From Langkawi to Glimpses of

PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Text by Peter Symes Photos by Michael Aw Peter Symes Gunild Pak Symes & Malaysia Tourism PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’

Depending on your yardstick, or which encyclopedia you consult, Malaysia boasts a collosal coast- line — 4,675 km. This area includes 2,068 km for Peninsular Malaysia and 2,607 km for eastern Malaysia, which covers the northern half of the of . Among these long coastlines, from Langkawi to Sipadan, we find some of the world’s best and most renowned dive sites.

5 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 PHOTO: MICHAEL AW Glimpses of Malaysia or most divers, Malaysian diving means Fthe island of Sipadan off in Borneo — even novices tend to get that glazed look on their faces when the word “Sipadan” is uttered. Sipadan is still a true gem, but the environmental restraints, Malaysia! which always meant that the island had limited space to offer, have recently been increased. Authorities have forced a number of dive operators to vacate their structures on the island. Sipadan, Mabul and Layang Layang are all famous names, but maybe the time has come to PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ take a further look at what Maylasia has PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ to offer? Aside from so many new dive Spa at Pangkor Laut Resort Pitcher Plants Sunset at Tanjung Rhu River, LangKawi Details of decoration on fishing boat sites just waiting to be discovered, there are also an incredible amount of excit- ing adventures above water. This country boasts cultural and natural riches like few Thailand other territories. While this magazine may be primarily Kudat for divers by divers, diving is not just diving Layang- wrecks anymore. It would be gross negligence not GRAPHIC: PETER SYMES Layang Mantanani Pulau Langkyan to take at least a brief look at a few of the Tunku Abdul Pulau Perhentian cultural and land excursions that can be Rahman Park conveniently and easily included in a dive Langkawi & Pulau Redang Pulau Tiga Pulau Payar trip to the region. Be it her dense, mysterious Labuan rainforests once haunted by head-hunters Pulau Tengol Sabah and now the home of proboscis monkeys, Pulau West hornbills and of course orang-utans, or Pinang Malaysia the exciting, dynamic capital of Kuala ( 11 states) Mataking, Lumpur, where modernity rubs shoulders East Pulau , with tradition and where you can shop till Sembilan & Talang Malaysia Mabul & PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Tanjung Salang Sipadan you drop before exploring the vibrant res- Pulau Jarak Datu at night taurant scene, or the white sand-fringed Pulau Tioman resort of Penang, Langkawi and Kuala Pangkor, with villas built on stilts over Lumpur the water in the manner of a traditional Borneo Malay fishing village — all over Malaysia Pulau Aur you’ll find reefs, tropical jungles and Pulau Sibu friendly locals who speak English as well as Malay. Borneo is also home to Mount Kinabulu, the region’s highest summit. In this way, Malaysia can be likened to a treasure trove of adventures. Some gems are already found and polished while oth- ers are still waiting to be discovered. It is so hard to choose — there are so many Overview of the main dive destinations within good dive operators in the area that it is Malaysia and the sites described in this article impossible to be equally fair to everyone

who deserves an overview here. PHOTO: PETER SYMES Orang-Utan in the Sepilok reserve PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ 6 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Malaysia has a tropical Glimpses of Malaysia climate with an average of

PHOTO: PETER SYMES 32°C and water tempera- ture 28-30°C all year round. The best diving season on the west coast is from October- The West many other smaller islands. up Malaysia’s oldest Marine marine life. Studies by the November to January- Coast Langkawi And you can guess that Park sanctuary, have been ‘World Wide Fund for Nature’ & Pulau Payar the beaches are a huge protected since 1985. The (WWF) showed diverse marine February, exactly the opposite Langkawi, a cluster of 99 attraction. The most popular park has been called a life including 36 genera of to the east coast where the islands separated from beach hangouts in Langkawi shining example of how hard , 92 other marine mainland Malaysia by the are Pantai Cenang, Burau proper conservation, good invertebrates and 45 genera season starts again in March. Straits of Malacca, is a district Bay and Pantai Tanjung Rhu. management and the of fish. of the state of Kedah in Pantai Cenang is the more promotion of eco-tourism Northern Malaysia and lies happening place where you can safeguard a healthy approximately 51 km west of can swim, water ski, jet ski, environment for future Kedah. Only four of the 99 do some sailing, boating and generations. islands are inhabited — Pulau other water activities. Burau At Pulau Payar, the largest Langkawi (the main island), Bay and Pantai Tanjung Rhu of the four islands, you will find Pulau Tuba, Pulau Rebak and have a more relaxed pace. the Marine Park Centre which Pulau Dayang Bunting. Dive-wise, however, it is the was set up and operated PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ 1 Langkawi is a duty-free nearby Pulau Payar Marine by the Fisheries Department. shopping haven offering an Park, about 19 nautical miles If you are not into water attractive range of local and south of Langkawi Island activities, check out the imported goods for those and 32 nautical miles north two hiking trails that have with a yen, dollar or euro for 2 of Pulau Pinang, that holds been constructed to enable shopping. Since Langkawi is the greatest attractions. visitors to explore and enjoy an island, it is surrounded by These islands, famous for the breathtaking views of the beautiful beaches and also varied and colourful marine surrounding sea and beyond. life that they support, offer The waters of Pulau Payar the best diving on Peninsular have an additional attraction: 3 Malaysia’s west coast. artificial reefs built from tires, The park is comprised concrete blocks and old of four uninhabited islands: boats, which over the years 1. Langakawi & Pulau Payar Payar, Lembu, Kaca and have developed into mature 2. Pulau Penang Segantang, which make reefs that are teeming with 3. Sembilan Islands and PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Pulau Jarak Shark Point Lembu Rocks Goodyear TOP: Ghost pipefish Kaca Lobster Garden Lembu INSET: Langkawi village shops Kaca RIGHT: Diving in Malaysia Pointe GardenWreck Shark Alley Pyramid Alley Rock Platform reef Point Anemone Garden RAAF Beach Segantan

Pulau Payar De Tyre Reef Plateau Coral Garden Grouper Farm Pulau Payar Marine Park

7 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The northern section of the Straits of Malacca, which Glimpses of Malaysia is one of the world’s busi- est shipping channels, may have had its draught altered significantly due to the tsu- nami that hit Asia on the 26th of December 2004, according to a report in the shipping journal, Portsworld. Water depths in parts of the Straits of Malacca could have dropped from 4000 feet (1333 m) before the quake to as low as 100 feet (33 m) and thousands of navigational aides, such as buoys held in place by mushroom-shaped anchors have been carried off to new locations. Old shipwrecks marked on charts had been relocated, joined by new wrecks that would have to be salvaged, moved or charted. PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Sembilan Islands corals, it is common to see big ter underwater visibility due to its & Pulau Jarak Further south, schools of damselfish. It is also remoteness. Dolphins and sailfish near Lumut lies Pulau Sembilan. a good site for coral scallops have been sighted here, but The dive sites here are generally and nudibranches. Among the beyond that there are probably more challenging due to the prevalent species of fish, we find well-kept secrets unknown to currents and sometimes the visi- parrotfish, angelfish, pufferfish, everyone but the most hardcore bility is not more than 2-3 metres. lionfish and moray eels. divers. Diving depth ranges from 5 m Divers would do well to explor- to 40 m. White Rock, which is ing this archipelago. The dive characterised by a lighthouse, season is busy from November has steep walls to 40 m, where through March, since one can’t groupers and snappers sleep in dive at all on the east coast the crevices and under over- during that time. The diving is hangs. In the open water, it is easy with a maximum depth of not unusual to see barracuda, 15-20 m in the interesting areas, jacks and other big pelagic spe- whereas in the deeper parts, cies. there is mostly sandy bottom.

