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AUTUMN27 2019

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NightwatchmanTHE WISDEN CRICKET QUARTERLY ISSUE 27 – AUTUMN 2019

introduces issue 27 of the Nightwatchman Cricket’s past has been enriched by great writing and Wisden is making sure its future Matt Thacker will be too. The Nightwatchman is a quarterly collection of essays and long-form articles and MM Owen unravels his grandfather’s secret life in India is available in print and e-book formats. Peter Mason prefers team shots where there’s a bit going on Co-edited by Anjali Doshi and Tanya Aldred, with Matt Thacker as managing editor, The Nightwatchman features an array of authors from around the world, writing beautifully and Matt Appleby spots KP in a garden centre at length about the game and its myriad offshoots. Contributors are given free rein over subject matter and length, escaping the pressures of next-day deadlines and the despair Michael Simkins thinks he remembers the country’s first floodlit game of cramming heart and soul into a few paragraphs. Telford Vice is neither English nor Australian There are several different ways to get hold of and enjoy The Nightwatchman. You can subscribe to the print version and get a free digital copy for when you’re travelling light. Wisden-MCC Photograph of the Year If you don’t have enough room on your book case, you can always take out a digital-only believes Durham have been hard done by subscription. Or if you’d just like to buy a single issue – in print, digital or both – you can Stuart Rayner do that too. Take a look at the options below and decide which is best for you. Peter Hoare casts his mind back 40 years

Neil Robinson on the ever-evolving tactics of 50-over cricket

AUTUMN27 2019 SPRING5 2014 SPRING5 2014SPRING5 2014 Alex Bowden delves into the mindset of playing for the draw Full subscription Digital subscription NightwatchmanNightwatchmanNightwatchman THE WISDENTHE WISDEN CRICKET CRICKET QUARTERLY QUARTERLY Annual e-book only THE WISDEN CRICKETTHE QUARTERLY WISDEN CRICKET QUARTERLY Annual print Nightwatchman Dave Edmundson insists free-to-air cricket is not the solution subscription (with subscription free e-book versions) £15 Neville Scott traces cricket’s decline through his family £29.95 (+P&P) Click to Buy Click to Buy Richard Hobson on Dick Barlow, stonewaller extraordinaire

Oscar Ratcliffe lauds England’s fragile heroes

The World Cup in pictures – England triumph at Lord’s

Stephen Gregory sees a softer side to Fiery Fred

AUTUMN27 2019 Alastair Glegg tries to practise what he preaches Digital single copy Single copy NightwatchmanTHE WISDEN CRICKET QUARTERLY Stephen Connor on an adult apprenticeship in Edinburgh Single issue Single issue (with (e-book only) free with free Matt Roller wonders how, and why, teams get their nicknames £4 e-book version) £10 (+P&P) Click to Buy Jarrod Kimber loves Kane Williamson Click to Buy

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FLUTESONG OVER THE WATER

MM Owen on how the game sweetened the discovery of his grandfather’s secret life in India

All air, all sky shudders had declared that people should not with that flutesong over the water “countenance such amusements” as cricket “when the whole of the thinking Alas world should be in mourning” over My boat must be sailed now the global slaughter. Presumably the It’s getting too late to wait on the headmaster of Swanage Grammar shore School harboured similar feelings, Alas thought it bad form to indulge in games My boat must be sailed in the wake of such tragic death.

– Rabindranath Tagore, Gitanjali As he trudged back inside, a knackered school bat tucked under his arm, my grandfather – Roy – It was a crisp morning in May of 1941 was 15. His home was a farm named when my grandfather’s cricket match Wilkswood, nestled in a rolling, half- was called off. He was at the crease wild corner of Dorset so placid that to – I picture it as stubbly but neat, the this day you can hear birdsong at any wicket at Swanage Grammar School hour. The family milked cows or made – when the headmaster came striding hay year-round, mumbling hymns on out, waving his arms. Someone must a Sunday. In his boyhood, cricket was have heard it come through on the probably the most exciting thing in radio: the pride of the British navy, my grandfather’s life – the woodslap HMS Hood, had been sunk. 1,415 British echo of a man with a sizeable paunch naval men were drowned. The previous but a good eye middling one into year, in faraway India, Mahatma Gandhi the long grass. By 1940, though,

