Shrinagar

Srinagar is the heart of the Valley, still preserves the imprints of the Mughals and the British. The valley takes great pride in its lakes, gardens and the charming rows of houseboats floating on them. Popular for traditional Kashmiri handicrafts, kashmiri clothes and dry fruits, is bordered by five districts. To its northern side is Kargil, in the south is and in the north-west lies . "If there is a heaven on earth, it's here, it's here, it's here", exclaimed the Mughal emperor Jahangir on his first visit to this place.

Srinagar has the privilege of having a multifaceted and unique cultural blend, making it different from the rest of the country, not only from the cultural front, but in point of geography, demography, ethics and social entities. as well. With its beautiful picturesque Himalayan backdrop, the crowning glory of hill stations Srinagar is enticed by the colourful houseboats , shikaras and the grandeur of Mughal sense of style.

Sri means Lakshmi or wealth and „nagar‟ a city. The summer capital of J&K State, Srinagar city has a vital role in the . For this reason, Persian chronicles call it Shehr-e- Kashmir or 'City of Kashmir'.

According to Kalhana‟s „Rajtarangini‟,Srinagri was founded by King Ashoka in 3rd century BC near Panderethan about 8 km from the present city Srinagri remained capital until the new city of Pravarapura was founded by Parvarasana II in AD 630 near Hari Parbat, which is the present city. Years after the new city also assumed the name of Srinagri since both cities were near to each other. Hiuen Tsang the Chinese traveler mentions Paravapura as the capital when he traveled to Kashmir in 631 AD. The choice of Parvarasana Il is considered impeccable as the present Srinagar city is supposed to be almost equidistant from , Rawalpindi, Leh and Gilgit through the old routes.

Every ruler chiseled a new shape of Srinagar and emphasized on better connectivity with surrounding areas. Srinagar has both medieval charm and a touch of modernity. The city is surrounded by awesome mountains and river Jehlum meanders through it. The old city bazaars,malls and shopping centers around Lal chowk reflect her importance as a commercial hub.Here, months could pass sightseeing at different locations, be it historical or religious places, gardens or lakes, craft bazaars or stone carving centres, places of poets or saints, wildlife sanctuaries or trout hatcheries - its a destination that always remains a discovery for visitors.

Lal Chowk and Residency Road, one finds selling stylish clothes and fast food specialities, located in some of the best shopping malls and lively streets open throughout the day and late evenings.

Connected by more than a dozen bridges over river Jehlum flowing across the city, a major portion of the old city is named after these bridges such as Amira Kadal, Budshah Kadal, Habba Kadal, Fateh Kadal, Zaina Kadal, Nawa Kadal, Aali Kadal and Safa Kadal and more. Zaina Hal, the first wooden bridge, was Kadal and more.Zaina Kadal,the first wooden bridge,was constructed by Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin.

Gulmarg

Gulmarg is having the best ski resort in the country. The place maintains the standards naturally friendly service for which Kashmir is famed. It has been identified european skiing resort in the past. It holds a position as one of the highest lift served ski resorts in the world. Kashmir is also one of world‟s best heli skiing regions with thousands of possible 2200 meter descents. Gulmarg hosts several national winter games championships and recently in 2008. The slopes provide excellent opportunities to cross country and downhill skiing events. The resort has modern infrastructure helps in keeping the slopes fit for skiing and other winter sports related activities all times.

The gentle slopes, having runs of upto 200 meters, are the best for beginners while the steeper runs of 500 meters for intermediate level skiers, and yet other stretches of over 2500 meters, precipitously steep, for top level skiers. T-bars and chair lifts, on five runs for beginners and intermediates, are operated throughout the day.

Gulmarg also offers heli-skiing, being the first destination in asia to do so. A helicopter takes you upto the apherwat peak from where you choose your own descent route.

In winters you can use toboggans, sledges, snow cycles and Snow Scooters. To get on the next level of Adventure, fun and excitement that snow generates

The tempting ski doos are used for patrolling during winter. Visitors can try their luck for a ride on one of these. Gulmarg is famous among skiers for its unique powdery snow, natural slopes and suitable combination of snow with sunshine. British Army Officers, Maj. Metcarp and Maj. Hadow, set up the first Ski Club of at Gulmarg in 1927.