Around Saga, Lalang, Rumbia PHOTO: PETER SYMES There is one submerged reef and Buluh, one finds nice reefs Right in the middle of the off Jarak at about 25 m depth, with lots of table corals and straits, 40 miles (64 km) off Pulau however the currents can be brain corals as well as tentacle Pangkor, lies Pulau Jarak, a small quite strong there.

corals. Around the orange daisy uninhabited island that has bet- PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ ABOVE: Fishing boats at Taryung Rhu River, Langkawi. INSET: Fishing boat, Georgetown, Penang. LEFT: Nudibranch

Western Malaysia January 2, 2005, that the wave that the quake center and Langkawi, However, official records showed that beach front, which needed cleaning & the Tsunami hit Langkawi was not a tsunami, but effectively providing shelter from the 31 people in Penang drowned after of debris. There were no casualties a ‘shadow wave’ - a normal wave huge waves that caused havoc in tidal waves hit the coastal areas. of foreign tourists reported. The situa- caused by the tsunami that passed to Thailand and other countries. The The Malaysian Association of Hotels tion is back to normal as all hotels are Langakawi, the Malaysian area clos- the north and hit the cost of Thailand wave that reached Langkawi was reported that there was no damage operating as usual. Tourist attractions est to the epicentre and the hard- hundreds of kilometers away. The very weak. The impact of the tsunami to the hotels and their surrounding are not affected. Fortunately, it’s busi- est hit towns in Thailand, reported on Indonesian mainland stood between that struck Penang was also minimal. areas and facilities, except to the ness as usual in Penang.

8 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The East Coast

Glimpses of Malaysia PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ The East Coast Peninsular Malaysia’s virtually inaccessible from east coast is often quoted as the real November to January. Dive Malaysia. A collection of fishing villages, sites are very varied, from beaches and picturesque islands and, -swept rocks close to with little industry to pollute its waters, it the Perhentians and Bidong, offers great diving. For a long time, these to gentle slopes covered islands were a secret of divers. with sea anemones around 4 Later, the exclusive resorts moved into Redang, to underwater the area. As a result, a 45 km stretch mounds in Lang Tengah. 5 of the coastline — includ- All these places also have ing Pulau Redang and its neighbouring excellent house reefs that islands, Pulau Pinang, Pulau Lima, Pulau are good for night dives or 6 Ekor Tebu, Pulau Lang Tengah, Pulau . Perhentian Besar, Pulau Perhentian Kecil, The underwater topogra- Pulau Susu Dara and Pulau Kapas — was phy usually consists of jum- declared a Marine National Park in 1991 bles of boulders that form in order to protect the area. , crevices and tunnels The reserve is an attempt to preserve carpeted with soft corals. In the wonders that are found here, and this shallow, warm water, to reverse some of the damage wrought the growth of marine life is by resort construction and over fish- prolific. While the visibility ing. Snorkelling is restricted to certain in these waters is generally 7 areas, and the Malaysian Department of excellent, extending up to Fisheries is busy building artificial reefs. 30 metres in fine weather Giant clam conditions, a combination The have a of and an overnight in an amazing display of synchronic- Pulau Kerengga Besar, a steep 8 relaxed diving atmosphere in an idyllic, rainstorm may stir up the sea floor result- ity. But even when less than ideal visibil- volcanic island that rises sharply out of laid-back setting. They consist of two ing in less than optimal visibility. ity is encountered, the unspoiled table the sea, appears to be home to various main islands — Perhentian Besar (Big Among the many varieties of marine coral formations are spectacular and the species of rays. Stingrays can be found Stopover Island) and Perhentian Kecil life, regular encounters include Jacks, abundance of hydrozoans, anthozoans, resting on the ocean bottom or winging 4. Perhentian Islands (Small Stopover Island) plus several small Yellowtail, Giant Clams, Triggerfish, Puffers, braincoral, sea fans, sea whips and sea gracefully past with manta Rays hovering 5. Redang Islands rocks and islets to the north-west, the latter Spotted Porcupinefish, Blue and Yellow cucumbers is breathtaking. Dolphins and overhead. Harp corals, nudibranchs and 6. Pulau Tangol giving the best diving. Most tourist accom- Fusiliers, Pencilfish, and huge Lionfish pilot whales can be seen in the area featherstars are common. Deeper down, 7. Pulau Tioman modation is on Perhentian Besar. Due to — that’s not forgeting the myriads of during July and August. Whalesharks are there are fields of stony corals and bar- 8. Pulau Aur the annual monsoon, the islands are tiny silver cardinalfish that jet around spotted a few times every year. rel sponges covered with alabaster sea cucumbers. Where the boulders meet the sand, there are many fish species, includ- The three most Tongot laut (temple of the sea) Perhentians ing stingrays, parrotfish and pufferfish. Pulau lies in the popular destinations Teluk Tanjung Besi middle of the Marine Park sanctuary. Kerma of the East Coast Batu Here, we find crystal-clear water, pristine Pulau Layar beaches and untouched tropical jungle are the Perhentian Rawa as well as a coastline of arresting beauty Islands, the Redang Batu with white sandy beaches. Nissan Archipelago and Perhentian Artificial . Reefs Besar Terumbu Perhentian Tiga Kecil A map of a few of the many dive Shipwreck sites around the Perhentians

PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ LEFT: Soft coral and seashell 9 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Turtle Bay Redang shrimps and occasional Spanish Tanjung dancers. Green and hawksbill Tokong turtles are common. Reef fish Glimpses of Malaysia are plentiful, and pelagic spe- cies, including manta rays and whalesharks, are frequently Gua Kawah encountered. The Redang Archipelago’s Big Seamount is considered by Big many to be the most spec- Pulau Paku Kecil Pulau Seamount tacular dive site in peninsular Redang Ma Malaysia. Lying 50 m north of Chantik Pulau the island of Lima, it rises from Housereef Lima 30 m to within 10 m of the sur- face and is covered in anem- Small Seamount ones, gorgonians, tunicates, hard encrusting corals and soft PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Marine tree corals, with boulder coral, ABOVE: Malaysian seafood. RIGHT: Diving in Malaysia Park HQ Anemone City lettuce coral, staghorn coral Terumbu Kili and acropora table corals. Pulau Kapas () World War II shipwreck jacks, silver barracudas, and its neighbouring island, located five nautical miles triggerfish, clownfish and Pulau Gemia, are two popular offshore. The outer reefs parrotfish. You may also The Redang Archipelago consists day excursion and overnight destinations on her seaward side has spot sea turtles, squid, cut- of the island of Redang, the much smaller for locals and foreign tourists seeking a good dive sites as well. Its tlefish and rays. The reefs island of Pinang and seven tiny islets.* quick gateway, as the island is just four shallow water makes it an here are home to feather- This group of islands and a marine park nautical miles from Marang. Kapas also ideal training ground for stars, hydroids, black coral, established in 1985 boasts white sandy seems to have become the refuge of divers. Thai fishing boats anemones, sea fans and beaches, crystal-clear water and spec- those who want to avoid the Perhentian caught on illegal entry in sponges as well as manta tacular coral reefs, which are among the crowd. Places to stay range from camp- Terengganu waters are shrimp, nudibranchs and richest in the country, making the area ing sites to dormitories to island resorts with also sunk here as artificial the occasional Spanish one of the best dive spots in the world. en suite facilities. The only thing that never reefs. It has good dancer. During the Tenggol The reefs of the Redang Archipelago changes on this island is the constant marine life and months of April to August, Tokong Talang are home to over 55 g e n e r a number of backpackers arriving coral despite being green and hawksbill tur- of corals, 100 species o f and departing each day. The located so close to tles come onshore to lay fish as well as 52 gen- key attraction for diving at the mainland. Fish eggs. Pulau Kapas has also Tokong Tokong Laut Burung era of stony corals, Pulau Kapas is the that populate the become a popular place The Highway including the larg- area include snap- for squid fishing especial- est boulder coral in pers, rabbitfish, ly in the month of June. Fishbowl

this half of the country. PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ Amazing Rajawali Fish to look out for are Grace Reef snappers, jacks, rabbitfish, The Tenggol group of tine coral formations and a number Gua silver barracudas, clown- islands is the most southerly of submerged rocks with excellent Rajawall fish, triggerfish and par- of Terengganu’s Marine Parks. It coral growths. The deep waters sur- rotfish. Turtles are a com- consists of Pulau Tenggol, Pulau rounding the island offer good vis- Telok Air Tawar Coral mon sight and you may also Nyireh, Tokong Timur, Tokong ibility especially during the months Garden spot the occasional cuttle- Talang, Tokong Burung and of April until June. Marine life that Tanung Pulau fish, squid and eagle ray. Featherstars, Tokong Kemudi. The main can be seen here includes sharks, Gemluk Tenggol hydroids, black coral, anemones, sea island, Pulau Tenggol, is about rays, nudibranch and a wide vari- fans and sponges dominate the 50 hectors in size and is one of ety of hard and soft coral. Before Tanjung reefs of Redang. For macro-lovers, the most beautiful and serene being declared a marine park, Batu Sarang Lang Chachang there are also nudibranchs, mantis islands off peninsular Malaysia’s Pulau Tenggol was a favourite hunt- east coast. It is also famous for its ing ground for spear-fishermen, par- * PULAU REDANG, PULAU PINANG, PULAU LING, PULAU EKOR TEBU, PULAU KERENGGA BESAR , spectacular rocky cliffs that offer ticularly for snappers and groupers. PULAU KERENGGA KECIL, PULAU PAKU BESAR, PULAU PAKU KECIL AND PULAU LIMA. many excellent dive sites of pris- Tokong Timur PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’

