Alpine Rescue Team Blue Book
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Too Important to Fail: the Problem of Aging Bolts Page 8
VERTICAL TIMES The National Publication of the Access Fund Winter 15/Volume 104 www.accessfund.org Too Important to Fail: The Problem of Aging Bolts page 8 SIX THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU CLIMB IN THE DESERT 5 INSIDE SCOOP: INDIAN CREEK 6 CLIMBERS PARTNER WITH CITY TO OPEN NEW DULUTH ICE PARK 7 AF Perspective year ago, we shipped off several three-ring binders, each with over 500 pages of documents, to the Land Trust Alliance (LTA) Accreditation A Commission. This was our final application to become an accredited land trust—the culmination of six years of preparation that started with our adoption of the LTA standards in 2009. The accreditation process is so thorough that the LTA recommends hiring an external consultant just to help amass the necessary documentation. They generously awarded Access Fund a $2,500 grant to do just that. We’re very proud to announce that we are now one of 317 accredited land trusts in the United States. After launching our revolving loan program to support climbing area acquisitions in 2009, and after more than two decades of supporting land acquisitions across the country, we decided it was important for Access Fund to embody the highest standards for a land trust. Our work involves consulting with and supporting local climbing organizations (LCOs), and we want to give the best advice and serve as an example. LTA accreditation is important to us, to our network of local organizations, and to the climbing community. And it took a lot of work! We aren’t planning to throw ourselves an accreditation party, but I wanted to share a little of the backstory. -
£2.00 North West Mountain Rescue Team Intruder Alarms Portable Appliance Testing Approved Contractor Fixed Wire Testing
north west mountain rescue team ANNUAL REPORT 2013 REPORT ANNUAL Minimum Donation nwmrt £2.00 north west mountain rescue team Intruder Alarms Portable Appliance Testing Approved Contractor Fixed Wire Testing AA Electrical Services Domestic, Industrial & Agricultural Installation and Maintenance Phone: 028 2175 9797 Mobile: 07736127027 26b Carncoagh Road, Rathkenny, Ballymena, Co Antrim BT43 7LW 10% discount on presentation of this advert The three Tavnaghoney Cottages are situated in beautiful Glenaan in the Tavnaghoney heart of the Antrim Glens, with easy access to the Moyle Way, Antrim Hills Cottages & Causeway walking trails. Each cottage offers 4-star accommodation, sleeping seven people. Downstairs is a through lounge with open plan kitchen / dining, a double room (en-suite), a twin room and family bathroom. Upstairs has a triple room with en-suite. All cottages are wheelchair accessible. www.tavnaghoney.com 2 experience the magic of geological time travel www.marblearchcavesgeopark.com Telephone: +44 (0) 28 6634 8855 4 Contents 6-7 Foreword Acknowledgements by Davy Campbell, Team Leader Executive Editor 8-9 nwmrt - Who we are Graeme Stanbridge by Joe Dowdall, Operations Officer Editorial Team Louis Edmondson 10-11 Callout log - Mountain, Cave, Cliff and Sea Cliff Rescue Michael McConville Incidents 2013 Catherine Scott Catherine Tilbury 12-13 Community events Proof Reading Lowland Incidents Gillian Crawford 14-15 Search and Rescue Teams - Where we fit in Design Rachel Beckley 16-17 Operations - Five Days in March Photography by Graeme Stanbridge, Chairperson Paul McNicholl Anthony Murray Trevor Quinn 18-19 Snowbound by Archie Ralston President Rotary Club Carluke 20 Slemish Challenge 21 Belfast Hills Walk 23 Animal Rescue 25 Mountain Safety nwmrt would like to thank all our 28 Contact Details supporters, funders and sponsors, especially Sports Council NI 5 6 Foreword by Davy Campbell, Team Leader he north west mountain rescue team was established in Derry City in 1980 to provide a volunteer search and rescue Tservice for the north west of Northern Ireland. -
Ice Gear 2009 Gear Guide AUSTRIALPIN HU.GO
