SKINCARE, & FRAGRANCES

TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE 2017 SUPPLEMENT

The Beauty of Self-Defense. bring your skin to life Beauty exists within strength — reinforce the power of your skin’s immunity. A visionary approach to skin science, Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate and Ultimune Eye Power Infusing Eye Concentrate reawaken the skin’s natural ability to defend itself culminating in a refined, more youthful complexion.

Sponsored by: 01_Pubb CBN_228x331_Cannes_Layout 1 03/08/17 10.28 Pagina 1

S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. - 20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) Italy - Via della Liberazione n. 56 - Tel. +39 02.98.280.925 (6 linee r. a.) - www.sirpea.com - [email protected] TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017 SKINCARE, COSMETICS & FRAGRANCES SUPPLEMENT

With the skincare and cosmetics segment becoming increasingly sophisticated, brands are breaking down barriers to target travellers GLOWING before they shop and inspire them with all that’s new at the point of sale.

One such example is ‘The Beauty of Thailand’ campaign by Travel Retail (Riviera RESULTS Village RJ5) in collaboration with King Power Thailand, which took place in April/May and leveraged influencer marketing to target Chinese tourists travelling to Bangkok. The Defined brows, jelly textures, sheet masks and mineral- campaign utilised a strong ‘sense of place’ rich muds are among the trends on the radar for those concept that included Thai-themed travel retail exclusive packaging and digital and looking to refresh the beauty offer. Suppliers share social media platforms. what’s top of the agenda… By Faye Bartle “The initiative was a big success, and we will be reactivating the campaign with King Power Thailand from September through to November with additional locations and personalisation elements, such as a photo app for filter and onsite photo printing onto customised postcards for customers to mail to their loved ones,” said Shiseido Travel Retail Vice-President Marketing Elisabeth Jouguelet. The strategy is working. In the first half of 2017, Shiseido Travel Retail’s net sales (including Japan travel retail) grew by close to +80% year on year, driven by Asia Pacific. Also on the agenda has been integrating its new brand into the portfolio – and we can expect big things to come from it. “This year our focus has largely been on the handover and developing a new brand concept to be introduced in 2018,” said Jouguelet. “The biggest achievement will be the opening of a brand new Laura Mercier counter – the first opening for the brand under Shiseido Travel Retail’s management – in downtown Bangkok with King Power Thailand on 1 October.” (Harbour Village ACCAMA DELTA), is shaking things up by introducing all of its star products in travel-friendly sizes to recruit new customers. By the end of the year, the company is set to open stores in around 50 airports, strengthening its growth in Korea, China and the UK (“the three biggest markets for beauty”) and expanding its distribution in Central Europe, MEA and the Americas. “Brows is the second fastest growing segment in make-up after ,” said Beatrice Charreire, VP Marketing and Business Development – Travel Retail, Benefit Cosmetics. “Consumers are focusing more on make-up and less on fragrances and skincare.”

Ahava is launching two mineral-rich muds for millennials. Masks are estimated to be the fastest- growing skincare segment through the end of 2019, according to Euromonitor.

3 – TFWA DAILY SKINCARE, COSMETICS & FRAGRANCES SUPPLEMENT TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017

To reel them in, the company and unique products that they is launching a new travel retail cannot find anywhere else,” identity and visual merchan- said Carolina Montes, Commer- dising concept for travellers, ciale Export, International Sales with brow styling consultation Department, SLA Création helping to bring the vision to (Ambassadeurs Village U10). life. The brand is also reaping “The airport has become a the rewards of its celebrity discovery platform where even collaboration with Yangzi in new brands can innovate and China. The young actress and seduce consumers with special superblogger (who has no less gift sets or travel exclusive than 20 million followers on products. This, combined Weibo) is taking her role as with the advanced knowledge a Benefit Brow Ambassador consumers have about cosmetic seriously, with a comprehensive products, is bringing positive campaign on social media in benefits for our brand.” the works, as well as in-store An uplift is also being felt by animation in all airports with a Special Cosmetics (Marine predominantly Chinese passen- Village S8). Its Make up Studio ger profile set to cause a stir brand is now available in almost around the products. 80 countries – a figure that’s Maintaining an exclusive edge pegged to rise to 100 by 2018. is paying off for SLA Paris. “The biggest achievement this Shiseido Travel Retail is working with its partners to explore new and innovative ways to incorporate digital into its retail animations. “Travellers, and mostly millen- year is that we are going to One successful example of this is the NARS animation with King Power Thailand in January/February where NARS was the first nials, are looking for exclusive open in almost all Middle East make-up brand to leverage the retailer’s Weibo Live channel for a live broadcast of a make-up demonstration.