10 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO Pulau Tioman, Glimpses of Malaysia Tioman is the largest and big wreck fans and technical divers cost of boat rentals is high and scuba Teluk Rayner Rock most developed of the 64 vol- will enjoy Tioman as there are several diving has been possible only in groups Jawa canic islands in the Seri Buat wrecks in the area. pre-arranged by dive shops in Kuala Tip of Pulau Lobster Cay archipelago that make up the These Second World War treasures Lumpur and Singapore. Spectacular Dayang Dayang Crocodile Rock Dayang Pahang Marine Parks. In 1958, — including the Prince of Wales, the dive sites include Teluk Teluran with Pulau Tioman was chosen to Repulse, Varella and various subma- large undulating corals — which are Island Reef be James Michener’s ficti- rines and battleships — lie all around home to various octopuses, crabs and Teluk Teluran tious Bali Hai for the filming of Tioman, normally at a depth of 40 m moray eels — the Ming dynasty wreck the Hollywood classic, “South or more. at Teluk Mariam and the wall diving at Roberts Pacific.” Since then, Pulau Pulau Pinang, which is also good for Point Tioman, which is easily acces- Pulau Aur is located 65 km east of . Pulau sible by air or boat, became on the east coast of . Accommodation is available only Aur The a popular tourist attraction Together with surrounding islands on Pulau Dayang and Pulau Aur. Garden especially among underwater Pulau Dayang, Pulau Lang and Pulau Amenities are pretty basic as electric- Teluk Meriam explorers. Pinang, it makes up for about half of ity to the rooms is limited and there is Ming wreck The Tioman Marine Park is Johor Marine park. The blue waters no hot running water. It is a popular zoned as a sanctuary for the here are deeper than around the getaway for divers based in Singapore community and inner islands. for which reason it can be quite busy Aur- the shallow, still waters near Due to its remoteness from the main- at weekends. However, you may have The Pinnacles Tioman, such as at the sites of land, visibility is excellent and sightings the island practically to yourself on Dayang Pirate Reef and Renggis Island, of big pelagics are common. However, weekdays. are perfect for training the less experienced diver. Further out Chebeh Teluk Magicienne to sea, the Tioman Island dive Kador Rock sites such as Chebeh and Tiger Reef, are set in deeper waters Tulai Island Fan Canyon PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ where you may encounter Sepoy Malang Rock challenging currents and also Labas the chance to see larger species. There is plenty of coral circling most Soyah Tiger of the island including alyconarian reef Marine soft corals and multi-colored staghorn Park coral. You will most likely run into all the Tekek Wreck usual reef life, the most numerous of Renggis which being parrotfish and butterflyfish. The best diving is around the small islets and rocks to the west and north-west Pulau where an incredible variety of angel- Tioman fish and butterflyfish can be found. The water is clear to a depth of about 30 metres. Turtles and cuttlefish laying eggs are common in July and August. There are some other islands off the Sepoy east coast that have good diving but Bahara Rock are less visited. Dive sites also include Jahat Tioman over a dozen wrecks — mainly scuttled wooden-hulled fishing trawlers. Even

Colonies of sponges and soft corals are

motels for feather stars and cardinal fishes PHOTO: MICHAEL AW

11 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Photo: Michael Aw

Events & holidays Whip goby and black coral shrimp The major Islamic events are connected with Ramadan, the ninth month of the Muslim calendar. The major Malaysian festival is Hari Raya Puasa, which marks the end of Ramadan with three days of joyful celebra- tions. Hari Raya Haji marks the successful com- pletion of the hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca) HMS PrinceIf you’re of into deepWales technical upsideand down. Repulse The bottom is silty diving, then 95 km off and the visibility rarely good. lie the wrecks of two of the most Also two Dutch submarines and a powerful ships in the British British mine-sweeper found their Royal Navy from the second World final destination in the South PHOTO: ‘MALAYSIA’ War: The 35,000-ton battleship HMS China Sea after hitting the same Prince of Wales and the 32,000-ton mine field. The main difference battle cruiser HMS Repulse. The between Tioman and other World Repulse is on her starboard side in War II destinations about 55 m of water, with the decks is that most of the wrecks leaning at about a 30-35 degree around here are in deeper water angle. HMS Prince of Wales lies in and therefore only suitable for 66-68 metres of water buried in the technical divers. soft bottom, but she is completely Photo taken from Japanese aircraft showing the sinking of HMS Repulse on December with a two-day feast of cakes and sweets. 10, 1941. Source: US Naval Historical center Chinese New Year, in January or February, is welcomed with dances, parades and a lot of good cheer. The festival of Thaipusam in late January is one of the most dramatic Hindu festivals during which devotees honour Lord Subramaniam with acts of amazing masochism — definitely not for the squeamish. In Kuala Lumpur, devotees march to nearby Batu Caves. In Penang, the event is celebrated at the Waterfall Temple. The Kota Belud Tamu Besar is a huge tribal gathering held in May at Kota Belud near in Sabah. It includes a massive mar- ket, traditional ceremonies, ornately decorat- ed horsemen, medicine men and tribal handi- crafts. A smaller tamu is held in Kota Belud every Sunday if you’re not visiting during May.

12 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 Sarawak Anemone garden Glimpses of Malaysia

11

10 9

9. Tanjung Datu 10. Talang Salang 11. Miri

“Unlike reefs on the neighbouring state of Sabah and those of Indonesia and the Phillippines, which are consistently exploited by destructive blasts and cyanide fishing, Miris reefs are relatively pris- tine. There are no con- spicuous signs of dam-

age or impact from high PHOTO: MICHAEL AW sedimentation or illegal fishing indicating that ore than 30 ethnic groups Despite the fact that three quar- park also showcases a wide vari- their spectacular Sarawak is around the Talang- Mlive together harmoniously in ters of its landmass is still covered ety of vegetation found in Borneo formations. The famous limestone Talang islands, a marine turtle the reefs of the Miri- Sarawak, including 21 native eth- with the world’s oldest tropical including carnivorous pitcher caves here include the world’s sanctuary. The corals surrounding Sibuti areas are among nic groups, Malay and Chinese. rainforests and latticed with riv- plants, sundews, bladderworts largest cave passage and the this island are remarkable in their Even with such diversity, individual ers and tributaries, travel around and the world’s largest flower world’s largest natural rock cham- variety. There’s a colourful pal- the last remaining ones groups have retained their cultur- Sarawak is easy. Ten national — the one metre wide Rafflesia. ber. ette of fish, and the waters are in the world” al identity, observing traditional parks scattered throughout the Miri, near the border with Brunei, Most of the waters around pleasant and very safe. The area customs and rituals on a day-to- state make for easy access to is the gateway to the north of Sarawak are not great dive around the Talang-Talang islands Michael Aw day basis. Tourists are welcome Sarawak’s splendid natural treas- Sarawak and its spectacular nation- locations because of the shal- was, however, recently gazetted everywhere and the people are ures. Residents include the endem- al parks, rivers and highlands. Niah low waters and a number of as a national park. This change all very friendly. English is widely ic proboscis monkey, the famous and Gunung Mulu National Parks muddy and swampy estuar- has brought about some confusion spoken although the national lan- bearded pig, silver leaf monkeys in Northwest Sarawak are perhaps ies lying off the coastlines. as to how the public may enjoy guage is Malay. and long-tailed macaques. The the best known in Sarawak with The best spot for diving in West the natural beauty, which is now

13 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia Atago Maru Wreck

Tukau Drop Off Santak Point

Tukau Oil rigs Roberts Reef Azam’s Place Miri Seafan Gardens Eve’s Garden Batu Betals