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the Hardy-esque tranquility had cricket when there were no helmets, newspapers delivered a day late, by the umbrellas as bats in hitting elliptical evaporated. War was here. All three no limited-overs games, no ramp shots; local vicar, on his bicycle. balls stuffed with old rags and sewn of Roy’s older brothers had signed up when the players only ever wore white, by veritably useful cobblers” (in the for the RAF, and nine months before and it was still seen as unsporting to A couple of months later, his commission words of another Indian historian, the HMS Hood went under, the oldest, appeal with too much zeal. came through. The 5th Royal Gurkha Shapoorjee Sorabjee). Within three Dick, was taking to the skies during Rifles. It was real now – a stroll into generations, training dusk till dawn a training exercise at Stradishall in A few months after he turned 18, a Swanage, the toss of a coin, and here it on the Bombay esplanade, these local Norfolk when his bomber lurched to recruitment fair was held in Swanage. was. On the eve of his departure, how boys were reinventing spin bowling and starboard and crashed in flames. Dick Roy and his best friend walked the two did the family say farewell? Had they beating English touring sides at the was 31. Down the years, the family miles. Clustered around tables heavy stockpiled meat and cheese rations game believed, in the motherland, to account was that he had perished in with free tea and cake were teams of ahead of a last feast? Was there booze? be quintessentially Anglo-Saxon; rather the Battle of Britain. Fair enough. rock-jawed men in full uniform, invoking Did anyone say a few words? Whatever beyond the reach, in psychology and a heady mix of adventure and moral the nature of the goodbyes, the waiting sensibility, of brown folk. The teenage Roy, then, was well aware crusade. Decades later, Roy would tell was over. In October of 1944, Roy’s that his country was at war. With some his daughter, my mother, that he and father – himself a veteran of that earlier My grandfather’s boat docked in regularity, on their return from bombing his friend had been tempted by both war, the war that the people in charge Bombay’s Front Bay on 29 November raids of Liverpool and and the Gurkhas and the Royal Marines. had said would end all wars – watched 1944 – the day of his 19th birthday. A elsewhere, yellow-nosed German planes The Marines would mean just across his fourth and final son go off to fight. few miles from the port was that very swooped over the Dorset coastline to the water, the Gurkhas would mean A slow, lonely bus to , and esplanade where, a century earlier, empty their remaining ammunition into the other side of the planet. Eventually, then at 18 years of age, having never Indian cricket had slowly been born. its tranquil fields. At school, Roy carried Roy and his friend tossed a coin. The travelled further afield than Somerset, It was there, in 1926, that CK Nayudu a gas mask in a box around his neck. Gurkhas it was. Roy boarded a ship bound for Bombay. smashed an English attack all over the To the south, the tiny cliffside hamlet In the era of the Raj, it was said that ground, announcing Indian cricket’s of Worth Matravers was acting as the He didn’t wait to be conscripted. Why colonial Brits, oppressed by the heat arrival with a hailstorm of boundaries. nerve centre of British early-warning the haste? Was his patriotism enflamed and the disease, tended to last for two It is doubtful, however, that my radar development; the 360-foot tower by the flood of posters declaring monsoons. My grandfather would stay grandfather had cricket on his mind was visible from the family farm. “Britain Shall Not Burn” and “Your in India for 40 years. when he walked down the gangplank Britain: Fight For It Now”? Did he wish to a swirl of impossible impressions: For the Nazis, sport was about one thing: to avenge Dick’s death? Or was it just • • • women wrapped in whirlwinds of shaping young men into Discobolus- a way to escape sleepy Dorset, get rainbow cloth; cows painted and esque specimens whose athletic the pulse going, witness outlandish According to the historian ribcage-skinny; statues with elephant prowess would translate into victory things? Whatever his reasons, Roy Ramachandra Guha, British sailors were heads; the air thick with the smell of on the battlefield. Hence Hitler hated signed up. By this point, the local mood playing cricket on Indian soil at least as turmeric and rotting bananas. The cricket, believing that with its leisurely was feverish. The Dorset peninsula far back as 1721. For a hundred years, glimmering jewel in the slipping crown pace and only sporadic exertions it offered the shortest sea route to though, India’s colonised indigenous of the empire. India – bigger than fifty was “unmanly and un-German”. Call Normandy, and thousands of Allied people were sceptical. As a forgotten Dorsets, hotter than ten suns. it a quiet sort of up-yours, cricket troops were amassing in and around author named AG Bagot put it in 1897, persisting throughout the villages of Swanage. The American accents were the Indian natives were “apt to look on Roy completed his Gurkha training rural England even as the jackboots an unprecedented exoticism. In April of a cricket match as proof of the lunatic at Abbottabad – famous today pounded. In 1941, through the window 1944, a nearby strip of coastline played propensities of their masters... and to for being where Osama bin Laden of a -bound train, a refugee host to Operation Smash – the largest wonder what possible enjoyment they was gunned down – and joined the from Vichy France observed “all along live-fire exercise of the war, a full-blown could find in running about in the sun 5th Royal Gurkha Rifles, formed the line young men in flannels... playing D-Day dry run attended by King George all day after a leather ball”. Gradually, largely of Nepalese men famous cricket in the sunshine on beautifully VI, Churchill, and Eisenhower. Roy was this changed. In Bombay, in the 1830s, for their ferocious warrior spirit. tended fields shaded by oaks and still waiting on his papers when the Parsi boys began imitating the white While here, according to his military poplar trees”. My grandfather went real D-Day came around. People read man’s strange game, “their chimney- records – stored under lock and key on playing. This was that sepia age of about the slaughter and the victory in pots serving as wickets and their to this day, in the Asian & African