countries,” said Bertil van der Sea mud, which detoxifies, Purity Mask for men. Further Sluis, Global Sales Director. hydrates and smooths the skin. launches include the Wrap Yeux “Trends are based on glowing, “We are the only cosmet- Hyal-Eclat (Radiant Eye Contour matte and contouring, and we ics provider licensed by the Mask), Wrap Jambes Légères have different hero products state of to sustainably (Cool Menthol Leg Patches), for each type of skin and source this ‘black gold’,” said and a new premium Wrap D’Or colour tone.” Orenstein. There are more (Gold Illuminating Mask) with than 15 products in the 24-karat gold for a radiant BODY DOUBLES range containing the famous complexion. There’s also a Those in the skincare and mud, with new additions richer version of its Temps bodycare realm are innovat- including two mineral-rich Sublime cream to try. ing by championing their muds for millennials: a bright- Cult buy Huile Prodigieuse is unique attributes. ening and hydrating mud celebrating its 25th anniversary “We’ve been experiencing a mask and a clearing facial this year, for which Nuxe has continued influx of visitors treatment mud mask. created a newly enriched to Israel to experience the Mask fans will be pleased to formula with a high concentra- region,” said Barak learn that Qiriness (Blue Village tion of botanical oils for very dry Orenstein, CMO, Ahava (Green G24) has been listed in the skin, with a non-greasy texture. Village M62), which has several Air France inflight magazine There’s also the new Crème duty free locations, including with its best-selling Wrap Fraîche de Beauté range, one at Ben Gurion Airport. The Exfolys. Now, the company is containing a natural blend of The Spongellé Regenerating Facial Buffer with Built-In is focus in Cannes this year is on extending its portfolio with its botanical oils to nourish, repair a buffer infused with cleansing gel that gently cleanses, exfoliates and hydrates the skin – all in one easy application. its natural, mineral-rich Dead first Wrap Hydratant, Moisture and beautify the skin and hair

FACE THE FACTS With high profile fans including actress Sarah Parish and Tamara Lohan of Mr & Mrs Smith Boutique Hotels, FaceMatters (Blue Village G13) is carving a niche for itself as a brand with quality formulations that produce noticeable results. “There is definitely an increased trend in multi-functional products – our 24/7 Balm is a perfect example of this,” said Sally Curson, Founder, FaceMatters. “It is important to build awareness of the results of the product, which is a slow burn for a small brand.” Look out for the 24/7 Balm, which is a great all-rounder, and the All Day Spritz, which firms, tones and massively improves the overall health of the skin.

4 – TFWA DAILY MAKE UP EXPERT | FOR WOMEN OF COLOUR

Booth J40 | Green Village

GLOSSY LIQUID LIPCOLOR

black Up Advert TFWA 2016_def.indd 1 18/09/2017 18:23

L-ASCORBIC POWER TREATMENT

3 hialuronic dilutions with L-ascorbic acid at concentrations: 5%, 10% and 15%

Intensive UV Protection Hydrating and Regenerating Anti-wrinkle Day Cream Anti-wrinkle Night Cream SPF 30

30 DAYS TO REACH THE EFFECT OF TOTAL SKIN REJUVENATION Multilevel Antiaging and Illuminating Treatment which providesL-ASCORBIC total skin rejuvenation, POWER TREATMENT spectacular brightening and instant deep skin hydration. Instantly visible effects can be achieved by simultaneous application of day and night care creams together with a hyaluronic acid dilution of a stable L-ascorbic acid. VISIT US IN 2 LOCATIONS: LEVEL -1 IN RED VILLAGE; STAND L20 and SUPERTOY YACHT IN HARBOUR VILLAGE

L-ASCORBIC KV ENG.indd 1 22.08.2017 10:16 SKINCARE, COSMETICS & FRAGRANCES SUPPLEMENT TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017

PARISIAN PERFECTION Fashion trends have a big influence on product development according to Parisian brand Institut Karité Paris (Blue Village E3), which is currently available in several Kaner Duty Free Shops in North Cyprus, with plans to expand throughout Europe and to Latin America. Further to this, its coveted amenity kits are onboard China Airlines, Japan Airlines, Thai Airways, Turkish Airlines and Qatar Airways, with a selection of SKUs sold inflight on airlines such as Primera Air, Pegasus, SunExpress and Onur Air. This season, the brand is launching a new fragrance collection called Jungle Paradise, made in Grasse, providing a fresh point of interest to the existing catalogue, which includes Marseille Liquid Soaps and Shea Hand Cream, among other classics. “There is clearly a rising demand for beauty travel kits, small and handy formats,” said CEO Amir Al Chayah. “That’s why we launched smaller-sized products (10ml, 30ml, 50ml) and 27g soaps. They’re perfect for travelling.” Sets and beauty bags composed of ‘must-haves’ from the collection are also proving popular. “A demand for more sophisticated scents for the body care range has also emerged. In response to that, we have developed high quality perfumes such as Gardenia, Jasmine or Fleur-de-lis,” added Al Chayah. Sampling and complimentary hand massages using the iconic Shea Hand Cream are helping to win new fans as the company strives to enter new markets such as Norway, India, Ecuador and Uruguay in the near future.

