Unveiling industry best practices Knitting & Knitwear March 2020 March 2020 March 2020 ISSN 1999-2076 ISSN 8/2012 Reg. 2020 March
www.textiletoday.com.bd New electricity New up eat tari to RMG sector’s competitiveness in global market New electricity New up eat tari to RMG sector’s competitiveness in global market See advertisement at page 19 at See advertisement See advertisement at page 31 at See advertisement Bangladesh See advertisement at page 13 at See advertisement See advertisement at page 11 at See advertisement outlook of the industry reality & crafting the future & crafting reality The time to reflect on today’s reflect time to The Driving business with knowledge with business Driving
See advertisement at page 96 at See advertisement Profitable & Eective Organization through People Leadership & Excellence Leadership People through Organization & Eective Profitable See advertisement at page 15 at See advertisement See advertisement at page 27 at See advertisement How to protect protect protect to to How How from from business business your your Corona-impact! Corona-impact! Volume 13 | Issue 03 | 100 Pages | BDT 200, USD 10 200, | BDT | 100 Pages 03 13 | Issue Volume GOTS Approved Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS 5.0)
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O -68• -68% % Driving business with knowledge Editorial Panel NOCAUSTIC & PEROXIDE IN Editor in Chief Prof. Md. Monirul Islam KNIT PRE TREATMENT
Executive Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan USE
Technical Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim BIOLASE APC Consulting Editor Dr. NN Mahapatra Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz COMBINED ENZYMATIC C.N. Sivaramakrishnan Ashfaque Ahmed SCOURING & Associate Editor Jamal Abdun Naser Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher) BIO-POLISHING Managing Editor IN SAME BATH Akhi Akter
Sub Editor Sanjoy Kumar Saha Market Technical Team Leader Co-ordinator Setara Begum Member S.N. Abdullah “BOOST UP YOUR” Amzad Hossain Monir Rakibul Islam
Editor & Publisher KNIT DYEING A.S.M Tareq Amin
th PRODUCTION & SAVINGS Published on 21 March 2020 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email : [email protected] Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd Cost Water Printed by: VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.
The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure Chemicals Steam accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied and does not accept responsibility for loss or Environment Time damages of any unsolicited material or contribution. © All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2020 Volume 13, Issue 03 (March 2020) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka. For Better Tomorrow
Bangladesh Bangladesh ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 Driving business with knowledge March 2020
Bangladesh Textile Today www.textiletoday.com.bd
Volume 13 | Issue 03 | 120 Pages | BDT 200, USD 10 On the Cover See advertisement at page 19 See advertisement at page 33 See advertisement at page 29 Driving business with knowledge How to protect New electricity your business from tari to eat up Corona-impact! RMG sector’s competitiveness in global market ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ Mosdorf GmbH & Co. KG is a well known The time to reflect on today’s
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GOTS Approved Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS 5.0) Content Advertisement March’ 20 | Volume 13 | Issue 03
12-16 Editorial 22-23 In Focus 29-30 Traditional Textiles
How to protect your business Why will Vietnam overtake Woolen ‘shawl’ and hilly from Corona-impact! Bangladesh in RMG export? people’s livelihood 17-18 Cover Story 24 Export update 32-33 Export Diversification
Apparel export earning dips 5.53% in July-February of FY20
The time to reflect on today’s 25-26 Smart Textiles Artificial turf can be a new reality and crafting the future business prospect outlook of the industry 34-36 Exclusive Interview 20-21 Top Story
Smart textile: the new frontier in apparel sector
We are building Bangladesh Brands sending letters to the together manufacturers canceling and 28 Cover Plus slashing orders New electricity tariff to eat up 38-40 Denim Today RMG sector’s competitiveness in global market Denim emerges as major potential export item for Bangladesh
Content March’ 20 | Volume 13 | Issue 03
Factory Tales Knitting Today Printing Today
45-52 Factory Tales 63-64 Knitting Today 81-82 Printing Today
Latest innovations in Digital Pai Lung Future of retail- Paradigm Printing two-carriages shift in RMG business flat knitting machine 84-85 Advanced 54-55 Cotton Today Printing 66 Knitting Savvy Direct sublimation printing- advanced printing in terms of Different types of quality and sustainability stitches in knitting 86-88 Textile Icon 68 Sustainable Cotton
Bangladesh attains largest Cotton and yarn update: Yarn growth with 73% increase in price may go down by 15-20 GOTS certification cents per kg in next month
56-58 Youth Icon 70-72 Factory Tales Value-added products are need of the hour
89 Printing Today
SM Sourcing steps up for green building project
We should plan smartly to face the pandemic coronavirus Customized 3D printing shoes by Vivobarefoot 59 Fiber Today 67 Q&A 90 Sustainable In this remaining Chemical reality, how will this increased
Asia Pacific Rayon to expand electricity price viscose rayon market in affect your business Bangladesh Asutex seminar ‘One step competitiveness? forward, towards a sustainable future’ held
Editorial
How to protect your business from Corona-impact!
Tareq Amin
Coronavirus and resulting disease Covid-19 is now for solving a human problem) but only with the motif a global pandemic, it is a reality. Digging out the of profit-making, is also a wrong thing done. causes that resulted in this epidemic is one way that will help us to find out the reasons for the sheer However, in this reality today, we need to protect failure of the global mechanism which could not resist (Corona-protect) us or live with the reality (Corona- its spread and yet could not find out a cure for the lifestyle) by adopting some principal in our lifestyle. disease. We need to revisit our business strategies as well. This article will try to depict some way outs, which Now we are in a situation to take both aware and can be implemented in the short run but benefits cautious efforts to protect us and our businesses and could be achieved in both the short and long run. also of course not letting out the thinking the causes why today the world is in this situation. Do not panic, stay aware
While reflecting on the core reason of today’s reality, The rational mind does not work while you are we need to understand the fact that ‘quarantine’ and panicked. Do not allow the sources of panic to come ‘isolation’ is not the same though the dictionary shows into you, rather attach yourself to the sources where you these are synonyms. Mankind cannot survive in you would get tranquility and assurance. isolation, society as a whole could be quarantined but However, it does not mean you put your hand in a fire all its activities (at least basic) must be continued. in a cold mind without awareness. You need to remain An individual or hospital or home could be carefully very cautious and attentive as a human being always separated to resist spread over but basic needs must should be. Reflecting on the beliefs of mankind will be fulfilled. A city and country should have been give the strength to overcome any such situation. quarantined but all citizen services must be kept Keep trust that Corona still is only a virus and functional. If China could have done this right person humankind can overcome it. It is only science must not leave their city/country the disease must and there is some knowledge available already, not have spread all over the world today. so we need to practice them. We need to take Further back if we look at the possible sources (as responsibility for the people in our business. We per global media) of the first human contamination, need to make them aware to live a Corona-lifestyle. we still can understand that it was a sheer mistake to Business premises may have Corona-drills like fire- approach a research without human necessity (need drills we do.
12 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Do you know the eco-impact of a deep colored t-shirt?
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Some strategies to protect your business Remain from corona-impact conservative Look for in growth; Corona Stress on the find out the protected transformation ways of cost markets scopes reduction Increase the eciency of Do not panic, Build supply chain stay aware self-reliance and financial management
Remain conservative in growth; find out the ways of efficiency of your supply chain. Business mostly fails cost reduction due to wrong financial management; this is the time you may reflect on this and improve your financial efficiency. In this reality, we should not be aggressive in pursuing growth in revenue we need to be very Do the pre and post costing properly and review the strategic as we can increase our profit as if we can financial and supply aspects of orders and set your survive the turmoil time. Global exports surely will preferences in which orders are suitable for your shrink and so its impact will surely touch the export- business. Better you may go order-less to reduce oriented textile and apparel industry. your loss. At this juncture, businesses will fall mainly due to financial indiscipline and mismanagement. At this point, we need to focus on our strengths and need to reduce risk. Without being desperate Look for Corona-protected markets on taking junk orders we should rely on trustworthy business lines. Remember if the situation worsens Give careful study on the markets in all directions- in Europe and the US, the trust and commitments horizontal or vertical, in geographically or in a of your customers will be tested. All the contracts product category. Its true that fast fashion is not you are making; please make sure that the clauses a basic commodity but still, apparel and textile protect you. If your mainstream client base shrinks, is. The ‘Corona lifestyle’ may bring new market you also need to adopt a contraction policy. opportunities. In a quarantined situation, the spending capacity of people will go down. However, of course, this is always still an opportunity to find out suitable alternative (must be safe) market, At the same time sales of online platforms will which will bring diversity in your portfolio. increase while physical stores are likely to lose business further. With a careful study on the market, This is a time to concentrate on cutting costs further this is the time you may go for necessary innovations not by squeezing the people of your company but in products and manufacturing processes. by engaging and motivating them to combat the challenging time. The survival instincts of people Many dream developments which you could not do will find out the ways. So this is still the best time to in your good time (due to priority miss), now you implement your efficiency tools which you could not have more time to concentrate there. As some of the implement till now through your better days. global manufacturing bases like China, Vietnam, and South Korea have been badly hit by Coronavirus; still Increase the efficiency of supply chain and financial you would have some spaces in the global market. management But in medium to long run, China will revive and if the Most importantly look at your cash flows, do not market in Europe and the USA do not revive you will become defaulter in this difficult time, remember need to bring big changes in your product portfolio. most likely now you will not get enough support from your banks and other financial institutions. If Build self-reliance you have a good business, concentrate on building Today we can realize that a business is more relationships and trust in your supply chain, now you sustainable if its raw materials and market are in its will get benefits from your supply partners. control. It is always true an industry like our textile If till now you have not given value to your suppliers and apparel is very much prone to global or regional in achieving their trust, please do from now onward. shakes. So, a smart businessman will have medium to Keep the lowest possible inventory and increase the a long-term plan to reduce the global dependence of
14 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03
Editorial
China’s production share in selected industries, 2018 Industry % Share of Global Production Industry’s Exports Share, Impact on Global in China, 2018 % of total 2018 Supply Chain Household goods 35% 33% High Hi-tech goods 46% 27% High Textiles and apparel 54% 23% High Machinery 38% 14% Moderate Rubber and plastic 38% 8% Moderate Pharmaceuticals and 29% 8% Moderate medical goods Chemical products 42% 7% Moderate his business. may help you come out from the comfort zone creating new opportunities. We just need to be If not full at least for a segment of business should honest in finding out transformation scopes keeping be safe from such parasite business model. Now all eyes open by remaining aware and open. not only in Bangladesh everybody including the European and the USA all are adopting strategies to Bangladesh Textile Today has initiated a project become more self-reliant. It is always good to realize called ‘Setting Transformation Blueprint’ for the that Bangladesh has a very big population and its textile and apparel industry to help the sector and its consumption will always continue to rise. businesses to craft the ways to transformation. Today we are in the ‘Maturity to Decline’ stage, if we do not And also, the country is located in a place, while find out a way of transformation, we will not find a there is a huge market (population) around it. For path to sustain and grow further. the supply of the raw materials, the businesses which add more value addition stages in-house are safer Transformation means conscious substantial change. today. However internal integration of businesses in It would have been good if you did it in a time of the country will help overcome the situation. abundance. However, most people do not opt for transformation unless it falls into difficulties. So, Stress on the transformation scopes better late than never, take the transformation deal. You may join Bangladesh Textile Today, STB There are always ways to overcome it. Some you like initiative which will help you find a realistic way of some you may not like. Maybe you are habituated transformation amid this crisis. doing business in a comfort zone. The reality today Vietnam apparel manufacturing battling Coronavirus Desk Report
Apparel manufacturing in Vietnam is of Vietnam Textile and Apparel running at minimum capacity as facing mammoth challenges as the Association (VITAS), in a recent forum. staffs are quarantined in Binh coronavirus outbreak hampers material Xuyen District of northern Vinh “These companies, which account imports from China – from where 60% Phuc Province, where a lockdown for around 90% of the industry, have of textile materials are sourced. order to hold the spread of the virus. lessened working hours, with supply according to the Vietnam’s General orders remaining upset due to the On the other hand, Vietnam export Statistics Office (GSO), in January, Coronavirus, Truong Van explained. to China is also suffering. Vietnam Vietnam’s imports of fabric from Cotton and Spinning Association According to a report in a China fell 18.1% to $950 million. (VCOSA) said a record number of Vietnamese newspaper, some Textiles export, in all markets fell by producers had informed plunging Vietnamese factories have either 21% year on year to $2.6 billion in cotton orders from the country, and run out of raw material stock, January. At the same time, footwear are worried about this year’s profits. some companies’ stock will last export fell by 9.7% to $1.6 billion. a few weeks more, and some A 23.5% fall in Vietnam’s textile “Many medium to small textile have enough raw material for a exports in January year-on-year, producers will expire of feedstock few months. Given the current while imports fell 28.5%. by the end of this month and may condition of China, ordering more "The industry has never seen such have to close down next month,” said stock has little scope. a steep drop," stressed Truong Van. Truong Van Cam, Deputy Chairman Many garment factories are
16 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Cover Story The time to reflect on today’s reality and crafting the future outlook of the industry
Tareq Amin
The world is undergoing an unprecedented crisis due to the attack of the Novel Coronavirus resulting in a widespread pandemic of Covid 19. A major part of the world is already undergoing lockdown and other places are almost obvious to follow as well.
Humanity can never survive like this in the long run, activities must come back. As the creator has created this disease, so he must have created the cure as well, the medicine and vaccine, of course, will be discovered. The virus itself will become weak day by day and down the line within a certain month (if not weeks) and so we hope we will be able to get rid of this situation for sure.
But another obvious thing is the impact of the current incident which for sure going to put an enormous impact on future lifestyle and the industry as well. think about the life. Getting out of Viewpoint towards life is the The industry will never be as it anxiety and fear, we should reflect fundamental of everything. A has been these days. At this point, on how life has been and how the belief of maximizing life (profit) is all of us have a bit more time to industry has been. a complete unachievable (never-
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 17 Cover Story
Globalization and Fast Fashion the same anymore. The world Globalization only have made the life difficult should be built on a real economy and Fast Fashion and restless mounting the people that will provide progress and only have made and the businesses with pressure prosperity with stability. An (not excitement always) and industry in which raw materials the life difficult stress (of expected growth), and markets are not under its and restless created an unprecedentedly control can never be defined as mounting the unsustainable economic world. an industry. Such industry (like the Eventually, climate and social apparel industry in Bangladesh) is people and the life also got unsustainable. The always vulnerable to many global businesses restless competition of increasing incidents. So, this is the high time with pressure production efficiency resulted to realize the necessity of real and in accumulation and disparity of independent industry building. (not excitement wealth distribution. always) and How a buyer can cancel the stress (of The current size of the global orders of goods that are ready economy is nowhere near close for shipment already! In the last expected to the real asset the earth has. few days, many of the western growth), It is already swelled many times brands have canceled and created an and so today it cannot survive suspended many orders for which the shock of shut down of Bangladeshi manufacturers already unprecedentedly one month or so. The western have spent about a billion dollars unsustainable economy which has been the or more. Where these factories will economic world. beneficiary of globalization and now go seeking resolution? how fast fashion in an environment of they will be compensated? Eventually, neocolonialism today is under the climate and highest risk of fall. The empires/ In the coming days, the country social life bailout of trillion dollars may not should look into its resources and also got useful when you don’t have real strengths to build a much more economic production in place. self-reliant manufacturing industry. unsustainable. Unprecedented bailout programs We must put a value on ourselves, The restless declared by western governments on our resources on our materials. competition most likely won’t be enough to All these resources could be protect the current economic order. utilized for much more value for of increasing many more outcomes providing production The rest of the world has been a better and secure life. We are efficiency following the same trend (of looking forward to a great future globalization and fast fashion) and onward. resulted in has become the victim of it. The accumulation Coronavirus is going to affect the and disparity export industry badly connected with globalization and fast of wealth fashion. Bangladesh is one of distribution. them. If western retailers get the bailout support from their governments (from printed fiat ending desire) thing that creates currency), definitely they are not dissatisfaction and destruction going to give compensation to all around. Freedom is another the manufacturers in Bangladesh. unrealistic thing the world has Many Bangladeshi companies will been pursuing throughout the just die and the banking sector century. We all should reflect may plunge alongside them. now the necessity of guidance, the necessity of responsibility. A When the world will get the guided world where all are bonded vaccine and medicine of the and built on their responsibility will virus and disease, people will be much different than the one of revive the economy and then today. the future world must not be
18 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Innovation in Textile Chemicals for a Sustainable society
Surface Science is our core technology having 78 years history in chemicals from Japan
Liaison office: Hong Kong Nicca Chemical Ltd. Suvastu Suraiya Trade Center, 3A (3rd Floor) House# 744 & 746, Road# 10, Avenue# 04, 57 Kamal Ataturk Avenue, Block-B DOHS Mirpur, Mirpur, Dhaka- 1216, Bangladesh. Banani, Dhaka-1213, Bangladesh Phone: +880 258071173 Tel: +880255033391 Mobile: +880 1730 712509 E-mail: [email protected] Top Story Brands sending letters to the manufacturers canceling and slashing orders 69 member companies of BGMEA have faced worth USD 93 million of order cancellation till Wednesday (18 March). Also, worth USD 7.38 million work orders have been suspended
Textile Today Analysis
Some of the clothing retailers and brands have started delivering letters to the local manufacturers asking them for cancellation and slashing of work orders as the clothing stores are shut down in Italy and Spain due to the Coronavirus.
The buyers said until Monday they waited for the signals from their headquarters about the cancellation and slashing down of the work orders as many stores have been shut down in the US and Europe, especially in Italy and Spain.
“Finally, I served letters to our local business on canceling some upcoming work orders on Monday, 16-03-2020. I waited for some days and when the Figure: The BGMEA last month sought special financial assis- situation has been turning severe my headquarters tance from the central bank to steer clear of any negative impact of the Coronavirus on the garment supply chain. instructed me to slash work orders to some extent,” said a Country Manager of a European retail giant Another Country Manager of a European retailer also asking not to be named. said his company is also planning to cancel the work orders in Bangladesh due to the Coronavirus. However, he did not mention the amount of which he has planned to slash or cancel the work orders. “Many of the stores have been shut down in Europe The amount of cancellation and slashing of work for the thin presence of customers. If the sale is low orders is depending on the severity of the spread of then there is no need for further production because Coronavirus in the main European and US markets. of a shortage of storage facility,” the Manager also said.
If the situation prolongs, the amount of cancellation A garment manufacturer said some 40 percent work of work orders may be more and if the situation orders have been slashed down in his factory because improves soon the amount will be very low, he said. of Corona. “My buyer has already served a notice to me in this regard. I am worried about the future of my A good number of clothing retail stores in Italy and business,” said a leading garment exporter on 18 march. Spain, two major markets of clothing brands have been shut down. As a result, the presence of customers in Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters the shopping malls is very low and sales is also low. Association (BGMEA) has already sent a letter to Bangladesh Bank seeking financial assistance to face However, the manager said his company asked the local the fallouts of Coronavirus in the garment sector. manufacturers to continue the making of the goods of which have already been cut for making the apparel. The BGMEA last month sought special financial assistance from the central bank to steer clear of any The main pressure on work orders will be noticed negative impact of the Coronavirus on the garment from next month as many of the factories, especially supply chain. the small and medium ones will have a fewer number of work orders, but at the same time, they will have The supply chain of fabrics and other raw materials to pay their workers. has been affected badly due to the outbreak as Bangladeshi apparel makers source 46% of their raw “However, if the situation improves my company will materials from China, the BGMEA said in a letter to place even more work orders in Bangladeshi garment the Bangladesh Bank. factories,” he also said.
20 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Top Story
A good number of clothing retail stores have been shut down INNOVATION: IT’S IN Globally consumer demands falling everyday OUR DNA
swisst extile machin ery.ch In fiscal 2018-19, imports from China amounted to $13.63 billion, $5.02 billion of which were textiles.
"Given the dependence of the garment sector on China for its raw materials and the fact that the epidemic may linger, it could prove fatal for the industry as the supply chain will be paralyzed," the letter read.
