THE UNDISCOVERED Odzala-Kokoua National Park Whisky Heritage and Singita Mara River Tented Camp

the luxury magazine for world travelers Bespoke

A Taste of Scotland’s THE UNDISCOVERED Odzala-Kokoua National Park Whisky Heritage and Singita Mara River Tented Camp

The World Cup Experience Brazil 2014

PLUS: Tanzania with David Marek Great Britain Mozambique

Happy Birthday Mr. Livingstone Celebrating Victoria Falls World’s Best Business Class World’s Best Business Class Contents 4 vol. 5, issue 1 humanitarian, andthemanwhodiscoveredhumanitarian, one ofAfrica’s greatest natural wonders, A tributetoDavid Livingstone:pioneer, ker & downey livin year-round destination.” resident gameinthearea and makes thisanideal is absolutely incredible private acres ofpure safari nirvana…the Reserves is 350,000 “Singita’s Grumeti gstone lives Victoria Falls. PG. ZAMBIA 26 on world’s behind –andthestories whiskies finest There isnobetterplacetoexperience the whisky: scotland' wa them –thanScotland. ter SCOTLAND PG. o 34 f life s

Downey bringsyou thefour most-coveted Brazil ispreparing for aparty, andKer & spots towatch theWorld Cupunfold. 2014 w preview PG. BRAZIL or www.kerdowney.com 42 ld c ld u p

Photography supplied by: four seasons resort chiang mai WONDERS of INDOCHINA

Vietnam Cambodia Thailand Laos

The splendor of the region’s history and culture unfolds before you on this 20-day journey as you discover Vietnam’s royal dynasties, the ancient mysteries of the Khmer civilization, the peaceful spirituality of Laotian monks and the melding of the old world with modern society in Bangkok. Contact your travel professional or visit us on the web to view this journey at www.kerdowney.com. vol. 5, issue 1 www.kerdowney.com Contents

Central & east africa tanzania new zealand into the unknown exploring tanzania Jet to the Links of New Zealand Vice President of Operations Reid Bader ex- Ker & Downey President David Marek recalls plores unfamiliar wildlife havens: the Congo’s his jaunt through Tanzania – an incredible An incredible North to South journey, packed Odzala-Kokoua National Park and the Lamai adventure of unexpected wildlife and unrivaled with coveted golfing excursions and stunning Triangle in Tanzania’s northern Serengeti. luxury on the edge of the Great Migration. landscape seen by private jet.

PG. 52 PG. 60 PG. 70

the travelogue

Destinations Correspondence Philanthropy A map of Ker & Downey’s big, beautiful Sharing stories of traveling to Africa, and Ker & Downey is helping to get children world and a “who’s where” of this issue of the unexpected luxuries that come with a off the streets and back to school at BESPOKE. pg. 8 Ker & Downey journey. pg. 16 Uganda’s Home of Hope. pg. 19

Hot off the Presses Letter from the President Gorongosa's Renaissance Top travel publications where Ker & The latest from David Marek on his own With the persistence of conservationists, Downey can be seen. pg. 12 journeys and where he’s going next. pg. 18 Mozambique’s Gorongosa National Park is returning to its former glory. pg. 24

Kauri cliffs on New zealand's north island

On the Cover: A Speyside distillery worker prepares to sample whisky aged in a barrel. Let Ker & Downey whisk you away on an unforgettable taste-testing journey. See page 34 for the indulgent details on the whisky experience in Scotland.

6 ker & downey THE PHOTO HUNT SUBMIT PHOTOS. WIN ADVENTURES. Show us your images from around the world along with a location and description, and you could be published in the next issue of Bespoke Magazine and win a $500 coupon off your next journey with us! Please send your images to: [email protected]

PHOTO: DOS LAGOS, CHILE vol. 5, issue 1 www.kerdowney.com Destinations

in this issue

Tanzania Mozambique north Republic of the Congo Brazil africa & Scotland New Zealand middle Zambia east east africa Egypt Kenya Israel asia Rwanda Jordan Bhutan Seychelles what does it mean to be”bespoke?” Morocco Cambodia Tanzania The real heartbeat of traveling with Ker & Downey lies in our dedication to Oman creating hand-crafted journeys that will change your life. The experience China Uganda Qatar you gain, the adventure you have, the people you meet - all of these are the India benchmarks of a truly life-changing journey - so step into the world of Ker & Turkey Laos South Downey with boldness. With any of our excursions, mix and match a world of America destinations and luxury properties for your very own, unique trip of a lifetime. United Arab Nepal Emirates Thailand Argentina Brazil volume 5, issue 1 Vietnam Photography credits include: europe Thinkstock photos, Dreamstime photos, Reid Bader, Chile Executive Editor Katy Heerssen David Marek, Russell Gammon, Piotr Naskrecki, Bob Poole, Dream Escape, Singita, Fasano, Wilderness Contributing Editors Ann Abel England southern Ecuador & The Safaris, Dos Lagos, Singapore Airlines, Royal Chundu David Jones Bunnahabhain Distillery, Glenfiddich Distillery, africa Galapagos Brigitte Baumann, Copacabana Palace, Buzios Villa, France David Marek Mwiba Tented Camp, Sayari Camp, The Hills Golf Course, Queenstown Helicopters, Matakauri Lodge, Peru Content Writers Katy Heerssen Sofitel Auckland, Kauri Cliffs, Millbrook Golf Course, Greece Botswana Huka Lodge, Pam Buttner. Haley Beham Ireland Mauritius All pricing that has been notated in this magazine south David Marek has been listed based on double occupancy unless otherwise noted. Italy Mozambique pacific art direction & design Andrew Littmann Prices may vary depending on the time of year as contributing designers Amy Willis Portugal Namibia well as other variable factors. Australia Lauren Marek © 2013 Ker & Downey Scotland South Africa French Polynesia *This magazine is a publication of Ker & Downey. The Spain Zambia views and opinions expressed in this magazine belong to contributors and writers and may not reflect the views and New Zealand opinions of Ker & Downey. Wales Zimbabwe

8 ker & downey GREAT BRITAIN

THE SECRET IS OUT

Ker & Downey has been planning experiential luxury journeys to Europe for several years, and it’s time we let you in on our secret. This new year we’re introducing you to England, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, with much more to come.

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR VISIT US ON THE WEB AT WWW.KERDOWNEY.COM TO VIEW ALL OF OUR DESTINATIONS. London’s Suite Life

Classic cinema and legendary luxury meet in two exclusive suites at 51 Buckingham Gate, Taj Suites and Residences.

Combining all the facilities and conveniences of a luxury hotel with the space and exclusivity of a private home, 51 Buckingham Gate, Taj Suites & Residences, consists of three individually designed buildings: Kings, Falconers, and Minsters. The buildings have been beautifully restored to include 86 elegant suites, each with its own separate kitchen and living area. Located in St. James’s and just minutes from Buckingham Palace, shops, and the theaters of the West End, the town house hotel is an ideal base for a visit to London. The Jaguar Suite

Overseen by Jaguar design director Ian Callum and his in-house The world’s first Jaguar Suite was an exciting collaboration design team, the suite has specially commissioned auto-inspired between two Tata-owned companies, Taj Hotels Resorts and artwork and displays. Leather, metal, high-gloss veneer, and other Palaces and Jaguar. The sleek design of this 1,832-square-foot, materials taken directly from the brand’s automotive design nod two-bedroom abode alludes to classic and contemporary Jaguar to the legacy and future vision of Jaguar’s timeless style. models, from the legendary 1960s E-type to the state-of-the-art C-X75.

The Jaguar experience starts subtly at the door, with sleek wood paneling greeting guests on arrival and Jaguar damask lining the bedroom walls. Intriguing design features are evident throughout, from the minimalistic clean-fuel fireplace referencing the shape of the cars’ hallmark rear window, to the finest leather that’s used in the cars, ebony veneer doors, and custom Jaguar wallpaper. Small Jaguar wave motifs and trapeze detailing accompany an array of carefully selected collector’s items that will be familiar to those who know and love these luxury motoring masterpieces. The Cinema Suite

Created by acclaimed Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, the Cinema Suite takes guests on a journey through world cinema and presents an ode to tradition. The 1,832-square-foot, two- bedroom suite was designed to pay tribute to the history of film, most notably 1940s and 1950s Hollywood and the Indian cinema of the 1950s.

Guests will find references to masters such as Ray, Coppola, and Bergman in the imposing study; world cinema leaders like Majidi, Wong Kar-Wai, and Almodovar among the cultured kitsch of the living room; and echoes of "The Stepford Wives" in the kitchen. One bedroom pays homage to Hollywood’s Rita Hayworth and Marilyn Monroe, while the other draws on colonial inspiration and renowned Indian artists such as Guru Dutt and Bimal Roy.

