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1 Family Highlights of Provence & the Côte d’Azur

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2 1 Family Highlights E www.discover-southoffrance.com can addcolourtoyour trip: planning tovisit,localevents Whatever timeofyear you’re Best Child-friendlyEvents mendations forfamilies. my co-writersRobin and Vicki, offeryou ourtried-and-testedrecom- we have explored Provence andtheCôted’Azur, andtogetherwith At thesametimeasmixingconcrete andchangingnappies, tryside. in Monaco andrenovating farmhouseinthecoun- our17th-century years insouthernFrance, we have dividedourtimebetween working coat-tails ofmyglobetrotting executive husband.During ourfive the principalitywithapoliceescort. with trademark Monegasque efficiency, we were ejectedpromptly from nudgedourcarintoaparkedCasino, myfatherinadvertently Ferrari; Carlo, where, aswe admired ofthePlace du thegildedperfection Beaumes de Venise. Aftergraduation,myfamilydrove down toMonte charm ofMarseilles anddiscovered sweet, white en-Provence, rode whitehorsesintheCamargue,soakedupscruffy university town ofAvignon, andtogetherwe fellforCézanneinAix- I spentholidays‘down South’ –afriendwaspostedinthebeautiful onapianistattheBastidecrush deGordes inthe Vaucluse. Asastudent teens, Iwent white-waterraftingdown the Verdon Gorges andhada hands inthecelebrityhandprintsCannes’s Walk ofFame. In my As ayoung girl,Isplashedaround intheseaatFréjus andplacedmy pétanque Richerenches market; andred winefrom Châteauneuf-du-Pape. goats’ cheesewrappedinchestnutleaves from Banon; from truffles cake-like ture playgrounds. Localdelicacieswillkeepgourmandshappy:pan- younger children cantakeadvantage ofmanythemeparks andadven- ing tosailing,canyoning andwhite-waterrafting,whilethosewith across theregion. from tree-climb- Activities familiesvary forsporting likes ofMatisse, Picasso, Chagall,CézanneandRenoir galleries inart crowds intheCamargue;whileart-lovers canadmire works by the sandy beaches,orthelong,untamedcoastlinefarfrom themadding andposhnoshontheCôted’Azur’scan choosebetween watersports this southernFrench family’s region tofitevery agenda.Beachcombers beaches bordering thedazzling-blueMediterranean, there’s acornerof remote lavender fieldsofHaute Provence tothecheek-by-jowl golden A decadelater, Ireturned toMonaco asamother-to-beonthe Every familyhasitsfavoured spots.Ifirstcametothelandofpastis, u-isdcam fPoec n h ôedAu.From the sun-kissed charmsofProvence andtheCôted’Azur. veryone from theRomanstoCocoChanelhasfallenfor (French boules)andPeter Mayle onnumerous familyholidays. socca in Nice; almond-flavoured festivals takeplacehere: the Some ofEurope’s mostpopular details ofthefollowing. whole region, andincludes has event listingscovering the calissons Muscat in Aix-en-Provence; wine from Nice Family Highlights 3 (see Les Île Sainte Île Saint off the (see p. 68) houses (see p. (see p. 147). Families 147). (see p. (see p. 68) is home to 68) (see p. If you’re staying inland, you you’re If staying between Marseille and Marseille staying between catch the striking Cassis can of white fjords sight of the Cannes coastline: the Cannes coastline: the wanting to get away from it all from wanting to get away should Riviera on the French beautiful take a day trip to the Mercantour National Park Mercantour Calanques Calanques Îles des Lérins Marguerite Honorat p. 98) is a haven for endangered 98) is a haven p. for parental delectation. for parental the undisturbed can enjoy nature beauty of Provence’s reserves; the Alpes-Maritimes’s mountainous 70,000 hectare, the Lérins monks, who produce fine wines and potent liqueurs the prison cell of the Man in the Man the prison cell of the (subject of a 1998 Mask Iron film starring Leonardo the while DiCaprio), Boat to Île Saint Honorat You Fête (see Jasmine historical Expo Rose at the 13th-cen- jazz festivals (see p. 192) in (see p. (see p. 119) is cele- (see p. Children’s Festival Children’s with its lemon floats; with its lemon (see p. 61) with its (see p. – while winter-flower- mimosa Festival d’Avignon Font’Arts street music and Font’Arts street But when you do look up, do look when you But The Vaucluse plays host to Vaucluse The Grasse is famous for its flower Grasse the p. 191) with its classical music; p. and the Riviera’s don’t have to raise your head to raise your have don’t to enjoy beach towel your from best natural two of the region’s attractions: the sunshine and the Sea. bright-blue Mediterranean Those galore. treats are there du Citron du Citron tury Mornas