ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams

From towering dunes to crashing surf, ’s provides RVers a scenic seaside experience Of Wind and Water

utting high against the mass, this place boasts an abun- RVers will find different fla- Ah, but head south and it’s a wide sky, the big dune dance of attractions, from his- vors of attractions in all areas, different story. at Jockey’s Ridge State torical sites and national monu- and decent camping in most. But State Route 12 runs the length Park is a work in prog- ments to famous lighthouses and access to northernmost beach of the barrier islands, paralleling Jress — the tallest natural sand a sprawling national seashore. towns, with their narrow, two-lane ocean beaches and forming an dune on the East Coast, con- Today, the Outer Banks is a pleas- roads, can become a problem, par- escape route from the commercial stantly shifting and sculpted by ant collision of the natural world ticularly during summer months noise and congestion commonly strong, battering winds. — wildlife refuges and a wind- and busy weekends, when traffic found to the north. But from its highest ridge swept coastline — and the com- jams are the norm. By the time you leave Nags — about 100 feet in the air — it mercial scene, with restaurants, “Oh don’t even bother going Head, housing thins out, the is a marvel, a towering natural shopping and lively recreational north,” laughed Susan Wiggett, landscape opens and a national overlook that lends a panoramic opportunities. of Brattleboro, Vermont, who seashore beckons. Little wonder view of the to the The Outer Banks chain actu- was visiting the Outer Banks this RVers like the Wiggetts find more east, Roanoke to the west. ally encompasses five distinc- spring with her husband, Bruce, contentment — and camping It’s an important perspective in tive areas: northern beach towns, in their Roadtrek 210 Class C options — on the southern two- understanding the North Carolina including Corolla and Duck; cen- motorhome. thirds of the barrier chain. Outer Banks — a delicate thread tral beach towns, such as Kitty “It feels like every square inch “We’ve never been here before, of land, only a few miles wide at Hawk, Kill Devil Hills and Nags of land has been developed and but wound up staying oceans- some points, with a big appeal. Head; , Roanoke it’s very congested — you can’t ide in the KOA For such a long, lean land Island and Ocracoke Island. even see the ocean,” she advised. in Rodanthe, and have no com- plaints,” Bruce Wiggett said. “The scenery has been great.” “Basically, we really love RVing. It’s just a great way to get out there and see the country,” he added.

Getting there is half the fun No matter where you’re coming from, you’ll likely take one of three approaches to the (left to right) It’s easy to hop the free ferry that will take you from Hatteras Island to Ocracoke Island — even for trailers, Outer Banks. fifth-wheels and motorhomes up to 65 feet long. About 100 miles of public beaches that rim the islands are an invitation From the North, follow U.S. for long seaside strolls.

 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 3 ROUTE 66 Road Trip The Outer Banks islands lie just beyond North Carolina’s east- ern shore, sheltering the mainland like a fragile, broken finger. An ever-changing land- scape carved by water and wind, this chain of small barrier islands has stood the test of Of Wind time. Today it remains an enormously popu- lar destination that and Water seduces visitors with the lure of sand, surf and staggering natural beauty.

The Lighthouse is among five distinctive lighthouses  stationed along the Outer Banks; many are still open to visitors. Scenic Route soul-stirringVol. 3 / No. 3 (clockwise, left to right) Fishing piers, scattered along the shore between Kitty Hawk and South Nags Head, provide an excellent spot to wet your line. Colorful beachfront homes are plentiful along northern beach towns. Hungry gulls steal a snack from a passenger on the free ferry that runs to Ocracoke Island. Surf fishing remains a popular sport throughout the Outer Banks.