Overall imports from China plummeted 21% in January from a year earlier, and plunged further to 37% in the first week of February, according to data from the National Board of Revenue and the BGMEA.
Against this backdrop, the BGMEA called for support in the form of disaster assistance fund, credit guarantee scheme and amendment to the back-to- back letter of credit (LCs) rules.
While exporters will negotiate with buyers, banks should be willing to extend the credit term by 30- 60 days due to the late arrival of raw materials and increased costs for the extended period.
"Given the scenario that there could be potential delays to recover from this crisis, the central bank may consider a special credit guarantee scheme to encourage commercial banks so that they can continue to support the industry."
Since goods from Chinese suppliers would be delayed, Bangladesh Bank may issue policy directives to the scheduled banks to amend the respective clauses in the back-to-back LCs to make the payments to suppliers conditional and justified, according to the BGMEA letter.
The association also asked its member factories to raise awareness among workers about the virus and opened a ‘BGMEA Coronavirus control room’ at its head office.
Meanwhile, a survey by Hong Kong-based QIMA said after the Coronavirus, Bangladesh will benefit from the fallout of the Coronavirus as most of the globally renowned Canton Vaud, Switzerland, 1982: Daniel Borel’s pc mouse companies are planning to shift work orders from China to invention goes into series production, connecting humans other Asian countries, including Bangladesh. intuitively with their computers. Several billion of these ingenious little devices now click and glide through Nine out of 10 businesses report being affected by countless functions and applications. the Covid-19 epidemic, with US-based respondents more likely to be hit than EU-based companies and the regions reliant on Chinese suppliers feeling the most impact.
Invented in Switzerland. Where the same innovative spirit drives textile progress today. In Focus Why will Vietnam overtake Bangladesh in RMG export?
Textile Today Analysis
Bangladesh has been struggling to retain its position as the second-largest garment exporter worldwide as Vietnam is performing well in recent months. Currently, Bangladesh is the second-largest garment exporter worldwide by grabbing 6.4 percent market share while Vietnam is in the third position holding 6.2 percent. Current position of Bangladesh as the garment exporter worldwide However, over the last year, Vietnam’s export has been rising rapidly and it is expecting that the shipment of apparel items will cross $40 billion at the end of the year. To achieve this target, the industry needs export value growth of at least 11-12 percent for the rest of the year. Figure: Vietnam has been performing strongly as this country has more advantages than Bangladesh. So, Bangladesh might lose its position to Vietnam as the country might not achieve the target at the end of the year. Over concentration of the industry to a few product Bangladesh exported garment items worth items ranging in the lower tier of price and over- $21.84billion between July and February, the first concentration of markets are also among the top- eight months of the current fiscal year. The export rated challenges. declined by 5.53 percent year-on-year, according to During January-November 2019 several 61 factories data from the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB). have been shut down that resulted in a job cut of The receipt from the garment export is also 13.45 31600 workers. percent below the target for eight months at Why is Vietnam performing strong? $25.24billion, the data also said. Between July and Vietnam has been performing strongly as this February, Bangladesh fetched $10.89billion from the country has more advantages than Bangladesh. shipment of knitwear products and $10.94billion from Vietnam has recently signed the landmark Free Trade the woven product shipments, according to data. Agreement (FTA) with the EU, which has allowed The slowdown in export growth is a reflection of the Vietnam to enjoy the zero-duty benefit to this largest decaying competitiveness of Bangladesh’s RMG industry. trading bloc of the world. Bangladesh’s RMG export dipped by 7.74% during Since the EU and Vietnam signed the FTA, July-November of FY2019-20, whereas as per the Bangladesh has been facing a challenge from latest information Vietnam’s export grew by 6.41% Vietnam as both countries have been producing during July-October 2019. the same kinds of products. However, Vietnam has Major reasons behind such slowdown in export the diversified goods at a competitive price, which could be – Bangladesh cannot afford. Stronger currency exchange rate Geographically, Vietnam is closer to the EU and other western countries, Bangladesh does not have Policy incentives by competitor countries which are such an advantage of geographical location. So, why they are being able to get more business by Vietnamese garment manufacturers can easily ship lowering prices. Honorable Prime Minister has kindly the goods with lower lead time. granted few policies support for the RMG industry and most of those are yet to be materialized. Bangladesh needs a long lead time to the EU and the US. So, in the case of air shipment of goods, Increase in production cost which is significantly fueled Bangladeshi manufacturers need to pay high cost by a minimum wage increase in December last year to the airliners, but Vietnamese manufacturers can Poor efficiency and relatively higher cost of doing easily ship the goods with airliners at lower costs. business (evident by the Doing Business Index) are Vietnam has a lot of Chinese investment, which is a significant drawbacks to our trade competitiveness. big plus point for this country. Higher productivity
22 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 In Focus
Clothing exports by Bangladesh and in the factories of Vietnam is also a big advantage of Vietnam in billions of USD them. As for Vietnam, which is now almost at par with
Bangladesh, the investors are mostly from China. 35 32.92 33.07 32.64 31.5 Many Chinese investors have factories in Vietnam in 30 28.67 29.21 26.6 27 addition to those they run in mainland China. As a 25 25 22 result, the benefits of product development in China 20 also trickle down to Vietnam. This makes the job 15 of sourcing by buyers easier in Vietnam. This is the main reason why Vietnam is doing so well in RMG 10 exports in recent times. 5 While Bangladesh is a popular destination for 0 manufacturing low-end items at the cheapest rate 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 globally, Vietnam produces high-end apparel with a strong Sources: WTO and EPB backward linkage industry and educated workforce. But the latest ease of doing business index reveals customers in the Western world. that Vietnam is still a better choice for investment Bangladesh is still lagging in the production of than Bangladesh. The World Bank report published technical and smart clothing items, due to which in October last year shows that Vietnam fell one it could not tap into the global market for hospital notch down to 70th and Bangladesh moved eight clothing, school uniforms and armed forces, worth notches up to 168th in the global ranking. billions of dollars. Even after four decades, Bangladesh’s garment Moreover, the Vietnamese government assists the sector is still trapped in basic items. Still, almost 75 entrepreneurs of this country in different ways like percent of the shipments consist of T-shirts, trousers, food subsidy to the workers, social benefits, medical sweaters, formal shirts and jackets. benefits and housing assistance. The efficiency level There has been slow graduation towards value- of Vietnamese workers is higher than Bangladeshi added and high-end garment items for upscale workers because of the improved supply of gas and electricity, working environment and infrastructures.
BGMEA protests New York Times misleading report Desk Report
A report by Elizabeth Paton titled only RMG. As far as RMG goes, BGMEA is simply looking at the ‘After Factory Disaster, Bangladesh there won’t be any backsliding costs and negotiating with the Made Big Safety Strides. Are or compromise or amended agents offering the services. the Bad Days Coming Back?’ protocol which poses any risk for 5. The report cites the comment of published in the New York Times workers’ safety. Much has been Peter McAllister, the executive is misleading, and depicts a wrong achieved and it’s time to sustain director of the Ethical Trading image of Bangladesh textile and all that’s been achieved so far. Initiative and has always had the apparel industry. Already New 2. The new proposed BNBC best things right say about our York Times has updated that offers a slashing category. For process and BGMEA is sure that that report changing few points as RMG, BGMEA is sticking to its one line that suited its requirement per the Bangladesh Garment base. BGMEA is not going to was the only one to be printed. Manufacturers and Exporters be complying with any lesser Association (BGMEA) protests. 6. The accident mentioned at the standards. So, the headline outset of the report has nothing Bangladesh’s leading trade body makes little or no sense. to do with the boiler. It was a BGMEA condemned the report on 3. The report cites Rubana Huq, completely different explosion several points. President of Bangladesh of a cylinder of CNG that was 1. It mentioned that the Garment Manufacturers and in the factory and is often used Readymade Garments Exporters Association (BGMEA) for multiple purposes and users Sustainability Council (RSC) owns lingerie and sweater throughout Bangladesh. would be legally binding, but factories. Rather she owns shirts, 7. Also, Walmart has accepted actually, it is not. RSC will not sweaters and briefs factories. Accord’s safety standard and subscribe to any backsliding 4. Nirapon, with whom BGMEA has incorporated in its supplier that will impact the safety of now is having discussions, has guidelines issued in Dec 2019 the sector. Proposed building appointed 26 agents, with that any factory that is in good codes are for all sector, not differing costs and eligibility. standing with Accord will be ok.
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 23 Export update
Apparel export earning dips 5.53% in July-February of FY20 Staff Correspondent
According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, earnings from RMG (Ready- made Garments) export for July-February of FY 2019-20 is USD21.84 billion.
Export earnings from apparel items dipped 5.53% compared to the same period of FY 2018-19 July-February.
Earning from woven garments fell by 5.88% to $10.948 billion in July- February of FY20 from $11.633 billion in the same period of last Figure: Export earnings from apparel items dipped 5.53% compared to the same period fiscal year. On the other hand, of FY 2018-19 July-February. knitwear export fell by 5.17% to $10.898 billion from $11.493 billion. imports, production and shipment The export of the home textile hold back, cash flow crisis, and sector witnessed a steep decline The global pandemic Coronavirus slump in retail sales. of 7.47% – the sector exported and resulting disease Covid-19 USD 0.526 billion. played a significant role in the “The retail market is also not downtrend of apparel export. trending well. US clothing retail Other than apparel product the sales in January went down by 3.1 export earnings from Jute and jute Rubana Huq, President, percent, which is the worst in the last goods in July-February of FY20 Bangladesh Garment 10 years. Shopping malls in few big went up by 24.45% to $0.697 Manufacturers and Exporters cities have already started facing the billion from $0.560 billion in the Association (BGMEA) said, “It is effect of coronavirus,” Rubana said. same period of last fiscal year. extraordinarily alarming for the economy that the country’s export She termed the present time as Bangladeshi apparel industry was negative for six out of eight extremely challenging and said, leaders opined to have localization months of the current financial “There was no better time than now of material-components with a mid- year 2019-20.” to support the country’s readymade long-term focus in mind to tackle garment sector for its survival.” this type of global instability. “The challenges and weaknesses remain, and the sector has lost Apparel export performance for July-Feb. 2019-20 its competitive edge as the price continues to decline, a mandatory 25 annual increment of wages has 20 21.847 10.898 10.948 taken place, and our currency 15 Bn USD Bn USD Bn USD remains stronger compared to 10 0.526 other currencies against the US 5 Mn USD dollar,” Rubana added. 0 5.53% 5.17% 5.88% -5 7.47% On top of that, the price of electricity has gone up by -10 4.9 percent, said the BGMEA Produtcs RMG Knitwear Woven Germents Home Textile President, adding that coronavirus Export performance for July-Feb. 2019-20 (In Billion USD) outbreak was also predicted to % Change of export performance July-Feb. 2019-20 Over July-Feb. 2018-19 have a certain impact on the Figure: Export earnings from apparel items dipped 5.53% compared to the same period industry in terms of delay in of FY 2018-19 July-February.
24 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Smart Textiles Value Addition Smart textile: the new frontier in apparel sector Sabbir Rahman Khan
The apparel sector is undergoing billion in 2016, (US$$1.67 billion a fusion led by technology, in the US alone). According automation and interactive to industry insiders, the rapid manufacturing. While Artificial adoption of smart textile Intelligence (AI) is spiraling in the technology in the apparel and factory domain, consumers are fashion industries is set to give a looking for wearable those can serve US$130 billion boost to the apparel few attributes of their daily life. market by 2025. Say, for instance, we are looking There are myriad fronts of for a t-shirt that monitor can smart textiles. E-textile is the our heart, measure the chemical most happening term within composition of our body fluids. this domain. It is also spelled as And, here comes the concept smart clothing, smart garments, of Smart Textiles. Please do not electronic textiles, intelligent confuse it with the sci-fi costumes textiles, etc. The main catch of riveted with wires and zigzag smart textiles is - it is versatile circuits, it is simply a comfy attire and offers cutting-edge features with few technical features. to look at textiles and technology. It is a branch of technical textile, On a lighter note: the days for therefore, fabrics of smart textiles bullet-proof vests are going to an Figure: Soldiers' uniforms could soon use are developed and manufactured end and, now it’s time to embrace electrically conducting yarn woven directly to include technologies that technology-proof vests otherwise into the clothing, replacing cumbersome batteries and cabling. provide the wearer with a flavor spelled as Smart Textile. of increased functionality and in Europe and North America. Smart textiles are defined as interactive usage. So, it is much The main market players are textiles that can sense and react anticipated that smart textiles may Textronics, Peratech, DuPont, via an active control mechanism spearhead revolutionary change Clothing+, Outlast, etc. North to environmental conditions or since it can do many things America is the largest supplier of stimuli from mechanical, thermal, that traditional fabrics cannot, Smart Textile. The second place is chemical, electrical or magnetic including communicate, transform, Europe; following North America sources. The majority of the conduct energy and even grow. smart textile applications being with the production market share Theoretically, smart textiles can concentrated in 4 main fields: of 30.5% and the sales market be classified into two categories. protection & defense, sports & share over 30%. Asia (e.g., China) One is aesthetic and another is fitness, industrial and technical is another important market performance-enhancing. Aesthetic applications (transportation, of Smart Textile, enjoying a 5% examples entail everything architecture) and medical & production market share and 14% from fabrics, say, for instance, healthcare (European Union, 2019). sales market share (Global Smart the chromatic appearance of a Moreover, smart textiles provide Textile Market Report, 2019). wearable meaning change of a convenient means of gathering It is very evident that significant original color. Additionally, some data about consumers which, strides have been made fabrics can gather energy from in turn, can provide brands and in the mainstreaming and the environment by harnessing retailers with invaluable insight commercialization of wearable vibrations, sound or heat. into the lifestyles of consumers technologies such as fitness and how products are used after trackers and smart watches, and On the other hand, performance- the point of sale. such developments prompted enhancing smart textiles is much evident in the domains of the Currently, there are many innovation in smart textiles and athletic, extreme sports sector and producing companies in the world clothing. The world market for military industries. One cutting- Smart Textile industry, especially smart textiles stood at US$2.75
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 25 Smart Textiles Value Addition
edge feature within performance- enhancing smart textiles is - it Smart Textile Applications is possible to maintain constant body temperature using phase- Sports & Fitness Medical & change technology. Healthcare Smart textiles also widely used as protective clothing to guard Protection & Industrial & against extreme environmental Defense Technical hazards like radiation and the Applications effects of space travel. In this connection, the health and beauty industry is reportedly taking and, over time, in applications textiles must be comfortable, their advantage of these innovations. such as transportation, etc. technology must be unobtrusive, they must withstand a difficult Furthermore, smart clothing • Over the forecast period, and variable environment and, serves an important role in increasing opportunities will particularly for medical and remote monitoring of chronically exist for active smart materials emergency applications, they must ill patients or those undergoing containing low-power sensors, be reliable. rehabilitation since it promotes the electronics, and energy sources concept of preventative healthcare. and energy harvesting capability Ensuring these requires sufficient Moreover, smart textiles are also research is said to be the major • E-textiles with power and data used for fashion purposes. shortcoming till now and it distribution capabilities will must be overcome to realize the Technology(s) involved in smart emerge and find opportunities in considerable benefits and lucrative textiles: such areas as military uniforms market potential of smart textiles Various technological domains are • There will be increasing and intelligent fabrics (STIF). In commonly used in smart textiles. opportunities to implement reality, smart fabrics need to be Common and important ones are advanced materials (such as more than ‘cool technology’ and given below:
Fiber optics Phase change Nanotechnologies Thermochromic Organic or plastic materials for fiber and fabric materials electronics coating Conductive fibers Quantum tunneling Biomaterials Piezoelectric Light-emitting and yarns – metals, composites for resistance polymers & diodes wires & conductive switching devices polymers Photovoltaic and Photoluminescence Plasma Photochromic Holography solar cells technologies materials Shape memory Radiofrequency Global positioning Microelectronic Microencapsulation for alloys and polymers identification and wireless mechanical therapy delivery (RFID) tags communications systems (MEMS)
Key takeaways and carbon nanotubes or embedded have to be prepared for fulfilling recommendations optical fibers), and fibers that cutting edge needs and provide a provide an energy source • Smart textiles are finding smart solution. expanding opportunities in key • It is recommended that However, some technical issues application segments, such as smart textile developers or have yet to be addressed. Key personal protective clothing, providers focus on making the challenges facing the industry military & defense, fashion and manufacture of textiles and include the complexity of entertainment, healthcare, and so on electronics more compatible manufacturing smart textile and • Key growth markets for smart • Smart textile developers can clothing products and the need textiles include sports & also benefit from creatively for small and extremely efficient fitness, healthcare as well as focusing on addressing a market power sources. The successful military/defense. There are also need, rather than developing commercialization of smart opportunities for smart textiles in technology in search of an textiles demands to enable the such areas as personal protective application. textile infrastructure and electrical components to work together, and equipment for first responders, It is worth remembering that smart establishing appropriate standards.
26 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 InverseASUDEL process on continuous Application for wash down e ects
Possibility of dyeing extremely deep shades. Wide range of colours. No tailing problems neither different affinity of the dyestuffs on combinations. Dyestuffs are easily combinable among them. Washing off effect and washing fastness increased. Friendly process for shading in order to adjust final shades when necessary. If there is any issue on final shade, it is easily stripped off. Machinery remains very clean when compared with pigments.
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www.asutex.es Cover Plus New electricity tariff to eat up RMG sector’s competitiveness in global market
Textile Today Analysis
The new electricity tariff rate will unit by Tk37800, which now pays of electricity prices. badly hit the country’s export-oriented TK4.5 lakh per month. apparel sector, the $34 billion industry “Since our production costs have and lifeline of economy, by eating The new rate would rub salt on gone up by almost 29.40% in up the competitiveness in the global the wound of the manufacturers, the last 4 years and products export markets. who are going through a tough prices have steadily gone down, time to rise in production cost there’s no way we can afford any Bangladesh Energy Regulatory caused by the rise in gas and increase of any sort of price hike Commission (BERC) once again electricity prices as well as the of electricity,” BGMEA President has increased the prices of implementation of the new Rubana Huq told Textile Today. electricity for retail by 5.3% to wage structure, said Hatem, also TK7.13 per unit and bulk consumers Managing Director of MB Knit Limited. This will not be beneficial for the by 8.4% to Tk5.17 a unit. The new industry, she added. rate has been made effective from What expert says Keeping prices reasonable for biz March, 1, 2020. “Bangladeshi apparel people When the supply chain of manufacturers enjoy better Experts as well as the business Bangladesh’s textile and competitiveness due to lower people call for increasing readymade garments (RMG) electricity prices. It will be great efficiency of power generation sector is taking a hit as its main pressure on the business people companies and to stop corruption. sourcing destination, China, is the as the production cost went up erasing the competitive edge to epicenter of the recent coronavirus The stock of gas is indeed reducing the global markets,” said AB Mirza outbreak. Prices of all garment but still, 50% power generation is Azizul Islam, an economist to accessories, including yarn and from the gas. So why should we Textile Today. sewing threads, have already gone up. hike electricity tariff, when we are importing at a lower rate from India, Also, worldwide apparel brands It would be difficult to absorb the questioned Ahsan H Mansur. are shutting down their stores and new cost, when the profit, as well as the business, is in a declining halting their productions those The government needs to increase trend, he added. leading work order cancellation electricity tariff to cut subsidies with Bangladesh apparel maker. Manufacturers unable to bear or losses but this should be in phases and give a plan with rate The apparel sector also fears the production cost how much it will enhance in every sharp rise in production cost, Talking on the issue, Bangladesh year, while the quality supply of which will leave the exporters in Garment Manufacturers and electricity should be ensured, tougher competition in the global Exporters Association (BGMEA) Dhaka Chamber of Commerce and export markets to its competitors. President opined that the sector Industry (DCCI) president Shams “With the existing prices, the cannot bear the load of further rise Mahmud said. sector is struggling to survive and to retain the competitiveness in Steps to make power sector more industry friendly the global markets,” Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) First Vice President Mohammad Hatem told Textile Today. Long time planning – so the Increasing Government should According to him, if the 8.4% business people can devise eciency of power curb corruption in business plans accordingly generation the sector increased rate is implemented; it will increase the cost of a single
28 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Traditional Textiles Woolen ‘shawl’ and hilly people’s livelihood
Shafiun Nahar Elma
Introduction
Bangladesh is a developing country where a large number of people live under the poverty line and most of them earn their livelihood working in various manufacturing companies. The garments sector is very broad here as a vast amount of people from different areas are connected to this sector somehow.