Today, every ski event from Giant Slalom to lnternational standard cross-country is organised in Gulmarg. Ski Training Courses are organised by J&K Youth Services & Sports and Indian Institute of Skiing & Mountaineering having offices in Gulmarg and Srinagar. The skiing courses generally start from December when substantial volume of snow is present. Championships are also organised by some private resort owners in Gulmarg. Ski equipment is available at government- run ski shops and private ones as well. T-Bar ski lifts are available for beginners and intermediate skiers

Professional skiiers passionately ski down from the Apharwat mountain base and snow board lovers try sliding from Kongdori and around Gulmarg, enticing watchers to try their feet on the board.

White Christmas celebration and Snow Festival including ski competitions are held every year in Gulmarg with much fanfare . Gulmorg gets snowfall periodically from November to April, sometimes above 15 ft and mostly gets the first and last snowfall of the Valley.

Kargil

District Kargil with an area of 15000 sq km is constituted by the tributaries of high Indus . Kargil town, is the second largest town of Ladakh region, a valley that cultivates apricots in large quantity. It gets more rainfall than rest of Ladakh, produces plenty of wheat and vegetables. Kargil is generally a stopover on the way to Leh from Srinagar. Hotels and guest houses are very few. It is a gateway to Suru and valley. Kargil is inhabited by people known as Purig-pa, population is mostly of Shia Muslims and Buddhists in some of the areas who speak Purig language. The word Purig is derived from Pad-rigs which means Tibetian like. The people of Kargil region are said to have originated from Dards and Tibetian nomads who got settled along the river valleys. While

walking through Kargil main market, one can observe the men with Tibetan looks wearing grey robes & a turban and women with their heads covered by a scarf. The architectural wonders can be observed in & outside the Imambaras around the Kargil town. Kargil is a base from where most adventurous trek originate. Kargil offers thrilling opportunities of camping and mountaineering.

How to Access

The SRTC coaches departing morning from Srinagar charge Rs.320 for deluxe coach and Rs. 240 for semi-deluxe coach. Coaches operate from Leh to Kargil daily. Many private taxis/jeeps are available for Kargil from taxi stands Srinagar and Leh.

Places of Interest Drass

60 km west of Kargil on the Srinagar-Leh highway is said to be the second coldest inhabited place in the world.This fascinating place is inhibited by Drads of lower Indus valley also known as Drok-pa, who speak Shina language and belong tribes from Gilgit. These people described as direct descendants of pure Indo-Aryan tribe which is visible by their physical features tall , fair and robust.The infamous Tiger hill is clearly visible from the main highway in Drass village. Trek to Mushkoh valley from Drass is a favorite among the adventure travellers.

Mini Marg 50 km down towards Zojila is the picturesque valley of Mini Marg, a meadow compared to the Sonarnarg for its green pastures, plains and murmuring river, mostly inhabited by rear their cattles.

Mulbek (3230 m) 45 km east of Kargil is dominated by Buddhist population and has a most attractive 9 mtr high rock sculpture of Maitreya Buddha. Mulbek monestary is situated atop a rocky hill offering a spectacular view.

Where to Eat

Kargil market has quite a few good restaurants and dhabas where the visitors can have day meals. Eating out at the respective hotels is mostly preferred by the tourists in Kargil.

Leh

Flying into Leh, the cold desert land, over the magnificent Himalayas is a beautiful and scary experience at once. Leh Palace illuminated by huge halogen lamps looks like a bewitching castle on a hilltop set ablaze in the dark nights of the Leh. Drive in the city is as exciting as the wonders it has in its lap with the long isolated winding road that opens up into a sheer expanse of arid flatness in burnt sienna. There is blinding sun at the top and perhaps at the first impression, a visitor is not likely to appreciate the blessings of the land fully.

A historic town that served as the royal capital of the Old Kingdom, Leh boasts of a nine-storey palace built by King Singge Namgyol in 17 century. It is a miniature replica of Patala Palace in Lhasa. The ruins of Leh palace overlooks the entire city of Leh and the Indus valley and signifies Ladakhs rich heritage.

Above the palace is the Namgyol Tsemo (Red temple). The ruins of Tsemo Gompa (victory palace) a part of the earliest royal residence built by King. Tashi Namgyal in the 16th century. The associated temples are kept locked except during the morning and evening hours, when monks from Sankar Gompa climb the hill to light the butter-lamps placed in front of the images.

The Fort Road follows to Skara, another pretty and prosperous suburb of Leh town, and one can admire the earthen ramparts of Zorawar Singh‟s fort, now housing army barracks.

Bon and Buddhism rule the lifestyle and culture of the people here. The Chortens (Stupas) and enchanting Gompas (Monasteries) adorn the city with their presence. The landscape is breathtakingly beautiful and there is an ominous beauty in the stark surroundings of Ladakh. The Hinayana Buddhist way of life lends a benevolent spirit to the very air of the region.