Anemone Garden Siwa Oil rigs

PHOTOS: MICHAEL AW Sunday Reef VHK Reef INSET: Double horn Siwa Reef nudibranch

LEFT: The pilons of an oil rig make a Grouper Patch good home for soft coral gardens and marine life which Tusan Reef Miri - shelter there like this Sri Gadong Reef Sarawak school of batfish

may come across the Rafflesia, with varying depths from 7 to 30 the world’s largest flower, whose meters with average visibility of 10 blooms measure a metre across. to 30 meters. You can explore old Mountains sweep down to the shipwrecks and spectacular coral sea. This park lies on the extreme reefs. South , Eve’s western tip of the State. Garden, Anemore Garden, Royal The debris-free mountain streams Charlotte Atoll Grouper Patch ensure crystal clear waters off Reef, Sri Gadong and Atago Mari some of Sarawak’s finest beach- Wrecks are just some of the newest es. There are also coral formations attractions for diving enthusiasts. close in to shore that make this There are more than 15 dive sites yet-to-be-explored dive site ideal with the latest one dubbed “Rig preserved as pat of the national wreck diving, but these dives are Satang National Park were con- trawlers from trawling within the for . On shore, the to Reef”– a recently submerged heritage. At turtle nesting time, no regarded as quite challenging. structed for marine conservation resting areas used by turtles dur- park is rich in flora and fauna. decommissioned oil platform that marine traffic is allowed near the Also challenging are the waters using concrete reef balls. Since ing the nesting season that falls is the only one in Malaysia. The est islands at all. around Tanjung Datus, the rocky 1998, about one thousand reef between May and October. A per- Miri Just 30 minutes off the coast- dive season is April to October. The underwater scenery around headland at the northwest cape balls have been deployed around mit from the Forest Department is line of Miri, there are several diving Satang is not as attractive as of the great island of Borneo. the coast of Sarawak. This is the necessary for entry into the park. spots where natural reefs provide Labuan island is located 115 Talang-Talang. Visibility is not too Here, two ocean currents clash first reef ball project in Asia and diverse marine life. The dive loca- km south of Kota Kinabalu and good and the nearer you are together creating underwater tur- was instigated for conservation Gunung Gading tions have next to no current most 8km off the mainland of Sabah at to the mouth of Sarawak River, bulence that can only be man- purposes. The National Park has National Park Trek through of the time and water tempera- the northern mouth of Brunei. Its the cloudier the water gets. aged by experienced divers. important turtle nesting beaches, the mountains to view beautiful ture averages 30 degrees Celsius. deep harbour and duty free port Off the rivermouth there is some The artificial reefs at Talang- and reef balls are used to stop waterfalls and rare plants. You The reefs here are all patch reefs attract shipping from all over the

14 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sabah

Glimpses of Malaysia PHOTO: PETER SYMES 14 17 Tiga is believed to have been formed by kilometres north of Labuan near the the eruption of several mud volcanoes, famous and disputed Spratly group of 16 which, with the combination of subterra- islands. Its coral walls plunge a stagger- 15 18 nean gas and expelled muddy ing 2000 metres down to the floor of the sediment, could have built up the island South China Sea. In 1985, the Malaysian 13 to its present height of approximately Federal Government began reclamation 100 m above sea level. The only resort on work and created a 50-acre island on 12 the island, Pulau Tiga Resort, offers PADI one part of the reef. The island now has a dive courses and many dive sites for the 1,067-metre airstrip and novice and experienced divers including a comfortable 90-room 19 some unexplored dive locations. A rich three-star resort with a 20 variety of marine life can be seen includ- full service PADI dive 2221 ing nudibranchs, bamboo sharks, cuttle- centre. It is now a world fish, marbled stingray and, of course, a class diving paradise 12. Labuan 16. Mantanani 21. Mabul visit to nearby “Snake Island” guarantees dubbed the “big fish 13. Pulau Tiga 17. Kudat wrecks 22. Sipadan sightings of banded sea snakes. The sur- and wall diving Mecca 14. Layang-Layang 18. Lankayan rounding reefs are shallow with healthy of Southeast Asia.” 15. Tunku Abdul Rahman 19. Mataking coral and water visibility ranging from Its warm waters are crystal clear with Marine Park 20. Kapalai 6 m to 20 m. visibility averaging the best in the under- Kota Kinabalu. Until recently, the islands water world. Large shoals of pelagics, were only known to a few locals. The world and in 1990, Labuan was declared and the Dutch vessel, the SS De Klerk, also Tunku Abdul Rahman including massive numbers of barracuda, largest island houses the only dive resort, the International Offshore Finance Centre known as the “Australian Wreck,” which Marine Park is easily accessed from jacks and an awesome school of hammer- Mantanani Resort, which is situated at of Malaysia. Although three islands – was thought to have been sunk by the Sabah’s capital, Kota Kinabalu, and is head sharks, numbering about a hundred the western end on the edge of a white Pulau Kumaran, Pulau Rusukan Kecil and Royal Australian Air . part of a larger protected ensemble that individuals, regularly visit Layang-Layang. sandy bay. Three wrecks have been dis- Pulau Rusukan Besar — are designated The other two wrecks were sunk in the offers the double-splendor of land and Manta rays with fin-spans of over ten feet covered and many species of rays can as Marine Parks, the special underwater 1980’s, the Philippine stern trawler, MV sea adventures. The marine life that has (3 m) are also found here. Other residents be found: Marbled stingray, Blue spotted attractions of Labuan are its shipwrecks. Mabini Padre, locally called the “Blue been spotted here includes manta rays, include the Napoleon wrasse, Hawksbill ray and large schools of eagle rays. For Four well-researched and regularly dived Water Wreck,” and the Tung Hwang, turtles, lionfish, a multitude of pelagics turtles, Dog tooth tuna, Giant hammer- macro photographers, the “” wrecks to the southwest make this area a Japanese freighter locally known as and lots of coral. During the krill bloom head wrasse and the White tip reef sharks. is amazing. You will find seahorses, imperi- “the wreck diving center of Malaysia.” the “Cement Wreck.” All four ships lie in from December to April, whale sharks al shrimps, pink-eye gobies, jawfish, blue- INSET PHOTO SOURCE: WWW.LAYANGLAYANG.COM Two of the wrecks are from World War II, 30 m to 35 m of water, with the top portions are sometimes spotted. Located a short Mantanani Islands have a new ringed octopus, ribbon eels and many the U.S. Navy minehunter, the USS Salure, lying at 8 m to 12 m. The water visibility var- 15 minute boat ride from the city of Kota exciting resort. Dugongs have been seen nudibranchs. There are now 16 dive sites also known as the “American Wreck,” ies greatly season to season from 6 m to Kinabalu, Pulau Mamutik offers a fine site occasionally in many coastal regions, but identified by Mantanani Resort with many 20 m. The type of diving on these wrecks for macro photography. they are most consistently sighted around more still to be explored. ranges from novice to experienced wreck the Mantanani Islands which are a group Labuan divers with penetration possible into the Layang-Layang or “Swallow Reefs” of three isolated islands northwest of Kudat wreck diving is found off the hulls, but the wrecks are great dives is an atoll (14 sq. km) that lies about 300 Kota Belud and about 80 km north of northwest coast of Sabah where a group even if you choose not to enter them. Diving the wrecks can be B E Labuan arranged through Borneo Divers. F A C D Pulau Tiga is an island situated in Pulau Tiga Park, located about A 35 nautical miles southwest of Mantanani G Kota Kinabalu. Three islands make Mantanani J B up Pulau Tiga Park — Pulau Tiga, K I H C D Pulay Kalampunian Damit (bet- islands L ter known as “Snake Island”) and A. Blue Water Wreck Pulau Kalampunian Basar. Pulau B. Cement Wreck A. Great Wall E. Sahara Desert I. Police Gate C. American Wreck B. Gilly Rock F. Abalone Avenue J. Italian Place D. Australian Wreck C. Boxy Avenue G. Southeast Point K. Hasim Stone Double Horn nudibranch PHOTO: MICHAEL AW D. Mantis Avenue H. Riza Garden L. Three wrecks

15 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia Sarawak N A M B A. Bimbo Rock B. Lost Reef L Lankayan C. Ken’s Rock K D. Mosquito Wreck E. Twin City C F. Jawfish Lair J G. Malu Malu I H. And & Ant D I. Supermarket Group J. Lankayan Wreck H E K. Froggie Fort L. Ricky Rock M. Coral Garden N. Fan Garden G F Lankayan

