www.theolivepress.esll about a Campiña the press - May 05 - 18, 2011 1 AMay 2011 L A 12-page Olive Press insiders guide Treasure hunt along the Via Augusta Jon Clarke is blown away by the stunning, little-visited gems of the Campiña, once one of Europe’s most important regions

T was knocking on for three in the afternoon and we still hadn’t thought about lunch. Scrabbling around on the side of a hill, overgrown with long rye grass and raggedy unkempt , I felt like a kid Iin a sweet shop for the first time in years. Hot? Yes, but it was just as the local archaeologist had described it: Topped with a medieval castle, now in ru- ins (see picture above), and with a river running beside it, the hillside was literally one big burial ground full of Roman artefacts and pottery. Not a sign in sight - nor a fence to stop you wander- ing in - we were soon crunching over ancient fragments of porcelain mugs, bowls and olive vats, known locally as anforas, some still adorned with the burgundy red paintwork typical of the times. Incredibly, this is one of hundreds of practically undis- turbed archaeological sites in the area known as La Campiña, basically a huge rolling plain that sits be- tween the celebrated cities of Sevilla and Cordoba. This should not come as a surprise though, for the key towns of the Campiña sit near the Via Augusta, that in Roman times was one of the busiest highways in the world. For nearly 2,000 years the shifting grains of civilisation – from the Romans to the Moors and from the Vandals to the – shunted armies and plied their trades along what is now more commonly known as the A-4 national highway. Largely an area of rolling agricultural land, loosely fol- STRATEGIC: Ancient lowing the course of ’s river, few peo- Carmona was once ple stop to even ponder the importance of this route as a key Roman town, while (inset) ruined castles line the Turn to Page 2 nearby countryside the olive press - May 05 - 18, 2011 2 3 the olive press - May 05 - 18, 2011 2 www.theolivepress.es www.theolivepress.es 13 BALCONY ON3 THE WORLD: La Campiña special La Campiña View towards from Carmona and (left) From Page 1 convent in and including one which has a small A time of chaos and Christian fer- and scattered around are nu- Marchena elephant statue, it kept us occupied vour, it became almost as sacred merous white-walled cortijo they bomb along at 110 k/ph between for much of the morning. as the Holy Land when the Pope an- the two principle Andalucian cities. farmhouses, many in ruins, From here we were off towards Pal- nounced a crusade ‘to fight the infi- with lines of proud palm trees Moors the pity. For, as logic prevails, this ma del Rio, another ancient town, dels’ in Spain. 60-mile expanse of prime farmland be- hinting at happier times. right by the Guadalquivir river. Heralding enormous bloodshed, You are here though for queaths one of the richest tapestries of I’d done my reading, in particular a bands of Knights Templar rode to historical remains and settlements any- the towns, with Marchena, recent book by American historian Spain to try and clinch back the Posadas and Almodovar where in the world. Mary Lee Settle, which really put the Muslim country for the Christians. Practically unknown even here in Spain, del Rio all springing sur- river and route in perspective. By the mid-13th century both Sevilla prises, while Osuna is a the towns of Ecija and Carmona, as well It had been right back in 152BC and Cordoba were in their hands. as nearby Osuna, Marchena, La Roda gem of significant propor- when Cordoba was the biggest city Most of what fell in between be- tions. and Palma del Rio are delights, which in Europe. It ruled over Betica, the came a shifting line of anguish, with for their size are all the more remark- During Roman times, richest province in the Roman Em- the Kingdom of Granada and its Urso, as it was known, was able. pire, providing Rome with most of its outposts of Ronda and Os- Full of grand townhouses, expansive well connected and there was great olive oil, as well as wool, wheat and somehow staying intact for a further wealth made here from olive oil in una is said t o archaeological sites and, best of all, a copper. two centuries. have a higher concen- staggering large number of charming particular. A little further downstream, Santi- But it had been a key strategic place tration of palaces than boutique hotels, they are in many ways ponce, near Sevilla, is even older even Venice or Vienna, more impressive than their famous big since Iberican times, a fact easily From the frying having been established after the Storks make their proven by its huge (and sadly rather and walking down