Jammu

Jammu is the Duggar land where the past still has a living presence. It is the land of grand ancient temples, and beautiful palaces all nestling in the foothills of the Himalayas. It is said that, on becoming King, the Suryavanshi Jammu Lochan went on a hunt and, crossing the Tawi, found a deer and a tiger drinking water from the same tank. His ministers explained that this meant that the soil of the place was so virtuous that no living creature bore enmity against another. Raja Jambu Lochan, who lived in the later Vedic period, decided to found his capital, Jambupura, on his soil, on the right bank of the Tawi, overlooking his brother king Bahu's fort. Today the temple of Maha Kali (better known as Bahu or Bawey Wali Mata), located in the Bahufort, is considered second only to Mata Vaishno Devi in terms of mystical

power. The present temple was built shortly after the coronation of , in 1822. The existing fort, as well as the Manasabdar's palace inside it, was constructed in 1820.

Jammu is justly famous for its temples. In fact it is known as the city of temples and the every fame of its, tends to overshadow its palaces, forts, forests and powerful ziarats. If Bahu Mata is the presiding deity of Jammu, the Dargah of Peer Budhan Ali Shah is the other shrine that protects Jammuites. The other major tourist attraction is the Raghunath Temple Complex. Maharaja Gulab Singh began the construction of the Raghunath Mandir Complex in the crowded downtown Bazaar named after it, in 1851. It was left to his son, Ranbir Singh, to inaugurate it six years later perhaps the most popular temple north of Benares, it contains representations of almost entire Hindu pantheon, though the emphasis falls on the various incarnations of Lord Vishnu. The complex houses a rich collection of ancient texts and manuscripts.

Bestowed with innumerable temples, this “City of Temples” has people of several races and mixed culture spreading from Chenab to Ravi. Situated at an altitude of 305 meters, surrounded by Pirpanjal and Sivalik mountains, Jammu, the capital of J&K, has climate similar to northern India. Popular as , Jammuites are friendly in nature and born warriors. For decades, they have paved the way for the tourists traveling into the state.

Rajdarshani ascribes the foundation of Jammu to about 3650 BC. Kingdom of solar race of Ayodahya spread over Shivalik hills to river Ravi & Chenab when Sudharshana the 20th descendant of Rama ruled Ayodhya. His younger son, Agnigir migrated to Shivalik hills and traveling through Nagrota, reached the banks of Ravi and ruled of Bupanagri, the present . Agnigir was succeeded by chiefships of many Rajas, one of whom was Agnigarbha who had 18 sons and was succeeded by his eldest son Bahu Lochan who founded Bahu Nagar (today Bahu Fort stands here). His brother Jambu Lochan, who ruled during 6th century in Kalyuga, i.e 2500 BC, expanded his dominion and desired to build his capital at an ideal place. One day while hunting, he saw a deer and a tiger drinking at the same pond. He was informed that the soil of the place excelled in virtues, so no living creature bore animosity against each other He founded a new town at this spot and called it Jambupura (today Purani Mandi stands here). Jambu Lochan was succeeded by his son Puran Karan who shifted capital from Bahu Nagar to newly founded Jammu. Down the line, successors ruled Jammu and extended the kingdom Kashmir. Thereafter, Jammu saw many rulers from dynasties of Dutts, Devs, Dhars and many more till Amir Timur occupied Delhi in 1398. He entered Shivaliks, Kangra and crossed Trikuta hills to conquer Jammu in 1399, marching from Mansar. Dogra Rajas again took over the charge of Jammu between 15th and 17th century.

In AD 1800 Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab took over Lahore and marched to Jammu.In AD 1812, Jammu assigned as Jagir to his elder son, Prince Kharak Singh. On realizing the spirit of Jamwals, Mian Mota of Jammu was made the Minister by Sikhs. Maharaja Ranjit Singh selected Gulab Singh and his brother Dhyan Singh to rule Jammu in AD 1813. Gulab Singh‟s grateful sovereign bestowed him Jammu as his Jagir and he became Maharaja in AD 1822. He appointed Zarawar Singh as Hakim of who further advanced to Ladakh, Baltistan and Tibet for expansion of the empire.