History of Bangladesh clothing industry
The study of the history of clothing and textiles traces the development, use, and availability Figure 1: Kashmir shawls are highly prized for their fine wool, skilled weaving and of clothing and textiles over embroidery, and soft texture. human history. Clothing and textiles reflect the materials and There is a significant effect of History of ‘shawl’ and ‘pashmina’ technologies available in different globalization on international The words ‘shawl’ and ‘pashmina’ civilizations at different times. The textile and apparel trade. come from Kashmir, but variety and distribution of clothing Today, the developed countries originate from Hamedan, Iran. and textiles within a society reveal are hugely dependent on the Sources report cashmere crafts social customs and culture. developing nations for textile and garment manufacturing. At were introduced by Sayeed Ali The wearing of clothing is present, Bangladesh ranks second Hamadani, when the 14th century exclusively a human characteristic in the world as the largest apparel came to Ladakh, homeland of and is a feature of most human producer with a $34 billion business. pashmina goats, where, for the societies, though it is not first time in history, he found known exactly when various There are three fundamental that the Ladakhi Kashmiri goats peoples began wearing clothes. factors which have boosted the produced soft wool. Anthropologists believe that growth of textile in Bangladesh. He took some of this goat wool animal skins and vegetation The country has plenty of and made socks which he gave were adapted into coverings natural and human resources, as a gift to the king of Kashmir, as protection from cold, heat opportunities, and beneficial Sultan Qutabdin. and rain, especially as humans government policies. In Bangladesh, a large number of migrated to new climates. Afterwards, Hamadani suggested labor workers can be found. to the king that they started The textile industry of Bangladesh a shawl weaving industry in is more than 500 years old. It is one Also, the prices of natural gas Kashmir using this wool. That is of the oldest and most successful and the cost of energy are cheap. how pashmina shawls began. The industries with its rich history. With a huge population, labor is United Nations agency UNESCO Moreover, in recent years there has abundant, and Bangladesh has an reported in 2014 that Ali Hamadani been a substantial development in advantage in producing labor- was one of the principal historical yarn and fabric production. intensive products.
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 29 Traditional Textile
figures who shaped the culture of Kashmir, both architecturally and through the flourishing of arts and crafts, and hence the economy, in Kashmir. The skills and knowledge that he brought to Kashmir gave rise to an entire industry.
Kim didi- a struggling woman
Here is the story of ‘Kim didi’ who lives in Bogalake para, Ruma; Bandarban with her family. They are a small family of three members includes her husband ‘Pui Bom’, she and her little daughter Lily. They also have three dogs. In Bogalake most of the native people have Figure 2: The shawl weaving gave birth to an industry in Kashmir. Courtesy: Priyanka cottage businesses for tourists, Parashar/Mint. Courtesy: Priyanka Parashar/Mint which is their main livelihood, but few families cannot afford this use of heavier machinery, it allows habitats known as ‘Para’. business. these people to practice this labor some craft and earn a necessary The Chittagong Hill Tracts (CHT) They make ‘Shawl’ for their livelihood out of it by selling these communities suffer from many livelihood. They prepare ‘Shawl’ traditional clothing to the tourists deprivations due to challenges from wool (one kind of yarn). They that gather here every year. posed by its unique demography, buy these different colors of wool socio-economic situations from Ruma Bazar, 15 km far from 1.6 million people are living in the and diversities in culture and their place. Ruma Bazar is their hill tracts. The region covers 10% of customs. There is also not enough local market. They use motorbike Bangladesh’s land area but accounts infrastructure, human resources or jeep in the risky hilly roads. for only 1% of the population. and integration of CHT context in development planning, which all limit The ‘Shawls’ look very simple About half of the population are effective coverage of basic services. in design because it is fully from 13 small ethnic groups. These handmade. It takes a minimum of religious and ethnic minorities If the government takes care of two days for a ‘Shawl’ to make and have been living in hill tracts for these matters, people of CHT will sells it only 400 takas each. They many generations. The other half, get a bright future having proper use a couple of bamboo sticks about 53%, are Bengalees. Most basic needs and livelihood earnings. for making structures to sew the of the people live in scattered ‘Shawl’; for a different design, they change the bamboo arrangement. Normally they do not have electricity available and so they mostly work in daylight.
They want their children to be higher educated but it is quite impossible because schools are minimum 40-50 km away from their home and the hilly roads are very risky and deadly. As a result, their children are grown up without proper education.
Life in remote and rural areas such as Bogalake para is hard and struggling. Woolen ‘Shawls’ and few other items of clothing such Figure 3: The people of Bandarban earn their livelihood through weaving woolen ‘Shawls’ as ‘Taat’ can be made without the and few other items of clothing such as ‘Taat’.
30 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03
Export Diversification Artificial turf can be a new business prospect
Rafiul Islam
Artificial Turf is a synthetic grassland that looks like natural grass. It is used in stadiums for sports that are usually played on grass. However, it is now being used for residential and commercial purposes. The main reason for the use of artificial turf is its durability. Domed or partially covered stadiums may require artificial turf because the grass does not get enough sunlight to stay fresh.
The artificial turf first gained popularity 54 years ago in 1996, when it was installed on the unpopular-year- old astrodome. The product used at the time was ‘Chemgrass’, developed by Monsanto, which is now re-branded as Astro Turf.
In that decade, first-generation turf systems were replaced by second and third generation turf systems. Second-generation synthetic turf systems Island, in 1964. After the Astro Turf was installed feature long fibers, and third-generation systems, at the Astrodome in Houston, Texas, the material now widely used, provide refills that are a mix of became popular with the public in 1966. recyclable rubber sand and grains. In the state's industrial stadium, it initially tried to use Artificial turf offers numerous benefits over natural natural grass, but it failed and the field conditions grass. Artificial turf costs much less maintenance were severely inadequate in the second half of the than natural grass. As a result, other benefits, such season, the dead grass painted green. The infield as versatility, readiness, and weather utilities, lead to was installed just before the Houston Astros home more artificial turf adoption. opener on April 7 due to a limited supply of artificial grass. The outfield was set up during an extended These turfs have a less environmental impact Astro Road trip in early summer and first used after because they are recyclable, require less water, and the All-Star break in July. reduce fertilizer and pesticide use, resulting in the growing application of artificial turfs across rooms, By the end of the decade, the use of Astro Turf and homes, golf courses, businesses and public spaces. similar surfaces in the United States and Canada was widespread, with both indoor and outdoor stadiums Growing urbanization is another major factor used for baseball and soccer. According to the that helps the artificial turf market positively. This Synthetic Turf Council, more than 5.6 artificial turf factor is especially evident in developing countries, playing fields were set up in the United States on where artificial turf is increasingly being used for May 25. landscaping. Artificial turf was first used in Major League Baseball History at the Houston Astrodome in 1966. David Chaney joined the North Carolina State Uses of artificial turf University College of Textiles as the dean of the North Carolina State University of Raleigh, leading Growing urbanization is another major factor the research team at Triangle Park, the first research that helps the artificial turf market positively. This artificial turf maker. factor is especially evident in developing countries where artificial turf is increasingly being used for The artificial turf was first installed at the Moses landscaping. Dead stadiums have two main reasons Brown School Playground in Providence, Rhode
32 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Export Diversification
for the artificial turf market Market size growth. For example, $8.5 bn new artificial turf was predicted to reach by 2026 installed at US Bank Stadium on May 25, which was purchased for 10.5% CAGR $1.6 million. between 2019 and 2026 Similarly, Boise State University's In August 2019, Labosport (France) has acquired Athletic Stadium, a new blue artificial turf, was set up TGMS Ltd (UK) a sports surface consultancy that on May 25 and cost US$5-1 million. is into the design and management of artificial turf and natural sports pitches in the UK. The acquisition It is also used in several sectors like: will help the company to increase sales in the UK as 1. Baseball stadium TGMS Ltd is one of the major competitors in artificial 2. Football stadium turf in the UK. 3. Hockey stadium In August 2019, AstroTurf Corporation (U.S.) acquired 4. Tennis court Nagle Athletic Surfaces, Inc., (U.S.) specialized in 5. Golf grounds track and outdoor court installation. The acquisition 6. Landscaping will help the company to increase its market share 7. Airport etc. as Nagle Athletic Surfaces, Inc. is providing a wide range of products. Global market
Europe is the largest production of Artificial Grass Some global organizations who provides artificial Turf, with a production value market share nearly turf are Ten Cate, Shaw Sports Turf, FieldTurf 33.09% in 2016. (Tarkett), CoCreation Grass, Polytan GmbH, Domo Sports Grass, ACT Global Sports, SIS Pitches, The artificial turf market was US$ 3.5 billion in 2019, Limonta Sport, Edel Grass B.V., Unisport-Saltex Oy, and it will reach $8.5 billion in 2026 at a CAGR GreenVision / Mattex, Mondo S.p.A., Juta, Condor by 10.5% between 2019 and 2026, according to Grass, Nurteks, Taishan, Victoria PLC, ForestGrass, ResearchAndMarkets.com. Forbex, etc.
In recent years, artificial turfs have been applied Bangladesh producing artificial turf across the surfaces of sports stadiums and commercial playgrounds. To see the promising future of the products many Bangladeshi entrepreneurs are producing artificial These turfs have a less environmental impact turf. Some Bangladeshi companies are producing because they are recyclable, require less water, and artificial turf along with other products especially reduce fertilizer and pesticide use, resulting in the garments. Some of the companies that are producing growing application of artificial turfs across rooms, these turfs are: homes, golf courses, businesses and public spaces. 1. Trade edge Growth in the number of sports events across the 2. Shelter A.G. world and stadiums switching to artificial turfs are 3. Resha International two prominent factors complimenting the artificial 4. AN Leather Ltd turf market growth. For instance, US Bank Stadium installed a new artificial turf in 2019. These Bangladeshi companies are exporting artificial turf to many regions worldwide including North Reports suggest that the current turf was purchased America, Eastern Europe, South America, Oceania, for US$1.5 million. Similarly, Boise State University's Central America, Western Europe, Middle East, etc. athletic stadium installed a new blue artificial turf at Bangladesh has huge scope to expand its prospect in the stadium in 2019. The installation cost was almost this business. When many industry experts are urging US$600,000 to $1 million. to diversify Bangladesh’s export products, artificial turf can be a good business prospect here in this regard.
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 33 Exclusive Interview
We are building “Bangladesh together BTT Interview
Shams Mahmud is the Managing distinction of becoming the Dhaka Chamber of Commerce Director of Shasha Denims Ltd. youngest diplomat in Bangladesh and Industry (DCCI), the impact He has introduced innovative at the age of 34 when he was of Coronavirus outbreak, Foreign production management, appointed as the Honorary Direct Investment, etc.
incentive systems and marketing Consul of FDR Ethiopia to Textile Today: As the President of approaches for the company. Bangladesh. the Dhaka Chamber of Commerce Besides this, he has previously and Industry (DCCI) what is Recently Mahmud has been served as Director in Dutch your goal? In what policies appointed President of the Bangla Chamber of Commerce do you want to help with the Dhaka Chamber of Commerce government, which will be helpful and Industry (DBCCI) Bangladesh and Industry (DCCI), the largest for the other businesses in the Textile Mills Association (BTMA) private-sector chamber in long run? and was Vice President of Bangladesh with over 4000 Shams Mahmud: DCCI is the Bangladesh Philippines Chamber members, for 2020. largest chamber in Bangladesh of Commerce and Industry with 4000 active members and (BPCCI). Mahmud is also a In a conversation with Textile 16000 passive members. This Capstone Fellow of the National Today, Shams Mahmud shared chamber also is spread across Defence College and holds the his goal as a President of the 32 sectors. Dhaka Chamber is
34 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Exclusive Interview
the voice of small and medium will help banks to inject more funds fiscal relief packages for all export- businesses. The Chamber has into the private sector. oriented sectors and also at the played a crucial part in the same time to businesses who Textile Today: Tell something development of the private sector import goods to Bangladesh. about the impact of Coronavirus. and we have always been the voice In the long run, I believe Bangladesh of the private sector in Bangladesh. Shams Mahmud: Bangladesh's has an advantage here compared export basket is heavily reliant DCCI is always vocal and gives to other competitive RMG on RMG and textiles. Right now, suggestions to the government and manufacturing countries like Vietnam, we have reached a critical stage pursues the government in the areas Cambodia. Bangladesh has a strong today. Because of Coronavirus, where the private sector business backward linkage. Our competing we are seeing our major export community sees scope for the countries do not have textile and markets like the European Union, government to do more to help create apparel backward linkage industries, UK, USA going into lockdown, a booming business environment. they are 90% or more than reliant on where mobility of people is being China for raw materials. In a way, DCCI is the other hand restricted through quarantine etc. of the government for the private As a safety measure stores are On the other hand, our strong sector where inputs are taken for being shut down and business and backward linkage industry will help budgetary, economic, taxation, RMG manufacturers to keep the business diplomacy policies, etc. wheel of garments export running. along with the new avenues like Textile Today: In the current the blue economy, infrastructure DCCI is always scenario of the critical banking bonds, etc. vocal and gives sector and other trade barriers We have seen in last year the suggestions to in the country, do you think private sector showed constriction new investments or FDI's will with below 9% growth. Public the government be encouraged? And from your sector borrowing increased many and pursues the vantage position what are your folds on the other hand. And government in vision and steps to move forward? whenever the business community Shams Mahmud: We are working put forward the issue of bringing the areas where closely with the Bangladesh more FDI, the infrastructure the private Investment Development development issue stood as a sector business Authority and other related trade barrier. It is like a double-edged bodies to remove trade barriers sword; we want infrastructure community sees and welcome more and more FDI. development first or FDI? scope for the Everyone is positive and everyone The govt. has taken steps to government to do wants the best in the country. develop infrastructure for which more to help create As for the barriers, two things we witness a squeeze in the a booming business hinder FDI most. Number one is private sector. But private- high taxation and the absence of sector growth is a must for the environment. long-term policies for electricity country to grow. That is why this prices. The government should year DCCI has given a proposal have a long-term policy to where the government will increase energy prices. So, the create a mechanism to launch economic activities are coming investors can come and invest in infrastructure bonds in the to a grinding stop. This means the long-term vision and plan. market to get funds to implement the major export markets of infrastructure projects. Private Bangladesh overnight are going As for the new investors, most of companies can buy these bonds through a period of turmoil. This our investors follow a typical path. and be a part of the country’s will also lead people to have less Suppose if one manufacturer goes development. Here it will give disposable income. As a result, for a green factory then others a win-win situation for both RMG, textiles, shoes, leather, frozen also follow and start making green parties. The government will get food, flower, vegetable export factories without understanding the necessary fund from – like sectors will be badly affected. the whole system. Our investors US$ 1 to 10 billion. Then in return, should come out of this mindset. I We hope the situation will be the private companies will get a would recommend, before starting bought under control within 6 corporate tax waiver as per the any investment, a businessman months and things will get back invested amount. If we can make should first go to the Commerce to normal. The Government of this model project successful, the Ministry for the HS code and other Bangladesh, especially Bangladesh infrastructure development funding related data to see which sector is Bank has to provide monetary and will not be an issue anymore which performing well and which sector
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 35 Exclusive Interview
is better to do the investment. Shams Mahmud: We see everyone cotton blend fibers. The industry Also, they can go to any freight involved with Shasha Denims Ltd as a whole is looking at the forwarders to see which factories as one big family working towards synthetic fiber sector. How do you are delivering on time, export a common goal. We believe that evaluate this? amount, destinations to get the every individual from the work Shams Mahmud: Everyone has exact figure and get a true picture they do has an important role in their philosophy for making certain of the scenario for investment. this journey. Everyone in Shasha kinds of products. At the end of the has a sense of ownership in the Another obstacle is that most day, everybody has to develop research company. We have encouraged of the investors are doing the and development, new products to people to share their thoughts and same type of products or in the get a better advantage in the global always come up with innovative same type of categories. This kills apparel market. The synthetic fiber and best practice solutions. We the price margin and ultimately sector is almost non-existent in encourage a linear management destroys an industry. This practice Bangladesh at the moment. FDI should style where everyone is answerable is not sustainable at all. be encouraged in this sector. and accountable. We should have a policy where Manufacturers need to come We encourage people to develop FDI, in new sectors, should be out of the copy-paste mentality themselves professionally and welcomed with open arms. There and invest heavily in R&D and be abreast of the latest industry should be a transfer of technology the design team plays a crucial news, trends, technology. If anyone and also knowledge. role. Keeping the SDG goals in wants to do any courses in abroad, mind and making progress aligning Textile Today: We know your Shasha encourages this and we with the goals is vital for the factory Shasha Denims Ltd. When bear the financial expenses for it. world. Adopting new technologies other factories are providing denim to minimize the usage of water with $2 or less, you are giving consumption and energy should also the U.S. 2.6 dollars price tag per be part of the company philosophy. denim. Give your suggestion for Manufacturers other denim factories. need to come Textile Today: We have made a study where it shows that if a Shams Mahmud: Everything has out of the copy- denim factory increases 7-8% a cost. Cost of Research and paste mentality annual efficiency of workers Development (R&D) for product then it can earn 35 to 36 crores development, management, workers, and invest heavily more annually. What is your etc. I should include the costs of in R&D and the view regarding human capital these things. Once a manufacturer design team plays transformation to increase reduces the price, then he cannot workers' efficiency? increase the prices in the future. a crucial role. We have to be very rigid on certain Shams Mahmud: It has been things to keep the company healthy. almost 20 years for Shasha Denims We want everyone to also grow. I have faith in my company and that Ltd and we have 98% efficiency. the products we are coming up with One particular aspect of the One of the reasons behind that is commands the premium. industry in Bangladesh which we share our profit every month. disturbs me and whereas a Annually we share 5% profit with Right now, the main competition businessman I feel we have failed the workers from top to bottom. in terms of business Shasha is that we have not invested We are the only textile mill in Denims faces are from mills in enough to help people grow Bangladesh to do so. Besides Turkey, Spain and Italy. We have professionally. That is the reason this, we also provide 4 bonuses invested heavily in research and we make it a point in Shasha that annually. We all need to work for development, and slowly but people need to keep learning. I human capital transformation to surely it's beginning to pay off. feel proud when these people increase efficiency. At the end of One has to decide if he wants to come up with new solutions and the day, we are one family and it be a big fish in a small pond or a innovations with their newly is because of the hard work and small fish in a big pond at the end acquired knowledge. This creates dedication of everyone in Shasha, of the day. a symbiotic relationship between we are what we are today and Shasha and its family members. have reached new milestones and Textile Today: How do you deal are contributing to the beautiful with your workers as they become Textile Today: The textile and story of Made in Bangladesh. At motivated and committed to apparel industry of Bangladesh the end of the day, Bangladesh is contributing more? mostly works with cotton and building Bangladesh.
36 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Exclusive Silicones ! Ultimate Everytime ULTRASIL-GSX
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Among all the diversified garment overtook China in denim supply established 32 mills where they products in Bangladesh in recent to the EU countries because of invested more than $1billion in years, denim emerged as a quality products at competitive the country so far. The millers foremost potential item for the prices. have been meeting more than country. Nowadays, Bangladeshi 40 percent demand for fabrics denim is the much-talked-about Also, to the US, Bangladesh from the garment makers. The items worldwide, especially in exports nearly $400million worth remaining demand is met through European countries. of denim in a year registering import mainly from China, India, nearly 15 percent market share Turkey and Pakistan. Not only the highest supplier to while China’s share is 24 percent the EU, but Bangladesh is also and Mexico’s share is 20 percent. If we analyze the trend of the third-largest denim supplier establishing denim mills, we can to the US in a year. Bangladesh It will not be an exaggeration if we see most of the modern mills exports nearly $1billion worth of say Bangladesh’s next business is were set up over the last 10 years denim products to the European denim because the demand for with higher production capacity. countries in a year. this specialized kind of clothing Previously denim products were item is on the rise worldwide due not so much known items to the Bangladesh matters in world to changes in fashion and style local textile millers and garment denim markets both by the males and females. makers. As a result, mainly Turkey, India, Pakistan and China were In Europe, one in every three With the huge demand from the leaders in the global denim persons wears the Bangladeshi global retailers and brands, the markets. denim items. Even, Bangladesh local entrepreneurs have also Bangladesh is relatively a new entrant in the global denim markets, which is currently nearly $60 billion. However, until now the share of Bangladesh in the global denim market is very low at $3 billion in a year.
