaurant and told people my story I got Davide, the Romagnolo. my fiancé. While Davide, a single perennial some interesting reactions: all the people DAVIDE FROM partier, is younger and gregarious, but also from Marina said, “You’re lucky you were imaginative and enthusiastic. They come in Romagna. Probably in Emilia not even from different ends of the region, Fabio from water they would have given you.” The FROM EMILIA Emilia and Davide from Romagna. couple of Emiliani that were there could I remember learning the difference be- only say, “Yes, it’s true. Only in Romagna tween the two regions of Emilia Romagna someone would think of offering you wine ROMAGNA a few summers ago. I had heard the myth under those circumstances.” So I realized that you could tell the border of Emilia and that it was true: Emilia and Romagna are Romagna by knocking at a stranger’s home two worlds, representing two very distinct ② Ever wonder how and asking for a glass of water. If you got cultures within one beautiful region. Ravenna, a city in water you were in Emilia and if you got wine I met Fabio almost six years ago at the Emilia-Romagna, you’d be in Romagna. I thought it was just old Terroni on Queen St., after the first acquired arguably the a folk tale but I can still remember the way expansion. He was brought over to help us world’s finest collection of early Christian mosa- that glass of warm red wine tasted on that make the transition from pizzeria to restau- ics? Easy. It was the seat disgustingly hot summer day in Romagna. rant a little easier. And he came armed with of the Western Roman It was mid-August, just after noon, and I’d worldly experience, Italian chef jackets and Empire from 402-476, been running for an hour and a half in 34 scarves. I was still proudly wearing Terroni until the empire fell degree weather and was dying of thirst. I t-shirts with phrases like, “We don’t do that leaving Constantinople was in Marina di Ravenna and had made my here.” Needless to say, we didn’t take a lik- in the east the capital of the Roman world. Even way along the sunflower fields, grape vines ing to each other at first. Fabio was actually though Charlemagne and fruit orchards that lined the journey begging not to work with me. I was messy, looted the city for its from the coast to the interior. I had left the didn’t follow recipes and I had gone to treasures three times beach restaurant where Fabio, whom I’d university — not culinary school. Somehow, during the early 9th just started dating, worked, with just a bit we actually hit it off — not only in the res- century, you can still of money tucked in my socks and no water taurant, but also as a couple. Authentic find glorious mosaics at the Basilica of San bottle. My intention was to run a couple of tagliatelle alla Bolognese, tortellini and la- Vitale, the mausoleum hours, stop at a truck along the road, sagne were just a few things I learned from of Galla Placidia and fill up on a couple of piadine (see page 15 Fabio. Leading by example he taught me the Arian baptistery, for recipe) and a beer and then return to the how to be a chef; how to look at the whole to name but a few. he beach resort to dive into the sea. I was forced picture and consider every aspect of the wants. to take a break along a path leading to the kitchen; how to really realize the execution TASTING EMILIA-ROMAGNA 12 13 TASTING EMILIA-ROMAGNA

