Cirencester Sherston: an introduction Minety Tetbury herston is situated in the southern a marble – it is named Swindon Cotswold Hills in the north west corner after Charnwood S of . Some of the character Forest in Oxfordshire, of the area, like the rest of the Cotswolds, where it was once used Westonbirt derives from the underlying Jurassic limestone, for making ornamental Easton Grey and the long history of the ground under the fireplaces. The name feet of residents and visitors to the village was given in 1799 by Sherston M4 still has an influence today. The rocks of William Smith, who Badminton Wootton Bassett Sherston Parish were laid down in a shallow made the first national sea between 165 and 160 million years ago. geological map and At this time, ‘Sherston’ was about 30°N – who started his Chippenham roughly the latitude the Canary Islands are researches in the Bath today – part way through a long journey area. ‘Forest Marble’ is thus one of the earliest north from the southern hemisphere, borne geological names. by moving tectonic plates. The seas were The seas in which the Forest Marble was warm with strong currents – similar to the deposited were inhabited by a variety of modern Bahamas. This environment gives creatures, largely shellfish, and you can see rise to ooliths, which are tiny egg-shaped some of these preserved as fossils. The most bodies formed by precipitation of lime common fossil remains are shell debris, the (calcium carbonate) on a minute nucleus of remains of long-ago beaches and sandbanks. sand. Deposition of these in the sea, and There were larger creatures in the seas of the compression by sediments deposited on top, time, but they stayed further out to sea where has given rise to the rock (oolitic limestone), there was more to eat – hence their remains which underlies Sherston. are not found here. On the Oolitic limestone is a good adjacent land masses the dinosaurs building stone, used extensively held sway, including Megalosaurus, in Bath and the Oxford colleges the first dinosaur to be named, as well as Cotswold villages like whose remains have been found in Sherston. The old houses in the rocks of the same age near Oxford. village are largely built of, and on, The first birds (now the only a hard oolitic limestone called the surviving relatives of the dinosaurs) Forest Marble. This rock underlies were beginning to take to the air. the whole Parish and can be seen The vegetation would have looked in small disused quarries and road odd to our eyes – there were no cuttings. It is not strictly speaking flowering plants then, but there were swampy forests ice age, about 10,000 years ago. The last ice though there are wetter ‘Scorranston’) was in 896AD, of such plants as conifers, cycads and the age lasted about 100,000 years, and a large patches with more clay as you but the settlement had clearly maidenhair fern tree Ginkgo. A specimen icecap accumulated over most of Britain. may discover on your walks. then been in existence for some of this ‘living fossil’ species, apparently Though the main icecap did not quite reach As soon as the ice began time. Sherston later re-appears unchanged since the Jurassic, is planted near Sherston, the landscape would have been to melt at the end of the last in records describing the Battle Sherston Post Office – a living link to the time tundra-like, with accumulations of ice and ice age, hunters are likely of Sherston in 1016. This was when its ancestral relatives grew on the islands snow on higher ground. We now know that to have moved in, followed part of the struggle for the round about the present site of Sherston. at the end of the ice age the temperature by pastoralists. Adjacent throne of between the After the Forest Marble had been rose remarkably quickly and this would have areas had significant human Saxon Edmund Ironside and deposited, the sea level began to rise, and a generated large volumes of meltwater, roaring populations in the Bronze and the Danish King Cnut (Canute). succession of other rocks was deposited on down the existing valleys and excavating them Iron Ages. However, no local The battle was inconclusive, top, culminating in a thick layer of chalk in close to their present depth. The excavated prehistoric remains have been but Edmund settled the matter the succeeding Cretaceous Period. All this material was deposited on the plains beyond found, though the area may by dying later that year, leaving has gone – eroded away in the succeeding Malmesbury, or swept out to sea. well have been cultivated in places given Cnut to become a great early mediaeval king. 60 million years of the Tertiary Period when the relatively well-drained fertile soils. It was Local interest centres around a Saxon warrior Britain once again rose above the sea. One the Romans who first left significant traces called John, who was nicknamed Rattlebone legacy of the Tertiary Period is the 3° NW-SE on the landscape, most notably with the because of the lusty blows he gave with his slope of the Parish, reflecting the slope of the Fosse Way (the Roman Road from Exeter to sword. Edmund promised Rattlebone lands in underlying rocks, which were horizontal when Lincoln) which forms the southern boundary Sherston if he won, and though Rattlebone laid down. The rocks may have been tilted by of the Parish. In 1987 the remains of a small was mortally wounded he fought on, the uplift of the Alps far to the south. Romano-British farm house were discovered to clutching a tile to his wound to