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How to Choose an Ice Axe Choosing an Ice Axe Is Based on What Activity You Will Use It For, and Then on How Big You Are

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How to Choose an Ice Axe Choosing an Ice Axe Is Based on What Activity You Will Use It For, and Then on How Big You Are How to Choose an Ice Axe Choosing an ice axe is based on what activity you will use it for, and then on how big you are. Ice axes generally fall into two different classes - General Mountaineering Ice Axes and Technical Climbing Ice Axes – each of which can be identified by comparing their length, weight, shape and CEN rating. Choosing a Type of Axe by Your Planned Activity You can start your search by identifying what type of ice axe you need based on what you will be using it for. General mountaineering ice axes are used for travel on lower-angle terrain, scrambling, building snow anchors or probing for cornices and crevasses, and they are the best type of axe for self-arrest. Technical climbing ice axes are more specialized tools used for very steep slopes and vertical ice. If you are buying your first ice axe, you are probably looking for a general mountaineering ice axe. Anatomy of an Ice Axe To shop for an ice axe, we first need a basic understanding of its components. Head: The head is comprised of the pick, the adze and the carabiner hole and is usually made of a steel alloy. Pick: The pick is the sharp end of the ice axe, used during a self-arrest. Adze: The broad, shovel-like adze is predominately used to cut steps or seats in snow or ice. Carabiner hole: The hole in the head of an ice axe is commonly used to affix an ice-axe leash. It can also be used for clipping a carabiner. Shaft: Ice-axe shafts are typically made of aluminum, carbon fiber or steel. Each offers a tradeoff in terms of weight and strength. Heavier shafts are usually stronger, although some lightweight materials such as carbon fiber are extremely strong (but much more expensive). Shafts can be either straight or curved. General mountaineering ice axes have straight shafts for plunging, self-belaying or for use in an anchor. Technical mountaineering and ice climbing axes have curved shafts resembling a small arc and are better designed for swinging into ice. General Technical Some shafts are covered either partially or wholly in Mountaineering Climbing rubber to provide extra grip. Athletic tape can be used to Ice Axes Ice Axes create a grip on an axe or you can wear gloves with rubber Shaft Straight Curved palms to create extra friction. Spike Necessary Optional Spike: The metal tip of an axe is the sharp point that Length Longer Shorter penetrates snow and ice. It is predominantly used as a Weight Lighter Heavier stabilizer for maintaining balance while walking on snow CEN "B" "T" or ice, much like a trekking pole. CEN Ratings Some ice axes will be marked with a CEN Rating. CEN (Comité Européen de Normalisation) is a European group that develops and maintains equipment standards. On an ice axe, look for a circular CEN stamp that will have either a capital B or T in it. General mountaineering axes are designated with a B (basic) stamp and technical ice axes and ice tools are designated with a T (technical) stamp. Choosing a Weight Axe shafts are made of a variety of materials, with some stronger than others. Although axes were made of wood in the past, nowadays aluminum, stainless steel, carbon fiber and alloys are more common. Lightweight aluminum ice axes are perfect choices for applications such as ski mountaineering, trekking and glacier travel since they help you save weight and increase speed. But lightweight axes tend to be less durable and less able to penetrate hard ice than heavier axes. While the axe itself may be strong enough for the activity, it is more likely to bend or break with repeated wear. Since lighter axes are made with softer metals, they can also be difficult to maintain and sharpen. Alloys and stainless-steel axes are heavier, but they are more durable and thus better suited for general mountaineering, couloir climbing, ice and mixed climbing, and mountain rescue. Choosing a Length Ice axes are measured in centimeters from the tip of the axe to the top of the head. General mountaineering ice axes are typically available in 5cm increments from 50cm to 75cm. The correct ice axe length is based on your size. One popular way to find the correct length of an axe is to simply hold it in your hand at your side while standing relaxed. The spike of the axe should barely touch the ground when you stand fully upright with your arms at your sides. Note that an ice axe that is too long can make self-arrest difficult because it is easier for the spike can catch in the snow and send you and your axe flying. Ice Axe Leashes An ice axe leash is basically a piece of cord or webbing that is attached to the carabiner hole in the ice axe head. A leash helps secure an ice axe to either your wrist or harness. There are pros and cons to whether to use a leash. A leash can be valuable in situations where losing your axe could mean losing the basic safety tool needed to descend. And it is considered mandatory by many mountaineers when crossing a glacier with several crevasses, climbing long couloirs or crossing long, steep snow slopes. On the other hand, many climbers choose to go leash-less in certain situations noting that a leash merely acts as a tether to a sharp tool that could be hazardous during a fall. A leash can also be an impediment on climbs that involve a lot of switchbacks because you have to pause at each switchback to change wrists, slowing you and your team down. There are three different types of leashes: some companies offer pre-made leashes that fit their tools perfectly, some pre-made universal leashes fit a variety of different axes, or you can make your own leash from either 5mm to 7mm perlon cord or ½" to 1" webbing. Affix the leash to the axe by first tying the cord/webbing into a sling using either a double-fisherman's knot/water knot respectively. Then tie the sling to the carabiner hole using a girth hitch. Lastly, tie an overhand knot in the sling to create a hand loop to put around your wrist. The length of a leash can vary from activity to activity, and length is more of a preference than an exact measurement. Shorter leashes are favored when climbing technical ice or when crossing glaciers. Longer leashes are best when climbing steep snow slopes or for technical mountaineering. They allow the climber to switch the axe between hands without having to remove the leash. A long leash is typically as long as the ice axe itself. .
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