the sisters either side. Romans sent the Carthaginians neglected) necropolis burial site grand Calle Sevilla, it Even better, you won’t find yourself packing at Italica in 206BC. Its nests, lizards hop is hard to argue; its fa- shoulder to shoulder with tour groups, or that can be found a five minute walk broad paved streets once boasted off kerbs, and above the town. cades are some of the barked at by tourist-weary waiters, as is an amphitheatre for 25,000 specta- most intricate I have often the case in Sevilla and Cordoba. pan into the While important in Roman times it tors – still an incredible place to visit farmhouses are ever seen, one the Pa- Ecija is particularly fascinating by virtue was in the 16th to 18th centures today - and it was the birthplace of that it truly thrived. Then sitting at lacio del Marques de la of its geography. For the city of 42,000 two emperors Trajan and Hadrian. scattered about Gomera, conveniently people is often described as the hot- the heart of the richest agricultural Both later became important Moor- region in Spain, many of its farmers now a hotel. test in Europe – frequently the hottest breadbasket It is difficult to get a sense of those From here, on the ad- ish cities, with Cordoba in the 10th had been enticed in from abroad, in the world – due to its location in a century becoming the heart of the violent times as you head along the vice of the local archae- dip in Spain’s steamiest region in sum- from Germany and France, with the Islamic Empire, said to boast 3,000 sleepy backroads that meander promise of land and livelihoods. ologist, we were up mertime. as the Amazona, emerged two Milleni- gently rolling, and the six towns on our through the La Campiña region. early on a fascinating man settlement with thousands of um later without even a scratch. journey were no more than half an hour mosques, 80,000 shops and 900 The Bourbon revival under Carlos III Termed the ‘frying pan of Europe’, the public baths. The countryside, which became so tour of the rustic hinterland. homes. mercury occasionally hits 52 degrees Sometimes called the City of Towers, apart. brought investment to the deserted Looking across the huge empty By the 16th century Sevilla had final- valuable to Spain in the days of Em- countryside. Trade was booming Taking the road to the village of El (126f) in summer, when it is said you Ecija (pronounced Ess-i-ha) has the feel But don’t expect to be blinded by breath- pire, gently rolls with crops of corn, Rubio (meaning The Blond, and tes- plain in the blazing heat, listening to of a mini-Sevilla, its cobbled streets full taking scenery. The Campiña is actually ly taken over in size and importance, with the Americas, via Sevilla. can fry an egg on its pavements. thanks to its monopoly on trade with wheat, olives and oranges. tament to the Northern European the wind and the screech of a kite, The truth is, apart from a very few days of atmosphere and equally attractive rather flat and treeless, basically full of Its aristocratic families, in particular we agreed this was the sort of se- Spain’s colonies in the Americas. This is certainly the Andalucia of leg- the Dukes of Osuna, were among farmers who once settled here), we when the Terral wind buildings. wheat, making this the breadbasket of end; Day labourers, so famed for the had soon found our own private dig. cret spot that makes Andalucia such It has its fair share of pal- Southern Spain. But it is perhaps in the interim - be- the richest in Spain and profligate comes from the Sahara tween the 11th and 15th centuries region, still sit around in the shade As we sat in the remains of the a wonderful region. to the south, the place is aces, more than two doz- But under a cobalt blue Spanish sky, builders, endowing the town with a And yes we did make lunch. This is when the Arabic Moors ruled much drinking beers until summoned to dozen convents, renaissance palac- medieval fortress - our pockets full actually quite bearable . . It was no surprise en, one the Palacio de los our spirits were up, as we approached work. Storks make their nests on of fragments - we imagined how Andalucia, after all, and at 4pm, we Granados, which is now Carmona. of Spain - that the area became so es and, the crowning achievements, . and indeed designed to revered. steeple tops. Lizards hop off kerbs, this hill may have once been a Ro- were not even the last to arrive. deal with the heat. to discover that a hotel. To sit in its pretty Built on an easy-to-fortify escarpment, the Collegiate and University. It’s narrow streets keep- Carmona is one of patio is to be transported Carmona is best approached from the ing out