Castle, Château de tury Mornas 191), during (see p. Mornas can take which older children part in demonstrations of sword- play and quarterstaff combat. brated in towns along the Var along the brated in towns to January coastline from spending Families March. can see Var Christmas in the and dancing dis- puppet shows plays at the reconstructions Best Natural Attractions (see p. 92) and August and August 92) (see p. 120) in Hyères. (see p. the Carnaval and Juan- in Nice 61) (see p. les-Pins. – its May festivals Festival flower parades; Menton’s Menton’s parades; flower tained by circus performers, circus mari- tained by dancers, acrobats onette theatres, and musicians performing and square the village’s around Mornas, nearby In courtyards. of the day is the order time-travel with the summertime mid-August, with children enter- with children mid-August, theatre festival theatre ing 04_723142 ch01.qxp 1/23/08 11:13 PM Page 3 Page PM 11:13 1/23/08 ch01.qxp 04_723142 04_723142 ch01.qxp1/23/0811:13PMPage4

4 1 Family Highlights family-friendly Breuil-sur-Roya andskiingin such as Merveilles Merveilles engravings inthe trip toseethepre-historic rock Roman Arles or takingthethemed p. 100)inSaint-Martin Vésubie the reserves, and oneofFrance’s nature newest for hiking.Only created in1997 and mountainflowers, isperfect an arrayofrare birds, butterflies limestone valleys thatare hometo woodland andcedar-cloaked (see p. 197),120,000hectares of Luberon RegionalNaturalPark corner ofthe Vaucluse, the flora andfauna.In thesoutheast de Saorge about wolves at Lac deSainte-Croix. (see p. 222)andtheshimmering but impressive Verdon Gorges mergeyer vultures, theterrifying as well asgolden eaglesandlam- Natural Park sports galoresports down the families are keptbusywithwater- Children alsolove learning Auron (see p. 103).Active (see p. 104)onaday (see p. 99)near Verdon Regional (see p. 224),boasts, ( Azure Alps www.auron.com Scénoparc Vallée des Train des Gorges resorts (see ), as with helipads.Beach resorts such ties, Ferraris andyachtscomplete (see p. 63)and (see p. 122)and restaurants. Glitzy galleriesand class museums,art (see p. 65)are filledwithworld- Marseille towns andcities. Vibrant some ofFrance’s best-loved Southern France ishometo Best Cities,Towns &Resorts Isola 2000 Les Calanques (accessible onlyby boat)along and thetinysecludedbeaches Best Beaches Avignon Arles highlights includearty family-focused activities.Inland golden-sand beachesandbagsof (see p. 122)offerBlue Flag swept coastlineofthe recommend thebeautiful,wind- far from themaddingcrowds, I’d Provence and p. 64)playhost Fréjus Valberg (see p. 168)andbeautiful (see p. 193). (see p. 123), (see p. 146)and (see p. 145),Roman ( www.isola2000.com ( www.valberg.com Sainte-Maxime If you longtobe (see p. 147). to A-list Monaco St-Tropez Camargue Antibes Aix-en- celebri- (see Nice ). ) Family Highlights 5 Parc La Ferme Marineland (see p. 196) near (see p. (see p. 172) in Le (see p. Oceanographic (see p. 72) with its (see p. Aquariums worthAquariums a detour In the Camargue, the the Camargue, In Ornithologique du Pont de Gau Grau-du-Roi, where highlights where Grau-du-Roi, tunnel and bask- include a shark ing sea-lions. coral collection and knobbly seahorses, and the Camargue’s Avignon, where more than 400 more where Avignon, keep company crocodiles rare with giant tortoises and tropical in a huge greenhouse. birds include the basement one at Monaco’s (see p. 69) in Antibes, Europe’s (see p. (see p. 171) – a 60 hectare ‘bird 171) – a 60 hectare (see p. reserve in and nature hotel’ looks Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, after thousands of flamingos, and other migrating birds, egrets speci- in injured as taking as well next door to it’s mens. Handily, best restau- one of the Camargue’s de du Pont rants, the Hostellerie unusual is More Gau. Seaquarium Best Theme Park Museum aux Crocodiles (see and Colmars (see p. 223) (see p. (see p. 195), (see p. Mougins Roussillon Provence is rich in Provence Gordes Jean-Henri Fabre (see p. 96), (see p. (see p. 123), (see p. . Cabris Those who like the conven- Antibes-Juan-les-Pins in Haute Provence. in Haute p. 195). p. (see p. 197) in the Vaucluse. 197) in the (see p. of wrig- also hundreds are There gling caterpillars and beautiful at the butterflies to explore des Papillons Jardin Best Hill-top Villages hill-top villages with Picturesque what viewsjaw-dropping are find You’ll is all about. Provence among ours favourites; own your are 220), (see p. Mons 94) and (see p. Best Animal Parks & Aquariums Gordes Fréjus learn about them is the home of insect man creepy-crawlies: the best place to creepy-crawlies: ience of children’s play areas, ience of children’s and striped recliners restaurants should head to beaches along the are favourites Our Côte d’Azur. golden-sand beaches Flag the Blue in 04_723142 ch01.qxp 1/23/08 11:13 PM Page 5 Page PM 11:13 1/23/08 ch01.qxp 04_723142 04_723142 ch01.qxp1/23/0811:13PMPage6