LEFT: Deeper reef colo- nies of red whip and coral seascapes

BELOW: Shrimp living with bubble coral fied. Pelagics also abound here, from large schools of scads to yellow-tail barra- cudas and jacks. The many schools of medium to large humphead parrotfish are always exciting to encoun- ter. Sometimes, divers are lucky enough to meet large PHOTO: MICHAEL AW rays, guitarfish and even manatees. Among the 40 dive sites is Lankayan Wreck, the remains of an of islands lie with rarely dived reefs. These includes schools of glassfish, lionfish, scor- is a virtually unin- ocean-going boat that was islands include Pulau Balambangan, pionfish and huge resident groupers. The habited island and one of the best spots used in illegal fishing here. Pulau Banggi, Pulau Jambongan, Pulau surrounding islands have shallow reefs for sighting. The location of This wreck now hosts many Molleangan, Pulau Balak and Pulau fringing their shores with all the usual the whale shark is usually indicated by different species of fish from Malawali. A number of wrecks have resident reef fish such as the coral trout, flocks of seabirds screeching high above small glassfish, harlequin recently been discovered in this area. All butterflyfish, angelfish and the occasion- the placid surface. Lankayan Island is ghost pipefish, painted frog- thought to be merchant ships, two are al cuttlefish. Sipadan-Mabul Regal Tours, also a true macro-world paradise. Large fish to giant grouper and lying at 20 m to 25 m and the third is lying which is based in Kota Kinabalu, now has stretches of beautiful hard and soft cor- marbled stingrays. Despite a little deeper at 50 m. All three wrecks a live-aboard boat, the “Scuba Explorer,” als belonging to numerous genera are the remoteness, the island resemble coral gardens. They are com- regularly visiting the area. As these reefs preserved, including colourful juvenile resort has all the ameni- pletely covered in colorful sponge and have rarely been dived, new sites are fishes. It is possible that some of the spe- ties of a modern resort. soft corals. Marne life around the wrecks being discovered on many of the trips. cies found here are as yet to be identi- Visitors stay in bungalows made out of local wood- en materials to blend into the natural surroundings.

PHOTO: MICHAEL AW

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The area around at Sabah’s eastern tip is home to several famous Semporna Mataking dive destinations from which a lot of the same dive sites can be reached 0 5 10km PHOTO: PETER SYMES

shelf, downsteam from the mangrove delta off Mabul Semporna. Due to the Kapalai pattern of the currents in the area, seems to act as a scoop Eastern Sabah catching the most amaz- Sipadan ing sorts of critters. Like Mataking, Kapalai, Mabul and the environment and the surrounding sea. Kapalai, the sea bottom Here, tourists can learn and participate at Mabul seems covered Sipadan. From muck diving to in The Reef Ball project during their stay at with mysterious creatures. impressive dropoffs, it is all in the resort. ‘Reef Balls’ are made of con- one place. crete, which are then placed at various Sipadan Island Just a sites underwater to rebuild corals and to 15 minute boat ride from Mataking is a small island, about 45 provide artificial homes to the underwater Mabul Island is Sipadan minutes by speedboat from Semporna. fishes. Since the start of the project, a total Island — a unique island There is only one resort on the island, the of 220 reef balls have been deployed. because it sits on the oce-

Reef Dive Resort, with a total of eight Coral plantings include Tubastraea PHOTO: PETER SYMES anic bottom. With Sipadan executive chalets and two lodges that Micrantha (Dark Green Tube), Knotted and Kapalai practically can accommodate up to 60 guests at Fan Coral, Sea Fan (Red Gorgonian), Kapalai Island offers some of the across the street from Mabul, the discern- one time. The Reef Dive Resort is an eco- pocillopora Verrucosa (Staghorn Coral) best “muck diving” in this part of the ing diver has the best of everything within friendly dive resort and, from the very and Seriatopora Hystrix (Staghorn Coral). world. Here, divers come face to face a few minutes ride, not to mention access beginning, the management of the resort There are about 30 dive sites around with amazing marine creatures. Testing to the Mabul’s magnificient housereef. Profile of the sea floor in the area. has placed a great emphasis on care for Mataking, its surrounding islands of your skills at spotting minute and cleverly In the following pages, we devote a One can see that Sipadan Island is a Pandanan, Timba Timba and the Tun camouflaged oddities is well-rewarded. whole section to diving at Sipadan Island. pinnacle located in what is technically Sakaran Marine Park islands of Bohey Rare subjects such as cuttlefish, blue- But first, let’s go ape and check out the the ocean, whereas the continental Dulang and Gaya. The three best-known ringed octopus, sea moths and mat- oran-utans at Sepilok. shelf lies just beyond Mabul Island. dive sites that surround Mataking are ing mandarinfish are seen on a regular Magic Rick, Mantis Reef and Alice Wall. basis. Although Kapalai is just a few min- The Alice Channel, which is about 100 utes away by boat from Sipadan, one metres deep, connects Mataking to can expect a completely different diving Sipadan Island, which is only a 45-minute experience. The only resort occupying boat ride away. the island is the Sipadan-Kapalai Resort, Midway to Sipadan, we find two other which is built on wooden stilts over the reef. famous dive sites. Mabul and Kapalai Islands are probably the most exciting Mabul Island is where the phrase, Mabul Kapalai diving places for macro marine life in “muck diving,” was coined. Here, many the wild. First, on the Reefs, a very new species have been discovered. A extensive stretch bordering the deep and sheltered bay just off the luxurious resort, vast , we find a long-kept Sipadan Water Village, provides a natu- secret dive destination called Kapalai. ral protection to fish fry. Mabul Island PHOTO: PETER SYMES sits just on the edge of the continental

17 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Glimpses of Malaysia Orang Utan Sepilok The Orangutan (also spelled ‘Orang Utan’ Text by Michael Symes or ‘Orang-utan’ and Photos by Peter Symes sometimes incorrectly as ‘orangutang’) is a back to health before they can captive breeding of the rare and great ape with long be released into the forest. Many endangered rhinoceros. arms and reddish, orangutans that end up here have sometimes brown hair. strayed into logging camps or been Possibility for working at It is native to Malaysia rescued from captivity. Many are Sepilok At Sepilok you could have and Indonesia. orphaned babies that cannot sur- the opportunity to work with these ‘Orangutan’ is derived vive in the forest alone. gentle and highly intelligent red from the Malay phrase When the rescued orangutans first apes in their natural environment. ‘Orang Hutan’ mean- arrive at the centre, they are often Interaction with these remarkable ing “man of the forest.” in a sorry state and riddled with creatures, man’s closest relative, Orangutans are the most arboreal of the great apes, diseases. They are put into cages could be an unforgetta- spending nearly all of their time in the trees. while they are treated for their ail- ble experience. All details They are only found in rainforests on the ments and nursed back to health. regarding the project are Orangutan is islands of Borneo and Sumatra. These two The wardens then teach them how to be found at: www.trav- derived from the small isolated populations were classified as to forage for fruit, climb trees and ellersworldwide.com subspecies until recently, when they were generally fend for themselves. When Malay phrase elevated to the specific level (Pongo pyg- Staff members at Sepilok Orangutan Rehab Center feed and care for the Oranguntans they are mid-way through the reha- The Orangutan Orang Hutan maeus on Borneo, and P. abelii on Sumatra). bilitation process they are released Appeal Sepilok meaning man Furthermore, primatologists now recognise Men of the Forest at Sepilok The Sepilok Orangutan into the surrounding forest reserve. Orangutan Appeal UK, three subspecies of the Bornean orangutan: The orangutan, meaning “man of Rehabilitation Centre The animals then spend most of founded in 2000, is a reg- of the forest. P. p. pygmaeus in northwest Borneo, P. p. the forest” in Malay, is one of the The Sepilok Orangutan their time in the forest but often istered charity based in morio in northeast and east Borneo, and P. most endangered of Malaysian Rehabilitation Centre is situated on return to one of the centers five England. It is dedicated p. wurmbii in southwest Borneo. wildlife species. Found only in the east coast of Sabah, 23 km from feeding platforms for a “free” meal. to the rehabilitation and preserva- Orangutans are highly endangered in the wild. Orangutan Borneo and Sumatra, the orangu- . A twenty-minute drive When the wardens feel that that an tion of orangutans and their habitat habitat destruction due to logging, mining and forest fires tans’ survival is constantly threat- from Sandakan brings you to Kabili- orangutan is fully rehabilitated, it in the Sabah region of Malaysian has been increasing rapidly in the last decade. Much of this ened by forest fires, felling of trees, Sepilok Forest, an enormous area of is caught and returned to the wild Borneo. It supports various sponsor activity is illegal, occurring in national parks that are officially poaching and illegal hunting. virgin rainforest. The wealth of indig- - usually deep in the forest or to schemes, and also publishes mate- off limits to loggers, miners and plantation development. Orangutans are protected under enous and rare plants, animals and one of the National Parks or Wildlife rial, including a DVD about the There is also a major problem with the illegal trapping of the Fauna Conservation Ordinance birds that have found sanctuary Sanctuaries. Rehabilitation Centre. For further baby Orangutans for sale in the pet trade; the trappers usu- which, among other things, prohibits here must be seen to be believed. The objectives of the project have information about the important ally kill the mother to steal the baby. hunting, trading or keeping them as The Wildlife Reserve contains the expanded in recent years, and work of this charity please visit: pets. The population is now estimat- orangutan rehabilitation centre. while orangutan rehabilitation is still www.orangutan-appeal.org.uk ed to be as low as 15000, and so This centre, established in 1964, the primary goal at Sepilok, present orangutans are now on the critically was set up as a means of housing aims include public education on Late postscript For those endangered list and face extinction injured or orphaned orangutans, conservation and research with interested in more informa- within 10 years if nothing is done caring for them and nursing them other endangered species, such as tion regarding orangutans, now. Among Orangutans: Orangutans share Red apes and the 96.4% of human genes, rise of human culture and catch most of the has just received a diseases that affect very positive review man. They are astonish- in NewScientist, 22 ingly gentle, highly intel- January 2005 (Vol 185 ligent and they gaze at No 2483). See www. you with almost discon- newscientist.com ■ certing frankness.