But the prospect is very high for Bangladesh as the globally renowned retailers and brands are flocking in Bangladesh for the quality denim products at competitive prices. Bangladeshi garment makers are expecting that the total denim export will reach $7 billion by the end of 2021 for the higher demand for the products.
Globally renowned retailers and brands like H&M, C&A, JC Penney, Best Seller, Tesco, Zara, Li & Fung, Figure 1: Denim emerged as a foremost potential export item in Bangladesh.
38 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Denim Today
Top supplier of denim in Europe $3 bn share of Bangladesh in global denim market 40% of denim fabric is supplied by Bangladeshi fabric Globally manufacturers renowned retailers and brands source denim $1 bn garment Bangladeshi denim $400 mn items from manufacturers have annually Bangladesh Bangladesh invested in recent years exports of denim to USA
Figure 2: Bangladesh denim industry scenario.
K-Mart Australia, K-Mart USA, top-notch digital technologies of the denim manufacturing business. Takko, G-Star, Inditex, Only & different companies could reduce The reasons are ever-changing Sons, Only, Pull & Bear, Barmoda, not only water consumption but style and fashion and for the Nosiy May, LPP and New Look also reduce the time significantly. growing demand for the denim source denim garment items from garment worldwide. Bangladesh. Number of denim users is on the rise worldwide Let us talk about fashion first. Use of modern technologies for The fashion trend analysts are washing denim fabrics With the rising use of denim, the saying denim has become the demand for the product is also main garment for both men and The high-water consumption increasing worldwide. Almost 70 women due to its wider range by denim manufacturing is a percent of the population in the of usability. Although the denim major concern for Bangladesh. US wear denim products regularly. garment was not so much adorned Previously, more than 270 liters An average consumer owns seven item even 50 years ago. Now it of water was needed to make a denim products at any given time. turned the most favored item to kilogram (kg) of denim fabrics. the people. The denim garment In the UK each consumer owns Due to focus re-shift towards can be used both as formal and an average of 17 denim garments. sustainability Bangladeshi denim casual dresses. Nowadays from Annually 2.1 billion pieces of denim fabric makers dramatically reduced wearable garments denim has are sold globally. The denim sector water consumption over the last diversified into many things like will grow by 15 percent year-on- few years with the adoption of the quilts, pillow, cover bed sheets and year until 2020. It is also predicted latest technologies in production, even showpieces are also made that the size of the global denim opined a leading machine supplier from denim fabrics. So, the uses of market will reach $64.1billion by and producer recently. denim products widened in human the end of 2021. life. As for the design segment, it is The majority of the denim fabrics never-ending. producing companies could As mentioned above, Bangladeshi entrepreneurs supply denim reduce more than 50 percent The China factor of water consumption by using to major global retailers and the latest technologies, said brands. So, an increase in both China is the largest supplier the industry people. And the trendy fashion and multi-cultural of clothing items worldwide. target is to the reduce of water designs are suggesting for more However, the country is losing its consumption by 80 percent in the denim business for Bangladeshi market share to other players like denim making process. entrepreneurs. Bangladesh, Vietnam, Cambodia, Pakistan and India. Basically, China Why Bangladesh should focus on Now some of the world's leading has been leaving the garment the denim factories in Bangladesh can wash a business for two reasons including kg of denim fabrics with only 15 to Mainly for two significant reasons the country is shifting to the high- 16 liters of water on average. The Bangladesh should go all-out in end garment items and a dearth
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 39 Denim Today
Growing China has been leaving demand for the garment business and denim garment buyers are shifting worldwide towards other countries
Bangladesh denim manufacturers developed $64.1 own design studios to billion, global add value-addition denim market
Figure 3: Why Bangladesh should focus on the denim more. of skilled workers as the cost of increases in the use of electronic were in wait and see mood due to production has gone very high gadgets like smart mobile and the election. in China. So, most of the work other appliances. So, western orders are shifting to Bangladesh consumers reduced spending on The Brexit has also impacted and Vietnam and to some extent clothing items and the impact of negatively the export of apparel to Myanmar a new entrant to the such changes in consumer behavior items to the UK the third apparel trade. has been felt by Bangladeshi largest export destination of manufacturers. If there is a market Bangladesh. Despite some internal The flip sides and externalities, the future of Bangladeshi denim is bright. There is no doubt that Bangladesh Bangladeshi denim manufacturers has a lot of work orders for denim Annually 2.1 billion can grab more market share now. products. However, the country pieces of denim are This is the high-time to grab more should also do some home works denim business shares. for grabbing more market share. sold globally. The denim sector will Sayeed Ahmad Chowdhury, First of all, the Bangladesh grow by 15 percent General Manager (Operations) government should ensure an of Square Denims, said the adequate supply of gas and power year-on-year until investment in the denim industry to the industrial units improving 2020. It is also will continue as the demand from the infrastructures and the predicted that the the international buyers has been capacity of the country’s premier increasing. For instance, currently, Chattogram port. size of the global a lot of work orders from China have been coming to Bangladesh Both the businessmen and the denim market will because of the China-US trade war. government high-up’s should reach $64.1billion improve the diplomatic relationship by the end of 2021. It is expected that by 2021, nearly with the major markets like the 50 percent of denim work orders US and the EU so that the trade will come to Bangladesh from privileges that the country has been China because of the trade war enjoying remains intact. trend analysis the manufacturers can and for the high cost of production take well-thought-out decisions in in China, Sayeed Ahmad said. The government and businessmen their business. must keep a constant eye in the The sale of denim to the EU from market dynamics in fashions and Similarly, the election in major Bangladesh slowed down to a bit demand so that they can replenish EU countries including The because of the silent recession the changes according to the Netherlands, Germany and France in the EU nations. However, the market dynamics. has impacted negatively on the buyers are not paying proper export of Bangladeshi products prices to the manufacturers. We In 2015 the demand for clothing to the EU as the consumers and need to emphasize to enhance our items worldwide declined by businessmen in those countries negotiation skills, Ahmad added. more than 7 percent because of
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“We should plan smartly to face the pandemic coronavirus”
Cotton and yarn update: Yarn price may go down by 15-20 cents per kg in next month
Future of retail- Paradigm shift in RMG Business www.aprayon.com asiapacificrayon Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) Factory Tales Future of retail- Paradigm shift in RMG business
Engr. Anisul Hoque Ansari
Maintaining a Continuous lean situation in RMG orders and regular shut down of RMG Industries became the talk of the town. Also, factories are facing a severe cost-benefit crisis while wages and utility costs are increased in many folds. In one word, everybody is focusing on immediate efficiency improvements in factories.
Eventually, entrepreneurs are looking forward to several tech adoptions in MIS control, manufacturing control and machines. Consequently, we vastly are talking about sustainability, productivity waste minimization, etc but getting no big changes in negative financial statements. The root cause is not the inefficiency of operational processes, rather it is the transformation of business model due to the disruptive changes happening in retail business.
What is disruptive changes in Retail fashion market Figure: A little smart move towards the rapid change in the retail and Why can’t we avoid it:Other than prominent business may lead to the number one manufacturing hub for the existing brands, new brands have been entering into apparel business. the market with a new trend called online retailing since 5-6 years and disruptively this trend became chain and manufacturing processes of existing no. 1 choice for the end customers. brands leaving them far behind in fashion trends, innovation, information and technology . For These e-commerce platforms could reach the end example- customers in a massive way by adopting Artificial intelligence and Augmented realities in their platform Impact to the existing fashion brands: Existing to search, sort and offer fashion trends required by prominent brands are dependent on their store the customers. business where customer has to visit physically and choose their product from available stock. Brands do Thus the market research became easy globally to their survey and demand planning according to sales understand demand trends of fashion by community and physical marketing which is much slower than across the globe. The online players were able to the new trend. reach to the end customer precisely according to their demands in the fastest possible way. Their Eventually many of them lost their business share business trend were following pull rather than to the new brands/retailers within a short time. modified push marketing (Previous model). And they had to close thousands of stores, shrink business, destroy stock garments, etc. 81 brands Finally, it created a massive impact in entire supply became bankrupt in the last 5 years and many other
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 45 www.aprayon.com asiapacificrayon Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) Sections under Factory Tales March 2020
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Tareq Amin March 2020 Unveiling industry best practices Knitting & knitwear March 2020 Founder & CEO A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 03 l Pages 43 to 94 www.factorytalesbd.com A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 03 l Pages 61 to 78
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brands closed a good number of stores. To survive the existing millions of garments in pipelines, fast fashions became rigid with quality and This impact is felt most in BD because BD does it is also imposing additional pressure to the factories fast fashion brands and they produce based on who were not used to with such tight quality projections and implant stock garments analysis requirements from fast fashions. which comes from the forecasts made by the physical stores. Other than adapting the retail changes, suppliers mostly jumped into improving efficiency by So, nowadays every fashion brand are transforming adapting high tech machines, data automation in business to online marketing and selling, virtual manufacturing, etc. which will really not help anyway. designing and even rental business in some cases too. Road map for BD RMG to adopt and survive with Impact to supply chain and manufacturing hub: positive growth: Despite of many arguments and Consequently, a couple of changes became a priority analysis on the action roadmaps, couple of strategy to the entire supply chain processes. Few of them can be considered based on the demand from supply are- chain process as mentioned above. Let us try to co-relate and find a way to satisfy each need from 1. Adaptability to change fashion faster and flexibility above three: to produce multiple product ranges Adaptability to change fashion faster and flexibility 2. Ability to deliver 2/3 times fastest than before to produce multiple product ranges: There is not many privileges of getting different lead time for fast 3. Consistent quality to comply with the market fashion/low volume high-end products. We are in an competition Era where Speed is the first thing to adopt. Thus, we Impact on the manufacturing factories in BD: As need couple of adjustments in upstream process in the entire BD RMG manufacturing hub is developed operations which are: based on fast fashion and mass production with Marketing and Merchandising: A strong marketing price-sensitive brands, the manufacturing model is a and merchandising/development team is needed bigger production line. separated from supply chain/production follow- The development team are smaller and are used up which is regular trend in BD. If merchants do to develop samples with 7-14 days of lead time. supply chain and production, follow up then they They literally have no centralized R&D center which will be kicked out from today’s disruptive market includes making garments/washing etc. without fail. They should be equipped with Software to track their tiny activities daily in marketing and The existing production model requires higher merchandising both. Smart analysis of market data product volume and lower style mixes to get and regular merchandising data will help them, as maximum efficiency. Consequently, majority of well as management, to track the effectiveness of the factories had to face an extreme lean situation efforts and efficiency of peoples. Merchandisers continuously for these few years. should be able to see the future and they should be trained to do so by giving them an exposure Impact of this lean has led the big groups to reduce of the root where fashion is created. The French prices nakedly to survive their big factories and fashion show are the places where creation is done. consequently small/medium factories remain lean. Suppliers should do their innovative presentations Thousands of sub-contract dependent factories there. If not the fashion creator, but BD suppliers became empty. And thus hundreds of factories can be the first followers- in this way they can take already closed and few are in pipeline.
Weekly PCD load Mar (7-12) 3% Lead time Apr (25-30) 2% 46~60 - 10% Jan (4-9) 21% Feb (15-20) 5% 36~45 - 26% 8~15 - 2% Feb (1-6) 6% >61 - 5%
16~20 - 3% Feb (8-13) 7% 21~25 - 5%
Jan (25-30) 11%
31~35 - 18% Jan (11-16) 25% 26~30 - 33% Jan (18-23) 20%
Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 47 Apparel Today Factory Tales
Sp. process Des+Fray 4% Zigzag 2% Wash type Fold Hem 2% Rib+Repair 14% Acid wash 2% Enz wash 3%
Gmts wash 26% Rib 4%
No 74%
Enz+Bls 69%
get further preferences to enter to the market with PCD Analysis unique footsteps. Central Planning: It is the most important segment Real time PCD tracker. Version 2.01 in the RMG supply chain which is underutilized still in BD. Most successful factories in the world are planning driven and this is proven since the starting Mer.Can cut/PPM Date Buyer # of the RMG retailing. Couple of good software are
All Periods Months vital to do enormous data analysis and planning in A Brand different complex SKU and matrix.
Strategic planning team: This is the most important B Brand 2020 segment in Operations strategy and execution. Central planning team are the heart of the C Brand organizations that analyze the optimum capacity of Jan Feb Mar Apr individual factories into the group and guide for an optimum best mix of product ranges for individual D Brand factories to achieve the best possible revenue from each. There should be a product mix with some percentage of basic product, some percentage of the cream of selling in the implantation stage. Also, value added product and at least 10% new innovative buyers come to factories and visits industry who product. Basic products will run the factory and make fastest fashion brands because- they can carry their overhead costs, Value added product will sense a feel of what is going to be launched in the make the profit because it will be price driven and retail after 3-4 months – so these footsteps can be the innovative products will keep the factory moving followed by our designers as well. in to the new era. Planning team will combine all and guide merchants to set their marketing strategy Sampling and R&D: Sampling and R&D should stand and continuously work closely with marketing and alone with all facilities in closer places (Making, merchandising team. washing, testing) with 5 times capacity than existing as order sizes have reduced up to 10 times lower and Operational planning team: This team works with style variance has increased up to 10-15 times higher the merchandised orders and work closely with than before. These sections must be equipped with supply chain and finance team to prepare course of synchronized software, augmented reality to track actions related to feeding the individual factories and the progress and activities in real-time as multiple set optimum order allocations and pre-production cross matrix functions are included in these areas. support systems to the factories. These combined activities will reduce re-processing. Chances of mistakes and improve the FPY yield Ability to deliver 2/3 times fastest than before: in sample submissions. The sampling and R&D Manufacturing facilities are designed for bulk section should be facilitated with a number of good productions with lower product mixes and higher industrial engineers to add values to the products volume. This model will not sustain anymore and which is most critical to the production effectiveness need to break it down TODAY itself! Modular layout and efficiency. and process design is mandatory in each of the production segments as below as examples: Design studio: Factories having design studio will
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30K 20K 10k 5k 2k Enzyme+Bleach 0 >100k 0% % Style by order qty 5 fabrics usually. Thus this area should be designed precisely to inspect, track and find potential issues Woven 14% through analysis of smart database and dynamic analysis system to continuously give feedback to production floor as well as to the supply chain. A fabric inspection team should also be equipped with sample washing machine, rubbing, strength etc. testing equipment either. For example, a factory has consumed 100k yard fabrics in a month which were passed in 4 point inspections but got 1.5% Denim 86% rejected garments due to fabrics problems. While this contradictory data occurs then analysis of the defects points found in fabric inspections may indicate to find the root cause. Example: - %Style by fabrications Above fabrics are passed under a 4-point inspection system yet it has higher ranges of three types of i. Weaving/knitting/dying/print/embroidery: Need to increase number of machines in different particular defects which actually creates fabric holes variations which may increase establishment cost and rejections after wash. Thus, this real time analysis but if proper marketing is done the ROI will be less of daily inspection will help factory to voice out daily than two years from the establishment. It will help basis and take necessary actions on the spot, not uninterrupted fabric flow from marketing to till bulk after a month while disaster has already occurred. productions. Number of sample machines need to Pre-production: A strong pre-production setup with increase up to 3 / 4 times than existing. a capacity of making 10 different pre-production samples daily and a separate Pilot run team is ii. Garment manufacturing factory: Garment making factory need to adopt the most effective changes essential for pre-production production testing. as everything is stuck here which plays a vital role These should be separated from bulk production ultimately. A few of them are described as below. lines to set all necessary plans, bulletins, machines, folders, needles, threads, patterns etc. for smooth Factory warehouse: A factory warehouse is the bulk operations without interruption. This section key of all problems in factory operations and the should be equipped with actual bulk machines with processes here are most critical which is literally utmost quality, strong IE and technical team and an invisible in BD. They should be equipped with extraordinary mechanic team in this section. And proper software to track daily entry exit of materials, daily activities of this section has to be monitored inventories, stocks, movements of materials inside precisely in real time which is very critical. Usually, the factory etc. Still in many big groups Warehouse this is the weakest link in BD operations. is maintained either manually or ineffective amateur software. Optimistic and pessimistic approaches Cutting and finishing sections: These two sections in lead time's management should be avoided and should be equipped with 20% more capacity than stock age should be calculated and held accountable that of sewing production lines to ensure zero to turn it to cash. interruption of sewing or shipments respectively in these areas with necessary quality control and Fabric inspection: 75% of the FOB value is engineering checkpoints. (CAD efficiency, Risk 50 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Apparel Today Factory Tales Defect contribution % from suppliers Mat shade 1st pass rate (%) Supplier- G 11% 50% 5% 15% Supplier- G 69% Supplier- F 11% 48% 7% 12% Supplier- F 100% Supplier- E 22% 16% 9% 15% Supplier- E 100% Supplier- D 26% 17% 10% 17% Supplier- C 10% 47% 8% 8% Supplier- D 79% Supplier- B 12% 52% 7% 12% Supplier- C 100% Supplier- A 10% 33% 20% 8% Supplier- B 53% 0 20 40 60 80 100 Slub Foreign yarn Missing yarn Knot Thick yarn 0 20 40 60 80 100 analysis and Layout design) system to track every single piece of garments under processing. Washable RFID enables tracking Sewing production: We have to consider modular of garments by color, size and destinations outside sewing lines for quick changeover of styles with of the sewing factory too. Real time quality control small qty per style. Thus smart automation is must data can help management to find the potential to reduce manpower and machine demand. Some problem area within a minute and take immediate factories are using Co-Bots (Robotic hands for pick actions. This is the least developed area in BD RMG up and dispose in some critical automatic machine operations till now which need to be addressed processes which can be programmed to run 24 hours immediately. without any interruptions either. Centralized parts unit (CPU) with small assembly line designed for iii. Washing factory: Washing is one of the most quick change-over is basic need in today’s demand. critical area of expertise, diversity and innovations U shape layout, group layout, unit synchro layout, towards savings, new fashions and taking Face to face layouts are quite popular modular market lead. Many of the dry processes can be system. Cut to pack production floor can also automated by laser technology, garment dying ensure reducing back and forth communications in can be done without water as well as washing different sections and a straight flow with minimum innovations with extremely less water is possible throughput time until packing. It also helps to reduce in today’s fashion trends. Vast range of sampling man: machine ratio as well as reduces 20%-25% and R&D facilities, adequate technicians and throughput time in productions and reduces the ultra-modern machines can give a rapid change chances of NPT up to 10% either. towards productive adoption to the new fashion trends. ETP, innovative sludge management, Industrial engineering and planning: A factory has wastewater recycling plans, green technologies to have their individual PPC and IE team who needs and least carbon emissions are the tweaking to work precisely for every single style allocated for areas where you can add value to the product bulk production and shipments. These two team has and as well ask extra price for this, and there is to be designed and equipped, same as the Central willingness to pay if it saves the environment. On team and they will have to have a simple real time the other hand, it is reducing prices subsequently, communication system to track the actual with