6 1 Family Highlights Grace p. 173)isProvence’s bestexample. such asthe lately tendedpublicgardens bouring Monaco hasimmacu- fauna atthe all aboutMediterranean floraand Rahmeh (see p. 70),includingthe is famedforitsbeautifulgardens and the Everyone loves castle, afairytale Best HistoricBuildings restaurant. picnic orrefuel atthecourtyard forest trails,andyou cantakea available toguideyou around the English-language bookletsare (see p. 149)nearAix-en-Provence; Palais Carnolès Best Parks/Gardens neighbouring attractions. combined dayticketswith shows. Note thatyou canbuy whale, sea-lionanddolphin well asalargeaquarium,ithas ous choiceforfamilydaysout:as largest marinepark, isanobvi- Madone Oceanographic Museum,Monaco You andthechildren canlearn (see p. 70). Château d’Uzès , the and the Roseraie Princesse Forest Ecomuseum Serre de la , whileneigh- Jardin du Menton (see Val even more the splendidviews, world. the largestGothic palaceinthe for over-the-top grandeur:it’s Palais desPâpes dukedom inFrance, ithasawine Owned andlived inby theoldest little tobeatthe14th-century ures). In nearby Avignon, there’s santons cellar, achapelanddisplayof Palais desPapes,Avignon With itssplendidgardens and (Provençal paintedfig- (see p. 198) Family Highlights 7 Gorges Gorges If (see (see Musée de (see (see (see p. 222), (see p. (see p. 99) near (see p. (see p. 99) in the Vallée 99) in the (see p. (see p. 226), designed by 226), designed (see p. Indian Forest Sud Indian Forest The don’t-miss museum in The don’t-miss The Provence hinterland The Provence p. 102) in Grasse is the place to 102) in Grasse p. and up those aged five go: here, can take 90-minute workshops culminating in the presentation of a diploma and a bottle of their personally designed perfume. de la Tinée. With their waterfalls their With Tinée. de la descents, these and jaw-dropping p. 129) boasts some world-class 129) boasts p. likes of Braque, the offerings from and Matisse. Signac is the Provence Haute the British architect Norman architect the British which offers a themed Foster, Bonne grotto trail to the Baume boat and to an archaeological by can try children village where Age Stone their hand at living style. p. 154) near Martigues or the 154) near Martigues p. Parfumerie Molinard Best for Active Families who want to play at Families will love and Jane Tarzan being the des Cimes Passerelle Gorges du Verdon and the Breuil-sur-Roya, Annonciade Museum Annonciade Best for Arts & Crafts du Daluis p. 204)p. with in Île-sur-la-Sorgue, trails of bridges connecting rope varying height and difficulty. or the Provence of the Haute home to the are Alpes-Maritimes du Saorge you’ve ever dreamed of creating dreamed ever you’ve perfume, then the own your la Préhistoire des Gorges du des Gorges la Préhistoire Verdon which straddle the Haute the border, Provence/Var ; (see p. 201) (see p. belle époque Préau des Villa Ephrussi Villa (see p. 151) is (see p. (see p. 72) in (see p. of No museum in No (see p. 152), a chil- (see p. Fondation Maeght palazzo If you want to see where want to see where you If Art-lovers visiting the Riviera Art-lovers Provence is more child-friendly is more Provence than Marseille’s the perfect place to introduce to 20th-centurychildren art, with its all-encompassing collection spanning 1900 to 1960 and including both locally inspired to and Signac Dufy paintings by celebrated masterpieces by and Picasso Kandinsky, Rothko, airy St-Tropez’s Hopper. private artprivate foundation displaying extraordinary artworks by Its and Bonnard. Chagall, Matisse inspire may well art-filled garden their own to create children your Marseille, masterpieces. Near Musée Cantini Village des Bories Village Best Museums & Art Galleries pink Accoules in Gordes, where you’ll find you’ll where in Gordes, stone beehive-like some 20 tiny, be built all houses that used to as tool sheds Vaucluse the over and shelters. Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is one of is one Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat finest the Riviera’s the love palaces; children hunt treasure English-language – and its themed gardens around manage for those who the prizes the riddle. to solve visit the hobbits might holiday, dren’s museumdren’s everyone where can learn tots to teens from their about artists and create in workshops. masterpieces own de should head to Saint-Paul Vence’s de Rothschild 04_723142 ch01.qxp 1/23/08 11:13 PM Page 7 Page PM 11:13 1/23/08 ch01.qxp 04_723142 04_723142 ch01.qxp1/23/0811:13PMPage8

