Sandy White [email protected] www.sandlertravel.com 832-305-7825

PUERTO VALLARTA, JALISCO, MEXICO

OVERVIEW

Introduction

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, masterfully plays the part of a remote tropical getaway, even as it grows into a larger city that's connected to the outside world by multinational chain stores and a steady stream of jets and cruise ships.

Puerto Vallarta's success has a lot to do with looks. However, in recent years, unchecked development along every inch of its beach has gradually turned the once-quaint fishing village enjoyed by the moneyed few into a mass-market destination. Still, there remains much beauty in Vallarta (as it is known to the locals and habitues) and the coast to its northwest.

Whitewashed walls and terra-cotta-tiled roofs are nestled along Banderas Bay, with the ornate crown of the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe serving as a focal point. The lush, green foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains to the east make for a beautiful and dramatic backdrop.

Puerto Vallarta's style is another key. Even as more and more travelers have arrived, and more and more hotels have been built, it has somehow managed to retain—or at least appears to retain—a cultured grace that's rare in heavily touristed areas.

Artists, architects, writers and chefs flourish in this rarified climate of tropical creativity. The restaurants, galleries and shops there are some of the finest in the country, drawing local talent from Mexico City and Guadalajara, and farther afield from Italy, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S. and elsewhere.

Sights—Spiritual reverence at La Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe; a day trip to Mismaloya or Yelapa; whale-watching tours December-March in Banderas Bay; educational turtle-camp tours in which hatchlings of the endangered species are released.

Memorable Meals—Barcelona Tapas for the magnificent view and the best tapas in town; La Palapa for superb service, excellent cuisine and a romantic setting; Trio for its seasonal dishes and tasty desserts; El Arrayan for an intimate and authentic Mexican meal in a quaint, charismatic setting.

Late Night—J&B Salsa Club for the authentic salsa experience; Vallartacrawl for a high-energy crowd and dancing in three clubs; Garbo Bar for fabulous martinis in a sophisticated ambience with piano renderings; The Zoo for some atavistic conviviality.

Walks—A seaside jaunt along the spacious pedestrian-only malecon; a short hike into the hills of Gringo Gulch for excellent views of the city and bay; browsing the shops and restaurants at Marina Vallarta followed by sunset cocktails at its bird's-eye-view lighthouse.

Especially for Kids—Swimming with dolphins at Vallarta Adventures; splashing at Aquaventuras waterpark; seeing crocodiles in their natural habitat and learning all about them at El Salado Estuary. Puerto Vallarta lies at the coastal center of Banderas Bay, a large semicircular inlet on Mexico's Pacific coast. The oldest part of the city is El Centro (also referred to as Viejo Vallarta, Old Town or downtown). The malecon, a bustling mile-long promenade, runs along the waterfront from the Hotel Rosita at its northern end to the South Side's Plaza Lazaro Cardenas. It passes the Plaza Principal (Main Square) and one block east of that is the city's main church. West of the church and several blocks inland, in the hills, is the neighborhood known as Gringo Gulch.

At the southern end of El Centro is Rio Cuale. Isla Rio Cuale is a narrow island at the mouth of the river. South of the river is another old neighborhood called South Side (better known as Zona Romantica or occasionally Emiliano Zapata). That's where you'll find the most popular downtown beaches—Playa los Muertos (which the government and tourist agencies prefer you call by the much less sinister-sounding Playa del Sol, but that sunnier-sounding moniker has never really caught on). Just south of Playa los Muertos is the hillside neighborhood of Conchas Chinas.

Developments, resorts and villages dot the bay's coastline. Heading north of downtown takes you to the oceanfront Zona Hotelera (hotel strip), Marina Vallarta (which contains the cruise-ship and yacht harbors, hotels, shops and restaurants), the airport and the main bus station. Continuing north, you'll find Nuevo Vallarta, which marks the beginning of the state of Nayarit and the area known as the Riviera Nayarit, a separate, traditionally upscale tourist destination running nearly 200 mi/322 km north along the coast and Banderas Bay. Beyond Bucerias lies La Cruz de Huanacaxtle with its 400-vessel-capacity marina and, at the northern tip of the bay, the surfer's paradise of Punta de Mita and the private Punta Mita complex housing luxury resorts, mansions and PGA golf courses.

South of Puerto Vallarta, a region that receives fewer visitors, are several beach areas, including Mismaloya and Boca de Tomatlan. Farther down the coast, and reachable only by boat, are Las Animas, Quimixto, Las Caletas and Yelapa. The Costalegre region, starting about an hour south and continuing to the next state after Barra de Navidad, has some of the most spectacular beaches in Mexico and is home to several exclusive resorts.

The area around Puerto Vallarta was originally inhabited by Tarascans, Chapalas, Huichol and members of the Aztec confederation of tribes. The first European to visit Puerto Vallarta was Francisco Hernandez de San Buenaventura, a nephew of conqueror Hernan Cortes.

As the story goes—it has likely been embellished over the years—the Spanish explorer and his party were met on the shore by 20,000 Indians, each carrying a flag made of bird feathers. In turn, the Spanish produced four banderas (banners), including one that depicted the Immaculate Conception. This display supposedly subdued the natives, who laid aside their feather flags, while a Spanish priest prayed for their souls. Banderas Bay takes its name from the event.

Centuries later the bay was a favorite of pirates who lurked in its coves and inlets waiting to plunder the richly laden Spanish galleons traveling from the Philippines to Acapulco. Smugglers trying to avoid the custom houses in San Blas also landed their boats in Puerto Vallarta.

Although the flag incident was said to have occurred in 1525, development of the bay didn't begin until the 1850s, when the Sanchez family used the Rio Cuale as a port for transporting silver from the mines in the nearby sierra. The town was called Las Penas then, and for a long time fewer than 2,000 people—mostly farmers and fishermen—lived there. In 1888, half the town was destroyed by fire. According to legend, the damage would have been less if most of the male population were not attending a cockfight. In 1918, Las Penas was renamed to honor Ignacio Luis Vallarta, governor of the state of Jalisco.

By the 1940s, commercial flights began landing on a dirt airstrip outside town. Artists and writers from the U.S., disillusioned with the McCarthy era, started immigrating to Vallarta in the 1950s and built homes in what is now known as Gringo Gulch. By the late 1960s, it was a hideaway for movie stars and other reclusive types, and remained charming and serene.

What really ignited interest in the city was Hollywood. In 1963, director John Huston chose Puerto Vallarta as the location for his film adaptation of Tennessee Williams' The Night of the Iguana, which starred Richard Burton, Deborah Kerr and Ava Gardner. Elizabeth Taylor wasn't in the movie, but she accompanied Burton, with whom she was having a torrid affair. Much of the filming was done in the deserted cove of Mismaloya. The antics of Taylor and Burton attracted the international press and gave Vallarta its reputation as a steamy romantic escape; soon, large numbers of travelers went to experience it for themselves.

In 1968, a road was built from Tepic, about 105 mi/169 km northeast of Vallarta, to connect Puerto Vallarta by road to the rest of the world.

Location Cruise ships sail into Banderas Bay and dock at Terminal Maritima (also known simply as "the Marina," not to be confused with Marina Vallarta). Tourist information is available in the terminal of the Port Authority (AP), and you'll also find local tour operators, bilingual guide-chauffeurs with cars, a car rental agency, souvenir shops, an internet cafe, public telephones, restaurants, bars, music, artisan markets, a money-exchange house and taxis. Ave. Francisco Medina Ascencio Km 4.5, Marina Vallarta. Phone 322-224-1000.

Just north of the terminal is Marina Vallarta, a yacht harbor and resort. Puerto Vallarta's Centro is about 10 minutes south of the terminal. Buses and taxis provide transportation. Just across the main highway is the Plaza Galerias indoor shopping mall with all manner of cafes, restaurants and boutiques.

Typical shore excursions offer tours of the city, beaches and the surrounding villages, canopy zipline excursions in the jungle, horseback riding, tequila tasting, swimming and snorkeling, shopping tours, swimming with dolphins, nature tours, sailing charters, scuba diving, Mexican cooking classes, deep-sea fishing, ATV tours, off-road dune buggies, or whale-watching excursions (December-March). Check with your travel agent for additional information.

Potpourri

Breaching humpback whales are a common (yet always exciting) sight along Banderas Bay in the winter, returning and departing on essentially the same schedule as Puerto Vallarta's many snowbirds. Tour outfits also provide hydrophones to hear them "singing."

For the first 12 days of December, Puerto Vallarta exhibits an especially festive air, when the Virgin of Guadalupe (patron saint of not only Puerto Vallarta, but also Mexico, North America and the entire Western Hemisphere) is honored with processions to the church named for her. Mariachis, charros (Mexican cowboys), pre-Hispanic dancers, fishermen and others enthusiastically take part, while camera-toting tourists merrily click away.

Legend—so far unverified—has it that disputes among the five stars of The Night of the Iguana were so intense that director John Huston—after filming wrapped—gave each a golden Colt .45 with exactly five bullets.

Huichol Indians in traditional dress make their famous beaded handicrafts in shops downtown. Among themselves, they go by the name Wixarika and are one of the largest groups of indigenous people in Mexico who maintain their ancient traditions.

Another group of indigenous people, the famous voladores ("flyers") of Papantla, originally from the eastern coastal state of Veracruz, now perform their 1,500-year-old, death-defying aerial dance along the malecon.

Don't be alarmed if you board a bus and are met by a singing troubadour, a juggler or even a poetry-reading orator. If you like the performance, leave them a peso or two; if not, well, chances are your stop will come up soon enough.

SEE & DO

Sightseeing

As a resort town, Puerto Vallarta's best offerings are recreation, restaurants and seaside relaxation rather than pure sightseeing. The city is expanding rapidly, and in the rush to add more malls and shopping venues, much of the quaint old town and the Zona Romantica have been made over. However, there are a few sites and areas worth visiting.

Start with a walk along the oceanfront promenade known as the malecon. It's the ideal place for people-watching and viewing the sunset, and it also has myriad fascinating sculptural installations, some wonderfully whimsical and created by local artists. Shops, restaurants, bars, nightclubs and cafes are chock-a-block along this strip. As crowded as it can be, there's nothing else like it in Mexico, and it is an absolute must to take in—especially Sunday evenings, when local families traditionally enjoy it on their one day of rest (a six-day work week is common there).

Strolling through El Centro can also be a treat. The most obvious architectural landmark is the city's main church, La Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. After you've admired the interior, climb any of the staircases behind the church: You'll be rewarded with delightful views of the church, the city and the bay. Two other good spots for a stroll are the quiet Isla Rio Cuale, a small island in the river with good restaurants and quiet nooks for resting, and the lively South Side neighborhood of Conchas Chinas just inland from Los Muertos Beach. The quieter cobblestoned streets there provide a glimpse of the small fishing village Vallarta once was.

The old town in general, and especially the Zona Romantica, also affords some wonderful sights and architectural gems, often hidden away on a side street or resting comfortably alongside a modern edifice. Strolling through the side streets is best done in the early morning to midafternoon, when you're less likely to encounter the hordes of tourists that make Vallarta into a very different place at night.

For Tennessee Williams buffs and travelers smitten with Hollywood history and lore, a minor industry has sprung up around the relics of The Night of the Iguana, which was filmed in Puerto Vallarta in 1963. The Mismaloya area, where much of the location work was shot, continues to draw visitors to its pretty cove dotted with palapa restaurants. Nowadays, a group of privately owned condominiums dominates the beachfront just north of Mismaloya. Some of the original set (vastly reconstructed) initially was maintained by the complex and used for a 50th-anniversary celebration. Some remains of these can be seen from a pathway, but there is no longer any access to them.

Some of the most beautiful scenery along Banderas Bay is just south of the city, where tropical rain-forest-blanketed mountains actually reach the shores of sandy beaches and the Los Arcos rock formations add a dramatic touch. Day trips by taxi or bus to Mismaloya or by water taxi to Yelapa will reward you with wonderful views and pleasant beaches. If boutiques, galleries, cafes and restaurants are more your thing, you'll find plenty from El Centro to Marina Vallarta—a yacht marina and development north of the Zona Hotelera.

With Mexico's national liquor originating in Jalisco, tequila tastings are ubiquitous in Puerto Vallarta, with dozens of labels offered. It is important to note, however, that many shops that call you in off the street to sample their tequila are tied into time-share sales. Buyer beware.

The scenery gets more spectacular the farther north or south you go from the hotel zone. Small fishing villages such as La Cruz de Huanacaxtle and San Francisco (better known as San Pancho) to the north in Nayarit are beautiful vestiges of what the area was like only a few years ago, and often tours can be arranged to see part of this region, which was once rarely visited by anyone but ecotourists. Punta de Mita and Sayulita are more upscale, with resorts and expensive villas outnumbering taco stands and cantinas. The southern Costalegre is sparsely populated as well, with long stretches of empty beaches and a few exclusive resorts favored by celebrities and business titans.