Among the marvels: breathtakingly rare Bollywood film prints, remarkable history books, vintage mirrors, and a myriad of portraits and drawings. From the leather Chesterfield to precious glassware, intriguing art, and antique rugs, arts and crafts from around the world are displayed throughout. Each wall is a work of art in itself, with striking Nina Campbell wallpapers serving as a backdrop for curios collected from more than 32 cultures. Sumptuous silk drapes meet magnificent oak flooring, while priceless antique furniture displays ornaments such as rare Chinese porcelain, Bhutanese frames, and 1920s embroidered Indian lamps.

What homage to international film culture would be complete without cutting-edge technology and a stunning media room? The 85-inch plasma cinema screen, with a 3D state-of-the-art home theater system, is one of the biggest private screens in any London hotel suite. It’s boosted by a world-class Steinway Lyngdorf cinema system – a fully immersive cinematic experience – and raises the bar for in-hotel audiovisual offerings. The system has been preloaded with 300 international films, books, and music, chosen by Sabyasachi himself to acknowledge that time is well spent among films, art, and culture.

Contact your travel professional or visit www.kerdowney. com to learn more about 51 Buckingham Gate, Taj Suites, and Residences on your next custom journey to London. Icons of Spain & Portugal Look for a comprehensive feature on Icons of Portugal & Spain in an upcoming edition of Elite Traveler Magazine. Get a preview of this featured journey on pg. 14 of this edition of BESPOKE.

Tanzania Walking Safari The May 2013 edition of Travel + Leisure will highlight our Tanzania Walking Safari in the northern Serengeti. Read more about this game-rich region on pg. 60 of this news edition of BESPOKE. Hot Off The Presses Over the past few months, Ker & Downey has been honored to be snapshot featured in the following national travel publications. Check out a few of our worldwide destinations that are creating some buzz. On the Web Interact with us on our website and see amazing photos of your Honeymoon in Ultimate wish list destinations at www. Kenya Africa kerdowney.com The Fall/Winter edition of Town Find Ker & Downey in the Essential our facebook & Country Weddings included Safari Guide in Robb Report’s facebook.com/keranddowney a stunning bridal gown fashion Travel Edition, February 2013. Our twitter spread shot at Ol Donyo Lodge, Read more about the Ultimate twitter.com/kdluxurytravel and a suggested honeymoon in Africa Primate Tour and Migration the Masai Mara that’s heavy on journey featured on pg. 52 of this drop us a line the romance and splendor. edition of BESPOKE. [email protected]

chat with us 800.423.4236 To experience these featured journeys for yourself, contact your travel professional or visit us at www.kerdowney.com.

Ngaga camp in odzala- kokoua national park

12 ker & downey Let’s Get keranddowney @kdluxurytravel Connected ker&downey

Like, follow, and stay connected with Ker & Downey and our signature journeys, BESPOKE Magazine, and hot properties available to you as you customize a luxury journey with us. After your travels, share highlights from your trip with us and other travelers from all over the world. Your shared experiences will open minds to unfamiliar destinations and amazing adventures with Ker & Downey.

We happily encourage you to play show and tell! Tell us about the mahout you met on your elephant ride in India. Show us your amazing safari footage from Botswana. Share with us the view from your hotel room in Dubai. We want to hear it all.

Be the first to know about special offers! some of our favorite tweets @lilathetourist Love seeing #travel & #fashion intersect. Bravo @kdluxurytravel for sponsoring Kenyan designer in her #NYFW debut!

RT @luxtravelErika: Favorite part of #Bespoke @kdluxurytravel golf cart meet & greet as you leave the airplane... #Turkeyatitsbest

RT @luxtravelErika just received the coolest photo by: metropolitan by C OMO, Bangkok itinerary for my clients going to #SouthAfrica by the awesome @kdluxurytravel! debuting march 2013 PRESENTS icons of Portugal & Spain featuring porto, douro, lisbon, madrid, cordoba, granada, seville

DAY ITINERARY ACCOMMODATION Explore the Iberian Peninsula with Ker & Downey’s exclusive DAY 1-2 PORTO The Yeatman 14-day journey through the cultural and culinary history of DAY 3-4 DOURO Aquapura Douro Valley this rich region. The tremendous hospitality, the passion DAY 5-6 LISBON Olissippo Lapa Palace of the flamenco, and exclusive access to the iconic sites DAY 7-9 MADRID Hotel Villa Magna of two storied countries will inspire your soul. DAY 10-11 CORDOBA/ Hotel Palacio de los Patos GRANADA DAY 12 -13 SEVILLE Hotel Alfonso XIII DAY 14 DEPARTURE

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR VISIT WWW.KERDOWNEY.COM. debuting march 2013 PRESENTS icons of Portugal & Spain featuring porto, douro, lisbon, madrid, cordoba, granada, seville

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR VISIT WWW.KERDOWNEY.COM. vol. 5, issue 1 www.kerdowney.com

Correspondence / Personal Stories

Notes from East Africa When preparing to travel there are naturally certain expectations and even some hesitations about discovering an unfamiliar part of the big, beautiful world. Ker & Downey guests often find that preconceived notions are turned on their heads, as did Brigitte B. and Mike F. of New Jersey, who have graciously shared their journey with us.

The essentials pretty serious uphill hike. It was Where was your worth it – we ended up in a very What lasting favorite place to secluded area with amazing impression did you stay? mountain waterfalls falling into a leave with? pond. We were able to hang out We had an amazing trip and there for a long time and swim, it It was Mike’s first trip to Africa, loved all the places we stayed, was a special experience. and he was nervous about many but Sirikoi Game Lodge in the things: safety, organization, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and the idea of “roughing it” definitely stands out. It was a What most in the wild. We quickly learned relaxed environment and the surprised you on that “roughing it” with Ker & conservation efforts impressed Downey is a joke! We were both us so much that we decided your journey? completely astounded. Mike to become supporters of the The most surprising thing really fell in love and by day two Conservancy after we got was the infrastructure and on safari he was already planning home. The food at Singita Faru how organized everything our return trip. There is a saying: Faru was mind-blowing – on was at the airports, even in “Once you have a grain of sand the way home we joked that hectic circumstances. At the in your shoe, you’ll always go we’d have gone there if it was Kilimanjaro airport we had a back,” and this will be true for only a restaurant! We spent our quick connection to make us again and again. We were The basics afternoons on the deck with but due to the arrival of the so happy to have shared the big platters of a little sample of Tanzanian president and all the experience together. When was your trip? everything from the kitchen. fanfare related to that, we were September 2012 Between that and the game severely delayed. The ground drives, we never even got to try crew found us and literally hand- out the pool that we swooned delivered us to our next flight! Where did you go? over in photos! That would never happen in the Mt. Kenya, Kenya; Ngorongoro Carter and States – you’d miss your flight the Serengeti, Tanzania. and that would be that. We got What was the best the same treatment for every part of your trip? flight throughout the trip, it was Who did you travel with? surprisingly efficient. At Sirikoi we were taken on a Just the two of us. private “walk” that turned into a

"We were both completely astounded. Mike really fell in love and by day two on safari he was already planning our return trip."

We want to hear from our travelers: If you’ve taken a life-changing journey with Ker & Downey, we want to hear about it! Drop us a line at [email protected] or send an email to your Travel Professional and let us know what you loved about your trip and what changed your life.

16 ker & downey AIR NEW ZEALAND

QANTAS

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

CATHAY PACIFIC

EMIRATES AIRLINE

QATAR AIRWAYS

TURKISH AIRWAYS

BRITISH AIRWAYS

SOUTH AFRICA AIRWAYS

LAN AIRLINES

TAM AIRLINES

ROYAL AIR MAROC

When reserving your custom land arrangements with Ker & Downey, please ask about our incredible airfare rates. Our experts partner with the best to ensure a comfortable and luxurious journey in transit. Forget the hassles: obtain premium seating at great rates, accrue mileage where available, and get the peace- of-mind of lenient cancellation policies. Contact our air department at 1-800-423-4236 to get started. AIR PHOTO: SINGAPORE AIRLINES vol. 5, issue 1 www.kerdowney.com President's Letter

ravel has its share of rewards and frustrations. This past September my wife and I were traveling through Tanzania, where I was hoping to knock off one of my bucket list items: fishing for tiger fish in the Malagarasi River of western Tanzania. Unfortunately, we had to change plans and decided instead to spend some days in the Lemai Wedge region in the northern Serengeti. My negative feelings quickly Tturned positive as we got lost in the amazing scenery and wildlife of the diverse area. The locations in this edition of BESPOKE – Tanzania, Congo, Mozambique, New Zealand, Brazil, Zambia, and Scotland –can cause travel headaches that are beyond anyone’s control. Just think back to a flight you missed in the States, and then picture that missed flight being in an unfamiliar place like the Congo or Mozambique! As seasoned travelers, we like to think that we’re the intrepid ones where these little headaches are concerned, but faraway locations with fewer flights tend to add to the drama. I myself am a rather nervous sort when it comes to traveling. For that reason, when we send clients on any of our bespoke adventures, whether they’re headed to the Malagarasi River or the Highlands of Scotland, we make sure that they’re met off the airplane and escorted through immigration and customs wherever possible. Those VIP stalls at passport control? They aren’t just for government bigwigs! Ker & Downey clients enjoy them as well. And while on your trip, if something unexpected happens, we’ll take care of it. If you’re a nervous traveler like me, I’m sure you’ll appreciate the extra attention.