the but it requires a massive investment but a well previously forecasted plan by central team. Usually analyzed calculative attempt may give a ROI top managements in best organizations manage PPC of 2-3 years on such investments. PLC driven and IE team of the entire company usually. Based software can track chemical dozing to machine on accurate data and analysis in regular basis, they running and control from central point which decide the future course of actions to improve or enables monitoring of actual production progress adopt or change. and controlling quality and efficiency of machines Real-time tracking of manufacturing processes: and manpower in washing. Most of the washing Real time manufacturing tracking is a regular need facilities couldn’t adopt these latest technologies for today’s volatile business where as not more than which is keeping us behind in the fancy fashion 1% of BD factories adopted this old technology. demand and from survival as the fittest. World has gone to Automatic guided vehicles for Consistent quality to comply with the market transferring materials, AI enabled automatic hanger competition: Quality control is the most system to reduce manpower dependency for controversial area yet in BD garment manufacturing. feeding and line balancing, RFID enables tracking As per best practices, quality control means, Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 51 Apparel Today Factory Tales “reducing process variations” and Adopting d. Factory owners should take immediate actions on “Precision” then “Accuracy”. It starts from the setting up marketing and sample making hub in upstream whereas we jump into quality control core business countries like France, Italy, Hong Kong, while bulk production starts which is the last stage China and different countries in Europe to get into and we have literally nothing to do other than the market in daily basis. Sitting here and expecting troubleshooting and fixing and, in some cases, hiding to learn actual retail demand is a daydream only. from customers. Ultimately poor consistency in quality puts an impact in-store return, clearance sales e. BGMEA/BKMEA leaders need to find a way to and it comes back as a boomerang to the factories improve currency flexibility, stability of exchange through order cut down or price reduction to offset the rates and port flexibility to import and export store returns and clearance sales. Often we forget that goods with shortest possible time. productivity is just a consequence of consistent quality f. Strive to create a forward and back ward linkage in processes and to ensure this we have to successfully by being vertically integrated at all levels from yarn reduce the variations in processes. production to containing hanging shipment. Making 1000 garments with 20% alteration is worse g. Try producing Value added functional products than making 900 garments with a 1% alteration. Cost like lingerie, fire safe garments, work wear, WR, of quality is yet untouched in general in BD RMG WF, Seamless WKT, sportswear etc. arena. We must put our best effort immediately. A little smart move towards the Rapid Take outs: Conclusions: change in the retail business may Lead us to the a. If we see above, we can find the necessity of No. 01 manufacturing hub for the Apparel Business. strong data management system and tactical Let us not forget that Nokia has died doing nothing strategy making ability in each segments. Thus we wrong 8/10 years back. RMG retailing is in a similar need to set right young peoples to the right place. paradigm shift which will need to be addressed New ideas with new trends are the cup of tea for wisely and work on adaptability to survive first and the young stars. If we can blend the experiences of grow with a long-term sustainability mindset. old generations with their young, fresh mindset the immediate paradigm shift is possible and that is Author the only way out to survive. b. We need to have transparent HR policy to attract best peoples and right strategy to develop them towards well derived goals through training coaching and motivations through performance appraisals. c. We need to adopt Artificial intelligence, Co-Bots, IoT technologies which is rapidly being adopted in many brands and manufacturing factories over the globe. Top management should focus only on getting real time authentic data first, second, analyses them well and see them in an effective Engr. Anisul Hoque Ansari manner to find the top five areas to improve Sr. General Manager, Operations, Hameem Group immediately and take actions step by step. Certified Lean practitioner, LSSBB, Strategic Operations expert 52 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd. Cotton Today Cotton and yarn update: Yarn price may go down by 15-20 cents per kg in next month Abdul Wadud CEO & Management Consultant TRANSFORM Local spinning mills are booked forward and some are even booking the rest quantity of April’20 delivery. Now 100% cotton Ne 30/s card knit yarn now is selling at USD 2.95-3.05 per kg. So, 100% cotton spinning mills are now operating with too good margin. But as cotton price has gone down by another 7-8 cents per lb (Now at 15:52 Bangladesh time on 13-03-2020 ICE July’20 is selling at 60.30), and spinning market is Figure: Due to the effect of Coronavirus the global cotton has greatly affected. competitive, it is most likely that Crude Metric yarn price would go down by 15- Crude oil futures slumped almost 20% Monday 30 20 cents per kg by next month. WTI crude oil futures - one-day % change 20 However, bottom line is to operate 10 with a philosophy that ensures Percent 0 win-win situation across the -10 clothing value chain with the rapid -20 changes resulting from the global -30 healthcare pandemic. 1990-1994 1995-1999 2000-2004 2005-2009 2010-2014 2015-2019 Source: Bloomberg Coronavirus and its impact on textile in China manufacturer in the world. The mills operation was shutdown cotton consumption in China has or cut down since Coronavirus China is the leading textile harshly been affected as spinning outbreak in China. Due to the effect of Coronavirus Oparating rate of cotton yarn plants in 2019-2020 the cotton gray fabric production 70 was also affected. 60 50 40 Oil price 30 20 Oil prices crashed on 9th March, 10 suffering the biggest daily loss 0 since the 1991 Gulf War, sparked by the collapse of an OPEC supply 2017-1-3 2018-1-3 2019-1-3 2017-7-3 2018-7-3 agreement that now threatens to 2017-3-3 2019-7-3 2017-5-3 2017-9-3 2018-3-3 2018-5-3 2019-3-3 2017-11-3 2019-5-3 2018-9-3 2020-1-3 2019-9-3 2018-11-3 2019-11-3 2020-3-3 overwhelm the world with oil. Oparating rate of cotton gray fabric plants in 2019-2020 90 S&P 500 Index 80 70 60 The slump in oil price and 50 40 heightened fear of a global 30 reassertion due to virus outbreak 20 10 caused the benchmark S&P 500 0 Index to tumble 7%, temporarily halting the trading. 2017-1-3 2018-1-3 2019-1-3 2017-7-3 2018-7-3 2017-3-3 2019-7-3 2017-5-3 2017-9-3 2018-3-3 2018-5-3 2019-3-3 2017-11-3 2019-5-3 2018-9-3 2020-1-3 2019-9-3 2018-11-3 2019-11-3 2020-3-3 54 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Cotton Today S&P 500 index daily close versus ICE cotton nearby futures settlement Fixation strategy Cents/Lb. Index 100.00 3500 ICE would remain volatile with the 95.00 3300 changes of plantation intentions of 90.00 3100 different countries, world demand 85.00 2900 for cotton and the changes of 80.00 2700 weather in the coming months. 75.00 2500 But the key to the trend of ICE lies 70.00 2300 with the import demand of cotton 65.00 2100 from China and the recovery 60.00 1900 of global clothing demand and 55.00 1700 economy. 50.00 1500 4th March 2015 - 6th March 2020 So, mills may fix the immediate shipments at the current level. For Cotton nearby close S&PP 500 Index close the future shipments of 2019/2020 crop may fix at current level with The ‘Buffet Indicator’ which compares the Wilshire total market Stops capitalization to US GDP was at all Checking the cirucuit breaker for S&P 500 Source: Bloomberg time high at 157% in early February S&P 500 Index - Last Price 3400 this year, easily surpassing the dot. com bubble peak of the late 1990s. 3200 It is still at 140% and significantly 3000 Index level overvalued by 35-40%. 7% price limit 2800 The stock market bubble which 13% price limit was mainly fueled by ultra-cheap 2600 money, stock buy-backs and 20% price limit 2400 indexing, has masked what was going on in the real economy and Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Jan Feb lulled many investors into a false 2019 2020 sense of security. ICE Index Index volatility is more linked some distant puts. For 2020/2021 with global demand for clothing S&P Index and oil price has crop, look to fix the price at with the outbreak of Coronavirus, impacted ICE cotton index to current level of some percentage cotton import demand from further go down by 7-8 cents, of total quantity if available at China, cotton plantation by reaching 59-60 cents per pound. suitable level. major producers, weather, fund As a matter of fact, ICE Cotton movement and currency. We are focused to provide consultancy services for any business but specialized in spinning. We are equipped to find solutions for problems and TRANSFORM develop necessary strategy, system, and people for the transformation of the organization for long term sustainability. In pursue to transform business and professionals for better performance and sustainability. Contact: 01730357699 E-mail: [email protected] Youth Icon We should plan smartly to face “the pandemic coronavirus Maheer Mannan Deputy Managing Director, Shangu Tex Ltd. Shangu Tex Ltd is one of the The whole world economy has don’t have enough expertise in this pioneer companies in woven been slowed down. Economic sector but we can build. We also garments manufacturing in and manufacturing giant country have to keep in mind the cost- China first experienced the terrible effectiveness. The same fabric Bangladesh established by M. situation and now it is everywhere! we procure from China with say A. Mannan (1967 – 2010), late In the first phase of this global 95cents, but it is 1.30 dollars here Chairman of Shangu Tex Ltd. situation, we have survived quite well. in Bangladesh. Buyers always try He started this company with a to squeeze the price and literally vision in 2001. After his death, As a company, we have shipped they do. So, we should be more our fabrics and other raw materials Mrs. Hasina Mannan took the careful in raw material sourcing, from China before the Chinese manufacturing cost and other reins of the company and built New Year. We are also sourcing factors to be cost-effective. upon Mr. Mannan’s legacy. locally and from Indonesia, trying to source from India, Pakistan, At the same time, our owners Now Maheer Mannan, the son of Turkey etc. for the new orders. But should balance in investing. M.A. Mannan has been leading it is still difficult for the industry Because we should have the the company from the front because we source mainly from capacity in all sectors. successfully as Deputy Managing China and let’s see what’s the situation coming next. We should Textile Today: Why woven sector Director. Recently Textile Today plan smartly to face this pandemic. is not growing much compare to FT Team had an exclusive knit sector? What are the main interview with him. Textile Today: Bangladesh is obstacles and way-outs? still lagging in woven sector’s Textile Today: Global business is backward linkage supply chain, Maheer Mannan: My straight right now a bit unstable for the how it can be mitigated? answer is knit fabric is easier to Coronavirus outbreak, how is manufacture than woven fabrics. your company considering this Maheer Mannan: When we talk Another major cause is knit situation? about denim and knitting, we have fabric can be rectified, if there surpassed the world already. But are any problems but woven is Maheer Mannan: The world is still, we are lagging in the weaving more delicate to produce. Here, experiencing a pandemic virus sector and this is an infant industry risk factors are more acute and which is very new for all of us. considering others. Maybe we that’s why entrepreneurs don’t feel 56 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Youth Icon ZDHC Update confident to invest. Maheer Mannan at a glance! We are also doing knitted garments from the beginning and that gives us much more confidence and definitely, our expertise also has grown up in this sector. Loves to playing Go to attire: Sneakers, Sleeps 5-6 hours In terms of revenue, from woven football and guitars. Chinos and Polo Shirt a day garments, we can make double or triple revenue. Before that, we have to make ourselves ready. If we don’t try, we cannot gain expertise. If we want to fetch more Favorite food: Helping: To run a Dreams: value-added buyers, we have to mom's cooked Scholarship platform for primary To own an make ready and smooth our woven beef school students called AlterYouth. Aston Martin! sector supply chain. We should not rely much on other countries. different baskets as the plan of a than 7-8 factories producing sustainable business model. We do swimwear, here we are seeing the Textile Today: Shangu Tex Ltd is not plan just staying in the woven opportunity. We have the plan to doing business successfully for sector or we are not planning to diversify our product ranges so more than 17 years, what are the go in knits. What we are planning that we can offer a buyer whatever growth plan of Shangu Tex in the is to do the big value addition they need. That is why we are next 10 years? garments in the garments industry. expanding our capacity; within the next few years we want to Maheer Mannan: As a company, From last year we are have more than 50 lines and also we believe in diversification. manufacturing swimwear our team is very enthusiastic and Though we do woven tops mainly, for an American brand. In eager to learn. but we want to put eggs in Bangladesh there are not more ZDHC MRSL submission platform launched Desk Report Submissions made via the platform any updates. and easily,” told Scott Echols. will be considered for the next ZDHC MRSL update. A transparent To protect data integrity, users are “Transparency and continuous process and clear set of standards given a set of clear instructions, via improvement towards reducing will also ensure the objective a link to the ZDHC MRSL Update the use of harmful chemicals evaluation of chemicals. Principles and Procedures. in fashion are central to the mission of the Roadmap to Zero They were created by an independent This important document Programme. This platform will MRSL Advisory Council (MAC), describes the information required provide a transparent mechanism which makes the final decisions on to successfully submit a proposed for chemical substances to be substances and limit values. new substance to be considered added to the ZDHC MRSL,” Echols for inclusion in the ZDHC MRSL. It concluded. “The channels are always open also outlines the process for doing so. for any stakeholder to provide To help users get started, ZDHC is objective, scientific evidence to ZDHC Programme Director, Scott providing an online demonstration, support a request for chemical Echols, notes how the Submission which offers a step-by-step guide restrictions,” said Phil Patterson, Platform adds value for the entire to adding substances or amending Chair of the MRSL Advisory industry. information on the Submission Council (MAC). Platform. “The release of the ZDHC MRSL The Submission Platform offers Submission Platform is an exciting The ZDHC MRSL Submission an easy way to contribute to the milestone for the Roadmap to Zero Platform is available now. To ZDHC MRSL, while incorporating Programme. It will allow people access it, simply visit the following important measures to ensure the to submit their suggestions for link http://mrslsubmission. transparency and consistency of additions to the ZDHC MRSL quickly roadmaptozero.com/. 58 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Factory Tales Fiber Today Asia Pacific Rayon to expand viscose rayon market in Bangladesh APR Story Asia Pacific Rayon (APR), a fully integrated viscose rayon producer in Asia, is looking to strengthen its presence in Bangladesh as one of its core markets. The company, which set up a commercial operation here last year, is eyeing the big market potential in the country which has a growing Muslim population reaching about 164 million. APR also expects robust demand for viscose rayon in Bangladesh as a Figure 1: President of Indonesia Joko Widodo inaugurated APR, the country’s largest sustainable textile fiber. integrated viscose rayon production facility. “As the world's second-largest the first viscose manufacturer total investment of approximately apparel exporter for Western in Indonesia to obtain the USD1.1 billion, is sited next to its fashion brands, Bangladesh is Sustainable Textile Production pulp supplier, allowing APR to a priority market for us. Our (STeP) certification from OEKO- have good control of product goal is to support the country in TEX®, an independent Swiss-based quality and full visibility of its producing sustainable textiles certification organization for the pulp sourcing which is visible on to meet rising demand by responsible manufacturing of its proprietary blockchain-based consumers for environmentally- viscose staple fiber. mobile app, Follow-Our-Fibre. friendly garments. As a vertically integrated producer, from The company has also invested in The inauguration ceremony plantation to viscose, we provide clean manufacturing technology included the signing of a plaque our customers with the essential that utilizes energy from by President Widodo and the stability they require, in terms of renewable biomass and a robust symbolic sealing by the President supply, price, service and quality,” chemical recovery system that of an export container with 10,190 said Ben Poon, APR’s Business delivers performance comparable tons of viscose rayon fiber for Head. to EU Best Available Technologies shipment to APR’s export markets. (EU BAT). Viscose rayon – A natural fiber of APR’s products are exported to choice Presidential endorsement 14 countries including key textile centers such as Bangladesh, Viscose rayon is widely APR’s 240,000-ton production Pakistan, Vietnam, and Brazil. acknowledged as a sustainable facility in Indonesia was officially alternative to cotton. The raw inaugurated by the country’s material is made of cellulose President, Joko Widodo, in fibers from acacia and eucalyptus February this year. At the trees grown on renewable inauguration, President Widodo plantations that are certified to lauded the company for helping internationally recognized industry to advance the development of standards. Viscose rayon is natural, sustainable fashion industry. He biodegradable, and has unique also welcomed APR’s investment end-product qualities such as in boosting the country’s economy softness, good drape and high through export and job creation. absorbency. The role of the private sector is influential in driving economic Although it started operations growth, alongside the stimulus barely a year ago, APR has already provided by the Government, he said. established its sustainability APR’s facility, which represents a Figure 2: The symbolic sealing by the credentials in the industry. It is President of an export container. Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 59 ALEETEX (CHINA) TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD PROFESSIONAL DYEING MACHINE MANUFACTURER QR241D QR01-85KW HTHP Package Yarn Dyeing Machine Radio Frequency Dryer TEC-WIN QR656 Softflow Fabric Dyieng Machine Jet Fabric Dyeing Machine Visit Us at We promise to our clients Reasonable Price DTG 2020 Short Production Time Hall No.: 7A, Booth No.: 103 Satisfactory Sales & after Sales Service. Date: 11th-14th June 2020 China Headquarter: Room 2809-2810, Building B, Wanda Plaza, HuiShan District, Wuxi City, Jiangsu Province，China. M. +8618811996637 (WhatsApp) W. www.aleetex.com Factory Address: 18 Yanyu Road, Qianzhou Street, Huishan District, Wuxi City, Jiangsu Province, China Bangladesh Office: House#8, Road#8, Sector3, Uttara, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh. M. +88 013 15001515 E. [email protected] Unveiling industry best practices Knitting & knitwear ALEETEX (CHINA) TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD March 2020 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 03 l Pages 61 to 78 PROFESSIONAL DYEING MACHINE MANUFACTURER QR241D QR01-85KW HTHP Package Yarn Dyeing Machine Radio Frequency Dryer Knitwear exporters can borrow $20mn from Export Development Fund Pai Lung two carriages flat knitting machine Unveiling practices best industry TEC-WIN QR656 Softflow Fabric Dyieng Machine Jet Fabric Dyeing Machine Knitting & Knitwear March 2020 Dierent types of Visit Us at stitches in knitting We promise to our clients Reasonable Price DTG 2020 Short Production Time Hall No.: 7A, Booth No.: 103 Satisfactory Sales & after Sales Service. Date: 11th-14th June 2020 China Headquarter: Room 2809-2810, Building B, Wanda Plaza, HuiShan District, Wuxi City, Jiangsu Province，China. M. +8618811996637 (WhatsApp) W. www.aleetex.com Factory Address: 18 Yanyu Road, Qianzhou Street, Huishan District, Wuxi City, Jiangsu Province, China Bangladesh Office: House#8, Road#8, Sector3, Uttara, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh. M. +88 013 15001515 E. [email protected] Knitting Today Pai Lung two-carriages flat knitting machine Pai Lung Story The latest Pai Lung's PLF-IC2 two detect, maintain action check, carriage system machine series racking, stitch and other control. is one of the most popular high Inside memory allows 24 pieces productive models especially in of key in files saving, and n add collar, cuff, and lower hem of gown an optional USB device with PC manufacture. software or program edition. Standard function New 6 various strokes in pattern design- The machine can be Two separated carriages can be added the optional function for worked individually or in tandem. 6 different section of strokes in making some special pattern or The 60" machine max. work width: button holes in pattern design. SO"xl. (unit: piece) This function can be used in labor work saving for easy yarn ending The 80" machine max. work width: in basic yarn ending in basic collar production without needle hook 7O"xl. (unit: piece) back in yarn ed hidden work. Maintain window design for easy maintain service and clean. Each carriage can control up to 6 The whole side tension includes different colors on three working the auxiliary feeding device for rails. With semi-jacquard system better yarn tension control and of a combination of high and low smooth feeding; which can help in butt needles and step jacks. This knitting speed up and less edge machine is ready for popular collar broken problem. design including plain, striper, vertical line, bird eyes, squares, rib or some simple pattern. Friendly color LCD control panel for easy programming, operating message, racking control, error Options Air nozzle system with pressure regulator Specially for heavy dirt Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 63 Knitting Today Spandex stroke saving device- strokes function Improving spandex work feeding efficiency. Basic lycra feeding device positive lycra feeding device direct waxing Specifications device Optional device: Lycra stroke saving device Plating yarn carrier Needle segment plate bed USB device and edition software *Above equipment maybe changed air nozzle clean system variety without notice. clean periodically and in knitting area accident deduction. Direct waxing feeding device- To deal with hard yarn feeding problem, which ca help in less edge broken situation and u Gauge 7G, 10G, 12G, 14G, 16G, 18G machine working speed. Knitting Width 60"/ 152cm (max. 26"x2 pc - 50"x1 pc). 