Casinos

The few remaining casinos in Puerto Vallarta feature slot machines and other electronic gambling machines, but no table games except occasional poker. All transactions are in Mexican pesos. If you are looking for an experience similar to what you'd find in a U.S. or Canadian casino, those in Vallarta will disappoint. Grand Odyssey Casino Ave. Los Cocoteros 55, Centro One of the only remaining casinos, Grand Odyssey is located in Nuevo Vallarta. Daily 9 am-4 pm. Ave. Los Cocoteros 55, Centro Empresarial, Empresarial Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-182-9209. Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 63735 http://www.grandodysseycasino.com.mx. Phone: 322-182-9209 http://www.grandodysseycasino.com.mx

Vallarta Casino Ave. Francisco Medina Ascensio 2870 The only other remaining casino in the area; this one is located in Puerto Vallarta. Daily 10 am-4 pm. Ave. Francisco Medina Ascensio Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 2870, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-114-0894. Phone: 322-114-0894

La Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe Calle Hidalgo 370, Centro The Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, with its distinctive filigree crown of angels, is Puerto Vallarta's standout landmark. Inside, opulent Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 examples of religious art fill the walls. A Mass in English takes place Phone: 322-222-1326 Saturday at 5 pm, and a bilingual Mass is held Sunday at 10 am. Daily 7 am-9 pm. Shorts and sleeveless T-shirts are prohibited inside the church. Calle Hidalgo 370, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222- 1326. Plaza Principal Avenida Independencia, Centro The city's main square is bordered on one side by Palacio Municipal (city hall) and on the other by banks and shops. Plaza Principal is Puerto Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico Vallarta's main hub and the spot where holidays are celebrated. The city hall's exterior has a colorful mural of the city painted by Manuel Lepe, a Puerto Vallarta native and one of Mexico's most famous artists. Avenida Independencia, Centro, Puerto Vallarta.

Casa Manuel Lepe Museum Jacarandas 485 This colorful gallery features many pieces from artist Manuel Lepe. Diverse works include ceramics, miniature sculptures, papier-mache Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 designs, jewelry, boats and posters of his famous oil canvas creations Phone: 322-222-4255 (available for purchase). Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm. Free. https://www.mexicoescultura.com/recinto/56080/casa- Jacarandas 485 (Emiliano Zapata), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222- museo-manuel-lepe 4255. https://www.mexicoescultura.com/recinto/56080/casa-museo- manuel-lepe.

Maritime History Museum Malecon This museum contains relics, documents, paintings, scale models, maps Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico and navigation instruments, documenting the organization, function and expeditions of the Mexican Navy through the years. Watch for Phone: 322-223-5357 exhibitions of the work of local artists. A cafeteria is on the upper level. http://www.semar.gob.mx/s/armada- Tuesday-Friday 9:30 am-7:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-7:30 mexico/museos-navales.html pm. Malecon (next to the Los Arcos outdoor amphitheater; Centro), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-5357. http://www.semar.gob.mx/s/armada-mexico/museos-navales.html.

Museo Rio Cuale Rio Cuale, Centro This is a small archaeology museum with pre-Hispanic and native exhibits culled from the surrounding region. Be aware that the caretaker Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 may close the museum if he has to run an errand. Tuesday-Friday 9 Phone: 135-0762 am-6 pm. Free. Rio Cuale, Centro (west end), Puerto Vallarta. Phone http://www.inah.gob.mx/index.php? 135-0762. http://www.inah.gob.mx/index.php? option=com_content&view=article&id=5813 option=com_content&view=article&id=5813.

Bountiful nature is everywhere you look in and around Puerto Vallarta: manta rays skim the bay as frigate birds dive for dinner; crocodiles, anteaters and armadillos waddle along golf courses; parrots and macaws chatter above treetops; and prehistoric-looking iguanas hang on low branches over rivers. Vallarta Botanical Gardens Carretera Barra de Navidad Km 24 A half-hour bus ride south of Puerto Vallarta, this 20-acre/9-hectare Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48447 botanical garden boasts plants indigenous to western Mexico as well as exotic species from around the world. Maintains an active calendar of Phone: 322-223-6182 tours, workshops and events, such as the Annual Birding Festival, and is http://www.vbgardens.org actively involved in conservation of both flora and fauna. An on-site restaurant offers pizza, salads and cocktails, along with sweeping views. Daily 9 am-6 pm. M$100 adults. Carretera Barra de Navidad Km 24, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-6182. http://www.vbgardens.org.

Gay Zona Romantica Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico Puerto Vallarta is the most gay-friendly beach resort area in Latin America, and the Zona Romantica's restaurants, stores, inns and clubs cater to a LGBT crowd. Sapphire Ocean Club and Mantamar Beach Club on Los Muertos Beach actively court this clientele as well.

Gringo Gulch Carranza Street U.S. actress Elizabeth Taylor helped put this artsy, charming neighborhood on the map back in the early 1960s. Taylor and Richard Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 Burton arrived in the city for his filming of the sultry The Night of the Iguana. Already in love with each other, they soon fell in love with Puerto Vallarta, as well. The neighborhood is right by the Cuale River and a steep hill known as El Cerro behind the town church, just a short walk from shops, galleries and bistros, as well as the malecon. The most famous site in Gringo Gulch (that is, until it was torn down to make way for a fancy bed-and-breakfast) was Casa Kimberley, the home that Burton bought for Taylor during their romance. Later, when the couple married, they bought the house across the street and built the Love Bridge (based on Venice's Bridge of Sighs) to connect the two homes. Thankfully, this pretty pink bridge still stands and the home is now another inn from the same owner as beautiful Casa San Angel nearby. Carranza Street (at Zaragoza Street, downtown), Puerto Vallarta.

Marina District Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico The area around the yacht marina is filled with residential homes surrounding the golf course, as well as a few resorts, and the whole area is served by sidewalks. It's a pleasant, tree-lined area for strolling, and many local businesses cater to those arriving on foot or bicycle.

Aquaventuras Carretera Tepic, Km 155 This fully equipped water park features several waterslides, a slow- moving river and free aquatic shows featuring dolphins and sea lions. Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 63732 Dolphin encounters are offered for an additional fee. A restaurant and http://www.aquaventuras.com bar are on-site. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Park entrance M$479 adults. Carretera Tepic, Km 155 (just before the entrance to Nuevo Vallarta), Puerto Vallarta. Toll-free 866-393-5158 (in the U.S.) or 800-581-1312 (in Mexico). http://www.aquaventuras.com.

El Salado Estuary Avenida Francisco Medina Ascencio An ecological preserve in town offers two-hour guided tours through a mangrove swamp home to crocodiles, herons, and rare flora and fauna. Km 3.5 Experts discuss the nature of mangroves and the vital role they play in a Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 healthy coastal ecosystem; they are happy to answer questions. Funds Phone: 322-226-2878 raised from tours help conserve this protected area and allow research http://www.esterodelsalado.org to continue. Tuesday-Friday 9-3 pm, Saturday 11am-1pm. M$300 adults. Avenida Francisco Medina Ascencio Km 3.5 (Marina Vallarta), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-226-2878 or 322-226-2879. http://www.esterodelsalado.org.

Puerto Vallarta Zoo Camino a El Eden 700 With some 700 animals and 120 species, the zoo makes for a great family outing. Snacks and refreshments are available at the entrance. Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48294 Daily 10 am-6 pm. M$192 adults. Camino a El Eden 700 (Mismaloya), Phone: 322-228-0955 Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-228-0955 and 322-228-0501. https://www.facebook.com/vallartazooo https://www.facebook.com/vallartazooo.

Recreation

Most active people will find that Puerto Vallarta has enough to occupy them during their stay. The beaches provide the most obvious recreation options—the clear and generally calm waters are very good for swimming, parasailing, Jet-Skiing (where permitted) and kayaking—and watersports equipment can be rented from vendors right on the sand.

The scene beneath the water—though not as spectacular as at Mexico's Caribbean resorts—can also be impressive. At Los Arcos and the Islas Marietas you can dive or snorkel amid reefs and grottoes that are home to an array of fish. Aspiring Ernest Hemingways can charter deep-sea-fishing vessels and spend the day hunting large marlin and sailfish. Landlubbers should not feel left out. There are numerous world-class 18-hole golf courses in the area, and tennis courts are abundant, plus some tour groups offer adventure activities in the mountains hugging the city.

Beaches

The bay waters are generally calm, making Puerto Vallarta's beaches a boon for swimmers and a bane for surfers. Some of the beaches, however, have steep slopes, making for strong breakers close to the beach.

Playa los Muertos is the most popular beach in Puerto Vallarta proper. It's lined with palapas and hotels, and it is usually crowded with local families, vacationers and vendors of all stripes. The blue-and-green chairs near the southern end of the beach are popular with the gay crowd, though there are beach clubs catering to straight couples as well.

North of El Centro, stretching all the way to the marina, are the Zona Hotelera beaches. Except during spring break weeks, these well-kept areas are often uncrowded, and the water tends to be calm and clear except in rainy season. North of the marina is the Nuevo Vallarta area; these are the best white-sand beaches near the city, lined with all-inclusive resorts for all budgets.

The beaches north of the airport are more rustic, although they offer better opportunities for surfers, especially as one gets farther north toward Punta Mita. Heading south from the center are the beaches of Mismaloya and several resorts that sit on their own coves, which offer the calmest waters for swimming south of Puerto Vallarta.

Aequilibrium Bikes Ave. Francisco Villa 821-B Aeq Rides is part of the bike shop Aequilibrium Bikes. Guided rides range from a 90-minute "flat and relaxing" ride to a three-and-a-half Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 49328 hour "strenuous" ride, with all-day options available for experienced Phone: 322-225-8078 road cyclists. Guided rides include bike rental, helmet, bottled water and https://www.facebook.com/aeqplus a granola bar. Ave. Francisco Villa 821-B, Zona Hotelera, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-225-8078 or 322-192-0401. https://www.facebook.com/aeqplus.

Eco Ride Miramar 382, Centro This company's bilingual guides have years of experience in the hills. It Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 offers tours of San Pedro, El Salto, Vallejo and Yelapa, among other areas. Also hiking tours to Las Animas and combination bike-and-hike Phone: 322-222-7912 tours. Personalized excursions provide scenic examinations deep into http://www.ecoridemex.com the jungles. Miramar 382, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-7912 or cell 322-118-8165. http://www.ecoridemex.com.

Birding in Mexico Calle Sol 591, Villasol Take guided tours to shoreline or inland bird areas with qualified Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48315 bilingual ornithologist Alexandro Martinez. Binoculars and bird books provided. Overnight trips are also available. Calle Sol 591, Villasol, Phone: 322-222-7407 Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-7407 or 322-221-0467. http://www.birdinginmexico.com http://www.birdinginmexico.com.

Ecotours de Mexico Calle Proa 20, Marina del Rey Bird specialists guide tours to inland, marshland and ocean areas to Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48335 observe the winged beauties. M$99. Calle Proa 20, Marina del Rey, Marina Vallarta, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-3130, 322-209-2195 or Phone: 322-223-3130, 322-222-6606. http://www.ecotoursvallarta.com. http://www.ecotoursvallarta.com The waters of Puerto Vallarta have a number of popular game fish, ranging from large catches such as marlin and sailfish to other specimens such as tuna, dorado, mahimahi, sea bass and red snapper.

Local captains with small boats—suitable for catching only the smaller types of fish—rent their services from the beaches along the Zona Hotelera. If you're up for a more involved, rigorous pursuit of serious sport fish, you can charter a boat at Marina Vallarta, north of downtown, or through your hotel.

PV Sportfishing Nuevo Vallarta Marina Reputable and well-equipped with watercraft for every purpose, this is a Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico seasoned outfit with an experienced staff. Fishing expeditions offer options for individuals and groups. As well as fishing, it can organize Phone: 322-120-9696 sunset sojourns, whale-watching tours and half- and full-day sails to https://www.puertovallartafish.com secret beaches. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Nuevo Vallarta Marina, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-120-9696. https://www.puertovallartafish.com.

Puerto Vallarta has come into its own as a world-class golf destination and competes with Los Cabos for golf vacationers. The Vallarta area is home to several respected courses, with a couple of additional courses in nearby coastal towns. Flamingos Golf Club Carretera Tepic, Km 145 This 19,685-ft/6,000-m course was carved out of the encroaching jungle Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico in 1978 by noted course architect Percy Clifford. There's an inexpensive shuttle service from town, starting at the Sheraton Hotel and heading Phone: 322-296-5006 north (call the club for details). Carretera Tepic, Km 145 (8 mi/13 km http://www.flamingosgolf.com.mx north of the airport), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-296-5006. http://www.flamingosgolf.com.mx.

Four Seasons Punta Mita Golf Course Punta Mita, Bahia de Banderas This Jack Nicklaus-designed double course is set within vistas of white- Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 63734 sand beaches and the surrounding Sierra Madre mountains. Spread across an enormous 200 acres/81 hectares, it takes full advantage of its Phone: 329-291-6000 location. The Pacific Ocean or Banderas Bay border eight holes on the http://www.fourseasons.com/puntamita/golf.html Pacifico course, and one truly unique hole is located on a natural island in the ocean. The second Bahia Golf Course offers more undulating fairways and greens. In either case, however, the Punta Mita peninsula's tropical landscape of palms and flowering trees adds to the pleasure of these challenging courses. Only open to resort guests (Four Seasons and St. Regis), homeowners and their day guests. Punta Mita, Bahia de Banderas, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 329-291-6000. Toll-free 866-280-9490. http://www.fourseasons.com/puntamita/golf.html.

Marina Vallarta Joe Finger Signature Course Paseo de la Marina 430 Owned by ClubCorp, this attractive course is in the heart of the Marina Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48354 Vallarta zone near hotels, shops and restaurants, with a surprising amount of resident wildlife. Paseo de la Marina 430, Marina Vallarta, Phone: 221-0545 Puerto Vallarta. Phone 221-0545 or 221-0073. http://www.clubcorp.com/Clubs/Marina- http://www.clubcorp.com/Clubs/Marina-Vallarta-Club-de-Golf. Vallarta-Club-de-Golf

Vista Vallarta Jack Nicklaus and Tom Weiskopf Signature Courses Circuito Universidad 653, El Pitillal Both of these ClubCorp-owned courses are about 3 mi/5 km inland from Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48290 Marina Vallarta and afford views of the bay, the marina and the Sierra Madre Mountains. Circuito Universidad 653, El Pitillal, Puerto Vallarta. Phone: 322-290-0030 Phone 322-290-0030. http://www.clubcorp.com/Clubs/Vista-Vallarta- http://www.clubcorp.com/Clubs/Vista- Club-de-Golf. Vallarta-Club-de-Golf The malecon is ideal for early-morning jogging only; after 9 am, it's pedestrians everywhere. Many hotels along the beach have short jogging trails. You can run on the beaches, but they're often crowded and not very level. The marina and Nuevo Vallarta hotel zones have wide sidewalks and bike paths. The nearby mountains have a half-dozen marked hiking trails, but it's best for inexperienced or solo hikers to join a group hiking tour that hits waterfalls and swimming holes. Check with tour operators at any hotel for details. Estadio Agustin Contreras Flores Avenida Francisco Medina Ascencio For serious running, try the track at Estadio Agustin Contreras Flores. A Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico M$25 photo membership is required after your first visit. Avenida Francisco Medina Ascencio (across from the Sheraton Hotel), Puerto Phone: 222-0490 Vallarta. Phone 222-0490.