the midday sun back 200 years. Eastern Cordoba exit. Taking you up as best as possible and the oldest towns Best in the spring or sum- past the Puerta de Cordoba, a mish its buildings mostly de- mer, in the heat, with the mash of Roman, Moorish and Renais- signed around leafy in Spain ever present sound of sance styles, you are immediately in the courtyards with foun- water trickling from foun- beautifully preserved old town. tains and other water tains and into the stylish Look for the signs for the Casa de Car- features, cooling the air down. alberca-style pool. Its rambling roses, mona hotel, a 16th century nobleman’s The heat however, is a red herring, for bougainvillea and jazmine running riot, house, which is a great place to have a Ecija should really be best known for the smell of orange blossom almost poke around and the best spot to leave its palaces and a series of Roman finds overpowering. your car. – mosaics, plaques and statues – which Our tour along the so-called Roman Already a favourite among the English- are said to be the envy of Italy. Route of Betica was an incredibly easy in-the-know the chips on the paintwork On one celebrated dig, a statue, known drive; the roads are good, the terrain give it that genuine feel of a cash-poor aristocrat. But it is very charming nonetheless. SPLENDOUR: Palace From here step in Ecija while (top) out into the Middle a typical view of the Ages, the windy Campina streets leading to leafy squares and some of the best restaurants in the region. It was no surprise to discover that Carmona is one of the oldest towns in Spain, being the site of human habi- tation for over half a million years. It certainly feels old at the ancient Roman necropolis and amphitheatre, where a guard- ian ushered us to a parking space shouting in hilari- www.restaurantelayedra.es ous English: ‘Ro- (34) 954 144 525 man remains, stop here!’ www.elrincondelasdescalzas.com A vast site of thou- sands of tombs, (34) 954 191 152 many you can climb down into, c/Descalzas 1, 41410 Carmona 4 5 4 the olive press - May 05 - 18, 2011 La Campiñawww.theolivepress.es Lawww.theolivepress.es Campiña special the olive press - May 05 - 18, 2011 5

HE La Campina area south of the Gua- dalquivir River is rich in countryside and natural splendour but it is also home to a deep historical and cultural Tlegacy, littered with beautiful churches, for- tresses and archeological sites. Undoubtedly one of the best ways to discov- er these sites is to follow Andalucia’s Roman route, known as the Ruta Baetica Romana. On the old Roman road Baetica was the name used by the Romans Other highlights include to refer to the southern part of Spain taken ROMAN SPLENDOUR: Cordoba’s Templo Romano from the word Baetis, the ancient name for Wendy Williams follows the Santa Maria de la the Guadalquivir River. the Roman Baetica route Asuncion collegiate church Today the route, awarded the Andalucian built by Pope Paul the 3rd in 1534, which boasts Digging up the past Tourism Prize in 1999, passes through thir- around La Campina taking teen towns and cities including Sevilla, Ca- works including five Jose diz and Cordoba. a trip back in time… Ribera El Espanoleto paint- Much of the route, from to Cor- ings. doba takes you through the Campina reveal- traces of six large public buildings, around 50 The Torre del Agua archae- ing a wealth of history along the way. houses, a theatre dating from the Augustan era, ological museum features In Santiponce, a town of just under 7,000 and a 25,000 capacity amphitheatre, one of the bronze reproductions of inhabitants near Sevilla, you will find the re- largest in the empire. the Lex Ursonensis, one of mains of the ancient city of Italica. One of the most important sights is the Exedra the most important Roman One of the most important House, which boasts its own baths law documents conserved sites of Andalucia’s archaeo- and gymnasium while the nearby in Spain - now housed in logical heritage, Italica was San Isidoro del Campo monastery the national archaeologi- the first settlement founded Carmona has is where the first Spanish transla- cal museum of Madrid. by the Romans outside the tion of the Bible was written. Finally, the last stop on Italian Peninsula. evidence of human Once hailed by as the Roman route that Marcus Ulpius Traianus, the settlement dating the strongest city of the Baetica, falls within La Campina first Roman emperor to be Carmona has evidence of human is Marchena, located be- born outside Italy, was born back more than settlements dating back more tween two hills. The remains of Marchena’s here in 53 AD and his succes- than half a million years. Also worth a visit