of a plate from beginning to end; how to fishermen and going out on the boat with ③ Emilia-Romagna’s ④ Federico Fellini was salads, stuffed meats are mine and braised cappelletti for me and tortellini for Fabio,” focus my energy on the right things; how to them.” I met him about three years ago dur- very name summons up born and raised in , meats are his.” The camaraderie doesn’t says Davide. The passatelli featured in be strict when need be. ing the opening of the Osteria . a boat load of history: Emilia-Romagna and not stop there: “We have very similar palates: we this recipe, rich in parmigiano and bread nd Fabio always knew that he wanted to He was one of my line cooks and he was in the 2 century B.C., surprisingly, many of the love fatty, greasy things and we are very pas- crumbs and served in a capon broth is a Mark Emilio Facetious, a director’s memories of be a chef. At 13, he asked his parents if he this funny, crazy, young Italian kid who per- Roman consul, had a road the seaside village seep sionate. Plus, we are both in tune with new classic Romagnolo dish. The second recipe could go to culinary school. “I was raised in formed impressively at all the stations of my named Aemilia built in into a number of his films. trends and cooking methods, and we both they chose is bollito parmigiano from the my family’s restaurant. I remember going kitchen. He was already fantastic at making his honour that connected Today, Fellini, his wife, love learning and trying new things. We just Emilia region. It is a simple dish requiring with my mom to work and drying cutlery in roasts and stuffing anything with pork, but I Rimini to Piacenza. The Giulietta Masina, and work well together.” only time, patience and prime ingredients. the kitchen. I liked the environment and it knew him as the one who might spontane- region ended up taking their son, Pierfederico, are Perhaps it’s because Fabio and Davide This is a formula that the two often apply seemed that I was good at everything I tried ously burst out in a verse of Romagna Mia on the same name. By all buried in the Cemetery are so different and yet so alike that they to their dishes. Fabio elaborates: “I am very the 6th century A.D., the of Rimini. The city even in the kitchen.” After starting out in his fam- (a popular regional folk song and anthem.) Lombards and the Byzan- named its airport after the make such a harmonious pair. I dug deeper tied to my tradition. Here in Canada, we are ily’s restaurant, he made his way throughout at any given time. I also remember Davide tines, who respectively director. and discovered more affinities: the first thing bearers of quality. We know the original Italy and France. At 23, he was working in for the way he appeared like a tiger in a cage called their territories they want to eat when they return to Italy taste; we know what things in Italy taste Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris, then anytime a pretty girl sat anywhere in that and Romania, is piadina. It’s a street food from Romagna like, and we search for an alchemy to reach Rome. Remembering what he calls his small restaurant. He returned to Terroni last controlled the area. By whose tastiness is tied to the experience the best results with primary ingredients most important experience at Bacco, a well- spring after working a year in a Michelin- the time Italy unified, the of eating it. And it’s the first of the recipes that are not like what we’re used to finding region went back to its regarded restaurant in Barletta, he recalls: starred restaurant in Venice. He now seems original name of Emilia. featured in this issue! “Piadina is the first in Italy. And of course in our minds they are “The chef there was Cosimo Cassano, who a different person; older, more mature and Finally, in 1947, Emilia- thing I want when I get home,” says Davide. the flavours of childhood.” Davide agrees, was amazing and quite famous at that point. determined. Romagna was assigned. “I have tried to make it here but, honestly, saying, “I don’t like making pairings that are It was particularly great because in the When I asked Fabio about him he said, I get very upset when people call it tortilla. too extreme and that can become off-setting kitchen there were just four young guys and “It’s been great to find that Davide has I start with one stuffed with prosciutto, after a while, like you can’t have more than the chef. I worked 16 hour days. I tried really grown so much and has new ideas and new squacquerone and arugola and I usually eat a bite of a particular dish. Those dishes are hard to impress him and it worked because experiences to draw from. He has great two. Of course, that’s dinner for two people.” not enjoyable. I want to create something he increasingly gave me more responsibility integrity; we hardly ever disagree. In my his- Similarly, Fabio melancholically says that, that after you have the first bite you also and would even leave me in charge when he tory at Terroni I think he’s one of the guys “Being at home in Italy for me means being want the second and third forkfull. You don’t traveled. That gave me great satisfaction.” with whom I’ve worked best. With me, he’s off of work, going to the beach and leisure. think of it just as a great experience; you Fabio continued along his path making always calm, relaxed, and in a good mood.” My passion was beach volleyball, so play- think, wow, it’s good and beautiful.” his way through places like Dubai and After chatting to the two of them in- ing for 10 hours, having a piadina, drinking, For our dessert they chose something Kazakhstan before ending up at Terroni. dividually I felt like I was speaking to two ⑤ Emilia-Romagna is not smoking and even sleeping on the beach. that speaks to our heart, a fried tortellone Similarly, Davide decided that he contestants on Love Connection. Davide, just the culinary capital Piadina is what I crave because it is the food stuffed with Nutella and served on zaba- wanted to be a chef at around the age of 13. on Fabio: “Fabio and I work well together, of Italy; it’s also the auto- that you don’t make for yourself.” glione. I hope you enjoy bringing a bit of the His best friend wanted to be a cook and his mostly because it’s fun. We got along from motive industrial hub, The second dish reflects their child- richness of Emilia-Romagna home. too. We’re talking Ferrari, parents were restaurateurs. “They had a res- the start. We found balance and the jobs di- Lamborghini, Maserati and hoods, being at home and growing up taurant on the port in Riccione that served vided themselves between us. For instance, Ducati, people. in such rich culinary tradition. “We have by Giovanna Alonzi mainly fish. I remember hanging out with lasagna training is Fabio’s. I train people on the same memories of handmade pasta: photos by Per Kristiansen RECIPES 14