with a dry texture that’s free and wellness is here to stay, from mineral oils and silicone – and consumers are continu- all with a signature scent. ing to realise that what they Having made its travel retail put on their skin can be as debut in 2014, the brand has important as what they put in secured 190 points of sale in the their body. Lastly, as the urban channel (including in airports, lifestyle becomes increasingly on board ferries and at border stressful, we are continuing shops), as well as with 60 to see more anti-stress and Benefit describes itself as airlines covering 32 countries. anti-pollution products.” “the world’s leading brow authority”, with over four “During the first semester in The beauty routines favoured in million brows shaped in the 2017, we opened 30 doors: 26 different cultures are continuing last year alone. in Europe, one in the Middle to affect the product selection. East and three in North Africa,” “Consumers in North America, said Marion Bruimaud, Travel for example, are looking for Retail Director, Laboratoire multi-purpose, multi-benefit NUXE (Green Village J36). products that help stream- The company is now seeking line their beauty routines, to develop its presence in the whereas in Asia, the multi-step Middle East and Africa. skincare routine prevails,” said Orenstein. “We are seeing BEAUTY SENSATIONS consumers gravitating to more When it comes to trends, food- natural alternatives, products related ingredients in skincare that contain muds, clays, are among the most influential. natural oils – and they are “Free-from is still on the rise, looking to see what product as is dermocosmetics,” said ingredient lists do not contain, Orenstein. “Of course, one as much as to see what they cannot ignore the continued incorporate. Masks continue rise of K-beauty, as it’s impact- to be a hot item, and are ing both the number of steps in estimated to be the fastest- the skincare routine, as well as growing skincare segment specific ingredients. Further- through the end of 2019, more, the mega-trend of health according to Euromonitor.”

6 – TFWA DAILY

SKINCARE, COSMETICS & FRAGRANCES SUPPLEMENT TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017

THE HOW TO SLA PARIS PALETTE CONTAINS 10 SHADES OF ICONIC NUDE COLOURS THAT WILL DRESS YOUR EYES DAY AND NIGHT. THE 360-DEGREE PALETTE ALSO INCLUDES A FIXING BASE, A LUMINIZER AND A DOUBLE ENDED BRUSH.

Championing the natural very innovative and sold at approach, Spongellé’s new reasonable prices,” said Arnaud Facial Buffer and Cleanser, de Volontat, Owner and CEO, which functions like a moistur- Altimetre (Ambassadeurs iser, make-up remover and Village U8). Already this year, facial cleanser in one, is the company has expanded its especially appealing to travel- distribution to DFS, Lagardère lers. The buffers are infused Group, King Power, Disney with ingredients such as carrot, Cruise and Regent Cruise. cucumber and aloe vera, can be Also well-positioned in the used around 15 times, and are natural realm is Panier affordable too (US$15-20). Des Sens (Golden Village “The skincare category has GO19) cosmetics, which shown positive signs of growth are made in the South of this year – mostly due to new France to champion the brands and products that are beauty of Provence and the TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017

Mediterranean through its complete helping the brand to shine. ® line of bodycare and fragrances. In haircare, consumers are becoming Keeping the tradition for quality more playful with colour from a fashion soap-making alive, its products have a standpoint, according to Moroccanoil. minimum of 72% exclusive vegetable Plus, the trend for dry is oils and are produced without colouring especially relevant for those on the or synthetic surfactants. move. “Looking to bodycare, there is a “The brand story started in the US, big demand from our customers to offer our historical market, before enjoying an oil product comparable to the hair success in Asia, in the Chinese and Moroccanoil Treatment for the body,” Korean markets in particular,” said said John Gates, Vice President, Retail Marketing Director Aurélie Muntaner. and Travel Retail Sales, Moroccanoil Currently, Panier Des Sens is avail- (Blue Village F12), which has earned able in duty free through Aelia, with a more than 300 points of sale in the door in Marseille Airport, as well as in channel in three years. Italy and the UK, marking 11 doors in “We are seeing strong growth in total. Items developed especially for make-up, especially in the lip segment, the channel, such as the travel pouch, thanks to millennials’ inclination for travel sizes and tin gift boxes are sharing their selfies on social media,”

THE RITUAL OF SAKURA celebrate each day as a new beginning QIRINESS IS EXTENDING ITS PORTFOLIO WITH ITS FIRST WRAP HYDRATANT, The ancient Hanami ceremony from Japan celebrates the fleeting beauty of the Sakura blossom. As with life itself, MOISTURE PURITY MASK FOR MEN. its beauty is short lived and precious and should be enjoyed FURTHER LAUNCHES INCLUDE THE to the fullest. Discover the ritual of Sakura and celebrate WRAP YEUX HYAL-ECLAT (RADIANT EYE each day as a new beginning. CONTOUR MASK), WRAP JAMBES LÉGÈRES (COOL MENTHOL LEG PATCHES), AND A NEW PREMIUM YOUR BODY. YOUR SOUL. YOUR RITUALS. WRAP D’OR (GOLD ILLUMINATING [email protected] | rituals.com MASK) WITH 24-KARAT GOLD FOR A RADIANT COMPLEXION. YELLOW B19