This February, I had the privilege of participating in a workshop on the development of Gorongosa National Park in Mozambique. Gorongosa was once known as Africa’s Eden due to the quantity and variety of large mammals in residence. The Mozambique civil war of the 1970s practically wiped out all the animals, and poachers soon took those that were left. Enter Greg Carr, a guy with a vision to restore the park to its former glory. In early 2004 he started translocating game into the park from other areas in an effort to build up the depleted herds. He also began developing a science lab on site and brought in researchers and scientists to assist him in executing in his vision. In July of this year, a new Asilia luxury lodge will open to start rekindling tourism in the park, and Ker & Downey has made a commitment to the park’s rebirth and success. Look for more news of this great adventure on our website and in our e-newsletters. Want to be one of the first to meet with researchers and do hands-on research? Contact us. We’ll make it happen – it’s what we do.

David Marek President ker & downey

philanthropic journeys: Learn how to get involved with Ker & Downey’s philanthropy projects while traveling at www.kerdowney.com/philanthropy

18 ker & downey KICKING AROUND Several of the boys at the Home of Hope play in local youth football clubs.

philanthropy A Home of Hope The Uganda Home of Hope Foundation provides a safe haven for children in Kampala, Uganda.

When things go south for a family in Uganda, there is no subsidized assistance to support them. Worse yet, children often have no social worker to advocate on their behalf when a parent turns abusive or is overcome by an illness. The only choices for a child who wants to escape are to stay or to go, and to go often means going into the streets and into an unstable life that makes them vulnerable to a new array of abuses and dangers. Education, socialization, and the childhood luxury of play all take a backseat to survival, and the cycle often repeats itself, if the child is lucky enough to endure life on his or her own.

ker & downey 19 WELCOME HOME Founded in July 2012, the Uganda Home of protected and nurtured by the kindness of the staff Ker & Downey’s Hope Foundation was born out of a necessity to and volunteers in Uganda, and the generosity of David and Gana Marek visit with the serve a growing population of street children in donors abroad. children at Uganda’s Kampala. Supported by a handful of benefactors Home of Hope. and spearheaded by Executive Director Marinka Ker & Downey is happy to support the Uganda (RIGHT) UHHF’s Sanc-George, the foundation arranged for many of Home of Hope Foundation via donations of youngest resident strikes a pose in the the children to be transferred out of the care of an supplies and monetary contributions. To learn Home’s backyard. overcrowded organization in Kampala and into a how you can get involved with this worthwhile new facility with more room to grow. project, contact us at [email protected] or The majority of UHHF’s 23 students attend visit the Philanthropy tab of our website, Cityland College, a private boarding school in www.kerdowney.com. Wakiso Town. At the close of each term, the children are bused to the Home to spend their holidays. While they enjoy a break from studies and sometimes visit their families, the staff prepares for their return to school by gathering "The Home of Hope is a books, classroom supplies, uniforms, shoes, and toiletries – all things that must be provided above place where children can and beyond tuition fees. These needs are met only with support from abroad. put the worries of home The Home of Hope is a place where children can put the worries of home and the responsibilities of and the responsibilities school out of their minds for a few months of the year. It’s a place where Kenneth and Enock can of school out of their be football-loving boys and spend hours kicking around in the dirt yard; where Alice can escape the minds for a few months harsh physical and emotional abuse from her father and realize her dream of an education; where all the of the year." children can learn to cook, develop basic computer skills, and cooperate as friends and family. UHHF allows the children it supports to truly just be kids,

20 ker & downey ker & downey 21 BE A CAVE DWELLER AT THE LUXURIOUS ARGOS IN CAPPADOCIA, LOCATED AT A RESTORED signature MONASTERY BUILT WITHIN SECRET CAVES. CAPPADOCIA’S MAGICAL LANDSCAPE IS ALMOST LUNAR, HAVING BEEN FORMED BY VOLCANIC ACTIVITY, WINDS, AND EROSION. FOR OVER A MILLENNIA THIS NETWORK OF CAVES AND SPIRALING “CHIMNEYS” HAS BEEN HOME TO REFUGEES AND NOMADS OUT OF TURKEY SECURITY AND NECESSITY, AND TODAY HAS ISTANBUL CAPTIVATED INTERNATIONAL VISITORS WITH ITS UNBELIEVABLE STORY. SEE THE INCREDIBLE CAPPADOCIA HISTORY AND MODERN BEAUTY CONVERGE ON THIS 10 DAY JOURNEY THROUGH SIGNATURE KUSADASI TURKEY, ONLY FROM KER & DOWNEY. BODRUM THERE IS NO OTHER PLACE ON EARTH LIKE CAPPADOCIA, AND ITS “FAIRY CHIMNEYS” WILL LEAVE YOU SPELLBOUND.

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT OR VISIT WWW.KERDOWNEY.COM EXPLORE THE NETWORK OF UNDERGROUND CITIES WHERE ANTIQUITY’S CHRISTIANS HID FROM ROMAN PERSECUTION. BE A CAVE DWELLER AT THE LUXURIOUS ARGOS IN CAPPADOCIA, LOCATED AT A RESTORED signature MONASTERY BUILT WITHIN SECRET CAVES. CAPPADOCIA’S MAGICAL LANDSCAPE IS ALMOST LUNAR, HAVING BEEN FORMED BY VOLCANIC ACTIVITY, WINDS, AND EROSION. FOR OVER A MILLENNIA THIS NETWORK OF CAVES AND SPIRALING “CHIMNEYS” HAS BEEN HOME TO REFUGEES AND NOMADS OUT OF TURKEY SECURITY AND NECESSITY, AND TODAY HAS ISTANBUL CAPTIVATED INTERNATIONAL VISITORS WITH ITS UNBELIEVABLE STORY. SEE THE INCREDIBLE CAPPADOCIA HISTORY AND MODERN BEAUTY CONVERGE ON THIS 10 DAY JOURNEY THROUGH SIGNATURE KUSADASI TURKEY, ONLY FROM KER & DOWNEY. BODRUM THERE IS NO OTHER PLACE ON EARTH LIKE CAPPADOCIA, AND ITS “FAIRY CHIMNEYS” WILL LEAVE YOU SPELLBOUND.

With the persistence of conservationists and the protected status of Mozambique’s Gorongosa National Park, wildlife populations continue to rebound, and the natural beauty is flourishing once again. In July 2013 Asilia Africa will debut Kubatana Camp, a luxury tented retreat that harkens back to a vintage safari experience en- joyed by international travelers in the 1960s.

24 ker & downey PARADISE REDISCOVERED Treks and drives at Gorongosa National Park reveal secret waterfalls and rebounding wildlife.

At the Southern end of Africa’s Great Rift antelopes, and zebras, while the rain forest at the top of Valley, Gorongosa National Park is an area of unparalleled Mount Gorongosa is home to unique species that cannot natural diversity. In its heyday in the 1960s and 1970s, be found anywhere else on earth, such as the recently this park was home to the greatest population of lions on discovered Mount Gorongosa pygmy chameleon. the African continent, and the destination of choice for Kubatana Camp sits in a private concession on the safari enthusiasts such as John Wayne and Ava Gardner. bank of the Mussicadzi River, shaded by large fever trees However, Mozambique’s civil war took its toll on the and comprised of six spacious tents, each with en suite wildlife, and by the time peace was declared, Gorongosa bathrooms and outdoor bucket showers. The camp is was just a shadow of its former self. authentic yet stylish, with touches that take you back to An ambitious restoration project, funded by American Gorongosa’s golden era of the 1960s. Guests may enjoy philanthropist Greg Carr in partnership with Gorongosa an evening watching vintage safari footage or flicking National Park, has brought this park back to life. The through photo albums. They can explore the park through groundbreaking work and dedication of Gorongosa game drives, walks, and boating safaris. But a safari in National Park and the Gorongosa Restoration Project Gorongosa will also afford the unique opportunity to have ensured that Gorongosa is again one of Africa’s most contribute to the restoration project – a chance to be exciting wilderness experiences – with even brighter part of rare-species relocations or get involved in a game prospects for the future. census. This is sustainable tourism in action. A safari in Gorongosa shows what happens when nature is given a chance to rebound. After just a few For more information about customizing your own years, Gorongosa is well on its way to becoming, once journey to Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, or again, “the place where Noah left his Ark." Lake Urema any other destination, contact your travel professional is home to crocodiles and hippos, the floodplains of or visit www.kerdowney.com. the Pongwe river system teem with waterbucks, sable

ker & downey 25 Livingstone Lives A tribute to David Livingstone: pioneer, humanitarian, and the man who discovered one of Africa’s greatest natural wonders, Victoria Falls. Follow in his footsteps at Royal Chundu on the Zambezi, and On see the beauty of the Falls for yourself.