Horseback riding and ATVs are prohibited on the beaches in Puerto Vallarta, but there are plenty of trails in the foothills of the mountains. For those who wish to ride on the beaches, try Bucerias, about 30 minutes north. Rancho El Charro This riding camp is the oldest in Puerto Vallarta and offers three- to Playa Grande eight-hour rides to rivers and waterfalls. Guides will pick you up at designated points in town and return you to your hotel. Daily. First ride Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico starts at 10 am, last ride ends at 6 pm. US$70-$135. Playa Grande, Phone: 322-224-0114 Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-224-0114. http://www.ranchoelcharro.com. http://www.ranchoelcharro.com The Puerto Vallarta area has two good spots for snorkeling and diving. The waters around Los Arcos— offshore rock formations just south of downtown—are a protected ecological preserve. Harder to access, but potentially more rewarding, are the waters near the Islas Marietas, which lie at the northern entrance to Banderas Bay, 6 mi/10 km off the point of Punta de Mita, where coral reefs and giant manta rays are common. Other good diving spots outside of the bay, such as El Moro, have caverns and are popular with expert divers, including night dives. Chico's Dive Shop 772 Diaz Ordaz Open since 1968, Chico's is one of the best-known and most trusted Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 dive shops on the Pacific coast of Mexico. It offers a variety of dives throughout the Bay of Banderas. Certification classes available. Daily 8 Phone: 322-222-1895 am-10 pm. 772 Diaz Ordaz (Centro), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222- http://bestoursonsale.com 1895. http://bestoursonsale.com.

There are tennis courts and pros at most of the luxury hotels. This is the best option for most players as public courts are nonexistent anywhere near the hotel zones. Canto del Sol Tennis Club Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico For the best tennis facilities for guests or nonguests, Canto del Sol http://www.cantovallarta.com beach and tennis club is the top spot and is where most local tournaments are held. There are four outdoor clay courts and four covered Laykold courts. Daily 7 am-10 pm. Public rates are M$150 per hour, lessons available. http://www.cantovallarta.com.

There are seven canopy tours in Vallarta, with varying activities and prices. Ask at your hotel for convenient hotel or downtown pickup.

Do not arrange any tours with touts at the airport. These are inevitably fly-by-night operations, and you will be the worse for it.

Canopy River 1989 Francisco Medina Ascencio This multisport and entertainment area offers 12 ziplines, ATV rides, Blvd., Local H2-A horseback riding, tubing and even a cowboy lasso show. There's also a tequila distillery and restaurant on-site. 1989 Francisco Medina Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48310 Ascencio Blvd., Local H2-A, Zona Hotelera, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322- Phone: 322-222-0560 222-0560 and 322-222-0860. http://www.canopyriver.com. http://www.canopyriver.com

Canopy Tours de Los Veranos Blvd. Francisco Medina Ascencio Swing over the jungle south of Puerto Vallarta on this four-and-a-half to 2735 five-hour tour. There are more than 2 mi/3 km of cable in a series of 14 ziplines, many over 1,100 ft/341 m long and some over 328 ft/100 m Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48333 high. This is the first canopy-tour outfit in Mexico. For children older than Phone: 322-223-0504 age 6 and adults in fairly good physical condition. You can also spend http://www.canopytours-vallarta.com the day at Los Veranos enjoying natural waterslides, the Animal House, a bar, restaurant, hiking trails, swimming hole and beach. Tours are Monday-Friday 8 am-8 pm, Saturday 9 am-5 pm. M$1,344 adults. Blvd. Francisco Medina Ascencio 2735, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-0504 or 322-223-0649. http://www.canopytours-vallarta.com.

Nightlife Tourists flock to Puerto Vallarta for its gorgeous beaches and cobblestoned streets, but when the stars come out, this resort town turns into one of the liveliest nightspots in Mexico. It has all of the bars and nightclubs one would expect—or demand—of a tropical resort city, ranging from the truly awful to the truly chic.

A word to the wise: Especially in a party town like Vallarta, choose your destination wisely and ahead of time. Never allow a taxi to take you to a "recommended" spot, and always know exactly where you're going before you set foot out the door.

If you're going to a disco, be prepared to dress up and arrive late. Most of the top clubs have a dress code, and locals like to get dolled up for a night on the town. There is an enormous number of bars along the malecon, many of which stay open until the early hours of the morning. As for live music, lesser-known places can offer wonderful experiences. Puerto Vallarta also attracts many gay tourists, and a number of gay bars have sprung up in the South Side in recent years.

Be sure to ask before you enter a bar what the drinks will cost you, or you may be in for a rude shock when it comes time to pay the bill. Also, unless you want to pay M$200-$300 for the privilege, do not permit the scantily clad "shot girls" to pour your drinks for you.

Nightlife generally gets going around 11 pm and continues till 5 am.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs

Apaches Martini Bar 439 Olas Altas, South Side This vibrant cocktail and martini bar caters to both the gay and straight crowds, providing a casual and celebratory ambience popular with Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 tourists and locals. The service is friendly, and the sidewalk setting Phone: 322-222-4004 attracts a festive crowd. Monday-Saturday 5 pm-2 am. 439 Olas Altas, https://www.facebook.com/apachespuertovallarta South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-4004. https://www.facebook.com/apachespuertovallarta.

El Torito Venustiano Carraza 243, Viejo This sports bar and nightclub, established in 1982, has some decent Vallarta food and occasional live music. Features professional sports games galore on satellite TVs throughout the bar. Sunday-Thursday 11 am- Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 midnight, Friday and Saturday 11 am-2 am. Minimum M$150 bar and Phone: 322-222-3784 food tab when major sports games are on. Venustiano Carraza 243, http://torito.com Viejo Vallarta, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-3784. http://torito.com.

Garbo Bar Vallarta Pulpito 142 A cozy spot popular with local professionals, this classy piano bar is Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 conducive to conversation and meeting new friends over a wide range of cool drinks—the martinis there are the best. Daily 6 pm-2 am. Pulpito Phone: 322-223-5753 142 (South Side), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-5753. https://m.facebook.com/Garbo-Bar- https://m.facebook.com/Garbo-Bar-Vallarta-184997654855856. Vallarta-184997654855856

La Bodeguita del Medio Paseo Diaz Ordaz 858, Centro Part of a growing international chain of restaurant, bar and dance clubs Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 that originated in Cuba. The ambience, music and drinks are top-rated, but the food gets mixed reviews. "La B del M" offers a view of the Phone: 322-223-1585 malecon, delicious (and expensive) mojitos and live salsa daily that http://www.labodeguitadelmedio.com.mx keeps the crowd moving. The tropical Cuban music usually gets going around 10 pm. A popular hangout for local dancers, the heated dancing may not begin until after 1 am when they arrive after work. Daily 11 am- 4 am. Paseo Diaz Ordaz 858, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223- 1585. http://www.labodeguitadelmedio.com.mx.

Mandala Paseo Diaz Ordaz 633, Centro This popular dance spot is sleek and upscale. DJs spin pop hits as well Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico as electronic dance music. Daily 10 pm-6 am. Paseo Diaz Ordaz 633, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 998-883-3333. Phone: 998-883-3333 https://grupomandala.com.mx/vallarta. https://grupomandala.com.mx/vallarta Paco's Ranch Ignacio L. Vallarta 278 One of the most popular gay bars and discos in town. Check out the Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 rooftop bar and live shows. Daily 10 pm-6 am. Live shows Tuesday 1:30 am and Wednesday-Sunday 12:30 and 3 am. Ignacio L. Vallarta 278, Phone: 322-222-1899 Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-1899. http://www.pacosranchpv.com. http://www.pacosranchpv.com

The Zoo Paseo Diaz Ordaz 630, Centro The wild crowd is outdone only by the even wilder decorations, which Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 include numerous large papier-mache animals (hippos, lions and zebras) that enliven the room. Every zoo has its cages, and this one is Phone: 322-222-4945 no different: Partiers can and do dance in them all night long. Very much http://zoodancebar.com a dance crowd; don't expect to be heard over the music. Daily noon-6 am. Paseo Diaz Ordaz 630, Centro (near Vallartacrawl), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-4945. http://zoodancebar.com.

Twisted Palms Rooftop Lounge Calle Ignacio L. Vallarta 228, Emiliano Vallarta's favorite sophisticated nightclub, it is equal parts bar and Zapata supper club, and occasionally a subdued live music venue as well. It features upscale yet unpretentious open-air rooftop seating in the Old Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico Town and serves great drinks at reasonable prices (a rarity in Vallarta). Phone: 322-223-8019 This Canadian-owned club has legions of devoted expats and returning https://www.facebook.com/twistedpalms fans who swear it's the friendliest place in town. Half-priced margaritas on Monday. Daily 6 pm-midnight. Calle Ignacio L. Vallarta 228, Emiliano Zapata, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-8019. https://www.facebook.com/twistedpalms.

Vallartacrawl 640 Paseo Diaz Ordaz, Centro It was only a question of time until a motorized pub crawl made its way Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico to Vallarta. Wildly popular and definitely for the under-35 crowd, this excursion into "personalized nightlife" includes a five-hour, all-you-can- Phone: 984-165-0699 drink open bar, VIP entrances, reserved tables, and a party guide to http://www.vallartacrawl.com escort you on this bar crawl that includes three of Vallarta's most popular bars and clubs. Very much catering to North American tourists, round-trip transportation to your resort is provided. Daily. 640 Paseo Diaz Ordaz, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 984-165-0699. http://www.vallartacrawl.com.

Live music has become quite popular in Puerto Vallarta. Numerous venues offer shows on weekends, and more than a few restaurants offer live music, as well. Ask your concierge for suggestions. J&B Salsa Club Francisco Medina Ascencio 2043 Somewhat less frequented by tourists than other Puerto Vallarta clubs, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48333 J&B has an authentic regional flair with salsa and other Latin music, as well as dancing. For travelers with two or more left feet, the club holds Phone: 322-224-4616 salsa dance classes Thursday and Friday at 8 and 9 pm. Live music https://zamittizj8.wixsite.com/jbdancingclub starts around midnight Friday and Saturday. Monday-Saturday 7 pm- 4:30 am. Francisco Medina Ascencio 2043, Zona Hotelera, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-224-4616. https://zamittizj8.wixsite.com/jbdancingclub.

Performing Arts

The beach, the main plaza and the malecon are the city's main stages for performing arts. (One could also add the city's buses, if impromptu amateur renditions of various art forms are included.) Stop at the tourist information office at city hall for program information. Theater English-language theater has come of age in Puerto Vallarta, with an abundance of amateur and professional performances, especially November-April. Venues with regular Spanish-language performances include Cuale Cultural Center on Isla Rio Cuale (phone 322-223-0095) and Cecatur Theater, also known as the Agustin Flores Contreras Cultural Auditorium, at the intersection of Calles Zaragoza and Matamoros, Centro (phone 322-221-5157). Teatro Vallarta Uruguay 184 This modernistic 960-seat theater presents theater, dance, music and Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48350 comedy shows from around the world. The Russian Ballet, Hungarian Symphony Orchestra and the Metropolitan Opera's Live in HD Phone: 322-222-4525 broadcasts are among them. The weekly folklore dance show makes for http://www.teatrovallarta.com a fun evening, combining Mexican folklore dance with a twist of Las Vegas. Uruguay 184 (Centro), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-4525 or 322-225-5381. http://www.teatrovallarta.com.

The Boutique Theatre and Performing Arts Center 287 Basilio Badillo and Naranjo This Canadian-run, versatile 110-seat performance space is an English- Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico language theater venue and a boon to local talent, who study, practice and perform there, along with professional actors from New York and Phone: 322-728-6878 elsewhere. It is also a supper club of sorts for many performances. Most http://www.boutiquetheatre.org performances at 8 pm. 287 Basilio Badillo and Naranjo (South Side), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-728-6878. http://www.boutiquetheatre.org.

The Palm Cabaret and Bar Olas Altas 508 This intimate venue seating 70 provides an eclectic range of Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48399 entertainment, from The Rocky Horror Picture Show and drag queens to comedian Leslie Jordan and local mariachi singer Jorge Acosta. Phone: 322-222-0200 November-April, with shows at 8 and 10 pm most nights. Box office daily https://thepalmcabaret.com 11 am-11 pm. Olas Altas 508 (South Side), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322- 222-0200. https://thepalmcabaret.com.

Viva Tequila Uruguay 184, 5 de Diciembre The Teatro Vallarta building, which used to host traveling performances, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48350 is now home to a tequila-based flashy show that combines tastings and background history with a performance. With a little mariachi and charro Phone: 322-222-4525 thrown in as well, this is a tourist spectacle meant to show off the http://www.vivatequila.mx cultural pillars of Jalisco. Runs Thursday-Saturday with complimentary shuttle transportation. Uruguay 184, 5 de Diciembre, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-4525. http://www.vivatequila.mx.

Spectator Sports

Semiprofessional and amateur baseball and soccer teams play every Saturday year-round at the Sports Stadium, located across from the Sheraton Hotel.