is the City museum and sor, Hadrian, lived in this city half a million years The city first flourished under Ro- city walls, which surround the old medieval Interpretive Centre, located in the 16th cen- area of San Juan with a perimeter of 2400 during his youth. man rule, with two of the four main tury Marques de las Torres Palace, which Excavations on the site began gateways still remaining. meters, should definitely be traces the city through the visited. between 1781 and 1788 and have contin- Archaeologically, the most fascinating thing to be ages. ued ever since. found in Carmona is the necropolis which was in Of the four main gateways AN intact Roman family tomb dating from The burial chamber also revealed many In nearby the must built by the Romans three still To date, archaeologists have uncovered use in the first and second centuries AD. see spot is the roman baths, Most of the the first century AD has been unearthed in funerary objects including ceramic stand: the Arco de la Rosa, Carmona following emergency excavations vessels and animal remains that would located in the south-western towns come alive the Moron gateway and the part of the town, which boast at the famous Conjunto Arqueologico de have been part of an offering to the Carmona Gateway. Carmona site. dead. the largest Roman pool in the in the month of Other worthwhile stops in- Iberian Peninsula. May with local clude the Gothic-Mudejar Near the baths you will also style Santa Maria de la Mota find the Los Borricos (donkeys) festivals years. Church and the mid-17th cen- The Roman Baetica route is a fountain, an artesian well with tury San Agustin Church. a drinking trough for animals great opportunity to enjoy the The whole surrounding area regions stunning natural beau- that dates from 1769. of La Campina is archaeologically of great The parish church of la Purisima Concep- ty while learning about the his- interest, not just for the Roman ruins but tory of the place. cion is also worth a visit for the beautiful for a history that dates back half a million elliptic dome above the altar and the main Most of the towns come alive altarpiece with a 17th century wooden carv- in the month of May with lo- ing of the Immaculate Conception. cal fairs, festivals including Further down the road is the town of Ecija the popular Cruces de Mayo which was declared a site of historic-Artistic and at the end of the month interest in 1966. there is a pilgrimage to the Soak up the impressive array of palaces, shrine of El Rocio. narrow streets and plazas, not to mention the eye-catching sight of the eleven towers. For more information visit Ecija rose to prominence under Roman rule, www.beticaromana.org becoming one of the four government capi- tals of the Baetica province. WEALTH: Lines of Roman pots sit in a back room at Over the years objects of great artistic value Ecija’s archaeological museum have been found during various excavations including a sculpture of the muse of Calli- ope and several impressive mosaics. Any visit here should include a trip to the municipal history museum located in the Benameji palace which explores the town’s evolution right up to the present day, includ- ing displays of the principle archaeological finds. Other highlights include the Roman forum and the town hall, which boasts a mosaic uncovered during the excavations of a ro- man house. If you decide to follow the whole route in se- quence, your next destination is Osuna, af- ter first travelling through Almedinilla, Mon- toro and Cordoba. There are many Roman city remains in Os- una, the last community to resist Caesar, including the theatre, water reservoirs and above all the underground necropolis. The so-called La Quinta burials reveal a number of oval graves carved out of rock that date from between the 1st century BC SIGNIFICANT: Italica was the first and 1st century AD. Roman city built outside of Italy 6 the olive press - May 05 - 18, 2011 6 www.theolivepress.es www.theolivepress.es 17 the olive press - May 05 - 18, 2011 7 La Campiña special CARMONA Wealth and splendour The palaces and patrimony of La Campina are equalled only by Sevilla and Cordoba, that bookmark the region at both edges

OSUNA ECIJA

GRANDOUR: The streets of the Campina are literally heaving with the weight of history, unsurprising given the former importance of the region. There is a disproportionate number of palaces and churches and an unwarranted void of tourists in its majestic streets. Fans of architecture will be spoilt in Ecija (top left), with the various palaces in Osuna (above), the beautiful buildings of Carmona (top right) and the historic sites in Marchena (below and right).

