This Lecture
Tonight we will cover: Wine 3 Class details & Syllabus Introduction to Enology How get the most out of this class How to approach winemaking as a academic subject History of winemaking
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Introduction to Enology Introduction to Enology
Lecture: Lab: Shone Farm - Dutton Ag Pavilion Tuesday Night, 6:00 PM to 9:00 PM Chris Wills Instructor Pat Henderson Instructor Lab-Two sections: Section # 5994 Wednesday 3:00 to 6:00 PM Section # 6689 Wednesday 6:00 to 9:00 PM
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It takes about 15 to Registration 20 minutes to get from SRJC to the The class has many people on the waiting list Shone farm, but who will not get in. Winery there is Plenty of If after tonight's lecture you decide that you Free Parking! do not have the time to devote to class or that you think that you will eventually drop go ahead and do it now to let someone in.
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1 Class Poll Handouts and Power Points Handouts will be given out in class and Winemaking students downloadable Power Point slides will be Industry professionals available at the class website. Winemaking Take notes based on Slide # Other Lecture slides have a lot of detailed Home winemakers information and most test questions come Grape growers directly from the slides. Keep handouts and Power Points organized.
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Class Website Getting the most from this class
http://www.santarosa.edu/~jhenderson Read supplemental material The lecture presentations will be available at ASK QUESTIONS! the class website the night before class. Etiquette The website will have class announcements as Arrive on time, allow time to find parking, well as links to articles, supplementary if you come late do not disrupt class. materials, and useful wine websites Turn cell phones off Don’t talk during tastings Academic integrity
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Textbook Philosophy of Winemaking
Don’t feel that purchasing any of the books The classic argument is it art or science? Many listed in the syllabus is mandatory, but having wine connoisseurs think of it as an art, wine a little background info before you get to researchers tend to thin k of it as a science. class is useful. To me the answer is obvious, it’s both, it’s a If you keep the lecture presentations and your craft notes well organized it can take the place of a What is the goal of winemaking? Like preparing textbook. fine food, it is to give people pleasure by making something that tastes good.
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2 Philosophy of Winemaking So What is a “good” wine?
The art is in finding out what tastes "good" Opinions vary, what is good depends on by doing tasting trials, blends etc. your personal taste. And the science comes from determining the Different opinions on what an ideal wine is methods required to produce what tastes lead to different methods on how to obtain it "good", what techniques do you use to get Variation from vintage to vintage also the desired results. influence a wine’s qualities. This is why wine is such a challenging and interesting field of study.
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Keep in mind So, how can you learn about wine if there is no “right” way to make it? All thought there is no right way to make Keep an open mind wine, some methods are more successful (at least commercially) than others. Learn from as many people as possible If you are making wines for sale, keep your (one advantage to having two instructors) customers in mind. Develop your own style The key is to know what you are doing and why the methods you have chosen will make the style of wine you desire.
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Purpose of this class
To learn how practices used in the vineyard and the wine cellar determine a wines flavor. History of California With this knowledge you can wine in any style Winemaking you wish. In other words, to learn what you need to Wine 3 know to be a winemaker. Introduction to Enology
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3 This Lecture Covers We will deal primarily with California Origins of winemaking in the Old World history; here are some points to consider: History of winemaking in California California was a melting pot of many Mission period cultures: Spanish, Mexican, German, Development of an industry French, Hungarian, Italian, and Chinese. Prohibition & aftermath This continues to this day, French, Australian, Chilean, and Spanish The rebirth of fine wine in California companies have all invested in California. Business cycles in the wine industry
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Points to consider Why Study Wine History?
50% of U.S. wineries are located in CA. and Our history says a lot about where we are 90 % of the nations wine is produced in CA. as an industry now, and where we are Wine is an agricultural product, so economic likely to be heading in the future. cycles exhibit a boom and bust pattern. Quality and value are the key to success; Wine is a food, alcohol is a drug. Influences wineries that deliver both survive for the from prohibitionist and neo-prohibitionists long haul. affect the market for wine. This is important at every price point. Influence of religion on wine consumption
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New Wine History Book Basic Winemaking
Inventing Wine: The Basic winemaking is not very complicated. History Of A Very Grape juice will spontaneously ferment after Vintage Beverage the grapes are crushed, so a rudimentary wine By Paul Lukacs (although not a good one) is easy to make. Link to podcast with author on class website
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4 Birth of winemaking
First known historical winemaking took place Persia (modern Iran) about 5,400 BC This is just south of the Trans-Caucasus region where vinifera grapevines (wine grapes) are native to. Grapes were probably first cultivated to be consumed as fruit.