8 1 Family Highlights Haute Provence isfrom a lavender fieldsandolive groves of dawn, thebestwaytoadmire the mites andstalactites. cave ceilingstoexplore stalag- near Caille,where you scalealong terranean formof Via Ferrata going underground, there’s asub- and inSaint-Martin Vésubie. Or National Park, inBreuil-sur-Roya –intheMercantourby experts would usuallyonlybeattempted scale dramaticrock facesthat ladders thatallows beginnersto of rock-climbing alongiron-rung walks andsnorkelling. environment through guided introduce familiestothelocal style cart with style cart race down thepisteinasoapbox- karting andallthingsrelated you speakFrench), contact explore Marseille’s coastline(if For aneco-friendlywayto invented by theFrench, afterall. Terroir enBuggy balloon Via Ferrata Naturoscope Bedoin with vroom around thevineyards near andquadbikes– gies, go-karts to motorbikes,mountainbug- from push-bikes vide everything where numerous companiespro- (see p. 205)isthe Vaucluse, in rapids. hot dog,kayakingorswimming aquatic hiking,canoeing,tubing, such asrafting,canyoning, gorges are forwatersports perfect Avignon with If you canfacewakingupat Lovers ofheightsshouldtry The bestplacefor (see p. 228)–theywere (see p. 105)–aform Découverte du Holiday Bikes (see p. 155),who Devalkart , hire bikesin biking, . hot-air or white horses.Our favourite is riding, onthebackofitsfamous offers someoftheworld’s best Florian Marine rides forlittleones. long treks, plus30-minutepony withhour-longtoday- p. 178), chocolate. The intoorange-colouredping fruit to watchitsworkers hand-dip- Loup, letsyou through itsdoors in sweet factory Tourrettes-sur- p. 132)inFréjus. Best Confectioners Ranch LaBrouzetière Best Riding Léonard Parli and for confectionery. The Provence isoneofthebestplaces gences ofbeingonholiday, and sweet treats isoneoftheindul- Museum across Provence. chocolate-maker withshops brated traditionalbiscuitand favourites are across theregion; amongour coloured sweets. displays ofkilobagsrainbow- has aninteractive exhibitionand sure tofollow localsto since 1874.In addition,make almond sweet bestpurchased at calisson out onAix-en-Provence’s famous Beaulieu-sur-Mer. series (seep. 78)inNice and on theCôted’Azur, withpâtis- one ofthemasterconfectioners Gourmande Good confectionersabound No gourmandshouldmiss La MaisondelaTarte , anellipse-shaped, (see p. 101),atraditional (see p. 179)inArles (see p. 175)inUzès (see p. 179),acele- The Camargue Les Capricesde (see p. 155),open Haribo Sweet Pascal Lac Scoffing Confiserie La Cure (see (see is Family Highlights 9 No English (see Au Bois de Book in Bar Open Air (see p. 106) in (see p. The Comic Strips (see p. 178) in Uzès. (see p. One of the most One (see p. 62). (see p. (see p. 76) in Antibes, 76) (see p. If you’ve run out of good holi- you’ve If p. 208) in Avignon and 208) in Avignon p. Cinema selling comic books galore. selling comic books Nice’s Old Town and Town Old Nice’s Book Centre Book Centre Valbonne should fill the gap. And should fill the gap. Valbonne children your can introduce you to Astérix at Best Provençal Markets Best Provençal (see p. 156) in Aix-en-Provence, 156) (see p. Librairie Shakespeare Best English-language Cinema memorable ways of spending a on the French summer evening Riviera is watching a Hollywood blockbuster (in English) splashed up against Monaco at the rock Ville’s Café Mon Coeur trip to Provence would be com- would be trip to Provence plete without rummaging for in lemons and smelling lavender their have towns Most a market. be it a market, produce own fruit market and vegetable flower, chick- or a full-on affair with live a They’re ens and fluffy bunnies. used children British to revelation boring to being trailed around provençal The best supermarkets. are for individual regions markets but a listed within each chapter, market. Saturday gem is Apt’s real been thriving since the 16th It’s century and is one of the best places to stock up for a picnic with stalls crammed full of local delicacies such as can- Southern oils, and died cherries, lavender truffles. day reading, English-language day reading, such as bookstores (see for its (see