26 ker & downey The Zambezi River spills over Victoria Falls, “The Smoke that Thunders.”

ker & downey 27 David Livingstone in 1860.

28 ker & downey This year marks the 200th birthday of Scottish missionary and explorer David Livingstone, who traversed the width of southern Africa and hap- pened upon Victoria Falls, one of the great wonders of the natural world. As we celebrate his birthday, we remember how instrumental Livingstone was in opening up the interior of Africa and the mighty Victoria Falls to the Western world. Born on March 19, 1813 in a Glasgow slum, in – this drive would characterize the rest of his life. David Livingstone grew up with a bleak-looking Resolved to leave the appalling living and work- future. He, like most working-class children of the ing conditions of industrial Britain and empowered time, would almost assuredly follow in his parents’ by his education, Livingstone entered Anderson footsteps as a factory worker. By age 10 he was College at age 19 and studied medicine with the working in the factory for 10 hours a day, six days a hope of becoming an overseas missionary. The week – grueling work that left little time for study- London Missionary Society trained him as a pastor, ing. Seeking to improve the education of the young and in 1841, at age 28, he landed at the Kuruman working class, the Scottish church began teaching mission station in the Northern Cape province of children on Sundays. Young Livingstone showed South Africa. There he met his wife, Mary, daughter determination in his studies, teaching himself Lat- of Robert Moffat, the founder of the Kuruman mission station. David and Mary moved to Mabotsa, Botswana, where they lived and worked for 10 years without a single recorded convert. Despite his lack of success, Living- stone’s spirit was not diminished, and he became determined to find a better way to spread Christianity in Africa. He chose to serve the Makalolo people who lived in the Linyanti area, one of the most remote locations in Africa. Since his new home was bordered by the Kalahari Desert to the south and impassable for eight to 10 months of the year, Livingstone embarked on a quest for a trade route into Linyanti that could be used year-round. He reached the western coast and determined that the trek was too difficult for a sustainable trade route, so he re- traced his steps back to Linyanti and set out east along the Zambezi River, eventually arriving to the east coast. His journey took four years and ended with 6,000 miles of uncharted terri- tory, including most of the Zambezi, having been mapped by hand, and Liv- THEN AND NOW Archival drawings from Livingstone’s expedition, compared to a view of Victoria Falls today.

…he would later write that a “sight so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

ker & downey 29 Private thatched villas overlook the Zambezi at Royal Chundu.

30 ker & downey Find a window to the river from every spot in your Royal Chundu suite.

ker & downey 31 ingstone becoming the first European to traverse views. southern Africa. It was also during this journey For a more intimate getaway, the exclusive Is- that Livingstone came across Victoria Falls, which land Lodge is located on the private Katamura Is- he named after his sovereign, and about which he land and is reached by a short boat ride from the would later write that a “sight so lovely must have main lodge. Surrounded by river channels and been gazed upon by angels in their flight.” jackalberry trees, the four villas have private decks, open-air bathrooms, glass-walled showers, and The indigenous name for Victoria Falls, large, cozy beds. Mosi-oa-Tunya, means “Smoke that Thunders,” Beyond the drama of the falls, the Zambezi is and this effect is undoubtedly one of the most alive with various wildlife, including abundant spectacular characteristics of the falls. Livingstone hippopotamuses, crocodiles, African fish eagles, recounted his first exposure to the sight in his jour- egrets, and herons. A sunset river cruise provides nal: “We came into sight, for the first time, of the the perfect opportunity to relax while keeping an columns of vapor appropriately called ‘smoke’… eye out for elephants and buffalo on the banks, and The tops of the columns at this distance appeared hippopotamuses and crocodiles emerging from the to mingle with the clouds. They were white be- river for a breath of air. low, and higher up became dark, so as to simulate The river breathes life into the region, with ca- smoke very closely. The whole scene was extremely noeing and excellent fly- beautiful.” The mile-wide Zambezi River plum- fishing possible. A short mo- meting 350 feet into a chasm that separates Zambia koro ride to a local village and Zimbabwe creates this stunning display. Half a lets guests interact with vil- (LEFT) Explorer century after Livingstone stumbled upon the falls, lagers as they go about their Henry Morton the Victoria Falls Bridge was constructed, open- daily tasks. Guides are well Stanley greets David ing them to tourism. Today the falls are counted educated in local customs and Livingstone in an traditions and can provide in- African village. (RIGHT CLOCK- sight into making necessities WISE) A romantic such as soap, cooking oil, and place to retire; a medicines from plants and dramatic rendition herbs. of Livingstone being attacked by a lion; Guests of Royal Chundu the sparkling pool at dine on traditional pan-Afri- Royal Chundu’s main can and Zambian dishes pre- lounge; Russell Gam- pared by the executive chef in mon, an authority on Victoria Falls. the intimate outdoor boma. Fresh, local ingredients bring out Zambian flavors to reflect the heritage of the region. Indeed, it is a region steeped in history and wonder that goes back much farther than 150 years. The glory of Mosi-oa-Tunya captivated David Living- stone and has been captivating travelers ever since. When visiting Victoria Falls with Ker & Downey, you have the chance to experience this wonder with Russell Gammon, the foremost authority on among the Natural Wonders of the World, have Livingstone and the falls. A native of Zimbabwe been named to the UNESCO World Heritage list, with 25 years of guiding for the likes of National and continue to be among the must-see sights for Geographic and the Smithsonian Institute under visitors to southern Africa. his belt, Gammon will paint the perfect picture of This magnificent region and the spectacle of na- Livingstone’s journey on a private tour. ture’s raw power can be witnessed as they were through Livingstone’s eyes at the lodges of Royal As we celebrate the life of David Livingstone, we Chundu. On nine miles of private waterway along are grateful for a man whose determination led him the banks of the Zambezi River, and just a short across southern Africa and introduced the world to drive from the magnificent falls, Royal Chundu Victoria Falls so that we, like the angels, might gaze provides guests the opportunity to explore the sur- upon their beauty. rounding area and falls as the explorer did 150 years ago. The two luxurious lodges of Royal Chundu, the For more information about customizing your River Lodge and the Island Lodge, sit on the con- own journey to Victoria Falls, Zambia, or any oth- vergence of Zambia and Zimbabwe between Chobe er destination, contact your travel professional or National Park and Victoria Falls. At the main River visit www.kerdowney.com. Lodge, 10 spacious river-front suites look out onto the Zambezi, and private decks provide spectacular

The Zambezi River breathes life into the region, with canoe- ing and excellent fly-fishing possible at Royal Chundu.

32 ker & downey ker & downey 33 whisky: Scotland's In his 1880 poem "The Scotsman’s Return from Abroad", Robert Louis Steven- son declared whisky "the king o' drinks” and connoisseurs of fine spirits agree. There is no better place to experience the world’s finest whiskies – and the stories behind them – than Scotland.