FABIO MORO Passatelli Ingredients: Method: 300g bread crumbs Mix all ingredients until masher directly into boil- 300g Parmigiano you obtain a smooth dough. ing broth (you can use 50g flour Cover in plastic wrap the bollito broth from the 1/2 tsp nutmeg and allow to rest at room previous recipe!). When the Zest of one lemon temperature for one hour. passatelli rise to the top, Pinch of salt and pepper Re-knead the dough for serve with more hot broth about 10 minutes and and Parmigiano. allow to rest for another 15 minutes. To make the passatelli, press the dough through a handheld potato

Salsa Verde Bollito Parmigiano Ingredients: Method: Ingredients: Method: 100ml extra-virgin olive oil In a mixer, purée all ingre- 2 small carrots Divide the carrots, celery, 100g parsley dients until it resembles a 2 celery stalks onions, pepper corns, cloves, 1 boiled egg yolk cream. 2 white onions bay leaves and olive oil into 40ml vinegar 20 pepper corns two pots. Gently sauté the 3 anchovies 2 bay leaves vegetables until soft. Cover 1gr capers 2 cloves the vegetables in each pot 1 garlic clove 1 hen with 5 litres of water each 70g bread crumbs 500g beef brisket and boil for 30 minutes. Add Salt and pepper to taste 1 tongue the hen, brisket and oxtail 200g oxtail bones in one pot and the tongue in Salt to taste the other. Reduce the heat to 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil simmer, cover and cook for about four hours. Serve the meat hot with salsa verdé on the side.

DAVIDE DELLA BELLA La Piadina Romagnola Ingredients: Method: into circles about 20 cm in THE BERKSHIRE 100g all-purpose flour Make a mound of flour on a diameter. Heat a non-stick 20g olive oil board and add oil and salt pan until very hot and cook “COLLECTION” 80g warm water in the middle. Add water a the piadina, flipping it only AVAILABLE Pinch of salt bit at a time, all the while once (they’re cooked when whisking with a fork until dark, caramel-coloured EXCLUSIVELY you have a smooth dough. bubbles appear). Fill them with whatever you please AT TERRONI Divide the dough into 80g but chef Davide suggests balls, wrap them in plastic stracchino cheese, arugola and allow to rest for 20 and prosciutto. minutes. Roll out balls

Tortellone di Nutella Zabaglione Ingredients: Method: Ingredients: Method: 250g all-purpose flour Mix all the ingredients, sealing the base of your 6 egg yolks Whisk all of the ingredients 250g Nutella except the Nutella, together triangle around your finger 6 tbsp sugar over a bain-marie until you 1 egg and knead for at least 8 (if this is too complicated, a 10 tbsp marsala reach a temperature of 65 50g orange juice minutes. Cover in plastic shape works as well). Pinch of salt degrees Celsius. Remove 10g icing sugar wrap and rest the dough Deep-fry in vegetable oil for from heat and continue 10g melted butter in the fridge for half an three minutes and dust with whisking for a couple of 15g Grand Marnier hour. Roll out the dough icing sugar. Serve on warm minutes. Serve warm. Pinch of salt and cut out 12 3 x 3 inch zabaglione. squares. Place a tablespoon of Nutella in the centre of each square. Seal two opposite ends of the square to form a triangle and twist, EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH 16 17 EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH

Just a 19 year- “Have you seen that Facebook photo of as he touches Max’s shoulder. He turns to me old kid when him? The one where he’s got no shirt on and whispers, “Max tries real hard, and he’s in Jamaica?” Kari Watson, controller of all very fast — not like I used to be. I would have he first worked things Terroni, is upstairs in the office of the been half-drunk back there.” at Terroni, restaurant’s Queen Street location on a re- Albion started at Queen Street after Albion has cent Friday night, and she’s blushing. “Once graduating from high school. “You were been around in a while I just go and look at it because probably the first person who ever talked to he’s so f—king cute. It’s just such a pick-me- me. You took my resume,” he tells me. I have the block. His up.” The shirtless wonder to whom Kari’s no recollection of this. “I was either going to old friend and referring is Albion Macleod, one of Terroni’s be a coffee guy or a deli guy. I just wanted colleague managers, who started as a coffeemaker ten a job. I ended up getting the coffee position Jessica Allen years ago, was fired after missing two shifts and I just loved it. Do you remember how I in a row on account of being drunk, was never wanted a day off? You made the sched- finds out just hired back five years later, and worked his ule and I just wanted to work seven days a how far he’s way from location to location before finally week.” I ask if that was on account of the come. returning to Queen Street in 2010. He has money. “Yeah, sure, because I was partying been sober for nearly three years. every single night. I’d just turned 19 and now Albion is behind the bar dealing with I had a good-paying job. I would get smashed. a take-out order. His dirty blond hair is But it was also a lot of fun. I enjoyed working pulled back into a sort of makeshift bun, he’s here. It was like a family. It was quite sweet.” sporting what looks to be a week’s worth of He pauses. “Do you remember cutting my facial stubble and his collared shirt is unbut- hair at the bar?” I wish I did, but again, I can’t toned dangerously low. A former bartender, recall the moment. “Yeah, it must have been Nathan Jesionka, coined a nickname many four in the morning. And you cut my hair off. years ago for his boss: “Chocolat” — as in I begged you to do it.” Johnny Depp. And just like his jeans, the He worked for a good year and a half nickname fits. before being let go in August of 2002. “I As he makes his rounds throughout got fired because I got so drunk before a the restaurant — scanning tables for empty shift that I just didn’t show up. I think it glasses, picking up stray napkins off the was Vince’s birthday and he had to stay and floor and greeting regulars — the 29-year- work,” he recalls. “Cosi Junior fired me. But old carries a set of keys behind his back. You we have a great working relationship now.” can hear him coming a mile away. He walks Cosi Junior, otherwise known as Cosimo with a real sense of purpose, stopping to talk Pagliacolo — and the employee of the month to a couple of regular customers, a busboy in the last issue — couldn’t agree more, sort and a host: in each instance he looks at them of. “He’s very stubborn,” he says, “but he’s a ALBION MACLEOD square in the eyes while he speaks and gen- fucking joy to work with. You can count on tly rests a hand on either their shoulder or him. You ask him to take care of something the small of their back. and he does it.” Cosimo walks over to a shelf A server approaches him and says that in the upstairs office and grabs an old photo a customer upstairs has asked if they could of the Terroni crew circa 2001. They were turn down the music in the back room. posed in front of the restaurant for some sort “Yes, of course we can do that for him,” he of Toronto Life shoot. “That’s him,” he says, says. A San Giorgio pizza that’s en route to pointing to a baby-faced boy with a crew cut. a table momentarily distracts me. When “That’s the first guy I ever had to fire.” I tell I turn back, Albion is gone. In his place is him how Albion recounted the story to me. Meagan Albrectson, a Queen Street server “Yeah,” Cosi says, “he hadn’t shown up for a who’s picking up a drink order from the bar. second shift in a row and I knew that if I took “He’s always watching,” she tells me. “and al- a walk to the park I’d find him there sleep- ways very calm. And then there’s the Albion ing. He had a habit of doing that. But before stare. Have you seen it?” I have, and it’s I went, he showed up and told me what had intense. “And he’s so graceful walking with happened. It’s hard to remember the details. his hands behind his back with those keys. It was tough. I do remember pouring him a Oh, and he loves reggae.” And just then, like beer, and one for me, too, because I was so it was scripted, the music changes to Bob nervous.” Marley and Albion makes his way from the Albion went on to work at other estab- restaurant’s iPod dock back to the bar. Max, a lishments over the next five years, manag- pizzaiolo-turned-bartender, tells Albion, who ing his addiction along the way. Then, in keeps tabs on the restaurant’s alcohol inven- 2005, Anna Mammoliti — GM of the former tory, that they’re down to one bottle of Arche, Balmoral Terroni and just opened Price a croatina from . “Perfect,” he says Street — hired him back. “It was an easy EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH 18