80"/ 203cm (max. 36"x2 pc - 70"x1 pc). Carriages 2 units with individual or tandem function (1+1 sys.). Camming 3 tech ways for needle and one butt jack control. Knitting speed Max. 1.2m/s depends on yarn materials & tension. Stitch control 0-99 levels by stepping control. Racking system 1/2 needle each pitch stepped right or left by program. Rail system 3 units. Yarn carriers 1 carriage controls 6 units. Total 12 units. Side Tension 6 units/ each side. Top Tension 60"- 16 units, 80"- 20 units. USB device and software for PC edition for more program storage Auxiliary yarn 2 units. and easy edition in PC platform. feeding with wax device Take down Combined rubber rollers with motor control and adjustment. Auto stop Yarn broken, knobs, Anti-rewind, needle detect, device shock stop and program error. Operating lamp Green-Normal. Yellow- work completed. Red- abnormal. Controller Color LCD for program input and 24 files storage allowed. Program English & Chinese version. Other language is possible. Backup power When power stop, carriages can complete current course then wait power back for continue work. Emergency Two emergency buttons for quick power stop. Segment plate type needle bed- stop Depends on demand. Secured Transparent covers for noise reduction and personal platform safety. Positive yarn tension feeder system-For stable and quicker Safety Full covey & illumination. spandex feeding. Power input Single phase AC 220+/- 10%, 50-60 Hz. 64 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 A Sustainable Value For Your Knits DTG 2020 | | CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE | SINGAPORE DATE 11TH - 14TH JULY 2020 | LOCATION | INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CITY BASHUNDHARA (ICCB) | BOOTH | HALL 7, BOOTH 7-177 Knitting Savvy Different types of stitches in knitting Arif-Uz-Zaman Knitting is not a modern thing Type of Knitting stiches rather it uses the same principals of using needles to form interconnecting loops to make fabrics from long ago, can be th th dated back to the 11 and 14 The stockinette The Fair Isle The ribbing The cable The seed centuries AD, according to the stich stich stich stich stich historians. In the past, knitting was practiced for the necessity of warm and durable cloths where today it is merely a hobby. Before getting into the knitting game The moss The eyelet Intrasia knitting The linen The garter let’s know the different types of stich stich stich stich stich stitches. Some of the most basic types of have mastered the art of knitting. along the back rather they work in knitting stitches are given below: Rib stitch is the most basic knit- the sections. It is perfect to create purl stitch pattern to learn. In motif. 1. The garter stitch: This one is ribbing the knits and purls line the simplest pattern of knitting up consistently across rows to 8. The cable stitch: It may be stitches and must-know for the give you beautiful columns that seemed complicated at first look beginners. Before getting down to alternate across your fabric. It is but you will find that it is one of learn how to purl you need to learn important to pay attention in this the most straightforward knitting knitting every stitch of every row. knitting pattern that the number of patterns. Cables are formed of Most of the beginner start with stitches you cast on need to match using same knit and purls. The only garter stitch to make scarf though the number of stitches required. varying factor is that you need to hot pad, a washcloth, etc. can also twist one row of the stitches. be chosen. 5. The moss stitch: It is one of the easiest knitting stitch to learn. 9. The seed stitch: It work in the 2. The stockinette stitch: This is It works in the same manner as same way as ribbing but looks also one of the simplest types of ribbing for two rows. It does not like a moss stitch. But each row knitting stitches which involve curls as there is a balance of knit is off by one stitch unlike the rib knitting one row and purling the and purl stitches. That’s why it stitch. These types of stitches can next and alternating the same is perfect for making scarves, bring lot of texture effortlessly. It is manner. When people consider blankets, etc. where you see both perfect for scarfs and blankets. knitting they think of this pattern side of the fabric. of knitting and more than a 10. The linen stitch: It is also hundred fancy knitting pattern can 6. The eyelet stitch: If you want known as fabric stitch which is be conjured from the stockinette. to know what is the most popular one of the most stunning stitch incredible lacing knitting stitch pattern resulting various looks by 3. The fair isle stitch: This is one of than it is the eyelet stitch, which just altering the color scheme. If the most unique knitting stitches mostly works by altering garter you are fashion enthusiasts, then and also known as colorful knitting stitch ridges and stockinette it is perfect to help you creating a because in this type you need eyelets. It is used creating a unique variety of unique scarf and sweater to alternate colors which create meshed fabric for scarves, shawls design. stunning and gorgeous pieces. It and blankets. This should be your is mostly consist of two colors in These are some basic types of go-to knitting pattern if you are every row and the vital part of this stitches among hundreds of stitch into the fashion trend. knitting stitch pattern is that the types. For the new knitter, learning color changes need to occur over 7. Intrasia knitting: It is a color some of the stitches might seem just a few stitches. work knitting pattern unlike the very critical but once you learn the fair isle knitting which involves basics, the most complex patterns 4. The ribbing stitch: You need working colors in section. In this and alternate stitches can be done, to start learning alternate knitting pattern colors are not carried which will be fashion-worthy and and purling the same row if you stunning. 66 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Textile Today Question of the Month Bangladesh Energy Regulatory Commission (BERC) has increased the bulk electricity price on a weighted average by 8.4% to Tk5.17 from Tk4.77. When the supply chain of Bangladesh’s textile and readymade garments (RMG) sector is taking a hit as its main sourcing destination, China, is the epicenter of the recent coronavirus outbreak. Prices of all garment accessories, including yarn and sewing threads, have already gone up. In this remaining reality, how will this increased electricity price affect your business competitiveness? Samit Hassan Director Silver Line Group The increased price of electricity will affect the competitiveness Sheikh Shaheenul Islam of the business in many ways. The competitiveness will decrease Director (Marketing & Merchandising) because the company will have to increase the prices of the Windy Group garments that it delivers into the marketplace. Increased prices mean the firm’s product would be less attractive compared to others that are provided by competitors in the global market. If the The increase in electricity business is not careful, it could be pushed out of the market due to definitely will affect in garments decreased competitiveness in the marketplace. sector as well as another sector. But if the government can Industry associations should have consultations with the government ensure uninterrupted energy about the cost of electricity and the impact as the government supply to Textile industries could consider offering subsidies to the garment companies who then textile industries can even sell their products to the international market. pay more to the government as enterprisers can save capital investment from generations. Also, some big textile industries are generating own electricity which is sometimes excess than they require so the government can make a policy to buy the excess electricity and use it in the national grid. So by making Shahidullah Azim proper policy and for excess electricity from industries and Managing Director Classic Group make sure 100% energy to run the industries to save foreign currency from generators, Due to coronavirus, the overall apparel sector is facing a critical the industry can pay to the moment. Moreover, buyers are canceling orders. My one shipment government the reasonable approval is pending worth US$ 350k. Production clearance is price by saving capital beside pending 175k in UK and US. Production cost is increasing but the new industries can set up as by price is being decreased. If regularly energy price increases, it is that way factory set up cost will not possible to survive. We need support from the government to be lower. reduce energy prices. Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 67 Sustainable Cotton Organic Cotton Bangladesh attains largest growth with 73% increase in GOTS certification In terms of number and growth (%) rate Bangladesh attained the first position in GOTS-certification in 2019. Akhi Akter Countries with largest growth in GOTS-certification in 2019 percentage. 7765 certified facilities worldwide, an increase of 35% with more than 3 million workers covered under Bangladesh 73% GOTS in 2019. Netherlands In 2019, the number of GOTS 73% certified facilities globally grew by 35%, from 5,760 to 7,765 Spain 71% located in 70 countries. The number demonstrates that Turkey 65% GOTS successfully serves as a sustainable solution. The required GOTS Managing Director. 73% increase in GOTS certified certified organic fibers protect facilities. The high level of interest the climate by absorbing CO2 GOTS certification helps to ensure in the GOTS Bangladesh Seminar and every processing step – from compliance with each of the 17 UN 2019 is also reflected in the field to fashion – has to meet Sustainable Development Goals. number of certified facilities. stringent social and environmental criteria before a finished product is More than 3 Million workers India has been at the top position allowed to carry the GOTS label. working in GOTS-certified with the highest number of GOTS facilities were reported in 2019 certified facilities since 2008. This This huge leap forward was seen in by the 17 accredited independent year, there was an increase of 438 both, production and consuming Certification Bodies. GOTS-certified facilities in India. regions. “With the whole supply chain from 2019 was also a GOTS revision year farm to retail, along with suppliers Countries with largest growth in resulting in the new GOTS Version of GOTS Approved Chemical GOTS-certification in percentage 6.0, due to be released in spring Inputs, India has a unique position in 2019 are: Bangladesh (73%), 2020. Netherlands (73%), Spain (71%), in the organic textile industry. and Turkey (65%). In terms of total In the past five years, local More than 10 Indian brands are numbers of certified facilities, the exporters and international offering GOTS labeled goods in highest increase is reported from organizations have heavily Indian retail, while few others are Bangladesh (+505), followed by invested in improving using GOTS as a risk management India (+438) and Europe (+396). environmental and social tool and may start labeling in conditions in Bangladesh. the future,” Sumit Gupta, GOTS The top ten countries in terms of Bangladesh showed one of the Representative in India and total numbers of GOTS-certified highest growths this year with a facilities in 2019 are: India (2411), Bangladesh. Bangladesh (1194), Turkey (858), 2500 Germany (565), China (448), Italy 2411 The top ten countries (444), Portugal (301), Pakistan in terms of total numbers of 2000 (276), USA (147), and the UK (75). GOTS-certified facilities in 2019 “The enormous growth shows 1500 that GOTS successfully serves as a 1194 1000 sustainable solution from certified 858 organic fiber to finished product. 565 With more and more GOTS 500 448 444 301 276 147 certified operations and products 75 we altogether substantially 0 India Bangladesh Turkey Germany China Italy Portugal Pakistan USA UK contribute to sustainable development.” Claudia Kersten, 68 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Kids Fashion Kidswear: new frontier in fashion Sayed Abdullah Kidswear fashion market has gained a lot in recent years. According to Statista, the global childrenswear market was a whopping US$ 203.4 Figure: Kidswear fashion market has gained a lot in recent years. billion in 2017. Parents raising awareness on kids has been counted as main force behind this steep rise. In this age of social media, influencing medium’s like Instagram, Facebook celebrities pull a heavy weight in kidswear fashion. Along with the rise of urbanization the upper to middle class are self- conscious to inflate the market. This rise has not gone unnoticed by major brands. Who are at wits end to increase fashion business against the recent shrink in the global apparel market consumption. Luxury fashion houses dressed the influential celebrity kids or elite children with most exquisite collections imaginable. Suri Cruise, Kourtney Kardashian for all, Parisian luxury brand Bonpoint is trusted by the crème de la crème of the society. It has 110 stores in 29 countries which speak of French elegance, timeless tradition and the highest quality. Other names like Carrement Beau, which draws inspiration from its French roots and produces clothing with typical Parisian elegance and II Gufo, a leading Italian luxury clothing brand for childrenswear, which specialises in designing for children from 0 to 14 years. Molo is a fashion label characterized by a passion for children. Pants, T-shirts, dresses and jackets are designed the way kids like it: loose, airy and casually comfortable, while Monnalisa presents collections that are trend-conscious, unique and cartoon-printed, strongly inspired by the runway style of the major fashion shows in the world. Children clothing is constantly getting refilled as they grow out of clothes quickly, there is a constant demand for new items, resulting in high profitability. Factory Tales SM Sourcing steps up for green building project Staff Correspondent Figure 1: Team SM Sourcing and 360 TSL were present at the signing ceremony. SM Sourcing, a 100% export- “Best Supplier of The Year” award “More and more of the brands, oriented garments manufacturing from one of Europe’s largest and factories and suppliers are company, was established in 2013 fastest-growing retail brands. focusing on sustainability in with a vision to contribute towards production, producing products the growth of Bangladesh as the “Carbon emission can be identified that are environmentally second-largest textile industry in as our planet's number one sustainable. Going green is not the world. Now, SM has decided enemy. Reducing carbon from the just a buyer’s requirement, it’s to go green. SM Sourcing’s environment is a global challenge. important that we understand commitment to environmental Despite being a garment factory, it’s our responsibility towards our sustainability is unprecedented our commitment towards the future generation as well. Going and the entire group has wellbeing and safety of our planet green will not just add value to our decided to go for USGBC (LEED) is uncompromisable. Our buyers product, but also add value to SM certification. and vendors, both are equally as a brand,” said G.S. Badruddin concerned deeply about our Ahmed (Rahi), Partner, SM A Memorandum of Understanding environment. Going Green, will Sourcing. (MoU) signing ceremony was not only ensure reducing energy held on 2nd March 2020 at 360 and water usage along with lower “We are ready to offer Green TSL office between SM sourcing operating costs but also improved Partnership & Turnkey solution and 360 TSL Green Consultancy indoor air quality and increased services. We can make your Services for USGBC (LEED) employee productivity,” said Mirza establishment 25%+ more energy certifications. Shams Mahmud Shakti, CEO, SM efficient and make your workforce Sourcing. 20% more productive,” said SM Sourcing, a company that Ananta Ahmed, Managing Director mainly works with several reputed “Our employee’s health is a top of 360 Total Solution Limited. buyers from Europe and Japan priority for us. I hope that our have partnered with several other factory will get the platinum “Out of our current 170 odd vendors as their production certificate within a short period ongoing projects, most are partner is committed to quality. SM of time with the help and support garment factories. We have recently received the prestigious from 360 TSL,” said, Mirza Shams. already visited SM sourcing 70 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY SGS HOLISTIC SOLUTION FOR MANAGING ZDHC (ZERO DISCHARGE OF HAZARDOUS CHEMICAL) FOR THE TEXTILE AND FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY The SGS Ho lis�c Solu�on for managing ZERO DISCHARGE OF HAZARDOUS CHEMICAL addresses the chemical and environmental issues in the supply chain. It provides technical support and feasible solu�on to brands, retailers and other players in the value chain. Approved Training Provider of ZDHC Academy Hazardous Substance Control Training Waste Water Tes�ng (ZD HC Accredited) Chemical Screening Root Cause Analysis Chemical Inventory Solu�on SGS IS THE WORLD’S LEADING INSPECTION, VERIFICATION, TESTING AND CERTIFICATION COMPANY. Established in 1878... More than 94,000 employees globally... More than 2600 offices around the world. CONTACT US: CORPORATE OFFICE GULSHAN OFFICE CHITTAGONG OFFICE SGS BANGLADESH LTD SGS BANGLADESH LTD SGS BANGLADESH LTD 2nd, 6th -10th, 13th Floor, Noor Tower; House 37, Road 24, Gulshan- 1, IIUC Tower, 7th and 11th Floor, 110, Bir U�am C R Da�a Road, Dhaka Dhaka- 1212 Plot 9, SK. Mujib Road, Agrabad, 1205 t: +88 02 986 2740; Chi�agong- 4100. t: + 88 02 967 6500; e: [email protected] t: +88 031 715 037, 715 074, 715 082 m: +880 1755 607 022 e: lab.chi�[email protected] e: [email protected] Factory Tales Knitwear News factory and hope that they will get Platinum point with our consultancy,” continued Ananta Ahmed. Md. Ashraful Haque, Partner; Md. Saiful Islam, Partner; Md. Mostofa Mahmud, Group CO, SM sourcing; Nakib Hossain Shoron, CFO, SM Sourcing; Rafiqul Islam, Head of Compliance, SM sourcing; Tofael Ahmed, CEO, SSG Solar; Krithikha Mithukrishnan, Partner and Principal Consultant, Green Sketch; Shafayat Hosen, USGBC LEED Project Coordinator of 360 Total Solution Limited were present at Figure 2: The MOU signing was held on 2 March at 360 TSL office between SM sourcing the signing ceremony. and 360 TSL for USGBC (LEED) certifications. Knitwear exporters can borrow $20m from Export Development Fund Staff Correspondent From now on, the export-oriented a 5.13% fall to $9.62 billion, which manufacturers of knitwear was $10.14 billion in the same products would be able to period a year ago. borrow $20 million from Export Bangladesh Bank has increased Development Fund (EDF) against the size of the Export their foreign currency financing Development Fund (EDF) by 16.7% to manufacturer-exporters for to $3.5 billion from $3 billion to input procurement Bangladesh cater to more exporters. Bank increased the limit to give a cushion to them. EDF was introduced by the central bank in 1988 with a capacity of Earlier, Bangladesh Knitwear $30 million, which is gradually Manufacturers and Exporters increased over time. Association (BKMEA) member factory could borrow a maximum Currently, the EDF interest rate is fixed at 2.5%, plus Libor of $15 million from EDF against Figure: From now on, the export-oriented their foreign currency financing to manufacturers of knitwear products would (London Interbank Offered Rate). be able to borrow $20 million. manufacturer-exporters for input Businesses from various sectors, including garments, can take loans procurement. for the knitwear sector was a up to $25 million for a maximum of In a circular issued on February 25, longstanding demand and we 180 days. the central bank stated the loan welcome the decision as it would ceiling for the knitwear factories the manufacturers to get better Under the existing provision, the has been raised from $15 million to support during fund constraint,” EDF financing is allowed for input $20 million, which will be effective BKMEA First Vice President procurements against back-to- immediately. Mohammad Hatem told Textile Today. back import letters of credit or inland back-to-back LCs in foreign It has now been decided to Due to the fund crunch, a good exchange by manufacturers producing enhance the limit of $15 million number of exporters are facing final output for direct export. to $20 million for member mills difficulties and increasing the limit of BKMEA. Other instructions will help to expand the business, The EDF loans from the central contained in the said circular shall said Hatem. bank are payable by the banks upon receipt of export proceeds remain unchanged, said the circular. In the first seven months of the within 180 days from the date of “Increasing the amount of EDF current fiscal year, export earnings disbursement. from knitwear goods have seen 72 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Spinning Today How the intelligent Truetzschler Card TC 19i improving quality and productivity of Badsha Textiles Ltd? FT Research Team Badsha Textiles Ltd., a world class yarn manufacturer of grey fabrics and leading textile conglomerate in Bangladesh has a turnover of $258 million. This company has always tried to equip itself with state-of-the-art machinery and technology to produce karded yarn (knitted), slub/ fancy yarn, core yarn, ring denim and open- end yarn which are its main products. In order to continue the legacy of their quality yarn spinning, Badsha Textiles Ltd. chose Truetzschler, a German machinery industry company’s latest development of carding machine- TC 19i. In 2019, they first imported this machine and within this short period of time they have experienced great advantages. To know more about the machine and the experience with it, Textile Today has recently talked with Mr. right benefit. Nep Control is another feature Herbert Mehl, Country Manager to be mentioned. Nep Control One of the exclusive features of (Bangladesh and Vietnam), ensures permanent nep level the new machine is an automatic Truetzschler, also visited Badsha control in carding web and waste collection, which will Textiles Ltd and met Md. Mashiur transfer of monitoring data of minimize the cost of waste Rahman, General Manager to know multiple cards for easier and faster collection and only the right fibers about their carding line. cleaning. will get into the carding machine. Textile Today: Tell us something No good fibers will be lost in Truetzschler has developed about The intelligent Truetzschler the licker-in. Truetzschler Doffer the new MAGNOTOP 3 system Card TC 19i. Suctionhood is designed to catch together with Truetzschler Card the flies on the doffer resulting Clothing. MAGNOTOP 3 eliminates Herbert Mehl: Over the years in reducing 50% yarn cut thus the need for a flats workshop we have developed a great minimizing waste. and prolongs the service life team in Bangladesh to assist by one grinding cycle. Another our customers. We provide One of another wonderful revolutionary include is the customers with wire management, features is Gap Optimizer T-GO automatic fast flat setting system troubleshooting, customer training : Maintaining An optimal and where everything will be done and all the technical supports. precise carding gap even under automatically. The new carding machine changing production conditions. Truetzschler Card TC 19i is an And the Gap Optimizer T-GO For the operator, the most absolutely wonderful machine for process is fully automatic and it important instruments for the spinners as it is unbelievably takes only 10 seconds. controlling the TC 19i are: economical and give them the Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 73 Spinning Today • Multi-touchscreen the knife setting automatically. • LED remote display Thus, fibre loss tendency has been • RFDI sensor for identification decreased. In the doffer side they have developed neps control The operator can read the sensor which is not available in operating status of the machines other carding machines. If any at a glance from the T-LED remote industry doesn’t have USTER or display over large distances. AFIS, they can easily check and guess their output quality. How Textile Today: How is Truetzschler web comes, how much Neps, Card TC 19i improving quality and seed coat, fly are in the web can productivity of your factory? be monitored here. Thus, it can Md. Mashiur Rahman: In the arena produce quality sliver. For their of carding, Truetzschler’s latest development in the doffer side, development- TC 19i is a fantastic the short card has been decreased machine. Those who are doing from 30-50 percent which has a ring spinning with Trutzschler have great impact in the output quality. unparallel production to others Figure: Md. Mashiur Rahman, General Textile Today: How does as it has some striking features. Manager, Badsha Textiles Ltd. Truetzschler support you while The gap between cylinder and facing any difficulties to operate flat is very crucial for maintaining versions where we had to consider their machine? quality. Before using TC 19i, the several factors. Now we don’t gap was optimized manually by need to stop the machine for Md. Mashiur Rahman: They come skilled hands after dismantling the maintaining the quality which and take care of their products machine. But now it is done using helps us to save time and as a routinely. Their product and software efficiently and precisely. result we have reached higher service both are outstanding. productivity. In conventional machines, the Textile Today: What makes TC 19i minimum gap which we could Textile Today: Can you please different from others? get was 3 thou (thousandth of an share the advantages you are inch). Now it is possible to get 1 getting after using Truetzschler Md. Mashiur Rahman: The thou in TC 19i which is a great step card TC 19i? difference between other forward. The advantage of quality machines and Truetzschler are adjustment in a running carding Md. Mashiur Rahman: When the very big in terms of blow room machine was quite unimaginable wastage goes to licker in, many and carding. Truetzschler is before. But in TC 19i it can be good fibre also goes with it. gradually gaining their place in the done effortlessly. In terms of This loss is not always possible factories. productivity, we can increase the to control. But Truetzschler has production per kg without less equipped such a technology which Textile Today: Do you recommend hassle compared to the previous senses the good fibres and plays TC 19i for other spinners in Bangladesh? Md. Mashiur Rahman: Of course. The ones who want to make quality product, Truetzschler Card TC 19i is for them. It’s also recommended for higher production. For instance, our machine line capacity is 1000 kg/ hr, we are running 1200-1300 kg/hr without compromising the quality. Textile Today: Do you have plan to order more TC 19i in recent future? Md. Mashiur Rahman: Yes, after a meeting with our MD, we have already decided to buy 12 more TC 19i in near future. We hope this will benefit us more in terms of quality and production. 