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Studies Reading Room of the British the malaria, even though they’d After the war, my grandfather If you’ve ever heard of Assam, it’s Library – Roy carried out “basic heard the pills made you impotent, volunteered to stay and oversee the probably because you’ve heard it jungle training”: maintenance of a made your hair fall out. Shark liver “internal security” associated with mentioned in the context of tea, Sten gun; how to fashion a bamboo oil for strength. Where there were Partition; it is here, in the confusion of perhaps seen the word emblazoned shelter; how to tell the difference horses, the vets had to sever their relinquishing a colony, that his British across a dark red box of Twinings. The between your phial of water steriliser vocal chords, and so the animals just war records abruptly end. There is last two centuries of Assamese history and your phial of laxative. Lots gazed at you, drenched, moon-eyed. nothing on where he was stationed are defined by the tea trade. Initially, of bayonetting mannequins. With The men lay in an enforced silence during Partition, what he did. But that rapacious pseudo-state, the East impressive swiftness, Roy acquired through the dark hours; even rolling recently, over a lunch in Calcutta, an India Company, ignored the region. “basic Gurkhali” and “basic Urdu”. At over was strictly prohibited. old and dear friend of his told me that Assam was miles from anywhere, and some point, as a Gurkha, he would my grandfather was in Punjab. Roy it was notorious for its dark religious have been equipped with a vicious, In the end, my grandfather was lucky: was a private man but once, after a practices that even now still see the heavy, beautiful kukri knife. Decades he arrived late, and his war lasted Scotch or three, he told my father occasional human sacrifice make the later, stood in his Southsea flat at just seven weeks. Narrowly missing (his son-in-law) that it had been a news. The place was all dense and the age of ten, I would pull the knife some horrific fighting at Kohima and horror: the trains, the massacres with sweltering jungle; it was teeming with from its frayed leather sheath, hold elsewhere, his company spent their time machetes, the vultures and dogs fever and tigers; and it was surrounded it in my soft hand, and think it surely crawling east, sporadically “mopping feeding on the bodies, the not nearly by mountains that various unruly and too heavy for this old man – my grey- up” (as the regimental records put enough men to stop any of it. Even marauding tribes called home. Though haired, stooped-back, trembling-hand it) the retreating, defeated, destitute after this, he stayed. “the Company” was enthusiastically Grandpa – to have ever wielded. “Japs”. According to his commander, plundering nearby Bengal, Assam who wrote a letter to my mother when • • • remained largely undisturbed. In mid-June of 1945, Roy and his Roy died in 2004, his company had a regiment shipped out for Burma. Six mere “three brushes with the enemy – In 2011, my girlfriend and I took a 58- And then, in between bouts of malaria, weeks earlier the cricket-hating Hitler all showing signs of starvation and in hour train from Mumbai to Guwahati, thanks to some local tribes who had had blown his brains out, but on the rags of uniform”. Their main job was the capital of Assam. We dozed been eating it for centuries, a handful other side of the world no one gave to keep a rough count of how many through miles and miles of flat, hot of Brits living in Assam “discovered” a monkey’s about Hitler. There was bloated Japanese bodies floated by on landscape, alighting at tiny, dusty tea growing wild. For a century, still fighting to be done; the Japanese the River Sittang. The count is there, in stations to drink chai and be stared British merchants had been wanting wouldn’t accept that they were pen and ink, in Roy’s war diaries: 100, at. At night, by headtorch, I read a to produce tea in British-owned soil, beaten. In 1917, Siegfried Sassoon had 102, 151, 181, “100++”, 120. copy of William Radice’s translation rather than be forced to buy it from perceived in the ruined landscape of of Tagore’s Gitanjali – pressed into Chinese merchants, at a mark-up, northern France “something in the And then, one sweltering morning, my hands by my mother at Heathrow. using silver they could only acquire by sober twilight which could remind me heart of summer in the jungle of Burma, Assam is way up there in the northeast flooding China with opium. And here it of April evenings in England” and the news of Hiroshima and Nagasaki came of India, tucked behind Bangladesh was, growing wild in a corner of the Raj. “cricket field where a few of us had through on the camp radio, and that and bordering Bhutan. Drive a few been having our first knock at the was that. The war was done. All the hours and you’re in the Himalayas; The “Tea Rush” of the 1830s began nets”. Nothing about Burma would brandy rations went out in a single the next-door Indian state (Arunachal with young men who traipsed up the have reminded my grandfather of evening. Roy’s regiment found its way Pradesh) China partly claims as shifting sandbanks of the Brahmaputra Dorset, or of village cricket. Bamboo to Rangoon, and then on to Bangkok. “South Tibet”. The language here is into deepest Assam to live briefly like hard as bone and tall enough to blot There were victory parades, and clean a long way from Hindi. The people something out of a Conrad story – out the stars; the rain coming down clothes, and fresh mangoes, and the are beautiful, in that way that people enjoy a fragile and lonely life of servants like an upturned ocean; mosquitoes forgotten, luminous sight of women. Roy living near mountains always seem to and easy shooting, eke out a few plump enough to make a stain when was amazed at the American soldiers’ be beautiful. I took this long train to harvests, then succumb to alcoholism squashed. Every night the men sizzled plentiful rations, particularly their Assam in 2011, and returned again this and the mosquitoes while the five the never-ending leeches off their feet copious cigarettes. Bangkok was full of year, because it was in Assam that my months of drowning monsoon trapped with cigarette butts and forced down Australians; some improvised games of grandfather made a new life, and a you indoors. But over the decades, gag-inducing mepacrine tablets for cricket were played in the street. new family. imperial capitalism took over, and tea