9 – TFWA DAILY SKINCARE, COSMETICS & FRAGRANCES SUPPLEMENT TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017

added Jouguelet. In response, the company is launching several new lip products, including Powermatte Lip Pigment and Precision Pencil from NARS (Fall 2017); a CASE STUDY: THE RISE OF RITUALS new lipstick collection replacing the existing Extra Rich Lipstick Line (12 shades in AW17 and A brand that is currently and is supplying its onboard three new shades in SS18) and enjoying impressive growth amenity products to yet more Radiant (SS18) from Clé de Peau Beauté. in the channel is Rituals airlines. The focus in Cannes “The natural look – with Cosmetics (Yellow Village this week is to highlight the minimal heavy contouring B19). Neil Ebbutt, Director refreshed ranges from some and clean, dewy complexions Wholesale, shares the strategy of the company’s best sellers, – is still very much on-trend, driven by popular hashtags for the success… such as The Ritual of Sakura such as #iwokeuplikethis, “Business with our existing and, in particular, the Ritual #nomakeup and #nofilter,” trade customers has grown of Ayurveda, which is to be continued Jouguelet. Multitasking beauty products by over 50% this year and relaunched with three new are also proving popular. we continued our gradual products in the collection. Clé de Peau Beauté’s new expansion into new duty and Another push will be on the stick , for instance (relaunched in January), is a tax free territories such as latest travel retail exclusives. multifunctional product that can Eastern Europe, Northern As for trends, the move be used to conceal imperfec- Africa and are soon to be towards “products that offer tions, as well as for highlighting and contouring. The rise of launching in the Middle East. an experiential dimension” natural products is evidenced Our first and business class is continuing, according to in Shiseido’s new WASO range, inflight business supplying Ebbutt, as well as a demand which contains ingredients like carrot, honey, tofu and white products for amenities kits for more “environmentally jelly mushroom. and for use in restrooms has sustainable products”. “As beauty and wellbeing also grown very strongly. “‘Me-time’ products with converge, more consumers are looking for products that are “A second aim is to grow a ritual dimension, give designed to maintain the health through continuing the consumers a chance to do of skin, not just fix symptoms,” geographic expansion in that,” he explained. said Jouguelet. “This shift from treatment to prevention has EMEA, but also expanding “In terms of product I think made skincare that works from into the Americas and Asia. the biggest opportunities within more important. This has Our third aim is to add to for growth are more also made suncare a priority to consumers, and we are tapping our portfolio of standalone diversity in product into this with our Shiseido airport stores. We now categories such as home suncare collection, as well as have eight standalone products, EDP, suncare, our Anessa suncare brand.” Rituals airport stores; we travel exclusives and SMARTER SHOPPING mostly operate these in limited editions. As consumers are increasingly partnership with key retail “Although the researching products before buying, using social media to concession companies. opportunities are more help with decision-making “There have been a limited, in terms of is now a vital part of the number of other important retail formats branded customer journey. success stories for us during standalone airport stores, “To cater to today’s omnichan- nel customer, one of the key the year to date. We have operated in partnership, priorities of our digital strategy won new listings with new trade are without doubt the best is to integrate the digital and customers, especially in channels of outlets way for us to present and demonstrate our virtual propositions to ensure a consistent and seamless travel such as cruise lines. We’ve opened more full product portfolio, which has over 500 retail shopping experience,” standalone airport stores and launched more products. This is an option we continue to said Jouguelet. “Through new products.” pursue wherever the opportunities arise. insights and data-driven marketing design, we have Since last year’s exhibition, the company “In terms of the sales channels I think there developed digital activations has introduced a new range of exclusives is huge potential, for both standalone and to generate leads, increase and limited editions for travel retail, opened shop-in-shop formats, in the cruise ship awareness and drive engage- ment at every touchpoint of new shop-in-shop fixtures in more World channel, which has not had the focus of the consumer journey. The Duty Free airport stores across Europe, attention that it is now beginning to get.” insights we harness from these touchpoints allow us to create tailored marketing campaigns