74 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Sustainable Fashion 5 clothing brands that are preaching sustainability Kazi Farhan Hossain Purba Sustainability is an indispensable aspect considering all the effects of our fast fashion’s perfunctory movements over the decades. Without even knowing the environmental impacts of fast fashion, the mass people celebrated it and took it gracefully into their lifestyles. But the impacts of it came at a cost; became obvious with evidence of environmental and health degradation backed by plethora of studies and researches. According to Business Insider, the fashion industry emits more carbon than international flights and maritime shipping combined! Figure: Sustainability in the fashion industry is the need of the hour. It produces 10% of all humanity's carbon emissions, is the second- company, has pledged 1% of sales of 1% for the Planet are trying to largest consumer of the world's to the preservation and restoration affect real change. The brand’s water supply, and pollutes the of the natural environment. It tagline is- ‘We are in business to oceans with microplastics. So, the is one of the earliest defenders save our home planet.’ movement for sustainability is now of environmental ethics in the Pact a must to save our only habitation- activewear fashion industry, and the earth. one of the first adopters of using Pact, based in Colorado, USA, recycled materials and switching is pretty obsessed with making Now we will talk about such 5 to organic cotton. This company clothes that make the world clothing brands that have emerged which is mainly celebrated for a better place. The Fair Trade and dedicated themselves to its fair trade outdoor clothing is Certified, organic cotton, B Corp ethical and sustainable practices expanding its commitment to labor goes to great lengths to make sure for a greener world and a better ethics as well by working with Fair their entire supply chain, from the future! Trade Certified factories in India, growing and harvesting of the Patagonia Sri Lanka, and Los Angeles. organic cotton to the final sewing and all the processes in between, Since 1985, Patagonia, a US This company sells women’s are as clean and responsible as and men’s outdoor apparel, possible. swimwear, activewear, etc. Their alliance for business called ‘1% The company is well known for its for the Planet’ focuses on the fair-trade organic cotton basics. necessity of protecting the natural They produce women’s, men’s and environment. By contributing 1% children’s basics and activewear. of total annual sales to grassroots The brand claims that their tees, environmental groups, members dresses, and underwear are 100 76 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Sustainable Fashion affordable ethical clothing line. Alternative Apparel Alternative Apparel, a certified Green Business based in Georgia, USA, is an ethical and sustainable brand. This brand adopts principles, policies and practices that improve the quality of life for their customers, employees, communities, and the planet. It respects and values the rights of workers in all countries and believes in the right to fair and safe workplace conditions. Their factories operate in accordance with the Fair Labor Association Workplace Code of Conduct and they make over 70% of their garments with sustainable materials and processes. They use heavyweight recycled cotton, hemp-blend, OEKO-TEX and GOTS (Global Organic Textile percent cotton. ‘The non-GMO Everlane Standard)-certified organic cotton. cotton is great for you and the For ‘radical transparency’ in This company produces women’s farmers growing it’- they say. The everything from pricing to using and men’s apparel, activewear. company’s motto is- ‘Those who innovative materials, Everlane, an Their tagline is ‘Soft. Simple. (even make are equal to those who American clothing retailer, has more) Sustainable.’ wear’. They also claim that they become a popular choice. This Charlotte West, Director at are building the world’s first guilt- brand spends months hunting for Business in the Community, a free fashion brand. the best ethical factories around responsible business network in Reformation the world. Then they build strong the UK said, “We can genuinely personal relationships with factory Reformation, based in California, make the world a better place by owners to ensure their factory's USA, offers on-trend pieces that practically embedding purpose in integrity and to maintain ethical will still be stylish well after the our brands. And a good, resilient production practices at every step season is over for the sustainable purpose should have sustainability of the process. fashionista. Thus it is promoting at its heart.” The above-mentioned slow fashion. This brand uses They believe customers have the brands are doing it. Not only sustainable fabrics, purchases right to know what their products these, but there also are a lot of carbon offsets and pays living cost to make and where they were other brands which are taking wages. They mostly use TENCEL manufactured. They reveal their sustainability very seriously. ™, X REFIBRA™, Viscose, TENCEL™ true costs and share the factory And day by day, more and more Modal, Linen, Recycled cotton, and production stories behind brands are emerging with a view Organic cotton, etc. fibers. each piece of clothing. They to promoting sustainability for produce women’s apparel, men’s the sake of every party, most Reformation’s activities for apparel, accessories and shoes. importantly for the sake of making sustainable production are They are celebrated for their our world a better place. extensively explained on their website. They also embed a description of each item’s Traceability Performance environmental footprint. Their core We have 100 % traceability into our germent manufacturers focus is on on-trend eco-friendly clothing and their products range We have 100 % traceability into our mills, dyers and printers from women’s apparel, outwear We have 72 % traceability into our raw material processors to bridal clothing. Their bold and unabashed tagline is- ‘Being naked We have 56 % traceability into our raw material producers is the number one most sustainable We have 5% traceability into our farms and forests option, we are number two.’ Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 77 March 2020 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 13, Issue 03 l Pages 79 to 89 Latest innovations in Digital Printing Textile dyestuff market to reach around US$ 8 bn by 2026 Direct sublimation printing- the advanced printing in terms of quality and sustainability March 2020 PT Printing Today Latest innovations in Digital Printing Sayed Abdullah Digital textile printing is described as any ink jet based method of printing colorants onto fabric. The fashion industry is one of the markets benefiting from advances in inkjet printing on textiles. Since its inception in ITMA 1991, textile inkjet printers were an innovative coloration process marketed for sampling and high-end short runs because of the low production speed of 10 meters per hour (m/h). Figure: Inkjet printing is driving digital technology as manufacturers are looking for ways to bring products to market faster to quickly respond to consumer demand. After 30 years of this technology, textile inkjet printers reached Scan-type printers function by the large square footage. speeds of 90 meters per minute moving the printhead carriage Five single-pass printers were (m/min), making this technology back and forth across the displayed at ITMA 2019. Currently, now exceedingly competitive with substrate. Although significantly numerous single-pass printers are rotary screen printing. faster than previous once, the installed globally. With speeds equaling and, in some upper limit of scan-type printers cases, surpassing rotary printers, is typically about 300 m/h, except Italy-based EFI Reggiani — a textile inkjet printing have a for the Mini Lario — manufactured division of Electronics for Imaging competitive advantage because it by Italy-based MS Printing (EFI) Inc., Fremont, Calif. — eradicates the screen preparation Solutions S.r.l. — which can print introduced the newest single pass process and offers the capability up to 600 m/h. printer, the 1.8-meter-wide Reggiani BOLT, which can achieve print to clasp print information in a Single-pass printers print at higher speeds of 90 m/min at a 600 x 600 digital format up till production. speeds because the print head dots per inch (dpi) resolution. By eradicating the screen and jetting system is arranged such that the the colorant, inkjet printing allows for fabric is fed under a fixed print The printhead has capability of more suppleness in the print repeat unit and the fabric moves under variable drop sizes ranging from 5 size, enables an increase in the the print bars at a constant speed to 30 picolitres (pL). An innovative, number of colors without increasing building up the print image across optional, feature of the Bolt printer cost, provides the capability for finer the full width of the substrate by is that one or more integrated line detail, and reduces water and one stroke or pass of vertical image. analog printing stations can be included to be used for special energy consumption. In single-pass printing, each effects such as a metallic pigment printhead station jets one color Inkjet printing is driving digital or as a pre-treatment device. technology as manufacturers are of cyan, magenta, yellow, or black looking for ways to bring products (CMYK) with the ability to add up The four others single- pass printers to market faster to quickly to four additional stations of colors are MS Printing Solutions’ Lario, respond to consumer demand. such as blue, green, violet, grey, Japan-based Konica Minolta’s red, or orange. Nassenger SP-1, the Netherlands- Latest digital printers’ varieties based SPGPrints’ Pike, and China- The footprint of single-pass printers Faster inkjet printer is credited to based Atexco’s Vega One. is considerably larger than scanning changes in the configuration of the mode printers, though the speed of The Lario has production print speeds printhead system, which allowed single-pass printers often validates of 75 m/min for textile substrates — an increase in nozzles. enabling 20,000 to 80,000 meters Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 81 Printing Today Digital Printing per day of printed fabric — and 120 m/min for paper printing. Single-pass At ITMA, MS showed an innovative in-line pre-treatment method for printers reactive inks that consisted of laying Pike by SPGPrints a foam onto the belt under the fabric and then adding pressure to the top of the fabric to force penetration of the pretreatment. Konica Minolta’s Nassenger SP-1 has a total of 1,024 channel heads Nassenger SP-1 Reggiani BOLT Vega One with independent-drive, and by Konica Minolta by EFI Reggiani by Atexco variable drop sizes from 6-30 pL. The company developed its 1200 x 1200 dpi. Single pass printers offer swiftness printhead which allows flexibility and prices that are competitive in the ink adjustment so that dark The Pike can be configured with with rotary screen printing. and light colors may be combined six to nine printing stations, and Though the scan-type printers during the printing process. The each print station has a dedicated are still the predominant type printer can be configured for up to Archer print bar containing 43 of textile inkjet printer because nine colors with the capability to print heads with variable drop the lower cost allows printing use reactive, disperse or acid dyes. sizes from 2-10 pL and a jetting service providers to install more frequency of 32 kilohertz (kHz). The Nassenger SP-1 prints high printers, with the flexibility of definition prints with fairly good Austria-based Zimmer Austria Inc. varying colorant type or printer ink penetration from the face to showcased its pigment printing manufacturer within their factories. back of the fabric. Another notable capability with the COLARIS 96- Scan-type printers are also capability of this printer is an 3400 — a 3.4-meter-wide digital suitable for companies starting automatic printhead cleaning and inkjet printer that can be outfitted up an inkjet printing division empty nozzle detection system with up to 96 printheads. who don’t want a large capital to maintain stable production and This flagship printer is suitable investment before learning how reduced down time. for textile applications and allows to optimally implement the new SPG Prints’ Pike printer has printing a capacity beyond 1,000 square technology into their existing speeds of 40 to 90 m/h depending on meters per hour (m2/h). Zimmer manufacturing process. the desired print quality. The Pike uses demonstrated an inline drying And of course, the lower cost of Samba printheads from Santa Clara, system with a small footprint that these printers still meets the needs Calif.-based Fujifilm Dimatix Inc. that uses a unique infrared technology of sampling, prototyping and incorporate a recirculating ink channel in combination with a vacuum specialty print markets. system that prevents ink clogging. suction system to cure the pigment. Research and development Also, the printhead maintains HP introduced the Stitch series continue in machine technologies thermal stability for the duration of printers with native 1,200 dpi such as fabric handling, printhead of the print run. This robust design printhead resolution for vivid capability and robustness, quality enables SPG to provide 18 months colors and deep blacks. This low control mechanisms for nozzle failure of warranty on the printheads. maintenance printer can print and fabric wrinkle detector systems; unattended at production speeds A unique feature of the Pike is that and chemistry developments in of up to 220 m2/h. it uses the Archer® technology, colorant and pre-treatment. whereby the head print plates can be The vast majority of textile For successful implementation of positioned 3 to 6 millimeters (mm) ink printers on the market use this technology still needed is an away from the substrate, which greatly piezoelectric printheads. Generally, optimization of the printing supply reduces the risk of a head strike. thermal printheads are less chain for a process, water, energy, expensive, but in the past, there Typically, printheads are and price reduction. were compatibility issues with positioned 2 to 3 mm above the some types of colorant. substrate, which poses a risk to the printhead if the fabric is wrinkled. Archer technology can accurately Scan-type jet across a much greater distance than other printheads while still COLARIS by printers MP by KERAtex Stitch by HP achieving a native resolution of Zimmer 82 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Ready to use dark ground paste for pigment printing OUROUROUR CREATIONCREATIONCREATION ISISIS YOURYOURYOUR DESIRE...DESIRE...DESIRE... IS YOUR DESIRE... Sister concern Corporate office: Garib-E-Newaz Avenue, House# 03 Naheyan (4th & 5th Floor) Sector# 11, Uttara, Dhaka-1230. : +880248952957 : [email protected] Chattogram office: Certified by: T. K Square House# 22, Mirzapool, Shulok Bahar, Panchlaish, Chattogram-4203. Factory: Compliance with: 360-361, Bashaid, Ashulia Savar, Dhaka-1341. www.colorstylebd.com Advanced Printing Direct sublimation printing- advanced printing in terms of quality and sustainability Jos Notermans, Manager, Digital Textiles, SPGPrints Awareness around the importance sublimation printing is an answer to methods. In terms of sustainability, of sustainability is growing rapidly this new, but pressing demand. paper sublimation printing is a in a lot of industries. The textile more environmentally friendly industry included. Sustainability is Disperse and sublimation printing printing solution for polyester all about meeting society’s present A commonly used method to fabrics, because it does not need needs, without compromising the print on polyester textile fabrics steaming and washing, a simple ability of future generations to is direct disperse printing. This calendaring step is all. This makes meet their own. In other words: printing process involves pre- sublimation printing a better we want to preserve our planet, treating the fabric with chemicals choice, although this printing without having to compromise on and it is using a steaming process method still requires the use of quality. Solar panels and electric to bond the ink to the fabric. After sublimation paper. cars are excellent examples of that, a washing step is needed to sustainable solutions. But also, wash off the non-bonded inks. The design is being printed in the textile industry, new, more Direct disperse printing is known on paper first (in mirror) in a sustainable solutions are on the rise. for its high fastnesses and good sublimation printer. The paper is through print quality but requires then fed into a calendar together In the past, sustainability was a steaming and washing process, with the fabric. The calendar uses in practice always linked to which uses a lot of energy and heat and high pressure to transfer the price of it, and expensive water. This makes this type of the ink to the fabric. Heat and sustainable solutions were printing less sustainable. pressure cause the ink to transition often not implemented. Now the directly from its solid state into gas, environment is more on top of mind, Printing companies looking for a which is called sublimation. Hence the market demands higher levels of way to increase sustainability in the name “sublimation printing”. sustainability for future generations. their production process should, In the textile industry, direct therefore, evaluate other printing Paper sublimation printing has a few downsides besides the necessity of using paper. This specific printing method does not deliver the same levels of print and fastnesses as direct disperse printing. With sublimation printing, the ink will only stick to one side of the fiber, meaning the print will only be visible on one side of the fabric. A more sustainable solution Recently, a more sustainable form of sublimation printing has gained in popularity: direct sublimation printing. Direct sublimation printing combines the sustainability advantages of sublimation printing with the better-quality features of direct disperse printing. 84 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Advanced Printing With direct sublimation printing, printer a more sophisticated sticky direct disperse printing has always similar low-energy sublimation belt is needed, as in all direct-to- been the only solution to print inks are printed directly onto the fabric digital printers. sportswear on polyester fabrics. polyester fabric. That fabric then goes directly into the calendar for This belt solution makes the But recently sports brands like the sublimation process, without printers more expensive and, Nike, Puma and Adidas have the use of paper. therefore, eminently are more noticed that their sportswear is suitable for bigger volumes of increasingly being used as fashion As the use of paper is being fabrics. For this specific reason, items, rather than their intended eliminated from the printing direct sublimation printing is purpose as sportswear. That allows process, the process is more mainly profitable for larger printing these brands to slightly concede environmentally friendly. Besides, companies and industrial applications. on wash fastnesses, to increase the direct sublimation printing ensures When printing larger volumes, the sustainability of their clothing. that the ink can penetrate the fiber savings on paper costs outweigh the in a better way. This significantly higher costs of equipment. Direct sublimation is embraced improves both the penetration into by the big sports brands and the fabric as well as the fastnesses Sustainable sportswear washing requirements are of the fabric, although the results slightly lowered to produce more One type of brand, in particular, of direct disperse printing on these sustainable clothing. This makes is seeing the value of direct topics are still superior. sportswear a wonderful example sublimation printing and the of the increased awareness around Besides the numerous advantages positive impact it has on sustainability in the textile printing of direct sublimation printing, this sustainability: sports brands. industry. Hopefully, many more specific printing method requiresa Sportswear is mainly made of brands will follow their example so significant initial investment. Because polyester and is often washed more together we can create a better the fabric has to move through the frequently, which means it requires future for the next generation. excellent fastnesses. Therefore, Norsel Textilmaschinen AG NORSEL AG, Switzerland Reduce the number of human error caused of hand writing on grey fabric. Saving fabric wastage by decreasing of marking size. No more re-working because of lost information on the fabrics. No mix up of fabric roll and easy sorting. www.norsel.com Full control of fabric inventory. Track and trace fabric roll through all textile process. BD hotline: +8801760385555 Textile Icon Value-added products are need of the hour BTT Interview Silver Line Group is the largest conglomerate in the textile and apparel sector in Bangladesh. The Spinning unit of Silver Line Group began operations in 2004. Since its inception, it has been successful in its production and delivery of high quality 100% cotton yarns. The company has also been successful in the export oriented knit fabrics and apparel units. In 2013, the company was able to leap forward by vertically integrating into fabric Figure 1: Samit Hassan (Left), Director of Silver Line Group with Deputy Managing and garment manufacturing. Director Mehdi Hassan. By doing this, the company has to other workers as it can give me a something that you believe in, you managed to become a world leader comprehensive picture. are not good enough. in the business of manufacturing Textile Today: How do you see the Textile Today: How do you see high-quality garments. To shade importance of R&D in the textile sector? the second generation who are more light into his ambitions and involved in this industry? goals, recently Samit Hassan, Samit Hassan: Research and Director of Silver Line Group, Development (R&D) is key to the Samit Hassan: There might be shared his views to Textile Today. development of any company. some difference in the mind-set Without R&D, the textile and among different generations, but Textile Today: How did you apparel industry cannot progress the era has also been changed. prepare yourself for the textile or grow at a good pace. If the The challenges we face today and RMG sector? textile sector fails to undertake are