MARCHENA 8 9 8 the olive press - May 05 - 18, 2011 La Campiña specialwww.theolivepress.es www.theolivepress.es the olive press - May 05 - 18, 2011 9

HE towns of the Campi- na are crammed full of architectural master- pieces. TAnd thankfully not any old builder is allowed to touch the Protecting our patrimony huge catalogue of stunning palaces, churches and castles. Jon Clarke talks to Osuna builder azulejos from From the Torre de Santa Cruz Monolo Sanchez who has spent restored exentuating its mar- Triana,” ex- and Convent of the Santisima ble patio and baroque stair- plains Monolo, Trinidad in Ecija to the old uni- nearly three decades renovating the cases. whose three versity and Monastery of the Full of wonderful details, it is children and Encarnacion in Osuna, one Campina’s key buildings one of the key reasons to visit brother also builder has renovated the lot. the town. work in the In total, Monolo Sanchez Or- CAPTION: company. tiz, 58, has worked on over Every detail has Costing over ORNAMENTAL: Calle San 60 key buildings around the four million euros, the de- Pedro is one of grandest area, including the historic been conserved streets in Europe walls of Sevilla and the land- velopment is mark Puerta de Sevilla in Car- from ancient meant to give mona. Roman pillars to a flavour of a many. His company Sanor is one of convent. “While It was built around the time only 30 companies in Andalu- the fascade the homeown- that the town was centrally cia to hold what is known as ers will be shar- planned by Carlos III, the pow- ‘K7’ status, which allows him ing the public erful, but austere monarch, Even more exciting - on an in- famous for his simplistic and to pitch for the plum jobs of vestment front, at least - has spaces, each repairing the region’s patri- will have their oversized palace at El Esco- to be his latest project, which rial, near Madrid. mony. involves the renovation of an- own private Since the age of 18 he has outside spaces Opposite a glorious church, other nearby palace. it is just around the corner had a close interest with his- The enormous project in which are being toric buildings. carefully split from the street, calle San Pe- Calle Carmen, which is over dro, which is often credited “I have a deep fascination EYE FOR DETAIL: Sanchez at his Calle Carmen scheme 2,500m in size, is nearing up and divided with what makes old build- with lattice to have the most ornamental completion and will count on buildings in Europe. ings tick,” he explains. “I love cludes every last detail and projects in his home town of ten beautiful, state-of-the-art woodwork,” ex- their ancient details and en- Osuna. plains Monolo, “This is an area rich in history insists that his team maintain apartments, each with their and the development is right joy bringing out the best in every single part. The best of these is at the own private garage. who has also them.” stunning hotel, Palacio Mar- boned up on in the heart of the best part of “It is often very hard work, With Sanor’s instinctive town,” explains Monolo. This is completely clear when takes considerably longer quez de la Gomera, which his stamp for preserving its his- RESTORED: Staircase at Palacio Gomera the building’s you see the impressive scale company now owns, being history. and costs more,” he explains. tory, every detail has been Two bedroom apartments drawings that he makes in “But the end result ensures run by his brother Jesus. conserved from ancient Ro- “We have overhauled the The spacious development advance of each job under- that it is definitely worth it.” This key 18th century palace man pillars to the fascade doors, refitted the window itself dates back to 1750 and in the Calle Carmen devel- taken. You can certainly see this is opulence in the extreme and the old doorways, roofs bars and cleaned up an old was once owned by a fam- opment start at 180,000 Painstakingly drafted, he in- love for detail at a couple of and it has been beautifully and rejas. religious fresco made from ily from the Ruhr area in Ger- euros. Email sanor@sanor. es or call 954811486 for more details. 10 the olive press - May 05 - 18, 2011 www.theolivepress.es www.theolivepress.es 11 the olive press - May 05 - 18, 2011 11 Wherever you are in the La Campiña world, we’re there with you around the clock.

UPLIFTING: La Roda

Expert 24/7 worldwide medical insurance from AXA PPP International.

To benefit from decades of experience in international medical insurance, contact us today on +44 (0)1892 707962 quoting reference ES2003. A Roda de Anda- Alternatively, for more details, visit lucia lies hidden www.axappphealthcare.co.uk among a sea of AXA PPP healthcare limited. Registered Office: olive groves in the 5 Old Broad Street, London EC2N 1AD, United Lsouth-eastern corner of Following Kingdom. Registered in England No. 3148119. Sevilla province. Authorised and regulated by the Financial Services A little market town sur- Authority. © AXA PPP healthcare 2008. In order to maintain a quality service, telephone calls rounded by fertile coun- may be monitored or recorded. tryside, it is situated right in the heart of Andalucia putting the 4,200 inhabit- Irving ants within easy reach of Sevilla, Granada, Malaga and even Madrid. Any visit to this sleepy town should include a stop at the Iglesia