18 X-RAY MAG : 3 : 2005 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & NEWS ECOLOGY PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED lakeville.se

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TourismHuvudkontor: Malaysia Kuala KualaLumpur Lumpur Tel: +60-3 2615 8188 Fax: +60-3 2693 5884 Tel:Regionalt + 60 kontor: 3 - 2693 Stockholm: 5188 Fax: Klarabergsgatan + 60 3 - 2693 35, 2tr 5884, Box 131+ 60 101 03 22 - Stockholm2693 0207 Tel: 08 24 99 00 Fax: 08 24 23 24 19 X-RAYFrederiksberg MAG : 3 : 200Niels5 Ebbesens Vej 24-28, 3323 2662 København Nørregade 38, 3312 0303 Websites:E-Post: [email protected] www.malaysiatourist.net ;Hemsida: www.touris www.malaysiaturist.netm.gov.my ; www.tourism.gov.my SIPADAN Still open for business? Text by Peter Symes Photos by Peter Symes & Gunild Pak Symes called Sipadan Island a rare pearl. It Text & photos by Peter Symes is thought to have the best div- ing in the whole world. Take but a few steps from the beach and you can dive straight into vertical drop-offs. The wealth and diversity of species there is quite overwhelming. There are turtles everywhere, with shoals of barracuda and sharks that lay and sleep on the plateaus covered by gardens of coral. Popular and famous but also exploited beyond what the island’s fragile ecosystem could sustain, the Malaysian govern- ment was forced to act. Dive operators on Sipadan have had to vacate their structures on ABOVE: Sipadan Island as the island. Effective January 1st seen from the 2005, only day trips are allowed LEFT: Detail of one of the to Sipadan and these are limited many orchids that grace the region to a maximum of 80 visitors.

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Reality check We speed over the ◄ Orchids mirror-smooth surface at 25 knots — the ▼ Mokan fishing boat jungle-covered foothills of Borneo slowly disappear behind us in the white wake. I squint my eyes under the bright tropical sun. Everyone on board this powerful motor- boat is dozing off into their own thoughts. It all seems a little unreal to me, and difficult to grasp. That little island, like a small green fragile point seemingly hover- ing on the nearly invisible line of the hori- zon, in all that overwhelming blue, is the legendary Sipadan. Ever since my young The myth The boat slows down as we diving days as a sportsdiver, coming here near Sipadan. How small the island is! has been one of my biggest dreams. And But there is a large reef surrounding the for me, back when I was a poor student, it. The guide looks down into the water. it was also nearly an impossible dream. We are getting close to Barracuda But here I am now, sitting and listening to point, the northerly part of Sipadan’s the keel of the boat cutting through the reef. The splits at this point water, as the sun warms me and jetlag to flow past the island, so large shoals of melts out of my body. barracuda often collect here. Today is My thoughts went back to the plane no exception. There are both current and trip out here, to that moment of daybreak barracuda, so we glide carefully into the nearer, against the current, without hav- when, after a night-long flight from Europe, water and swim quickly down to the edge ing to make too great an effort. With the plane took its silent descent. I looked of the reef at a depth of about 10 meters, my eye stuck to the camera viewfinder down over Asia for the first time. There in order to get into the lee of the current. I move in towards the circling predators. seemed to be something symbolic in that The wall is steep and covered by spong- Suddenly, like a flock of birds in their quiet arrival in Singapore. And now, after es and corals of every shape and form. I autumnal migration, the whole shoal having flown over the South China Sea find a small sandy spot where I can sit changes direction and now comes and driven across Borneo, I am here — at and collect both my thoughts and all my towards me. A living carpet of fish-faces last. A great adventure is about to begin. photographic equipment – flash, cables, full of needle-sharp teeth are check- bracket and camerahouse. I look up ing me out. The entire formation pass- and see an enormous barracuda-carrou- es close by me and then around me. Barracuda point sel. Above me, majestic predators circle I hang there in the water, in the middle Coral Garden peacefully, while several sea turtles glide of a crowd of shiney muscular fish that, at by looking like circling aircraft awaiting one and the same time, consider me with Drop permission to land on the airstrip reef. some interest and yet, like aloof felines, Off Whitetip It is a reef abounding with life. Turtles demonstrate an arrogant indifference Turtle Avenue Tomb are napping here and there. Or are they to my presence. I am just a guest here, West Reef keeping a lookout? White-tip reef sharks and they make sure that I don’t forget it. Mid Reef twist lazily in and out among the blocks of But soon the barracuda allow me to coral, or lay at rest on the plateaus. There swim with them as one of their shoal. I Hanging are many blue fusiliers sporting deep blue look around, and on both sides and over Garden Turtle Patch colours and perfect forms, creating their me, their bodies are parallel with mine as own playful shoal around the barracu- we swim slowly forwards. Yet even when Lobster Lair das. they are swimming in a relaxed fashion South Point I slowly close-in on the barracudas. they move much more rapidly than I I give a gentle kick and make myself can. It is difficult to keep up with them. streamlined in order to be able to swim The shoal disappears into the blue haze, Divers approach a tornado of barracudas at Barracuda Cove off Sipadan Island

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leaving me feeling slightly dizzy after such a multitude of different impressions in so short a time, with an empty camera and a goofy empty expression on my face.

Introspection I shake myself loose of my moment of awe and release a so that the boat can find me. It real- ly wasn’t necessary because the boatsman had kept good con- tact, but I always do it routinely. We sail quietly in to the lit- tle jetty where we have a short break for lunch. We are served island ascends like a spire from the sea huts clumped together in the little scalding hot tea, which we sit floor, vertically rising straight up from bit of jungle that hugs the crown and drink while peacefully enjoy- the ocean bed some 800 meters down. of the island. It seems bizarre. This ing the scenery around us. On and around the edge of the reef, is a remote outpost of civilization, From the end of the short jetty, many sea turtles can be seen sticking their out where the world seems to be one can nearly see straight down noses up our of the water to get air. All is based only on a couple of floor- the famous drop-off of Sipadan. tranquil. We go for a walk on the island. boards. It is a tiny island surrounded Just a few meters from the beach With only 12 hectares, the island is not by an enormous ocean, and there it goes down almost vertically. very big, and it takes just a quarter of is nothing here. Nothing, that is to say, large caverns beneath it, among which Sipadan is special, in that the an hour to go round it. There are many other than a fabulous underwater realm is the famous Turtle Tomb. But it also con- for which the diving fanatics of tains fresh water. While the island itself the world are willing to travel half is no bigger than 7-8 football pitches way around the planet to explore! the surrounding reef covers about 200 hectars, and the outer reef has a circum- Strange Pulau Sipadan means ference of 5.7 km. There is a low-water ‘The Island in the Borderland’ in lagoon with sea-grass, different algae, malay. The name fits very well, small coral clumps and micro-atolls. The since the island crosses bor- edge of the reef lies at a depth of two to ders in more than one sense. eight meters, where the reef either goes Geologically, it lies six sea miles over into a drop-off (i.e. a vertical coral from the continental shelf, and wall) or a slope. About 2.4 of the 5.7 km is Malaysia’s only oceanic island. are vertical or form overhangs, and 2.3 km The island is topped by a coral of the walls have an incline of over 60%. cap. It is an atoll of indetermi- nate depth that has formed Politics The island has constantly over a volcano rising sharply been an object of dispute and friction from the ocean bed. This spire regarding the setting of international seems to be a magnet for animal frontiers. Malaysia, the and life, and it is that characteristic Indonesia have laid claim the island, which makes the island unique. not to mention, there is still an old Malay The island is porous and has who claims that the island was given to