Though there is no definite schedule for bullfights, they generally take place November-April Wednesday at 5 pm at the La Paloma Plaza de Toros, which is next to Marina Vallarta and walking distance from the cruise terminal. Phone 221-0414.

The Banderas Bay Regatta is in March (phone 297-2222; http://www.banderasbayregatta.com). A half marathon is held in early November (phone 229-1839; http://www.maratonvallarta.com).

Sporting events worth attending include the annual Sports Classic, usually the last weekend of May; pro beach volleyball; bowling; tennis; 5K race; golf tournaments, both national and international; several marathons during the year; basketball; soccer; and fishing and sailing competitions, each with large pots for the winners.

Although there are few local handicrafts for sale in Puerto Vallarta, you'll find all types of crafts from other parts of Mexico—often at a slightly inflated price. Huichol (or Wixarika) Indians from Nayarit, dressed in hand-embroidered costumes, can be found selling their extraordinary beaded and woven crafts in the main tourist areas. Throughout March, look for the Huichol selling their original work at the Plaza Caracol in a special community program that allows them to sell to the public without an intermediary or middleman.

High-quality leather boots and jackets are good buys. Silver jewelry from Taxco is also abundant (make sure it is stamped .925— this indicates that it is 925 parts per thousand, the Mexican standard for sterling silver). Quality woolen blankets and Huichol crafts are also available, but be wary of imitations and shops run by time-share salespeople.

Naturally there is a wide selection of tequila in Jalisco, but scan prices in the supermarket first to avoid being overcharged in a shop: Prices for most brands are a third to half less than they are in the U.S. or at duty-free shops.

Bargaining is expected in the markets and with beach vendors, who accept U.S. dollars in addition to Mexican pesos, but prices in stores are fixed. Do not expect to buy quality silver on the beach or in the streets.

Shopping Hours: Daily 10 am-8 pm. Some stores may close 2-4 pm for lunch or siesta, although that practice is becoming less common. Stores catering to tourists are likely to stay open until 10 pm.

Antique Stores

Banderas Bay Trading Company Annex Constitucion 319-A, Emiliano Zapata This store features antiques, rustic furniture and collectibles from Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 Mexico, Indonesia and Central America in a luxury warehouse setting. Handmade items are emphasized. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Phone: 223-9871 Constitucion 319-A, Emiliano Zapata, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-9871. http://www.banderasbaytradingcompany.com http://www.banderasbaytradingcompany.com.

Page in the Sun Lazaro Cardenas 169 This is the oldest English-language bookstore in Puerto Vallarta and Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48389 includes a delightful cafe. In addition to shelf upon shelf of used and new books, it features occasional musical performances, poetry and Phone: 322-222-3608 prose readings, and writers' workshops. Monday-Saturday 7 am-11 pm. http://www.apageinthesun.com Lazaro Cardenas 169, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-3608. http://www.apageinthesun.com.

Lans Calle Juarez 867 This beautiful, modern, air-conditioned department store is centrally Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 located in downtown Vallarta and offers spacious parking next door. You'll find familiar name brands such as Dockers, Adidas and Levis, as Phone: 322-226-9100 well as some lesser-known brands that are popular regionally. There is http://www.lans.com.mx a second location at the Plaza Caracol. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-7 pm. Calle Juarez 867, Zona Hotelera, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-226-9100. http://www.lans.com.mx.

Liverpool Ave. Francisco Medina Ascencio 2920 A national department store chain, Liverpool is definitely upscale, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48338 offering clothing, housewares, cutlery, shoes, jewelry, watches, toys and pretty much anything a family may need. It's located in the lovely air- Phone: 322-226-2400 conditioned Galerias Vallarta just across the main highway from the http://www.liverpool.com.mx/tienda cruise terminal, north of Sam's Club and Walmart. Daily 11 am-9 pm. Ave. Francisco Medina Ascencio 2920 (Zona Maritima), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-226-2400. http://www.liverpool.com.mx/tienda.

Puerto Vallarta has more art galleries than any other cities in Mexico outside of the capital and Guadalajara. Many are considered world class. Prices in the better galleries are what one would find in the U.S. and Europe, but some of the smaller ones (and there are many of these) showcase some beautiful local art that is available at reasonable prices.

Major exhibitions and showings take place October-May. A free Art Walk map is available to tour the local galleries every Wednesday 6-10 pm. Throughout the year, some artists even give classes at their studios. Many galleries have reduced hours during the summer. http://www.vallartaartwalk.com.

Galeria Corsica Guadalupe Sanchez 756, Centro Recognized names in the Mexican art world are among the selections at Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico this gallery, which has become a standby for international collectors. Phone: 322-223-1821 Monday-Saturday 11 am-10 pm. Guadalupe Sanchez 756, Centro, http://www.galeriacorsica.com Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-1821. http://www.galeriacorsica.com.

Galeria de Arte Popular Mexicano Libertad 285, Centro Operated by charming Estella Camacho, this fine gallery features some Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico of the best folk artists, such as the amazing ceramic figures of La Catrina, or Lady Death, as well as other figures and hand-thrown Phone: 322-222-6960 pottery. Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm. Libertad 285, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-6960.

Galeria de Ollas Corona 176 The fine pottery of artists from the world-renowned village of Mata Ortiz Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 in Chihuahua is based on pre-Hispanic designs of the Paquime Indians. Daily 9 am-7 pm. Corona 176, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-221-0467 or Phone: 322-221-0467 322-222-7407. https://galeriadeollas.com. https://galeriadeollas.com

Galeria Omar Alonso Calle Leona Vicario 249, Centro Fine-art photographs and works by contemporary Mexican artists grace Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 the walls of this gallery. Monday-Friday 11 am-2 pm and 5-9 pm. Calle Leona Vicario 249, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-5587. Phone: 322-222-5587 http://galeriaomaralonso.com. http://galeriaomaralonso.com

Galeria Pacifico Aldama 174, Centro Expect contemporary paintings and sculpture from masters. Gary Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 Thompson of Galeria Pacifico and Sandra Cesca of Learn Vallarta offer free guided tours of the marvelous sculptures along the malecon. Phone: 322-222-1982 Groups meet Tuesday at 9 am and 6:30 pm at the Millenium sculpture http://www.galeriapacifico.com at the north end of the boardwalk. Schedule varies seasonally. Monday- Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Aldama 174, Centro (second floor), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-1982. http://www.galeriapacifico.com.

Galeria Uno Calle Morelos 561, Centro The oldest gallery in town offers contemporary art from internationally Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico known artists, including Alejandro Colunga, Oscar Zamarripa and Sergio Galvan. Monday-Saturday 9 am-8 pm and by appointment. Calle Phone: 322-222-0908 Morelos 561, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-0908. https://www.galeriauno.mx https://www.galeriauno.mx.

Galleria Dante Calle Basilio Badillo 269, South Side The vast collection of sculpture in different media includes works by Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 Gabriel Colunga and Guillermo Gomez, as well as paintings by local favorites. It's the largest and most eclectic fine art gallery in Puerto Phone: 322-222-2477 Vallarta, exhibiting the works of more than 50 artists. A rooftop wine and http://www.galleriadante.com tapas bar, called Di Vino Dante, is housed in the same, hacienda-styled villa. Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm October-August. Calle Basilio Badillo 269, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-2477. http://www.galleriadante.com.

Sergio Bustamante Juarez 275 This native son of Mexico originally sold whimsical, papier-mache animal Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico sculptures and has long since branched out into larger sculptures in bronze or ceramic, as well as fine jewelry. Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 Phone: 322-223-1405 pm, Sunday 11 am-6 pm. Juarez 275, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223- http://www.coleccionsergiobustamante.com.mx 1405. http://www.coleccionsergiobustamante.com.mx.

The Loft Calle Corona 176-A, Centro The Loft features some of the most exquisite choices in the creative arts. Operated by John Strawn, an inveterate specialist in the art world. Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 Wednesday-Saturday 11 am-3 pm in summer; Monday-Friday 11 am-6 Phone: 322-222-6353 pm, Saturday 11 am-3 pm in winter. Calle Corona 176-A, Centro, Puerto http://www.theloftgaleria.com Vallarta. Phone 322-222-6353. http://www.theloftgaleria.com.

Farmers markets have taken Puerto Vallarta and its environs by storm, with two very popular ones on the South Side every Saturday morning, as well as in Marina Vallarta, Nuevo Vallarta, La Cruz de Huanacaxtle and more. These are great places to buy peanut-butter cookies, dill pickles, meat pies and other comfort foods not generally sold in local grocery stores. The markets are highly social experiences, too, with much of the expatriate community showing up, along with tourists who get to meet interesting locals. Mercado Municipal Calle Francisca Rodriguez, Centro Originally the central produce market, Mercado Municipal is now rife Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico with souvenirs, flowers, pinatas, blankets and, well, junk. Upstairs are several inexpensive food stands. Expect to pay in cash for any items you haggle for. Daily 8 am-7 pm. Calle Francisca Rodriguez, Centro (at Calle Libertad, near Rio Cuale), Puerto Vallarta.

Old Town Farmers Market-Tianguis Cultural Lazaro Cardenas Park, Emiliano A "producer-only" market, this has become one of Puerto Vallarta's most Zapata compelling weekend attractions. It has a great selection of locally grown farm-fresh produce, artisan foods, handmade crafts, art, jewelry, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico clothing, community education and live music. All products are made, baked, grown and sold by vendors living within about 50 mi/75 km of Puerto Vallarta. Saturday 9:30 am-2 pm. Lazaro Cardenas Park, Emiliano Zapata, Puerto Vallarta.

The streets inland from the malecon and the South Side of the port have plenty of shops, galleries and boutiques. The more expensive shops are inside the resorts and near the hotels. The best prices for inexpensive souvenirs (and opportunity for negotiation) are usually available downtown, on the malecon and on the beaches.

Puerto Vallarta's seemingly endless craving for more shopping venues has led to more than seven stand-alone malls lining Avenida Francisco Ascencio, in no small part because it not only connects downtown with the Hotel Zone and Marina Vallarta, but also because it is the road to the airport. Apart from the obvious offerings of folk art, resort clothing and home furnishings, on this strip you'll also find everything from supermarkets to bars, movie theaters and banks, all air-conditioned.

At the northern end of this road is Marina Vallarta, which boasts Plaza Marina and Plaza Neptuno. In the other direction, down on the river level of the River Cuale, there are several dozen outdoor stalls with moderately priced souvenirs.

Galerias Vallarta Boulevard Francisco Medina Ascencio This modern, air-conditioned mall in front of the cruise-ship terminal has Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico plenty of familiar name brand shops as well as a food court. Daily 11 am-9 pm. Boulevard Francisco Medina Ascencio, Puerto Vallarta. Phone Phone: 322-209-0923 322-209-0923. https://www.galerias.com/GaleriasVallarta. https://www.galerias.com/GaleriasVallarta

Plaza Caracol Ave. Francisco Medina Ascencio Km Loacted within the Zona Hotelera, Plaza Caracol is convenient for 2.5 s/n 2190 Diaz Ordaz, Zona visitors bunking down on Hotel Row. There are a number of local boutiques for footwear and clothing, as well as big brands such as Nike Hotelera and Levi's. There is also a good supermarket. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Ave. Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico Francisco Medina Ascencio Km 2.5 s/n 2190 Diaz Ordaz, Zona Phone: 322-224-3239 Hotelera, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-224-3239. http://www.plazacaracol.mx http://www.plazacaracol.mx.

Cassandra Shaw Jewelry Basilio Badillo 276, South Side Located in the oldest part of the city, this store features unique, handmade, reasonably priced items that are a far cry from the factory- Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico made alternatives on every other block. Call ahead for hours. Basilio Phone: 322-223-9734 Badillo 276, South Side, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-9734. http://www.cassandrashaw.com http://www.cassandrashaw.com. Daniel Espinosa Calle Morelos 600, Centro This designer has been wowing audiences abroad as well as in Mexico with his dramatic and one-of-a-kind necklaces and bracelets. Monday- Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Calle Morelos 600, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone: 322-223-0863 Phone 322-223-0863. http://www.danielespinosa.com. http://www.danielespinosa.com

La Casa del Habano Calle Aldama 170, Centro One of the official importers of Cuban cigars, this air-conditioned Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico smoking lounge also offers coffee and a full bar. Monday-Saturday noon-8 pm May-October, noon-9 pm November-April. Calle Aldama Phone: 223-2758 170, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 223-2758. http://casadelhabano.com.mx http://casadelhabano.com.mx.

Lucy's CuCu Cabana & Zoo Calle Basilio Badillo 295 Offers a vast collection of Mexican handicrafts, from Oaxacan painted Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico wooden fantasy animals to Talavera ceramics, at the best prices. Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm and Saturday 10 am-3 pm November-April. Phone: 322-222-1220 Calle Basilio Badillo 295, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-1220.

Maria de Guadalajara Morelos 552 and Corona This Guadalajara designer excels in fashionable, loose-fitting Mexican Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 cotton styles for women. The casual resort wear includes skirts, pants, blouses and long dresses. Daily 9 am-8 pm. Morelos 552 and Corona Phone: 322-222-2387 (one block from the malecon), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-2387. http://www.mariadeguadalajara.com http://www.mariadeguadalajara.com.

Mundo de Azulejos Venustiano Carranza 374, Emiliano A family-owned business for more than 25 years, this place has a large selection of handmade tiles and ceramics. Murals and house plaques Zapata are made to order in two to three days. Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 Saturday 9 am-2 pm. Venustiano Carranza 374, Emiliano Zapata, Phone: 322-222-5402 Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-5402. http://www.talavera-tile.com.mx. http://www.talavera-tile.com.mx

Peyote People Calle Juarez 222, Centro A fair-trade cooperative, this folk-art store stands out among the many Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 in town for the quality of its art and the reasonable prices. Choose from examples of Huichol yarn paintings and beadwork, Oaxacan wooden Phone: 322-222-6268 animals and black-clay pottery, Mayan folk art from Chiapas and more, http://www.peyotepeople.com without any time-share salespeople. Monday-Friday 10 am-8 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-6 pm. Calle Juarez 222, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-6268. http://www.peyotepeople.com.