34 ker & downey water of life

Bunnahabhain distillery’s view of the Sound of Islay.

ker & downey 35 36 ker & downey share some 1,000 square miles, cranking out whiskies that go into household names like Chivas Regal and Johnnie Walker, and also producing the world’s top two single-malts, Glenlivet and Glenfiddich. The former survived turbulent years during the Great Depression to become instrumental in Great Britain’s economic recovery Usquebaugh: the water of life. Sure it’s after World War II by exporting to its thirsty water, happily enhanced with a little peat, grain, neighbors across the Atlantic, and today remains yeast, and time, aged for years and even decades the best-selling malt whisky in the United States. until its golden hue is just so, its aroma singing Cardhu Distillery produces its namesake brand from the mouth of a tumbler. Of all the world's as well as the family of Johnnie Walker blends varieties, whisky can’t be labeled “scotch” unless – a rainbow of red, black, green, gold, and the it’s made in Scotland, a distinction reserved for coveted blue, all of which can be sampled after an the bevy of brands produced in more than 125 exclusive behind-the-scenes tour of the distillery. distilleries across the country. Each region has Interestingly, Cardhu also helped give birth to one its own unique nuances in flavor, from smoky to of its competitors – Glenfiddich founder William fruity to woodsy, and for lovers of fine spirits, Grant purchased the old stills from Cardhu in nothing compares to sampling the world’s best 1885 and put them to work one year later. Today with a view over the Scottish countryside. at Glenfiddich, rum casks from the Caribbean, The earliest documented record of distilling in Spanish sherry butts, and Bourbon whiskey Scotland was made in 1494, but historians estimate barrels from the United States all lend themselves the art may have begun as early as 500 A.D., with to the maturation process and produce an amazing SCOTLAND BY BRAND the arrival of the Dalriadic Scots to the Isle of Mull on array of rich flavors. The oldest distillery in the Ker & Downey’s Water of Life Scotland’s western shore. Just south of Mull is the journey visits Edinburgh, the Highlands is Strathisla, founded in 1786 and noted Highlands, Speyside, and Isle of Islay, the “Queen of the Hebrides” and one for its double pagoda silhouette and original the Isle of Islay over nine of Scotland’s major whisky- cobblestone courtyard. Aside from being visually indulgent days. producing regions. Eight stunning, it also has the distinction of being the distilleries are in operation birthplace of world-renowned Chivas Regal and today, and as many as 23 its 12-, 18-, and 25-year-old blends. Although were active simultaneously founded by different families and using unique WHISKY WONDERS in past centuries. Established recipes, the whiskies of Speyside reveal a web of (LEFT CLOCK- in 1779, Bowmore is the interconnectivity. Ownerships have changed and WISE) Strathisla distillery’s historic eldest of the bunch, with the storms of two World Wars have been weathered, double pagodas; the capacity to produce two but a common ground of tradition and innovation the Balmoral Hotel’s million liters annually. The landmark clock peat of the nearby Laggan tower in Edinburgh; whisky in progress River serves as the natural at the Glenfiddich filter for this whisky, giving distillery; the amber it a smooth and full-bodied glow of Scotland’s taste. Farther to the west, whiskies. Kilchoman is the island’s ISLANDS youngest distillery, and its traditional floor-malting techniques and “Islay-only” processes of growing barley, SPEYSIDE malting, distilling, aging, and bottling, have quickly CARDHU made it a unique and highly desirable brand. On GLENLIVET GLENFIDDICH the island’s northeast coast there’s Bunnahabhain, TALISKER STRATHISLA along with a town of the same name that was born DALWHINNIE out of a need to house distillery workers in the 19th HIGHLANDS century. The rugged coastal scenery here makes for a nice panorama as you sample the distillery’s offerings; the ruined wreck of the Wyre Majestic sitting atop the rocks is a reminder that the magnificent shores are deceptive and treacherous. Islay itself is as diverse as the whole of Scotland’s CAMPBELTON distilleries. As tasters travel north to south across the 239-square-mile island, the flavors change ISLAY from mild and light to intense and peaty, with BUNNAHABHAIN brands produced in the south considered the BOWMORE KILCHOMAN strongest in the country. The same wide range of flavors can be found LOWLANDS in Speyside, a hotbed of whisky production in Scotland’s northeast. More than 50 distilleries

ker & downey 37 ... a fantastic private cruise on the infamous Loch Ness with a spread of fresh seafood and an incredible view of true Highland beauty.

38 ker & downey Visit the ruined Urquhart Castle on the waters of Loch Ness.

ker & downey 39 bind the generations who have prospered thanks the beverage company Diageo, a major player in to the water of life. During the annual Spirit of today’s whisky industry, purchased the collection Speyside Whisky Festival, held May 2 to 6 in 2013, and had each bottle shipped back to its homeland the region’s distilleries throw open their doors – an estimated 2 million–pound investment in for a whirlwind week that celebrates the food, national posterity. To date there are 3,384 varieties culture, history, and of course the spirits that have sitting untouched in a state-of-the-art glass- shaped the way of life here. walled vault. Among the thousands of unique The distilleries of the Highlands range beyond finds: a bottle of Johnnie Walker Blue autographed Speyside, and most notable among these is by Grand Prix driver Juan Pablo Montoya, one Dalwhinnie, the highest in elevation of its of only 69 Strathmill single malts produced to brothers. Private tastings of its creations feature celebrate Speyside Distillery’s centenary, and the acclaimed 15-year-old, described as a smooth a special edition of Dimple Pinch purchased for and medium-bodied treat. On the famed Isle of $1,000 in 1969. Beyond its impressive display and Skye, Talisker reigns as the lone distillery, an sheer volume, the collection is a panorama of the operation that at one time paid for its lease with industry that has come to define Scotland. Ker & Downey’s Water of Life excursion is a pilgrimage to Mecca for the whisky connoisseur, More than 50 Speyside as well as for those with the basest of appreciation distilleries share some 1,000 for the handcrafted treat. Guests are chauffeured on a journey through the countryside to Speyside square miles, cranking out and Islay, with ample opportunities to take in whiskies used to craft household names the historical sites and imbibe along the way. like Chivas Regal and Johnnie Walker. Experience a fantastic private cruise on the infamous Loch Ness with a spread of fresh seafood and an incredible view of true Highland beauty. annual 10-gallon casks of its distinctive spirit Bed down in picturesque Gregorian estates, delivered to clan leaders. Talisker’s seven ages enjoying private visits to castles and ruins on a are less peaty than its cousins on Islay, instead journey that blends the charm of yesteryear with

ROLL OUT THE BARREL emphasizing a smoky, spicy flavor. the storied past and promising future of whisky in Workers at Bun- Scotland. nahabhain distillery Edinburgh’s Scotch Whisky Experience transport precious displays thousands of the finest and rarest scotch For more information about customizing your cargo. (RIGHT) A sea of casks wait on the whiskies in the world, surprisingly, by way of Brazil. own journey to Scotland or any other destination, Isle of Islay. The collection was started in earnest by Brazilian contact your travel professional or visit businessman Claive Vidiz in 1973 and was curated www.kerdowney.com. and treasured over the next 35 years. In 2008

40 ker & downey ker & downey 41 Night falls on Rio de Janeiro.

42 ker & downey 2014 World Cup Preview

In the 10 years since it was announced that Brazil would host the 20th FIFA World Cup, the whole country has been preparing for a party. And in the capital of Carnival, you know they know how to celebrate. Brazil last hosted the event in 1950, and this will be the first World Cup in South America since 1978, when Argentina played host to football fanatics. For Brazil and South America, this is a moment to shine. For football enthusiasts in North America, this is a golden opportunity to see the world’s best compete for the ultimate prize without the hassle of a transatlantic flight or losing a day to jet lag.

There’s just a little more than a year to go before the monthlong international battle for bragging rights begins, and if you want to experience the spectacle that comes with the World Cup, listen up. You’re among the first to see Ker & Downey’s exclusive travel packages to Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, including luxury accommodations, private transportation, and local tours to fill your time between matches. Watch the final exciting matches held in the two cities, including the finale in Rio, with Ker & Downey’s exclusive accommodation and ticket packages.

Staying in Style: The Four Most- Coveted PLUS Spots to watch the World Cup unfold. Including: copacabana palace fasano rio Fasano São Paulo Buzios Villa

ker & downey 43 44 ker & downey Rio de Janeiro Fasano Rio

A modern hotel and one of the youngest in the city, the Fasano Hotel on Ipanema Beach is the first project to be envisioned from scratch by renowned designer Philippe Starck. From the entrance where you’ll be greeted by friendly staff behind a counter created from a giant pekia tree trunk to the use of exquisite materials from all across the globe, the Fasano provides the utmost in luxury in one of Rio’s most fashionable areas. room options: Deluxe Ocean View Room + Superior Room (Four person package) from $420,000 Suite + Deluxe Ocean View Room (Four person package) from $600,000

what to do: your entourage: matches included:

Copacabana Beach Private concierge Final round match June 28 Sugarloaf Mountain Exclusive Mercedes Sprinter van Semifinal match July 5 Corcovado Mountain and the Statue of Christ Final match July 13 Santa Tereza arts neighborhood Private boat tour to Angra dos Reis islands Bike tours Nature trekking Samba dancing lessons Cooking classes

ker & downey 45 46 ker & downey Rio de Janeiro Copacabana Palace

Right on Copacabana beach, the Copacabana Palace is one of South America's most famous hotels, providing glamorous and luxurious accommodations since 1923. It’s been the hotel of choice for the rich and famous for decades and has become an icon of the city, upholding its reputation of exemplary service, exquisite cuisine, and opulence throughout. room options: Ocean View Suite + City View Suite (Four person package) from $440,000

what to do: your entourage: matches included:

ker & downey 47 48 ker & downey São Paulo Fasano São Paulo

Ideally located between the business districts of Avenida Paulista and Faria Lima, in the heart of the exclusive Jardins neighborhood, the hotel is steps away from São Paulo’s prime shopping area. With personalized service that’s accommodating yet discreet, the Fasano São Paulo caters to discerning travelers. Guests can enjoy the inviting accommodations and relax by the hotel’s exquisite spa and rooftop swimming pool. room options: Deluxe Room + Superior Room (Four person package) from $352,000 what to do: your entourage: matches included:

Shopping in the Jardins or Vila Madalena Private concierge Final round match July 1 neighborhoods Exclusive Mercedes Sprinter van Semifinal match July 9 Visits with modern designers and artisans Historic tours and museums Private tour to local coffee farm

ker & downey 49 50 ker & downey Ferradura Beach Buzios Villa

Set on the top of a hill at Praia da Ferradura in Búzios, this modern beach home makes guests feel comfortable enough to relax and enjoy the outdoors, without forsaking good design. Its impressive architecture highlights amazing views throughout the house, of both the bay and the open ocean. While wood, natural fibers, and cool tones are predominant, the Sami Hilal artwork on the living room wall sets the tone of the house: simple sophistication.

room options: Four bedroom villa (Eight person package) from $720,000

what to do: your entourage: matches included

Rent a beach buggy and explore dozens of Private concierge Final round match June 28 beaches Full staff at the villa Semifinal match July 5 Movie night in your private home theater Private helicopter transfers from Final match July 13 Swimming pool and Jacuzzi Rio de Janeiro Lounge by the beach ker & downey 51 Into the Unknown Blazing a trail through less-traveled African destinations

52 ker & downey Lango Camp’s front yard of Odzala marsh and savanna.

The Republic of the Congo may very well be Africa’s best-kept secret. Abundant wildlife and dense, virtually uninhabited rain forests reign in the north, creating a haven for a myriad of primate species and a truly untamed wilderness for the very adventurous. In October 2012 Ker & Downey’s own pioneering spirit, Vice President of Operations Reid Bader, set off to explore this new frontier and visit another unfamiliar wildlife haven, the Lamai Triangle in Tanzania’s northern Serengeti.

ker & downey 53 Ker & Downey’s Congo is miles from anything one might see on news reports from the region – more than 900 miles if we’re counting. The Republic of the Congo is a small, stable democracy separate from the more turbulent Democratic Republic of the Congo, and Odzala-Kokoua National Park is far removed from the more populated regions in the south.

The northern rain forests of the Congo had wondered into the frame of a painting. The Basin form the second largest collection of rain park is home to 16 species of primates, including forests in the world, second only to the Amazon. chimpanzees, black-and-white colobuses, mang- This is Joseph Conrad’s Africa, the Dark Heart of abeys, and western lowland gorillas. The gorillas the continent that still remains wild and rugged. are new enough to habituation to be more cautious There are no trails here, no paths cut between than the larger silverbacks and mountain goril- acres of marshy high grasses and lush marantace- las of Rwanda and Uganda. Forest elephants and ae. There are also no roads – preparing for this trek buffalo are among the other wildlife found here, is not unlike preparing for a duck hunt in a back- distinguished from their cousins elsewhere on the woods marsh. High-water waders will serve you continent by their smaller statures and horns and well. The only trails you’ll find have been forged by tusks that have adapted to the jungle surround- the animals, like an “elephant highway” through a ings, curling back behind the buffaloes’ heads and swath of thick mud, a route so deteriorated when pointing down toward the elephants’ feet to avoid compared to its forested surroundings that it ap- snagging on the tangle of trees. pears to have seen thousands of years and untold The attraction of Odzala is the high concentra- numbers of rough gray feet. tion of bais, clearings in the woods with salt-rich Surprises are plenty on a trek through the un- soils that harbor a variety of plants that prove irre- ODZALA EXPLORERS cut foliage, and guides and researchers know this sistible. These clearings are not unlike shadowbox Western lowland jungle as a second home. They’re in tune with the dioramas of the forest, giving visitors a front-row gorillas can’t resist flora, fauna, and the subtle signs that, yes, there seat to activity that would otherwise be shrouded the marantaceae; will be activity ahead. Frasier, the guide who ac- by dense foliage. Ornithologists will be awestruck Reid Bader after an excursion. companied Reid on his trip, seemed to have a by the more than 400 bird species that call the (right) Following sixth sense fixed on the wildlife of the area. As park home. Frasier on a wet trail they were trekking, Frasier stopped the group and Odzala is experienced in two sections at two in Odzala-Kokoua conjured a Narina Trogan out of the thick green- fantastic camps, both having just opened in 2012. National Park. ery to land on a particularly attractive branch just Lango Camp lies where the savanna meets the above their heads. This is the kind of magic one marsh on the edges of the Likoli and Mambili can expect from Odzala: elusive birds and curi- Rivers. Ngaga Camp, the second you will visit, ous creatures appearing all of a sudden as if they is raised on wooden platforms and walkways to

54 ker & downey ker & downey 55 Exclusive luxury over a marantaceae field at Ngaga Camp.

56 ker & downey ker & downey 57 58 ker & downey capture views of a bai just beyond. The camps are during the camp’s conception: Power is all solar- identical in construction, both having been crafted generated, and natural and recycled building ma- from locally sourced natural materials, bamboo, terials add to the sustainable design. sustainable hardwoods, and raffia matting. The Singita’s fingerprint of opulence is on every B’Aka Pygmy groups have inspired the architec- feature at the camp, from the exceptional team of ture of the spaces, each round in design with one gourmet chefs who serve fine dishes along with wall left open to act as your window into the wild. homemade ice creams and smoothies, to the in- Reid remarked that his window was a television of credible plunge pool at the main tent overlook- sorts – a 24-hour National Geographic special on ing the river. While it’s possible to while away Odzala. the hours wrapped in the comforts of camp, a trip Not only does the camps’ isolation make for an into the bush in open-sided vehicles should not intimate experience, but they offer a staff that is be avoided. Lamai is teeming with resident plains genuinely friendly and truly happy to welcome game and big cats, and the Mara is home to hippos visitors, as they live most of the year in the quiet and crocodiles, ensuring a show on land and in the solitude of the park. Meals at both camps meet ex- acting standards, with French cuisine prepared by a classically trained chef – just another surprise in There are no trails here, no paths the middle of nowhere. cut between acres of marshy high The second leg of Reid’s adventure took grasses and lush marantaceae. So too there him to Tanzania, where he previewed the newest in are no roads - preparing for this trek is a long line of outstanding Singita properties – the Mara River Tented Camp. This is the only camp on not unlike preparing for the river, situated to offer visitors an unmatched a duck hunt in a backwoods marsh. view of the Great Migration. Mara River Tented Camp is positioned so that a game drive isn’t even necessary – simply look out from the teak decks water for guests who want to explore. of any of the six luxury tents to watch the scene. As a first primate experience, a trip to Odzala While spectacular, this seasonal main attraction is will enchant and spoil you. Ker & Downey’s Ulti- not the be-all and end-all for the camp. Resident mate Africa journey gives you a peek at the diverse game is abundant year-round, and Reid saw two environments that shelter Africa’s primates in the lion kills on his trip. Congo Basin and Rwanda’s mountains, plus the More than 98,000 acres of wilderness surround spectacle of the Great Migration in the Serengeti. RIVERSIDE SPLENDOR the camp in the Lamai Triangle of the northern This 22-day jaunt from Odzala to Rwanda to the (left) Sundowners Serengeti, and with the blessing of the Tanzanian Serengeti is well suited to the adventuresome who at the river are government, Singita pounced upon this little- are looking to forge into the wilderness and take in unforgettable. (below) An known region of the park to offer discerning trav- a panorama of Africa’s many varied locales. elephant greeting elers the only luxury tented option in the Lamai. in the northern Cécile & Boyd’s Interior Design crafted spaces For more information about customizing your Serengeti; sharp alive with contemporary African design elements own journey to Odzala-Kokoua, the Lamai Trian- interiors courtesy of Cécile & Boyd’s. and vintage-inspired furnishings. A minimum gle, or any other destination, contact your travel environmental impact was of utmost importance professional or visit www.kerdowney.com.

ker & downey 59 Exploring Tanzania In his own words, Ker & Downey President David Marek recalls his jaunt through Tanzania – an incredible adventure of unexpected wildlife and unrivaled luxury on the edge of the Great Migration.