transition,” she says. “He could always do is my long day of the week,” he says. “But I “Albion is a What: the job — there was never any doubt about don’t mind. That way I can take my week- fantastic story. Terroni Yonge St. that — and he was very honest about what ends off and be a family man.” He grins, and I’m very proud he was going through. He was reaching out I notice that although his face is now chis- Where: almost, wanting people to know and want- eled, he hasn’t lost his dimples. Family is of that guy.” 1095 Yonge St. ing to be held accountable.” Anna’s brother, his partner of four years, Lesa LaPointe — a Cosimo Terroni owner Cosimo Mammoliti remem- former Terroni sommelier who’s gone on Mammoliti When: bers being apprehensive about rehiring him. to build the wine lists at Libretto, Enoteca Sunday to Wednesday “But I also had a lot of faith in the people Sociale and Parts & Labour — and the baby 11:30 to 22:00 that wanted to hire him back,” he explains. girl growing in her belly. “You know, she’s 23 Thursday to Saturday “If they believed in him and wanted to give weeks today,” he says. “It’s pretty crazy, huh?” 11:30 to 23:00 him a second chance then I was behind it.” Albion pauses, and then proceeds to tell me From Balmoral, Albion moved on to the about a little heart-to-heart he’d had recently Who (who made it look so good, that is): old Victoria St. Terroni (now Osteria Ciceri with Vince Mammoliti, head of Terroni on Giannone Petricone Associates, e Tria) and played an integral role with the Queen, who recently became a father. “He Small /Andrew Di Rosa & Bartosz opening of Terroni on Adelaide in 2007, said to me, ‘You know what, Albion? It’s so Gawdzik, Commute. where he soon became head bartender. nice to be thinking about this, rather than The irony of managing the alcohol in- all the bullshit you wasted time on before.’ I Why: ventory at Terroni Queen St. where he used really liked that. All that nonsense that’s so Because uptown Toronto needs to be a bartender with a drinking problem, easy to get caught up in. I’m so happy to be a little Terroni. (Sorry for the is not lost on him. “It was challenging for thinking about this.” long wait, Balmoral regulars. We sure. When I hit rock bottom and was still At 10:30 pm there’s still a line-up but missed you.) bartending, I knew it had to end.” He had his things are under control, which means that last drink about three years ago at an airport Albion can go upstairs to the office to do in Vancouver, after visiting his mother in some administrative work. Laid out in a neat Victoria. It was also the trip where he met his grid in front of a computer are a series of father, for the first — and only — time. “He neon green and pink sticky notes covered was less than an ideal father, sure. But I’m in handwriting. “It’s very old-fashioned,” happy we had that moment,” he says. Albion Albion says when he sees me chuckling. looks down at his shoes before continuing. “Some people might need a computer but I “Then I got to the airport and my flight was need to write everything down because I’ve held up so I got smashed. And that was that.” learned that the most important thing in this His father died not too long after Albion business is accountability, because if some- met him. He pauses, and looks up towards one asks you to do something a couple times the ceiling as he considers the date. “A year and you forget, then they lose trust in you.” ago tomorrow, actually.” I’ve known Albion I’m certain that he’s not just referring to his for nearly a decade and while I’ve spoken Terroni responsibilities. There’s also a black with him before about some of these times leather Moleskin on the desk, with “Big Al” in his life, I’m floored over his recounting of printed out from a digital label maker stuck how these momentous events unfolded, in on top. It’s busting at the seams with wine succession. Before I can open my mouth, he lists, grocery lists, business cards, a list of moves on. restaurants to eat at, ideas for an upcoming “If you want to hear my life story though, staff meeting and a list of people to call. His you should really come to a meeting.” Albion mom is at the top of that one. “You can count started attending Alcoholics Anonymous on me if you need something done,” he says. meetings on January 18, 2009. After a year, As we get up to go back downstairs, I he worked up the courage to speak. Now, ask him about the tattoos that run up his left he often speaks at treatment facilities and arm. But first he opens up his shirt to show has talked in front of large groups where he me Lesa’s name inked over his heart. Around shares his story and spreads a hopeful word his wrist are the middle names of his three about this affliction. “It’s a beautiful thing,” brothers. And just above that is a pair of spar- he explains. “AA teaches us to make peace rows. “Prisoners used to get them tattooed with the past, however difficult, and grow when they were freed. So I got them when I into our future.” I ask him if he still feels the gave up booze.” Higher still, on the side of need to attend regularly. “Oh yeah. I'll always his bicep, are elephants. “Because there are attend. It’s a place of love, of kindness.” some things I never want to forget.” And be- Another pause. “The essence of the program side them is the head of a lion, “just because is to teach you to be a better person.” they’re strong.” He looks me square in the Despite starting work at eight in the eyes. “And I’m starting to feel that way.” morning, Albion shows no sign of slowing down at the 12-hour mark in his shift. “This by Jessica Allen SAPEVI CHE by Rick & Sandra Kang 20 21 DISH IT OUT