CLOCKWISE FROM LOWER LEFT: Sipadan Water Village Resort (SWVR) bungalos, Malaysian flora, SWVR Welcome Center & check in, view of SWVR from dive cent- er, indigenous and nomadic Mokan people fish early in the morning and at night

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his grandfather by the sultan of Sulu. Malaysia fought a war of independ- ence against Indonesia in the 1960’s over, among other places, the bound- ary that still runs right across Borneo. The Philippines have also claimed Sabah, the Malay state in which we are now located. On my last visit, I was told that Indonesia owned the island but that Malaysia had an irrevocable leasing agreement, which annoyed Indonesia, to say the least. They could clearly see that Sipadan was a magnet for tourists. With so much contradictory information, it was difficult to a handle on the confusing situation. However, I found out that the mat- ter was settled on Dec 17, 2002, when the International Court of Justice at The belongs to Malaysia. the southern part of the island. The Hague in The Netherlands, made a judg- Notwithstanding, the island was already water is still calm. The reef is not so ment in the long-pending case con- declared a bird reservation back in 1933, steep on this side, and there are large cerning the sovereignty of the islands of and is therefore protected. There are flat surfaces of coral-gardens with both Sipadan and Ligitan. In its ruling, which frigate birds here, as well as sea-eagles, hard and soft corals. Some 300 spe- kingfishers, a number of species of dove, cies of corals have been identified here. and a large number of rare birds whose Among the blocks of coral, there are names I did not catch. In between dives, many turtles to be found looking at the it really is worthwhile to go round the surrounding multi-coloured life. Down island to look at the birdlife. The large inside the corals one can find blen- and rare robber crabs can also be found nies with all sorts of strange growths on here, as well as birgo latro, the spectacu- their fins. If one looks carefully enough, lar coconut crabs which crawl up into one can also find ghostpipefish which, the coconut palms to get at the fruit. with their superb camouflage, can At the present time, it is the Malay tour- disappear completely into the back- ist and environmental authorities who ground. A trained eye is required to have responsibility for the island. And spot them when they are not moving. these authorities are the administrators The current has increased, so we let who determine the ever-changing per- us drift lazily past the walls of coral in mits for how many guests are allowed a northerly direction up towards Turtle to visit Sipadan at any one time. The Patch on the east side of Sipadan. authorities have stationed park rangers Above us, there is a giant shoal of blue on the island to look after the birdlife and fusiliers and one or two barracuda. to protect the sea turtles that come to Beneath us, further down the coral wall, the beaches of Sipadan to lay their eggs. we can see the sharks patrolling. Most is considered “final, without appeal and of them are white-tip reef sharks, but ABOVE: A gentle sea turtle rests on the reef surrounding Sipadan Island, Malaysia binding for the parties,” the high court Afternoon other types can occasionally be seen. INSET: Mokan people live and work and raise their families in wooden fising boats found that sovereignty of the islands After lunch we sail around South Point, At mid-reef, our guide, Alex, waves us TOP RIGHT: View of the beach at Sipadan-Mabul Resort

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down to the bottom. He Sipadan was called ”The has found a large group Ghost of the Sea Turtle” of humphead parrot fish with reference to the local swimming idly between superstition. This beautiful the blocks of coral. These film shows a large under- big fish are generally rather water cavern with the shy of divers, but here they remains of dead turtles. let us come quite close. Did they come here to In the strong current, it is die like elephants in an not so easy to hold on and elephant cemetery? No, at the same time control a the explanation is much large camera with a flash more simple and sad. on a long bracket. So, I am The turtles swim into the really sucking air while I lay caves and can’t find their there and battle with the way out again. So, as they equipment. Each time that can’t get up to the surface I edge myself forwards a to breath, they drown. One couple of meters against is tempted to say, “Just like the current, it seems as if divers!” After a number of the manometer needle accidents, guides stopped is counting down like the taking divers into the cave. second hand on a watch. It is now necessary to have I take a couple of shots a cave-diving certificate. and that’s it. I must begin my rise to the surface. Biology First and fore- While I hang there at my most, one notices all the safety stop and drift under sea turtles that seem to the dive boat, I can see be everywhere, otherwise down on to the plateaus it is the big fish and the on White Tip Avenue. It beautiful coral gardens on is an appropriate name. the plateaus and walls so I think that I can count characteristic of Sipadan. at least 25 white-tip reef But also noteworthy is the sharks resting there. fact that 496 species of It has been a good fish have been recorded end to yet another day at Sipadan — a much in paradise. I return home greater diversity of spe- to my lodgings on Mabul, cies than is seen in the where a warm shower and South China Sea. As a visi- a good meal are wait- tor, one is also struck by ing. I can hardly wait to the large shoals of barra- get my film developed. cuda and jackfish. Manta rays and hammerhead Turtle tomb There sharks are also frequent is a large cavern under visitors. It is also worthwhile Sipadan with skeletons of to look out for the lesser turtles. It is part of an old known smaller species and legend about the island. other creepy-crawlies. Cousteau’s film about Sipadan is situated right

TOP: A Christmas Tree Worm braves the current An abundance of marine and coral life thrives under the pier at the of Sipadan Water Village BOTTOM: White and red corals at Sipadan Island

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“It is never too

late to recognise LEFT TO RIGHT: An underwater photographer captures something must be images of a school of jacks under the pier of the dive center at Sipadan Water Village, a long wooden walking done to reverse the pier stretches out into the tranquil bay where bungalos rest impact of human on stilts, divers prepare to explore Paradise I and II at SWV, delicate red and white soft corals hang from the steep activities, and it is vertical walls supporting Sipadan Island a wise decision to in the middle of what is called the Indo- with a serrated edge, limit dive operators of information, it is not possible to tiated, and a deeper understanding was An investigation in 1992 showed that Pacific. The region is a great coherent whereas that of the to conduct only day go into any detail here about this obtained of the significance of the island. about a fifth of the northern reef was ecological area consisting of the Pacific soup turtle is smooth. topic but briefly it can be stated Through the 1980’s, the WWF (World affected by the latest developments, with Ocean and the Indian Ocean, which also One can normally trips to Sipadan that the low watered plateaus Wildlife Fund) was involved in several new construction work and the presence includes southern Japan, the Philippines, get very close to the by year-end.” are dominated by elkhorn and large investigations, and their results have of boats and many divers in the water. Indonesia and Australia. soup turtles. They often table corals, plate and grape laid the foundations for the environmental The reef had previously been damaged Of the turtle family, it is mainly the green appear to be crying. It WWF corals plus large leather corals. stipulations that now protect the island. by dynamite fishing, but the pratice had soup turtle, Chelonia mydas, which popu- is thought that that the (World Wide Fund for On the walls, fan corals and Between the 1930’s and 1985, it was ceased with the arrival of humans on the late the waters around Sipadan. This turtle tears they shed serve to Nature) Malaysia Borneo sponges can be seen. And, at mainly fishermen and egg collectors island. Until 1989, all the turtles that could comes to the island to lay its eggs. It can prevent their eyes from programme director Dr greater depths, black coral and who regularly visited the island. In 1985, be found were dug up and emptied of be up to 1.2 m long and weigh over 180 kg. drying out and keep Geoffrey Davison big barrel sponges dominate. Borneo Divers began dive operations their eggs. However, this led to a fall in The soup turtle is first and foremost noc- them free of sand. on the island. They were the first opera- the population of turtles and the practice turnal, and lives on sea grasses. During The majority of corals at Sipadan are History Very little is known of Sipadan’s tors to come to the island. At the start, was therefore stopped. the day it rests, and one can often in fine condition and, like the fish, a large early history. A unique and special ecolo- there was only a tent in which divers In addition to this, it has been neces- meet sleeping turtles in the corals. diversity of species is to be found. Within gy has been recognised at Sipadan since could overnight at the island. The first huts sary to regulate the use of fresh water, to There are also many loggerhead turtles, the hermatypical corals alone (these are 1933, when the island was designated came along in 1989. Then, Sabah Wildlife organise the purification of waste water Eretmochylis imbricata. It can be difficult corals that have symbiotic photosynthe- a bird reservation. It was not before the Department built a small experimental- and to establish effective waste dispos- to distinguish between the two species sising algae in their cells), over 400 spe- end of the 1970’s, however, that serious station in 1989, and in 1991 another dive al. With six resorts now based on the under the water, but the latter has a shell cies have been found. Due to the volume scientific evaluations of the reef were ini- operator arrived. island, Sipadan was not able to bear