10 – TFWA DAILY

SKINCARE, COSMETICS & FRAGRANCES SUPPLEMENT TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017

and content to better engage with digital technologies such and serve consumers.” as iPads, motion-sensing At the physical point of sale, the screens and interactive photo company focuses on creating booths, with heavy promotion inspiring animations with on social media platforms. For strong digital/social media Clé de Peau Beauté, the thrust and experiential elements. is offering top-notch customer For example, activations for service and brand experiences skincare brand Shiseido have through VIP events that pamper blended Japanese aesthetics customers with luxurious

skincare treatments. For NARS, make-up demonstra- NEW FROM tions are a highlight. MADE IN PROVENCE WITH BAREMINERALS, “Digital connectivity cannot be FRAGRANCES FROM GRASSE, ignored and neither can video – VIA SHISEIDO TRAVEL we can transmit the power and PANIER DES SENS’ COSMETIC RETAIL, IS THE BAREPRO benefits of the Dead Sea origin FORMULAS HIGHLIGHT of our brand through these PERFORMANCE WEAR tools,” said Orenstein. “Also, TRADITIONAL VEGETABLE LIQUID it helps when we can show INGREDIENTS FROM consumers and allow them BROAD SPECTRUM SPF to touch, smell, and apply the THE REGION. 20, PROVIDING 24-HOUR, muds, salts, scrubs and unique textures within our brand and BREATHABLE, FULL AND truly experience the Dead Sea NATURAL-MATTE in our points of sale.” reach the consumer at various concentration of players had In terms of brand building, touchpoints. the biggest influence on our COVERAGE. AVAILABLE Ahava is working hand in hand For smaller players, having a business for the last three IN TEN SHADES FOR with its partners in the channel breakthrough moment can be to five years by delaying or to tell its story through videos, hard won. “The re-structuration cancelling the incorporation of TRAVEL RETAIL. social media, and tailored of our industry with the recent new products, or by making it POS materials and displays to acquisitions resulting in the impossible for small companies

12 – TFWA DAILY

SKINCARE, COSMETICS & FRAGRANCES SUPPLEMENT TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017

like us due to an excessively everywhere have lost some our participation as official high margin request from interest. This is the time for make-up artists in the Monte the main operators,” said de smaller but equally quality Carlo television festival earlier Volontat. “It is not easy for brands to step up. Airports this year, consumers and small companies to abandon are looking for new and trendy celebrities have discovered our a very high margin. However, brands in the cosmetic sector,” products and have chosen it we have established very good said Montes. “Our biggest as their favourite liquid relationships with big duty free opportunity for growth is related matte lipstick.” operators that champion the to the fact that nowadays As for what the future holds, experience our product will consumers have more knowl- Shiseido Travel Retail points bring to their consumers and, edge about the product and east: “The biggest growth if correctly priced, will turn in how to use it, and can easily will continue to come from high sales volume.” compare the quality of differ- Asia Pacific, which was the The new Nuxe Crème Fraîche de Beauté range is formulated for dehydrated skin, It’s something that can also be ent brands. I can illustrate only region that registered offering 48 hours of moisturising and anti-pollution qualities thanks to gentle botanical milks and a hi-tech algae extract – all with an orange blossom scent. viewed as a positive. this behaviour with a simple growth (+20.7%) for the beauty “Brands that can be found example: our Lipcrush. After category in FY2016, according to Generation Research. In 2018, the launch of our strategic growing our business in further we anticipate a strengthened new brand Laura Mercier; an collaboration with our retailers Moroccanoil’s new sets for 2018 include Beauty Superstars, which contains presence with increased overhaul of Shiseido’s entire and will continue to maximise Dry Shampoo Light Tones (65ml), Hydrating Styling Cream (75ml), Luminous Hairspray Strong (75ml), and Moroccanoil Treatment (25ml). market share, accelerated by make-up collection; a revitali- our key business drivers in 2018 sation of Clé de Peau Beauté; and beyond.” and continued strategic expan- The bullish sentiment is sion of NARS. While our current something many suppliers in focus for Dolce&Gabbana the category can get behind remains on fragrances, we and, if this latest wave of expect the brand to help us products and retail solutions is deliver accelerated growth next anything to go by, buyers will be year. We remain committed to taking it by the horns.

Learn more about the cosmetics & skincare innovations being presented at TFWA World Exhibition & Conference by visiting the TFWA Product Showcase (www.tfwaproductshowcase.com). TAILORED.pdf 1 04/09/2017 13:51:02 Scan this code to visit the TFWA Product Showcase

NEW FRAGRANCES COMING SOON

C

M WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU TO: Y

CM

MY WORLD EXHIBITION CY AND CONFERENCE CMY

K GREEN VILLAGE M72

www.tailoredperfumes.com [email protected] FRAGRANCES

TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE 2017 FEATURE

TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017 SKINCARE, COSMETICS & FRAGRANCES SUPPLEMENT

Each scent in The Spirit of Dubai Parfums collection is inspired by the city of Dubai.