Ice Gear 2009 Gear Guide better swing control; the longer axes are good for glacier travel. Technical and mixed, curve- shafted tools fall in the 45-to-55cm range; size there to preference. Ice Gear Shaft. The classic mountain tool has a straight shaft, for anchor/boot-axe belays or WIth Ice clImbIng, as aid, upward progress allow you to switch out mono and dual front- walking-stick use. For steep ice, curved shafts relies almost directly on gear. Accordingly, ice points, too. offer better swing ‘n’ stick, knuckle protection, gear is highly specialized and typically falls bindings. The basic styles are strap-on, and clearance over bulges. into one of three categories: mountain use/ hybrid, and step-in. For mountain travel, strap- grip. A straight tool sans rubber grip is prefer- AUSTRIALPIN HU.GO glacier travel, waterfall- and pure-ice climbing, ons typically suffice and work with all boots; able for mountain use, where you’ll be posthol- With all the super-specialized ice or mixed climbing/dry tooling. hybrids require a sturdier boot with a heel ing through snow. For technical ice and mixed tools these days, it’s unusual to find welt; and step-ins fit stiffer boots with both use, a molded-rubber grip delivers purchase one so multipurpose — the Austri- Crampons heel and toe welts. and insulation against the shaft. Technical ice There are crampons for all types of climb- tools typically have pinky catches, for even Alpin (austrialpin.net) HU.go ing, from getting purchase on slick slopes to Ice Tools better grip. For hardcore ice and mixed, the Gear breaks the mold with a vari- inverted heel hooking. -
Current Status of Medical Training in Mountain Rescue in America and Europe
IKAR Rec M 0025 International Commission for Alpine Rescue Commission for Mountain Emergency Medicine (ICAR MEDCOM) Current Status of Medical Training in Mountain Rescue in America and Europe OFFICIAL RECOMMENDATION OF THE INTERNATIONAL COMMISSION FOR MOUNTAIN EMERGENCY MEDICINE (ICAR MEDCOM) Fidel Elsensohn,1,2 Thomas Niederklapfer,3 John Ellerton,2,4 Michael Swangard,2,5 Hermann Brugger,6 and Peter Paal2,7 1: Austrian Mountain Rescue Service, International Commission for Mountain Emergency Medicine, Roethis, Austria. 2: International Commission for Mountain Emergency Medicine. 3:Department of Experimental Anesthesiology, Innsbruck Medical University, Innsbruck, Austria. 4:Mountain Rescue Council England and Wales, Penrith, Cumbria, England. 5:Canadian Ski Patrol. 6:Mountain Rescue Service provided by the South Tyrolean Alpine Association, International Commission for Mountain Emergency Medicine, Bruneck, Italy. 7: Department of Anesthesiology and Critical Care Medicine, Innsbruck Medical University, Innsbruck, Austria. This article reflects the consensus of opinion of the International Commission for Mountain Emergency Medicine which has full responsibility for the content. Reprinted from HIGH ALTITUDE MEDICINE & BIOLOGY Volume 10, Number 2, 2009 © Mary Ann Liebert, Inc. DOI: 10.1089=ham.2008.1074 HIGH ALTITUDE MEDICINE & BIOLOGY Volume 10, Number 2, 2009 ª Mary Ann Liebert, Inc. DOI: 10.1089=ham.2008.1074 Current Status of Medical Training in Mountain Rescue in America and Europe Fidel Elsensohn,1,2 Thomas Niederklapfer,3 John Ellerton,2,4 Michael Swangard,2,5 Hermann Brugger,6 and Peter Paal2,7 Abstract Elsensohn, Fidel, Thomas Niederklapfer, John Ellerton, Michael Swangard, Hermann Brugger, and Peter Paal. Current status of medical training in mountain rescue in America and Europe. -
Scotland to Set the Scene for Mountain Rescue Weekend
MOUNTAIN RESCUE CONFERENCE SCOTLAND TO SET THE SCENE FOR MOUNTAIN RESCUE WEEKEND The Scottish Highlands will provide the backdrop for the UK and Ireland Mountain Rescue biennial conference on 12-14 September, which will see mountain rescue teams from the Republic of Ireland, Scotland, England, Wales and Northern Ireland come together to share and build on best practice throughout the rescue community. ountain rescue in Ireland and the UK is often WORKSHOPS TO KEEP TRACK OF BEST undertaken in some of PRACTICE the most remote and The two-day gathering of mountain rescue Mpotentially hostile environmental conditions volunteers will involve up to 30 small group experienced by the emergency services. workshops organised across the following five Highly professional mountain rescue ‘tracks’, as diverse as canyon rescue, river bank- volunteers are organised in teams across side searching, rope work and mountain safety the Republic of Ireland, Northern Ireland, topics: Scotland, England and Wales. Teams train to a very high standard and are always 1. Technical Land Rescue: Rigging for rescue, ready to assist people any time, any day, 4×4 vehicle recovery to mountain biking. and in any weather. 