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production underwent its industrial called Monabarie, where he oversaw games like kabaddi the national passion. possibly the last British tea-planter in revolution. Assam’s wild forests were more than a thousand hectares of As we all know, these nationalists failed all of north-east India. He was pushing hacked down to make room for vast tea, and where his only daughter – my spectacularly. Indians fell head over 60, and despite a worsening case plantations of lush, regimented tea mother – was born. heels for cricket. In Assam, a cricket of cataracts, continued to umpire, bushes. These plantations, then as now, association was formed in 1947, and squinting and half-guessing at leg- enabled Brits of all classes to drink tea • • • a regional side played their debut before appeals. all day long for a pittance. The self- first-class game the following year, in sufficient Assamese refused to do the The first cricket club outside Britain beautiful Shillong. A full roster of league Among all this, there is a knot of monotonous labour of tea-picking was founded in 1792 in Calcutta sides quickly emerged. In the beginning, contradictions to my grandfather’s for a few rupees a day, so thousands – like Bombay a port and hub of the teams carried the echo of Assam’s story. Despite his rather Raj-esque of labourers were imported from administration which had a heavy recent history: eight or nine Assamese setup, he wasn’t posh. He lived posh: hunger-stricken regions like Bengal, British presence, and thus bats and guys, captained by a British planter with bungalow full of wicker chairs, bearers Bihar and Orissa. For a century, the balls. The game was popular in the expensive pads and spotless whites. bringing tea to his bedside, evenings working conditions were horrendous, city, especially with gentrified Bengalis. Over time, the planters would vanish. As spent drinking gin at the club. The first an indentured servitude blighted by (Cricket was “one of the languages in Bengal, Assam’s cricket season was woman he married, my grandmother, squalor and disease. The crop yields of the Raj,” writes historian Richard short, owing to the heavy rains, and the was very posh indeed – prone to were huge, and so were the profits. Cashman; in the cynical view, upper- wickets were spongy and slow. condemning the macaque monkeys Within a few decades, following one class Indians only started playing the that crawl all over the tea estates as of its more forgotten colonial cruelties, game to get in their masters’ good In his early years in Assam, my beastly or frightful. But my grandfather Britain ruled the tea trade. books.) Assam was and is a long way grandfather dedicated huge amounts grew up squeezing udders, like his from Calcutta, or indeed any of India’s of energy to maintaining the best father, and his father’s father. He was In the ’40s, even as the sun began to cricketing heartlands. At the time of possible reception on the BBC World a million miles from those Victorian set on the empire in a multitude of writing, the state has never produced Service. This involved complex Raj governors who would be royally places, companies largely indifferent to an Indian international (though this networks of homemade aerials that miffed when a famine in the province who held the reins in Delhi continued to could be about to change, with the were rainproofed using banana leaves. they were meant to be overseeing print rupees, and the old-boy networks emergence of the promising teenager, Roy followed the Test series, and forced them to cancel a cricket match. that passed for HR departments Riyan Parag). But still, cricket found always kept an ear out for Somerset Roy wasn’t even like many other post- continued to operate as they always its way to Assam, the same way it (he was born in Frome, and Dorset Raj planters, who often came from the had. In the months following Partition, found its way across all of India: at have never achieved first-class county oldest of old money. probably sat under a bar-room the liver-spotted hands of homesick status). Through the ’50s and ’60s, in ceiling-fan, probably in Calcutta, my Brits desperate to play their boyhood a punishing, most un-English humidity, Indeed, in my haphazard oral research, grandfather bumped into someone game. In Assam, it was dragged from he played in the planter’s teams. He I have discovered that many of the who worked “in tea”. (At this time, the Guwahati out into the countryside opened the batting, and also (I am told) other Brits saw him as something industry conducted something of a by those dislocated Brits pacing up tended to be first through the doors of of an oddball. He spoke all the local recruitment drive, aimed at the recently and down the tea gardens in floppy the club bar at stumps. His first wife – languages, even those of the hill tribes; demobbed.) By July of 1948, Roy was sunhats. Lawnmowers shipped upriver today lost to Alzheimer’s in a nursing he adored Assam’s traditional music on the books at McLeod Russel, the to mow the grass; all Kashmiri willow; home, her memories of all of this and poetry; he would walk down to the biggest tea-growing company in the local teak for stumps; balls stitched melted away – was a punctilious scorer. village for every big puja; and he would world. Picture him: sweltering, two from the leather of a water buffalo. The 1962 season was rudely interrupted vanish upriver for days on fishing trips suitcases, boarding a propeller plane by the month-long Sino-Indian War, with local friends. Though he had a for Assam, not far from that stretch of As Guha reminds us, when India achieved when Chinese troops marched into cook and a driver who called him sahib, wartime jungle he was probably still independence, many nationalists Assam. Roy was tasked by the military he was also godfather to their children, trying to forget. Perhaps he thought “called for the game to disappear with evacuating the whole tea-planting he regularly bunged them sizeable it would be a brief sojourn. But Assam along with its promoters, the British”. community – that is, the white-skinned cash bonuses, and they were distraught would be his home for most of his life. These nationalists viewed India’s love of slice of the tea-planting community – when he left. At Monabarie, his main tea He managed a variety of tea gardens, cricket as a sort of sublimated servitude, down to Calcutta. Roy retired in 1986, garden, he diverted so many company but closest to his heart was an estate and aspired to make traditional Indian the year I was born, making him quite funds toward building a school for local