While iconic, classic scents in driving purchases, thanks are here to stay, modern- to bloggers and fragrance day fragrance aficionados reviews. Consumers are also are looking for aromas that looking beyond the scent and capture a mood, a memory, are seeking immersive sensory or even an experience they experiences that bring the want bottled. fragrance story to life. We are SIGNATURE addressing this with inspiring “The concept of the ‘signature retailtainment-driven activa- scent’ is being redefined – tions with digital and social consumers are moving from media elements.” having one go-to branded It’s something that is being SCENTS fragrance to owning a wardrobe noticed across the board. of scents that are increasingly Alexandre.J, for instance, has personalised,” said Shiseido experienced marked growth Wave goodbye to signature scents as you know them. Travel Retail Vice-President this year due to a new business Marketing Elisabeth Jouguelet model: The Pavilion. “The Today, consumers are seeking to furnish a personalised (Riviera Village RJ5). “Digital Pavilion is our own dedicated fragrance wardrobe that captures their multi-faceted and social media are also points of sale that enable the becoming more influential brand to express itself in the lifestyle – and they want to be inspired. By Faye Bartle

right environment. Customers perfumery, which has boosted have been very receptive to this growth for our business. Plus, new approach,” said Amélie proliferation of social media and Jabban, Global Brand Manager, online reviews have helped to Creation Realization & Market- spread the word and there has ing, Alexandre.J (Red Village been greater acceptance for the L23), which is spotlighting the brand globally,” said Asghar Alexandre.J Oscent Adam Ali (Al Attar), Founder & fragrance in Cannes. “This new Chairman, Nabeel Perfumes business channel also proves Group of Companies (Golden the company’s ability to set new Village GO14). The company trends in terms of marketing, has built a strong foothold notably highlighting our exper- with its own flagships and tise towards perfume creation, presence in speciality depart- with the development of our ment stores in the GCC and Atelier Parfums – two-hour opened its first international workshops dedicated to boutique in London’s Knights- bloggers and VIP clients.” bridge, opposite Harrods in First-time exhibitor, The Spirit March 2017. In Cannes, the of Dubai Parfums, is also company will be showcasing Shiseido Travel Retail’s Elie Saab Girl of Now, by perfumers Sophie highlighting the impact of the 14 fragrances in total, seven Labbé and Dominique Ropion features Elie Saab’s olfactory signature: orange blossom-patchouli accord with notes such as pear and digital age. “There’s a shift from its first generation luxury mandarin. Available in travel retail from August. toward the demand for niche collection and seven from the

17 – TFWA DAILY SKINCARE, COSMETICS & FRAGRANCES SUPPLEMENT TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017

second generation, ultra-luxury collection. Each is unique in terms of concept, presentation and perfume, and there are also seven perfumed body A NATURAL as line extensions of the first generation. Adam Ali credits CHOICE the focus on rare ingredients, As the quest for natural beauty an androgynous approach, and distinctive dispensing mecha- products continues to rise, nisms, as among the ways to Les Senteurs Gourmandes stay relevant. (Green Village K37) is attracting “Customer tastes are evolving to become more sophisticated,” attention for its fragrances that he said. “Discerning shoppers are free from phthalates, and are showing more interest bath and body products with “new in authentic products with a renewed appetite for artistic generation” pure formulations. perfumes, bespoke ingredients “Les Senteurs Gourmandes and brand narrative.” targets people who are looking for The effects of becoming a social sensation can be far reaching. inspiration and a different way to “With the rise of influenc- experience natural fragrances ers and beauty bloggers, through unique olfactory products and brands can go from relative obscurity to best journeys,” said Aurélie Badie, seller in a matter of days,” said Product Manager, Les Senteurs Stuart McGuire, CEO Scorpio Gourmandes. Made in France, Worldwide (Mediterranean Village P8). Scorpio is currently and inspired by the rich heritage of consolidating its inflight the South-West region, the products are designed around five olfactory spheres: traditional business with Victoria’s Secret, vanillas, the orchard, childhood memories, travel diary, and oud collection. and Lipsmacker, as well as bringing new brands to “Our fragrances deliver genuine and full-bodied notes that come alive on the skin,” said Badie. market. This year, the company

