Something we never admit but all know is true: Even bad chicken is good. We totally eat—and love—it cold, same as pizza. It can be made with suck-o sauce or questionable “cheese” that looks like baked Shrinky Dinks, and still we accept it. Imagine what properly melty mozzarella-blanketed chicken Parmigiana could be under the best circumstances—coated with potato chips, smeared with a bright electric-green sauce—and you should arrive at this tour de force. Try it in sub form on a long, thick roll, slapped with extra pesto, topped with arugula leaves, and hit with a squeeze of lemon. Or, bypass the broiler and eat the chicken without the cheese or pesto, enjoying the maximum crunch from the chips.

POTATO-CHIP In a food processor, pulse Season each chicken breast on CRUSTED together the arugula, parsley, both sides with a pinch each of , hazelnuts, Parmesan, salt and black pepper. One at a CHICKEN and salt to form a paste, scrap- time, dip each breast in the WITH ARUGULA ing down the sides of the bowl as seasoned flour to coat, shaking PESTO needed. Slowly stream in the off any excess, then dunk in the serves 4 as you continue puls- milk, letting any excess drip off, ing to form a smooth, bright and roll through the potato-chip 1½ cups packed fresh arugula sauce. Taste and adjust for salt mixture, pressing to coat. Place ½ cup packed fresh flat-leaf as needed. (See How to Pesto, on the prepared baking rack. Pat parsley leaves page 139.) any remaining potato-chip coat- 1 medium clove garlic, roughly ing on top of the breasts. chopped Place a baking rack on a parch- ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons ment-lined baking sheet and Bake the chicken breasts until toasted hazelnuts, roughly coat the rack with cooking spray. their crusts are golden, they’re chopped Set a rack in the oven so that just cooked through, and their 2 ounces Parmesan cheese, when your chicken is raised on juices run clear, 18 to 20 min- coarsely grated (scant ¾ cup) the baking rack, it’s 2 or 3 inches utes. Remove the chicken from ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, away from the broiler. Preheat the oven and turn on the broiler. plus more to taste the oven to 400°F. ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Cover each breast with 2 pieces ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon Spread ¼ cup flour on a large of mozzarella. Return the all-purpose flour plate and season with a pinch chicken to the oven and broil Freshly ground black pepper each of salt and black pepper. until the cheese is bubbling and to taste Add the milk to a medium bowl just beginning to brown, about 4 ¼ cup whole milk and season with a pinch each of minutes. Transfer to a large 1½ cups finely crushed kettle- salt and black pepper. Fill a serving platter and let rest for 5 style potato chips separate medium bowl with the minutes. Gently smear a few ¾ teaspoon cayenne pepper potato chip crumbs, the re- spoonfuls of the pesto over each 4 skinless, boneless chicken maining 1 tablespoon flour, and breast and serve. breast halves the cayenne. Stir to combine. (8 to 10 ounces each) 8 (¼-inch-thick) slices fresh unsalted mozzarella

ChICKEN BREaST + MOZZaRELLa + aRUGULa 165