multi-pronged, global, and Samit Hassan: My dad was the R&D and product development, competitive that have intensified owner of a textile company. He then it may fail to offer and come many folds. We are learning used to send me to the factory up with new products and ideas and willing to learn to deal with and help out in a few things so in the market. With research and different challenges. We are willing that I can gain experience and development, the textile will be to hear things first and then make learn from the grass-root when I able to avoid any new surprises a holistic decision. There is a was the age of 17. Slowly I learned that may be presented with stigma that MD's son has abruptly to deal with machines and interact different sectors. become the director. with other workers. That is how I I am always looking for what But it is not so easy. If a leader was able to gain experience and the end consumers want, what fails to do the groundwork first, managed to become a leader who difference we can offer to the the workers will not follow him. can run the show. fashion market. Because if you Working with your team to solve I normally go to the factory to cannot satisfy your market or the issues is the ultimate goal. Top- oversee things and have meetings customers, then you cannot sell level management needs to talk to in the conference room. Whenever your products. Everyone will not the people who are working from we have a staff meeting or wear the 40*40 cotton poplin ground zero to learn from them. This brainstorming on a particular niche, forever. You need to create value- humble mindset will be an additional I encourage everyone to participate. added products. strength rather than a threat. Every idea, suggestion or opinion How long will you sell the basic Textile Today: What is your plan is essential, that is why I encourage things and move along? If you for the next five years with the everyone present in the meeting to are not willing to take the risk of Silver Line group? share their views. I also like to listen stepping out and trying to invest in 86 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 textile and apparel industry? Samit Hassan: Currently, it is a danger, but the Coronavirus will not stay for long. Bangladesh textile is becoming big, as China is shutting down its textile factories. China wants to go to the tech industries. Orders are moving to Bangladesh; however, there are Figure 2: Samit Hassan along with Silver Line team. lots of challenges as the global apparel market is also shrinking Samit Hassan: We will soon go for Textile Today: As you have a vertical due to the Coronavirus. But we a washing plant on a huge scale. set-up, what are your challenges? have to work together to tackle We are expanding our garments Samit Hassan: Now the buyers this global human health challenge. into bottom categories. Now we want vertical set-up along with Textile Today: How are buyers only produce tops and zippers/ having our design studio. That changing in the textile and slippers; still, we do not produce is where I see we can prove apparel industry? bottom categories. But our line is ourselves compared to other getting expanded. In a couple of apparel manufacturing nations. Samit Hassan: Recently, we have months, it will be up and running. When I think about challenges, experienced a surge in the number We will also try to get into the I keep on asking myself what is of buyers that want us to mass- market of jackets like light wear, next. What will the next fashion produce their orders. Besides, the medium-heavy jackets, etc. trend be? Will the old 90's things clients are now requesting that we come in the future? bring them designs so that they Our current production is can remain trendy and fashionable. 1,200,000 per day. Within the next We at Silver Line left no stone For this reason, my company has five years, we will increase about unturned. From silk to hemp to multitask, which is something a hundred more looms. Our new fibers, we are always up for the we had not expected in the spinning is coming up for high- challenges. To run hemp fiber in Bangladeshi textile industry. quality yarn like the 40s, 50s, 60s, a regular production line is nearly 80s, 120 double, 120 single, etc. impossible. But we are the first Textile Today: How did you company to develop hemp in receive this demand, and how did Also, we are adding ten to twenty a factory like that. We are also you manage to address it? thousand more spindles. In total, diversified our product basket. we will have around 50,000 Samit Hassan: We are always Cause at the end of the day, spindles, and we are making it fully up to the task, and I am always making value-added products is automated. So, the manpower will optimistic about any challenge or the need of the hour. be less. We are renovating the whole issue; therefore, I did not panic. spinning mill, and we are making it Textile Today: You are a Such greed makes me crave more completely new. So, the structure young entrepreneur. What is for knowledge. Such demands from will be there. But all the machinery your suggestion for the new the customers push me to bring from blow room to finishing will be a entrepreneurs who want to come better designs and also allows me to hundred percent automated. to the industry? push them so that together we can push the trends to the people. We have expanded our yarn Samit Hassan: I will say to the dyeing sector. We have added young generation that we have to Also, I have learned from my other 18-color regions and learn to be humble and work from marketing team is to never say digital rotary printing. We have ground zero to learn to deal and take “No”, because once you say also added a new center in the on challenges. Building relationships “No”, you are transferring your finishing. We also added one with employees/workers is essential. negativity to your buyers and you more yarn dyeing machine in the In this regard, entrepreneurs need to end all possibility of a deal. weaving preparatory stage. We listen to people. Textile Today: What are your last have five warping machines, of You have to be a friend to your words? them, four are from Karl Mayer. people. The person who wants to Samit Hassan: I would like to tell In our company, we are using a cope with this business, they have the young people who are aspiring hundred percent branded machine to take things seriously, they have to become a businessmen to not to compromise with the quality. to respect their people, no matter not fear the failure. As Winston who they are. You cannot compare our Churchill said, “Success is not final; finishing with any finishing floor Textile Today: How do you see the failure is not fatal: it is the courage in Bangladesh and that I can impact of Coronavirus in the Bangladesh to continue that counts.” guarantee you. 88 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Printing Today Customized 3D printing shoes by Vivobarefoot Desk Report Sustainable shoemaker which will result in the company Vivobarefoot planning to launch re-purposing end-of-line shoes 3D printing shoes in 2020, and selling them on a dedicated allowing its clients to get more website at a reduced cost. personalized and customized footwear. Walker also revealed the business is keen to move towards becoming The UK-based business is taking a £90 million operation over an innovative approach in product the next three years, supported development that fits into a range primarily by organic growth and of new services and platforms in Walker maintained that further international expansion, the pipeline. Vivobarefoot’s shoes fit people’s rather than via outside investment. feet “much closer than most other Vivobarefoot’s Chief Commercial shoes” The company says, that Officer, Paul Walker said, “We’re conventional shoes hurt the looking at 3D scanning people’s He noted, “The reality is we are movement of feet. And often feet and 3D printing shoes, which still selling full-size shoes despite demand and production processes addresses a few issues.” most people having one foot that hurt the environment too. slightly differently sized to another Sustainable design has to be fit for “We potentially could have 3D – 3D printing would help address purpose and fit for the planet. printers in major cities around this discrepancy.” the world, and wherever you live Vivobarefoot use natural, recycled you could send the order to that The 3D printing fits into three key and bio-based materials to facility. Also, within a couple of project areas for 2020 – the others create highly durable barefoot days you could have a personal 3D being the re-platforming of its shoes. Barefoot shoe making is printed shoe,” Walker added. website, planned for June, and the sustainable shoemaking for men, unveiling of a ‘ReVivo’ initiative, women and kids. Bando Design champion of BGMEA cup 2020 Rakibul Islam Bando Design Limited clinched the title of the 5th edition BGMEA Cup football tournament-2020 beating Laila Styles Limited by 4-0 goals in the final match at Bangladesh Army Stadium on 28 February. Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi, MP handed over the champion and runner up trophies while DNCC Mayor Md. Atiqul Islam, BGMEA Vice Presidents and Directors, Figure: Bando Design Limited clinched the title of the 5th edition BGMEA Cup football former BGMEA Presidents were tournament-2020. also present on the occasion. Hope School Bangladesh’s Innovative Fashions, Mehnaz Styles Imran of Bando was awarded man AstroTurf playground in Uttara. and Crafts, Onus Group, Sterling of the match while Shakil of Bando Group, Apparels Village and awarded the best player of the The participating teams included Tusuka Group. tournament. Epyllion Group, Bando Design, Comfit Composite, Torque The event was organized by BGMEA has been organizing the Fashions, Laila Styles by Laila BGMEA and sponsored by BUFT, football tournament since 2016. Group, Fortis Group, Apparel SAILOR, DBL Ceramics, TUSUKA This year, a total of 16 teams Industry, Aspire Garments, Musk and Ananta. Nagorik TV was the divided into four groups took part Trousers, Ali Garments, Self- broadcast partner with IHSB being in the event held at International the venue partner. Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 89 Sustainable Chemical Asutex seminar ‘One step forward, towards a sustainable future’ held Staff Correspondent APLICACIÓN Y SUMINISTROS to be present with head office in highlighted the merging of Asutex TEXTILES SA (Asutex) – a company 8 countries and 3 continents: Italy, with Bozzetto Group. of Bozzetto Group – organized a Germany, Spain, Poland, Turkey, Ramón Navarro said, “Asutex seminar ‘One step forward, towards China, Indonesia, United States. development of products and a sustainable future’ on 28 February In the program Enrico Nunziata, applications are made according at a hotel in Dhaka. honorable ambassador of Italy; to the sustainable processing The seminar highlighted the recent Prof. MA Kashem, VC, BUTEX was and brands demand. Along with joining of Asutex with Bozzetto Chief Guest; Mohammad Mosharraf Bozzetto Group has more than Group on 10 January 2020. Hossain - Chairman and Managing 100 years of global experience. An Director of Mosharaf Group, Ramón international specialty chemical Founded in 1987 and based Navarro, Managing Director of entity with a deep know-how in in Barcelona (Spain), Asutex Asutex; Shafiqur Rahman, President formulation application product is a renowned manufacturer ITET, the Asuchem team along with performance.” of chemical products with various global brands, garment applications in various textile With a total volume of 160000 factories, customers, buying house industries. The company has tons of production, headquartered representatives were present. grown internationally, reaching in Italy Bozzetto has production more than € 45 MIO (US$50.15 Asuchem limited, Bangladesh facilities in the USA, Columbia, million) revenues in 2019 in agent of ASUTEX organized Germany, Italy, Spain, Poland, Europe, Asia and Latin America. the event. Mohammad Anis-Ur Turkey, China, Morocco, Malaysia Rahman, Country Manager of and Indonesia, Navarro said. Established in Italy in 1919, with Asutex gave the welcome speech. more than 100 years of global Stefano Putzu and Xavier Jordana experience Bozzetto Group has Prof. MA Kashem highlighted the presented the ‘Greennovative constantly grown up in knowledge, importance of the strong RMG Solutions’ product ranges by experience, and vision, towards the industry in Bangladesh, as this Asutex. Where new innovative dynamic global specialty chemical industry brings 80% of export. product ranges like greennovative company. denim washing, eco-bleach Shafiqur Rahman stressed process for black denim, Bozzetto has a well-established providing sustainable chemical greennovative garment dyeing, network of partners and products at a reasonable price. pigmentary dyeing system, water- collaborators enable it to Ramón Navarro in his speech free system, and Asufix DEL displayed. distribute all over the world and 90 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Women Entrepreneurship Women are now treated equally like men as per their competency Sumaiya Rozalin Islam, Director, Jamuna Group Women are struggling to get proper rights from last two centuries. We see International Women’s Day has been observed to celebrate the progress made towards achieving gender equality and women’s empowerment worldwide on March 8 every year since February 28, 1909. Women in Bangladesh and worldwide are being empowered significantly, though women oppression is also increasing drastically. Bangladesh Textile and apparel industry, mainly driven by women, is playing an important role to make women economically empowered. One of the country’s apex trade bodies BGMEA, a platform of 4.0 million workers and staffs, of which almost 80 % are women, has women representatives have any women members on the women entrepreneurship, women on its current board. However, board. Women representative employment, their problems and the Dhaka Chamber of should be present in each area. ways to overcome. Commerce and Industry (DCCI) Recently in a conversation Textile Today: Why have you made and Bangladesh Knitwear with Bangladesh Textile Today your career in RMG sector? What Manufacturers and Exporters was your inspiration behind this? Sumaiya Rozalin Islam, Director Association (BKMEA) also do not of Jamuna Group talked about Sumaiya Rozalin Islam: I want 92 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Women Entrepreneurship to mention that my education Sumaiya Rozalin Islam: You background is information know that currently many of our technology. I did my B.Sc & low quality factories are being M.Sc from Australia and came closed. Buyers are now focusing back to Bangladesh in 2007. My largely on sustainable, compliance, father was engaged in managing wage structure, worker-friendly several businesses in RMG environment issues. I can’t sector. Our Jamuna Group is a say anything about the lower reknown company since 1992. quality factories, but in first class His activities inspired me and he factories, it is not possible to give also encouraged me to look after lower salary to women because the business. So, I would like say of these buyers’ policies. Women my father was my inspiration in are given proper respect to their choosing this career. service and a lot of extra facilities. Textile Today: What are the Textile Today: What are the barriers do you think that women challenges you are currently have to face in RMG sector? And facing in business? How can you how can they overcome these? overcome them? Sumaiya Rozalin Islam: With Sumaiya Rozalin Islam: There are the pace of time, the mindsets a lot of problem-I must say. The of the people of our country major problem is price. Buyers are have changed a lot. Women are always coming up with new and now treated equally with men updated requirements with every according to their capability. That’s order. But on the contrary they are why we can see the participation refusing to increase their price. In of women growing in all sectors, this situation, what we can mainly not only RMG. Now families do is to increase our efficiency. We understand that an women can should make sure that our workers be an asset to their family. But are capable of handling multiple there are still some families which machines like Chinese workers. We don’t support the participation are also lagging behind because of of women in job sector because the lack of quality raw materials i.e. of their conventional thinking. In cotton etc. those case, women need to make Another big obstacle is our port proper communication with their congestion. Government should family and never step back in case come forward to solve these port of flourishing in their career. related problems, which will be Textile Today: What extra facilities huge beneficial for us. do you have for women in your Textile Today: Any special factory? advice for the upcoming women Sumaiya Rozalin Islam: In our entrepreneurs? factory, we treat men and women Sumaiya Rozalin Islam: Women as equal based on their capability. need to change their mindset In fact, the number of female first. Almost all of our women workers are more in our factory. are now educated. They must Because women are comparatively know about the scopes of RMG calm, focused and productive. sector and prepare themselves They simply focus on production accordingly. There are also many and usually don’t take part in idols, whom they can follow for unrests. example Rubana Huq mam, our Textile Today: According to a ambassador for RMG sector of research by Japanese External Bangladesh. All women should be Trade Organisation, women inspired from persons like her and workers get comparatively lower make their significant contribution salary in Bangladesh. How do you in RMG sector. So that we can see this? move forward as a whole. Market Analysis Textile dyestuff market to reach around US$8 bn by 2026 The demand within the global textile dyestuff market is rising at the back of advancements in the clothing industry. The need for dyeing garments and apparels is amongst the leading drivers of market demand. Furthermore, textile dyeing holds tremendous significance for the chemical industry as it helps in analysis of dye properties. Textile manufacturers are required to cater to the needs of a heterogeneous mix of consumers. This factor, coupled with the availability of improved dyeing technologies, has played a vital role in market growth. The problem of sustainability and waste management is a matter narrowed down, and this is a the attention of consumers of concern within the textile positive sign for the market players. in recent times. Furthermore, concerns related to the industry. The growing contribution Transparency Market Research biodegradability of textile dyestuff of textile manufacturers to water (TMR) finds that the global textile has also led to increased adoption pollution has been questioned dyestuff market would expand at of plant-based materials. by environmentalists. This factor a moderate CAGR of 5% over the could hamper the growth of the period between 2018 and 2026. Buffy, a New York-based bedding global textile dyestuff market in company has launched natural Furthermore, the total value of the years to follow. dyes made out of plants. The the global textile dyestuff market company used fruits and spices However, research conducted at stood at US$ 5 bn in 2017, and this to color the bedsheets. This Texas Tech University offers hope figure to expected to increase. development is expected to drive for market vendors. Researchers The growth of the global textile demand within the global textile from the university have developed dyestuff market largely relies on dyestuff market. a method to separate toxic dyes advancements in the clothing and from wastewater. Hence, the global apparel industry. Efficiency of textile manufacturers textile dyestuff market is expected in waste management Popularity of plant-based dyes to to earn sustainable revenues at the drive market demand The global textile dyestuff market back of improvements in waste is slated to ride along a lucrative management technologies. The demand for designer clothing growth path. Textile manufacturers is on a rise in recent times. Fashion Chemical engineering has have made earnest efforts to improve trends dominate the lifestyles of transcended as a lucrative area their waste management procedures. people, and this factor has closely of growth for regional territories. This factor is expected to generate impacted the growth of the global The importance of textile dyeing huge-scale revenues within the global textile dyestuff market. in this sector has generated textile dyestuff market. fresh revenues within the market. Furthermore, as textile Moreover, the need for dye testing Furthermore, university graduates manufacturers embrace green has also created a large playfield and research scholars have shown manufacturing procedures, of opportunities for market vendors. tremendous interest in the field of investors have shown more textile manufacturing and dyeing. confidence in the textile dyestuff Some of the leading vendors in the This factor has also played to the industry. Henceforth, the global global textile dyestuff market are advantage of the vendors operating textile dyestuff market is projected BASF SE, Archroma International, in the global textile dyestuff market. to grow at a stellar pace in the Huntsman International LLC., years to follow. Bozzetto Group, Lanxess AG, and Dearth of trained engineers across Dystar Group. textile manufacturing units has Plant-based textiles have captured 94 Bangladesh Textile Today | Volume 13, Issue 03 Welcome on Board! New Textile Today Corporate Members Textile Today congratulates and wlecomes it's newly joined Corporate Members. Corporate Members get Textile Today services in privileged scheme. All key services namely Textile Today Magazine, Website, Textile Today Training, Textile Today Events, Textile Today Jobs and Textile Today Classifieds everything have been brought into one package under the Corporate Membership Schemes. More details: https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/corporate-members Premium Corporate Member SM Sourcing SM Sourcing: Established in 2013 [email protected] Location: Plots 58, Block# D Baimail, Kona Bari, Gazipur,www.smsourcing.biz Bangladesh Production capacity: All types of Knit garments- 15,00,000 pcs / month, Total Jersey production lines- 20 Production Range: Knitwear – T-shirt, Polo shirt, PJ set, ladies dress, leggings, jogger, fleece hoody, nightwear, maternity items, sweatshirt, baby romper, baby suit Total Employee: 1500 Mirza Shams Mahmud Exporting Countries: USA, Japan, Europe. Proprietor & CEO Major compliance certifications: BSCI, SMETA, GOTS, OEKOTEX, SM Sourcing Head Office: House#3/1 (3rd Floor), Road#8, Dhanmondi, Dhaka-1205, Bangladesh. Email: [email protected], [email protected] Phone: +88-0177753044, +88-01847337222 Shangu Tex Limited: Established in 2001 Location Shangu Tex unit 1: Shomobai complex (1st & 2nd floor) Station Road, Tongi, Gazipur, Bangladesh Location Shangu Tex unit 2: Dosaid, Ashulia, Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh Production capacity: All types of Woven garments- 950,000 pcs / month, Total production lines- 28. All types of Swimwear garments- 35,000/ month Production Range: Woven tops, ladies/Men’s Shirts, Kids Item, Active and Swimwear. Total Employee: 3000 Maheer Mannan Muji, Pierre Cardin, Atlas, Bel&Bo, Right-on, Stripe, NewYorker, Volcom, Deputy Managing Director Major Customers: Shangu Tex Ltd. Vertbaudet, Pepco, Coleman, LPP. Swimwear Customers: HotTopic, MidNight Hour, Lane Bryant. Major compliance certifications: BSCI, WCA, ACCORD, ICS, WRAP, BETTERWORK, SQP, WALMART, GSV, ISO. Head Office: Dosaid, Ashulia, Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh Email: [email protected] Phone: +880 1612 344 222, +880 1728 591 692, +88-02-9804306-8. Fax: +88-02-9804268 Web: www.shangutex.com Not just the biggest industry platform ...transforming into an Innovation Hub! 100 'Transformation Teams' having 1 Industry Expert, 1 Industry Supervisor, 1 Academic Researcher and 1 Young Transformation Leader in each team will be deployed in 2020 to set 'Transformation Blueprint' for Textile and Apparel industry in this critical juncture. Become 'Transformation Partner' to contribute in the biggest ever effort to design the next decade Textile and Apparel industry. season 2019-20 : +88 01734 211085 Profitable & Eective Organization through People Leadership & Excellence : [email protected]