60 ker & downey You can see for miles from the pool at Singita Sasakwa Lodge.

ker & downey 61 62 ker & downey September 2012 found my wife, Gana, and the animals, and the blanket of stars at night. During me headed to Tanzania, our “reward” after complet- our stay we embarked on game drives, safari walks, ing an emotionally draining two weeks at a medical and night drives, and we sat in elevated tree “houses” mission in Uganda, handing out 12,000 mosquito over water holes. One of the highlights for me was nets and assisting doctors and nurses who saw more walking with Brad through the bush and ending up at than 20,000 sickly individuals – most of them wom- a magnificent rock structure with a water hole down en and children. The dichotomy of this trip was going below, a place that happens to be the site of Mwiba’s to slap us in the face: One day we were surround- next lodge. As we walked up, we surprised a leopard ed by 5,000 desperate people just wanting to give drinking at the water hole – two strides and he was their children a chance at life, and the next we were gone. We sat on top of the outcropping and imagined wrapped in the soothing views of Mount Meru at the herds of buffalo below drinking at the water hole, all Legendary Coffee Lodge. But we’ve been confronted the while looking toward the endless savanna in the with the realities of travel in Africa many times. In distance. Africa one can go from utter despair to ultimate lux- Mwiba Camp is a six-bed property overlooking a ury in a heartbeat. We were eager to begin the “ulti- water hole. Each luxury tent has its own private en- mate luxury” portion of the trip, which would take suite bathroom with a flush toilet, double basins, us from the Legendary Coffee Lodge to Mwiba Camp; and shower, plus views from the veranda toward the then to the northern Serengeti for visits to Legend- stream below the camp. We spent many moments at ary’s mobile camp, Nomad’s Lemai Serengeti Lodge, leisure watching waterbucks, zebras, and impalas in and Asalia’s Sayari Lodge; and on to the western this stream, and even had a nighttime visitor: a cu- Serengeti and Singita’s Grumeti Reserves. rious leopard that decided to walk through camp. But before all this, we had to visit a school. Gol- The main dining tent serves three great meals a day gatha School lies at the edge of Arusha in an area of with drinks included, naturally. This camp is a must slums where homes are constructed of any discarded for anyone who wants to get away from the safari piece of tin, wood, or cardboard one can find, similar crowds. Where else can you have 300,000 acres all to other slums in any sizable African city. The school to yourself? here is supported by individuals from the United States and England, and is a testament to what can happen when dedicated people share a vision of (left) A Klipspringer visitor looks over Sayari Camp; hope. After an afternoon with the children and dis- romantic lantern-lit dinners at Singita Sabora. cussions with the staff, we were back to the luxury of the Legendary Coffee Lodge. The lodge is managed by Russell Hastings, a chef from South Africa who knows how to dish out the luxury. The setting at LCL shouts Out of Africa, especially in the dining experience: When you’re sitting on the veranda looking out over the coffee estate with a South African wine in hand, images conjured by Karen Blixen come easily to mind. The accommodations at LCL are impeccable with fresh-cut roses in each room, satellite television, and wireless Internet – little details that are enhanced by the stunning views of Mount Meru from each room. After breakfast we met Brad Hansen, our guide for the first portion of the trip. Brad was born in South Africa and came to Tanzania looking for a new adventure. Over the course of the next week I would find that Brad’s knowledge of the bush was almost as incredible as his ability to patiently put us in the right locations to capture unusual moments with animals. A Safari Air flight took our party of three to Mwiba Tented Camp in the Mwiba Wildlife Reserve. The reserve is a 300,000-acre diverse landscape of acacia forests, riverine bush, massive rock kopjes, and open savanna. The beauty of this scene is that it is all yours – it’s a private concession with just you,

ker & downey 63 The beauty of this scene is that it is all yours… with just you, the animals, and the blanket of stars at night.

David Marek captures a family portrait in the Lemai Wedge.

64 ker & downey Night falls on Rio de Janeiro.

ker & downey 65 The next stop on our trip was the Lemai Wedge area Nomad’s Lemai Serengeti has an exquisite loca- of the Serengeti, a region that got its name from the tion high on Kogakuria Kopje, netting some pretty wedge-shaped stretch of land formed by the Mara stunning views. Lemai Serengeti has just 12 rooms River on the south and the Kenyan border to the folded into and around the features of the Kopje. The north. Safari Air once again got us there quickly and lodge has a relaxed feel with whitewashed wood and efficiently, anticipating the properties we would be a minimalistic approach to decor. Meals are served in visiting: Serengeti Legendary Camp, Nomad’s Lamai the main dining room, again with outrageous views Serengeti, and Asalia’s Sayari Camp, all located just of the surrounding plains. If you like to skip the oc- south of the Mara River. Access to the Wedge is via a casional game drive and read a book or just take in the concrete river crossing that can be impassible during scene, Lemai Serengeti is your place. the rainy season. Sayari Camp lies closer to the Mara River than Game viewing in this area can be spectacular. Serengeti Legendary Camp or Lemai Serengeti. From Many people visit just for the chance of seeing a Sayari it’s only 10 minutes to the river, whereas from wildebeest river crossing, which is incredible, but either of the other properties the drive was up to travelers shouldn’t spend their days waiting on a half an hour longer. Choosing this camp means you crossing when there are so many interesting things can get to the action earlier in the morning and stay to see. On one of our morning drives Brad decided later in the evening. Sayari is a permanent camp of to continue past the 10 cars waiting at the river for a 15 tents divided into two wings. Although the largest crossing and drive into the Wedge to look for rhinos. of the three, the camp has a smaller feel thanks to its We didn’t find any, but we did spend lunchtime with two dining rooms; one for the six tents on the right a beautiful male cheetah, and while having lunch and the other for the nine tents on the left. The camp with the cheetah Brad saw something in the distance commands excellent views of the surrounding sa- that piqued his interest. We headed up a dry creek vanna, and on rare occasions the migration can be at bed and found a pride of lions lazing in the shade. your doorstep. During the heat of the day, the extra- While many tourists would have left the sighting and large and billowy tent design and the pool provided moved on in search of more active sights, Brad en- a nice respite. Sayari remains one of our favorite sa- couraged us to stay and watch these lions interact. As fari properties, made more so by the excellent couple we waited, off in the distance we saw another lion- managing it, John and Clare Upton. ess approaching us with her two little cubs in tow. There are many other properties around the Lemai There was a lot of posturing when this lioness and Wedge that we did not include on this trip. One of cubs approached the pride. Brad theorized that this my all-time favorites due to its location on the Mara female had left the pride to have her cubs, and had River is Oke Kira camp. It’s a mobile camp with all now chosen this time to introduce her new cubs to the amenities, but did I mention that it’s located their extended family. One by one the cubs moved next to the river with views of one of the crossings? from one pride member to the other, with a proud Something to consider, however, is that game drives mother finally “showing” them to the pride male. in this area must follow established tracks, whereas What a great photo op! game drives in private concessions are able to move about more freely. The three camps we visited in this area The final leg of our trip took us to Singita’s Grumeti

BUSH BEAUTY were all unique, and each had its own charm. The Reserves, where we stayed at Sabora Plains tented Singita Faru Faru’s din- Serengeti Legendary Camp is a mobile camp that camp and Faru Faru Lodge. Also located in the re- ing pavilion overlooks relocates each season. It has the old safari charm serve is Sasakwa Lodge: Together, this trio was voted an active water hole; of bucket showers but the modern convenience of the Best Hotel in Travel + Leisure’s 2011 World’s Best (right) natural rocks frame the pool at Sayari flush toilets. With views toward the valley below, Awards. Singita’s Grumeti Reserves is 350,000 pri- Camp. during the day it’s not unusual to see topi, zebras, vate acres of pure safari nirvana. The three proper- giraffes, buffalo, and other animals from your tent. ties are strikingly different, yet they all rely on that The primary reason for discerning guests to consider exquisite level of detail and service that has helped this camp is that it doesn’t mix clients: You and your build Singita’s stellar reputation. Their focus expands spouse or your family will be the only guests. If you beyond opulence, however, as Singita helps the lo- would like a private adventure, this is it. cal communities earn income by assisting them in growing the produce that lodge chefs use to prepare unforgettable cuisine. Sabora Plains is a nine-tent luxury camp on the plains, which allows for near-limitless sight lines in every direction. While relaxing in camp we saw an army of 17 giraffes make their way to the water hole, along with countless gazelles and other animals. It was quite a display while we were relaxing on our private deck with G&Ts. The tents are decorated with trunks and other campaign furnishings of a bygone era, all brought up to modern-day standards with the addition of air-conditioning, wireless Internet, direct-dial telephones, hair dryers, outdoor showers, and your personal Swarovski spotting scope on the deck. There’s a tennis court and swimming pool near the main dining tent for those who want a bit of exercise, as well as mountain bikes, an archery range, and a stable of 16 horses near Sasakwa Lodge for a rather unique horseback game drive.