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children that it almost got him fired. in saris, with enormous baskets strung amount of money, enough to make every meal, even breakfast. Beyond this, During rows, my grandmother would on their backs, working their sinewed them all comfortable for many years. I barely paid attention. My disinterest accuse him of having “gone native”. hands: top bud and two young leaves, But he walked out. has matured into regret, partly as a top bud and two young leaves. I watch grandson, partly as a writer. And though her accusation has them and I am guilty, even though my My grandfather never expected me a colonialist ring, in a sense my guilt won’t help them, even though all to meet the family he left behind in I do remember that he was around the grandmother was proved right. Roy’s birth is a fluke. Assam. He kept them secret, and was house a lot during a couple of summers, second wife, Bina, was Assamese. He apparently ready to take the fact of their usually in our lounge, long-limbed in an first encountered her at the festival of Bina’s house is lovely and spacious, existence to the grave. It wasn’t until the armchair, dozing through a Test match in Bihu, where she was dressed as the cool stone floor and fabrics hung in the final decade of his life – through a quite which Nasser’s England were invariably Hindu goddess Radha. Her father was doorways. It is the very same house astonishing confluence of a found letter, being trounced. And this is the heart of from Orissa; his parents had arrived as where she and my grandfather lived and my mother’s determined curiosity; it: all of my memories of him are filtered imported tea labour. He was a senior together, 30-odd years earlier, after another story to be told elsewhere – that through the lens of cricket. All of them. clerk at Monabarie. Bina was a tea- he retired from tea. On my first visit, his secret legacy was revealed. When Up until around the age at which one picker. Her relationship with Roy began Bina had Roy’s military photo on a he passed away, my mother journeyed discovers girls and intoxicants, I was during his final decade in Assam, and it little shrine of sorts, with white petals back to meet Robin and Sanju, her half- an okay cricketer. I captained my is the reason I have ever set foot in this garlanding the corners of the frame, brothers, for the first time. Together, town, and had an unsuccessful trial for faraway corner of India. and incense sending up coils of spicy they scattered half of Roy’s ashes in the Sussex. I remember my grandfather at smoke. Bina held my face, which I am Brahmaputra, that great and vast river my games: a gently prowling presence, • • • told resembles Roy’s, and said his name in which he had loved to fish. (The other slouched for spells in a camping chair, like a mantra while tears ran in wrinkles half went into the soil of Dorset.) usually alone, an outstretched leg away When I first met Bina, my grandfather down to the corners of her smile. She from the boundary. Enormous floppy had been gone from Assam for 23 embraced my girlfriend, overflowing I received the part of his life he denied hat covering his bald head, family years, and resident of the great pavilion with love for her too, because family them. Roy returned to England when I golden retriever spread at his feet. In in the sky for seven. Bina’s house is a is family. Also present were her and was a baby, and I was 18 when he passed the heat he’d undo his shirt and his long drive from Assam’s main airport in Roy’s two sons, Robin and Sanju. away. I was a self-centred adolescent, chest hair was a dazzling white against Guwahati, up through flat miles of rice Bina speaks little English, but theirs is incapable of thinking that old people the deep brown of his skin, leathered paddies, along long stretches where impeccable. They translate, constantly. were of any interest whatsoever, so I from decades of Assamese sun. He arrow-straight teak trees on the edge They are good men: honest, shockingly never asked him a single real question. helped me with my chin strap once. I of bloom throw the car into shade. To generous toward me, fiercely loyal to From a few strange ornaments in his flat remember an umpire asking him to the north, vague in the mist, are the their mother. Both of them are good – including a leopard skin complete with move because he was sat in front of hazy shoulders of the first Himalayas. cricketers. Sanju works in tea. bullet hole, and the kukri knife, its blade the sightscreen. Another time, I recall The swastika – a pure-hearted symbol mottled with age – I had some vague him collecting a ball that had gone for of Hindu divinity for centuries, before He left them. When the boys were idea that he had once lived somewhere four, and not having the shoulder to Hitler sullied it forevermore – is dotted eight and six, my grandfather left them. exotic. But that was the extent of it. throw it back anymore, instead rolling everywhere. Out here, you are a great Departed the house at sunrise, boarded According to the obituary written by it toward the nearest fielder (me, in distance from cricket’s evolutionary a plane in Calcutta, and never set food my step-grandfather, Roy was “a quiet, the invincibility of the teenage body, roots (the ground close to my home in in India again. There are conflicting organised, very private person – except thinking it incomprehensible that a Bristol, for example, where WG Grace accounts of his departure, all of them perhaps when he had had a jar or two shoulder could not be capable of scored 13 first-class centuries). Nearby is coloured by the mists of memory and – who never boasted but was honest throwing). Slim fragments of memory, Kaziranga National Park where, through time and personal loyalty. This wouldn’t and very loyal”. I wouldn’t know; I had no wise cricketing aphorisms dispensed ancient binoculars, my girlfriend and be the place to parse or debate them. no real human impression of him at as I stepped over the rope – but he was I watched a family of golden langurs But even the kinder accounts, the all. If anything, I thought he was a little often there, watching. feast on jackfruit. Driving into central accounts that make the abandonment uncool, because he once asked me Assam you go through miles of less cruel, don’t easily exonerate him. turn down Jimi Hendrix; and I found it My uncles have told me that one of plantations, and the tea-pickers are Whatever the truth, Roy walked out on bizarre and a little disconcerting that their few lasting memories of Roy is still there now: all women, swaddled a family. Yes, he left behind a sizeable he ate raw chilis and mango pickle with him teaching them the basics of cricket