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the ecological burden in the long run. already have The diving was still spectacular, but it resorts at both was clear that it could not continue to of these alter- be so. Unfortunately, a nasty kidnap- native locations ping affair in April 2000 had a very chill- that are actual- ing effect on tourism to the area and ly rated at high- forced the government to put a tem- er standards. porary limit to the number of visitors. On Dec. 4, Originally, only one centre had per- the government rejected a request Village Resort, is mission to build on the island. But there from scuba diving resort oper- fournd on near- is a clear indication that corruption ators to be allowed to remain on by Mabul Island, and capitalistic interests have had Sipadan for another year. The Dec. where there are a large role in the development of 31 deadline remained in place for two resorts which Sipadan Island. the five operators on the island to are both cheaper Early in 2004, the Malaysian fed- vacate the popular diving spot. and of much bet- eral cabinet announced the deci- Effective on January 1st, 2005, ter quality than sion to close of all the dive resorts the government will allow only day those found on on Sipadan. Effective on the 31st of trips with a maximum limited of 80 Sipadan. There is December 2004, all five resorts on visitors. The decision is expected to also a convert- the island are required to close all strengthen Malaysia’s applica- ed oil-rig near their facilities and move elsewhere. tion for the island to be listed as a Mabul called Chief Minister Datuk Seri Musa Aman world heritage site by Unesco. Seaventures. On had stated clearly that “we are doing Kapalai Island, this to preserve the environment, Geography Between Sipadan and there is a resort thus ensuring Sipadan remains the Semporna lie the islands of Mabul on stilts, but the number one diving spot in the world. and Kapalai, which are also interest- island is so small As Mabul and Kapilai are close by, ing dive locations. There are acco- that you can this fortunately does not mean that modations for divers on both islands. hardly stand on it. These islands are Mabul is known as the place where within 15 minutes ‘muck diving’ was invented. Muck div- sailing time of each ing can best be described as diving TOP LEFT: Malaysian bananas, other, and it is easy for exciting small crawlies on the flat bottled water and packaged to dive all three plac- seabed. It is an activity that is greatly nuts are locally produced es regardles of what recommended — one can discover island upon which bizarre new creatures time after time. BOTTOM LEFT: Bungalo chimes are sold by you choose to stay. Closer to Semporna, you can dive vendors at the resort shops and roadside stalls At the moment, among the mangroves. During a long- Sipadan has six er stay in the area, divers should find TOP RIGHT: View of the dining hall resorts. They are the time for a special diving excursion to at Sipadan Water Village Resort most expensive in the the mangroves. It is a different diving MID RIGHT: Handmade straw baskets, wood area, since they are environment with interesting natural flutes and trinkets are sold at open markets located on Sipadan finds that are unique to the mangrove Island, the target of ecosystem. BOTTOM RIGHT: Bags of rice, beans, peanuts, diving in the area straw hats, fresh pinapples and hanging — “the real thing.” Evaluation fruit fill the stalls at open air markets Considering the Can you take the children or inex- lodging prices, the perienced divers to Sipadan? Yes, standard of these and even though it must be acknowl- divers are excluded from visiting the accommodations is disappointing. edged that the diving is mostly for island. Many of Sipadan’s operators My favorite location, Sipadan Water feinschmecker and those interested

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Capital Kuala Lumpur Area 330.000 squ. km Malaysia consists of the south- ern part of the Malay peninsula together with Sarawak and Sabah on northern Borneo. In recent years the country has enjoyed a considerable economic growth, and has declared its intention of achieving the status of an I-land, or first world nation, in 2020. It has a population of 22 million, of which 53% are Sunni-Muslims, 17% Buddhists, 11% Taoists, 8% Neon bright dive gear and BCDs dry very quickly under the tropical sun as they lay Christians 8%, and 7% Hindus. The strewn on the pier at the dive center at Sipadan Water Village Resort average life expectancy is 71 years. Ethnic grouping include in nature, it is not difficult in itself — that keys, go trekking on , Malays 59%, Chinese 32% and is, if you don’t jump down into a strong white-water rafting in Saba, or visit SIPADAN Indians 9%. Tropical, with a south- it is advisable to contact your current, or dive too deep, or go into the orangutan reservation at Sepilok. Climate Borneo Sea Adventures west monsoon in May-June and a own doctor or the State Serum caves for which you have no training. www.bornsea.com the official north-east monsoon in October- Institute before travelling. On the other hand, the experienced Language Borneo Divers & Sea Sports Visibility and Current language is Malay (Bahasa February. www.borneodivers.info diver can find numerous challenges Visibility at most of the diving locations Malaysia). Other languages: Methods of payment Adventure Journey World Travel here. and are near to the coast decreases greatly Chinese, English and Tamil. Electricity 220 V, 50 Hz. The BIG CITIES: ATMs. VISA, Master- www.borneo.org/ajwt available on the neighbouring island of after rain because sediment is swept English is widespread. plugs are of the British type. card, American Express accept- Sipadan Dive Centre Sdn Bhd Mabul, where many photographers will out into the sea. But at Sipadan, which Ordinary European plugs require ed. RURAL AREAS: Cash only. Tips www.mattasabah.com/sipadandive also be pleased to find E-6 developing. rises directly from the ocean bed, vis- Currency Malay Ringit (RM). adaptors loaned out at hotels. if any, are usually included in It is rather a question of whether or ibility is generally quite unaffected by Exchange rate: 1 RM=.26 USD hotel and restaurant bills. KAPALAI & SIPADAN not you want to spend your money on rainfall, and a visibility of under 30 m or .20 EUR; GNP per capita: US$ Health Public hospitals accept Pulau Sipadan Resort & Tours a travelling companion who perhaps is a rarity. One can dive at Sipadan 3.890; Income: agriculture 42%, tourists in the case of accidents. Travel agents/tourism www.mattasabah.com might not be able to really understand the whole year, but the visibility can service 39%, industry 19% But talk to your travel agent Sabah Tourism & Promotion and appreciate Sipadan. When all is change greatly from one day to the about travel insurance. European www.sabahtourism.com SARAWAK said and done, it costs a great deal next. Entry requirements national health insurance certifi- Sabah Hotel Association (SHA) Sarawak Tourism Board more to go to Sipadan Island, than say, There can be strong currents around Passport valid for six months cates are not valid for travel out- www.borneo-online.com.my/hotel www.sarawaktourism.com staying a week at the Red Sea, due to Sipadan, or there can be none. required. Visas are issued on side Europe. Vaccinations are not the cost of air travel to a desination half Especially around Barracuda Point arrival at no cost. Weapons or required at present, unless one is Dive-operators/resorts SABAH way around the world. and South Point, there can be quite a walkie-talkies are not permitted. arriving from an area where yel- MABUL Sepilok Nature Resort But everyone, whatever their level of ‘storm’ under the water, which requires Smuggling of narcotics is punish- low fever has been confirmed. Sipadan-Mabul Resort * sepilok.com competence, will bring home the expe- good physical condition of divers. But able by death in both Malaysia According to the local authorities, www.sipadan-mabul.com.my rience of a lifetime. Especially so if you good visibility and good captains on and Singapore. cholera and malaria have mostly Sipadan Water Village Resort * Resort has nitrox and round off the trip with an excursion into the dive boats make it easy to go on an been eradicated in the area. But www.swvresort.com See directory page for more info the jungle to see the proboscis mon- entertaining current-dive. ■

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