Rolling Stones Paseo Diaz Ordaz 802, Centro Go there for leather boots and jackets—some in exotic skins. Jackets Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico are made to order in three to four days; custom-made boots will be shipped to your home. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Paseo Diaz Ordaz 802, Phone: 322-223-1769 Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-1769. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rolling- https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rolling-Stone/476189692576443. Stone/476189692576443

Xocodiva Calle Rodolfo Gomez 118, Zona There simply is no other chocolatier that comes close in Vallarta. Romantica Exquisite truffles and molded chocolates are all stylishly arranged on immaculate glass shelves at this classic Canadian-owned confectionery Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico store. The chocolate itself is European, but among the various mousse Phone: 322-113-0352 fillings are some New World flavors, including lime, coconut, cinnamon, http://www.xocodiva-pv.com Kahlua and espresso. Two locations. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Calle Rodolfo Gomez 118, Zona Romantica, Basilio Badillo 168, Zona Romantica, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-113-0352. http://www.xocodiva-pv.com. Itinerary

Day Trips

To Mismaloya. The Night of the Iguana was filmed in this small fishing community in 1963, and since then the village has evolved into a resort area. Palapa-style restaurants line the beach, and you can rent Jet Skis and kayaks at the local dive shop.

Mismaloya can be experienced in a few hours, or you could spend an entire day there, depending on your desired activities. It's 6 mi/10 km south of Puerto Vallarta on the coastal highway. Public buses run frequently from the corner of Basilio Badillo and Constitucion on Puerto Vallarta's South Side.

To Boca de Tomatlan. Boca is the last village on the southern end of Banderas Bay reachable by the coastal highway south of Puerto Vallarta. It's at the mouth of Rio Tomatlan and has beautiful mountain and jungle scenery.

Las Juntas, upriver from Boca, is a small mountain village (not to be confused with Las Juntas and Los Veranos, which is south of Vallarta). The river flows through it in a series of picturesque cascades.

Boca de Tomatlan can be reached by taking a public bus from the corner of Basilio Badillo and Constitucion on Puerto Vallarta's South Side.

To Yelapa. This small coastal village south of Puerto Vallarta is reachable only by boat. The small cove is lined with palms and ringed by verdant hills and lush jungle, and its idyllic beach and vegetation create a South Seas atmosphere. A river running into the cove divides the beach, on the north side, from the village to the south.

To get to Yelapa, you can take a boat from Boca de Tomatlan or from the pier at Playa los Muertos. Water taxis and various fancy cruise boats at these locations make a few trips daily.

To Las Animas. This picturesque beach features a sweeping arc of rocky promontories and white sand. The beachfront has some quaint and traditional seafood restaurants, and the waters are usually good for swimming or snorkeling.

If you want to go directly to Las Animas from Puerto Vallarta and bypass Boca de Tomatlan, a water taxi departs from the Los Muertos pier.

There is a wide selection of tours in Puerto Vallarta, ranging from air-conditioned bus tours of the city to Jeep and horseback tours of nearby jungles and ranches. Popular bay cruises allow you to watch whales, birds or sunsets. The Islas Marietas are a nice destination by boat, and bus tours will take you to the coastal towns of San Blas and Savulita. Many companies offer English- speaking guides and a wide variety of outing options, with a particular focus on the natural beauty of Banderas Bay.

Although companies may be contacted directly, you'll notice tours advertised in the many information kiosks throughout Vallarta. The kiosks usually hold time-share salespeople who offer you heavily discounted rates in exchange for your attendance at a presentation. The discounts are real, but be forewarned that the high-pressure sales presentations eat up a large chunk of your day. Vallarta authorities have made progress in reducing their numbers, but they are still present in high-density tourist areas, especially at the airport. It's often best to book from the hotel desks run by the tour companies such as Best Day, Expedia, Vallarta Adventures and Gray Line.

Ecotours de Mexico Proa 20, Condominio Marina del Rey, A relatively small operation in business since 1991, Ecotours programs Marina Vallarta offer strong environmental-education tours designed by a biologist and his wife, who has a sustainable development Master's degree. Biologists Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48335 lead excellent whale-watching (mid-December to March) and turtle- Phone: 322-209-2195 camp (August-December) excursions; the latter involves releasing http://www.ecotoursvallarta.com protected sea-turtle hatchlings into the wild. Other Ecotours adventures include bird-watching, snorkeling, scuba diving, sea kayaking and hiking. The headquarters is also a dive shop. There is a second location in Proa Local 20, Edificio Marina del Rey (Marina Vallarta; phone 209- 2195). Monday-Saturday 8 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Proa 20, Condominio Marina del Rey, Marina Vallarta, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-209-2195. http://www.ecotoursvallarta.com.

Superior Tours Calle Jazmin 158, Colonia Villa Las Offers all manner of city, coast, inland and customized tours, including Flores trips to Cuba. It handles just about anything and everything a traveler would want, for as few as one person to groups of 100 or more. Its Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico guides are multilingual and considered by many in the industry to be the Phone: 322-222-0024 finest in the city. You truly would be hard-pressed to find a more http://www.superiortoursvallarta.com competent outfitter in Vallarta. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 9 am-2 pm. Calle Jazmin 158, Colonia Villa Las Flores, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-0024. http://www.superiortoursvallarta.com.

Vallarta Adventures Edificio Marina Golf, Local 13-C, Calle This well-established and ecofriendly company operates a slew of Mastil, Marina Vallarta excursions, many of which accommodate larger groups and those looking for a more festive atmosphere. Among the long list of outings Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48354 are dive trips, whale-watching, jungle canopy tours, sailing trips, Phone: 322-226-8413 chartered flights to remote Sierra villages, survival outings, day and http://www.vallarta-adventures.com night cruises, and a glamorous show known as Rhythms of the Night at Las Caletas, which used to be the private island hideaway home of director John Huston. The main location is on Paseo de las Palmas in Nuevo Vallarta, where the dolphin center is located. Edificio Marina Golf, Local 13-C, Calle Mastil, Marina Vallarta, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322- 226-8413. Toll-free 888-526-2238 from the U.S. http://www.vallarta- adventures.com.

Vallarta Food Tours 1193 Avenida Mexico To get a taste of traditional Mexican food the way the locals eat it, book Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48350 a three-hour tour with this company run by an expat couple and their Mexican guides. There are three choices of tastings and cultural walks, Phone: 322-181-7196 with two during the day and one at night. These tours provide tasty http://www.vallartafoodtours.com samplings and an understanding of the country's rich cuisine and regional specialties. 1193 Avenida Mexico, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322- 181-7196. http://www.vallartafoodtours.com.

Four days should give most visitors a good introduction to Puerto Vallarta.

Day 1—Arrive Puerto Vallarta. Spend the afternoon at the beach, but take plenty of sunscreen—the tropical sun is intense. If you're feeling up to renting a Jet Ski or going parasailing, go for it. Have dinner and check out one of the top-flight discos afterward.

Day 2—Now it's time to see some of the city. Head to the Centro, stopping at the Plaza Principal and Church of Guadalupe, and then stroll along the colorful seaside walkway, the malecon. Don't miss the voladores dancing high above you in midair in the evening, toward the end of the boardwalk. Lunch along the malecon, and then head inland to the hills and homes of Gringo Gulch. Explore the peaceful Isla Rio Cuale. The island and the Zona Romantica also have numerous nice spots for dinner.

Day 3—Take a day cruise or water taxi to Yelapa or Las Animas and have lunch there: You'll think you're in the South Seas. In the evening, go to Mismaloya or Bucerias to watch the sunset. Dine along Playa Mismaloya or Playa Bucerias.

Day 4—See the mellow South Side of Puerto Vallarta. Spend the afternoon on the city's most popular beach, Los Muertos, and stroll among the shops on the nearby South Side streets. For dinner, try one of the many fine eateries along Restaurant Row, Calle Basilio Badillo.

Day 5—Depart.

These three different itineraries are designed specifically for cruise-ship visitors to help you make the most of your time in port. PLAN A

A Little Strolling, a Little Sightseeing Take a taxi downtown and amble along the malecon to enjoy the bay. Take note of the interesting statue of a boy on a seahorse. After that, take one or more of the side streets to shops and galleries and look for the landmark crown of Our Lady of Guadalupe, the city's splendid old church. Visit the church and then see the Manuel Lepe mural at the city hall on nearby Plaza Principal.

Walk south to the Mercado Municipal flea market, where you can barter for souvenirs. Suspension bridges lead to the nearby Isla Cuale—a test of one's balance, but fun, especially after a rainfall when the river splashes over boulders and tree trunks. Choose a riverside table at The River Cafe for lunch, and then stroll past the galleries and shops on Isla Rio Cuale. Climb the stairs to the street at Calle Ignacio Vallarta. You can spend the rest of the afternoon shopping in El Centro. Or take the stairs to the pedestrian bridge over the mouth of the river, sit on a bench, and simply soak in the magnificent vista before you.

Return to the ship to freshen up for dinner. If your ship stays in port for the evening, take a taxi to the South Side and dine at a restaurant on Basilio Badillo, otherwise known as Restaurant Row, or one of the other streets just off Olas Altas. While there, check out the neighborhood shops and galleries. If you arrive on Wednesday October-April, check out the weekly downtown Art Walk 6-10 pm, a free series of cocktail receptions at most of the downtown art galleries.

PLAN B

Sunning and Dancing

If sightseeing is low on your list of priorities for the day, gather your swimming gear and walk to the tour-boat pier (next to the cruise terminal) to sign up for a sailing and snorkeling trip to one of the secluded beaches north of Puerto Vallarta. Several companies offer this excursion, and it's easy to find a space. In addition to peering at colorful fish, you'll have plenty of time to soak up the sun. The outings usually include lunch—often fish grilled on the beach—and an open bar. Things can get boisterous when people start dancing and playing beach games. Or if you'd rather see how tequila is produced, sign up for the ship's morning tour of a local distillery where you'll also get to sample the regional moonshine called raicilla along the way.

Back at the dock, you'll be ready for a siesta. Plan on a late dinner at Trio, Barcelona Tapas or Cafe des Artistes (if your ship stays late enough). Stop in for late-night drinks and dancing at the Cuban-flavored Bodeguita del Medio right off the malecon.

PLAN C

Yelapa Escape

Pack your sturdiest land and beach gear and catch the early-morning boat from Playa los Muertos to Yelapa for a day of hiking and swimming. If you want to, you can arrange to go horseback riding past the coconut, mango and banana plantations. There are several casual waterside stands and palapa restaurants that serve lunch and cool drinks, and the quiet, shaded beach is perfect for lounging.

The boat will return to Puerto Vallarta in time for you to photograph the sculptures along the malecon and browse a few downtown shops. If your ship stays in port for the evening, treat yourself to a fun night of dinner and dancing.

DINING

Dining Overview

Thanks to the talents of local and expatriate chefs, Puerto Vallarta stands out as one of the most food-savvy cities in Mexico. Travelers with a yen for a fine Continental, Italian, Indian, French, Asian, Spanish or (of course) Mexican dish will be surprised by the options. In the more innovative establishments, traditional Mexico is artfully blended with the cuisine and flair of foreign lands, making for an exceptional and exotic dining experience. Adding to the roster of Vallarta restaurants are home-style American joints, vegetarian cafes, pancake houses and good seafood eateries serving what the local fishermen bring in that day.

Although quality eateries can be found all over Puerto Vallarta, Calle Basilio Badillo on the South Side has become known as Restaurant Row, thanks to its many excellent spots. Other dining hot spots are Olas Altas, Los Muertos Beach (where the emphasis is on quaint, intimate dining) and the restaurants that line the malecon, which run the gamut from cheap and boisterous watering holes to expensive seafood places. Some of the beach clubs on Los Muertos Beach have their own fine restaurants only open to club guests.

Wherever you eat, we recommend calling ahead for reservations during peak season. Traditionally, locals eat meals much later than their northern neighbors in the U.S. and Canada: Lunch starts at 2 pm and dinner at 8 pm. However, most restaurants cater to earlier eaters. Some restaurants close during the rainiest summer months for the low season.

Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than M$200; $$ = M$200-$300; $$$ = M$301-$550; and $$$$ = more than M$550.

El Arrayan Calle Allende 344, Centro Cutting-edge Mexican cuisine with creative flair makes this place one of Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48304 the hottest spots in town. Take a gander at that favorite dish, ceviche. The chef takes it up a notch with baby scallops. Carnitas, traditionally Phone: 322-222-7195 made with pork, are made with duck there. A popular main dish is beef http://www.elarrayan.com.mx fillet with a mole sauce made from nearly two dozen herbs and spices. Mexican harp with guitar (sometimes guitar only) on Friday and Los Frixoleros on Saturday. The restaurant also offers cooking classes for breakfast or lunch. Wednesday-Monday 5:30-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Calle Allende 344, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222- 7195. http://www.elarrayan.com.mx.

Ocean Grill Boca de Tomatlan This place is so far off the beaten path, it has its own panga (boat) to Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico take you there: It's only accessible by a rigorous hiking trail from Boca de Tomatlan or by water. You must have reservations at this fabulous Phone: 322-223-7315 eight-table cliffside grill with its own nearly private sandy cove. The http://oceanlivelovegrill.com bartender will speed you that icy margarita (ask for the special), and the grill is ready for gourmet salads, seafood, ribs and so much more. Children younger than 14 not admitted. Take your bathing suit, towel and sunblock if you plan to spend time on the beach. Wednesday- Monday 11 am-5 pm. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. No credit cards. Boca de Tomatlan, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-7315. http://oceanlivelovegrill.com.