EXTRA, EXTRA! YOU HEARD IT HERE FIRST, FOLKS. OUR CUSTOMERS DISH ON WHAT THEY’RE MOST EAGER TO EAT THIS HOLIDAY SEASON.

Tortelloni, eh? You Alexander Seuuecke, a German businessman of few veggie offerings for his vegan relatives. The Christmas know, they’re Don’ ask me why, words, has rarely missed a lunch at the Adelaide bar. dinner is a traditional roast with all the mouth-watering modeled after but somewhere between Venus’s belly Modena an’ Bologna, He is the first to arrive and leaves to start his workday accompaniments. button… she check in at some malfamata* inn... before the majority of pa- Ted Pearce is a mellow

A comic by rick & sandra Kang *seedy trons ask for butter on their man with serious love for bread. He swears we have history and languages. And Then he run to the kitchen, the best in just as soon as he’s asked full of inspiration an’ make the city. So naturally when about his family’s holiday the first tortellone… asked what dish he most food traditions, he starts looks forward to during the talking about a traditional holidays, his answer was Dickensian dinner of goose short, savoury and to the and other fowl. The family point: ox tail, a slow-cooked got sick of bird after a while hearty dish, similar in style and has moved on to beef, to an osso buco. which is roasted and served with the classic sides cour- Local market commentator tesy of the dinner’s host, and robust personality Pearce’s daughter. …An’ the maiale** innkeeper, he spies on her-but Wolfgang Klein has a all he see is her navel… veritable stockpile of Stephen Kitt, a client **pig obser-vations and opinions, services lead for Aveda which he is always bursting and one of Toronto’s best to share with eager dressed gents, has patron- No, no, no. They’re actually listeners. Yet, upon arrival ized the Terroni Queen St. based on the for lunch, he’s the one bar nearly every Saturday turtle-shaped architecture of doing the inquiring about for the last decade. Depend- 17th century Modena-which what food-wine pairing ing on his mood, he either reminds he will most enjoy (99 per orders the Smendozzata me, I’ll have the squash cent of the time he settles pizza or the San Nicola di tortellini… on canna a mare Bari. What’s he looking for- Yeah? and a couple of 3oz glasses ward to eating this holiday I heard it was actually this small of nero d’Avola.) There season? “Plum pudding. Es- town in Castelfranco was no shortage of answers when asked which dish he pecially when you burn it and bring it to the table flam- Emilia, and the broad was Lucrezia most anticipates during the holidays. But his mother's ing. It’s like fireworks.” Borgia... Christmas sugar cookies top the list. Our two special guest reporters, Olivia Mammoliti