on’t forget 158 East, which merges into long, and we noted several larger D colony, and its mysterious demise, • Sun and wind protection, State Route 12 just north of Kitty motorhomes navigating the ferry including hats, sunscreen by attending “The Lost Colony,” a Hawk, a busy point during sum- with ease. One-way fares for rigs • Binoculars to observe the symphonic outdoor drama, which rich bird life, agile surfers mer months. From the west, take from 20 to 40 feet runs about $30; and big ships passing on runs June 2 through August 18. U.S. 64 east to and motorhomes or trailers 40 to 65 the horizon Roanoke Island is also home to continue to the outermost islands, fee long run about $45. • Picnic gear for impromptu the popular Elizabethan Gardens, beach gatherings; leashes landing just south of Nags Head. Once you reach the Outer for pets the North Carolina Aquarium and For a more scenic, unhurried Banks, State Route 12 is your • Canoe or kayak for exploring Roanoke Festival Park, where daily trip, try a trip across the water. lifeline — a well-maintained quieter inland waters airs programs are offered aboard a 16th Two toll ferries usher you from stretch of highway that rambles • Surf fishing gear, beach ch century-style sailing ship and his- the mainland to Ocracoke Island. the entire length of the barrier tory becomes fun in the interactive One departs Swan Quarter and can islands, including a heart-swelling ing waters of Pamlico and Roanoke Adventure Museum. be reached via U.S. 264; the other section at the Herbert C. Bonner Roanoke sounds. Make note of the Roanoke leaves Cedar Island and is reached bridge with some of the finest Arriving on U.S. 64, you’ll Island attractions and make the by following U.S. 70. Both trips views you’ll see among any of the cross Roanoke Island — a desti- time to double back to sample take a little over two hours. From islands. Experienced visitors know nation in itself, and considered the a few; many make terrific stops Ocracoke Island, catch the free to watch your speed limit, as the daytrip capital of the Outer Banks, for a rainy day or just a dramatic ferry over to Hatteras Island, a highway is regularly patrolled. since it hosts four of the region’s change of pace. relaxing ride. Bring some bread Take time to enjoy your trip most popular attractions. Here, Once you reach Route 12, it’s crumbs to feed the gulls off the over to the barrier islands, a land- the past feels tangible at the Fort time to make a choice. Need gro- back of the boat. scape that gently morphs from Raleigh National Historic Site, ceries, provisions, souvenirs or a The North Carolina Ferry sys- serene farmland and small-town once home to Sir ’s decent coffeehouse? Head north. tem can handle vehicles or com- produce stands to salt marshes, pioneering colonists. Today, visi- Anxious to find a campsite, stick binations of vehicles up to 65 feet wetlands and, finally, the sprawl- tors can learn more about the your toes in the sand and settle

10 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 3

(above) From a towering monument to a life-sized replica of the Wright Brother’s famed airplane — which doubles as a climbing structure to young visitors — the Wright Brothers National Memorial is a stopover worth your time. (below) A 60-foot monument memorializes the birthplace of America’s first powered flight.

back to enjoy some seaside scen- way to the beach, but it will likely through the Cape Hatteras National stopped by a gate marking the ery? Head south. The northern end be lined with towering beach hous- Seashore, a pristine merger of Virginia line. of the Outer Banks is the most es and packed with people — espe- beach, sand dunes, marshes and Frankly, we found the drive to populated and, frankly, the most cially on a warm day. woodland that continues 70 miles be over-rated. There’s one way commercial. Through public access Turn right at South Nags Head, south toward . in and one way out, and trust us points (look for blue and white and it’s a different world. You’ll Be sure to stop at the — big rigs do not want to tackle signs), you can always make your quickly find yourself passing Whalebone Junction Information the tight turnaround in Corolla Center to pick up excellent maps at road’s end. And be aware that and detailed information on the weekend traffic is extreme during national seashore. summer months. Far more fun was a stop at From north to south Currituck Beach Lighthouse, Corolla is the northernmost located in the Currituck Heritage town on the Outer Banks — the Park. You can climb to the top most upscale, touristy spot on the of the 158-foot-tall lighthouse for islands. The paved road literally stunning panoramic views of both ends here, unless you own (or sound and sea. Or stroll the nearby rent) a four-wheel-drive vehicle, boardwalk and check out the his- in which case you can drive even toric Whalehead Club. It’s a park- further north right onto the beach. like setting rich in charm, history To those unaccustomed to and natural splendor. beach driving, it’s a peculiar sight. Campgrounds this far north Hundreds of tire tracks make the are few and far between, often shoreline look like a deep, rutted unglamorously wedged amid high- highway. But for surf anglers, it’s a end property developments, as if chance to drive right to your sport. an afterthought. Our advice? Keep And if you get lucky, you might heading south. see the remnants of wild horse Do make time to stop at herds that once thrived here — the Wright Brothers National though today’s wandering ponies Memorial atop Big Kill Devil Hill. are said to be elusive. You can stretch your legs with an The beach drive ambles on uphill hike to the 60-foot monu- for about 13 miles, until you’re ment that honors the pioneering