Nature (clay fig- Santons Magie du (see p. 76) in (see p. Fragonard Le Chat Botté You won’t go won’t You santons . Rue d’Antibes (see p. 156) in Aix-en- 156) (see p. (see p. 230) in Sisteron, (see p. (see p. 179) in Uzès, with 179) in Uzès, (see p. Fragonard Maison Fragonard Tartine et Chocolat to Tartine en sortant de l’école You’ll find more pretty find more You’ll Small is beautiful when it Small In the perfume the capital In Parfum Petit Bâteau far in western Provence without Provence far in western coming across see good place to both urines); a buy them them being made and is the long-standing p. 77) in Cannes, p. Provence. Les Indiennes de Les Indiennes Provence. in west- Nîmes is another must this small, family- ern Provence: run in Nîmes chain with outlets Arles and Avignon 179), (see p. specialises in colour- 207) (see p. fabrics and clothes ful Provençal up. two years from for children clothes for tots up to teens along the smart (see p. 207) in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, (see p. et Léa Chez Tom (see p. 106), for its duck soaps (see p. fragrances, and and children’s nearby Best Shopping full of aromatic perfumesfull of aromatic and cosmetics. shops, and our comes to toy treas- all diminutive are favourites of traditional wooden troves ure toys: Grasse, don’t miss don’t Grasse, p. 78) in Cannes, home to all 78) in Cannes, home p. labels, children’s the chic French from bags and cuddly toy embroidered smells of sweet havens Other toys. include the newly opened Fouque its organic range and name- inscribed soaps and et Senteurs – Savonnerie du Duché 04_723142 ch01.qxp 1/23/08 11:13 PM Page 9 Page PM 11:13 1/23/08 ch01.qxp 04_723142 04_723142 ch01.qxp1/23/0811:13PMPage10

10 1 Family Highlights Market, Aix-en-Provence century French/Occitan dictionary Grassoise poetLouisBellaud,andFrédéricMistral,whowrote the19th- kept alivethrough thecenturiesbywritersandpoetssuchas should bethelanguageofallFrance,Occitanwaned.However, itwas ruledthatParisianFrenchAfter the1539EdictofVillers-Cotterêts Raimbaut d’Orange,ComtessedeDieandVaqueiras. Famous troubadours inProvence includedFolquet de Marseille, with songswritteninOccitanthatspokeoftheirpatientdevotion. Masters intheartofcourtlylove,theseknightswooedvirtuouswomen lished through thesuccessof 12th-centurypoets–thetroubadours. Spain). Havingevolvedfrom Vulgar Latin,thelanguagebecameestab- Italyand FranceasfartheDordogne, northern Monaco andsouthern think wedo. d’orange regional dialectbasedonOccitan.Fiveyearsandmanyglassesof year-old neighbourslacedtheirFrench phraseswithProvençal, a ing them.Itwasn’t justourrustyFrench: welaterrealised thatour80- neighbours wondered whywewere havingsuchdifficulty understand- the Provençal countryside,andintroducing ourselvestoourelderly again. More thanadecadelater, myhusbandandIboughtahousein Frenchwas unlikelytoevercomeacross language thisancientsouthern favoured specialistsubject,butIconsoledmyselfwiththethoughtthat When IwasstudyingFrench andSpanish,Occitanwasmyleast- Occitan or Langue d’Oc–TheLanguageofPoetry later, wefinallyunderstandwhattheyare talkingabout,orwe Oc was spokenallover Lou Tresor dóuFelibrige Occitania (an area covering . vin Best Accommodation 11 Lou (a cab- (a garlic, Hôtel (see p. 134)(see p. in Le Manoir de Lou Pistou Lou Fassum (see p. 107), set in beau- (see p. If you’re looking for a peace- you’re If The success of the (savoury), children’s cinema and a DVD children’s library. ful place to stay in the Riviera back-country, Sainte-Maxime in the Var lies Var in the Sainte-Maxime in its attention to detail, from the skin-gentle bath products menus to the and children’s L’Etang Le Beauvallon tiful landscaped grounds, has tiful landscaped grounds, rooms stylish interconnecting and suites. (‘little one’) or Lou Pebre d’AÏ Lou Pitchoun (see p. 79) in (see p. festival in Rodez, celebrating Occitan language and culture. festival in Rodez, celebrating – an ironic reference to the 1935 film by Marcel Pagnol about a Pagnol about film by Marcel to the 1935 reference – an ironic (the) before the restaurant name. See if you can spot any of the fol- name. See if you the restaurant (the) before Since 2005, interest has been revived in this long-forgotten language in this long-forgotten has been revived interest Since 2005, You’re most likely to see Provençal on restaurant signs: look out for on restaurant most likely to see Provençal You’re Some Occitan words are very similar to their English counterparts or very similar to their are Some Occitan words through