Actually, tortellini you Dennis Jun is a humble young professional whose life and Lilah Heslip, are also our youngest. And this pair stuff with veal, prosciutto crudo, But tortelloni? is tethered to computers. He joins us every morning as of eight year olds got up close and personal not with a You stuff how mortadella, parmigiano and a touch Great- you like-asparagus, soon as the doors open, for a cappuccino and a side of Terroni regular, but with the Cake Boss himself, of nutmeg, served with broth so can I Buddy cod, squash... Simple or cream. eat now sauces-butter, tech-talk. Asked for his fave holiday dishes, he takes Valastro, who was in town recently to promote his or what a li’l parmigiano here? a moment, then admits, "I'm not really a holiday guy. new book, Baking with the Cake Boss. What’s he most an’ sage… Soup?" Dennis represents those disinterested about the excited about eating this holiday season? Turns out he frantic season: those who take simple solace in a warm likes his turkey at Thanksgiving and, “for Christmas,” bowl of homemade soup. And on Christmas Eve, when he tell the youngsters, “my wife makes frittelle — these our doors are open, he will arrive for exactly that. fried , which are really wonderful.”

Simon Chong is a warm, super friendly half-Chinese by Quinn Danielis, Irene Dongas, Kio Reid Brit businessman who arrives at Bar Centrale just as our and two special guest reporters doors open at 8:00am and sits solo with a coffee and a frit- tata. He looks forward to two meals during the holidays: Christmas Eve, his family traditionally does Indian fare, which includes chicken vindaloo, bindhi bhaji, and two PAST TENSE / FUTURE TENSE 22 23 PAST TENSE / FUTURE TENSE

WHERE WE’VE BEEN ① ⑥ ⑤ November 4 Is that Max Stefanelli checking out a new space in downtown Los Angeles? It sure is. Stay tuned! ① May 19 Terroni was in good culinary company when we participated in the an- nual Empty Bowls charity at The Gardiner ⑥ November 8 Two Terroni represen- Museum, which helped raise over $15,000 tatives, 13-year-old Alessia Mammoliti- for Anishnawbe Health. Ladling home- Morin and 10-year-old Matteo Mammoliti, made soups into beautiful potted bowls received the award for the city’s best Italian were some of our favourite chefs, includ- restaurant from Now Magazine for 2011. ing Suzanne Baby from the Gallery Grill, Jamie Kennedy from Gilead café and Keith ⑤ Froggett from Scaramouche.

② June 30 When the Fellini Exhibition opened this summer at the TIFF Bell Light- box theatre, Terroni was on hand to help cater the gala reception at the Consulate General of Italy.

② × September 9 – 11 Terroni teamed up with the folks at the pop-up Grey Goose Soho House, to help feed, well, basically every celebrity alive during TIFF. WHERE WE’RE GOING » October One of our wine producers, ⑧ Beppe di Maria of Carvinea (along with superstar oenologist Riccardo Cotarella) ⑦ Our former office sweetheart, Tara won the coveted tre bicchieri from Gam- Downs, is one of the founders and operators bero Rosso for his “Frauma,” a blend of of Tomorrow, a west-end gallery dedicated aglianico and petit verdot. You can try it, to bringing international contemporary along with other wines from Carvinea, art to Toronto. They’ve got works from the exclusively at Terroni. And did we mention young Swiss artist Tobias Madison coming that Beppe happens to the be father of this in February 2012 and Anna de Vries from the magazine’s publisher? Netherlands in March. 163 Sterling Road ③

③ October 30 Terroni staff helped raise ⑧ Server extraordinaire Hanna Puley close to $14,000 at a Halloween-themed from Terroni Queen is the production de- fundraiser for one of their own: Vladimir signer for the sketch comedy troupe Tony Fialio Fernandez (October 2, 1965 to Ho (visit tonyho.ca, for links to their videos December 12, 2011.) and upcoming shows.) She’s also hand- ⑨ Nicholas Carlino, a Terroni employee crafted all the incredible props, including since 2003 (not to mention a cellist, sculp- ④ this amazing paper gannet, for Heligoland tor, cyclist, barrista and restaurant manag- Follies, a free show at U of T’s Hart House er) has co-hosted a monthly hip hop night held on the first Thursday of every month, with Jeremy McRoberts (a former Terroni until March. deli master) on the second Sunday of every month since 2009. Sweaty Betty’s, 13 Oss- ⑨ ⑦ ington Ave, from 10pm until 2am.