Panchos Takos Basilio Badillo 162, Zona Romantica, A block and a half off the malecon, behind Playa Los Arcos Hotel, this Emiliano Zapata local institution mixes locals and tourists hankering for some of the best tacos in town, served late. There's usually a line. Served on local Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 handmade crockery, the tacos are the main event. The asada tacos are Phone: 322-222-2597 excellent, and the al pastor tacos are legendary. Beer and soft drinks http://pachostakos.restaurantwebexperts.com accompany the food. Daily 6 pm-2 am. $$$. No credit cards. Basilio Badillo 162, Zona Romantica, Emiliano Zapata, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-2597. http://pachostakos.restaurantwebexperts.com.

The Red Cabbage Cafe Calle Rivera del Rio 204, El Remance This charming little air-conditioned restaurant has good food and Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico eclectic decor dedicated to Frida Kahlo. Start with the novel cream of peanut soup and then move on to either the spinach salad or the chiles Phone: 322-223-0411 en nogada (a stuffed pepper in walnut sauce, served cold). The list of http://www.redcabbagepv.com entrees, based on Frida's cookbooks, is long and tempting, so you might want to eat there more than once. Monday-Saturday 5-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. No credit cards. Calle Rivera del Rio 204, El Remance (along the banks of Rio Cuale), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-0411. http://www.redcabbagepv.com.

Asian

Archie's Wok Calle Francisca Rodriguez 130, Started by Archie Alpenia—movie director John Huston's chef—and Emiliano Zapata continued by his family, son Sergio expertly handling the kitchen, this eatery is now legendary. It serves a wide variety of Asian food—try the Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 Thai garlic shrimp and the fish in banana leaves or cashew chicken. A Phone: 322-222-0411 harpist-flutist plays Friday and Saturday evenings. Monday-Saturday 2- http://www.archieswok.com 11 pm. Reservations not accepted. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle Francisca Rodriguez 130, Emiliano Zapata (South Side), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-0411. http://www.archieswok.com.

Bravos Restaurant and Bar Calle Francisco I. Madero 263 This award-winning international cuisine restaurant is always packed. Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 The menu is a trip around the world, touching down in Thailand, Italy and China before landing in Mexico, which probably explains its appeal Phone: 322-222-0339 to the whole tourism spectrum. Tuesday-Sunday 5-10:30 pm. http://www.bravospv.com Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Calle Francisco I. Madero 263, Emiliano Zapata, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322- 222-0339. http://www.bravospv.com.

Cafe des Artistes Guadalupe Sanchez 740, Centro For more than two decades, this place has been the gold standard for Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 fine dining in Puerto Vallarta. Therefore it's hard not to be a little impressed with the design of this corner building. The exterior boasts a Phone: 322-222-3228 distinctive crenellated tower, and the airy inside contains a garden and http://www.cafedesartistes.com stream. The food is similarly sophisticated, blending traditional French ideas with Mexican ingredients. (For example, try the duck duo in tamarind sauce with guava and arbol chili.) Two different dining ambiences greet diners—chef-owner Thierry Blouet's Bistro Gourmet and Cocina de Autor (Chef's Kitchen). Dress is dressy-casual, and patrons are encouraged to think twice before taking small children. Daily 5:30-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Guadalupe Sanchez 740, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322- 222-3228. http://www.cafedesartistes.com.

Daiquiri Dick's Los Muertos Beach, Olas Altas 314 A fixture on Los Muertos Beach for decades, this classy yet casual spot, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 with its front facing Los Muertos Beach, is popular for views of gorgeous sunsets over the bay, and its food doesn't disappoint. Popular Mexican Phone: 322-222-0566 plates fused with Asian and Californian gastronomy intrigue—the Asian http://www.ddpv.com chicken salad is addictive. Featuring a full-service bar and wine list, good margaritas and friendly service. The Deli, near the entrance, is an inviting spot to pick up some salads, roasted salmon and fresh-baked cookies to go. Daily 9 am-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Los Muertos Beach, Olas Altas 314 (South Side), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-0566. http://www.ddpv.com.

La Leche Almacen Gourmet Blvd. Francisco Medina Ascencio Km Perhaps Puerto Vallarta's most innovative restaurant, a white-on-white interior combines with artfully presented dishes and colorful cocktails. 2.5 The chalkboard menu changes frequently based on what's fresh and Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48333 available and often combines cultural influences in novel ways. Best Phone: 322-293-0901 experienced on weekdays, when the staff is less harried and there's no http://www.lalecherestaurant.com spillover from the upstairs lounge. Daily 6 pm-1 am. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Blvd. Francisco Medina Ascencio Km 2.5, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-293-0901. http://www.lalecherestaurant.com.

Hacienda Alemana Basilio Badillo 378, Emilliano Zapata Expect traditional German food served in a garden setting, away from Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 the noise of the street. The full bar is stocked with several German beers. The schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese is great, but save Phone: 222-2071 some space for the apple strudel. All food is 30% off Monday and http://haciendaalemana.com/puerto- Tuesday; Wednesday and Saturday is the Bavarian Buffet, draft beer vallarta/restaurant included; Thursday and Friday feature an all-you-can-eat (and drink) barbecue ribs and sausages, salad bar and draft beer. Every day there is a special three-course menu available with beer from 12:30-5 pm. Monday-Saturday 12:30-11:30 pm. $$-$$$. No credit cards. Basilio Badillo 378, Emilliano Zapata, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 222-2071. http://haciendaalemana.com/puerto-vallarta/restaurant.

Kaiser Maximilian Restaurant & Cafe Olas Altas 380-B, Centro Sur This Austrian-owned establishment serves contemporary Continental Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 and Austrian cuisine with a few Mexican flourishes. Try the baby lamb strips with poblano or the sauteed pork loin with housemade noodles Phone: 322-223-0760 and mushroom sauce. You can eat in the elegant, air-conditioned http://www.kaisermaximilian.com interior reminiscent of 19th-century Hapsburg, or dine on the sidewalk. Monday-Saturday 8 am-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Olas Altas 380-B, Centro Sur, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-0760. http://www.kaisermaximilian.com.

Florio's Centro Vallarta Galeana 185, Proyecto Escola, Centro Located two blocks off the malecon, this is a convincing northern Italian import, with great wood-oven baked pizza, calzones and wonderful Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico breads. The classic fettuccine alfredo is fantastic, and interesting local Phone: 322-222-1765 flair comes in the form of the specialty seafood dishes. The restaurant is https://www.facebook.com/FloriosCentroVallarta cozy and inviting, with a weathered adobe interior, and drinks are reasonably priced. Daily from 4 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Galeana 185, Proyecto Escola, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222- 1765. https://www.facebook.com/FloriosCentroVallarta.

La Piazzetta Rodolfo Gomez 143 This Italian-run restaurant is a favorite with the locals. The large menu Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 includes 24 thin-crust pizzas, as well as pastas and other entrees. The owner and host, Mimmo, is extremely charming and will attend to your Phone: 322-222-0650 every need. The wine list boasts vintages from Mexico, Chile, France http://www.lapiazzettapv.com and, of course, Italy. End your meal with a glass of limon liqueur. There's a second location at Ave. Fluvial Vallarta 219 in the Zona Hotelera (phone 224-7288). Monday-Saturday 4 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Rodolfo Gomez 143 (at the corner of Calle Olas Altas), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-0650. http://www.lapiazzettapv.com.

Porto Bello Marina Sol, Local 7, Marina Vallarta Classic, unpretentious Italian fare makes this spot excellent for family Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 dining. Enjoy the air-conditioned dining room or a more casual atmosphere on the terrace overlooking the marina. The house-made Phone: 322-221-0003 pastas and sauces are created using family recipes. Very popular with http://www.portobellovallarta.com those who know Italian food. There is live Italian music most nights. There are two more locations in Nuevo Vallarta. Porto Pizza by Porto Bello (phone 329-297-6719), and Porto Bello Bistro and Lounge Nuevo Vallarta Plaza. Tuesday-Sunday 2-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Marina Sol, Local 7, Marina Vallarta, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-221-0003. http://www.portobellovallarta.com.

Trio Guerrero 264, Centro Long considered one of the best restaurants in Puerto Vallarta, Trio Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 serves Mediterranean food with accents of Mexico. The menu changes seasonally, so if you chance upon the paella a la pepe y pepo (rice, Phone: 322-222-2196 chicken, curried shrimp and grilled fish in a three-chili sauce), order it http://www.triopv.com fast, or try the special four-course Chef's Menu to see what's fresh and new. And save room for the fine desserts. Daily 6-11:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Guerrero 264, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-2196. http://www.triopv.com.

Barcelona Tapas Matamoros, Centro Hidden in the hills behind the city's center but only four blocks from the Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico malecon, Barcelona Tapas' rooftop garden offers you a killer view of the bay as you dine on some of the best tapas and paella this side of Spain. Phone: 322-222-0510 Try the Angus beef brochette and the grilled garlic mushrooms, and http://www.barcelonatapas.net beware of the delicious but powerful house-made sangria. Paella cooking classes are available Wednesday from 11 am-3 pm, November- April. Six-course tasting meal for M$395, and well-priced lunch specials. Sunday-Thursday noon-11:30 pm, Friday and Saturday noon-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Matamoros, Centro (at 31 de Octubre), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222- 0510. http://www.barcelonatapas.net.

Vegetarian

100% Natural Medina Ascencio 1630, Lazaro This local chain serves tasty, mostly meat-free selections. A few fish and chicken dishes are also available. Daily 7:30 am-10:30 pm. $-$$. Most Cardenas major credit cards. Medina Ascencio 1630, Lazaro Cardenas, Puerto Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 62260 Vallarta. Phone 322-223-2974. http://www.100natural.com.mx. Phone: 322-223-2974 http://www.100natural.com.mx

Planeta Vegetariano Iturbide 270, Centro A real find, just a couple of blocks from the main square. The all-you- Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico can-eat buffet features the best vegetarian dishes from around the world. Thursday-Tuesday for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $. No credit Phone: 322-222-3073 cards. Iturbide 270, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-3073. http://planetavegetarianopv.blogspot.mx http://planetavegetarianopv.blogspot.mx.

Salud Super Food Olas Altas 534-A, Zona Romantica A great little place that serves up tasty and healthy food using "superfoods" as the core ingredients. Vegetarian and vegan options Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 (quite a rarity) with a few chicken items to make meat eaters tagging Phone: 322-139-9398 along happy. Many wraps and salads use quinoa. Smoothies are https://m.facebook.com/Salud-Super- sweetened with 100% natural agave. Add-ins include chia seeds, Food-158900984203464 organic kemp hearts, kale and nondairy alternatives. Bowls, sandwiches, soup, and teas and coffees round out the menu. Monday- Saturday 9 am-5 pm. $-$$. No credit cards. Olas Altas 534-A, Zona Romantica, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-139-9398. https://m.facebook.com/Salud-Super-Food-158900984203464.

Veggitalia Pizza & Osteria Vegetariana Corona 172, Proyecto Escola, Centro The vegan and vegetarian fare there is derived from the Mediterranean, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico with vegan pizza, homemade gluten-free pasta and a lasagna that is a must-try. Popular with locals, it has a fun vibe and great selection of Phone: 322-222-8800 Italian wines from Montepulciano and Chianti. Tuesday-Saturday 1-11 https://www.facebook.com/Veggitalia pm October-August. Most major credit cards. Corona 172, Proyecto Escola, Centro, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-8800. https://www.facebook.com/Veggitalia.

Fredy's Tucan Restaurant and Bar Basilio Badillo 245, Emiliano Zapata Freddy's claims to have the best pancakes and waffles in town. In an attractive air-conditioned and garden setting, it also offers an extensive Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 menu of other traditional U.S. and Mexican breakfast favorites, as well Phone: 322-223-0778 as a full bar. Daily 8 am-2:45 pm. $-$$. No credit cards. Basilio Badillo http://www.fredystucan.com 245, Emiliano Zapata, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-0778. http://www.fredystucan.com.

The Pancake House Calle Basilio Badillo 289 Known for pancakes, waffles and the covered patio dining room, this place is popular with both locals and tourists. The menu includes Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 traditional U.S.-style breakfasts and Mexican favorites. It also sells Phone: 322-222-6272 fresh-roasted coffee. Daily 8 am-2 pm. $. No credit cards. Calle Basilio http://thepancakehouse.mx Badillo 289, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-6272. http://thepancakehouse.mx.

A Page in the Sun Lazaro Cardenas 169, Colonia Olas This inviting sidewalk cafe near Playa los Muertos is also the biggest used-book store in town (with most titles in English). Monday-Saturday 7 Altas, Zona Romantica am-11 pm. $. No credit cards. Lazaro Cardenas 169, Colonia Olas Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48389 Altas, Zona Romantica, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-3608. Phone: 322-222-3608 http://www.apageinthesun.com. http://www.apageinthesun.com

Dee's Coffee Company Calle Francisca Rodriguez 111 y 117, Popular with the gringo crowd, Dee's is in a comfortable corner just a block from the beach. Enjoy homemade muffins, pies and pastries, as Emiliano Zapata well as espresso and lattes available in decaf and light forms. Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 Sandwiches are also available for takeout. Free internet access. Daily 7 Phone: 322-222-1197 am-10 pm. $. No credit cards. Calle Francisca Rodriguez 111 y 117, https://www.facebook.com/deescoffeecompany Emiliano Zapata, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-1197. https://www.facebook.com/deescoffeecompany.