66 ker & downey ker & downey 67 Mwiba Wildlife Reserve is home to a secret tented hideaway

Faru Faru is Singita’s contemporary property and ity, I find that private guides generally have a better one of Gana’s favorites. Stone and canvas building understanding of how to set up a viewing so you can materials meld with the two rim-filled pools to cre- capture it effortlessly. Brad’s patience rewarded us ate a tranquil yet inspiring setting just above the wa- with a fairly rare lion sighting – I venture to say that ter hole. Meals can be taken in a variety of locations most guides would have left that particular viewing around the main area, providing for quaint and pri- before the real drama unfolded. vate dining. There are eight suites and one villa, each Are you ready to visit yet? Consider that the long with unobstructed views through their floor-to- rains in Tanzania are historically during April and ceiling, wall-to wall windows. As at Sabora Plains, May and the short rains are in November. I would each suite is fitted with all the modern conveniences advise travelers to broaden their horizons, and not and, yes, even your own personal Swarovski spot- to rely too much on seeing the migration, which can ting scope. limit the opportunities to see other very interesting things. If the migration is non-negotiable, be pre- During our two-night stay at Faru Faru, pared to pack a lunch and drive all day. This annual we saw lions, leopards, cheetahs, buffalo, elephants, spectacle is fluid and wildly unpredictable: It could and many species of plains game. At the nearby rhi- be in one spot one day and 20 miles away the next. no reserve, one can observe the black rhinos that are Regardless of when you choose to travel to Tanzania, being reintroduced to this area through the efforts of there is no shortage of amazing sights and luxurious the Singita Grumeti Fund, Tanzania National Parks, accommodations to keep you thirsting for more of and Frankfurt Zoological Society. The annual migra- this beautiful, untamed region. tion makes its way through Grumeti between June and September, but the resident game in the area is For more information about customizing your own absolutely incredible and makes this an ideal year- journey to Tanzania or any other destination, round destination. contact your travel professional or visit At each of the properties we visited on this trip, we www.kerdowney.com. found the local guides to be knowledgeable and ready to please. That said, I prefer to use a private guide like Brad on my trips into the bush. As someone who likes to get the best out of my limited photographic abil-

The camp commands excellent views of the surrounding savanna, and on rare occasion the migration can be at your doorstep.

68 ker & downey Safari from above at Singita Sabora.

ker & downey 69 No two holes are alike at The Hills Golf Course.

Night falls on Rio de Janeiro.

70 ker & downey Jet to the Links of new zealand The world’s most varied scenery is the backdrop for a wealth of adventure and some of the best golf courses in existence. Jaunt across the country on our incredible journey, packed with golf on premium greens and incredible landscapes seen by private jet.

ker & downey 71 72 ker & downey Even after being quickly catapulted into and rain showers to rejuvenate sore muscles. popularity by The Lord of the Rings, New Zea- The tour of incredible courses and scenery con- land has maintained a unique charm that seems tinues with a northbound flight to the Bay of Is- untouched by the outside world. The pristine lands and two nights at Kauri Cliffs, located on wilderness of Taupo and the Bay of Islands, con- 6,000 acres near Matauri Bay. Tee off here on a trasted with the cosmopolitan cities of Auckland course named the 18th best in the world by Golf and Queenstown, provides a harmonious balance magazine. The 7,120-yard, par-72 course has 15 between adventure and relaxation in luxurious ac- holes with views of the Pacific Ocean, while six are commodations. New Zealand seems to offer some- played along cliffs that plunge into the sea below, thing for everyone, so it’s no wonder the country making for one extraordinary water feature. At the is quickly becoming a golfer’s paradise. Our New lodge the views continue, with a 180-degree pan- Zealand Golf Adventure whisks you by private jet orama of the ocean or golf course from your room. to the most scenic locations, where you’ll play on Tennis courts, a tranquil spa, and three secluded courses with landscapes so gorgeous you’ll strug- beaches will fill the time between hitting the links. gle to keep your eyes on the ball. The distinctive Your private jet then makes its way south to courses are challenging for experienced golfers, Taupo and a unique golf experience at the Kinloch yet accessible and enjoyable for all skill levels. Club. This par-72 course is surrounded by Lake This incredible trip begins in Auckland, the “city Taupo to the south and the Kinloch hills to the of sails” and Polynesian capital of the world. The east, and is currently the only Jack Nicklaus ex- golf starts at the Titirangi Golf Club, set between clusive signature club in New Zealand. You’ll stay the Waitakere Ranges and Manukau Harbor. The at one of the world’s most famous retreats, Huka developers took the original nature of the site into Lodge, located on 17 acres of manicured grounds. consideration during the club’s inception, so the The iconic lodge sits above Huka Falls on a bend of THE KIWI VISTAS bushland par-70 course has elevated tees and roll- the Waikato River and has 25 suites designed to re- (left) Lovely ing fairways. This beautiful landscape is one of the flect the beauty of their surroundings. mountains and Lake Wakatipu surround reasons it is consistently ranked as a top course Then you’ll balance the days of golf with some Matakauri Lodge; in New Zealand. After a full day of golf, includ- downtime at Timara Lodge, a charming five-room (below) natural beauty ing a clinic with the club professional, unwind at property on 600 acres of land. The grounds in- abounds at Titirangi the waterfront Sofitel Auckland, which overlooks clude a 25-acre English garden, five-acre lake, and Golf Club. Waitemata Harbor. Floor-to-ceiling windows and a rose garden with 350 varieties of roses. The well- private balconies provide views of the marina, and appointed rooms have Italian marble bathrooms, the well-appointed rooms have deep soaking tubs Italian linens, and modern amenities.

ker & downey 73 74 ker & downey Watch the City of Sails from the Sofitel Auckland on Watemata Harbor.

ker & downey 75 SO MUCH TO SEE From a chopper landing on the volcanic White Island (left) to the grounds of Millbrook Golf Course, it’s all right to let your eyes wander.

The journey concludes with four nights tribe, provides insight into the tribal heritage and the overlooking Lake Wakatipu at Matakauri Lodge, a sis- legends surrounding the Taupo area. In Wellington, a ter property of Kauri Cliffs just a few minutes from the visit to the Weta Workshop gives you the chance to see heart of Queenstown. All 11 suites and villas have pri- props from The Lord of the Rings, The Hobbit, and Ava- vate terraces with magnificent views, cozy fireplaces, tar while learning about the artists who created them. and generously sized bathrooms. You’ll have the op- Epicureans aren’t forgotten on this journey – they’ll portunity to golf at two clubs in the area. At Millbrook, find steamed mussels and Sauvignon Blanc in Marlbor- try out one of the three courses design by Sir Bob ough Sound and taste Pinot Noir at the Valli Winery Charles. A mix of parkland and links, groomed fairways in the southernmost wine-making region of Central and greens set the scene for the perfect round of golf. Otago. At the Hills Golf Course, your final round commences New Zealand is an adventurer’s playground, and in a 500-acre valley. No two holes are alike, and the el- the outdoor activities go far beyond the links to reveal even more of the islands’ beauty. Take a helicopter ride above Milford Sound for picturesque views of Mitre The 7,120 yard Par 72 course Peak and a landing on a glacier. In Taupo, another helicopter takes you to White Island, an active volcano, to features 15 holes with views walk on the crater floor before landing on the breath- of the Pacific Ocean, while six are taking summit of Mount Tarawera. Private jet transfers throughout the entire 14-day played along cliffs that journey allow you to take in incredible scenery at every turn and from every angle. In a country with distinctive plunge into the sea below, making golf courses and varied, unforgettable landscapes, the for one extraordinary water feature. only thing you’ll need to consider is which to pull out first: your driver or your camera.

For more information about customizing your own evated tees have 360-degree views of the snowcapped journey to New Zealand, contact your travel profes- mountains. Unique sculptures by local artists comple- sional or visit www.kerdowney.com. ment the course’s natural beauty. When you aren’t working on your swing, exclusive tours and excursions round out your time in New Zealand. Near Auckland, you can visit an artist on Waiheke Island and enjoy a private tour of the Con- nell’s Bay Sculpture Park. You’ll interact with the local Maori people in Taupo as your Maori guide, a direct descendant of the high chief of the Ngati Tuwharetoa

76 ker & downey Waikato River is your view from Huka Lodge.

ker & downey 77 Experiential.

Traveling is about more than simply seeing new things; it’s about what happens to your soul in the process. Your journey should deliver moments that inspire you, open your eyes to rare beauties of the world, and overwhelm your senses. We’re private, experiential, luxury travel at its very best, and these little ineffable moments come standard on every Ker & Downey journey.