is introducing a new brand to in itself. The category has been that the gourmand trend is its portfolio: Roja Perfumes. on the rise for a number of coming to an end. “New scent In Cannes, buyers can view years and a number of travel territories around flowery the new Roja Elysium for retail venues are devoting more notes with a modern twist will gentlemen, along with a and more space to niche,” said appear,” said David Rios, COO selection of other scents from Donald Bauchner, Founder, Fragrance Division, Lalique the Roja collection. Perfumer’s Workshop Inter- Beauty (formerly known as Art “We will also be launching national (Yellow Village G40), & Fragrance) (Red Village J33), Missguided Babe Power, which whose oud-based Amouroud which is focusing on expanding has rocketed to the top of the portfolio is set to expand from the presence of Lalique and domestic fragrance best seller eight to 10 fragrances by the Bentley. “Even if the current list, selling out within three year-end, including the latest high level of perfume concen- hours of launching in the UK,” addition Bois D’Orient. “The tration – brought in by niche added McGuire. only negative factor facing niche perfumery – might decrease, perfumery in travel retail is, the long lastingness and power ATYPICAL AROMAS and will remain, space alloca- will remain the key driver in the When it comes to the next big tion to the category. The more upcoming years.” thing, it pays to be different. space made available, the more He also believes that regional “Our niche category is still new interest all niche perfume preferences are becoming less within the perfume industry, brands will enjoy. Particularly prominent, due to the ‘globali- but it is increasingly attracting important for the category sation’ of consumer habits. new buyers who wish to enlarge is that some of the more “There will be a chance for local their portfolio with different ‘commercial niche’ brands are best sellers to become global labels that are able to bring at price points that aren’t much winners and, hopefully, it will added value to end consumers,” higher than traditional prestige slow down the number of flank- CREATION REALIZATION & said Jabban. “End-consumers fragrance brands, making the ers,” said Rios. “Niche brands MARKETING LOOKS TO TRAVEL are not loyal anymore – they trade-up less burdensome on will continue to develop but will want to venture outside their the consumer’s pocket.” become more mainstream. In RETAIL TO FURTHER comfort zone with brands offer- As well as developing gondolas turn, major brands are becom- REINFORCE BRAND CREDIBILITY ing an experience. They expect for display, products testing and ing more segmented and are the label to meet with their selling, Perfumer’s Workshop providing more personalised AND GLOBAL RECOGNITION. values and expectations.” International is introducing services. Indeed, the frontier PICTURED HERE IS It’s something that an increas- especially made vials that will between products and services ing number of suppliers are be filled at the counter by the might become thinner in the ALEXANDRE.J OSCENT ROUGE. keeping a close eye on. in-store beauty advisers. coming years. The upcoming “The niche category is a trend One thing Lalique predicts is challenge for travel retail is

18 – TFWA DAILY #POLICELIFESTYLE | SHOP.MAVIVE.COM

Indelible fragrances on your skin MAVIVE M30 RED VILLAGE SKINCARE, COSMETICS & FRAGRANCES SUPPLEMENT TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017

having the intelligence to make soon launch a new Elie Saab recommendations that are fragrance, Girl of Now.” tailored to consumers’ wishes.” In line with the trend towards Shiseido Travel Retail has premium is the rise of been leveraging the existing niche, artisanal fragrances Dolce&Gabbana portfo- – examples of which include lio since adding it to its Dolce&Gabbana’s Velvet Collec- portfolio last October. Most tion and the Serge Lutens brand. recently, The One is being “With the increasing use of revitalised with a brand new fragrances among millennials, EDT for women, supported we are seeing more classic by a new campaign fronted fragrances being released in by English actors Emilia new and lighter reinterpreta- Clarke and Kit Harington. tions to appeal to them,” added “Premium fragrances are Jouguelet. “Dolce&Gabbana, growing in demand, as for example, has reimagined consumer preferences are its iconic The One EDP female shifting from mass-market fragrance with the launch of toward high-end fragrances,” The One EDT, featuring an said Jouguelet. “As a result, added twist of freshness and a we are seeing more and more new bottle design.” luxury brands expand into the fragrance category to capture ON THE SCENT consumers in the lower Looking once more to the income brackets who aspire Middle East, Ajmal has been to own a piece of the brand. focusing on increasing the Our haute couture brands exposure of its travel retail Shiseido Travel Retail’s Dolce&Gabbana The One Eau de Toilette – a new interpretation of the original The One EDP for women – has an added twist of Issey Miyake and Elie Saab exclusives and is performing freshness. Available in global travel retail from September. are doing well, and we will well onboard KLM Airlines and

SPOTLIGHT ON COFINLUXE Known for having its finger on the pulse when it comes to emerging trends, Cofinluxe is highlighting the rise of two extremes. “On one hand, people are attracted by ‘lower’ or ‘best’ price offers while, on the other hand, niche products at more expensive price points are starting to appear on the shelves,” said Valérie Dufournier, Responsable de la Communication, Cofinluxe (Red Village K35). “Further to this, consumers expect to see a price difference between travel retail (tax free) and downtown prices, which are becoming less noticeable. They are also asking for more travel sets (or sets with a gift with purchase or travel specials) – something that makes them feel as if they’re getting a good bargain and an added value compared to what they can find at their local store. Lastly, they always want the newest fragrance.” While a select number of brands work hard to produce variants under one brand name, an increasing number of spin-off scents can be confusing, according to Dufournier. “When they want ‘xyz’ fragrance and are presented a whole collection of different fragrances with the same name but different under names – such as EDT, EDP, Extreme, Intense etc – they are completely puzzled as to which one to choose. Nowadays, people know names, not scents. And very often they would rather buy a name they saw or heard via advertising, even if they prefer the scent of another product that is not advertised.” In Cannes, the company is showcasing Parfums Salvador Dali, Sunrise in Cadaquès for women, Sunrise in Cadaquès for men and Parfums Charriol Infinite Celtic for men, as well as two new collections for the niche brand Dali Haute Parfumerie: Daligramme Collection and The Fabulous Collection.