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in a field behind the house in Assam. It’s ones. My uncle Sanju slapped them word, that was him; but something of their desires or their fears took or take about the last thing the oldest of the into the lemon trees at the edge of the him surely shrivelled on that last flight similar shape. But in each of these brothers, Robin, recalls. Big hands over tea plantation. This the same patch of out of Calcutta. The boys had his eyes. private worlds hummed and hums that smaller hands around the handle. The earth where, 40 years ago, he taught Have his eyes. gentle obsession with the shape and wicket-keeper stands here; next to him them cricket’s basics; basics which the grace of a half-English, half-Indian are what we call the slips. You’re also will never change. In the evenings we Though he departed Dorset on a coin game – the only game on earth where out if you hit the stumps with your own watched the IPL, a format that would toss, at 18 years of age, with no special you pause to drink tea, that bewitched bat. Your foot can’t cross this line when have baffled my grandfather, with Bina fondness for what back then they still green leaf without which Roy never it’s your turn to bowl. The first time I dashing out during ad breaks to fetch called the Orient, Roy fell for India. And visits Assam, without which I am not visited, in 2011, I took the boys a brand- us plates of grilled paneer dripping as he fell for India, India absorbed and telling this story. new ball, a proper Dukes, as shiny and in awesome amounts of ghee, all of remade his boyhood sport around him. as red as a beating heart. From the it a product of the household cows. Cricket was his constant, and by the time • • • back seat of the car I watched Robin Another morning we left the shade of a he left, he was failing a sort of inverse turning it over, lazy snap of his hand, vast Banyan tree on a small boat to idle “Tebbit test”. He wanted to watch Most summers, I’ll spend some time an off-breaker waiting idly for his next the day away on a small island; while Tendulkar bat for as long as possible, in my grandfather’s corner of Dorset; delivery, the seam a quivering white line we were there, we mulled on the Indian even if it was an English attack trying to I am here now, tweaking these last in the air. I thought that my grandfather middle order ahead of the World Cup. I nick him off. It was India where he most paragraphs with the same fussiness would never have seen this, seen how chewed betel nut; I spat it into the river; often heard leather meet willow. It was that in my teens, while he watched, I well his grown son could turn his they laughed. Our lives are passing too, in Assam, not Dorset, that he taught his used to move third man a touch finer. wrist over. That was his choice. But and though our encounter has exotic flesh and blood the basics. Roy’s two Dorset is always placid, stupefyingly he would’ve liked it. A few days later, beginnings, now it is just like any other worlds and two families – England and placid. In the shadow of gnarled cliffs in a crammed hall up at Monabarie, human bond; that creeping, hungry Assam – met in the flesh. Might his initial my now-wife and I swim in the breath- myself and the sons he never expected fondness for both the obvious and the surprise not dissolve into something like taking water, dry on the rocks like me to meet watched Dhoni’s World- obscured things of a person. familiarity, an impression of essential seals shocked by the sunshine. Hard to Cup-winning six arc toward the smog- coherence? Perhaps he doesn’t deserve believe there were ever Nazi bombers smeared Mumbai moon. Delirium in It wouldn’t be right to thank my this happy coda; perhaps it is right overhead. In the morning, we watch all the local languages. For a moment grandfather for all this; it wasn’t his that he is deprived of it, having nearly seabirds slow-wheel over the blinding I loved India as purely as I have ever design. It happened in spite of his deprived others of it. But what use blue of the Channel, and as we watch loved England. Afterwards, up at Roy’s secrecy. And yet might the confluence anger against the mute echo of those them we drink tea – the real stuff, the old bungalow – where his name is still not cheer him, beyond the grave? who have passed on? earthy malty Assam stuff, brought up on the wall, commemorating an Mustn’t it have broken the heart even home by the kilogram in brown paper enormous mahseer he pulled out of of this private and unflinching man, to The consciousnesses of Roy, his bricks from my uncle Sanju’s garden. the Brahmaputra – we drank enormous leave this corner of India, after 40 years? Assamese family, and his English amounts of gin, and we didn’t discuss Morning after morning he woke to the grandson never shared a space. Time Roy’s old family farm, Wilkswood, is still the dead. building heat and the eager sounds of and geography and the grave did for there today. We swing by; it’s posher life in the seething trees, accumulated that. I know this, though: all of them than I expected; in the farm shop there My grandfather is a ghost, but they’re those repeated, simple moments that loved and love the sight of one ripped are jars of curry sauce and mango my family now. I travel across half put a place into our blood. The mountain through the covers off the fist of the chutney. How a world can shrink, in a the earth to see my uncles, to split alphabets lived under his tongue; can bat. All of them loved and love the century. I’d like to bring my uncles to pomegranates with their children, to he ever have stopped being stunned by death rattle of clean-bowled stumps, England one day. I’d like to bring them meet their brilliant wives, to fall asleep the majesty of the June rains, so loud the thudding weight of a catch sticking here, to Dorset, this mild and miniature to the symphony of dogs quarrelling that you can’t hear yourself sing? Or in the palms, the tall shadows of a last piece of earth that is another planet and geckos calling that must have been by the sight of elephants, old gods of hour’s play. These were things of beauty from India. Maybe the brothers would strange to Roy too, in the beginning. On Assam, casting their happy-sad gaze in Dorset in the ’30s, and they’re still want to see their father’s grave – a my most recent visit, after the morning down the riverbank? And after decades things of beauty in a corner of Assam a small lichened square of stone sat in the rain had lifted and the surly cockerels of the land, a family. He loved them, of century on. It is a mystery, really, what soil of Langton Matravers. Maybe they had ceased, I bowled a few loopy course he loved them. He never said a these disparate minds shared, where wouldn’t. That would be up to them.