de Santa Ana, a baroque style church built between the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, and the museums of the three brotherhoods that walk through the streets of La Roda during Sema- na Santa. Washington Irving Route riving in the rich Vega of But more than anything retraces the journey taken Granada. it is known and loved by by the North American am- Irving, famous for his travellers as a stop on bassador to Spain in 1829 ‘Tales of the Alhambra’, the Ruta de Washington from Sevilla to Granada. wrote in 1829 of his long Irving. Taking in monumental and perilous journey Just one of the many towns, picturesque vil- through bandit country routes that you can follow lages and archaeological remarking that in Anda- around La Campiña, the sites the route crosses lucia “the most miserable La Campiña and the plain inn is as full of adventure of Antequera before ar- as an enchanted castle”. Fortunately for today’s traveller the conveniently sign-posted route is a little safer and there is more choice for ac- commodation but it is still a worthwhile ad- venture. And La Roda makes a good stop off point. NB. And for those who really want to follow in Ir- ving’s footsteps, you can now stay in the local Al- bergue Municipal (hostal) for just 14 euros a night, including breakfast. “It is becoming very popular understandably at that price,” explained a town hall spokesman. ADVENTURER: Irving 1212 the olive press - May 05 - 18, 2011 www.theolivepress.es La Campiña special WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

NE of the best kept secrets of Andalucia, La Campiña also has some of its finest hotels and restaurants. OIn Osuna, you should look out for PALACIO DREAMS the sumptuously appointed Ca- turning this grand old building into is often termed one of Europe’s case and appropriately grand sona de Calderón, which is one of a gem of a hotel, with fabulous at- grandest streets, full of enormous rooms to match. Andalucia’s best hotels according tention to detail and tastefulness. stunning palaces. Nearby, also check out the de- to the Michelin guide. Also in the town check out the The Palacio is no exception, with lightful Hotel Esmeralda. For pure Elena Calderón and her family grand Hotel Palacio Marquez de a beautiful courtyard, private value for money – just 32 euros have spent the past three years la Gomera, which sits on what chapel, sweeping marble stair- for a single room, including break- fast - it is hard to beat. If you are looking for something a bit more rural, then get in touch with Turismo Rural Osuna, which Casino and palace dining has cosy rustic cottages in the area known as Las Vinas. or those who like to dine in style look no further than the incred- In Écija, you are also spoilt for ible Palacio de Santaella in Ecija. Built in the eighteenth century, choice, starting with the won- the palace’s centre-piece is a beautiful cúpula (dome), which tow- derful Hotel Platería located just ers over the central staircase. a stone’s throw from the main FNowadays, under the auspices of the Socieded Tenis Club, the Palacio de square. It has a peaceful and Santaella hosts all manner of functions and events, including weddings, welcoming atmosphere, delicious baptisms and conferences. But it is hard to beat for romantic dining. home cooking and free wifi. Elegance also abounds in classy Casa Machin. The refined ambience, Also excellent value is Hotel Ciu- rendered serene by the high ceiling and subdued lighting, also make this dad del Sol – Pirula, which has an inspired choice for a romantic dinner. Specialising in fish, seafood simple but spotlessly clean rooms and northern meats, Casa Machin is a gourmet paradise. and a sunny dining terrace. And then there is more, with the wonderfully named Casino de Artesa- Over in the historic town of Car- nos. No sign of a casino these days, nor indeed any artesanos; just fabu- mona, the breathtakingly beauti- lous coffee, tasty tapas and a wonderful selection of local dishes, includ- ful Casa de Carmona is a XVI Cen- ing espinacas labradas (chopped or ‘carved’ spinach) and salmorejo, a tury renaissance palace, convert- refreshing gazpacho style soup. ed into an exquisite 33-bedroom Hispania is another good place to eat in the heart of Ecija with a great five-star hotel. Here, owner Felipe terrace and a mouthwatering mix of dishes and tapas. Guardiola Medina has fashioned Over in Osuna you would certainly want to dine at the wonderful Hotel a luxurious sanctuary, filled with Casona de Calderon, where one of the Calderon sisters Aurora has be- fine art and exquisite antiques. come something of a whiz in the kitchen. You eat in its wonderfully lit Alternatively, check out the stun- dining room, with a range of specialities including beef capaccio and ning Hotel El Rincon de las Des- almonds. Nearby you might also want to try Meson del Duque, or the calzas, which has wonderful highly-rated Casa Curro. perfumed gardens full of jasmine If looking for somewhere good to dine in Marchena, you would certainly and a constant tinkle of water DELIGHT: Santaella want to try one of the local restaurants including Casa Carillo and Casa from fountains. It has has a fine Monolo, which are always busy at lunchtime, serving up fantastic tapas. restaurant Yedra. CHARM: Casona de Calderon