Pie In The Sky Aquiles Serdan 242, Local 3 Espresso, lattes and other coffees do justice to the delicious pies, cakes, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico scones and cheesecake tarts that keep making this the No. 1 bakery in local polls. There's a second branch at Ave. Paseo de la Marina 121 Phone: 322-223-8183 (local 5) in the Condominio NIMA building in Marina Vallarta. Monday- http://pieinthesky.com.mx Saturday 9 am-10 pm. $. No credit cards. Aquiles Serdan 242, Local 3, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-8183. http://pieinthesky.com.mx.

Coco's Kitchen Calle Pulpito 122, Emiliano Zapata This is a definite favorite for its welcoming garden setting and staff: Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48399 Coco herself will ensure you are well taken care of. One quickly feels like part of the family after just a few visits. The spinach and strawberry Phone: 322-223-0373 salad, eggs Benedict, stuffed French toast and lamb are exceptional; https://www.cocoskitchenpv.net the margaritas are excellent. Monday night in high season is "Greek Night," with aromatic Greek dishes, belly dancers and great fun. Wednesday night is Mexican night, with live folkloric dance shows. Monday-Saturday 8 am-10 pm, Sunday 8 am-3:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Calle Pulpito 122, Emiliano Zapata, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-0373. https://www.cocoskitchenpv.net.

The River Cafe Isla del Rio Cuale 4 Its beautiful location gives this restaurant a very romantic feeling: An open-air dining room with lovely terra-cotta walls. At night, with lights in Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 the trees and the river flowing by, it's a wonderful place for a meal. The Phone: 322-223-0788 food is a tasteful blend of Continental cuisine with added flavors from https://www.facebook.com/rivercafepv Mexico. Try the rack of lamb and the Thai crab and coconut soup—both are outstanding. The wine list is extensive, and live music is featured Wednesday-Saturday 8-11 pm. Daily 8 am-11:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Isla del Rio Cuale 4 (near the Ignacio Vallarta Bridge, Centro), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223- 0788. https://www.facebook.com/rivercafepv.

Vitea Calle Libertad 2, Centro The well-regarded Trio has branched out to this charming, small bistro Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 with art-deco decor and a knockout view of the bay. Choose interior seating with air-conditioning or a terrace with umbrellas, where the Phone: 322-222-8703 chairs are more comfortable and one can watch the world passing by. http://www.viteapv.com Serving lighter meals with two portion sizes, the menu includes the namesake Mediterranean fare with Mexican accents such as crab cannelloni with spinach pasta and a hint of cilantro. There's also grilled chicken, fish, salads and soups. Daily 8 am-11:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Calle Libertad 2, Centro (at the malecon), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-8703. http://www.viteapv.com.

Cafe de Olla Basilio Badillo 168 Long lines at this sidewalk cafe tell even the most jaded diner that something special is going on in the kitchen. Revered by expatriates, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 locals and the lucky tourist who discovers it, this eatery serves good Phone: 322-223-1626 grilled foods, including chicken and steak, that are simply and deliciously https://facebook.com/Cafe-de-Olla- prepared. Expect plenty of Mexican favorites and fresh seafood cooked Puerto-Vallarta-Jalisco-442362415526 with feeling and a willingness to tweak anything to accommodate special requests. Wednesday-Monday 10 am-11 pm mid-October to mid- September. Reservations not accepted. $$-$$$. No credit cards. Basilio Badillo 168, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-1626. https://facebook.com/Cafe-de-Olla-Puerto-Vallarta-Jalisco- 442362415526.

La Palapa Pulpito 103, Emiliano Zapata This sedate restaurant—named for the palm-thatched umbrella that is the beachgoers' friend—serves good seafood and a Continental menu, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48399 enhanced by soft background music and candles on the tables. It's also Phone: 322-222-5225 the fanciest place on the beach, easily distinguished from the other http://www.lapalapapv.com palapa places. Very romantic at night. You can even order a special "Romantic Dinner" consisting of a five-course gourmet menu and extra personalized attention. Live music nightly from 8-11 pm. Daily 8:30 am- 11:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Pulpito 103, Emiliano Zapata (on Los Muertos beach), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-222-5225. http://www.lapalapapv.com.

Mariscos El Coleguita Calle Popa s/n, local 17, Marina Locals jam this open-air restaurant and bar overlooking the marina for Vallarta the four-course meal that always includes soup, salad, a nice portion of fish, fried bananas for dessert and a shot of Cream of Kahlua. Great Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48335 place for people-watching and gazing at the luxury yachts. The shrimp Phone: 322-281-6181 dishes are especially delicious. There is a second branch at Carretera a http://www.mariscoselcoleguita.com Tepic 5735 in La Juntas. Wednesday-Monday noon-8 pm. $$. No credit cards. Calle Popa s/n, local 17, Marina Vallarta (in front of Muelle Dock K), Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-281-6181. http://www.mariscoselcoleguita.com.

SECURITY

Personal Safety Puerto Vallarta is a relatively safe place, certainly more so than Acapulco. However, bear in mind that it is still rife with some less- than-honorable types. And while most of the crime is "white collar" (price gouging, bait-and-switch tactics, and so on), theft is not unheard of, so hold on to your purse, cell phone, computer and camera. Don't wear expensive-looking jewelry.

Walking on the beach late at night isn't a good idea. Use common sense: It's best to walk with someone at night, particularly in areas that are not well lit. If you go for a swim, don't leave your belongings unguarded. Storing valuables in the hotel safe is also a good idea. The white-outfitted Tourist Police exist to help you, and most of the officers on this special force speak English.

Bear in mind that taxi drivers often receive commissions from restaurants, bars and clubs, and will attempt to steer you to one of these venues if you are not adamant about your destination. While in many places asking a taxi driver for suggestions on where to go is an excellent idea, in Vallarta it is not. Have your hotel call your cab, or if you must do so yourself, confirm the exact price before getting into the cab.

Most tourists likely will never see the inside of a local bus, but it is a good idea to avoid them unless you're used to riding them in other Mexican cities. Several city ordinances have been passed since the 1990s in an attempt to improve both vehicular and pedestrian safety where buses are concerned. Unfortunately, there are still occasional accidents. Although tourism-related fatalities are rare, almost all of them have involved errant bus drivers.

Be aware that just because a driver in one lane stops to let you cross the street, the driver in the next lane may not be so considerate. Pay special attention crossing streets, getting on and off buses, and getting into and out of taxis. Drivers frequently ignore traffic signals.

Take note that balcony railings are not built to the same height standards as they are in other countries, so it is easier to fall. Dangling electrical wires are another potential danger. If you are in doubt as to whether a wire is live or not, assume it is. Also keep eyes on the ground in the old city as sidewalks can be uneven or have holes.

For more information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Puerto Vallarta's water system has passed international standards for a number of years, and Mexican officials adamantly maintain that the water is safe to drink, and so it is, but bottled water and prepackaged drinks remain popular with both locals and tourists. By law, all hotel and restaurant water must be purified. Be careful about ice when outside the city, although ice made from purified water is common anywhere tourists congregate.

The food served in restaurants is safe to eat, but you're taking a chance when purchasing food from street vendors. Pay attention to crowds and hygiene to be safe, or book an exploration of food carts with Vallarta Food Tours. Hepatitis A vaccinations are recommended; consult your doctor about other vaccinations based on where else you'll be traveling in Mexico and for how long.

Like much of the tropics, Puerto Vallarta has experienced outbreaks of dengue fever in the past. There is no vaccine that protects against the mosquito-borne disease, and travelers are advised to wear mosquito repellent. Dengue symptoms include a sudden onset of high fever, headache, joint and muscle pain, and rash. The illness isn't life-threatening for most people and generally goes away in about a week when treated. But if the patient is very young or very old, or if hemorrhagic dengue is suspected, seek medical treatment at once.

Sunstroke and severe sunburns are common, so it is always advised to use sunscreen and wear a hat before heading out into the sun, even if it's cloudy.

For a medical emergency, contact Cornerstone Hospital, located in the Zona Hotelera just behind Plaza Caracol (phone 322-224- 9400). Most insurance is accepted. Other hospitals include Hospital San Javier, across from the cruise terminal (phone 322-226- 1010); Medasist Hospital, located on the South Side (phone 322-223-0444); or Amerimed, located across the highway from the Plaza Marina (phone 322-226-2080).

For more health information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Puerto Vallarta is making an effort to become more wheelchair-accessible, though it still has a way to go. There are wheelchair ramps to allow access to the malecon downtown, but because of the high volume of water running down the steep streets in the summer, the curbs on many other streets are too high to allow ramp construction, and many sidewalks on the side streets in the old city are simply too narrow.

There are many large potholes around town (often unmarked and neglected for long periods of time) and some sidewalks are far from smooth. Always keep your eyes open and watch out for holes and debris, particularly palm fronds. In general, the South Side has more wheelchair-accessible spots than the Centro. Only a few transportation vans are outfitted to accommodate people with disabilities, though taxis are usually accommodating. The newer hotels are all built to U.S. ADA standards, however, so on the resort property there are usually few obstacles.

Wheelchairs can be rented through Mexico Accesible, Oceano Indico 399, Colonia Palmar del Aramara, Puerto Vallarta. It will help you with reservations for accommodations and more. Phone 322-224-1868. http://www.accesiblemexico.com.

Do tip musicians who offer to play for you in a restaurant, if you accept the serenade—they expect it, and this is generally their only source of income. M$50 per song is the going rate, but ask if you're not sure.

Don't rent a car to explore the town. Parking is hard to find, and most of the sites can be covered on foot.

Do not time your trip to coincide with spring break, unless you are a college student. Vallarta is at its most raucous and sleaziest (and dangerous) at that time.

Do ask a taxi driver the price before getting into the taxi, and don't expect the taxi driver to change large bills. In fact, you would be wise to have the exact change with you. Carry Mexican currency in order not to confuse yourself with exchange rates in taxis.

Do bargain in the markets and with beach vendors, but not in the shops. In the markets it is expected; in the shops it is considered an annoyance, unless you are buying multiple items. Remember, too, that most shops, especially those along the malecon, are similar, and prices are not likely to vary much among them. If you see something you like in the first shop, chances are you won't find a better price elsewhere.

Do find out the cost of a long-distance call from your hotel room. Some hotels charge as much as M$76 per minute.

Do be aware that purchasing, possessing and using illicit drugs is illegal in Mexico, though penalities for personal amounts of marijuana are pretty rare. Just because you can easily buy something on the beach or the streets does not make it legal. The police will not offer sympathy if they catch you using drugs in public.

Don't go to an ATM late at night or if you can be easily watched making your transaction. And do not count your money in an obvious way.

Do pay as you go when out drinking, if your server will oblige, especially if you're with a group. That way, you have a much better handle on what the bill should actually be.

Don't disrespect the locals, even if you feel in a particular case it is warranted. Losing face can have serious consequences in a macho society.

FACTS

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a valid passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S. Passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.

Canadian citizens need either a passport or a birth certificate accompanied by a photo ID.

Population: 255,725.

Languages: Spanish. English is spoken in tourist areas.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).

Time Zone: 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-6 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the first Sunday in April until the last Sunday in October. Note that the towns north and west of Puerto Vallarta (La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Bucerias, San Blas) are in Nayarit state, which is one hour behind Vallarta's time. The entire state of Nayarit used to be on a different time zone, but in 2010 the area from Nuevo Vallarta to Sayulita switched to Central Time to avoid the frequent confusion and missed flights.

Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.

Telephone Codes: 52, country code for Mexico; 322, area code for Puerto Vallarta; 329, business and hotel code in Bucerias and beyond;

Currency Exchange

The easiest way to get local currency is at an ATM, using a bank, debit or credit card and a PIN (but beware the fees, both from the local bank and your bank at home). You'll find ATMs at most banks, especially those in the Centro. CI Banco has the lowest fees, but Bancomer, Banorte and Santander branches are more numerous. Look for money-exchange booths, now quite common, with posted exchange rates at the door. Don't exchange money at a hotel unless other options are not convenient.

Most establishments catering to tourists accept major credit cards, and many welcome U.S. dollars (although the exchange rate may not be favorable). Your change will invariably be given in local currency.

Prices usually include tax, but be sure to ask at the time of purchase. Restaurants will charge this same IVA tax, about 16%, as do hotels, which also add an additional 2% hotel tax.

Puerto Vallarta has a TaxBack program sponsored by the government that allows reimbursement of the IVA taxes on purchases of more than M$1,200. This applies mainly to handicrafts, jewelry, cosmetics and souvenirs, and only at stores accredited by the government to do so. Upon payment, let the merchant know you wish to participate in the TaxBack program (most will be caught off guard). The store will give you special forms to fill out and present at the airport when departing Puerto Vallarta. If they do not have them—a common occurrence—be sure to get an accurate, detailed receipt. http://www.taxback.com.mx.

The standard tip at bars and restaurants frequented by tourists is 15%-20% of the bill—definitely not the scant 10% or less rates more common to the rest of Mexico. Some restaurants add a service charge, usually for groups of six or more, so be sure to check the menu or your bill. Also double-check the math—beach restaurants in particular have been known to employ questionable techniques when calculating the checks.

Taxi drivers are generally not tipped unless they perform some extra service for you (such as carrying bags, making multiple stops, or acting as a translator or guide). Housekeeping should be tipped M$25-$40 per day, more in the better establishments.

Tip live musicians (and maybe even the not-so-lively ones) when they sing, especially when the singing is directed at you at dinner. Even if the song isn't directed at you, a tip is always appreciated. The going rate is M$50 a song, but ask beforehand if you request a tune.

When shopping at a supermarket, it's common practice to tip the person bagging groceries a few coins.

Weather

Summer in Puerto Vallarta is hot and humid. Expect highs in the upper 80s F/27 C and higher. The heat is often relieved by a rain shower that tends to materialize in the late afternoon or early evening, leaving the better part of the day ideal for beachgoing. June and October can be more uncomfortable than the summer because there is a lesser chance of rain. Expect nice weather (highs in the upper 60s-upper 70s F/16-21 C) November-April, with rarely any worry of rain. Hurricane season is June-November. December-March is the high season, when the weather is at its best, prices are highest, and the city is most crowded.