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Winemaking in Egypt Winemaking in Ancient Greece
Around 3000 BC By 2000 BC Wine was an Winemaking important part of daily life in spreads to Egypt ancient Greece. and the eastern By 1000 BC the Greeks and Mediterranean Phoenicians had spread wine region, production and vineyards throughout becomes more the Mediterranean. advanced. Greek Amphora
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The Roman era The Roman era Perhaps no culture has ever been as dedicated They were responsible for many innovations: to wine as ancient Rome. Spread winemaking throughout their extensive They were keen observers of nature and their empire in Europe understanding of grape growing and Even without knowledge of chemistry or winemaking was unparalleled in their time. biology, through trial and error winemakers were able develop techniques that worked for their particular situations.
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5 The Roman era The Middle Ages They were responsible for many innovations: In the 1000 years between Spread winemaking throughout their extensive the fall of Rome in 476 empire in Europe and the beginning of the Used barrels for wine renaissance winemaking Grew vines on trellises was consumed near where Used sulfur dioxide it was made. Wrote extensively The Catholic Church was about wine the most important Common people could institution involved in drink wine winemaking.
Bacchus, god of wine 31 32
The Renaissance Early American Winemaking
At the end of the middle ages the renaissance North America was originally called Vinland ushered in scientific methods of thinking. Wine was made from Native American Trade in wine increased and winemaking grapes in Florida as early as the 1500s expanded to the New World. Winemaking began in Virginia, the Carolinas, Winemaking began in the Americas in the and New Mexico in the 1600s. 1500s European (vinifera) vines did not survive in the eastern U.S.
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Winemaking expands Mission Period 1769 to 1833
Winemaking expanded westward with the In California grape settling of the continent. growing and winemaking It was usually made from native grapes and was introduced by father fruit and consumed locally. Junipero Serra; he established the first The first commercial winery was in Kentucky in 1799. mission in San Diego in 1769.
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6 Mission Period 1769 to 1833 Mission Period 1769 to 1833
Wine was essential to the fathers as both a The California Missions beverage and for sacramental purposes. had three parts (The Mission Trinity): At first Father Serra relied on a supply from Mexico for his wine which was sometimes The Presidio (Army unreliable and when he had to purchase wine barracks) from the Presidio he complained the Army The Pueblo (Town) charged him the full price. The Mission (Church)
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Mission Period 1769 to 1833 Mission Period 1769 to 1833 The winemaking practices Spain considered the missions an of the missions were very investment and it wanted returns, for this rudimentary. One account and the reasons above the fathers were describes putting grapes on very interested in making their own wines. an animal skin laid on an Vines were sent to San Juan Capistrano earthen bank and Indians and the first vintage was in 1782. treading the grapes into a vessel made of skins for Steer hide fermentation. fermentation vat
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Mission Grape Mission Grape
They also used the mission Suited to hot climates, grape for everything, red, heavy yielding, versatile white, sweet, and dry. and bland, widely planted The mission grape is a until the 1890s. European variety (Vitis Originally propagated vinifera) it is also called Pais, from seeds rather than by Creole, or Criolla Chica in cuttings. It is a minor Latin America Spanish variety called Listán Prieto
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7 Mission Period 1769 to 1833 Mission Period
California had many native The 21st and last mission grapes growing along the rivers was San Francisco de and creeks but these were not Solano in Sonoma in 1823. suited to wine making. Grapes were grown at all The mission vineyards continued missions except Mission to grow and were well Dolores in San Francisco established by 1800. and Santa Cruz which were considered too cold.
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1833 Secularization Shift to Commercial Viticulture Mariano Commander of the Sonoma Guadalupe The Mexican government deprived the Franciscans of their "Temporalities” (material Pueblo, came after Vallejo property) and turned land over to military and secularization, stayed though civilians. Grapes had been grown in Pueblos and the bear flag revolt of 1846 Ranchos. Replanted the Sonoma Mission was Sonoma's first commercial grower, His Sonoma estate, Lachyma de Montis, Mission won gold medals at state fair in 1858.