staunch the A striking feature of the area is the the north of the village. The farm apparently blood. This image lives on in the Rattlebone trench-like valleys which hold the River Avon grew and prospered until it was attacked Inn (see below) and also the logo of the and its tributaries. The modern river is not and destroyed, possibly in the early 5th local primary school. For more history about large enough to have cut them – almost Another legacy of the ice age is the large century. This may have been the result of a Sherston take the village walk! certainly they date from the end of the last amount of broken stone (brash) in the soils Saxon raid, or a local dispute following the which you will see if you cross a ploughed breakdown of law and order after Roman field. This was mostly produced by weathering troops were recalled from Britain. The remains of the exposed surface rock by frost, freeze- of the last owners of the farm were found thaw and other similar processes. The soils of under the fallen buildings, and a subsequent the area have benefited, however, by being archaeological investigation suggested that south of the main icecap. Most areas of Britain they were murdered. are covered in a layer of sticky boulder clay At some stage after this a Saxon derived from the moving ice – in Sherston settlement grew up on the flat top of a Parish the soils are free of this, and thus are spur of land formed by tributaries of the relatively well-drained and easy to work. This River Avon. The first known mention of benefits the predominantly arable agriculture, Sherston in a written document (recorded as 10 A village walk 8 9 he walk starts in the High Street at the town planning. before. The purpose was 16th century. This was also once a pub, the Post Office. Stand with the Post Office Sherston seems to raise funds for the Foresters Arms. 6 4 2 T on your left and look down the High to have been a Parish Church. After the 4 The narrow road joining the High Street Street. The houses were built wide apart to moderately successful 7 religious reforms of the is Swan Barton, the word ‘Barton’ indicating a

accommodate the weekly market established small town for a 5 3 11 11 16th century it may have farmstead. The ‘Swan’ when Sherston was given Borough status while, but the market been sold and used as a element derives from sometime between 1170 and 1241. Borough died out by the 16th 12 poorhouse, housing the The Swan, the largest status was granted by the King to a local century probably poor and needy. One of Sherston’s old pubs, landowner who hoped to make a profit from because it was way in which funds were which occupied the rents and market tolls. The suffering from competition from larger places raised for this in later years was the annual Ale corner of Swan Barton landowner laid out building like Tetbury and Malmesbury. A disastrous fire Feast. The Ale was brewed before Whitsun and the High Street. plots known as burgage around 1511 is reputed to have destroyed and while it lasted all ale houses in the village Further down the High Street is the Angel plots, with a narrow frontage most of the village, which may have been would be closed. As there were around Hotel. It was built in the early 16th century on the High Street and land the coup de grâce. In 1835, Sherston lost its fifteen of these at the time, the Church was and as you can see from the date stone, Mrs stretching behind them to Borough status and became a village. guaranteed a sizable profit Winifred Goodcheap was the roads running parallel with 1 On your left is the National School for the poor. The Feast was owner in 1648. the High Street. These plots building, built in 1845 on the site of the old accompanied by general 5 Back on the opposite would be let to people who tithe barn. This provided primary education merrymaking, showing that side of the road is the Old felt it was an advantage to to the children of Sherston until 2005, when combining fundraising and Pharmacy, a most original live in the High Street, such as tradesmen, increasing numbers forced a move to a having fun is not a modern building. The Neale family lived craftsmen and even other landowners. This modern building on the edge of the village. invention. here from the late 19th century basic arrangement can still be The old school has been Church House is linked by to 1933, carrying on business seen, many of the houses in the re-developed as a community an arch to a late 17th century as chemists, veterinary surgeons High Street having long gardens building hosting the post office and building which was once a pub, The Bell. The and manufacturers of sheep dip and other with boundaries corresponding to other businesses. carved sheep over the archway dates from the chemicals. The last Neale, Duncan, is known the original burgage plots. Smaller 2 Walk a few yards down the 1930s when Mr Herbert Goulding opened his for having arranged his own funeral 11 years houses were subsequently built street. Church House (numbers butcher’s shop, which continued as a butchers before he died in 1933, buying a coffin which along the back roads. The core 13 and 15 on your right) was built until recently. he kept under the bed and inscribing his name of the modern village is thus in 1511 on a burgage plot given 3 On the other side of the road note the on the family tombstone, leaving spaces for based on a piece of mediaeval to the Church over 100 years shell porch on Huntly House, built in the late the date and age of death.