20 – TFWA DAILY

SKINCARE, COSMETICS & FRAGRANCES SUPPLEMENT TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE MONDAY 2 OCTOBER 2017

by the response so far.” are well trained in our products The opportunity to buy a slice and work to engage customers of a number of top scents in with our brand.” the collection is helping to In a move that’s currently lure new fans. under consideration, buyers “Consumers are now more open may be able to look forward to experimentation and will look to a collection of travel retail outside the confines of brands exclusives from the company in that they are accustomed to,” due course. said Ajmal. “This is the reason Parlux takes this a step further we see novelty within the travel by enlisting high-profile person- retail environment. Creativity is alities to do the talking. increasingly important rather “Celebrity appearances in than brand value. Everyone top markets, out-of-the-box present has an equal opportu- animations at the point of sale nity to impress with their range enticing customers to discover of products.” our fragrances, trained beauty Value is also being highlighted advisers, and offering excellent thanks to expertly trained gifts with purchase, are the beauty advisors – a strategy ways in which we are enhancing designed to positively impact on the shopping experience,” said Ajmal says its partners the decision-making process. Carola Molina, International Perfumer’s Workshop International’s oud-based provide the company with For Nabeel Perfumes Group Sales, Parlux Fragrances Amouroud portfolio is set to expand from eight equal opportunity to expose of Companies, venturing into (Golden Village GO5-7), which to 10 fragrances by the year-end, including the its products to effectively latest addition Bois D’Orient – a combination of target travellers. travel retail means having is showcasing Rosé Rush Paris wood notes, rare spices and exotic flowers. multi-lingual staff who are Hilton – the second feminine well versed in the fragrance addition to the Gold Rush with Tourvest Duty Free. narrative, offering luxurious scent assortment. experience with Zadig & animations that are tailored “On the ground, BestValue sampling and complimentary For Shiseido Travel Retail, Voltaire are three case studies to their market,” added Duty Free in Romania has done gifts with purchase supported consistency is paramount. that spring to mind. Now, Jouguelet. “We also continu- exceedingly well,” said Abdulla by digital technology tools and “We are working to optimise the company is continuing to ously innovate and refresh Ajmal, Deputy Chief Operating promotional messages at desig- our digital marketing efforts to work with retailers to target our assortment of travel retail Officer, Ajmal Perfumes (Red nated points in the passenger engage consumers at various its marketing efforts towards exclusives in order to offer our Village H18), which is target- journey, in order to maximise touchpoints on their travel traveling consumers by partners strong differentiation ing a 50% rise in its number dwell time. journey, such as through leveraging its digital platforms over the domestic market.” of travel retail locations. “We “We would propose striking partnerships with retailers and loyalty schemes to push And when you have that base are now introducing a number visual displays and merchan- and airports on their digital awareness of new launches, covered, the sky’s the limit. of exclusive to travel retail dising displays to garner the platforms,” said Jouguelet. encourage pre-order sales and products, all built around the right level of attention with the “A key objective of our digital drive online-to-offline traffic ethnic chic concept Ajmal right targets and appropriate strategy is to create an to the stores. Rosé Rush Paris Hilton marks the second is known for. We have also locations for our sought after omni-channel framework “We work closely with our feminine addition to the Gold Rush scent assortment from Parlux Fragrances. The launched a miniature collection products,” said Adam Ali. “We that seamlessly integrates partners to come up with floral-rose-fruity fragrance was created for him and her and are excited would have dedicated staff who the online and offline travel creative and inspiring by perfumer Richard Herpin of Firmenich. retail shopping experience to ensure consistency in the Lalique Illusion eyes of the traveller.” Captive is an ambery An example of this is, at chypre fragrance the point of sale, impact- enhanced by fresh Italian bergamot and ful activations that tell the a sheer floral heart brand stories. Retailtain- in a bottle inspired ment, also integral to the by René Lalique’s strategy for driving traffic, Dragonfly brooch. helps by offering a premium service in terms of gifting and experience. “In a digital world, customer service is a key differentiator at the physical points of sale,” said Jouguelet. “Furthermore, consumers nowadays want to immerse themselves in brands and experience them in an authentic way. Our campaigns focus on offering consumers a high level of service by our beauty consultants as well as genuine brand experiences, with creative concepts that allow them to experience the best of our brands.” Learn more about the fragrances innovations being The Italian glamour of presented at TFWA World Exhibition & Conference Dolce&Gabbana, the Japanese by visiting the TFWA Product Showcase minimalism of Issey Miyake (www.tfwaproductshowcase.com). Scan this code to and the rock and roll Parisian visit the TFWA Product Showcase

22 – TFWA DAILY

TFWA - AP2018 - Annonce Presse « Identité » pour DAILY Cannes 2017 - Format : 228x328 mm