demonstrations against the illegal status of Occitan within status of Occitan against the illegal demonstrations through and Béziers, as well as the annual Montpellier France in Carcassonne, Estivada Lou lowing on your travels: basil and tomato-based sauce). You may even come across may even come across sauce). You basil and tomato-based Cigalon his cus- to serve owner who is an excellent chef but refuses restaurant nearby. employee opens another restaurant tomers until his former to Anglophones: easily recognisable AnimalApologyCastleColourIntelligentGiftQuestionRareVillage Animal Excusa Waterfall Castèl Color Intelligent Question Present Rare Vilatge Cascade bage-based recipe), bage-based recipe), Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. As well as As well Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. menus, interconnect- children’s a well-cordoned-off ing rooms, swimming pool and a private guests beach, it offers younger complimentary gifts, table tennis, water-skiing, an after-dinner Royal Riviera BEST ACCOMMODATION Best Luxury Accommodation The most family-friendly luxury hotel along the Riviera is the 04_723142 ch01.qxp 1/23/08 11:13 PM Page 11 Page PM 11:13 1/23/08 ch01.qxp 04_723142 04_723142 ch01.qxp1/23/0811:13PMPage12

12 1 Family Highlights au Naturel MoulinduChâteau Raphaël, the and flower-strewn terrace. bles around aswimmingpool sta- 18th-century whitewashed setin rooms andapartments know withits17air-conditioned p. 111)attractsfamilies-in-the- get muchbetterthanthe head backtonature, itdoesn’t and aclubhouse. swimming pool,atenniscourt Amenities includeaJacuzzi, a volcanic rangeofL’Esterel. the turquoise seaandthered esque locationwedged between exceptional value inapictur- Chênes Verts well-regarded restaurant. there’s aswimmingpool,and hotel: aswell as itsridingstables, ing theluxuriesofafour-star Camargue experienceyet desir- for familiesseekinganauthentic Cavalière (see p. 232)inHaute Provence, Secrets Best-kept Accommodation nity togoonspeedboattrips. private beachandtheopportu- There’s alsoaswimmingpool, sheets andthe Wendy House. children’scartoon-character Paul de Vence, bedrooms. catering studioswithuptothree with tastefullydecoratedself- the beachfront LaCroisette, hotelminutesfrom apartment the out breaking thebank,bookat Five minutesfrom St- Lastly, forfamilieswanting to The gorgeous In theback-country’s Saint- Villa d’Estelle To enjoy Canneswith- (see p. 182)isideal Résidence Les (see p. 134)offers Le Hameau Auberge (see p. 82),an Hotel (see group alsoowns Nice) andtheno-frills Provence, Marseille and and WiFi inbiggercities(in enettes, air-conditioning withkitch- ing apartments self-cater- offering comfortable Chains Best Family-friendlyHotel in Opio). (with itspopularholidayvillage Etap Campanile a hotelinMonac the latter(whichhasjustopened include Mercure andNovotel; range, family-friendlybrands alternatives include Accor’s cheaper butexcellent free andgetafree breakfast. where twochildren under16stay dren’s giftsandfamilyrooms ( sive basic (Sofitel) tothevery well-heeled families)viaexpen- Cannes’s LaCroisette forvery group, withtwohotelsalong (theLucien Barrièreluxury covers pricecategory, every from France’s largesthotelgroup, chains are most family-friendlyhotel stay.a short Amongthebest, reliability andconvenience for hotels, theydoofferfamilies run lack thecharmofsmall,family- Regional Natural Park. only hotelwithinthe Verdon rounded by olive groves –it’s the a formerolive oilmillsur- hotels across Provence. special offersforfamiliesinits interconnecting rooms and Formule 1 co ( Accor (see p. 45),andthe Though chainhotels www.accor.com Citadines ; seep. 45).Its mid- (see p. 45),with Club Med o) offers chil- Ibis (see p. 45), and ), Best Accommodation 13 Camping (see p. 182) (see p. Camping With its With Camping Le The best all- (see p. 232), (see p. Parc des Monges Parc (see p. 232), with (see p. (see p. 210) is perfectly (see p. Camping Les Collines de In the heart of the Camargue, In Haute Provence has some Provence Haute On a five-hectare site near a five-hectare On children’s entertainment from children’s hunts. face-painting to treasure where you can have fun with can have you where Europe, over all families from and Castellane Luberon Best Eco-friendly Accommodation Best Campsite Le Sourire Saint-James Parc Villeneuve-Loubet, in 81) (see p. with its summertime entertain- club ment, including a children’s to Those looking and activities. should the crowds get away from head inland to sur in Auribeau 109) (see p. Siagne. Camping