c1895 c1903 c1905 c1905 c1905 c1915 6 On the west side of known locally as The Cliff, Court Street. On the left is the village the Victoria Cross for bravery at the Siege of the street is Balcony House, and under your feet are some recreation ground, Penny Mead. This was Sebastapol in the Crimean War. reputed to be the oldest in the underground mediaeval once very uneven with huge lumps, clearly an Probably the most famous of Sherston’s village. Although the façade quarries, the spoil from which earthwork of some sort. These were cheerfully clergy is Henry Chichele, rector 1400 -1403, dates from the late 1500s, you can see down the slope. levelled ‘in minutes’ as a goodwill gesture in who founded All Souls College Oxford and older material is incorporated 9 Walk along Cliff Road, 1944 by the 626th Engineers of the US Army, was Archbishop of Canterbury 1414 -1443. into the structure, as it is in noting the Congregational stationed in the village in preparation for Shakespeare gives him a long speech at the other village houses. Queen Chapel, which dates from the D-day. The loss of historical interest has to be beginning Anne is said to have called in here on the 1820s, and its burial ground. This has now balanced against a much better football pitch! of Henry V, way to take the waters at Bath in 1705. It is been converted into a house. A little further Continue along Court Street. Ahead you persuading the rumoured there are tunnels which connect on is the British School Room, which was can see the Rattlebone Inn, one King to attack the cellars of Balcony House to the mediaeval opened in 1844. This was part of a national of only two survivors of Sherston’s the French. quarry under the junction of Cliff Road and movement which provided primary education 17th century pubs (the other The ambitious Silver Street, or even further afield. independent of the Church of England. There being the Carpenters Arms on the Chichele 7 At the far end of the High Street is was a system in which a teacher taught the road to the left). Note the inn sign probably spent the Tolsey, which was where the market tolls older children and they in turn taught the depicting the local hero. little time in the were paid and where the official weights younger ones, thus enabling a large number 11 Walk round to the Church. village, taking and measures were stored. Since the market of pupils to be taught by one teacher. The lych gate was built in the the income and ceased it has had many uses, including 10 At the north end of Cliff Road is the old 17th century and restored as paying a deputy to perform his duties. cottages, a youth hostel and the local HQ of Court House, thought to date from the early a war memorial. The Church was re-built Leave the Church by the lych gate and turn the British Legion. It is now the 16th century, extending round the about 1170 on the site of a right. 12 On a triangle of grass at the doctors’ surgery. corner into Court Street, where a Saxon foundation. It has much of road junction is the Jubilee Tree, Turn right along Silver Street, fine shell porch canopy covers the interest, and a guide is available an acer planted in 1897 by a common name in the West main entrance. This was where for purchase inside. To the right Sir George Holford, founder of Country, though of unknown local justice, concerned mostly of the porch is an old weathered Westonbirt Arboretum, to celebrate significance here. with nuisances or trespass, was statue, which locals believe is John Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee. 8 At the corner of Silver Street administered by the Lord of the Rattlebone holding the tile to his Continue back to the Post Office. and Cliff Road (name changed Manor or his steward in a ‘Court wound. Cynical historians point out This concludes the walk, though from Back Road in the 1950s) Leet’ or ‘Court Baron’. Offenders it is a priest holding a missal. There there are many other features of there is a view out over the were kept in the village lockups in are many interesting tombstones, interest visitors can explore for River Avon towards Badminton. the cellars. including that of Private George themselves. The steep slope below you is Turn right and walk down Strong, one of the first recipients of

c1915 c1925 c1935 c1935 c1935 c1940 c1945 General information Footpaths and the Law Reporting Problems The walks included in this guide all follow Although the footpaths in this guide are all Public Rights of Way. As such you have full Public Rights of Way, you may occasionally right to walk along them freely. encounter obstructions or consider an area Footpaths are typically on private land, to be unsafe. Should this occur, we would be please respect this. You and any dog(s) are grateful if you would report the nature and legally required to keep to the line of the path location of the obstruction or hazard, either and not stray onto land on either side. to: Please remember that the local area is The Clerk farmland and it is not uncommon for you to Sherston Parish Council come across horses or other livestock in T: 01666 840351 fields. Dog owners are reminded that they E: [email protected] have a legal responsibility to keep their dog or to: under close control. The Public Rights of Way Officer In fields where crops are growing, follow the footpath line wherever possible. Dogs T: 01225 756178 must be kept on the footpath in fields where E: [email protected] there are crops to avoid damage. Safety At all times you are expected to use your own judgement regarding personal safety before proceeding along any of the given routes. Areas are often muddy, even in dry conditions and conditions can change suddenly. So please ensure that you wear appropriate footwear, with good grip and have warm waterproof clothing with you. In a separate section in the pocket with the maps is an extract from the Countryside Code, which provides general advice on walking in the countryside.