12 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 3

Wright Brothers — a windy spot, a park ranger. “This is a desert envi- Currituck Beach Lighthouse, this home to the first powered ronment. Sand temperatures can be located in Corolla, is the flight in history. warmer than the air temperature, only lighthouse in North Carolina still operating in You can also study replicas of and you can count on encountering its original structure — and the Wright’s famed plane, or learn sand spurs out here.” it’s open to visitors who much more about their story at want to climb to the top. a centrally located visitor center. Meeting of Admission is $3; youth under 16 land and sea are free. And there’s ample parking Barrier islands have a rough for the largest diesel pusher. job, absorbing the force of pound- For even more impressive sand ing surf, surging winds and even formations, continue the push the occasional hurricane. And few south to Jockey’s Ridge State Park, places illustrate their resiliency a true treasure and an excellent better than the unspoiled beauty of destination for day hikes, picnics Cape Hatteras National Seashore. and hang-gliding. The park can be Here, land and sea have struck Windsurfers and kite-boarders flock toCanadian Hole, on the sound-side found just off State Route 12 in an uneasy truce, each impacted by just north of Buxton, for wind-born the heart of Nags Head — look up, the other. It is a lovely, sometimes water recreation. you can’t miss it. lonely setting, with pristine, wind- The park’s crown jewel is a swept beaches, gnarled trees shaped Cross the impressive arching 100-foot-high sand dune, a great by sharp, salty breezes, ever-shifting span of the Herbert C. Bonner place to hike, fly a kite, drink sand dunes, quiet salt marshes and Bridge and you’ll reach the Pea in spectacular views of sea and coastal woodlands. Island National Wildlife Refuge. sound, or just enjoy a moment of Heading south, take a quick Birders will want to check out the quiet solitude. (Visitors with dis- detour to visit the Bodie Island observation platforms, which per- abilities can even get a ride to the Lighthouse. With fat horizontal mit you to spy on egrets, herons, top of the dune from park staff.) stripes, it is a distinctive sentinel. glossy ibis and snow geese, among Jockey’s Ridge is a great place Pronounced “bawdie,” the light- an explosion of other bird life. to try your hand at hang gliding house creates a great photo oppor- The 6,000-acre refuge is an (you must register at the park tunity; make time to take a nature Eastern haven for more than 360 office), sand sledding or simply walk through the open surround- species of birds. You can stop at the pause to watch a sunset. Self- ing marshlands. refuge visitor’s center, about five guided hiking trails knit through- Though not open for climb- miles south of , attend out the park. ing, the keeper’s quarters at the one of the excellent public interpre- “Remember to wear your shoes lighthouse have been restored as a tive programs offered weekly during when walking up the dune,” advised visitor’s center and book store. summer and fall months, or pay