Crin Blanc singing-all-dancing campsite on campsite singing-all-dancing Riviera is the French located for exploring the Park; Natural Regional Luberon self-catering choose between stone houses and wooden chalets. campsites, most excellent notably the convivial treehouses scattered around a around scattered treehouses and its outdoor garden forested and stones through pool filtered L’International L’International offers mobile homes and chalets, offers mobile homes plus plenty to keep youngsters amused, including tennis courts, a a games room, volleyball, pool, table tennis, a children’s and a summertimeplayground mini-club. the friendly Apt, ) ) www. La , you’ll www.the and www.holiday Clos des (see p. 209) in 209) (see p. that offers swanky Au Temps des Au Temps , the official website Mas de la Pierre Mas de la Pierre Our favourite B&Bs favourite Our www.bowhills.co.uk court, it offers luxurious (see p. 180), a beautiful (see p. (see p. 210) and 210) (see p. (see p. 108) on the out- 108) (see p. www.gîtesdefrance.com, A modern yet characterfulA modern yet www.joiedevivreholidays.com chateaux and farmhouses with a factor. wow Sommellerie Cerises villabook.com france.org.uk whose cottages and villas we’ve Well-heeled in. often stayed families will also love of the Association of British Tour of the Association of British family Our to France. Operators Vivre de Joie are favourites ( Cypres also find specialist gîte and villa companies listed on Best Self-catering Holidays families opt for the flexi- Many bility of self-catering holidays. good websites as several As well can book gîtes directly you where such as Best B&B skirts of Grasse. is alternative frenchconnections.co.uk in the region are old farmhouses are in the region style and Provençal loaded with gardens, flower-laden set within such as the www.interhome.co.uk the Vaucluse, and the Vaucluse, du Coq near the river B&B overlooking as a pool and a As well Uzès. pétanque gowns, touches such as dressing products bath locally sourced and home-made granola. one of the few companies that specialises in farmhouses and and France villas in Southern ( Bowhills 04_723142 ch01.qxp 1/23/08 11:13 PM Page 13 Page PM 11:13 1/23/08 ch01.qxp 04_723142 04_723142 ch01.qxp1/23/0811:13PMPage14

14 1 Family Highlights rable placeisthe menu for can designtheirown three-course children agedbetween sixand10 harbourside € with itsFranco-Asian fusionsand family for150years; children by thesamefishing has beenrun Best FishRestaurant Best FineDining OPTIONS BEST DINING Breakfast aquatic plants, Orion Bed&Breakfast, Saint-PauldeVence Laurent Terraillers Michelin-starred restaurant are fairlyadventurous. At the ifyour youngsters trying worth in hand,there are places afew cuisine don’t naturallygohand family diningandgastronomic Beach Club alike. paradise foradultsandchildren Paul de Vence isaneco-friendly 15 children’s menu. (see p. 160)inCassis € (see p. 113)inBiot, (see p. 111)inSaint- 20. Anothermemo- La Poissonnerie in Sainte-Maxime, Orion Bed& Beauvallon Though The Les even acarvalet service. into your swimmingtogsand beach hutsinwhichtochange trees. There are comfyrecliners, beneathacanopyofpine served of grilledmeat,fishandsalads d’Antibes, offersastylishmenu Pins, overlooking theCap Pêcheurs and p. 233)nearthe Verdon Gorges p. 114)inGourdon are a worth Auberge duPointSublime Best Alfresco Dining Best BeachRestaurant Best Vegetarian Food add inacoupleofextrachoices. which Marco alwaysseemsto and fourintheevening, to of three coursesatlunchtime eat free, andthere are setmenus pumpkins. Children under12 Halloween themeofwall-to-wall Marco witha owner (andchef) been decoratedby itsItalian Magica menu featuringfresh fishand are well catered forwitha vegetables. La Taverne Provençale (see p. 84)inNice has (see p. 86)inJuan-les- The Zucca € Les (see (see 9 Best Dining Options 15 ) (see The (savoury Barbarac 04 42 23 b Crêperie Glacier 04 91 33 55 00 Pain (see p. 88) (see p. b Soleileis galettes (see p. 213) in (see p. Crêperie de Salon Crêperie de (see p. 185) in Arles 185) (see p. www.painquotidien. ( Brasserie Beau (see p. 116) has daily 116) (see p. (see p. 162) in Marseille, (see p. Fennochio ) in Aix-en-Provence; 18 ) in Aix-en-Provence; ), a Belgian bakery), a Belgian and café fillings, and fillings, and Gelatoshow des Arts in Marseille’s Vieux Port, and 1 Port, Vieux in Marseille’s Paule de rue Saint-François chain that sells olive oils, bread chain that sells olive and delicious pâtisseries to take away and open sandwiches and salads to eat in, is a