2. Water Rescue: Technical water-related issues, such as canyon rescue and Every two years the UK and Irish riverbank searching. Mountain Rescue community holds a 3. Medical: Casualty management and the latest thinking on treating the conference; in 2014 it comes to the village hypothermic casualty. of Aviemore in the Cairngorms National 4. Human Factors: Developing rescue leaders to best practice in rescue trauma Park in the Scottish Highlands. counselling for volunteer rescuers. -
Colorado Fourteeners Checklist
Colorado Fourteeners Checklist Rank Mountain Peak Mountain Range Elevation Date Climbed 1 Mount Elbert Sawatch Range 14,440 ft 2 Mount Massive Sawatch Range 14,428 ft 3 Mount Harvard Sawatch Range 14,421 ft 4 Blanca Peak Sangre de Cristo Range 14,351 ft 5 La Plata Peak Sawatch Range 14,343 ft 6 Uncompahgre Peak San Juan Mountains 14,321 ft 7 Crestone Peak Sangre de Cristo Range 14,300 ft 8 Mount Lincoln Mosquito Range 14,293 ft 9 Castle Peak Elk Mountains 14,279 ft 10 Grays Peak Front Range 14,278 ft 11 Mount Antero Sawatch Range 14,276 ft 12 Torreys Peak Front Range 14,275 ft 13 Quandary Peak Mosquito Range 14,271 ft 14 Mount Evans Front Range 14,271 ft 15 Longs Peak Front Range 14,259 ft 16 Mount Wilson San Miguel Mountains 14,252 ft 17 Mount Shavano Sawatch Range 14,231 ft 18 Mount Princeton Sawatch Range 14,204 ft 19 Mount Belford Sawatch Range 14,203 ft 20 Crestone Needle Sangre de Cristo Range 14,203 ft 21 Mount Yale Sawatch Range 14,200 ft 22 Mount Bross Mosquito Range 14,178 ft 23 Kit Carson Mountain Sangre de Cristo Range 14,171 ft 24 Maroon Peak Elk Mountains 14,163 ft 25 Tabeguache Peak Sawatch Range 14,162 ft 26 Mount Oxford Collegiate Peaks 14,160 ft 27 Mount Sneffels Sneffels Range 14,158 ft 28 Mount Democrat Mosquito Range 14,155 ft 29 Capitol Peak Elk Mountains 14,137 ft 30 Pikes Peak Front Range 14,115 ft 31 Snowmass Mountain Elk Mountains 14,099 ft 32 Windom Peak Needle Mountains 14,093 ft 33 Mount Eolus San Juan Mountains 14,090 ft 34 Challenger Point Sangre de Cristo Range 14,087 ft 35 Mount Columbia Sawatch Range -
Face the Uni! Challenges
FACE THE UNI! CHALLENGES Describe this project in four words: THEME: INVENTIONS - ENERGY – ENVIRONMENT 05 TRANSPORT - EDUCATION & SOCIAL TOURISM & CULTURE UNI ! THEME sheets Draw what you remember about SOS MOUNTAIN DOCTORS this project: Every day, the European Union (EU) invests in its nearly 300 regions. The UNI! THEME sheets will help you discover dozens of examples showing the work of the EU’s regional policy. They cover many areas like the environment, education, health, energy and transport. Here is one of these stories... A WORD FROM MR VITALITY, OUR EDUCATION AND SOCIAL EXPERT I love the mountains, they make me feel alive! The mountains are a place to live, have fun or work, but they are also a dangerous place where healthcare can be hard to access… Have a health question before or during a trip in the mountains? Ask SOS MAM! WHAT OUR TWITTERATI EXPERTS SAY… In the Alps, health professionals have created SOS MAM: a solidarity project for healthcare, training and rescue in the mountains. #top Regional and Urban Policy IT’S A GREAT PROJECT! Online doctor and health guide The mountains do not care about countries or borders, so it is important for the people who live there to work together. SOS MAM has created remote telephone and teleconference medical centres. If the weather or an accident makes travel Sharing resources, knowledge and skills is good for everyone. impossible, this allows people in the mountains to speak The French and the Swiss know this: with EU assistance, to a doctor. they are helping each other, and talking to people in the Additionally, the SOS MAM centre helps travel specialists who MORE mountains around the world. -