Good Eats, Great Sites: •Catch a hang-gliding lesson off the magnificent dunes at Jockey’s Ridge State Park, or just take a sand hike to absorb the views. •Ferry over to Ocracoke Island (it’s free!) to explore the quiet beaches. •Sign up for a watch cruise to learn about residents pods that return year after year. •Satisfy your seafood cravings at Dirty Dick’s Crabhouse, Kill Devil Hills. •Cast your line into the Atlantic Ocean for some prime surf fishing along 100 miles of accessible beaches. •Take a stroll through history at Fort Raleigh National Historic Site on the north end of Roanoke Island, and catch a presentation of “The Lost Colony,” a symphonic outdoor drama. •Sample over 24 flavors of soft-serve ice cream — from apricot to butter rum — at The Snow Bird Ice Cream and Grill, Nags Head. •Visit the birthplace of controlled powered flight at the Wright Brothers National Memorial, Kill Devil Hills. •Take advantage of steady, consistent winds and try your hand at Kite Boarding in spacious . •Enjoy a local favorite — a steaming bowl of she-crab soup and a gorgeous sunset view of — at Tale of the Restaurant, Nags Head. •Stroll the lovely grounds at Currituck Heritage Park and climb the 158-foot-tall lighthouse for a fantastic view of ocean and sound, in Corolla. •Grab your longboard and join surfers from all around the world to ride some epic sets, dude! •Visit the — at 208-feet high, the tallest brick beacon in the U.S. and an enduring symbol of the North Carolina coastline. •Indulge in world-class birding within the sprawling 6,000-acre National Wildlife Refuge, a midway point along the American Flyway. •Take a four-wheel drive onto the northern beaches to view remnants of historic wild horse herds. •Rainy day? Visit the North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island or stop by The Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum, located at the end of Highway 12 in Hatteras Village. 14 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 3 remove your hitch in minutes? no sweat.

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Check out our full line of towing solutions and find the dealer nearest you. 888-CE-HITCH colibert.com Where to Stay: • Camp Hatteras World Class RV Resort, Route 12, Rodanthe, (252) 987-2777. to take a guided canoe tour. (For • Cape Hatteras KOA, Route 12, Rodanthe, (252) 987-2307. information, go to www.fws.gov/ • Cape Point Campground (NPS), 46700 Lighthouse Road, Buxton, (252) 473-2111. • Cape Woods Campground (NPS), 47649 Buxton Back Road, Buxton, (252) 995-5850. peaisland.) • Frisco Campground, 53415 Billy Mitchell Road, Frisco, (252) 473-2111. Camping options quickly open • Frisco Woods Campground, Route 12, Frisco, (252) 995-5208. up this far south, with both private • Hatteras Sands RV Resort, 57316 Eagle Pass Road, Hatteras, (252) 986-2422. • Ocean Waves Campground, Route 12, Waves, (252) 987-2556. and public campgrounds. The Cape • Ocracoke Campground (NPS), 4352 Irvin Garrish Highway, Ocracoke Hatteras National Seashore hosts • Oregon Inlet Campground (NPS), Route 12, Nags Head, (252) 473-211. •  , 125 North End Road, Kinnakeet, (252) 995-5596. four campgrounds: Oregon Inlet, Sands of Time RV Park & Campground Cape Point, Frisco and Ocracoke. All are open during the summer al seashore have cold showers, protection during warm months. with no shade to more luxurious season, and all but Ocracoke are drinking water, tables, fire grills As you roll southward, you’ll locations with sunrise views of available on a first-come, first- and modern restrooms, but no pass through a string of small the Atlantic or sunset views of served basis. Ocracoke campsites campsite hookups. Dump stations towns — Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, Pamlico Sound. may be reserved June through are located nearby, and rang- Avon, Buxton and Frisco. Many Just north of Buxton, keep August by calling (800) 365-2267. ers recommend bringing shade host private campgrounds, rang- your eyes toward the sound. All campgrounds in the nation- awnings and net tents for insect ing from sandy, bare-bones sites Windsurfers and kite boarders

Currituck Beach Heritage Park, at Corolla, is a charming stop for a stroll or picnic.