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Riding the trains in India, I have been hapless bowlers. Here is our easiest informed by more than one person language. When he was very near the that, along with Hindu deities and end, lying skinny and morphined in a blood relatives, there is but one hospital bed, my grandfather asked acceptable centrepiece for a shrine: my mother to read him something. By Sachin. On the bookshelf in the family chance, the newspaper she’d bought home in Assam are two dog-eared that morning included a profile of copies of his autobiography. Sat round Tendulkar. She read it to him. When the kitchen table, full of lentils and beer, she finished, moments before he we watch some YouTube compilations relaxed out of this life, he said: “Read of the old master carving up various it again.”

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Nothing is as full as a freshly empty cricket ground. Here the game lived and breathed not long ago, sweaty and sweary, visceral and violent. Now the space is gently haunted by facts and fictions hovering in the half and imperfect light of memory.

In this charmed spot, where the crackle-pop of spikes has followed paved paths into the quickening quiet of evening, be truth. Cricket is a game of place captured by context beholden to culture. To be at an empty ground is to be in a trove rich in all three. EXTRACTS TELFORD VICE • • • Next time you venture into an old cricket pavilion, have a look at the team photographs on the wall and consider their evolution, from the early days to the present. In 2016, two years after parading their fifth major trophy in eight seasons around If the pictures go far enough back, then the chances are that the older ones will be Lord’s, Durham County Cricket Club stared administration in the face. Tales of much more interesting, with players arranged in imaginative formations, facing in reaching for the stars only to fall flat on your face are familiar in professional sport, different directions, sitting on chairs backwards, lying on the ground, wielding bats but Durham’s ambition had been encouraged by authorities who still have questions and sporting all kinds of non-conformist clothing, often in a rather rakish manner. to answer about how they handled the fallout, and particularly the way the public purse was raided to settle county-cricket debts. PETER MASON STUART RAYNER • • • • • • Pietersen looks slightly bemused by the lengthy fireproof-cushion lecture, which is delivered by a health-and- safety officer and extinguishes the interest of most of the New it may have been, but this was not a step into the unknown. The 40-over format guests – Britain’s leading garden-centre bosses. was tried and tested and had been popular on BBC2 on Sunday afternoons since 1965, with the International Cavaliers – a team made up of overseas stars, recently MATT APPLEBY retired players and a few current cricketers – travelling up and down the country taking on county XIs and others. The Cavaliers have been neglected by historians, • • • but they were cricket’s Neanderthal Man, the common ancestor of the World Cup, World Series Cricket, T20 and The Hundred. They attracted large numbers of So this is how I remember it. Early September, and with the nights drawing in and spectators and, more significantly, TV viewers. Horlicks replacing Pimm’s as the bevvy of choice, word went round that there was to be a one-off, floodlit, 30-over-a-side, professional cricket match between PETER HOARE Scarborough Cricket Club and the imperiously titled DB Close’s Yorkshire XI. Remember, this was 1981, a time when such terms as “evening”, “floodlit” and “30 • • • overs a side” were unheard of, at least over here. And as if that wasn’t sufficient to whet one’s appetite, the posters and local newspaper ads claimed that the great Dennis Lillee himself would be making an appearance.