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Mariano Guadalupe Los Angeles was the center of commercial Very enthusiastic he inspired Vallejo production in the 1830s and led the state until others and encouraged many the 1870s (it was nicknamed the city of to settle in the North Coast. vineyards). These three men helped to start Such as George Yount & the industry in CA. Charles Krug in the Napa First commercial vineyard was planted by Valley. Joseph Chapman had 4000 vines.
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8 Early Pioneers Developing an Industry Jean Louis Vignes (Vig-nays – French for vines) Called Don Luis, from Bordeaux experimented California had a perfect environment for with European varieties, aged wine in barrels, making fine wines. What it lacked is a market made brandy, also the first to grow oranges. for the product. William Wolfskill Started out as a frontiersman, Gold Rush 1849 came to California on a trapping expedition with George Yount (namesake of Yountville). Planted This ushered in a new era and a new his first vineyard in LA in 1836. His brother John market for wine as well as fresh fruit and would plant in Napa and Yolo County. raisins. Also brought more experienced winemakers from Europe
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Charles Kohler & John Frohling - 1853 Charles Kohler & John Frohling
The transcontinental Built a large winery on Sonoma Mountain (now railroad in 1869 opened part of Jack London State Park) and had 350 acres planted to grapes. Opened an agency in eastern markets to New York and distributed wine nation wide. California wine. First really big CA. wine merchants and founders of Ruins of Kohler & Frohling an agricultural colony in Winery at Jack Anaheim and opened first London State "Native" wine store in SF. Park
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Agoston Haraszthy Agoston Haraszthy
Major force in promoting Versatile and energetic man from Hungary; winemaking in Northern First settled in Wisconsin, traveled to San California. Some history Diego by wagon train in 1849 and a lot of Legend. A In San Diego he founded a town (Middle tireless promoter of Town) as head of the volunteer militia he led California Wine. in the capture of three outlaws, Took them Much of Agoston’s into custody as Sheriff, lodged them in the jail reputation came from the he had built, presided over there trial as judge. tireless promotion of him by his sons. 53 54
9 Agoston Haraszthy Agoston Haraszthy
Retired from civic duties and was elected to Started to grow grapes in Santa Clara, the first state legislator where he passed a law became Assayer at US mint in San Francisco. which enabled him to collect money for the High losses of gold led to accusations of jail he had built, (he was not paid because the embezzlement, charges of which he was later building collapsed) quit after one term and cleared. never returned to San Diego. In 1857 bought vineyards in Sonoma and started Buena Vista Winery.
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Agoston Haraszthy Agoston Haraszthy
He was a strong believer that better wines Published Grape Culture, Wines & could be made from better grapes grown in Winemaking in 1861. He had two sons, better locations with better cellar practices. Arpad & Attila, who married two of Gen. Vallejo’s daughters and were also active in the Took a trip to Europe in 1861 to collect industry. information and cuttings resulted in a winemaking pamphlet that got him the reputation as the father of California Viticulture.
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Agoston Haraszthy 1860s & 1870s Viticulture becomes a well-established Buena Vista grew to one million commercial industry. cases/year by 1873 Industry organizes a lobby to lower taxes and before folding. increase duties for imported wines. Haraszthy left for Nicaragua in 1866 where he was said to The Vintage in California from be eaten by Harper’s Magazine Crocodiles while 1878 attempting to cross a Buena Vista in the 1860s river.
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10 1860s & 1870s 1880s Phylloxera Prosperity of 1860s and early 1870s led to Industry rebounded over planting and economic depression led to hoping to take the place of huge bust in 1876 when two out of three the Phylloxera devastated wineries failed. Overall, the shakedown vineyards of Europe. helped wine quality by getting rid of poorer Phylloxera was first varieties and practices. identified in CA. in 1873, In Sonoma County, it cost more to pick and was ignored until it grapes that they were worth after they were was a serious problem. harvested.
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1886 another bust from over planting, the shift 1880s Phylloxera from mission to traditional European varieties increases and continues for the next 20 years. George Husmann & Eugene Hilgard (Dean of Ag at UC Berkeley) Credited with stopping Phylloxera by grafting European varieties on resistant rootstocks.
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1890s Dominated by the California Wine Association (CWA). Formed as a coop to stabilize grape prices acquiring wineries to become the states largest producer, thrived until prohibition. CWA motto: “Never bottled a bad bottle of wine” (or a great one) In 1895 Sonoma Co. had 23,000 acres in production. Napa Valley harvest in the 1880s
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11 Twentieth Century Prohibition, a giant step backwards Background: Gained momentum over the previous 100 years. First "dry law" passed in Indiana in 1816, whole states started going dry in 1880s. Survived '06 earthquake but lost 4 million cases! Some wine was used to help put out fires after the quake!