Maharaja Ranjit Singh entrusted Gulab Singh with administration of large territories and transferred the lease of Gujarat in AD 1830, which yielded huge revenue. After Maharaja Ranjit Singhs death, Gulab Singh succeeded in getting control,of Sialkot and appointed a governor in Peshawar He purchased Kashmir from the British against a sum of money, same cattle, gifts and a yearly tribute under the treaty of Amritsar in AD 1846. His forces joined the British troops and he got the title of Maharaja of Jammu, Kashmir. Thereafter Jammu.Kashmir and Ladakh became the empire of Dogras whose rule lasted upto 1947.

How to Access National Highway 1A connects Jammu with rest of India. Most northern State Road Transport Corporations like Punjab, Haryana, Himachal Pradesh and Delhi have daily bus services to Jammu. J&KSRTC has daily bus service from Delhi to Jammu in A/C and non-A/C coaches. Luxury coaches of private transporters operate from various cities to Jammu. Buses start in the evening generally from Tees Hazari and Red Fort in old Delhi and Connaught Circus in New Delhi.The highway passes through villages fertile land of north India, Transport facility of all kinds is available at taxi stands at the Airport, Railway Station, TRC Jammu and other parts of the city.

Travel agents and local transporters arrange taxisightseeing and inter/outer state services. Ordinar luxury coaches ply on most of the destination routes, starting from - Bus Stand as well as from the highway.

Maa Vaishno Devi The holy cave shrine of Mata Vaishno Devi is located at a height of 5,300 feet in a beautiful recess of the Trikuta mountains, forming a part of the lower Himalayas in Jammu and Kashmir.

The journey here takes you through awesome wilderness amidst snow- capped mountains and sprawling forests, to the shrine, sacred and mystical.

Every day of the year scores of devotees ascend steep pathways that cut across the hillside. A common faith among people is that goddess Vaishno Devi sends a 'call' to her devotees; and once heralded, the pilgrim finds himself

compelled to march towards the holy shrine of the great goddess. It is believed that a supernatural power seems to draw pilgrims across the mountains, so they climb those great heights, step by step, chanting "prem se bolo, Jai Mata di". Even those who are unused to walking the slightest distances, accomplish the difficult ascent of innumerable stairs. Popular belief holds that anybody who walks the Himalayan trail to Mata Vaishno Devi's abode to ask for a boon does not return disappointed.

There are many who journey here year after year to pay obeisance regardless of their faith, creed or class, caste or religion, because Mata Vaishno Devi transcends all such artificial barriers.

Katra, a small town in the foothills of Trikuta, serves as the base camp to the Mata Vaishnodevi Yatris. The shrine is approachable on foot along a 12 km path from Katra. Every year, nearly 6 million pilgrims visit Mata Vaishnodevi. The shrine has been a beacon of faith and fulfillment to millions of devotees. Popular belief holds that anybody who walks the trail to the goddess abode rarely goes back disappointed. The holy shrine contains the holiest of holy Pindis, manifesting the Mata in three forms Maha Kali, Maha Lakshmi and Maha Saraswati representing Creative, Preservative Destructive aspect of Mata.

It is said that a man named Sridhar discovered the cave; he lived nearKatra and was a devotee of Mata. Sridhar had no children and worshiped little girls. One day Mata appeared in his dream and revealed to him her cave abode, goddess blessed him four sons. Sridhar worshiped at the cave and since then his descedants perform as pandits at the holy cave. It is believed that the Yatra is not complete unless the pilgrim visits Bhairon ka Mandir as well (2.6 km from the main shrine).

Yatris on reaching Katr need to get a Parchi (registration slip) from Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine Board (SMVDSB) counters near the Bus Stand. Counter No.1 for 1 to 9 persons & counter No 2 for 10 persons and above. Counters are from 6 am to11 pm. Pithus, palkiwalas and ponywalas registered with the authorities are available from Katra to Banganga. The rates from Katra shrine and back are fixed as per the weight of luggage and yatri. Yatris are advised to check identities hired pithu,palkiwala, ponywala and note their numbers/ names in case of any kind eventuality. After darshan, one must not miss trying maalish (Body Massage) of Katra.The maalishwala will loosen your using different massage methods and a variety of oils For your food taste, Katra is no less than a metro city.The modern Fast Food restaurants fulfil the needs of every yatri-be it Punjabi, Gujarati, Marathi, Bengali,,NRI‟s or foreigners. The food at Dhabas and Restaurants is equally tasteful and reasonable. In obeisance to Mata, the entire Katra town and nearby areas declared vegetarian and alcohol free. Katra main bazaar is full of Kashmiri handicraft items, all types of dry bhaints, gift items and other specialities from the region.