The warm and humid days of summer call for comfortable sportswear in light fabrics such as cotton, as well as bathing suits. (Sunscreen is a necessity.) For the rainy season June-October, you might want a lightweight waterproof jacket. That's also when the mosquitoes are strongest, so carry repellent. For outings in the jungle, wear long pants and long-sleeved shirts in lightweight fabrics. Late December-late February, a light jacket or shawl is nice at night, but don't be surprised to see the locals bundled up in sweaters.

You can wear relatively casual clothing to most business meetings—cool cotton shirts for men (do not wear a guayabera unless you are Mexican) and not-too-revealing sundresses for women. City residents appear in shorts and clean T-shirts or blouses and summer slacks or skirts when going about their business during the day. Dress is informal at most restaurants, though beachwear is prohibited. Both men and women should use beach cover-ups when walking on the streets. Because of the air-conditioning in most restaurants, take a jacket or light wrap with you when going out for dinner. Don't forget a pair of good, comfortable walking shoes with rubber soles for traversing Puerto Vallarta's cobblestoned streets. Flip- flops are acceptable year-round.

Telephone

Pay phones, labeled Ladatel, are readily available in Puerto Vallarta. Coins are no longer used. You can buy Ladatel phone cards in pharmacies and other locations in values of M$100, M$200, M$300 and M$500. To make a local call, simply dial the number— a prefix or area code is not necessary unless you call to or from a cell phone. To call long-distance within Mexico, dial 01 and then the area code and number, or the whole number without the 01 from a cell phone. For calls to the U.S. and Canada, dial 001, then the area code and number. For other countries, dial 00, then the country code, area code and number.

Remember to ask your cell phone provider for instructions on calling home from Mexico. Although international cell phone service is generally available throughout Puerto Vallarta, local cell phones experience lack of signal in areas below the mountains, as well as inside many establishments. If purchasing a local phone or SIM card, Telcel has the widest coverage and Movistar is next.

Purchase an international phone card before you leave home and use it in one of the Telmex phones on the streets, or buy a Ladatel phone card for use with Telmex phones. Many cell phones function from any point within Mexico, but get instructions and a long-distance service number from your service provider before leaving home. Newer options include switching out your SIM card to a local one in an unlocked phone, calling over Wi-Fi, or signing up for international coverage before leaving. If you're on T- Mobile USA, you can probably do everything you do at home with no extra charges within Mexico.

To call Puerto Vallarta from outside Mexico, dial your country's international access code, then Mexico's country code, 52, Puerto Vallarta's area code, 322, and the number. For local directory assistance in Mexico (in Spanish), dial 040.

Internet cafes are still abundant in Puerto Vallarta, but are being edged out by other businesses as more people use their phones and tablets at hotspots. Just look for an internet or "Cibercafe" sign; these businesses don't always have a lot of staying power, so what you find in a phone book might already be outdated. (Note: An internet cafe may be nothing more than a bunch of desks adorned with internet-connected computers, with nary a cup of coffee in sight.)

Wi-Fi is available at the airport, the cruise terminal, in the Main Plaza, in some restaurants, and at most cafes and luxury hotels, as well as shopping malls. Puerto Vallarta has public hotspots in its parks.

San Angel Calle Olas Altas 449 This popular local hangout has computers with internet access, as well as a full menu with tasty breakfasts and sandwiches. It generally stays Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48380 busy right up until closing. No credit cards. Calle Olas Altas 449, Puerto Phone: 322-223-1273 Vallarta. Phone 322-223-1273. https://www.facebook.com/Caf%C3%A9- https://www.facebook.com/Caf%C3%A9- san-Angel-316757190372. san-Angel-316757190372

Out-of-country service provided by the Mexican postal system is quite good. If you are sending time-sensitive documents, DHL and FedEx are available at considerably higher rates. MailBoxes Etc Edificio Andrea Mar No. 7, Zona Offers everything you need to send packages to the U.S. and beyond. Hotelera This is also a good place to receive items and ship souvenirs. There is a second location in the South Side at Plaza Molino del Agua at the corner Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico of Ignacio Vallarta and Aquiles Serdan. Edificio Andrea Mar No. 7, Zona Phone: 322-224-9434 Hotelera, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-224-9434.

Mexico Post Colombia, Centro The city's main post office is open Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Colombia, Centro (at Venezuela), Puerto Vallarta. Phone Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico 48300 322-222-1888. Phone: 322-222-1888

Two free weekly newspapers are published in English in Puerto Vallarta. Vallarta Tribune (http://www.vallartatribune.com), from La Tribuna, and PV Mirror, which is much more informative when it comes to events, but not printed June-November. However, it can be found online every Saturday. http://www.pvmcitypaper.com.

Vallarta Lifestyles, a glossy three-issue-a-year magazine with articles in English and Spanish for both locals and visitors, has an extensive real-estate section as well as guides to hotels, restaurants and shopping (http://virtualvallarta.com/puertovallarta/lifestyles). Vallarta Real Estate Guide publishes the monthly news on local real estate, as does the Property Journal.

The monthly V.I.P Vallarta Important People primarily covers social events with lots of photography and some English-language content (http://www.vipvallarta.com). The annual Vallarta Nautica keeps sailors up to speed on all there is to see and do in and around Banderas Bay (http://virtualvallarta.com/puertovallarta/vallartanautica).

Gay Guide Vallarta (http://www.gayguidevallarta.com) and GayPV (http://www.gaypv.com) are both glossy quarterlies featuring real estate, restaurants, bars, shopping, tours and more.

Transportation

Puerto Vallarta is a very walkable city. Taxis are good options for covering longer distances, especially between the Centro and the Zona Hotelera, Marina Vallarta and Mismaloya. If you're staying outside the city, you may want to rent a car. You'll also want to rent a car if you plan on traveling to the northern coast of the Bay of Banderas or exploring inland areas.

While taxis are available for trips to or from Nuevo Vallarta, Bucerias, La Cruz de Huanacaxtle and farther afield, expect to pay much higher rates. Always ask for the rate in advance.

Air

G Diaz Ordaz Intl (PVR) Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico

The Puerto Vallarta International Airport (PVR) or Gustavo Diaz Ordaz International Airport is situated in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. PVR is located on the coastlines of the Pacific ocean and deals with international and domestic air traffic of Puerto Vallarta. There are two terminals; main terminal building for commercial and general aviation, and an FBO operated by Aerotron. The runway is spread across 3,100 meters long and 45 meters wide and other connecting taxiways connected to commercial and general aviation platforms. Around 24 airlines operate from this airport.

The Puerto Vallarta International Airport is named in memory of Gustavo Diaz Ordaz the President of Mexico.

Security The Pacific Airport Group at the airport overlooks security and safety measures to assist passengers. Documents required to fly within the country are boarding pass and official picture identification. For international flights, boarding pass, passport, destination country visa, and migratory documents are required. Items you can carry in one baggage are medicine, electronic items, clothes, laptops, and shoes. Liquids items more than 100ml not permitted. For babies, breast milk, medicine, and baby formula can be carried. Items that are not permitted to carry in check-in baggage are sharp object only used for cutting or penetration purposes, sporting goods, metal scissors, firearms, and alcoholic beverages and tools.

Connecting Transportation Car rental services offered at Terminal 1 international and National Arrivals include Thrifty, Avis, and Budget. Touristic services such as Miller travel service, Vallarta Adventures are also available at the airport.

Speedy, luxurious and air-conditioned first-class long-distance buses run up and down the coast as well as to major cities such as Guadalajara (four to five-and-a-half hours away) and Mexico City (12-14 hours). The intercity bus station (camionera central) is located just north of the airport on the road to Compostela. Tepic Highway Km 9, Col. Las Mojoneras, Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-290-1009. http://www.autobusesycamioneras.com/central-camionera-de-vallarta.html. Driving in Puerto Vallarta itself is a bit hazardous and should generally be avoided. The bumpy cobblestoned streets and the abundance of potholes can make for a bruising ride. However, if you plan to see sites beyond the Centro and nearby beaches, a rental car may be necessary. Most of the major rental companies maintain offices in Puerto Vallarta, particularly at the airport. Expect to pay at least M$800 per day, including liability insurance, if walking in unannounced. You will get a much better rate renting in advance.

The legal driving age is 18, but some car rental companies add a surcharge for those younger than 25. You will need a credit card (very rarely will debit cards be accepted), and paying with cash is not an option. A U.S. or Canadian driver's license is accepted, but you must have it with you.

Make sure liability insurance (seguros in Spanish) is included—if you have an accident without it, you will have to settle the claim there or go to jail until it is resolved. Collision insurance, however, should be covered by your home insurance and/or your credit card. You should also check the condition of the car before departing—and make the rental agent aware of any damage. For first- time visitors, do not even consider car rental, as the experience can be quite unnerving. Rules of the road are probably very different than what you are used to at home. Always use your seatbelt and drive defensively. Only passengers, never the driver, are allowed to use a cell phone in a moving vehicle. The rare exception is the use of a Bluetooth-enabled driving headset.

The pier at Playa los Muertos is the docking point for water taxis to Las Animas, Yelapa and other popular yet hard-to-reach coastal areas south of Puerto Vallarta. There are usually three or four trips throughout the day (six during high season), and most take 30-45 minutes one way.

Please note that the boats usually wait several hours before making the return journey to Puerto Vallarta, so plan on spending a good chunk of time at your destination. If you buy the round-trip ticket (recommended), remember to ask about the return times in advance since another water taxi will not accept that return ticket.

For visitors staying in Nuevo Vallarta, there is regular water-taxi service from below the Paradise Plaza at the Paradise Village resort at the pier. Ask for times and rates at the information booth inside the Plaza.

Most visitors to Puerto Vallarta should avoid local buses. They can be overcrowded and are not air conditioned, and sometimes drive erratically.

Should you decide to risk it, bus stops are marked by a square blue sign with a white drawing of a bus. Be warned that some stops are missing the sign, and the only indication that a bus will stop there is the group of people craning their necks to peer down the street.

City bus fare is M$7.50, and drivers can usually change any bill smaller than M$100. Signs on the vehicle's windshield will tell you its terminus: "Marina," "Aeropuerto," "Centro" and so on. To catch a green bus to Mismaloya or Boca de Tomatlan (M$8), go to the bus depot on the South Side at the corner of Basilio Badillo and Constitucion.

Note: To avoid confusion about proper change, plan to carry M$5 and $M10 coins since it's much quicker, and you won't have to deal with the disconcerting feeling of hanging on for dear life and counting money as the world looks on.

Many of the cruise ships that ply the west coast of Mexico stop in Puerto Vallarta. The boats dock at the Terminal Maritima, which is at the southern end of Marina Vallarta, about five minutes north of the Centro. Large hotels may have their own transportation, and taxis you hail on the street are yellow with white roofs. The fare is based on a zone system—meters aren't used. Published maps of the zones exist, but they are hard to find, so it's best to determine the fare before entering the taxi. There is a minimum of M$40 within a zone.

For More Information

Tourist Offices

Municipal Tourism Department Calle Independencia 123 The tourist office has information brochures about activities and events in Puerto Vallarta. Another information booth is located at the Plaza Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico Lazaro Cardenas in the South Side. Monday-Friday 8 am-4 pm. Calle Phone: 322-223-2500 Independencia 123 (in city hall at the northeast corner of the plaza), http://www.visitpuertovallarta.com Puerto Vallarta. Phone 322-223-2500 or from the U.S. 800-539-5073. http://www.visitpuertovallarta.com.

EVENTS

Calendar

Annual festivals and holidays highlight Puerto Vallarta's calendar. On these occasions, celebrations invariably take place in the Centro, on or near Plaza Principal and the malecon, and increasingly on the Marina Vallarta malecon or at Plaza Lazaro Cardenas or Hidalgo. Most every month is chock-a-block with annual activities that create a nice rhythm in town, with visitors returning year after year to take part in their favorite festivals, regattas, races, competitions and more. Whether your interests are sailing, cooking, music, dancing, golfing or fishing—in Puerto Vallarta, you will find an event celebrating it. Most events are open to the public and free of charge.

Check local publications such as Vallarta Lifestyles (annually), Bay Vallarta (bimonthly), PV Mirror (weekly), and Vallarta Tribune (weekly) for more event information. Helpful event information is also available at http://www.banderasnews.com.

For additional information about upcoming events in the Puerto Vallarta area, contact the Puerto Vallarta Tourism Board & Convention and Visitors Bureau. Phone 322-224-1175. Toll-free 888-384-6822 from the U.S. https://www.visitpuertovallarta.com.

To call any of the phone numbers listed in this calendar from outside Mexico, you must first dial your country's international access code, followed by Mexico's country code, 52, and Puerto Vallarta's city code, 322.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.

January

6 Jan—Dia de los Santos Reyes Public holiday. Commemorates the three kings' visit to see the baby Jesus. Mexicans exchange Christmas presents.

21 Mar—Equinoccio de Primavera A parade along Paseo Diaz Ordaz (the malecon) to Plaza de Almas celebrates the beginning of spring.

1 May—Labor Day Public holiday. Workers parade through the streets.

16 Sep—Independence Day Public holiday celebrating Mexico's independence from Spain.

12 Oct—Dia de la Raza Public holiday.

12 Dec—Festival of the Virgin of Guadalupe Public holiday. Mexico's patron saint is honored with processions, fireworks and other festivities.

31 Dec—New Year's Eve Public holiday. Entertainment and fireworks on the malecon, at Plaza Principal and along Olas Altas Street at Playa de Los Muertos. Throughout the city, churches hold midnight Mass.