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Prohibition Strange Bedfellows Prohibition was backed by an odd coalition of Wine Industry tried unsuccessfully to keep wine groups separate from distilled spirits. Progressives/socialists Wartime prohibition preventing the production of alcohol from foodstuffs became law in July Fundamentalist protestants 1919. Women's suffrage movement Many supporters were “one issue” voters. Anti immigration “nativists” One of only two constitutional amendments Klu Klux Klan that limit citizens rights. Anti German sentiment (brewers & World War I) Tax reformers (income tax replacing alcohol tax) 69 70
Prohibition Prohibition Volstead Act implementing the 18th Number of wineries in CA went from 700 to amendment banning the manufacturing, 100 (in Sonoma Co from >200 to <50); these selling or transporting alcoholic beverages survived by producing sacramental wines and went into affect Jan. 16 1920. medicated wine tonics (& bootlegging) From the start there was widespread antipathy to the law and it got little support from the federal government.
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12 Prohibition Continued Prohibition Pharmacist’ prescription for whisky and tax stamp for sacramental wine.
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Prohibition Continued Prohibition Continued
Loophole in the act allowed people to make up to 200 gallons of "non intoxicating fruit This led in the replacement of fine wine beverage or cider” per year in the home. varieties to shipping varieties (highly colored Consequently lots of people made bathtub thick skinned) like Alicante Bouchet. wine and individual consumption of wine People got used to mediocre (or worse) went from 0.5 G/yr. to 0.8G/yr. Demand homemade wine. for "juice grapes" rose and the price went By 1930 Sonoma Co had 30,000 acres in from $10/ton in 1918 to $100/ton in 1920. grapes.
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Homemade Wine & Prohibition Shipping grapes across country was hard to do so growers made concentrate which was easier to transport. Vine Glow was one product; it came in 8 different flavors, Muscatel, Claret, etc. You fermented it in your home and the service man would come to
Gallons are expressed in equivalent gallons of Alcohol not volume of liquid bottle it in 60 days.
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13 Homemade Wine & Prohibition Repeal
Wine Bricks were solidified pumice and By the 1930s it was obvious that prohibition concentrate came with the label “Warning do did not control consumption, led to the birth not soak this brick in 5 gallons of water for of organized crime and loss of tax revenues. two weeks because it would become wine The effort for repeal quickly gained which would be illegal.” momentum and final came on Dec. 5, 1933 Government clamped but as part of repeal every state got to write down on both these its own laws (still a headache today). products in 1931
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Post Prohibition Consequences of Prohibition Problems faced the industry: The role of alcohol in society changed during Dry laws prohibition, some of the consequences were: High state taxes & license fees, State Alcohol consumption was more regulated monopoly stores. Call drinks became popular The public tastes had changed Taverns became “co-ed” Wineries were in disrepair, and there were few Plea bargaining in the courts trained winemakers. NASCAR was born Little investment capital due to the depression. Birth of large-scale organized crime (Mafia)
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Post Prohibition 1940s The turn around began very gradually and Post prohibition shake out was over by the start was aided when the Wine Institute was of World War II formed in 1934 as a trade organization to fight for winery’s interests. During the war European imports ceased and demand and prices for California wine went up. Enology Department at UC Davis published Many American G.I.s in Europe before and reports on how to improve quality; improved after the war were introduced to quality table quality improved sales. wines for the first time.
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14 1950s & 1960s ~ A dying industry? Wine Revolution Dominated by Louis Petri and Before 1970 few people took California wine the Gallos. Jug and flavored seriously because most of it was mediocre. wines (Thunderbird) become The number one wine in America in 1965 very popular consumption was? Cream Sherry gradually increases. In 1966 231 wineries in CA. Most California wine was consumed by 18 in Sonoma, 15 in Napa, “European immigrants and winos” Sonoma Co has 12,000 There were some pioneers though that Acres in Vines, less than half wanted to make wine like the ones they had of what it had at the end of had from Europe. prohibition. 85 86
The New Pioneers The New Pioneers
James Zellarbach founded Hanzell winery in Jack & Jamie Davies ~ Shramsberg 1957. One of the first wineries in California to use: Robert Mondavi ~ Robert Mondavi Winery Controlled malolactic fermentation Warren Winiarski ~ Stag’s Leap French oak barrels Jim Barrett ~ Chateau Montelena Stainless steel tanks Lee family ~ Kenwood Vineyards Temperature controlled tanks And many more, what the had in common is a Nitrogen gas to prevent oxidation passion to craft the best wine possible.