2019 Work Catalog
FIRE & RESCUE / CLIMB / TOWER TACTICAL / ROPE ACCESS / ARBOR WORK 2019 The top triangle embodies the will of humanity and the drive to ascend ever upward. Aiding people in the battle against the negative force of gravity is at the center of Sterling's reason for being. When you can be bold, courageous and safe, you can own the moment. We call that Freedom to Focus. The bottom triangle serves as the force of gravity, seeking always to ground us. 2019 FEATURED PRODUCT Escape System Lightning GT Unparalleled performance. Unmatched customization. At Sterling we’re dedicated to fire fighter safety. We pioneered the development of escape systems SafeD™ that allow rapid egress and self- Carabiner rescue – all built on the foundation of our proven, trusted ropes. The FCX Escape System is our latest innovation designed around FCX™ Device the needs of fire fighters and departments. FireTech2 Rope Abrasion Resistant Reinforced Pocket Bag A portion of every Sterling FCX Escape System sold is donated to the Lt. Joseph P. DiBernardo Memorial Foundation. Proudly For additional details, specifications, and Certified to 1983 Made in U.S.A. customization options see page 36 or contact NFPA Escape System with U.S. and Globally Sourced Material our sales team. Our Pledge is Simple We have committed to ourselves and to those who use and rely on our products that we’ll never compromise quality; we’ll never stop innovating real-world solutions, and we’ll deliver the most reliable equipment possible. At Sterling, we’re proud to design and build all of our Life- Safety Rope under one roof in Biddeford, Maine. -
Pikes Peak 1911 1923 2 William F. Ervin (#1 & #2 Tie) Pikes Peak 1911 1923 3 Albert Ellingwood 4 Mary Cronin Longs Peak 1921 9 1934 5 Carl Melzer 1937 6 Robert B
EVERYONE WHO HAS COMPLETED THE COLORADO FOURTEENERS (By Year of Completion) 1 Carl Blaurock (#1 & #2 tie) Pikes Peak 1911 1923 2 William F. Ervin (#1 & #2 tie) Pikes Peak 1911 1923 3 Albert Ellingwood 4 Mary Cronin Longs Peak 1921 9 1934 5 Carl Melzer 1937 6 Robert B. Melzer 1937 7 Elwyn Arps Eolus, Mt. 1920 7 1938 8 Joe Merhar Pyramid Peak 8 1938 9 O. P. Settles Longs Peak 1927 7 1939 10 Harry Standley Elbert, Mt. 1923 9 1939 11 Whitney M. Borland Pikes Peak 6 1941 12 Vera DeVries Longs Peak 1936 Kit Carson Peak 8 1941 13 Robert M. Ormes Pikes Peak Capitol Peak 8 1941 14 Jack Graham 9 1941 15 John Ambler 9 1943 16 Paul Gorham Pikes Peak 1926 8 1944 17 Ruth Gorham Grays Peak 1933 8 1944 18 Henry Buchtel Longs Peak 1946 19 Herb Hollister Longs Peak 1927 7 1947 20 Roy Murchison Longs Peak 1908 8 1947 21 Evelyn Runnette Longs Peak 1931 Uncompahgre Peak 9 1947 22 Marian Rymer Longs Peak 1926 Crestones 9 1948 23 Charles Rymer Longs Peak 1927 Crestones 9 1948 24 Nancy E. Nones (Perkins) Quandary 1937 Eolus, Mt. 9 1948 25 John Spradley Longs Peak 1943 7 1949 26 Eliot Moses Longs Peak 1921 7 1949 27 Elizabeth S. Cowles Lincoln, Mt. 9 1932 Wetterhorn Peak 9 1949 28 Dorothy Swartz Crestones 8 1950 29 Robert Swartz Bross, Mt. 1941 Crestones 8 1950 30 Ted Cooper Longs Peak 8 1950 31 Stirling Cooper Longs Peak 8 1950 32 Harold Brewer Longs Peak 1937 El Diente 9 1950 33 Wilbur F. -
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Victorian Climbing Community Revision: V04 Published: 15 Sept 2020 1 Contributing Authors: Matthew Brooks - content manager and writer Ashlee Hendy Leigh Hopkinson Kevin Lindorff Aaron Lowndes Phil Neville Matthew Tait Glenn Tempest Mike Tomkins Steven Wilson Endorsed by: Crag Stewards Victoria VICTORIAN CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 15 SEPTEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Victorian climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. Discussions on these themes have been on-going in the local Victorian and wider Australian climbing communities for many decades. These discussions highlighted a need to broaden the ways for climbers to build collaborative relationships with Traditional Owners and land managers. Over the