MICHAEL SIMKINS

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Since the emergence of in the early years of this century, the future of Even by the late 1950s, cricket remained part of the culture across all communities. 50-over cricket has seemed in peril. Squeezed between the subtleties and delayed There is a fascinating section in that ground-breaking Karol Reisz documentary gratification of the traditional game and the brash, instant entertainment of its newest of 1958, We are the Lambeth Boys, well worth tracking down on the internet. The incarnation, it has sometimes been hard to see what purpose the original form of film has scenes in which rough teenage Londoners – yobs, we’d say – batted and limited-overs cricket still serves. Matthew Engel pulled no punches in his Notes for bowled on hard-surface playgrounds with stumps chalked on a wall. The image is the 2006 Wisden when he described 50-over cricket as “a dreary formula, which has not sentimental: these kids had no particular love of the game, it is simply that they grown worse with repetition”. Engel’s disdain was reserved purely for the 50-over played it, naturally, just as they would kick a ball in the street. In my world, around format, however, his affections still held by memories of 60- and 65- over contests in this time, we had a tattered net to play in if we walked to the camp sports field, albeit the Gillette Cup and the first World Cups. using battered equipment “scrounged” from PT Sergeants invariably styled “Biff” or “Muscles.” This was after my father had re-enlisted. NEIL ROBINSON NEVILLE SCOTT • • • • • • “The natural way for me has always been to be positive and to find strokes to get my way out of pressure situations, but a career of 14 or 15 years of international cricket The basics of Barlow: born in Bolton, 1851, pre-Wisden, pre-overarm bowling. Think forces you to explore new areas of your game,” de Villiers tells the Nightwatchman. growing empire and the Great Exhibition. Right-hand bat, left- arm medium bowler. “There are a couple of innings of my career that forced me to go into a discomfort Seventeen Tests. “Dour and resolute,” says Cricinfo, a description brooking little zone, if I can call it that.” dissent. Photographs show a trim, proud, neatly-groomed figure, fastidious, medium- height, alert and bearded. Although film does not survive it is easy to imagine a left Nevertheless, de Villiers sees those two rearguard innings as “an extreme version of leg thrust forward with a straight, dead bat alongside. my basics” rather than something fundamentally different. He is best known today through the poem “At Lord’s” by Francis Thompson. ALEX BOWDEN Published in 1924, some five years after Barlow’s death, the verse is written from the perspective of an old man reflecting nostalgically on his youth. • • • RICHARD HOBSON But it’s not a paywall. It is the paymaster. Sky’s cash has literally kept the game sustainable. Let’s strip away the veneer of received wisdom that cricket on terrestrial • • • television is the panacea for declining interest, participation and financial woes. Without the commitment of BSkyB and the considerable increase in TV revenue that And yet, in this moment of heightened drama, with the battle raging at its hottest, the ECB could negotiate, at least half of our county clubs would have gone to the wall. Stokes’ advice revealed something. Something which quietly defines this England The recreational game has benefited significantly too. team: embracing fallibility.

DAVE EDMUNDSON Stokes had reminded Archer that failure was a possibility and, you know what, that was ok. Don’t fear it. • • • Not quite the narrative we have come to expect from elite sportsmen, those macho beings who make their own luck and laugh in the face of vulnerability.

OSCAR RATCLIFFE

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I was a skinny teenager at a boys’ boarding school in North Wales... a mediocre, “I think it’s ridiculous,” said a bullish Fred Trueman, when he heard that Yorkshire second-XI cricketer, a bit of a googly bowler and usually batting around No.7. But had become the Phoenix and would be wearing all-orange. “As far as I’m concerned for some reason I’d been picked for the team to represent the school when Freddie it’s Yorkshire, the greatest county cricket club in the world. We’ve done everything, Trueman came to Colwyn Bay. we’ve won everything and this is bringing us down as a music-hall joke. I’m an old traditionalist and to me this is just Americanising it all. Absolutely stupid.” Yes, the great and legendary Freddie Trueman... and on that long-ago summer’s afternoon, I saw another side of the cricketer I had idolised since I was a little boy. The names chosen fell largely into three categories. Some chose names that had traditionally been associated with the county, or that made geographical sense: STEPHEN GREGORY Glamorgan Dragons, Nottinghamshire Outlaws, Warwickshire Bears; others went down the alliterative route: Hampshire Hawks, Durham Dynamos, • • • Sussex Sharks; while a third went with whatever their marketing and commercial It has not, however, been generally recognised that regular church attendance over departments came up with. That meant that Derbyshire, for example, were the the winter can help conscientious umpires and scorers hone their skills and get in Scorpions, in keeping with a beer that their sponsors brewed – a decision that club some invaluable practice during the off-season. The premise is quite straightforward historian David Griffin considered “risible”. but does require strict attention to the sermon, or rather to the parson delivering it. He is to be regarded as the bowler’s-end umpire, and his gestures as signals to the MATT ROLLER scorers. Runs, extras and wickets can be recorded on the helpfully provided bits of paper headed “Request for Visit from Clergy” or “Donations to the Flower Fund” • • • found in most pews. Bring your own pencil. Alastair Glegg There is only one person who understands he is not cool. Not only understands it, I was ready to bowl my first ball in six weeks. It was wayward. A wide. My second but accepts it. attempt stayed on the pitch but was walloped for four. The batsman had plenty of time to amble across his crease and yank the ball square through the leg side. The Kane Williamson is standing to one side, wedged up against Kohli’s throne, in what next delivery also went for four and was followed by another wide. My hands started looks like ill-fitting kit and sneakers you can buy at a supermarket. Everyone is to feel clammy – this was becoming a waking nightmare. I shortened my run-up severe or awkward, but Williamson is smiling as he stands in front of the shabby- dramatically – just to get through to the end of the over as quickly as possible. The chic wallpaper. His beard is borrowed from a primary- school librarian. Kane is the agony was prolonged by my inability to keep it on the pitch, each wide keeping me friendly teetotal uncle who’s posing with his niece and her friends at her 21st. further from completing the over. That, and the time taken to keep fetching the ball from the edges of the ground. Williamson isn’t some alpha leader, he’s not physically dominating or emotionally demonstrative, not a part of him looks calculating, or fiercely intellectual. He’s not STEPHEN CONNOR cool, nor really uncool, he’s just Kane Williamson.

• • • JARROD KIMBER

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NightwatchmanTHE WISDEN CRICKET QUARTERLY

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