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Wine Revolution Paris Tasting Two watershed years: The Paris tasting elevated the place of 1968 sales of dry wine outsell sweet wine for the first time since prohibition. California wines in the eyes of the world and sent shock waves through the industry. 1976 whites outsell reds for the first time. In 1976 Sonoma Co had 24,000 Acres of Grapes (2 times amount 10 years before) Also In 1976 a Steven Spurrier, a Paris wine merchant, held the Paris Tasting, In a blind tasting in Paris Napa and Sonoma wineries beat France’s best.
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15 Paris Tasting 1980s Optimism led to over planting that led to Recounted in the book Judgment of Paris bulk wine "lake" that dried up with the by George Taber. (fictionalized in the movie advent of coolers & fighting varietals in the Bottle Shock). early 80s. By the mid 80s the total volume of wine consumed was steady but premium end was still growing. Boutique super premium wineries flourish as jug wine sales decline. Minor shakeout as inefficient producers are weeded out.
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1980s Early 1990s Phylloxera becomes a problem again by Overall sales of wine were still sluggish but showing up in a new form, Biotype-B. This premium wine continued to increase; people Biotype can grow on AxR-1, the most widely drinking less but drinking better. planted rootstock in CA. This causes many vineyards to be replanted at great expense. Costs from replanting due to Phylloxera and taxes rose but the prices didn’t so borderline Because of better clones and vineyard wineries went bankrupt or sold. selection, the new vineyards were greatly improved over the old ones. Neo prohibitions also worked to decrease consumption by linking wine with dangerous In 1989 there are 771 wineries in CA. drugs instead of food.
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Late 1990s The New Millennium By the mid 90s vineyards begin to become In 1999 there are 1200 wineries in CA, back into production from replanting and are producing more and better grapes. In 2002 Sonoma Co has 60,000 Acres of grapes. Increased vineyard acreage has come Sales were boosted from information that at the expense of other forms of agriculture. wine in moderation is good for your health, and the strong economy (wine still considered Foreign competition, particularly from new a luxury product) continued to fuel the wine oversees wine regions, keep prices industry and sales were strong through the competitive. late 1990s.
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16 2001 to 2008 2001 to 2008 The boom of the 1990s with high grape prices has led to over planting and a surplus of Sales increased in mid decade before falling. grapes in 2001. Unpopular varieties and poor Weak dollar make imported wine more vineyards are being squeezed. expensive and exports from California cheaper. As the economy slowed there were repercussions for the premium market and Few new vineyards were planed vineyards of unpopular varieties were pulled out.
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The Great Recession Has the Tide Turned?
Economic recession hit wineries hard. The light harvests of 2010 & 2011 dried up Sales of expensive wines plummeted while bulk market and increased grape prices. This inexpensive wines sold well. was compounded by the lack of new vineyards coming into production. Consumers looked for value instead of prestige. Big harvests of 2012 & 2013 moderated this trend. Profit margins still have not recoved.
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Has the Tide Turned? California Acreage Trends
Bulk wine tells the tale: Moderate Planting Defined: Moderate Planting +/-15,000 NET new acres per year Matches the Trend
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17 California Production California Bearing acres
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California Total Tons California $/Ton
Total tons per vintage is more volatile than bearing $/Ton Statewide is much lower than Sonoma County prices acres due to weather conditions between vintages
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Turrentine The Future Wine Wheel of Globalization and industry consolidation also Fortune provide uncertainty. Consolidation of small and mid-sized wineries is likely to continue. Concerns: Urban growth pressure on agricultural land Introduced pests Climate change
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18 The Future The Future 2013 vintage had good yields and good quality; Grape Price Report will be released in The future remains bright for well run a few weeks. companies making a good product without too much debt. We are in a new “Golden Age of Wine” Primarily for the consumer. Stay competitive in price & quality; let’s nopt be Detroit! The key to success in this market is to offer a good quality product at good value.
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Next Week
Lab meeting tomorrow. Download lecture slides at the class website. Lecture next week: Viticulture
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