16 The Big Dune, at Jockey’s Ridge State Park, is magnificent for its panoramic view, great hiking and kite-flying potential. Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 3 Where to Stay: • Camp Hatteras World Class RV Resort, Route 12, Rodanthe, (252) 987-2777. ROUTE 66 • Cape Hatteras KOA, Route 12, Rodanthe, (252) 987-2307. where raised observation decks Regional ROUTE 66 • Cape Point Campground (NPS), 46700 Lighthouse Road, Buxton, (252) 473-2111. provide decent views of remnant RV Network® Dealers • Cape Woods Campground (NPS), 47649 Buxton Back Road, Buxton, (252) 995-5850. wild horse herds that historians • Frisco Campground, 53415 Billy Mitchell Road, Frisco, (252) 473-2111. Family RV Center • Frisco Woods Campground, Route 12, Frisco, (252) 995-5208. believe may have grazed on salt 1250 Northside Drive • Hatteras Sands RV Resort, 57316 Eagle Pass Road, Hatteras, (252) 986-2422. grass here for some 400 years Statesville, NC 28625 • Ocean Waves Campground, Route 12, Waves, (252) 987-2556. (800) 872-3103 • Ocracoke Campground (NPS), 4352 Irvin Garrish Highway, Ocracoke Directly across the highway is Hawley’s Camping Center • Oregon Inlet Campground (NPS), Route 12, Nags Head, (252) 473-211. parking for easy beach access — 1425 Brittany Lane • Sands of Time RV Park & Campground, 125 North End Road, Kinnakeet, (252) 995-5596. Burlington, NC 27215 in fact, some of the best, unclut- (336) 446-7434 tered, flat shoreline for strolling Hawley’s Camping Center gather at Canadian Hole, where intriguing collection. that we found throughout the 4904 TV Tower Road conditions are said to be ideal for It’s also a good stopover if Outer Banks. Garner, NC 27529 (877) 883-2267 wind-born water recreation. Local you’re waiting to catch the free The entire island is owned Hawley’s Camping Center surf shops can outfit you to try ferry to Ocracoke Island — a by the National Park Service — 5117 U.S. Highway 301 S. your hand at the sports, and lessons ride worth your time. On the trip except for the village itself — so Hope Mills, NC 28348 (910) 423-5200 are available. But it’s fun to just sit over, look for small structures on heed posted beach access rules. Hawley’s Camping Center on the warm sand and watch. stilts scattered across the shallow Spin on into town, veering to 6816 Gordon Road Buxton is also the place to Pamlico Sound. the right. Be aware that streets are Wilmington, NC 28411 (910) 798-9904 visit the biggest, most popular of “They look like Tiki Huts, but narrow, two-lane affairs. Ample all Outer Banks lighthouses, the they’re actually duck blinds,” a parking — and a boat ramp — is famed Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. ferry operator told us. “This is available at the road’s end in the for a striking view of the Ocracoke With its familiar black-and- a very popular area for hunting National Park Service parking lot, Lighthouse, the oldest beacon still white spiral-striped swirl, the waterfowl.” conveniently located next to a operating in North Carolina, and beloved lighthouse — known as visitor center. a fitting place to catch a sunset at “America’s Lighthouse” — is the The little island Look across Silver Lake Harbor your journey’s end. [ nation’s tallest, at 508-feet. that could Learn the fascinating details For some, Ocracoke Island may about how this massive sentinel seem like the caboose to the Outer was actually recently relocated Banks — a small, 14-mile stub of to protect it from coastal erosion. an island isolated from the rest of The lighthouse is open to climb the world, reached only by ferry. from mid-April through Columbus But others see that isolation as Day ($6 for adults, $3 for seniors a strength. They consider this the and children under 12 ). ultimate Outer Banks destination: This end of the island also unspoiled by development; miles hosts some decent museums. The of quiet ocean shoreline; a small Frisco Native American Museum village as original and colorful and Natural History Center show- as its inhabitants. (Be sure and cases artifacts and information on listen for the distinctive Ocracoke the first people to inhabit these brogue, where words like “high islands, and offers nature trails tide” become “hoi toide.”) All of that meander through a lush mari- these ingredients conspire to make time forest — a good diversion on Ocracoke a charming, don’t-miss a warm day. destination. At the end of State Route 12 Once you disembark from the in Hatteras Village, next to the Hatteras Island Ferry, again pick ferry landing, you can learn about up State Route 12 and head toward the history of seagoing dangers the far end of the island, toward in these waters at The Graveyard Ocracoke Village — a great place of the Atlantic Museum. There to grab a cold brew and crab cake are more than 1,500 known ship- sandwich. wrecks that rest off the Outer On the way, look to the right Banks. It offers a curious, yet for the Ocracoke Pony Pens,

For more information about visiting the Outer Banks, check: www.outerbanks.org www.nps.gov/caha/capehatteras.htm 17 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 3