‡ Choir! Choir! Choir! Meagan ④ November All-star Terroni bartender ③ Albrechtson and Caitlin McConkey-Pirie, Ian McGrenaghan, who left us for meatier both servers at Queen St., are members of pastures at The Black Hoof, has opened his this Toronto-based singing sensation that own spot, along with fellow Hoof alumnus, started in February 2011 and boasts over a Colin Tooke. We’ll be drinking bourbon thousand Facebook members. Every Tues- and downing tacos at Grand Electric seven day night, the group gathers to sing their nights a week! 1330 Queen St. W. guts out. Visit choirchoirchoir.com for photo by: James Di Donato videos and more info. THE MAILBAG 24

by Natalie Urquhart photos by Stephanie Palmer

Dear Terroni, Hot Hostess Oh I can't have Caesars. I drank too many once and I'm a little annoyed. I came up from the threw up in my hair. Have you ever tried washing Clamato out of States on business. IMPORTANT busi- extensions? Disaster. Wait...what? It's a salad? Hold on, because you ness. I took my clients to Terroni because I are blowing my mind. With bacon and anchovies? had heard rave reviews, but when I ordered Sommelier Please, the Caesar is so 80's. The only time I want to my meal I was told you do not have Caesar see a Caesar salad is at the airport in a wrap when there is nothing salads with chicken. I am on the Atkins diet else to consume, and even then you might want to think twice. The and it is my go-to food at an Italian restau- Caesar salad is named after Caesar Cardini, who owned a restau- rant. Why don't you have Caesar salads? rant in Tijuana in the 1920's. He created the salad out of left-over in- gredients in his kitchen when he needed to feed his hungry guests. CAESARLY pissed off, Years later, the salad is still mistaken as a classic Italian recipe. Al- though the man who created the dish may have been born in Italy, it Todd Chambers is not traditional Italian fare. You will find that our menu stays true Sales Rep for D.P. Pharmaceuticals to the authentic Italian experience. Mamma What? You want the anchovies? Okay. I make you the pasta with the anchovies. What? You don't eat the carbs? Okay, is no problem. I make you the pizza instead.

Dear Terroni, Hot Hostess Oh, I never read menus. I just let my dates order How is anyone who doesn't speak Italian for me. supposed to understand your menu? As Sommelier Just like a wine list, a menu can sometimes be a bit soon as I saw all of those Italian words I intimidating. For wine, you can always rely on your sommelier to panicked! I just pointed at something and help you find exactly what you’re looking for, and food should be nodded when my server came over! What no different. Ask your servers what something is and how it should is a non-Italian speaker supposed to do? be pronounced. That is what they are there for. And don't let their tattoos and weird haircuts scare you! I promise that under those Heather Smith shaggy bangs they are friendly, helpful and they know the menu Yonge and Lawrence backwards and forwards. Don’t be shy. Your server certainly isn't— just look at that outfit! Mamma Madonna, ma stiamo scherzando? Volete che vi imboc- chi pure? Minchia! Gli ingredienti dopo tutto sono scritti in inglese, usate un po' d' intuito invece di starvi a lamentare. E che cazzo!

Dear Terroni, Hot Hostess What are you doing here? I told you that you have Ok. So I know your menu says no substitu- to stay at least 10 feet away from me in public. Text me later, though. tions, BUT I really, really hate mushrooms Sommelier Sigh. I don't even know where to begin. Wait, yes I cuz they are GROSS, so if you could take do. Turn your hat around. Actually just take it off. Okay. Here it them off the San Giorgio and hook me up goes. We’re not trying to reinvent the wheel here. In fact, we don’t with some pineapple action that would be want to reinvent or interpret classic dishes. We simply want our sweet. What happened to the customer is customers to have the experience of eating those dishes in the always right? Cuz Pizza Pizza agreed with same way that they’ve been enjoyed for generations. That is why me on that one. Stuffed crust, yo!, there are no substitutions or modifications. So why not trust us for one evening? Justin LeDrew Mamma What? You don't like what I make you? But I make it with Ryerson Student, 1st Year, Media Studies my whole heart. So you are breaking my heart. Is that what you want ® to do? Take off that hat. P.S. That hostess is hotter than Classico Adriana Lima.