years, a number of endeavours to build and strengthen such relationships have been undertaken; Victorian climbers have been involved, for example, in a variety of collaborative environmental stewardship projects with Land Managers and Traditional Owners over the last two decades in particular, albeit in an ad hoc manner, as need for such projects have become apparent. The recent widespread climbing bans in the Grampians / Gariwerd have re-energised such discussions and provided a catalyst for reflection on the impacts of climbing, whether inadvertent or intentional, negative or positive. This has focussed considerations of how negative impacts on the environment or cultural heritage can be avoided or minimised and on those climbing practices that are most appropriate, respectful and environmentally sustainable. -
BMC Position Statement on Drilled Equipment and Dry Tooling
P10 Management Regulations B R I T I S H M OUNTAINEERING C OUNCIL 177-179 Burton Road Tel: 0161 445 6111 Manchester M20 2BB Fax: 0161 445 4500 www.thebmc.co.uk e-mail: [email protected] BMC position statements on Drilled Equipment and Dry Tooling Introduction This document sets out the BMC’s position on the separate but related issues of drilled equipment and dry tooling as agreed by National Council on 8 February 2014. a. Drilled Equipment Background The BMC’s position on drilled equipment was debated by the Area Meetings and National Council in 2012-2014; this position statement was agreed by National Council on 8 February 2014. For the purposes of this document drilled equipment refers to bolts and drilled pegs (i.e. pegs placed in drill holes), and retro-bolting refers to the placing of drilled equipment in a position where there was previously no drilled equipment in place. BMC position British climbing has a rich history and a well-established code of ethics which has evolved over many years through debate amongst climbers. The BMC recognises that, as the representative body for mountaineering in England and Wales, it is the de facto guardian of the heritage of the sport in all its forms. The BMC strongly supports the approach to climbing based on leader-placed protection which makes use of natural rock features. The diversity of climbing styles and the existence of ‘bolt free’ areas are distinct and internationally important aspects of British climbing. It is the responsibility of all climbers to promote and respect agreed drilled equipment policies. -
Longs Peak, the Diamond. in August, 1960, Two Californians, Bob Kamps and Dave Rearick, Made the First Ascent of the Diamond ( A.A.J ., 1961, 12:2, Pp
Longs Peak, The Diamond. In August, 1960, two Californians, Bob Kamps and Dave Rearick, made the first ascent of the Diamond ( A.A.J ., 1961, 12:2, pp. 297-301.) Their route goes straight up the center of the 1000-foot face. Two years later Layton Kor and Charles Roskosz, both of Colorado, completed a new route, “The Yellow W all” , about 100 yards left of the Kamps-Rearick route. Though on less steep and better rock, the Yellow Wall is more circuitous and has a harder aid pitch. On July 13, after making the second ascent of the original route, Kor and I established a new one, “The Jack of Diamonds” . The “Jack” stands just right of the Kamps-Rearick, and like that route, has a rotten section which overhangs for 400 feet. Although the nailing is slightly easier on the Jack, the free climbing is more difficult than either of the other two routes. The night before the ascent, we bivouacked on Broadway, a huge ledge at the base of the Diamond. Kor slept placidly, but next day all his famous energy and drive became focused upon the problem of getting up this new route. The day dawned with the sun shining warmly through a clear blue sky, but by noon clouds had gathered and a strong wind numbed our fingers. The weather worsened as we climbed higher, and in the afternoon snow flurries swirled around us. Nearing the top, we fought an insidious exhaustion caused by altitude, cold, and our daylong struggle. Racing against the setting sun to avoid a bad night in slings, Kor led the last pitch, a long, strenuous jam-crack.