good place or to grab a to pick up breakfast 7am snack, offering food from outlets are to 5pm. City-centre at 5 place Richelme ( has a flower-filled garden. has a flower-filled Orange sells granitas in more Orange in the are colours than there rainbow. p. 186), servingp. delicious sundaes as fig such and unusual flavours and plum, competition for Provence’s best competition for Provence’s top but our shop is stiff, ice-cream Arles’ choices are (see p. 139) in St-Tropez, with its with 139) in St-Tropez, (see p. Old- white chocolate ice cream. timer offers a mind-boggling in Nice and number of ice cream and sorbet flavours, Best Breakfasts Quotidien (see p. 162) in Salon-de-Provence, (see p. with its excellent In and ice creams. pancakes) Tourrettes-sur-Loup, Les 2 Suds Stops Best Ice-cream 48 57 with yummy (if not very French) and ice-cream, Snickers place aux Huiles ( place aux Huiles specials and cider cocktails; while specials and cider cocktails; com Rivage La Le Don’t 504 Marseille (see p. 186) in 186) (see p. (see p. 138) in (see p. (see p. 212) in 212) (see p. Transport your- Transport On the Cours On (see p. 183) in (see p. La Bastide du (see p. 184), a popu- (see p. La Crêperie du Vieux Restaurant à Deux Le Café (see p. 113), with its (see p. , with its beautifully pre- (see p. 137) in St Raphaël, 137) in St (see p. Good places to introduce Good Avignon. with more than 20 pancake with more lar hangout for bullfighting glit- to the to listen terati, who love tapas. singers over Flamenco to Moroccan children your Valbonne’s cuisine include go to Iberian-influenced Nîmes go to Iberian-influenced at without tasting, preferably sented food, relaxed atmosphere sented food, relaxed menus. and children’s Best Crêperie (see p. 160) in Marseilles’s Place 160) in Marseilles’s (see p. can children where aux Huiles, run the adjoining square around after their meal. Best People-watching Restaurant Cours Best Ethnic Restaurant trip for their viewstrip for their alone, while Le Bananier La Chassagnette Bodeguita Pigeot Arles and Pas du Potager St-Tropez are set on traffic-free are St-Tropez can run children where squares has fin- after the market around dining on idyllic terrace ished. For our tips are produce, garden-fresh hand-painted furniture and half- hand-painted furniture height chairs, and self to Brittany minus the rain self to Brittany with a visit to a crêperie: worth a detour are Port Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence’s Mirabeau, St to the Boulevard answer our family in Paris, Germain is favourite Uzès and Uzès 04_723142 ch01.qxp 1/23/08 11:13 PM Page 15 Page PM 11:13 1/23/08 ch01.qxp 04_723142 04_723142 ch01.qxp1/23/0811:13PMPage16

16 1 Family Highlights Mirabeau ( Branches are at33cours and a‘goody bag’ present. chicken withspaghetti,dessert menu bambino good-value menus, includinga premises, andthere’s achoiceof ing thepasta,ismadeon Courbet ( Nice, and8boulevard Amiral cours Saleya ( Marseille’s Vieux Port; 13bis under-12s entertained with under-12s entertained excellent steaks, Nîmes. family-sized tables. communal tablesandsmaller Saleya. It hasbothlargewooden ( The great foodat Most Child-friendlyChains ( Neuve ( Aix-en-Provence; 15quaiRive Papa Mon Fromager, Fréjus www.hippopotamus.fr b 04 93629432 A nationalchainspecializingin ( www.pizzapapa.fr b b 04 91598224 b 04 66760121 04 42267202 b with pizzaor 04 93856191 Hippopotamus ) inNice’s Cours La Piazza ) keeps ) in ), includ- ) in ) in ) in wine. the 150cheesesover aglassof of of itsfourtablestotasteafew may betemptedtolingeratone for afamilypicnic,althoughyou avenue FélixFaure ( Valentine; plusbranchesat16 Fromager and rope web. In Orange, the playareasman-made waterfall, ( boulevard duPrésident Allendé Best PlaceforCheese tain range. Dentelles de Montmirail moun- Roman theatre towards the formilesfrom theancient views is ashadypicnicspotwith Colline StEutrope du Château arenot-to-be-missed views Pretty castle gardens with Most ScenicPicnicSpots is quai desBelges ( Hippopotami inMarseille, at33 menu for their three-course children’s balloons before theytuckinto crayons, drawing booksand 77 Bancal ( Léon de Campagne;andat2rue Rigon ( in the Vieux Port; incheminde the ÎlesduFrioul, andthe towards theChâteaud’If and Marseille’s Vieux Port, looking du Pharo b the ) inNice; and Ville Active – 04 668060 place tostockuponcheese b b 04 42466780 € (see p. 162)near 04 91879690 (see p. 137)inFréjus 8. There are three in Nice withits ) inNîmes. b 04 915940 (see p. 214) b 04 939242 ) inPlan ) inLa Mon Parc Parc )